Properties of ceramides and their impact on the stratum corneum structure. Part 2: stratum corneum lipid model systems

Lipid Biomimetic Models as Simple Yet Complex Tools to Predict Skin Permeation and Drug-Membrane Biophysical Interactions

The barrier function of the skin is primarily determined by its outermost layer, the Stratum Corneum (SC). The SC consists of corneocytes embedded in a lipid matrix composed mainly of ceramides, cholesterol, and free fatty acids in equimolar proportions and is organised in a complex lamellar structure with different periodicities and lateral packings. This matrix provides a diffusion pathway across the SC for bioactive compounds that are administered to the skin. In this regard, and as the skin administration route has grown in popularity, there has been an increase in the use of lipid mixtures that closely resemble the SC lipid matrix, either for a deeper biophysical understanding or for pharmaceutical and cosmetic purposes. This review focuses on a systematic analysis of the main outcomes of using lipid mixtures as SC lipid matrix models for pharmaceutical and cosmetic purposes. Thus, a methodical evaluation of the main outcomes based on the SC structure is performed, as well as the main recent developments in finding suitable new in vitro tools for permeation testing based on lipid models.

A Synthetic Model of the Mucosa for Oral Penetration Studies

The main objective of this study is the evaluation of the use of a synthetic membrane, Nuclepore, as a model for permeation studies through sublingual mucosa. The permeability of two types of membranes, porcine sublingual oral mucosa and a synthetic Nuclepore membrane, to water was compared. Moreover, the water permeability of membranes modified with waterproofing formulations was measured to study their ability to protect against the penetration of viruses, toxins, etc. A relatively high correlation (R2 0.88) was obtained between the transmucosal water loss (TMWL) values of the artificial membrane and the mucosa. These results support the possible use of this synthetic membrane in the screening of the water permeability of formulations. In addition, studies of the permeation of different actives, drugs, and biocides through the two membranes were carried out, and these results were compared with their skin permeation data. The synthetic membrane does not seem to discern between compounds in terms of permeability. However, the permeation of caffeine through intact or modified membranes incorporating waterproofing formulations presents similar permeation profiles through the synthetic membrane and mucosa. The results from these assays should lend support to the use of this synthetic membrane when screening formulations to be applied in oral penetration studies.

Permeation Protection by Waterproofing Mucosal Membranes

The permeability of the oral or nasal mucosa is higher than that of the skin. Mucosa permeability depends mainly on the thickness and keratinization degree of the tissues. Their permeability barrier is conditioned by the presence of certain lipids. This work has the main aim of reinforcing the barrier effect of oral mucosa with a series of formulations to reduce permeation. Transmembrane water loss of different formulations was evaluated, and three of them were selected to be tested on the sublingual mucosa permeation of drugs. Caffeine, ibuprofen, dexamethasone, and ivermectin were applied on porcine skin, mucosa, and modified mucosa in order to compare the effectiveness of the formulations. A similar permeation profile was obtained in the different membranes: caffeine > ibuprofen~dexamethasone > ivermectin. The most efficient formulation was a liposomal formulation composed of lipids that are present in the skin stratum corneum. Impermeability provided by this formulation was notable mainly for the low-molecular-weight compounds, decreasing their permeability coefficient by between 40 and 80%. The reinforcement of the barrier function of mucosa provides a reduction or prevention of the permeation of different actives, which could be extrapolated to toxic compounds such as viruses, contaminants, toxins, etc.

The Intriguing Molecular Dynamics of Cer[EOS] in Rigid Skin Barrier Lipid Layers Requires Improvement of the Model

Omega-O-acyl ceramides such as 32-linoleoyloxydotriacontanoyl sphingosine (Cer[EOS]) are essential components of the lipid skin barrier, which protects our body from excessive water loss and the penetration of unwanted substances. These ceramides drive the lipid assembly to epidermal-specific long periodicity phase (LPP), structurally much different than conventional lipid bilayers. Here, we synthesized Cer[EOS] with selectively deuterated segments of the ultralong N-acyl chain or deuterated or ¹³C-labeled linoleic acid and studied their molecular behavior in a skin lipid model. Solid-state ²H NMR data revealed surprising molecular dynamics for the ultralong N-acyl chain of Cer[EOS] with increased isotropic motion towards the isotropic ester-bound linoleate. The sphingosine moiety of Cer[EOS] is also highly mobile at skin temperature, in stark contrast to the other LPP components, N-lignoceroyl sphingosine acyl, lignoceric acid and cholesterol, which are predominantly rigid. The dynamics of the linoleic chain is quantitatively described by distributions of correlation times and using dynamic detector analysis. These NMR results along with neutron diffraction data suggest an LPP structure with alternating fluid (sphingosine chain-rich), rigid (acyl chain-rich), isotropic (linoleate-rich), rigid (acyl-chain rich), and fluid layers (sphingosine chain-rich). Such an arrangement of the skin barrier lipids with rigid layers separated with two different dynamic "fillings" i) agrees well with ultrastructural data, ii) satisfies the need for simultaneous rigidity (to ensure low permeability) and fluidity (to ensure elasticity, accommodate enzymes or antimicrobial peptides), and iii) offers a straightforward way to remodel the lamellar body lipids into the final lipid barrier.

