Efficacy of a Dermocosmetic Serum Combining Bakuchiol and Vanilla Tahitensis Extract to Prevent Skin Photoaging in vitro and to Improve Clinical Outcomes for Naturally Aged Skin

Senomorphic activity of a combination of niacinamide and hyaluronic acid: correlation with clinical improvement of skin aging

Intrinsic and extrinsic factors, including lifestyle and sun exposure, can contribute to cell senescence, which impairs skin homeostasis, that may in turn lead to skin aging. Senescent cells have a specific secretome, called the senescence-associated secretory phenotype (SASP) that includes MMPs, CXCLs and S100A8/9. Reducing the SASP with senotherapeutics is a promising strategy to reduce skin aging. Here we evaluated the effect of a formula containing niacinamide and hyaluronic acid, which are known to limit senescence and skin aging. We conducted three different studies. (1) Ex vivo explants treated with the formula had more collagen and glycosaminoglycan. (2) In a clinical trial with forty-four women, two months of treatment improved fine lines, wrinkles, luminosity, smoothness, homogeneity, and plumpness. (3) In a third study on thirty women, we treated one arm for two months and took skin biopsies to study gene expression. 101 mRNAs and 13 miRNAs were differentially expressed. We observed a likely senomorphic effect, as there was a decrease in many SASP genes including MMP12 and CXCL9 and a significant downregulation of autocrine signaling genes: S100A8 and S100A9. These pharmaco-clinical results are the first to demonstrate the senomorphic properties of an effective anti-aging formula in skin.

Cosmeceuticals for antiaging: a systematic review of safety and efficacy

Cosmeceuticals, the bridge between pharmaceuticals and cosmetics, contain biologically active ingredients that may improve the skin's overall appearance. As the market, accessibility, and popularity of cosmeceuticals increase, it is essential to understand the safety and efficacy of such products. This systematic review aims to examine published clinical studies involving the use of cosmeceuticals for antiaging to provide evidence-based recommendations based on available efficacy and safety data. PubMed, Embase, and Cochrane were systematically searched on January 1, 2023 using PRISMA guidelines. Strength of evidence was graded using the Oxford Centre for Evidence-Based Medicine guidelines. Clinical recommendations were made based on the quality of the existing literature. A total of 153 articles regarding the use of cosmeceuticals for treatment of antiaging were identified. After screening of titles, abstracts, and full text, 32 studies involving 1236 patients met inclusion criteria, including 20 randomized controlled trials (RCTs) and 12 non-randomized open-label clinical trials for Vitamin C, Retinol, Bakuchiol, Tetrahydrojasmonic acid, Growth Factors, Methyl Estradiolpropanoate, Timosaponin A-III (TA-III), Protocatechuic acid, Grammatophyllum speciosum, and Jasmine rice panicle extract. Retinol and vitamin C for antiaging received a Grade A for recommendation. Methyl estradiolpropanoate, bakuchiol, tetrahydrojasmonic acid, and growth factors received a recommendation grade of C. The remaining ingredients were assigned an inconclusive grade of recommendation due to lack of evidence. Cosmeceuticals included in the review had favorable safety profiles with few significant adverse events. The review analyzes numerous different ingredients to provide an evidence-based approach to decision-making for consumers and physicians on the use of cosmeceuticals for antiaging. Limitations to our review include a limited number of randomized controlled trials and a need for long-term data on each cosmeceutical's efficacy and safety. Future research is needed to establish the long-term effectiveness and safety of cosmeceuticals.

Exploring quality evaluation markers of Fructus Psoraleae based on chemometric analysis integrated with network pharmacology

INTRODUCTION

Fructus Psoraleae (FP) is a well-known traditional Chinese medicine for the treatment of osteoporosis. However, major quality differences were witnessed owing to its various origins, thus influencing its safety and efficacy.

OBJECTIVES

The study aimed to evaluate the quality of FP from different origins and predict its quality evaluation markers.

METHODS

Ultra-high-performance liquid chromatography coupled with quadrupole time-of-flight tandem mass spectrometry was employed for tentative characterisation of the constituents in 10 batches of FP, followed by the utilisation of multivariate statistical analysis methods including principal component analysis and orthogonal partial least squares discriminant analysis for quality evaluation. Network pharmacology approaches were utilised to explore the underlying mechanism of the screened chemotaxonomic markers in treating osteoporosis.

