Antioxidants as stabilizers of UV filters: an example for the UV-B filter octylmethoxycinnamate

Environmental implications and nanotechnological advances in octocrylene-enriched sunscreen formulations: A comprehensive review

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation is a major contributor to skin aging, cancer, and other detrimental health effects. Sunscreens containing FDA-approved UV filters, like avobenzone, offer protection but suffer from photodegradation and potential phototoxicity. Encapsulation, antioxidants, and photostabilizers are strategies employed to combat these drawbacks. Octocrylene, an organic UV filter, utilizes nanotechnology to enhance sun protection factor (SPF). This review examines recent literature on octocrylene-enriched sunscreens, exploring the interplay between environmental impact, nanotechnological advancements, and clinical trial insights. A critical focus is placed on the environmental consequences of sunscreen use, particularly the potential hazards UV filters pose to marine ecosystems. Research in the Mediterranean Sea suggests bacterial sensitivity to these filters, raising concerns about their integration into the food chain. This review aims to guide researchers in developing effective strategies for photostabilization of UV filters. By combining encapsulation, photostabilizers, and antioxidants, researchers can potentially reduce phototoxic effects and contribute to developing more environmentally friendly sunscreens.

Disrupting effects of the emerging contaminant octylmethoxycinnamate (OMC) on human umbilical artery relaxation

Cardiovascular diseases (CVD) represent the number one cause of death worldwide. The vascular endothelium may play a role in the pathophysiology of CVD diseases. Octylmethoxycinnamate (OMC) is a UV-B filter (CAS number: 5466-77-3) widely used worldwide in numerous personal care products, including sunscreens, daily creams, and makeup. This UV-B filter is considered an endocrine disruptor. Therefore, this investigation aimed to evaluate the direct effects of OMC in human umbilical arteries (HUAs) with endothelium and the possible mechanisms involved in the response. The results demonstrated that OMC exerts a rapid (non-genomic) and endothelium-dependent arterial relaxant effect on HUAs previously contracted with serotonin (5-HT) and Histamine (His). On the other hand, when HUAs were contracted with potassium chloride (KCl), the relaxing effect was only observed in HUAs without endothelium, and it appeared to be inhibited in HUAs with endothelium. Thus, the vasorelaxant effect of OMC depends on the endothelium and depends on the contractile agent used, suggesting that OMC may act through different signaling pathways. Furthermore, computational modulation studies, corroborated the binding of OMC to all the proteins under investigation (eNOS, COX-2, ET-1, and TxA2), with higher affinity for COX-2. In summary, the vascular effect of OMC may involve activating different pathways, i.e., acting through the NO pathway, COX pathway, or activating the endothelin-1 pathway.

Influence of Henna Extracts on Static and Dynamic Adsorption of Sodium Dodecyl Sulfate and Residual Oil Recovery from Quartz Sand

The application of surfactant flooding for enhanced oil recovery (EOR) promotes hydrocarbon recovery through reduction of oil-water interfacial tension and alteration of oil-wet rock wettability into the water-wet state. Unfortunately, surfactant depletion in porous media, due to surfactant molecule adsorption and retention, adversely affects oil recovery, thus increasing the cost of the surfactant flooding process. Chemical-based materials are normally used as inhibitors or sacrificial agents to minimize surfactant adsorption, but they are quite expensive and not environmentally friendly. Plant-based materials (henna extracts) are far more sustainable because they are obtained from natural sources. However, there is limited research on the application of henna extracts as inhibitors to reduce dynamic adsorption of the surfactant in porous media and improve oil recovery from such media. Thus, henna extracts were introduced as an eco-friendly and low-cost sacrificial agent for minimizing the static and dynamic adsorption of sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) onto quartz sand in this study. Results showed that the extent of surfactant adsorption was inversely proportional to the henna extract concentration, and the adsorption of the henna extract onto the quartz surface was a multilayer adsorption that followed the Freundlich isotherm model. Precisely, the henna extract adsorption on quartz sand is in the range of 3.12-4.48 mg/g (for static adsorption) and 5.49-6.73 mg/g (for dynamic adsorption), whereas the SDS adsorption on quartz sand was obtained as 2.11 and 4.79 mg/g at static and dynamic conditions, respectively. In the presence of 8000 mg/L henna extract, SDS static and dynamic adsorption was significantly reduced by 64 and 82%, respectively. At the same conditions, the residual oil recovery increased by 9.2% over normal surfactant flooding. The study suggests that the use of henna extracts as a sacrificial agent during SDS flooding could result in the reduction of static and dynamic adsorption of surfactant molecules on quartz sand, thus promoting hydrocarbon recovery from sandstone formations.

