Effect of Supplemented and Topically Applied Antioxidant Substances on Human Tissue

Lycopene, but not zeaxanthin, serves as a skeleton for the formation of an orthorhombic organization of intercellular lipids within the lamellae in the stratum corneum: Molecular dynamics simulations of the hydrated ceramide NS bilayer model

Carotenoids play an important role in the protection of biomembranes against oxidative damage. Their function depends on the surroundings and the organization of the lipid membrane they are embedded in. Carotenoids are located parallel or perpendicular to the surface of the lipid bilayer. The influence of carotenoids on the organization of the lipid bilayer in the stratum corneum has not been thoroughly considered. Here, the orientation of the exemplary cutaneous carotenoids lycopene and zeaxanthin in a hydrated ceramide NS24 bilayer model and the influence of carotenoids on the lateral organization of the lipid bilayer model were studied by means of molecular dynamics simulations for 32 °C and 37 °C. The results confirm that lycopene is located parallel and zeaxanthin perpendicular to the surface of the lipid bilayer. The lycopene-loaded lipid bilayer appeared to have a strong orthorhombic organization, while zeaxanthin-loaded and pure lipid bilayers were organized in a disordered hexagonal-like and liquid-like state, respectively. The effect is stronger at 32 °C compared to 37 °C based on p-values. Therefore, it was assumed that carotenoids without hydroxyl polar groups in their structure facilitate the formation of the orthorhombic organization of lipids, which provides the skin barrier function. It was shown that the distance between carotenoid atoms matched the distance between atoms in the lipids, indicating that parallel located carotenoids without hydroxyl groups serve as a skeleton for lipid membranes inside the lamellae. The obtained results provide reasonable prediction of the overall qualitative properties of lipid model systems and show the importance of parallel-oriented carotenoids in the development and maintenance of the skin barrier function.

Carotenoids in Human SkinIn Vivo: Antioxidant and Photo-Protectant Role against External and Internal Stressors

The antioxidant system of the human body plays a crucial role in maintaining redox homeostasis and has an important protective function. Carotenoids have pronounced antioxidant properties in the neutralization of free radicals. In human skin, carotenoids have a high concentration in the stratum corneum (SC)-the horny outermost layer of the epidermis, where they accumulate within lipid lamellae. Resonance Raman spectroscopy and diffuse reflectance spectroscopy are optical methods that are used to non-invasively determine the carotenoid concentration in the human SC in vivo. It was shown by electron paramagnetic resonance spectroscopy that carotenoids support the entire antioxidant status of the human SC in vivo by neutralizing free radicals and thus, counteracting the development of oxidative stress. This review is devoted to assembling the kinetics of the carotenoids in the human SC in vivo using non-invasive optical and spectroscopic methods. Factors contributing to the changes of the carotenoid concentration in the human SC and their influence on the antioxidant status of the SC in vivo are summarized. The effect of chemotherapy on the carotenoid concentration of the SC in cancer patients is presented. A potential antioxidant-based pathomechanism of chemotherapy-induced hand-foot syndrome and a method to reduce its frequency and severity are discussed.

Recent Advances Regarding the Phytochemical and Therapeutic Uses of Populus nigra L. Buds

Populus nigra L. (Salicaceae family) is one of the most popular trees that can be found in deciduous forests. Some particularities that characterize the Populus genus refer to the fact that it includes more than 40 species, being widespread especially in Europe and Asia. Many residues, parts of this tree can be used as a bioresource for different extracts as active ingredients in pharmaceuticals next to multiple benefits in many areas of medicine. The present review discusses the latest findings regarding the phytochemical composition and the therapeutic properties of Populus nigra L. buds. The vegetal product has been described mainly to contain phenolic compounds (phenols, phenolic acids and phenylpropanoids), terpenoids (mono and sesquiterpenoids), flavones (e.g., apigenol and crysin), flavanones (e.g., pinocembrin and pinostrombin), caffeic/ferulic acids and their derivates, and more than 48 phytocompounds in the essential oils. The resinous exudates present on the buds have been the major plant source used by bees to form propolis. Several studies depicted its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, antifungal, antidiabetic, antitumor, hepatoprotective, hypouricemic properties and its effects on melanin production. All these lead to the conclusion that black poplar buds are a valuable and important source of bioactive compounds responsible for a wide range of therapeutic uses, being a promising candidate as a complementary and/or alternative source for a large number of health problems. The aim of the review is to gather the existing information and to bring an up to date regarding the phytochemical and therapeutic uses of Populus nigra L. buds.

Do We Utilize Our Knowledge of the Skin Protective Effects of Carotenoids Enough?