RESULTS

Forty-one components in FP including, chalcones, coumarins, coumestans, flavonoids, iso-flavonoids, and phenolics, were characterised based on their fragmentation pathways. Ten batches of FP were basically divided into three categories, and eight chemotaxonomic markers including isopsoralen, calamenene, bakuchiol, psoralen, bavachinin, isoneobavaisoflavone, corylifol C, and neobavaisoflavone were screened. Network pharmacology revealed that the chemotaxonomic markers can act on targets such as AKT1, HSP90AA1, and EGFR and possess effects mainly through glycolysis and wnt/β-catenin signalling to alleviate osteoporosis. Molecular docking and molecular dynamic simulation confirmed the good binding affinity and stability between proteins and selected markers. So, eight chemotaxonomic markers were all preferentially recommended as quality evaluation markers.

CONCLUSION

The study not only provides a reference for the improvement of quality control of FP but also offers a theoretical basis for its further in-depth research in osteoporosis.

A hyaluronic acid-based micro-filler improves superficial wrinkles and skin quality: a randomized prospective controlled multicenter study

BACKGROUND

NCTF®135HA is a bio-revitalizing solution containing hyaluronic acid designed to compensate for skin dehydration, fatigue, and fine wrinkles associated with endogenous and environmental aging.

METHODS

We conducted a randomized, active-controlled study to evaluate the efficacy and tolerability of NCTF®135HA injections on the face (crow's feet), neck, and décolleté regions. Subjects were randomly assigned (3:1) to receive three NCTF®135HA treatment sessions plus twice-daily anti-aging moisturizer cream or cream alone (control). The primary outcome was the reduction in superficial wrinkles between baseline and Day (D)75 in the three areas, assessed by profilometric measures, clinical scoring, subjective changes, and tolerability.

RESULTS

146 subjects were randomized to NCTF®135HA (n = 107) or control (n = 38). At D75 and D120, NCTF®135HA significantly reduced wrinkles in all three areas and improved facial radiance scores compared with the control. Skin hydration significantly increased 7 d after the last NCTF®135HA injection. Self-esteem scales showed statistically significant improvements at D75 and D120 in subjects treated with NCTF®135HA versus baseline. Most adverse events were mild, resolved within 48 h, and were related to the injection procedure.

CONCLUSION

NCTF®135HA is an effective and well-tolerated treatment to reduce the skin signs of aging. The results are significantly superior to a routine anti-aging cream alone.(Funded by Laboratories FILLMED; ID-RCB number: 2018-A03167-48; clinicaltrials.gov number: NCT05609617).

Bakuchiol, a natural constituent and its pharmacological benefits

Background and aims

Natural compounds extracted from medicinal plants have recently gained attention in therapeutics as they are considered to have lower Toxicity and higher tolerability relative to chemically synthesized compounds. Bakuchiol from Psoralea corylifolia L. is one such compound; it is a type of meroterpene derived from the leaves and seeds of Psoralea corylifolia plants. Natural sources of bakuchiol have been used in traditional Chinese and Indian medicine for centuries due to its preventive benefits against tumors and inflammation. It plays a strong potential role as an antioxidant with impressive abilities to remove Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS). This review has focused on bakuchiol's extraction, therapeutic applications, and pharmacological benefits.

Methods

A search strategy has been followed to retrieve the relevant newly published literature on the pharmacological benefits of bakuchiol. After an extensive study of the retrieved articles and maintaining the inclusion and exclusion criteria, 110 articles were finally selected for this review.

Results

Strong support of primary research on the protective effects via antitumorigenic, anti-inflammatory, antioxidative, antimicrobial, and antiviral activities are delineated.

Conclusions

From ancient to modern life, medicinal plants have always been drawing the attention of human beings to alleviate ailments for a healthy and balanced lifestyle. This review is a comprehensive approach to highlighting bona fide essential pharmacological benefits and mechanisms underlying their therapeutic applications.

Natural Retinol Analogs Potentiate the Effects of Retinal on Aged and Photodamaged Skin: Results from In Vitro to Clinical Studies

INTRODUCTION

Plants are a source of natural ingredients with retinol-like properties that can deliver anti-aging benefits without the side effects typically associated with retinoid use. We hypothesized that by combining two such analogs, bakuchiol (BAK) and Vigna aconitifolia extract (VAE), with the potent retinoid retinal (RAL), the anti-photoaging potential of RAL could be enhanced without compromising its skin irritation profile. The purpose of this study was to demonstrate that BAK and VAE potentiate the anti-photoaging activity of RAL.