First In Vivo Insights on the Effects of Tempol-Methoxycinnamate, a New UV Filter, as Alternative to Octyl Methoxycinnamate, on Zebrafish Early Development

The demand for organic UV filters as active components in sunscreen products has rapidly risen over the last century, as people have gradually realized the hazards of overexposure to UV radiation. Their extensive usage has resulted in their ubiquitous presence in different aquatic matrices, representing a potential threat to living organisms. In this context, the need to replace classic UV filters such as octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC), one of the most popular UV filters reported to be a potential pollutant of aquatic ecosystems, with more environmentally friendly ones has emerged. In this study, using zebrafish, the first in vivo results regarding the effect of exposure to tempol-methoxycinnamate (TMC), a derivative of OMC, are reported. A comparative study between TMC and OMC was performed, analyzing embryos exposed to similar TMC and OMC concentrations, focusing on morphological and molecular changes. While both compounds seemed not to affect hatching and embryogenesis, OMC exposure caused an increase in endoplasmic reticulum (ER) stress response genes, according to increased eif2ak3, ddit3, nrf2, and nkap mRNA levels and in oxidative stress genes, as observed from modulation of the sod1, sod2, gpr, and trx mRNA levels. On the contrary, exposure to TMC led to reduced toxicity, probably due to the presence of the nitroxide group in the compound's molecular structure responsible for antioxidant activity. In addition, both UV filters were docked with estrogen and androgen receptors where they acted differently, in agreement with the molecular analysis that showed a hormone-like activity for OMC but not for TMC. Overall, the results indicate the suitability of TMC as an alternative, environmentally safer UV filter.

Antioxidants in Sunscreens: Which and What For?

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation promotes the generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and nitrogen species (RNS), resulting in skin damage. Cosmetic industries have adopted a strategy to incorporate antioxidants in sunscreen formulations to prevent or minimize UV-induced oxidative damage, boost photoprotection effectiveness, and mitigate skin photoaging. Many antioxidants are naturally derived, mainly from terrestrial plants; however, marine organisms have been increasingly explored as a source of new potent antioxidant molecules. This work aims to characterize the frequency of the use of antioxidants in commercial sunscreens. Photoprotective formulations currently marketed in parapharmacies and pharmacies were analyzed with respect to the composition described on the label. As a result, pure compounds with antioxidant activity were found. The majority of sunscreen formulations contained antioxidants, with vitamin E and its derivatives the most frequent. A more thorough analysis of these antioxidants is also provided, unveiling the top antioxidant ingredients found in sunscreens. A critical appraisal of the scientific evidence regarding their effectiveness is also performed. In conclusion, this work provides an up-to-date overview of the use of antioxidants in commercial sunscreens for a better understanding of the advantages associated with their use in photoprotective formulations.

UV-B filter octylmethoxycinnamate-induced vascular endothelial disruption on rat aorta: In silico and in vitro approach

Throughout human life, an extensive and varied range of emerging environmental contaminants, called endocrine disruptors (EDCs), cause adverse health effects, including in the cardiovascular (CV) system. Cardiovascular diseases (CVD) are worryingly one of the leading causes of all mortality and mobility worldwide. The UV-B filter octylmethoxycinnamate (also designated octinoxate, or ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (CAS number: 5466-77-3)) is an EDC widely present in all personal care products. However, to date, there are no studies evaluating the OMC-induced effects on vasculature using animal models to improve human cardiovascular health. This work analysed the effects of OMC on rat aorta vasculature and explored the modes of action implicated in these effects. Our results indicated that OMC relaxes the rat aorta by endothelium-dependent mechanisms through the signaling pathways of cyclic nucleotides and by endothelium-independent mechanisms involving inhibition of L-Type voltage-operated Ca²⁺ channels (L-Type VOCC). Overall, OMC toxicity on rat aorta may produce hypotension via vasodilation due to excessive NO release and blockade of L-Type VOCC. Moreover, the OMC-induced endothelial dysfunction may also occur by promoting the endothelial release of endothelin-1. Therefore, our findings demonstrate that exposure to OMC alters the reactivity of the rat aorta and highlight that long-term OMC exposure may increase the risk of human CV diseases.