Investigating the nanostructure of a CER[NP]/CER[AP]-based stratum corneum lipid matrix model: A combined neutron diffraction & molecular dynamics simulations approach

The human skin provides a physiochemical and biological protective barrier due to the unique structure of its outermost layer known as the Stratum corneum. This layer consists of corneocytes and a multi-lamellar lipid matrix forming a composite, which is a major determining factor for the barrier function of the Stratum corneum. A substantiated understanding of this barrier is necessary, as controlled breaching or modulation of the same is also essential for various health and personal care applications such as topical drug delivery and cosmetics to a name few. In this study, we discuss the state-of-the-art of neutron diffraction techniques, using specifically deuterated lipids, combined with the information obtained from molecular models using molecular dynamics simulations, to understand the structure and barrier function of the Stratum corneum lipid matrix. As an example, the effect of ceramide concentration on a lipid lamella system consisting of CER[NP]/CER[AP]/Cholesterol/free fatty acid (deprotonated) is studied. This study demonstrates the usefulness of the combined approach of neutron diffraction and molecular dynamics simulations for effective analysis of the model systems created for the Stratum corneum lipid matrix. The optimization of force fields by comparison with experimental data is furthermore an important step in the direction of providing a predictive quality.

Cerosomes as skin repairing agent: Mode of action studies with a model stratum corneum layer at liquid/air and liquid/solid interfaces

The stratum corneum (SC) is the largest physical barrier of the human body. It protects against physical, chemical and biological damages, and avoids evaporation of water from the deepest skin layers. For its correct functioning, the homeostasis of the SC lipid matrix is fundamental. An alteration of the lipid matrix composition and in particular of its ceramide (CER) fraction can lead to the development of pathologies such as atopic dermatitis and psoriasis. Different studies showed that the direct replenishment of SC lipids on damaged skin had positive effects on the recovery of its barrier properties. In this work, cerosomes, i.e. liposomes composed of SC lipids, have been successfully prepared in order to investigate the mechanism of interaction with a model SC lipid matrix. The cerosomes contain CER[NP], D-CER[AP], stearic acid and cholesterol. In addition, hydrogenated soybean phospholipids have been added to one of the formulations leading to an increased stability at neutral pH. For the mode of action studies, monolayer models at the air-water interface and on solid support have been deployed. The results indicated that a strong interaction occurred between SC monolayers and the cerosomes. Since both systems were negatively charged, the driving force for the interaction must be based on the ability of CERs head groups to establish intermolecular hydrogen bonding networks that energetically prevailed against the electrostatic repulsion. This work proved for the first time the mode of action by which cerosomes exploit their function as skin barrier repairing agents on the SC.

Effects of (R)- and (S)-α-Hydroxylation of Acyl Chains in Sphingosine, Dihydrosphingosine, and Phytosphingosine Ceramides on Phase Behavior and Permeability of Skin Lipid Models

Ceramides (Cers) with α-hydroxylated acyl chains comprise about a third of all extractable skin Cers and are required for permeability barrier homeostasis. We have probed here the effects of Cer hydroxylation on their behavior in lipid models comprising the major SC lipids, Cer/free fatty acids (C ₁₆-C ₂₄)/cholesterol, and a minor component, cholesteryl sulfate. Namely, Cers with (R)-α-hydroxy lignoceroyl chains attached to sphingosine (Cer AS), dihydrosphingosine (Cer AdS), and phytosphingosine (Cer AP) were compared to their unnatural (S)-diastereomers and to Cers with non-hydroxylated lignoceroyl chains attached to sphingosine (Cer NS), dihydrosphingosine (Cer NdS), and phytosphingosine (Cer NP). By comparing several biophysical parameters (lamellar organization by X-ray diffraction, chain order, lateral packing, phase transitions, and lipid mixing by infrared spectroscopy using deuterated lipids) and the permeabilities of these models (water loss and two permeability markers), we conclude that there is no general or common consequence of Cer α-hydroxylation. Instead, we found a rich mix of effects, highly dependent on the sphingoid base chain, configuration at the α-carbon, and permeability marker used. We found that the model membranes with unnatural Cer (S)-AS have fewer orthorhombically packed lipid chains than those based on the (R)-diastereomer. In addition, physiological (R)-configuration decreases the permeability of membranes, with Cer (R)-AdS to theophylline, and increases the lipid chain order in model systems with natural Cer (R)-AP. Thus, each Cer subclass makes a distinct contribution to the structural organization and function of the skin lipid barrier.

Lanolin-Based Synthetic Membranes for Transdermal Permeation and Penetration Drug Delivery Assays

Due to the high similarity in composition and structure between lanolin and human SC lipids, we will work with two models from wool wax. Two types of lanolin were evaluated: one extracted with water and surfactants (WEL) and the other extracted with organic solvents (SEL). Skin permeation and skin penetration studies were performed with two active compounds to study the feasibility of the use of lanolin-based synthetic membranes as models of mammalian skin. Diclofenac sodium and lidocaine were selected as the active compounds considering that they have different chemical natures and different lipophilicities. In the permeation assay with SEL, a better correlation was obtained with the less permeable compound diclofenac sodium. This assay suggests the feasibility of using artificial membranes with SEL as a model for percutaneous absorption studies, even though the lipophilic barrier should be improved. Penetration profiles of the APIs through the SEL and WEL membranes indicated that the two membranes diminish penetration and can be considered good membrane surrogates for skin permeability studies. However, the WEL membranes, with a pH value similar to that of the skin surface, promoted a higher degree of diminution of the permeability of the two drugs, similar to those found for the skin.