METHODS

Gene expression profiling of full-thickness reconstructed skin was first used to examine the impact of BAK or VAE in combination with RAL on skin biology. Next, the irritative potential of this combination, and its capacity to reverse key signs of photoaging in an ex vivo model was assessed. Finally, a proof-of-concept open label clinical study was performed to evaluate the anti-photoaging capacity and skin compatibility of a cosmetic formulation (tri-retinoid complex; 3RC) containing this complex in combination with other well characterized anti-photoaging ingredients.

RESULTS

In vitro profiling suggested that combining 0.1% RAL with BAK or VAE potentiates the effect of RAL on keratinocyte differentiation and skin barrier function without affecting its skin irritation profile. When formulated with other anti-photoaging ingredients, such as niacinamide and melatonin, 3RC reversed ultraviolet radiation-induced deficits in structural components of the dermal extracellular matrix, including hyaluronic acid and collagen. In vivo, it led to a reversal of clinical signs of age and photodamage, with statistically significant improvement to skin firmness (+5.6%), skin elasticity (+13.9%), wrinkle count (-43.2%), and skin tone homogeneity (+7.0%), observed within 28 days of once nightly use. Notably, the number of crow's feet wrinkles was reduced in 100% of subjects. Furthermore, 3RC was very well tolerated.

CONCLUSION

These data suggest that 3RC is a highly effective and well-tolerated treatment for photoaging.

Inflammaging and Immunosenescence as Part of Skin Aging-A Narrative Review

Inflammaging and immunosenescence are associated with aging of the human body, but there are key differences between them. Immunosenescence aims to adapt the body systems to aging, while inflammaging is considered a consequence of immunosenescence. There has been much research in the area of immunosenescence and inflammaging recently, yet our understanding of aging and the ability to develop interventions to decrease the harmful effect of aging on the human body is insufficient. This review is focused on immunosenescence and inflammaging processes in the skin. We aimed to identify factors that influence inflammaging, skin aging, and their mechanisms. We discussed the role of triggering factors (e.g., UV radiations, changes in bioavailability of nitric oxide, senescence-associated secretory phenotype factors, and reactive oxygen species) and inhibiting factors that can potentially be used as anti-aging treatments, as well as the idea of geroprotectors and senotherapeutics. We concluded that while knowledge on external factors can help people to improve their health conditions, knowledge on biochemical factors can help researchers to understand inflammaging process and develop interventions to minimize the impact of aging on the human body. Further research is needed to better understand the role of factors that can slow down or accelerate inflammaging.

Pharmaceutical based cosmetic serums

The growth and demand for cosmeceuticals (cosmetic products that have medicinal or drug-like benefits) have been enhanced for the last few decades. Lately, the newly invented dosage form, i.e., the pharmaceutical-based cosmetic serum has been developed and widely employed in various non-invasive cosmetic procedures. Many pharmaceutical-based cosmetic serums contain natural active components that claim to have a medical or drug-like effect on the skin, hair, and nails, including anti-aging, anti-wrinkle, anti-acne, hydrating, moisturizing, repairing, brightening and lightening skin, anti-hair fall, anti-fungal, and nail growth effect, etc. In comparison with other pharmaceutical-related cosmetic products (creams, gels, foams, and lotions, etc.), pharmaceutical-based cosmetic serums produce more rapid and incredible effects on the skin. This chapter provides detailed knowledge about the different marketed pharmaceutical-based cosmetic serums and their several types such as facial serums, hair serums, nail serums, under the eye serum, lip serum, hand, and foot serum, respectively. Moreover, some valuable procedures have also been discussed which provide prolong effects with desired results in the minimum duration of time after the few sessions of the serum treatment.

Applications of bakuchiol in dermatology: Systematic review of the literature

BACKGROUND

Bakuchiol (BAK), a meroterpene phenol abundant in the plant Psoralea corylifolia, is an emerging cosmeceutical agent with promising anti-aging, anti-inflammatory, and antibacterial properties. The trend for "clean" skincare products and search for anti-aging retinoid alternatives have poised BAK as a "must-have" ingredient in skincare.

AIMS

Our aim was to review the data for the applications of BAK in dermatology.

METHODS

This is a systematic review of PubMed.