UV-B Filter Octylmethoxycinnamate Is a Modulator of the Serotonin and Histamine Receptors in Human Umbilical Arteries

Every day, people use personal care products containing UV filters. Although their use initially showed a protective role, toxicity is a concern for human health as several UV filters are endocrine-disrupting chemicals (EDCs). Exposure to EDCs may induce cardiovascular diseases and can affect the health of sensitive people, such as pregnant women. Currently, the world’s most widely used UV-B filter is octylmethoxycinnamate (OMC), an EDC. However, the disruptive effects on pregnant women are little known. The present work proposed to understand how long-term exposure to OMC affects vascular homeostasis. Endothelium-denuded human umbilical artery (HUA) rings were incubated in an organ bath system. Long-term effects of exposure to OMC (0.001–50 μmol/L) were evaluated on the contractile responses of HUA to the application of the contractile agents, serotonin (5-HT) and histamine (Hist). To investigate in more detail the vascular mode of action of OMC, through which it impairs the vascular homeostasis of HUA, the activity and expression of different 5-HT and Hist-receptors involved in contractility processes were studied. Our findings pointed out an increase in the reactivity of HUA to 5-HT and Hist due to OMC exposure. These alterations in reactivity may be precursors of preeclampsia development and/or gestational hypertension.

Measurement of the Population of Electrosprayed Deprotomers of Coumaric Acids Using UV-Vis Laser Photodissociation Spectroscopy

The measurement of deprotonation sites in multifunctional molecules following electrospray ionization is important to better inform a wide range of spectroscopic and photophysical studies that use electrospray to prepare molecular species for study in the gas phase. We demonstrate that low-resolution UV-vis laser photodissociation spectroscopy can be applied in situ to identify the deprotomers of three coumaric acids, trans-para-coumaric acid (CMA), trans-caffeic acid (CA), and trans-ferulic acid (FA), formed via electrospray. Electronic absorption spectra of the deprotonated coumaric acids are recorded via photodepletion and photofragmentation following electrospray from solutions of ethanol and acetonitrile. By comparing the experimental spectra to wave function theory calculations, we are able to confirm the presence of phenoxide and carboxylate deprotomers upon electrospray for all three coumaric acids, when sprayed from both protic and aprotic solvents. Ratios of the phenoxide:carboxylate deprotomers are obtained by generating summed theoretical absorption spectra that reproduce the experimental spectra. We find that choice of electrospray solvent has little effect on the ratio of deprotomers obtained for deprotonated CMA and CA but has a greater impact for FA. Our results are in excellent agreement with previous work conducted on deprotonated CMA using IR spectroscopy and demonstrate that UV photodissociation spectroscopy of electrosprayed ions has potential as a diagnostic tool for identifying deprotomeric species.

UV-B filter octylmethoxycinnamate impaired the main vasorelaxant mechanism of human umbilical artery

Personal care products (PCPs) are a group of diverse substances widely used daily for health, beauty, and cleanliness. More than 90% of all PCPs contain the UV-B filter octylmethoxycinnamate (OMC) as a protective function, however, their safety has recently been questioned. The purpose of the present work was to understand how the long-term exposure of UV-filter OMC, used daily by pregnant women, disrupts their vascular homeostasis, altering vascular responses of proteins and channels involved in contractile processes. The long-term effects of 24 h of exposure to OMC (1, 10, and 50 μmol/L) were evaluated on contractile responses of human umbilical arteries (HUA) to serotonin and potassium chloride. Since OMC altered vascular homeostasis of arteries, its vascular mode of action was explored in more detail through the analysis of the activity of cGMP and Ca²⁺-channels, two pathways involved in their relaxation and contraction, respectively. Our findings showed that long-term exposure of UV-filter OMC impaired the main vasorelaxant mechanism of HUA, once OMC altered the vasorelaxant response pattern of sodium nitroprusside and nifedipine. Results also showed that long-term exposure to OMC induced a decreased vasorelaxation response on HUA due to an interference with the NO/sGC/cGMP/PKG pathway. Moreover, OMC seems to modulate the L-type Ca²⁺ channels, the BKCa 1.1 α-subunit channels, and the PKG. Overall, since OMC compromises the vascular homeostasis of pregnant women it can be an inductor of pregnancy hypertensive disorders.