Due to their potential health-promoting effects, carotenoids have drawn both scientific and public attention in recent years. The primary source of carotenoids in the human skin is diet, mainly fruits, vegetables, and marine product, but they may originate from supplementation and topical application, too. In the skin, they accumulate mostly in the epidermis and act as a protective barrier to various environmental influences. Namely, the skin is exposed to numerous environmental factors, including ultraviolet radiation (UVR), air pollution, and smoking, that cause oxidative stress within the skin with consequent premature (extrinsic) aging. UVR, as the most prominent environmental factor, may cause additional detrimental skin effects, such as sunburn, DNA damage, and skin cancer. Therefore, photoprotection is the first line intervention in the prevention of premature aging and skin cancer. Numerous studies have demonstrated that carotenoids, particularly β-carotene, lycopene, lutein, and astaxanthin, have photoprotective effects, not only through direct light-absorbing properties, but also through their antioxidant effects (scavenging reactive oxygen species), as well as by regulation of UV light-induced gene expression, modulation of stress-dependent signaling, and/or suppression of cellular and tissue responses like inflammation. Interventional studies in humans with carotenoid-rich diet have shown its photoprotective effects on the skin (mostly by decreasing the sensitivity to UVR-induced erythema) and its beneficial effects in prevention and improvement of skin aging (improved skin elasticity and hydration, skin texture, wrinkles, and age spots). Furthermore, carotenoids may be helpful in the prevention and treatment of some photodermatoses, including erythropoietic protoporphyria (EPP), porphyria cutanea tarda (PCT) and polymorphous light eruption (PMLE). Although UVR is recognized as the main etiopathogenetic factor in the development of non-melanoma skin cancer (NMSC) and melanoma, and the photoprotective effects of carotenoids are certain, available studies still could not undoubtedly confirm the protective role of carotenoids in skin photocarcinogenesis.

Quantification and characterization of radical production in human, animal and 3D skin models during sun irradiation measured by EPR spectroscopy

Sun radiation is indispensable to our health, however, a long term and high exposure could lead to erythema, premature skin aging and promotion of skin tumors. An underlying pathomechanism is the formation of free radicals. First, reactive oxygen species (*OH, *O₂^-) and then, secondary lipid oxygen species (C centered radicals, CCR) are formed. A high amount of free radicals results in oxidative stress with subsequent cell damage. In dermatological research different skin models are used, however, comparative data about the cutaneous radical formation are missing. In this study, the radical formation in porcine-, (SKH-1) murine-, human- ex vivo skin and reconstructed human skin (RHS) were investigated during simulated sun irradiation (305-2200 nm), with X-band EPR spectroscopy. The amount of radical formation was investigated with the spin probe PCA exposed to a moderate sun dose below one minimal erythema dose (MED, ~25 mJ/cm² UVB) in all skin models. Furthermore, the *OH and *CCR radical concentrations were measured with the spin trap DMPO within 0-4 MED (porcine-, human skin and RHS). The highest amount of radicals was found in RHS followed by murine and porcine, and the lowest amount in human ex vivo skin. In all skin models, more *OH than CCR radicals were found at 0-4 MED. Additionally, this work addresses the limitations in the characterization with the spin trap DMPO. The measurements have shown that the most comparable skin model to in vivo human skin could differ depending on the focus of the investigation. If the amount of radial production is regarded, RHS seems to be in a similar range like in vivo human skin. If the investigation is focused on the radical type, porcine skin is most comparable to ex vivo human skin, at an irradiation dose not exceeding 1 MED. Here, no comparison to in vivo human skin is possible.

Influence of Storage and Preservation Techniques on Egg-Derived Carotenoids: A Substantial Source for Cutaneous Antioxidants

Antioxidants like carotenoids play a major role in the prevention of the destructive influence of free radicals in our skin. Carotenoids, as well as all other antioxidants, are substantial substances which must be supplied by nutrition. Resonance Raman spectroscopy (RRS) allows measurement of the carotenoid content of eggs, representing a rich carotenoid source in our nutrition. A previous study showed that eggs from organic production contain higher carotenoid levels in contrast to eggs from conventionally housed chicken. The uptake of these organically produced eggs led to an increased antioxidant concentration in the skin. In this study, the effects of different storage modalities, conservation techniques, and the effects of food processing on the carotenoid levels in eggs were investigated with RRS. Common storage modalities and preservation techniques showed only a limited influence on egg-derived carotenoid concentrations. However, a colder environment (at least for shell eggs) and high-pressure preservation had the best preservative influence on the carotenoid content. Surprisingly, food processing such as boiling increased the carotenoid concentration in eggs, whilst broiling destroyed the carotenoids almost completely. In conclusion, RRS is suitable for monitoring egg-derived carotenoid levels, and carotenoid levels in eggs are generally stable under common storage and preservation modalities. Boiling in contrast to broiling of eggs might be superior in terms of carotenoid preservation within food processing.

An updated review of clinical methods in the assessment of ageing skin - New perspectives and evaluation for claims support

With the advancement of skin research, today's consumer has increased access to an informed understanding of ageing skin and its appendages, together with a plethora of targeted products to meet such needs. In recent years, increased legislative demands for quality evidential claims support have led not only to the development and validation of clinical methods to measure and quantify ageing skin, but also a clearer understanding of the skin ageing process-especially the impact of both its internal and external environments-as well as a tougher stance on clearly unjustifiable claims. Traditional testing methods used to research and evaluate anti-ageing products claim to employ sophisticated instruments. Today, however, since the term anti-ageing can be considered a misnomer, intelligent use of combined more advanced clinical methods has enabled the development of technologically improved consumer products providing enhanced efficacy and targeted performance. Non-invasive methods for the assessment and quantification of the causes of ageing skin provide tools to the clinical researcher as defined by key clinically observed ageing parameters. Where evidence requires additional support, a number of clinical procedures evaluating ageing skin and hair products are combined with invasive procedures, thus enabling an added value to product claims. As discussed herein, given the enhanced understanding of ageing, we provide an update to our previous reviews of clinical methods used in the assessment of skin ageing, to include the wider aspects of environmental exposure; skin pigmentation; microbiome disturbance; surface topography; colour, radiance, and pH; and structural integrity-all requiring a disciplined approach to their use in dermatological investigations and product claims evidence.