RESULTS

Thirty articles matched our search terms ["Bakuchiol" and "Dermatology"] or ["Bakuchiol" and "Skin"] of which one did not meet inclusion criteria, 16 were pre-clinical studies, seven clinical studies, three commentaries, two narrative reviews, and one report on adverse events. BAK has been mostly studied for its effects on photoaging, acne, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), showing beneficial results comparable to those achieved by topical retinoids. While having no structural resemblance to retinoids, BAK can function as a retinol analog, through retinol-like regulation of gene expression. In in vivo studies, BAK was used alone or in combination with other products resulting in a significant reduction in photodamage, hyperpigmentation, wrinkle scores, and acne severity. Additionally, in vitro studies hinted at its anti-cancer properties by inhibiting epidermal growth factor induced neoplastic cell transformation. Also, demonstrated potential applications in psoriasis by normalizing keratinocyte activity and in pigmentary disorders through inhibition of melanogenesis. There was one adverse event case reported of contact dermatitis in the literature.

CONCLUSIONS

Bakuchiol is a retinol alternative with anti-aging, antibacterial, and anti-inflammatory properties. Additional studies are warranted to better understand its applications in dermatology.

Bakuchiol - a natural meroterpenoid: structure, isolation, synthesis and functionalization approaches

Bakuchiol is an emblematic meroterpene class of natural product extracted from Psoralea corylifolia. It has been reported to possess a broad range of biological and pharmacological properties and is considered as a leading biomolecule. It is highly desirable to devise an efficient approach to access bakuchiol and its chemical biology applications. In this review we provided structural features, isolation methods, various chemical routes and late-stage functionalization (LSF) approaches for bakuchiol and its derivatives. Moreover, this review encompasses the structure-activity relationships (SAR), value-added contributions and future perspectives of bakuchiol.

Skin Depigmenting Agents in Anti-Aging Cosmetics: A Medicinal Perspective on Emerging Ingredients

Human skin aging results from intrinsic and extrinsic factors. Uneven pigmentation is one of the major changes of extrinsic aging. Many compounds have been tested for depigmenting activity but only a few are actually used by the cosmetic industry, which is continually looking for new ingredients. In this study, the trends in the use of skin depigmenting ingredients in a panel of anti-aging formulations commercialized in the Portuguese pharmacy market were analyzed, by comparing the composition of the products marketed in 2011 with products launched or reformulated in 2018 (59% and 74%, respectively). The analysis of the top 12 ingredients put forward three novelties for 2018: tranexamic acid, bakuchiol, and 4-butylresorcinol. Regarding their mechanisms of action, tranexamic acid inhibits melanin synthesis through inhibition of the plasminogen/plasmin system. Bakuchiol depigmenting efficacy was attributed to the ability to block both α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone and tyrosinase activation, while 4-butylresorcinol exerts its action through the inhibition of both tyrosinase and tyrosinase-related protein-1 (TRP-1). Industry-optimized and efficient synthetic methodologies that embrace green chemistry, reducing the environmental impact, are commonly used. This analysis aims to bring insights to both formulators, involved in the development of depigmenting cosmetic products, and chemists performing the synthesis of new and existing compounds intended for this purpose.

Repurposing INCI-registered compounds as skin prebiotics for probiotic Staphylococcus epidermidis against UV-B

Repurposing existing compounds for new indications may facilitate the discovery of skin prebiotics which have not been well defined. Four compounds that have been registered by the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) were included to study their abilities to induce the fermentation of Staphylococcusepidermidis (S. epidermidis), a bacterial species abundant in the human skin. Liquid coco-caprylate/caprate (LCC), originally used as an emollient, effectively initiated the fermentation of S. epidermidis ATCC 12228, produced short-chain fatty acids (SCFAs), and provoked robust electricity. Application of LCC plus electrogenic S. epidermidis ATCC 12228 on mouse skin significantly reduced ultraviolet B (UV-B)-induced injuries which were evaluated by the formation of 4-hydroxynonenal (4-HNE), cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers (CPD), and skin lesions. A S. epidermidis S2 isolate with low expressions of genes encoding pyruvate dehydrogenase (pdh), and phosphate acetyltransferase (pta) was found to be poorly electrogenic. The protective action of electrogenic S. epidermidis against UV-B-induced skin injuries was considerably suppressed when mouse skin was applied with LCC in combination with a poorly electrogenic S. epidermidis S2 isolate. Exploring new indication of LCC for promoting S. epidermidis against UV-B provided an example of repurposing INCI-registered compounds as skin prebiotics.