3.8. UV-induced Effects

Evaluation of the photoprotective and antioxidant potential of an avobenzone derivative

Solar radiation can cause damage to the skin, and the use of sunscreens is one of the main protective measures. However, photounstable ultraviolet (UV) filters can generate photoproducts and reactive oxygen species (ROS). Adding antioxidants, such as resveratrol, to enhance the action of UV filters in sunscreens is an interesting strategy for reducing the damage caused by UV radiation exposure. However, new compounds must have their stability, safety and efficacy guaranteed. Avobenzone, a commonly used UV filter, stands out as a promising candidate for structural modification to enhance its stability. Its molecular hybridization with other UV filters and antioxidants can lead to safer and more effective compounds. In this study, the photoprotective and antioxidant potential of a derivative of avobenzone, hybridized with resveratrol's molecule, was evaluated using in vitro models of cells in monolayer and reconstructed human skin (RHS). Phototoxic potential was assessed using fibroblasts, while the antioxidant activity was measured using the DCFH2-DA probe in HaCaT keratinocytes and in-house RHS. The derivative exhibited UV absorption and demonstrated photostability. It did not exhibit any phototoxic nor photoreactivity potential. Additionally, it was able to photo stabilize a combination of photounstable UV filters, avobenzone and octyl methoxycinnamate, and to reduce their phototoxic potential. In terms of antioxidant activity, the derivative successfully protected against UVA-induced ROS production in the HaCaT keratinocytes model, showing statistical equivalence to the antioxidant control, quercetin (10 μg/mL). Furthermore, experiments conducted in the RHS model demonstrated a significant reduction of 30.7% in ROS generation compared to the irradiated control. This study demonstrated that structural modifications of avobenzone can lead to the development of a broad spectrum (absorbing UVB and UVA II radiation, as well as a portion of the UVA I radiation), non-phototoxic, non-photoreactive and photostable derivative for sunscreen and anti-aging formulations. This derivative enhances protection against oxidative stress induced by UV radiation and improves the effectiveness of sun protection. In addition to the monolayer model, the use of a standardized in-house RHS model was highly relevant for evaluating the effects of UV radiation and skin aging. This model closely mimics human physiological conditions and enables the testing of new compounds and the investigation of protective mechanisms against skin damage.

Assessment of the photoprotective potential and structural characterization of secondary metabolites of Antarctic fungus Arthrinium sp

Interest in Antarctic fungi has grown due to their resilience in harsh environments, suggesting the presence of valuable compounds from its organisms, such as those presenting photoprotective potential, since this environment suffers the most dangerous UV exposure in the world. Therefore, this research aimed to assess the photoprotective potential of compounds from sustainable marine sources, specifically seaweed-derived fungi from Antarctic continent. These studies led to discovery of photoprotective and antioxidant properties of metabolites from Arthrinium sp., an endophytic fungus from Antarctic brown algae Phaeurus antarcticus. From crude extract, fractions A-I were obtained and compounds 1-6 isolated from E and F fractions, namely 3-Hydroxybenzyl alcohol (1), (-)-orthosporin (2), norlichexanthone (3), anomalin B (4), anomalin A (5), and agonodepside B (6). Compounds 1, 2, and 6 were not previously reported in Arthrinium. Fraction F demonstrated excellent absorbance in both UVA and UVB regions, while compound 6 exhibited lower UVB absorbance, possibly due to synergistic effects. Fraction F and compound 6 displayed photostability and were non-phototoxic to HaCaT cells. They also exhibited antioxidant activity by reducing intracellular ROS production induced by UVA in keratinocyte monolayers and reconstructed human skin models (resulting in 34.6% and 30.2% fluorescence reduction) and did not show irritation potential in HET-CAM assay. Thus, both are promising candidates for use in sunscreens. It is noted that Fraction F does not require further purification, making it advantageous, although clinical studies are necessary to confirm its potential applicability for sunscreen formulations.

