Antioxidant Properties of Plant-Derived Phenolic Compounds and Their Effect on Skin Fibroblast Cells

Protective Effects of Wild Sulla coronaria (Fabaceae) Flowers Phytocomplex in Human Dermal Fibroblasts Stimulated with Interleukin-1β

Sulla coronaria is indigenous to the Mediterranean region. It is grown as fodder in southern Italy because it contains various secondary metabolites with beneficial activities on animals. Recently, its potential use in cosmeceutical treatments for skin problems was reported. In this scenario, to contribute to a possible cosmeceutical application, we characterized the phytochemical profile of Sulla coronaria flowers' hydroalcoholic extract by HPLC-DAD, Folin-Ciocalteu, Aluminum Chloride methods, DPPH assay, and, for the first time, we evaluated the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities on dermal fibroblasts. The phytochemical analysis confirmed the significant content of phenolic compounds (TPC 69.8 ± 0.6 mg GAE/g extract, TFC 15.07 mg CE/g extract) and the remarkable presence of rutin, quercetin, and isorhamnetin derivatives that give to the phytocomplex a good antioxidant activity as highlighted by the DPPH assay (IC50 of 8.04 ± 0.5 µg/mL). Through the reduction in NO• and ROS levels in human dermal fibroblasts, the biological tests demonstrated both the safety of the extract and its ability to counteract the inflammatory state generated by Interleukin-1β exposure. Our findings indicate that the antioxidant activities of the phytocomplex are strictly related to the anti-inflammatory action of the Sulla coronaria flowers extract, confirming that this plant could be a valuable source of bioactive molecules for cosmeceutical and nutraceutical applications.

In Vitro Wound-Healing Potential of Phenolic and Polysaccharide Extracts of Aloe vera Gel

The present study aimed to conduct a comparative investigation of the biological properties of phenolic and polysaccharide extracts obtained using an ultrasound-assisted technique from Aloe vera gel and their effects on each stage of the wound healing process in in vitro experimental models. HPLC analysis showed that the phenolic extract contained aloin, ferulic, and caffeic acid, as well as quercetin dihydrate, as major compounds. Capillary zone electrophoresis indicated the prevalence of mannose and glucose in the polysaccharide extract. Cell culture testing revealed the anti-inflammatory properties of the phenolic extract at a concentration of 0.25 mg/mL through significant inhibition of pro-inflammatory cytokines-up to 28% TNF-α and 11% IL-8 secretion-in inflamed THP-1-derived macrophages, while a pro-inflammatory effect was observed at 0.5 mg/mL. The phenolic extract induced 18% stimulation of L929 fibroblast proliferation at a concentration of 0.5 mg/mL, enhanced the cell migration rate by 20%, and increased collagen type I synthesis by 18%. Moreover, the phenolic extract exhibited superior antioxidant properties by scavenging free DPPH (IC50 of 2.50 mg/mL) and ABTS (16.47 mM TE/g) radicals, and 46% inhibition of intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) production was achieved. The polysaccharide extract demonstrated a greater increase in collagen synthesis up to 25%, as well as antibacterial activity against Staphylococcus aureus with a bacteriostatic effect at 25 mg/mL and a bactericidal one at 50 mg/mL. All these findings indicate that the phenolic extract might be more beneficial in formulations intended for the initial phases of wound healing, such as inflammation and proliferation, while the polysaccharide extract could be more suitable for use during the remodeling stage. Moreover, they might be combined with other biomaterials, acting as efficient dressings with anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and antibacterial properties for rapid recovery of chronic wounds.

Quercus infectoria Gall Ethanolic Extract Accelerates Wound Healing through Attenuating Inflammation and Oxidative Injuries in Skin Fibroblasts

Quercus infectoria Olivier (Fagaceae) nutgall, a traditional Asian medicine, is renowned for its efficacy in treating wounds and skin disorders. Although the gall extract has shown promising results in accelerating wound healing in diabetic animal models, its mechanisms, particularly the effects on redox balance, remain poorly understood. This study aims to investigate the effects and mechanisms of Q. infectoria gall ethanolic extract (QIG) on wound healing in fibroblasts, with a specific emphasis on its modulation of oxidative stress. Hydrogen peroxide (H2O2)-treated L929 cells were used as an in vitro model of oxidation-damaged fibroblasts. QIG exhibited potent antioxidant activity with 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH), 2,2'-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid (ABTS), and ferric reducing antioxidant power (FRAP) assay values of 305.43 ± 7.48, 508.94 ± 15.12, and 442.08 ± 9.41 µM Trolox equivalents (TE)/µg, respectively. Elevated H2O2 levels significantly reduced L929 cell viability, with a 50% lethal concentration of 1.03 mM. QIG mitigated H2O2-induced cytotoxicity in a dose-dependent manner, showing protective effects in pre-, post-, and co-treatment scenarios. QIG significantly reduced H2O2-induced intracellular reactive oxygen species production and inflammation-related gene expression (p < 0.05). Additionally, at 25 µg/mL, QIG remarkably improved wound closure in H2O2-treated L929 cells by approximately 9.4 times compared with the H2O2 treatment alone (p < 0.05). These findings suggest QIG has potential therapeutic applications in wound healing, mediated through the regulation of oxidative stress and inflammatory response.

