A novel water-based anti-aging suncare formulation provides multifaceted protection and repair against environmental aggressors: evidence from in vitro, ex vivo, and clinical studies

Clinically Actionable Topical Strategies for Addressing the Hallmarks of Skin Aging: A Primer for Aesthetic Medicine Practitioners

In this narrative review, we sought to provide a comprehensive overview of the mechanisms underlying cutaneous senescence, framed by the twelve traditional hallmarks of aging. These include genomic instability, telomere attrition, epigenetic alterations, loss of proteostasis, impaired macroautophagy, deregulated nutrient sensing, mitochondrial dysfunction, cellular senescence, stem cell exhaustion, altered intercellular communication, chronic inflammation, and dysbiosis. We also examined how topical interventions targeting these hallmarks can be integrated with conventional aesthetic medicine techniques to enhance skin rejuvenation. The potential of combining targeted topical therapies against the aging hallmarks with minimally invasive procedures represents a significant advancement in aesthetic medicine, offering personalized and effective strategies to combat skin aging. The reviewed evidence paves the way for future advancements and underscores the transformative potential of integrating scientifically validated interventions targeted against aging hallmarks into traditional aesthetic practices.

Development of multifunctional sunscreens: Evaluation of physico-mechanical and film-forming properties

The exposome consists of several factors such as solar radiation and pollution, which can provoke skin damage and lead to premature skin aging. Thus, the use of multifunctional sunscreens is critical in order to prevent this damage. In addition, film formation is very important to reach the expected SPF. Within this context, the objective of the present study was to develop and evaluate the in vivo SPF, sensory, physico-mechanical, and film-forming properties of sunscreens containing a biopolymer from Tara and red algae. A clinical study of the film-forming effect and of skin hydration was performed by instrumental measurements and by biophysical and skin imaging techniques. The SPF of both formulations, with or without the biopolymer, was 45.6. This result was 10.09% higher than expected. higher than expected. However, the sunscreen added to the biopolymer showed better sensory and texture properties, significantly increased skin hydration and reduced transepidermal water loss. The film-forming property was observed by the analysis of Reflectance Confocal Microscopy images 2, 4, and 6 h after formulation application, and this result was more pronounced for the sunscreen added to the biopolymer. Thus, the film-forming property of the biopolymer was important for prolonging the skin barrier function due to film formation and to obtain more effective and multifunctional sunscreens that provide longer protection.

Sun exposure, a relevant exposome factor in acne patients and how photoprotection can improve outcomes

BACKGROUND

Acne pathophysiology includes a complex interaction among inflammatory mediators, hyperseborrhea, alteration of keratinization and follicular colonization by Propionibacterium acnes.

AIMS

To describe the impact of the exposome on acne and how photoprotection can improve outcomes.

METHODS

A narrative review of the literature was carried out; searches with Google Scholar and Pubmed from January 1992 to November 2022 were performed. The keywords used were "acne," "sunscreens," "photoprotection," "cosmetics," "cosmeceuticals," "pathogenesis," "etiology," "exposome," "sunlight," "stress," "lack of sleep," "diet," "postinflammatory hyperpigmentation," "pollution," "exposome," "ultraviolet radiation," and "visible light."

RESULTS

Environmental factors such as solar radiation, air pollution, tobacco consumption, psychological stress, diverse microorganisms, nutrition, among others, can trigger or worsen acne. Solar radiation can temporarily improve lesions. However, it can induce proinflammatory and profibrotic responses, and produce post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and/or post-inflammatory erythema. While photoprotection is widely recommended to acne patients, only four relevant studies were found. Sunscreens can significantly improve symptomatology or enhance treatment and can prevent post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Furthermore, they can provide camouflage and improve quality of life. Based on acne pathogenesis, optimal sunscreens should have emollient, antioxidant and sebum controlling properties.

CONCLUSIONS

The exposome and solar radiation can trigger or worsen acne. UV light can induce post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation/erythema, and can initiate flares. The use of specifically formulated sunscreens could enhance adherence to topical or systemic therapy, camouflage lesions (tinted sunscreens), decrease inflammation, and reduce the incidence of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation/erythema.

Recent Updates on Nanocosmeceutical Skin Care and Anti-Aging Products

Nanotechnology is an innovative area of science that deals with things smaller than 100 nanometers. The influence of nanotechnology in the cosmetic industry is overwhelming since it can enhance the properties attained by the particles at the nano level which includes color, solubility, etc, and also promotes the bioavailability of API. A plethora of nanomaterials can be employed in cosmetics including organic and inorganic nanoparticles. Unlike orthodox carriers, they facilitate easy penetration of the product into the skin and thereby increasing the stability and allowing a controlled drug release so that they can permeate deeper into the skin and start revitalizing it. Nanomaterials rejuvenate the skin by forming an occlusive barrier to inhibit the loss of water from the skin's surface and thereby moisturize the skin. Nano-cosmeceuticals are used to provide better protection against UV radiation, facilitate deeper skin penetration, and give long-lasting effects. Although they still have some safety concerns, hence detailed characterization or risk assessments are required to fulfill the standard safety requirements. In this review, an attempt is made to make a brief overview of various nanocosmeceutical skincare and anti-aging products.

Design and development of topical liposomal formulations in a regulatory perspective

The skin is the absorption site for drug substances intended to treat loco-regional diseases, although its barrier properties limit the permeation of drug molecules. The growing knowledge of the skin structure and its physiology have supported the design of innovative nanosystems (e.g. liposomal systems) to improve the absorption of poorly skin-permeable drugs. However, despite the dozens of clinical trials started, few topically applied liposomal systems have been authorized both in the EU and the USA. Indeed, the intrinsic complexity of the topically applied liposomal systems, the higher production costs, the lack of standardized methods and the more stringent guidelines for assessing their benefit/risk balance can be seen as causes of such inefficient translation. The present work aimed to provide an overview of the physicochemical and biopharmaceutical characterization methods that can be applied to topical liposomal systems intended to be marketed as medicinal products, and the current regulatory provisions. The discussion highlights how such methodologies can be relevant for defining the critical quality attributes of the final product, and they can be usefully applied based on the phase of the life cycle of a liposomal product: to guide the formulation studies in the early stages of development, to rationally design preclinical and clinical trials, to support the pharmaceutical quality control system and to sustain post-marketing variations. The provided information can help define harmonized quality standards able to overcome the case-by-case approach currently applied by regulatory agencies in assessing the benefit/risk of the topically applied liposomal systems.

UV Radiation in DNA Damage and Repair Involving DNA-Photolyases and Cryptochromes

Prolonged exposure to ultraviolet radiation on human skin can lead to mutations in DNA, photoaging, suppression of the immune system, and other damage up to skin cancer (melanoma, basal cell, and squamous cell carcinoma). We reviewed the state of knowledge of the damaging action of UVB and UVA on DNA, and also the mechanisms of DNA repair with the participation of the DNA-photolyase enzyme or of the nucleotide excision repair (NER) system. In the course of evolution, most mammals lost the possibility of DNA photoreparation due to the disappearance of DNA photolyase genes, but they retained closely related cryptochromes that regulate the transcription of the NER system enzymes. We analyze the published relationships between DNA photolyases/cryptochromes and carcinogenesis, as well as their possible role in the prevention and treatment of diseases caused by UV radiation.