Non-animal approaches for photoallergenicity safety assessment: Needs and perspectives for the toxicology for the 21st century

Certain chemicals and/or their byproducts are photoactivated by UV/VIS and trigger a dermal allergenic response, clinically recognized as photoallergic contact dermatitis (PACD). It is important to identify the chemicals which are potentially photoallergenic, not only for establishing the correct differential diagnosis between PACD and other photodermatoses, but also as causative agents which should be avoided as a preventative measure. Moreover, materials with photoallergenic properties need to be correctly identified to allow thorough safety assessments for their use in finished products (e.g. cosmetics). Development of methods for predicting photoallergenicity potential of chemicals has advanced at slow pace in recent years. To date, there are no validated methods for photosensitisation potential of chemicals for regulatory purposes, although it remains a required endpoint in some regions. The purpose of this review is to explore the mechanisms potentially involved in the photosensitisation process and discuss the methods available in the literature for identification of photosensitisers. The review also explores the possibilities of further research investment required to develop human-relevant new approach methodologies (NAMs) and next generation risk assessment (NGRA) approaches, considering the current perspectives and needs of the Toxicology for the 21st Century.

A proposed NAM-based tiered phototoxicity testing and human risk assessment framework for agrochemicals

Phototoxicity testing is required by European regulations for agrochemicals with UV/visible molar extinction/absorption coefficient (MEC) higher than 10 L x mol^-1 x cm^-1 in the 290-700 nm wavelength range. Furthermore, regulations identify a need of considering human exposure in case of positive results. While in vitro OECD test guidelines are available for hazard characterisation, there is no guidance on how to utilise positive results in human exposure risk assessments. Our goal was to take a first step towards developing a NAM based tiered testing approach and a framework for non-dietary acute human dermal risk assessment for phototoxicity to agrochemicals. The proposed framework can be divided into a few steps: 1) use the OECD updated MEC values of 1000 L x mol^-1 x cm^-1 as trigger for phototoxicity testing; 2) establish a reference concentration (RfC) from in vitro phototoxicity studies using BMC approach, 3) estimate potential exposure to skin, target organ for phototoxicity, using EFSA exposure models, product specific labels and skin penetration values, and 4) phototoxicity risk assessment; 5) refinement to RfC and/or exposure estimates can be considered. Finally, case studies of a nematicide and an herbicide active substance are provided to illustrate the proposed framework.

Effects of UV-filter Photostabilizers in the Photostability and Phototoxicity of Vitamin A Palmitate Combined with Avobenzone and Octyl Methoxycinnamate

A challenge for cosmetic and dermatologic products is to develop new high-performance and safer anti-aging products based on new compounds to enhance the stability of retinyl palmitate combined with broad-spectrum UV-filters. Consequently, the aim of this work was to evaluate the effects of three often used avobenzone photostabilizers-ethylhexyl methoxycrylene (EHMCR), tris(tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol) citrate (TTMHP) and tris-biphenyl triazine (TBPT)-on the photostability and phototoxicity of the combination of avobenzone (AVO), octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC) and retinyl palmitate (RP). The photostability studies were performed by the exposure of formulations to UVA radiation. The phototoxicity was evaluated by the 3T3 neutral red uptake phototoxic assay (OECD TG 432). The addition of EHMCR, TBPT, and TTMHP in the formulations, with/or without RP, improved the photostability of AVO and RP, but EHMCR was the most effective in stabilizing RP. In the phototoxicity assay, the combinations AVO-OMC containing or not RP showed phototoxic potential. EHMCR and TTMHP reduced the phototoxicity of the combination AVO-OMC, whereas EHMCR also decreased the phototoxicity of the combination containing RP. Therefore, EHMCR might be used to the photostabilization of formulations of AVO-OMC with/or not RP, while TTMHP can be added to this photounstable UV-filter combination.

Fucoxanthin for Topical Administration, a Phototoxic vs. Photoprotective Potential in a Tiered Strategy Assessed by In Vitro Methods