Medicinally important aromatic plants with radioprotective activity

Aromatic plants are often used as natural medicines because of their remedial and inherent pharmacological properties. Looking into natural resources, particularly products of plant origin, has become an exciting area of research in drug discovery and development. Aromatic plants are mainly exploited for essential oil extraction for applications in industries, for example, in cosmetics, flavoring and fragrance, spices, pesticides, repellents and herbal beverages. Although several medicinal plants have been studied to treat various conventional ailments only a handful studies are available on aromatic plants, especially for radioprotection. Many plant extracts have been reported to contain antioxidants that scavenge free radicals produced due to radiation exposure, thus imparting radioprotective efficacy. The present review focuses on a subset of medicinally important aromatic plants with radioprotective activity.

Influences of Orally Taken Carotenoid-Rich Curly Kale Extract on Collagen I/Elastin Index of the Skin

Two differently designed, spatially resolved reflectance spectroscopy-based scanners and two-photon tomography were used for noninvasive in vivo determination of cutaneous carotenoids, and collagen I/elastin aging index of dermis, respectively, in the skin of 29 healthy female volunteers between 40 and 56 years of age. The volunteers received a supplement in the form of a carotenoid-rich natural curly kale extract containing 1650 µg of carotenoids in total (three capsules of 550 µg), once a day. Measurements were taken before, after 5 months and after 10 months of daily supplementation. The results showed significantly increased values for the cutaneous carotenoids and the collagen I/elastin aging index of dermis 5 and 10 months after the beginning of the study. The obtained results show that a natural carotenoid-rich extract could prevent the aging-related collagen I degradation in the dermis and improve the extracellular matrix.

Reducing the Harmful Effects of Infrared Radiation on the Skin Using Bicosomes Incorporating β-Carotene

AIM

In this work the effect of infrared (IR) radiation, at temperatures between 25 and 30°C, on the formation of free radicals (FRs) in the skin is studied. Additionally, the influence of IR radiation at high temperatures in the degradation of skin collagen is evaluated. In both experiments the protective effect against IR radiation of phospholipid nanostructures (bicosomes) incorporating β-carotene (Bcb) is also evaluated.

METHODS

The formation of FRs in skin under IR exposure was measured near physiological temperatures (25-30°C) using 5,5-dimethyl-1-pyrroline-N-oxide spin trap and electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR) spectroscopy. The study of the collagen structure was performed by small-angle X-ray scattering using synchrotron radiation.

RESULTS

EPR results showed an increase in the hydroxyl radical in the irradiated skin compared to the native skin. The skin collagen was degraded by IR exposure at high temperatures of approximately 65°C. The treatment with Bcb reduced the formation of FRs and kept the structure of collagen.

CONCLUSIONS

The formation of FRs by IR radiation does not depend on the increase of skin temperature. The decrease of FRs and the preservation of collagen fibers in the skin treated with Bcb indicate the potential of this lipid system to protect skin under IR exposure.

Functional Food und Bioverfügbarkeit im Zielorgan Haut

Reactive free radicals can be produced in the skin by the action of environmental factors, such as sun radiation and toxins. These radicals can damage the DNA, proteins and lipids of the living cells. The consequences can be skin aging, immune suppression and even skin cancer. Humans have developed a protective mechanism against the action of free radicals in the form of antioxidant substances. Several of these antioxidants cannot be produced by humans and have to be acquired via food, such as carotenoids. Optical, non-invasive methods, like resonance Raman spectroscopy, allow a qualitative and quantitative online detection of the kinetics of antioxidants such as carotenoids in the skin. By employing this method it has been shown that the uptake of carotenoids in food can lead to an accumulation in the skin. On the other hand, stress, illness and UV-radiation can reduce the concentration of antioxidant substances in the skin. A high concentration of antioxidant substances is protective and associated with a reduction in skin wrinkling.

Influence of Topical, Systemic and Combined Application of Antioxidants on the Barrier Properties of the Human Skin

BACKGROUND

The formation of free radicals in human skin by solar ultraviolet radiation is considered to be the main reason for extrinsic skin aging. The antioxidants in human tissue represent an efficient protection system against the destructive action of these reactive free radicals. In this study, the parameters of the skin, epidermal thickness, stratum corneum moisture, elasticity and wrinkle volume, were determined before and after the treatment with antioxidant- or placebo-containing tablets and creams.

METHODS

The study included 5 groups of 15 volunteers each, who were treated for 2 months with antioxidant-containing or placebo tablets, creams or a combination of antioxidant-containing tablets and cream. The skin parameters were measured at time point 0 and at week 8 utilizing ultrasound for the determination of epidermal thickness, a corneometer for stratum corneum moisture measurements, skin profilometry for quantifying the wrinkle volume and a cutometer for determining the elasticity.

RESULTS

The verum cream had a positive influence on epidermal thickness, elasticity and skin moisture, but the verum tablets improved the epidermal thickness only. The combined application of verum tablets and creams led to a significant improvement of all investigated skin parameters, whereas the application of placebo tablets or cream did not influence any parameters.

CONCLUSION

The topical and oral supplementation of antioxidants can be an instrument to improve several skin parameters and potentially counteract or decelerate the process of extrinsic skin aging.