State of the Art in Stratum Corneum Research. Part II: Hypothetical Stratum Corneum Lipid Matrix Models

This review is the second part of a series which presents the state of the art in stratum corneum (SC) lipid matrix (LM) research in depth. In this part, the various hypothetical models which were developed to describe the structure and function of the SC LM as the skin's barrier will be discussed. New as well as a cumulative assortment of older results which change the view on the different models are considered to conclude how well the different models are holding up today. As a final conclusion, a model, factoring in as much of the known data as possible, is concluded, unifying the varying different models into one which can be developed further, as new results are found in the future. So far, the model is described with a single crystalline or gel-like phase with a certain amount of nanocrystallites of concentrated ceramides (CERs) and free fatty acids and more fluid nanodomains caused by a fluidizing effect of the cholesterol. These domains are dynamically resolved and reformed and do not impair the barrier function. The chain conformation is not completely clear yet; however, an equilibrium of fully extended and hairpin-folded CERs with ratios depending on the properties of each individual CER species is proposed as most likely. An overlapping middle layer as described for the tri-layer model in part I of this series would be present for both conformations. The macroscopic broad-narrow-broad layering, observed in electron micrographs, is explained by an external templating by the lipid envelope, and an internal templating by short and long lipid chains each preferentially show a homophilic association, forming thicker and thinner bilayers, respectively. The degree of influence of the very long ω-hydroxy-CERs is discussed as well.

Lanolin-Based Synthetic Membranes as Percutaneous Absorption Models for Transdermal Drug Delivery

Background: The major in vitro permeation studies are currently performed in Franz-type diffusion cells because of their simplicity, cost effectiveness and because the experimental conditions can be easily controlled. Apart from the skin, Franz-type diffusion cells can be used with synthetic membranes. Nevertheless, they do not emulate the nature of the lipidic matrix, which is responsible for the topical barrier function. Objective: This paper offers two new approaches combining different synthetic membranes (Strat-M^® and Nucleopore^®) with lanolin, which provides lipidic components similar to the lipidic matrix. Methods: The molecular structure of lanolin was studied in membranes by attenuated total reflectance infrared spectroscopy (ATR-IR). The water permeability and absorption of lidocaine, diclofenac sodium and betamethasone dipropionate were also studied and compared against free-lanolin membranes and skin. Results: The results showed an increasing barrier function after lanolin application in both membranes, resulting in a decrease in water permeability. Observing the IR spectra, the lateral packaging of the lipid in the synthetic membranes seems to emulate the orthorhombic disposition from the stratum corneum. Moreover, the three substances applied to the lanolin-containing membranes have a similar absorption to that of the skin. Conclusions: In conclusion, combining synthetic membranes with lanolin may be a useful approach to mimic topical actives’ absorption.

Impact of the ceramide subspecies on the nanostructure of stratum corneum lipids using neutron scattering and molecular dynamics simulations. Part I: impact of CER[NS]

For this study mixtures based on the ceramides [NS] (NS = non-hydroxy-sphingosine) and [AP] (AP = α-hydroxy-phytosphingosine) in a 2:1 and 1:2 ratio, together with cholesterol and lignoceric acid, were investigated. These mixtures are modelling the uppermost skin layer, the stratum corneum. Neutron diffraction, utilizing specifically deuterated ceramide molecules, was used to obtain a maximum amount of experimental detail. Highly detailed molecular dynamics simulations were used to generate even more information from the experimental data. It was possible to observe a single lamellar phase for both systems. They had a lamellar repeat distance of 5.43 ± 0.05 nm for the [NS]/[AP] 2:1 and a slightly shorter one of 5.34 ± 0.05 nm for the 1:2 system. The structure and water content was uninfluenced by excess humidity. Both the experimental and simulation data indicated slightly tilted ceramides, with their C24 chains overlapping in the lamellar mid-plane. This arrangement is well comparable to systems investigated before. The structure of both systems, except for the differing repeat distance, looks similar at first. However, on a smaller scale there were various distinct differences, demonstrating only low redundancy between the different ceramide species, despite only minor chemical differences. The mainly ceramide [AP] determined 1:2 system has a slightly smaller repeat distance. This is a result of a tighter arrangement of the lipids chain along the bilayer normal and increased overlapping of the long chains in the lamellar middle. For the CER[NS] some novel features could be shown, despite it being the overall most investigated ceramide. These include the low adaptability to changed lateral interactions, leading to an increased chain opening. This effect could explain its low miscibility with other lipids. The investigated model systems allows it to directly compare results from the literature which have used ceramide [NS] to the most recent studies using the phytosphingosine ceramides such as ceramide [AP].

Molecular dynamics simulations of stratum corneum lipid mixtures: A multiscale perspective

The lipid matrix of the stratum corneum (SC) layer of skin is essential for human survival; it acts as a barrier to prevent rapid dehydration while keeping potentially hazardous material outside the body. While the composition of the SC lipid matrix is known, the molecular-level details of its organization are difficult to infer experimentally, hindering the discovery of structure-property relationships. To this end, molecular dynamics simulations, which give molecular-level resolution, have begun to play an increasingly important role in understanding these relationships. However, most simulation studies of SC lipids have focused on preassembled bilayer configurations, which, owing to the slow dynamics of the lipids, may influence the final structure and hence the calculated properties. Self-assembled structures would avoid this dependence on the initial configuration, however, the size and length scales involved make self-assembly impractical to study with atomistic models. Here, we report on the development of coarse-grained models of SC lipids designed to study self-assembly. Building on previous work, we present the interactions between the headgroups of ceramide and free fatty acid developed using the multistate iterative Boltzmann inversion method. Validation of the new interactions is performed with simulations of preassembled bilayers and good agreement between the atomistic and coarse-grained models is found for structural properties. The self-assembly of mixtures of ceramide and free fatty acid is investigated and both bilayer and multilayer structures are found to form. This work therefore represents a necessary step in studying SC lipid systems on multiple time and length scales.