Fucoxanthin possesses a well-described antioxidant activity that might be useful for human skin photoprotection. However, there is a lack of scientific information regarding its properties when applied onto human skin. Thus, the objective of the present study was to assess the photoprotective and phototoxicity potential of fucoxanthin based on its ultraviolet (UVB 280-320 nm; UVA 320-400 nm) and visible (VIS 400-700 nm) absorption, photostability, phototoxicity in 3T3 mouse fibroblast culture vs. full-thickness reconstructed human skin (RHS), and its ability to inhibit reactive oxygen species formation that is induced by UVA on HaCaT keratinocytes. Later, we evaluated the antioxidant properties of the sunscreen formulation plus 0.5% fucoxanthin onto RHS to confirm its bioavailability and antioxidant potential through the skin layers. The compound was isolated from the alga Desmarestia anceps. Fucoxanthin, despite presenting chemical photo-instability (dose 6 J/cm2: 35% UVA and 21% VIS absorbance reduction), showed acceptable photodegradation (dose 27.5 J/cm2: 5.8% UVB and 12.5% UVA absorbance reduction) when it was added to a sunscreen at 0.5% (w/v). In addition, it increased by 72% of the total sunscreen UV absorption spectra, presenting UV-booster properties. Fucoxanthin presented phototoxic potential in 3T3 fibroblasts (mean photo effect 0.917), but it was non-phototoxic in the RHS model due to barrier function that was provided by the stratum corneum. In addition, it showed a significant inhibition of ROS formation at 0.01% (p < 0.001), in HaCat, and in a sunscreen at 0.5% (w/v) (p < 0.001), in RHS. In conclusion, in vitro results showed fucoxanthin protective potential to the skin that might contribute to improving the photoprotective potential of sunscreens in vivo.

Spirulina, Palmaria Palmata, Cichorium Intybus, and Medicago Sativa extracts in cosmetic formulations: an integrated approach of in vitro toxicity and in vivo acceptability studies

Background/Aims: The selection of suitable raw materials in the cosmetic research and development is a key point, not only in order to obtain the expected results but also to avoid undesirable side effects. This study evaluated the in vitro toxicity potential of four different plant extracts and their in vivo acceptability studies. Methods: Spirulina, Palmaria palmata, Cichorium intybus and Medicago sativa extracts were analysed alone or in combination and added in cosmetic formulations. The in vitro toxicity evaluation, Hen's Egg Chorioallantoic Membrane Test (HET-CAM) and 3T3 NRU phototoxicity test were performed to evaluate in vitro potential ocular irritation and photo safety, respectively. Twenty subjects were enrolled in the acceptability studies, who were evaluated for the absence of harmful effects of the formulation by visual assessment and by transepidermal water loss, a biophysical technique, for 30 days. Results: HET-CAM assay showed that the studied extracts added to a gel-cream formulation had no irritant potential. In addition, the combination of Palmaria palmata, alfalfa and chicory extracts did not show phototoxic potential in vitro. Acceptability studies showed that the formulation containing the four extracts combined did not provoke any transepidermal water loss (TEWL) alteration, sensory irritation or erythema in the forearms for the period of analysis. Conclusion: The studied active ingredients, alone or in combination, present no cytotoxicity potential and when added to a gel-cream formulation had no irritant potential in vitro. These results predicting no harmful effects were confirmed in the acceptability tests, which showed no alteration on skin barrier function and no report of irritation perception of sign of erythema, suggesting the potential of these extracts for the development of safe cosmetic products.

The EpiSkin phototoxicity assay (EPA): development of an in vitro tiered strategy using 17 reference chemicals to predict phototoxic potency

The aim of the study was to investigate the ability of human reconstructed epidermis EpiSkin(LM) to identify the phototoxic potency of topically or systemically applied chemicals (EPA: EpiSkin phototoxicity assay). Three classes, according to their available human phototoxic potential, were evaluated: systemic phototoxic compounds, topical phototoxic chemicals and non-phototoxic compounds. Non-cytotoxic concentrations of chemicals were applied topically or directly added to the underlying culture medium in order to mimic a systemic-like administration. Following treatment, tissues were exposed to non-cytotoxic dose of UVA (50 J cm(-2)). Cell viability and pro-inflammatory mediators (IL-1alpha) were investigated 22 h after UVA exposure. Our results show that the phototoxic potential of chemicals can be determined using cell viability combined with inflammatory mediator measurements (cytokine IL-1alpha) in a 3-D epidermis model. Moreover, the EPA was able to discriminate efficiently between phototoxic and non-phototoxic products. Furthermore, the EPA is sensitive to the administration route in the prediction of the phototoxic potency of the tested chemical. Differences observed between the two routes of administration (topical or systemic-like) may be linked in part to chemicals bioavailability which depends on specific penetration potential, epidermis barrier function and also on keratinocytes absorption/metabolization processes. Results were very promising and showed a very good sensitivity (92.3%) and an excellent specificity (100%) with an overall accuracy of 94.1%. The performances of the EPA showed that the EpiSkin(LM) model is an interesting tool able to integrate decision-making processes to address the question of phototoxicity linked to the application site.