Monitoring bicosomes containing antioxidants in normal and irradiated skin

Monitoring penetration of bicosomes containing antioxidants into normal and irradiated skin by FTIR.

Emulsions Made of Oils from Seeds of GM Flax Protect V79 Cells against Oxidative Stress

Polyunsaturated fatty acids, sterols, and hydrophilic phenolic compounds are components of flax oil that act as antioxidants. We investigated the impact of flax oil from transgenic flax in the form of emulsions on stressed Chinese hamster pulmonary fibroblasts. We found that the emulsions protect V79 cells against the H2O2 and the effect is dose dependent. They reduced the level of intracellular reactive oxygen species and protected genomic DNA against damage. The rate of cell proliferation increased upon treatment with the emulsions at a low concentration, while at a high concentration it decreased significantly, accompanied by increased frequency of apoptotic cell death. Expression analysis of selected genes revealed the upregulatory impact of the emulsions on the histones, acetylases, and deacetylases. Expression of apoptotic, proinflammatory, and anti-inflammatory genes was also altered. It is thus suggested that flax oil emulsions might be useful as a basis for biomedical products that actively protect cells against inflammation and degeneration. The beneficial effect on fibroblast resistance to oxidative damage was superior in the emulsion made of oil from transgenic plants which was correlated with the quantity of antioxidants and squalene. The emulsions from transgenic flax are promising candidates for skin protection against oxidative damage.

Evaluation of carotenoids and reactive oxygen species in human skin after UV irradiation: a critical comparison between in vivo and ex vivo investigations

UV irradiation is one of the most harmful exogenous factors for the human skin. In addition to the development of erythema, free radicals, that is reactive oxygen species (ROS), are induced under its influence and promote the development of oxidative stress in the skin. Several techniques are available for determining the effect of UV irradiation. Resonance Raman spectroscopy (RRS) measures the reduction of the carotenoid concentration, while electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR) spectroscopy enables the analysis of the production of free radicals. Depending on the method, the skin parameters are analysed in vivo or ex vivo. This study provides a critical comparison between in vivo and ex vivo investigations on the ROS formation and carotenoid depletion caused by UV irradiation in human skin. The oxygen content of tissue was also determined. It was shown that the antioxidant status measured in the skin samples in vivo and ex vivo was different. The depletion in the carotenoid concentration in vivo exceeded the value determined ex vivo by a factor of about 1.5, and the radical formation after UV irradiation was significantly greater in vivo by a factor of 3.5 than that measured in excised human skin, which can be explained by the lack of oxygen ex vivo.

Utilization of cytogenetic biomarkers as a tool for assessment of radiation injury and evaluation of radiomodulatory effects of various medicinal plants - a review

Systematic biological measurement of “cytogenetic endpoints” has helped phenomenally in assessment of risks associated with radiation exposure. There has been a surge in recent times for the usage of radioactive materials in health care, agriculture, industrial, and nuclear power sectors. The likelihood of radiation exposure from accidental or occupational means is always higher in an overburdened ecosystem that is continuously challenged to meet the population demands. Risks associated with radiation exposure in this era of modern industrial growth are minimal as international regulations for maintaining the safety standards are stringent and strictly adhered to, however, a recent disaster like “Fukushima” impels us to think beyond. The major objective of radiobiology is the development of an orally effective radio-modifier that provides protection from radiation exposure. Once available for mass usage, these compounds will not only be useful for providing selective protection against accidental and occupational radiation exposure but also help to permit use of higher doses of radiation during treatment of various malignancies curtailing unwarranted adverse effects imposed on normal tissues. Bio-active compounds isolated from natural sources enriched with antioxidants possess unique immune-modulating properties, thus providing a double edged benefit over synthetic radioprotectors. We aim to provide here a comprehensive overview of the various agents originating from plant sources that portrayed promising radioprotection in various experimental models with special emphasis on studies that used cytogenetic biomarkers. The agents will include crude extracts of various medicinal plants, purified fractions, and herbal preparations.

Effects of Porcine Placenta Extract Ingestion on Ultraviolet B-induced Skin Damage in Hairless Mice

The aim of our study was to evaluate the potential benefits of an oral supplement containing porcine placenta extract (PPE) on skin parameters related to cutaneous physiology and aging. PPEs were administered orally to hairless mice for 12 wk. The effects of oral PPE administration on skin water-holding capacity and Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL) were similar to those of oral collagen (HYCPU2) administered as a positive control. Magnified photographs and replica images showed a reduction in UVB-induced wrinkle formation after collagen and PPE treatments. PPE treatments ameliorated the thicker skin surface that results from UVB exposure, based on a histological examination of skin tissue. The groups that were orally administered PPE (0.05%, OL; 0.1%, OH group) showed significantly reduced Matrix Metaloproteinase-2 (MMP-2) mRNA expression levels compared with the UVB control (Con), by 33.5% and 35.2%, respectively. The mRNA expression of another collagen-degrading protein, MMP-9, was also significantly lower in the groups that received oral administration of PPE (especially in the OH group) than in the control group. Additionally, oral administration of PPE significantly upregulated tissue inhibitor of metalloproteinase-1 (TIMP-1) and -2 mRNA expression levels compared with expression levels in the control group (p<0.05). This indicates that orally administered PPE activated the expression of Timp-1 and -2, inhibitors of MMP, which is responsible for collagen degradation in skin. Taken together, we propose that long-term oral administration of PPE might have a beneficial effect with respect to skin photo-aging.