Derivatization of honokiol by integrated acetylation and methylation for improved cutaneous delivery and anti-inflammatory potency

A set of honokiol derivatives was synthesized to evaluate skin permeation and bioactivity. The reaction for derivatization included acetylation and methylation. The anti-inflammatory activity against neutrophils and macrophages was examined. The experimental setup for the assessment of cutaneous absorption was the in vitro Franz diffusion assembly. Honokiol and its derivatives significantly downregulated superoxide anion and elastase production in neutrophils, with honokiol showing the greatest inhibition. All derivatives could be completely hydrolyzed to the parent compounds after passing into the skin. The skin deposition of honokiol at an infinite dose (3mM) was 0.33nmol/mg 4'-O-acetylhonokiol (AH), and 2,4'-diacetylhonokiol (DAH) exhibited comparable or less absorption than honokiol. The integrated acetylation and methylation (2-O-acetyl-4'-O-methylhonokiol, AMH) led to a 10.5-fold improvement of absorption compared to honokiol. AMH was advantageous for the targeted cutaneous treatment due to the high skin deposition and minimal penetration across the skin (8.40nmol/cm² compared to 93.49nmol/cm² for honokiol). The predicted therapeutic index for superoxide and interleukin (IL)-6 inhibition was much higher for topically applied AMH than for the other penetrants tested. The total polarity surface and hydrogen bond acceptor number calculated by molecular modeling were the parameters used to anticipate the cutaneous absorption. Our data suggest that AMH is a potent and safe candidate for cutaneous inflammation therapy.

Free radicals induced by sunlight in different spectral regions - in vivo versus ex vivo study

Sunlight represents an exogenous factor stimulating formation of free radicals which can induce cell damage. To assess the effect of the different spectral solar regions on the development of free radicals in skin, in vivo electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR) investigations with human volunteers and ex vivo studies on excised human and porcine skin were carried out. For all skin probes, the ultraviolet (UV) spectral region stimulates the most intensive radical formation, followed by the visible (VIS) and the near infrared (NIR) regions. A comparison between the different skin models shows that for UV light, the fastest and highest production of free radicals could be detected in vivo, followed by excised porcine and human skin. The same distribution pattern was found for the VIS/NIR spectral regions, whereby the differences in radical formation between in vivo and ex vivo were less pronounced. An analysis of lipid composition in vivo before and after exposure to UV light clearly showed modifications in several skin lipid components; a decrease of ceramide subclass [AP2] and an increase of ceramide subclass [NP2], sodium cholesterol sulphate and squalene (SQ) were detectable. In contrast, VIS/NIR irradiation led to an increase of ceramides [AP2] and SCS, and a decrease of SQ. These results, which are largely comparable for the different skin models investigated in vivo and ex vivo, indicate that radiation exposure in different spectral regions strongly influences radical production in skin and also results in changes in skin lipid composition, which is essential for barrier function.

Elucidating the Skin Delivery of Aglycone and Glycoside Flavonoids: How the Structures Affect Cutaneous Absorption

Flavonoids are bioactive phytochemicals that exhibit protective potential against cutaneous inflammation and photoaging. We selected eight flavonoid aglycones or glycosides to elucidate the chemistry behind their skin absorption capability through experimental and computational approaches. The skin delivery was conducted using nude mouse and pig skins mounted on an in vitro Franz cell assembly. The anti-inflammatory activity was examined using the O₂^•– and elastase inhibition in activated human neutrophils. In the equivalent dose (6 mM) application on nude mouse skin, the skin deposition of naringenin and kaempferol was 0.37 and 0.11 nM/mg, respectively, which was higher than that of the other flavonoids. Both penetrants were beneficial for targeted cutaneous therapy due to their minimal diffusion across the skin. The absorption was generally greater for topically applied aglycones than glycosides. Although naringenin could be classified as a hydrophilic flavonoid, the flexibility of the chiral center in the C ring of this flavanone could lead to better skin transport than the flavonols and flavones with a planar structure. An optimized hydrophilic and lipophilic balance of the flavonoid structure was important for governing the cutaneous delivery. The hydrogen bond acceptor and stratum corneum lipid docking estimated by molecular modeling showed some relationships with the skin deposition. The interaction with cholesteryl sulfate could be a factor for predicting the cutaneous absorption of aglycone flavonoids (correlation coefficient = 0.97). Baicalin (3 µM) showed the highest activity against oxidative burst with an O₂^•– inhibition percentage of 77%. Although naringenin displayed an inhibition efficiency of only 20%, this compound still demonstrated an impressive therapeutic index because of the high absorption. Our data are advantageous to providing the information on the structure–permeation relationship for topically applied flavonoids.

Preparation and in vivo evaluation of lecithin-based microparticles for topical delivery of minoxidil

Minoxidil is widely used for treatment of androgenic alopecia. Commercial products containing minoxidil are usually in solution form. Repeated applications of minoxidil solution can lead to adverse effects such as skin irritation and horniness. The aims of this study were to prepare lecithin-based microparticle in minoxidil solution for enhancement of minoxidil topical delivery and skin protection and evaluate the ability of lecithin on in vitro delivery, in vivo hair growth, and skin trouble improvement compared to commercial minoxidil solution. In in vitro skin permeation study, minoxidil solution containing lecithin microparticle showed higher skin penetration rate and higher retention of drug inside the skin compared to minoxidil solution without lecithin. After topical application of minoxidil solutions with or without lecithin to C57BL/6 mice, minoxidil 5% solution containing lecithin microparticle showed hair re-growth as efficient as commercial product of minoxidil 5% solution. It also significantly improved skin troubles while commercial product presented horny substance and crust formation. Therefore, the lecithin-based microparticle in minoxidil 5% solution has good ability to promote hair growth without adverse effects.