Photoprotective and Inhibitory Activity of Tyrosinase in Extract and Fractions of Terminalia catappa L

BACKGROUND: Chronic exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation causes various skin damages. One of the most significant risks to skin occurrence is cancer and photoaging. Recent strategies for photoprotection have included incorporating natural sunscreens and antityrosinase. AIM: This study aimed to determine the sun protection factor (SPF) and inhibitory activity of tyrosinase of the extract and fractions of leaves of Terminalia catappa Linn. METHOD: The dried leaves were macerated with 96% ethanol and fractionated using n-hexane, ethyl acetate, and water. The extract and fractions were screened for their phytochemical profile, and tyrosinase inhibitory activity was evaluated and expressed as IC50. The photoprotective activity of extract and fractions were measured by a UV spectrophotometric. RESULTS: Among the tested samples, the ethyl acetate fraction showed ultraprotection on erythema transmission rate (%TE), sunblock on pigmentation transmission (%TP), and minimum protection on SPF. Ethyl acetate fraction showed the highest activity to inhibit tyrosinase (IC50 was 50.54±2.37 μg/mL). The phytochemical analysis of ethyl acetate fraction revealed the presence of phenolic and flavonoid compounds. CONCLUSION: This study’s findings revealed a higher tyrosinase inhibitor and sun protection capacity of ethyl acetate fraction of leaves of T. catappa and suitable to develop as a cosmetic agent.

Sunscreens Containing Cyclodextrin Inclusion Complexes for Enhanced Efficiency: A Strategy for Skin Cancer Prevention

Unprotected exposure of skin to solar ultraviolet radiation (UVR) may damage the DNA of skin cells and can lead to skin cancer. Sunscreens are topical formulations used to protect skin against UVR. The active ingredients of sunscreens are UV filters that absorb, scatter, and/or reflect UVR. Preventing the formation of free radicals and repairing DNA damages, natural antioxidants are also added to sunscreens as a second fold of protection against UVR. Antioxidants can help stabilise these formulations during the manufacturing process and upon application on skin. However, UV filters and antioxidants are both susceptible to degradation upon exposure to sunlight and oxygen. Additionally, due to their poor water solubility, natural antioxidants are challenging to formulate and exhibit limited penetration and bioavailability in the site of action (i.e., deeper skin layers). Cyclodextrins (CDs) are cyclic oligosaccharides that are capable of forming inclusion complexes with poorly soluble drugs, such as antioxidants. In this review, we discuss the use of CDs inclusion complexes to enhance the aqueous solubility of antioxidants and chemical UV filters and provide a protective shield against degradative factors. The role of CDs in providing a controlled drug release profile from sunscreens is also discussed. Finally, incorporating CDs inclusion complexes into sunscreens has the potential to increase their efficiency and hence improve their skin cancer prevention.

Effects of UV-filter Photostabilizers in the Photostability and Phototoxicity of Vitamin A Palmitate Combined with Avobenzone and Octyl Methoxycinnamate

A challenge for cosmetic and dermatologic products is to develop new high-performance and safer anti-aging products based on new compounds to enhance the stability of retinyl palmitate combined with broad-spectrum UV-filters. Consequently, the aim of this work was to evaluate the effects of three often used avobenzone photostabilizers-ethylhexyl methoxycrylene (EHMCR), tris(tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol) citrate (TTMHP) and tris-biphenyl triazine (TBPT)-on the photostability and phototoxicity of the combination of avobenzone (AVO), octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC) and retinyl palmitate (RP). The photostability studies were performed by the exposure of formulations to UVA radiation. The phototoxicity was evaluated by the 3T3 neutral red uptake phototoxic assay (OECD TG 432). The addition of EHMCR, TBPT, and TTMHP in the formulations, with/or without RP, improved the photostability of AVO and RP, but EHMCR was the most effective in stabilizing RP. In the phototoxicity assay, the combinations AVO-OMC containing or not RP showed phototoxic potential. EHMCR and TTMHP reduced the phototoxicity of the combination AVO-OMC, whereas EHMCR also decreased the phototoxicity of the combination containing RP. Therefore, EHMCR might be used to the photostabilization of formulations of AVO-OMC with/or not RP, while TTMHP can be added to this photounstable UV-filter combination.