Blue-violet light irradiation dose dependently decreases carotenoids in human skin, which indicates the generation of free radicals

In contrast to ultraviolet and infrared irradiation, which are known to facilitate cutaneous photoaging, immunosuppression, or tumour emergence due to formation of free radicals and reactive oxygen species, potentially similar effects of visible light on the human skin are still poorly characterized. Using a blue-violet light irradiation source and aiming to characterize its potential influence on the antioxidant status of the human skin, the cutaneous carotenoid concentration was measured noninvasively in nine healthy volunteers using resonance Raman spectroscopy following irradiation. The dose-dependent significant degradation of carotenoids was measured to be 13.5% and 21.2% directly after irradiation at 50 J/cm² and 100 J/cm² (P < 0.05). The irradiation intensity was 100 mW/cm². This is above natural conditions; the achieved doses, though, are acquirable under natural conditions. The corresponding restoration lasted 2 and 24 hours, respectively. The degradation of cutaneous carotenoids indirectly shows the amount of generated free radicals and especially reactive oxygen species in human skin. In all volunteers the cutaneous carotenoid concentration dropped down in a manner similar to that caused by the infrared or ultraviolet irradiations, leading to the conclusion that also blue-violet light at high doses could represent a comparably adverse factor for human skin.

Spectroscopic biofeedback on cutaneous carotenoids as part of a prevention program could be effective to raise health awareness in adolescents

The cutaneous carotenoid concentration correlates with the overall antioxidant status of a person and can be seen as biomarker for nutrition and lifestyle. 50 high school students were spectroscopically measured for their cutaneous carotenoid concentrations initially in a static phase, followed by an intervention phase with biofeedback of their measured values, living a healthy lifestyle and on healthy food this time. The volunteers showed higher carotenoid concentrations than found in previous studies. A significant correlation of healthy lifestyle habits and a high antioxidant status could be determined. Subjects improved their nutritional habits and significantly increased their carotenoid concentration during intervention. Follow-up five months later showed a consolidation of the increase. The investigations show that a healthy diet and a well-balanced lifestyle correlate with a high cutaneous antioxidant concentration and that spectroscopic biofeedback measurement of cutaneous carotenoids as part of an integrated prevention program is a feasible and effective means to raise the health awareness in adolescents.

Influence of sun exposure on the cutaneous collagen/elastin fibers and carotenoids: negative effects can be reduced by application of sunscreen

Resonance Raman spectroscopy and multi-photon tomography were used in vivo to analyse the influence of sun exposure on the cutaneous carotenoids and collagen/elastin fibers. Comparing Berlin (low sun exposure) and Monegasque (high sun exposure) volunteers, it could be demonstrated that extended sun exposure significantly reduces the cutaneous carotenoids and collagen/elastin concentration (p < 0.05). The tendency towards correlation (R(2) = 0.41) between the dermal collagen/elastin (SAAID) and carotenoids confirms the important role of antioxidants in the protection against sun-induced negative effects. The application of sunscreen was shown to be effective, protecting cutaneous carotenoids and collagen/elastin from being damaged subsequent to sun exposure.

Noninvasive measurements of carotenoids in bovine udder by reflection spectroscopy

For a long time, the antioxidative status in cattle has been discussed as an indicator for stress conditions resulting from disease or exertion. Until now, invasive approaches have been necessary to obtain blood samples or biopsy materials and gain insights into the antioxidative status of cattle. Due to these efforts and the costs of the analyses, serial sampling is feasible in an experimental setting, but not for measurements on a routine basis. The present study focuses on the feasibility of an innovative, noninvasive spectroscopic technique that allows in vivo measurements of carotenoids in the skin by reflection spectroscopy. To this end, in a first trial, repeated measurements of the carotenoid concentration of the udder skin were performed on 25 healthy cattle from different breeds. Carotenoid concentrations showed highly significant differences between individual animals (P<0.001), although they were kept under the same environmental conditions and received the same diet. The carotenoid concentrations in "sensitive" and "robust" cows (evaluated by a temperament test) differed significantly (P<0.005), with higher concentrations observed in robust cows.

Comparison of two methods for noninvasive determination of carotenoids in human and animal skin: Raman spectroscopy versus reflection spectroscopy

Based on compelling in vivo and in vitro studies on human skin, carotenoids are thought to be of great interest as powerful antioxidants acting to prevent free-radical-induced damages, including premature skin ageing and the development of skin diseases such as cancer. Among the available techniques that are suitable for noninvasive determination of carotenoids in human skin, are resonance Raman spectroscopy (RRS) and reflection spectroscopy (RS). For RS, a LED-based miniaturized spectroscopic system (MSS) was developed for noninvasive measurement of carotenoids in human skin. The optimization and subsequent calibration of the MSS was performed with the use of RRS. A strong correlation between the carotenoid concentration determined by the RS and for the RRS system was achieved for human skin in vivo (R = 0.88) and for bovine udder skin in vitro (R = 0.81).

Raman spectroscopic analysis of the carotenoid concentration in egg yolks depending on the feeding and housing conditions of the laying hens

Resonance Raman spectroscopic measurements are suited to analyze the concentration of carotenoid antioxidants in biological samples. Previously, it has been shown that the carotenoid concentration of nutritional egg yolks has a direct influence on the carotenoid content of human skin in vivo. In the present study, resonance Raman spectroscopy was used to analyze the carotenoid concentration in the yolks of hen eggs, which were housed in battery cages or alternatively on free-range grassland. The egg yolks of hens, which had access to grassland, contained approximately double the amount of carotenoid concentration than the egg yolks of hens housed in battery cages (p < 0.001). The kinetics of the carotenoid concentration in the egg yolks, depending on fodder, housing and weather conditions, were investigated.