Potential Applications of Phyto-Derived Ceramides in Improving Epidermal Barrier Function

The outer most layer of the skin, the stratum corneum, consists of corneocytes which are coated by a cornified envelope and embedded in a lipid matrix of ordered lamellar structure. It is responsible for the skin barrier function. Ceramides (CERs) are the backbone of the intercellular lipid membranes. Skin diseases such as atopic dermatitis and psoriasis and aged skin are characterized by dysfunctional skin barrier and dryness which are associated with reduced levels of CERs. Previously, the effectiveness of supplementation of synthetic and animal-based CERs in replenishing the depleted natural skin CERs and restoring the skin barrier function have been investigated. Recently, however, the barrier function improving effect of plant-derived CERs has attracted much attention. Phyto-derived CERs (phytoCERs) are preferable due to their assumed higher safety as they are mostly isolated from dietary sources. The beneficial effects of phytoCER-based oral dietary supplements for skin hydration and skin barrier reinforcement have been indicated in several studies involving animal models as well as human subjects. Ingestible dietary supplements containing phytoCERs are also widely available on the market. Nonetheless, little effort has been made to investigate the potential cosmetic applications of topically administered phytoCERs. Therefore, summarizing the foregoing investigations and identifying the gap in the scientific data on plant-derived CERs intended for skin-health benefits are of paramount importance. In this review, an attempt is made to synthesize the information available in the literature regarding the effects of phytoCER-based oral dietary supplements on skin hydration and barrier function with the underlying mechanisms.

A Coarse-Grained Model of Stratum Corneum Lipids: Free Fatty Acids and Ceramide NS

Ceramide (CER)-based biological membranes are used both experimentally and in simulations as simplified model systems of the skin barrier. Molecular dynamics studies have generally focused on simulating preassembled structures using atomistically detailed models of CERs, which limit the system sizes and time scales that can practically be probed, rendering them ineffective for studying particular phenomena, including self-assembly into bilayer and lamellar superstructures. Here, we report on the development of a coarse-grained (CG) model for CER NS, the most abundant CER in human stratum corneum. Multistate iterative Boltzmann inversion is used to derive the intermolecular pair potentials, resulting in a force field that is applicable over a range of state points and suitable for studying ceramide self-assembly. The chosen CG mapping, which includes explicit interaction sites for hydroxyl groups, captures the directional nature of hydrogen bonding and allows for accurate predictions of several key structural properties of CER NS bilayers. Simulated wetting experiments allow the hydrophobicity of CG beads to be accurately tuned to match atomistic wetting behavior, which affects the whole system, since inaccurate hydrophobic character is found to unphysically alter the lipid packing in hydrated lamellar states. We find that CER NS can self-assemble into multilamellar structures, enabling the study of lipid systems more representative of the multilamellar lipid structures present in the skin barrier. The coarse-grained force field derived herein represents an important step in using molecular dynamics to study the human skin barrier, which gives a resolution not available through experiment alone.

Coarse-grain simulations of skin ceramide NS with newly derived parameters clarify structure of melted phase

Ceramides are lipids that are involved in numerous biologically important structures (e.g., the stratum corneum and ceramide-rich platforms) and processes (e.g., signal transduction and membrane fusion), but their behavior is not fully understood. We report coarse-grain force field parameters for N-lignocerylsphingosine (ceramide NS, also known as ceramide 2) that are consistent with the Martini force field. These parameters were optimized for simulations in the gel phase and validated against atomistic simulations. Coarse-grained simulations with our parameters provide areas per lipid, membrane thicknesses, and electron density profiles that are in good agreement with atomistic simulations. Properties of the simulated membranes are compared with available experimental data. The obtained parameters were used to model the phase behavior of ceramide NS as a function of temperature and hydration. At low water content and above the main phase transition temperature, the bilayer melts into an irregular phase, which may correspond to the unstructured melted-chain phase observed in X-ray diffraction experiments. The developed parameters also reproduce the extended conformation of ceramide, which may occur in the stratum corneum. The parameters presented herein will facilitate studies on important complex functional structures such as the uppermost layer of the skin and ceramide-rich platforms in phospholipid membranes.

Skin diseases associated with the depletion of stratum corneum lipids and stratum corneum lipid substitution therapy

The skin is the largest organ of the body, whose main function is to protect the body against the loss of physiologically important components as well as harmful environmental insults. From the inside to the outside, the skin comprises three major structural layers: the hypodermis, the dermis and the epidermis. The epidermis contains four different sublayers, the stratum corneum (SC), stratum granulosum, stratum spinosum and stratum basale, where the barrier function of the skin mainly lies in the outermost layer of the epidermis, the SC. The SC contains corneocytes that are embedded in a lipid matrix existing in the form of lipid bilayers. The lipid bilayers are formed mainly from ceramides, free fatty acids and cholesterol, constitute the only continuous pathway across the SC and are responsible for the barrier function of the skin. However, the depletion or disturbance of SC lipids in the SC leads to a perturbation of the barrier function of the skin, and, conversely, several skin diseases such as psoriasis and atopic dermatitis are associated with the depletion of these SC lipids. Therefore, it is of paramount importance to understand the interrelationship between the depletion of SC lipids and skin diseases as well as factors that affect the composition and organization of SC lipids in order to assess the potential benefit of a direct replacement of the missing SC lipids as a means of treating affected, aged or diseased skin.