Nano-Structured Lignin as Green Antioxidant and UV Shielding Ingredient for Sunscreen Applications

Green, biocompatible, and biodegradable antioxidants represent a milestone in cosmetic and cosmeceutical applications. Lignin is the most abundant polyphenol in nature, recovered as a low-cost waste from the pulp and paper industry and biorefinery. This polymer is characterized by beneficial physical and chemical properties which are improved at the nanoscale level due to the emergence of antioxidant and UV shielding activities. Here we review the use of lignin nanoparticles in cosmetic and cosmeceutical applications, focusing on sunscreen and antiaging formulations. Advances in the technology for the preparation of lignin nanoparticles are described highlighting structure activity relationships.

UV-B Filter Octylmethoxycinnamate Alters the Vascular Contractility Patterns in Pregnant Women with Hypothyroidism

Increasing evidence relating the exposure and/or bioaccumulation of endocrine-disrupting compounds (EDCs) with cardiovascular system are arising. Octylmethoxycinnamate (OMC) is the most widely used UV-B filter and as EDC interacts with TH receptors. However, their effects on thyroid diseases during pregnancy remain unknown. The purpose of this work was to assess the short- and long-term effects of OMC on arterial tonus of pregnant women with hypothyroidism. To elucidate this, human umbilical artery (HUA) rings without endothelium were used to explore the vascular effects of OMC by arterial and cellular experiments. The binding energy and the modes of interaction of the OMC into the active center of the TSHR and THRα were analyzed by molecular docking studies. Our results indicated that OMC altered the contractility patterns of HUA contracted with serotonin, histamine and KCl, possibly due to an interference with serotonin and histamine receptors or an involvement of the Ca²⁺ channels. The molecular docking analysis show that OMC compete with T₃ for the binding center of THRα. Taken together, these findings pointed out to alterations in HUA reactivity as result of OMC-exposure, which may be involved in the development and increased risk of cardiovascular diseases.

On a Beam of Light: Photoprotective Activities of the Marine Carotenoids Astaxanthin and Fucoxanthin in Suppression of Inflammation and Cancer

Every day, we come into contact with ultraviolet radiation (UVR). If under medical supervision, small amounts of UVR could be beneficial, the detrimental and hazardous effects of UVR exposure dictate an unbalance towards the risks on the risk-benefit ratio. Acute and chronic effects of ultraviolet-A and ultraviolet-B involve mainly the skin, the immune system, and the eyes. Photodamage is an umbrella term that includes general phototoxicity, photoaging, and cancer caused by UVR. All these phenomena are mediated by direct or indirect oxidative stress and inflammation and are strictly connected one to the other. Astaxanthin (ASX) and fucoxanthin (FX) are peculiar marine carotenoids characterized by outstanding antioxidant properties. In particular, ASX showed exceptional efficacy in counteracting all categories of photodamages, in vitro and in vivo, thanks to both antioxidant potential and activation of alternative pathways. Less evidence has been produced about FX, but it still represents an interesting promise to prevent the detrimental effect of UVR. Altogether, these results highlight the importance of digging into the marine ecosystem to look for new compounds that could be beneficial for human health and confirm that the marine environment is as much as full of active compounds as the terrestrial one, it just needs to be more explored.

Plant Complexity and Cosmetic Innovation

Plants have been used in cosmetic products since ancient times and are the subject of scientific investigation even nowadays. During the years, a deeper understanding of both the behavior of skin and of plants have become available drawing increasingly complex pictures. Plants are complex organisms that produce different metabolites responding to the environment they live in. Applied to the skin, phytomolecules interact with skin cells and affect the skin well-being and appearance. Ethnobotanical studies on the one hand and physico-chemical analyses on the other have pictured a rich inventory of plants with potential to enrich modern cosmetic products.