The Role of Carotenoids in Human Skin

The human skin, as the boundary organ between the human body and the environment, is under the constant influence of free radicals (FR), both from the outside in and from the inside out. Carotenoids are known to be powerful antioxidant substances playing an essential role in the reactions of neutralization of FR (mainly reactive oxygen species ROS). Carotenoid molecules present in the tissue are capable of neutralizing several attacks of FR, especially ROS, and are then destroyed. Human skin contains carotenoids, such as α-, γ-, β-carotene, lutein, zeaxanthin, lycopene and their isomers, which serve the living cells as a protection against oxidation. Recent studies have reported the possibility to investigate carotenoids in human skin quickly and non-invasively by spectroscopic means. Results obtained from in-vivo studies on human skin have shown that carotenoids are vital components of the antioxidative protective system of the human skin and could serve as marker substances for the overall antioxidative status. Reflecting the nutritional and stress situation of volunteers, carotenoids must be administered by means of antioxidant-rich products, e.g., in the form of fruit and vegetables. Carotenoids are degraded by stress factors of any type, inter alia, sun radiation, contact with environmental hazards, illness, etc. The kinetics of the accumulation and degradation of carotenoids in the skin have been investigated.

Uptake of antioxidants by natural nutrition and supplementation: pros and cons from the dermatological point of view

The pros and cons of the systemic and topical application of antioxidant substances are a subject of intense discussion among experts, with resulting confusion for consumers and producers. The objective of the present article is to clarify the various uncertainties relating to the use of antioxidant substances in dermatology. Whereas inappropriate application of antioxidant substances (concerning their concentration and composition) might induce harmful effects, the consumer will definitively benefit from physiological concentrations and compositions of antioxidants. The most suitable method is the consumption of natural antioxidants in the form of fruit and vegetables, for example. In addition, the skin, which also accumulates antioxidant substances, may profit from a sufficient antioxidative level, as damage induced by sun radiation in addition to skin aging is reduced.

Phenolic composition and antioxidant properties of poplar bud (Populus nigra) extract: individual antioxidant contribution of phenolics and transcriptional effect on skin aging

The Populus species possess great potential for therapeutical applications, especially for their known anti-inflammatory properties. The antioxidant properties of propolis, a hive product collected by honey bees mainly from poplar bud exudates, suggest that poplar buds also possess antioxidant properties. Here is reported the characterization of the antioxidant properties of an aqueous poplar bud (Populus nigra) extract. It presented a high total phenolic content, and moderate antioxidant properties as determined by ORAC assay. The main phenolic compounds identified were phenolic acids and flavonoid aglycons. These phenolic compounds were analyzed by ORAC assay for their individual antioxidant activity, in order to determine the major contributors to the total antioxidant activity of the extract. Thanks to their high antioxidant activity, caffeic and p-coumaric acids were identified as the major antioxidant components. Representing only 3.5% of its dry weight, these compounds represented together about 50% of the total antioxidant activity of the extract. The antioxidant properties of poplar bud extract and the phenolic compounds identified were also analyzed by cellular antioxidant activity assay (CAA), which was weakly correlated with ORAC assay. The transcriptional effect of poplar bud extract on skin aging was evaluated in vitro on a replicative senescence model of normal human dermal fibroblasts, using a customized DNA macroarray specifically designed to investigate skin aging markers. Among the detected genes, poplar bud extract significantly regulated genes involved in antioxidant defenses, inflammatory response and cell renewal. The collective antioxidant properties and transcriptional effect of this extract suggest potential antiaging properties which could be utilized in cosmetic and nutraceutical formulations.

Interaction between carotenoids and free radicals in human skin

Environmental factors like air pollutants, radiation of the sun and stress factors such as illness, smoking, or alcohol abuse produce free radicals in the human tissue as well as in the skin. Free radicals serve as the main cause for premature skin aging. Additionally, they also contribute towards immunosuppression and the formation of skin diseases including cancer. The human organism has developed a protection system against the destructive action of free radicals by means of the antioxidant network. In the present study, the interaction of free radicals and carotenoid antioxidants in the human skin under in vivo conditions was investigated and summarized. The measurement of carotenoids in human skin was performed in vivo using resonance Raman spectroscopy.

Carotenoids in human skin

The interaction of free radicals with antioxidants is a topic of increasing interest in the development of prevention strategies against skin ageing. Carotenoids can serve as marker substances for the complete antioxidative network of human skin. Recently, it has become possible to measure the carotenoids non-invasively and online using resonance Raman spectroscopy. This method has been used in various studies to investigate the interaction of carotenoid antioxidants and free radicals in human skin. In this review, the results of the selected studies are summarized and compared. It could be demonstrated that the carotenoid concentration of the skin reflects the lifestyle of individuals. A high level of carotenoids can be achieved with a healthy diet rich, for instance, in fruit and vegetables. Stress factors such as illness, UV and IR radiation of the sun, and smoking and alcohol consumption reduce the concentration of the carotenoids in the skin. It could be demonstrated that premature skin ageing was less in people with a high level of antioxidants in their tissue. Consequently, the furrows and wrinkles were not so deep and dense as in the skin of individuals with a low antioxidant level. The measurements are highly suited for the development of anti-ageing strategies and can be efficiently used in the medical diagnostics and therapy control.