The important role of stratum corneum lipids for the cutaneous barrier function

The skin protects the body from unwanted influences from the environment as well as excessive water loss. The barrier function of the skin is located in the stratum corneum (SC). The SC consists of corneocytes embedded in a lipid matrix. This lipid matrix is crucial for the lipid skin barrier function. This paper provides an overview of the reported SC lipid composition and organization mainly focusing on healthy and diseased human skin. In addition, an overview is provided on the data describing the relation between lipid modulations and the impaired skin barrier function. Finally, the use of in vitro lipid models for a better understanding of the relation between the lipid composition, lipid organization and skin lipid barrier is discussed. This article is part of a Special Issue entitled The Important Role of Lipids in the Epidermis and their Role in the Formation and Maintenance of the Cutaneous Barrier. This article is part of a Special Issue entitled The Important Role of Lipids in the Epidermis and their Role in the Formation and Maintenance of the Cutaneous Barrier. Guest Editors: Kenneth R. Feingold and Peter Elias.

Transcriptional profiling of epidermal barrier formation in vitro

BACKGROUND

Barrier function is integral to the health of epithelial tissues. Currently, there is a broad need to develop and improve our knowledge with regard to barrier function for reversal of mild skin irritation and dryness. However, there are few in vitro models that incorporate modulations of both lipids and epidermal differentiation programs for pre-clinical testing to aid in the understanding of barrier health.

OBJECTIVE

We have generated a reconstituted epidermis on a decellularized dermis (DED) and characterized its barrier properties relative to human epidermis in order to determine its utility for modeling barrier formation and repair.

METHODS

We followed the process of epidermal differentiation and barrier formation through immunocytochemistry and transcriptional profiling. We examined barrier functionality through measurements of surface pH, lipid composition, stratum corneum water content, and the ability to demonstrate topical dose-dependent exclusion of surfactant.

RESULTS

Transcriptional profiling of the epidermal model during its formation reveals temporal patterns of gene expression associated with processes regulating barrier function. The profiling is supported by gradual formation and maturation of a stratum corneum and expression of appropriate markers of epidermis development. The model displays a functional barrier and a water gradient between the stratum corneum and viable layers, as determined by confocal Raman spectroscopy. The stratum corneum layer displays a normal acidic pH and an appropriate composition of barrier lipids.

CONCLUSION

The epidermal model demonstrates its utility as an investigative tool for barrier health and provides a window into the transcriptional regulation of multiple aspects of barrier formation.

Studying the penetration of fatty acids into human skin by ex vivo TOF-SIMS imaging

Fatty acids classified as chemical penetration enhancers (CPEs) might cause the fluidization and perturbation of stratum corneum (SC) lipid matrix. The penetration of oleic, linoleic, lauric and capric acids into human skin was studied by time-of-flight secondary ion mass spectrometry (TOF-SIMS) imaging and related to fatty acids enhancing effect on lipophilic model drug tolnaftate penetration into human epidermis and dermis ex vivo. Fatty acid enhancing effect on tolnaftate penetration into human skin was evaluated using Bronaugh-type flow-through diffusion cells. After in vitro penetration studies visualization and spatial localization of fatty acid molecules in human skin were performed using TOF-SIMS. Penetration of oleic, linoleic, lauric and capric acids into human skin was compared to the control skin sections by ion images and intensity profiles. Only oleic acid significantly (P<0.05) enhanced tolnaftate penetration into epidermis (enhancing ratio equal to 1.867). CPE might have no effect on model drug penetration enhancement, but might penetrate itself into the skin.

Breaching the skin barrier--insights from molecular simulation of model membranes

Breaching the skin's barrier function by design is an important strategy for delivering drugs and vaccines to the body. However, while there are many proposed approaches for reversibly breaching the skin barrier, our understanding of the molecular processes involved is still rudimentary. Molecular simulation offers an unprecedented molecular-level resolution with an ability to reproduce molecular and bulk level properties. We review the basis of the molecular simulation methodology and give applications of relevance to the skin lipid barrier, focusing on permeation of molecules and chemical approaches for breaching the lipid barrier by design. The bulk kinetic model based on Fick's Law describing absorption of a drug through skin has been reconciled with statistical mechanical quantities such as the local excess chemical potential and local diffusion coefficient within the membrane structure. Applications of molecular simulation reviewed include investigations of the structure and dynamics of simple models of skin lipids, calculation of the permeability of molecules in simple model membranes, and mechanisms of action of the penetration enhancers, DMSO, ethanol and oleic acid. The studies reviewed illustrate the power and potential of molecular simulation to yield important physical insights, inform and rationalize experimental studies, and to predict structural changes, and kinetic and thermodynamic quantities.

Study of the potential of stratum corneum lipids and exogenous molecules interaction by fluorescence spectroscopy for the estimation of percutaneous penetration

Considering that the skin barrier properties are closely linked to the ceramides composition and conformation within the SC, our work focused on developing a new evaluation criterion in complement of the Log Pow and MW: lipids retentive role within the SC. We developed an in vitro model to study exogenous molecules (Mol) and SC lipids interaction by fluorescence spectroscopy. As ceramides do not fluoresce, fluorescence probes that emit a fluorescence signal in contact with lipidic chains were selected for the study. A protocol was developed based on the exogenous molecule (cosmetic actives) affinity for the SC lipids. A fluorescence criterion (ΔI) was calculated from our results and compared to ex vivo skin penetration measurements realized with a Franz cell device. Our results indicated that polarity seems to be very representative of the ceramide and exogenous molecule interaction for most of the molecules tested. However, the ΔI calculated highlighted the particular interaction of some exogenous molecules with ceramides and their skin distribution. This particular behavior was not initially possible to estimate with the Log Pow and MW. This work aimed to develop a new alternative method to enhance the percutaneous penetration estimation of exogenous molecules for the risk analysis.

A Simulation Study of the Self-Assembly of Coarse-Grained Skin Lipids

Computer simulations are an attractive means by which to probe the self-assembly and molecular level organization of lipids in biological membranes. In this work, we study a simple skin lipid system to demonstrate the ability of the coarse-grained models used for fatty acids, cholesterol, and water to self-assemble, thus validating the models for use in further studies of the complex lipid mixtures found in the outermost layer of the skin. Specifically, the ability of the models to predict the correct self-assembled structures from molecular dynamics simulations is compared against those seen experimentally and from all-atom simulations of preassembled bilayers. The nature of the molecular interactions and their roles in the self-assembly process is elucidated and heuristics for self-assembly established. Additionally, the coarse-grained models have been used to characterize the effect of varying cholesterol composition on bilayer properties and the mechanism of bilayer destabilization by short and long chain fatty acids in the presence of cholesterol.

Bicelles: lipid nanostructured platforms with potential dermal applications

Bicelles emerge as promising membrane models, and because of their attractive combination of lipid composition, small size and morphological versatility, they become new targets in skin research. Bicelles are able to modify skin biophysical parameters and modulate the skin's barrier function, acting to enhance drug penetration. Because of their nanostructured assemblies, bicelles have the ability to penetrate through the narrow intercellular spaces of the stratum corneum of the skin to reinforce its lipid lamellae. The bicelle structure also allows for the incorporation of different molecules that can be carried through the skin layers. All of these characteristics can be modulated by varying the lipid composition and experimental conditions. The remarkable versatility of bicelles is their most important characteristic, which makes their use possible in various fields. This system represents a platform for dermal applications. In this review, an overview of the main properties of bicelles and their effects on the skin are presented.

Application of optical methods to characterize textile materials and their influence on the human skin

The skin is not only the largest organ of the human body, but it is also a barrier to the environment. The major part of the human skin is in constant contact with textile materials. The objective of this study was to characterize textile materials and to investigate their influence on the skin properties. For this purpose, two different textile materials (polyamide and polyester) were objectively characterized by optical coherence tomography and surface structure 3D-profilometry. In addition, subjective textile properties like haptic sensation and stiffness, as tactile characteristics felt by volunteers, were analyzed. The objective textile characteristics and subjective parameters were compared to the barrier properties measured by in vivo laser scanning microscopy . Comparable results were achieved between barrier properties and subjective assessment in relation to the textile characteristics in favor of the polyester fabric. Consequently, the optical method used in dermatology for the analysis of the skin can be applied to characterize and evaluate textile fabrics and their interaction with human skin in vivo.

Dermal and transdermal delivery: prodrugs

Attempts to deliver drugs into and through the skin (dermal and transdermal delivery) have not been very successful because the physicochemical properties of drugs are often not optimal. Prodrugs can be used to optimize those physicochemical properties of drugs and optimize their delivery by transiently masking their polar functional groups. For a drug to cross the rate-limiting barrier to delivery (the stratum corneum) it must dissolve in and cross multiple lipid and aqueous phases within the stratum corneum. Prodrugs can be designed to exhibit increased lipid and aqueous solubilities resulting in increased delivery. In order to identify the optimal prodrugs, they must be evaluated as saturated solutions where their thermodynamic activities are maximal in the solution and in the skin. If prodrugs are evaluated at concentrations less than at saturation, inaccurate conclusions about the optimal physicochemical properties may result. Prodrugs must be designed to optimize both their lipid and aqueous solubilities to optimize their delivery into and through the skin.

The effects of pajama fabrics' water absorption properties on the stratum corneum under mildly cold conditions

BACKGROUND

The interaction of textiles with the skin is a fertile area for research.

OBJECTIVE

The aim of this study was to investigate the effects of clothing fabric on the stratum corneum (SC) under mildly cold conditions.

METHODS

A longitudinal controlled parallel study was designed to investigate the effects of the liquid/moisture absorption properties of pajama fabrics on the SC water content, transepidermal water loss, skin surface acidity (pH), and sebum.

RESULTS

The hygroscopicity of pajama fabrics had significant associations with the SC water content and transepidermal water loss on the skin of the volunteers' backs. Sebum in the hydrophilic cotton group was slightly lower than in the polyester groups and hydrophobic cotton groups. Subjects felt warmer in the hydrophobic groups than in the hydrophilic groups. The hydrophilicity of the fabric also showed an association with overnight urinary free catecholamines.

LIMITATIONS

In this study, detailed components of sebum were not analyzed.

CONCLUSIONS

The hygroscopicity of the fabric may be a key factor influencing SC hydration during daily wear under mildly cold conditions.

Is an orthorhombic lateral packing and a proper lamellar organization important for the skin barrier function?