Determination of the antioxidative capacity of the skin in vivo using resonance Raman and electron paramagnetic resonance spectroscopy

BACKGROUND

Non-invasive measurements are of major interest for investigating the effects of stress, nutrition, diseases or pharmaceuticals on the antioxidative capacity of the human skin. However, only a few non-invasive methods are available.

MATERIAL AND METHODS

The resonance Raman spectroscopy is well established to monitor carotenoids in the skin, but correlations with other antioxidants have not yet been described. Electron paramagnetic resonance spectroscopy used for measurements of free radicals has already been used elsewhere to investigate the reduction of applied long-living nitroxide radicals, caused by skin antioxidants and UV irradiation, but only a single or up to four volunteers were included in these studies. Therefore, in this study, the two methods were applied in parallel on 17 volunteers, and the rate constant of the nitroxide decrease was correlated with the cutaneous carotenoid concentration.

RESULTS AND DISCUSSION

A correlation with R = 0.65 was found, supporting the thesis that different antioxidants protect each other and build an antioxidative network in the skin. The results also give first indications that the carotenoids serve as marker substances for the antioxidative capacity, if the nutrition is well balanced.

Kinetics of carotenoid distribution in human skin in vivo after exogenous stress: disinfectant and wIRA-induced carotenoid depletion recovers from outside to inside

The human organism has developed a protection system against the destructive effect of free radicals. The aim of the present study was to investigate the extent of exogenous stress factors such as disinfectant and IR-A radiation on the skin, and their influence on the kinetics of carotenoids distribution during the recovery process. Ten healthy volunteers were assessed with resonance spectroscopy using an Argon-laser at 488 nm to excite the carotenoids in vivo. Additionally, Raman-confocal-micro-spectroscopy measurements were performed using a model 3510 Skin Composition Analyzer with spatially resolved measurements down to 30 μm. The measurements were performed at a baseline of 20, 40, 60, and 120 min after an external stressor consisting either of water-filtered infrared A (wIRA) with 150 mW∕cm(2) or 1 ml∕cm(2) of an alcoholic disinfectant. Both Raman methods were capable to detect the infrared-induced depletion of carotenoids. Only Raman-microspectroscopy could reveal the carotenoids decrease after topical disinfectant application. The carotenoid-depletion started at the surface. After 60 min, recovery starts at the surface while deeper parts were still depleted. The disinfectant- and wIRA-induced carotenoid depletion in the epidermis recovers from outside to inside and probably delivered by sweat and sebaceous glands. We could show that the Raman microscopic spectroscopy is suited to analyze the carotenoid kinetic of stress effects and recovery.

Determination of the influence of IR radiation on the antioxidative network of the human skin

Production of free radicals in the human skin subsequent to IR irradiation has been demonstrated by means of two different methods. The first technique, based on resonance Raman spectroscopy, enables the non-invasive measurements of the kinetics of cutaneous carotenoid antioxidants beta-carotene and lycopene, subsequent to IR irradiation. Obtained degradation of the cutaneous carotenoids was a hint but not evidence that IR irradiation can produce free radicals in the skin. Therefore, the direct observation sustaining the production of free radicals subsequent to IR irradiation in the skin was performed in-vitro by electron paramagnetic resonance spectroscopy. Enzymatic processes as well as heat shock-induced radicals in the human skin are presumably involved in the energy transfer from IR irradiation into the molecules of the skin. Protection strategy for human skin against IR-induced free radicals based on the increase in the concentration of antioxidants by means of antioxidant-rich supplementation is discussed.

DNA macroarray study of skin aging-related genes expression modulation by antioxidant plant extracts on a replicative senescence model of human dermal fibroblasts

The formation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) is a widely accepted pivotal mechanism leading to skin aging. It increases with age, while the endogenous defense mechanisms that counter them decrease. This imbalance, called oxidative stress, leads to the progressive damage of cellular structures and results in accelerated aging. Antioxidant compounds can provide protection from endogenous and exogenous oxidative stress by scavenging free radicals. The main phenolic compounds of oak wood, mate leaf and benjoin resin antioxidant extracts were identified and the effects of these extracts on skin aging markers were evaluated using DNA macroarray technology. The transcriptional effect of the three antioxidant extracts was evaluated in vitro on a replicative senescence model of normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDF), using a customized DNA macroarray specifically designed to investigate aging markers such as dermal structure, cell renewal, inflammatory response and oxidative stress mechanisms. Among the 149 genes detected, the three antioxidant extracts presented a significant regulation of five genes involved in inflammatory response, cell renewal and antioxidant defenses. The collective transcriptional effects of these extracts suggest interesting antiaging properties which could be utilized in nutraceutical antiaging formulations.

Solar radiation induced skin damage: review of protective and preventive options

PURPOSE

Solar energy has a number of short- and long-term detrimental effects on skin that can result in several skin disorders. The aim of this review is to summarise current knowledge on endogenous systems within the skin for protection from solar radiation and present research findings to date, on the exogenous options for such skin photoprotection.

RESULTS

Endogenous systems for protection from solar radiation include melanin synthesis, epidermal thickening and an antioxidant network. Existing lesions are eliminated via repair mechanisms. Cells with irreparable damage undergo apoptosis. Excessive and chronic sun exposure however can overwhelm these mechanisms leading to photoaging and the development of cutaneous malignancies. Therefore exogenous means are a necessity. Exogenous protection includes sun avoidance, use of photoprotective clothing and sufficient application of broad-spectrum sunscreens as presently the best way to protect the skin. However other strategies that may enhance currently used means of protection are being investigated. These are often based on the endogenous protective response to solar light such as compounds that stimulate pigmentation, antioxidant enzymes, DNA repair enzymes, non-enzymatic antioxidants.

CONCLUSION

More research is needed to confirm the effectiveness of new alternatives to photoprotection such as use of DNA repair and antioxidant enzymes and plant polyphenols and to find an efficient way for their delivery to the skin. New approaches to the prevention of skin damage are important especially for specific groups of people such as (young) children, photosensitive people and patients on immunosuppressive therapy. Changes in public awareness on the subject too must be made.

Resonance Raman spectroscopy as an effective tool for the determination of antioxidative stability of cosmetic formulations

Carotenoids beta-carotene, lutein, lycopene and others are well-known powerful antioxidants acting as an effective neutralizer of free radicals produced in the human organism as a result of the influence of stress factors, such as UV irradiation. The protective effect of antioxidants is used in cosmetic products to increase the skin protection against the destructive action of free radicals and for the stabilization of formulations against oxidation. In the skin, the different antioxidant substances form protection chains to avoid their destruction by the interaction with the free radicals. Similar effects have to be expected also in topically applied formulations. In the present study the influence of different mixtures of antioxidants (beta-carotene, vitamins C and E) on the stability of antioxidants in formulations used for skin treatment was investigated. The measurements were carried out by using non-invasive resonance Raman spectroscopy for the detection of the carotenoid concentration in the cosmetic formulations.

Cosmeceuticals vitamins

The term cosmeceutical was created over 25 years ago to define products with active substances that cannot be considered cosmetics or drugs. Cosmeceuticals are increasingly popular, with sales representing one of the largest growing segments of the skin care market. These products are found in many forms, including vitamins, peptides, growth factors, and botanical extracts. Cosmeceuticals that contain topically applied vitamins have an increasing role in skin care.

Raman spectroscopic analysis of the increase of the carotenoid antioxidant concentration in human skin after a 1-week diet with ecological eggs

Skin aging is mainly caused by the destructive action of free radicals, produced by the UV light of the sun. The human skin has developed a protection system against these highly reactive molecules in the form of the antioxidative potential. Carotenoids are one of the main components of the antioxidants of the human skin. From former studies, it is known that skin aging is reduced in individuals with high levels of carotenoids. Because most of the antioxidants cannot be produced by the human organism, they must be up taken by nutrition. Using noninvasive Raman spectroscopic measurements it is demonstrated that not only fruits and vegetables but also eggs contain high concentrations of antioxidants including carotenoids, which are even doubled in the case of ecological eggs. After a 1-week diet with ecological eggs performed by six volunteers, it is found that the concentration of the carotenoids in the skin of the volunteers increased by approx. 20%. Our study does not intend to recommend exorbitant egg consumption, as eggs also contain harmful cholesterol. But in the case of egg consumption, ecological eggs from hens kept on pasture should be preferred to also receive a benefit for the skin.

Comparison of human and porcine skin for characterization of sunscreens

The universal sun protection factor (USPF) characterizing sunscreen efficacy based on spectroscopically determined data, which were obtained using the tape stripping procedure. The USPF takes into account the complete ultraviolet (UV) spectral range in contrast to the classical sun protection factor (SPF). Until now, the USPF determination has been evaluated only in human skin. However, investigating new filters not yet licensed excludes in vivo investigation on human skin but requires the utilization of a suitable skin model. The penetration behavior and the protection efficacy of 10 commercial sunscreens characterized by USPF were investigated, comparing human and porcine skin. The penetration behavior found for typical UV filter substances is nearly identical for both skin types. The comparison of the USPF obtained for human and porcine skin results in a linear relation between both USPF values with a correlation factor R(2)=0.98. The results demonstrate the possibility for the use of porcine skin to determine the protection efficacy of sunscreens.

One-year study on the variation of carotenoid antioxidant substances in living human skin: influence of dietary supplementation and stress factors

Variation in the level of the carotenoid antioxidant substances beta-carotene and lycopene in the human skin of ten healthy volunteers was measured with resonance Raman spectroscopy in an in vivo experiment over the course of 12 months. Information on the lifestyle of the volunteers concerning dietary supplementation and stress factors was obtained daily by the completion of questionnaires. The results showed individual variations in the levels of carotenoid antioxidant substances in the skin of the volunteers, which strongly correlated to specific lifestyles, such as the intake of dietary supplementations rich in carotenoids, and the influence of stress factors. A carotenoid-rich nutrition, based on large amounts of fruit and vegetables, increased the measured carotenoid levels of skin, while stress factors such as fatigue, illness, smoking, and alcohol consumption gave rise to a decrease in carotenoid levels of the skin. These decreases occurred relatively quickly over the course of one day, while the subsequent increases lasted for up to 3 days. During the summer and autumn months, an increase in the level of carotenoids in the skin was measured for all volunteers. The average "seasonal increase" of the carotenoid content in the skin was determined to be 1.26-fold.