The lipid organization in the stratum corneum (SC), plays an important role in the barrier function of the skin. SC lipids form two lamellar phases with a predominantly orthorhombic packing. In previous publications a lipid model was presented, referred to as the stratum corneum substitute (SCS), that closely mimics the SC lipid organization and barrier function. Therefore, the SCS serves as a unique tool to relate lipid organization with barrier function. In the present study we examined the effect of the orthorhombic to hexagonal phase transition on the barrier function of human SC and SCS. In addition, the SCS was modified by changing the free fatty acid composition, resulting in a hexagonal packing and perturbed lamellar organization. By measuring the permeability to benzoic acid as function of temperature, Arrhenius plots were constructed from which activation energies were calculated. The results suggest that the change from orthorhombic to hexagonal packing in human SC and SCS, does not have an effect on the permeability. However, the modified SCS revealed an increased permeability to benzoic acid, which we related to its perturbed lamellar organization. Thus, a proper lamellar organization is more crucial for a competent barrier function than the presence of an orthorhombic lateral packing.

Sun-induced changes in stratum corneum function are gender and dose dependent in a Chinese population

Previous studies have demonstrated that UVB radiation changes the epidermal permeability barrier and stratum corneum (SC) hydration. It is well known that sun exposure causes erythema, sunburn and melanoma. However, whether daily sun exposure alters SC integrity and epidermal permeability barrier function is largely unknown, especially in Chinese subjects. In the present study, we assess the SC integrity, SC hydration and epidermal permeability barrier function following various doses of sun exposure. A total of 258 subjects (124 males and 134 females) aged 18-50 years were enrolled. A multifunctional skin physiology monitor (Courage & Khazaka MPA5) was used to measure SC hydration and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) on the forearms. In males, basal TEWL was higher with higher doses of sun exposure than with lower doses and control, whereas in females, basal TEWL was higher with lower doses of sun exposure than with higher doses and control. In the group with higher doses of sun exposure, TEWL in females was significantly lower than that in males. The barrier recovery was faster in females than in males in both control and lower-dose groups. In both males and females, barrier recovery was delayed with higher doses of sun exposure. In males, sun exposure did not alter SC hydration, while in females SC hydration was lower with lower doses of sun exposure as compared with control and higher doses of sun exposure. These results demonstrated that sun-induced changes in SC function and SC hydration vary with gender and the extent of sun exposure.

The microstructure of the stratum corneum lipid barrier: mid-infrared spectroscopic studies of hydrated ceramide:palmitic acid:cholesterol model systems

The current mid-infrared spectroscopic study is a systematic investigation of hydrated stratum corneum lipid barrier model systems composed of an equimolar mixture of a ceramide, free palmitic acid and cholesterol. Four different ceramide molecules (CER NS, CER NP, CER NP-18:1, CER AS) were investigated with regard to their microstructure arrangement in a stratum corneum lipid barrier model system. Ceramide molecules were chosen from the sphingosine and phytosphingosine groups. The main differences in the used ceramide molecules result from their polar head group architecture as well as hydrocarbon chain properties. The mixing properties with cholesterol and palmitic acid are considered. This is feasible by using perdeuterated palmitic acid and proteated ceramides. Both molecules can be monitored separately, within the same experiment, using mid-infrared spectroscopy; no external label is necessary. At physiological relevant temperatures, between 30 and 35 degrees C, orthorhombic as well as hexagonal chain packing of the ceramide molecules is observed. The formation of these chain packings are extremely dependent on lipid hydration, with a decrease in ceramide hydration favouring the formation of orthorhombic hydrocarbon chain packing, as well as temperature. The presented data suggest in specific cases phase segregation in ceramide and palmitic acid rich phases. However, other ceramides like CER NP-18:1 show a rather high miscibility with palmitic acid and cholesterol. For all investigated ternary systems, more or less mixing of palmitic acid with cholesterol is observed. The investigated stratum corneum mixtures exhibit a rich polymorphism from crystalline domains with heterogeneous lipid composition to a "fluid" homogeneous phase. Thus, a single gel phase is not evident for the presented stratum corneum model systems. The study shows, that under skin physiological conditions (pH 5.5, hydrated, 30-35 degrees C) ternary systems composed of an equimolar ratio of ceramides, free palmitic acid and cholesterol may form gel-like domains delimitated by a liquid-crystalline phase boundary. The presented results support the microstructural arrangement of the stratum corneum lipids as suggested by the domain mosaic model.

Basic nanostructure of stratum corneum lipid matrices based on ceramides [EOS] and [AP]: a neutron diffraction study

The goal of this study was to investigate the nanostructure of SC lipid model membranes comprising the most relevant SC lipids such as the unique-structured omega-acylceramide [EOS] in a near natural ratio with neutron diffraction. In models proposed recently the presence of ceramide [EOS] and FFA are necessary for the formation of one of the two existent crystalline lamellar phases of the SC lipids, the long-periodicity phase as well as for the normal barrier function of the SC. The focus of this study was placed on the influence of the FFA BA on the membrane structure and its localization within the membrane based on the ceramides [EOS] and [AP]. The internal nanostructure of such membranes was obtained by Fourier synthesis from the experimental diffraction patterns. The resulting neutron scattering length density profiles showed that the exceptionally long ceramide [EOS] is arranged in a short-periodicity phase created by ceramide [AP] by spanning through the whole bilayer and extending even further into the adjacent bilayer. Specifically deuterated BA allowed us to determine the exact position of this FFA inside this SC lipid model membrane. Furthermore, hydration experiments showed that the presented SC mimic system shows an extremely small intermembrane hydration of approximately 1 A, consequently the headgroups of the neighboring leaflets are positioned close to each other.