Wound Healing Potential of a Novel Sedum Species: S. album Murales

Natural wound healing products are in increased demand. The potential for unexplored Sedum species in wound healing was discovered based on benefits of the genus reported in traditional medicine. The objectives were to screen ten Sedum species for wound healing, to ascertain the optimal harvest period using the five best, and finally to investigate effects of extraction protocols on wound healing using the most promising species. Different protocols were used to extract leaf polyphenol and mucilage content. Wound healing was assessed from L929 fibroblast migration. April was the optimal harvest month for wound healing efficacy, whereas the highest polyphenol content and antioxidant activity were evident in September and November. S. album Murales (ALBU), the best candidate, was then compared with S. telephium (TELE), which is well recognized in skin care. The mucilage-containing aqueous extract of ALBU was shown for the first time to induce the highest fibroblast migration after 24 h, not evident in TELE. Moreover, functional constituents contained within the absolute acetone- and isopropanol-containing polyphenol pools from ALBU induced significantly higher migration compared to TELE. A prototype cream, containing the water- and solvent-extracted bioactive compounds was effective at inducing fibroblast migration at 24 h in ALBU. The potential of ALBU in wound healing was evidenced and warrants further investigation.

A Spatiotemporal Controllable Biomimetic Skin for Accelerating Wound Repair

Skin injury repair is a dynamic process involving a series of interactions over time and space. Linking human physiological processes with materials' changes poses a significant challenge. To match the wound healing process, a spatiotemporal controllable biomimetic skin is developed, which comprises a three-dimensional (3D) printed membrane as the epidermis, a cell-containing hydrogel as the dermis, and a cytokine-laden hydrogel as the hypodermis. In the initial stage of the biomimetic skin repair wound, the membrane frame aids wound closure through pre-tension, while cells proliferate within the hydrogel. Next, as the frame disintegrates over time, cells released from the hydrogel migrate along the residual membrane. Throughout the process, continuous cytokines release from the hypodermis hydrogel ensures comprehensive nourishment. The findings reveal that in the rat full-thickness skin defect model, the biomimetic skin demonstrated a wound closure rate eight times higher than the blank group, and double the collagen content, particularly in the early repair process. Consequently, it is reasonable to infer that this biomimetic skin holds promising potential to accelerate wound closure and repair. This biomimetic skin with mechanobiological effects and spatiotemporal regulation emerges as a promising option for tissue regeneration engineering.

Investigating the Anti-Inflammatory Properties and Skin Penetration Ability of Cornelian Cherry (Cornus mas L.) Extracts

Plant extracts can be a valuable source of biologically active compounds in many cosmetic preparations. Their effect depends on the phytochemicals they contain and their ability to penetrate the skin. Therefore, in this study, the possibility of skin penetration by phenolic acids contained in dogwood extracts of different fruit colors (yellow, red, and dark ruby red) prepared using different extractants was investigated. These analyses were performed using a Franz chamber and HPLC-UV chromatography. Moreover, the antioxidant properties of the tested extracts were compared and their impact on the intracellular level of free radicals in skin cells was assessed. The cytotoxicity of these extracts towards keratinocytes and fibroblasts was also analyzed and their anti-inflammatory properties were assessed using the enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA). The analyses showed differences in the penetration of individual phenolic acids into the skin and different biological activities of the tested extracts. None of the extracts had cytotoxic effects on skin cells in vitro, and the strongest antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties were found in dogwood extracts with dark ruby red fruits.

Skin Tolerability of Oleic Acid Based Nanovesicles Designed for the Improvement of Icariin and Naproxen Percutaneous Permeation

Deformable nanovesicles have a crucial role in topical drug delivery through the skin, due to their capability to pass intact the stratum corneum and epidermis (SCE) and significantly increase the efficacy and accumulation of payloads in the deeper layers of the skin. Namely, lipid-based ultradeformable nanovesicles are versatile and load bioactive molecules with different physicochemical properties. For this reason, this study aims to make oleic acid based nanovesicles (oleosomes) for the codelivery of icariin and sodium naproxen and increase their permeation through the skin. Oleosomes have suitable physicochemical properties and long-term stability for a potential dermal or transdermal application. The inclusion of oleic acid in the lipid bilayer increases 3-fold the deformable properties of oleosomes compared to conventional liposomes and significantly improves the percutaneous permeation of icariin and sodium naproxen through the human SCE membranes compared to hydroalcoholic solutions of both drugs. The tolerability studies on human volunteers demonstrate that oleosomes are safer and speed up the recovery of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) baselines compared to saline solution. These results highlight promising properties of icariin/sodium naproxen coloaded oleosomes for the treatment of skin disorders and suggest the potential future applications of these nanovesicles for further in vivo experiments.

Chitosan hydrogels enriched with bioactive phloroglucinol for controlled drug diffusion and potential wound healing

We report a facile strategy to prepare chitosan (CS) hydrogels that eliminates the need for chemical crosslinking for advanced biomedical therapies. This approach gives controlled properties to the hydrogels by incorporating a natural bioactive phenolic compound, phloroglucinol (PG), into their microstructure. The adsorption of PG onto CS chains enhanced the hydrogels' antioxidant activity by up to 25 % and resulted in a denser, more entangled structure, reducing the pore size by 59 μm while maintaining porosity above 94 %. This allowed us to finely adjust pore size and swelling capacity. These structural properties make these hydrogels well-suited for wound healing dressings, promoting fibroblast proliferation and exhibiting excellent hemocompatibility. Furthermore, to ensure the versatility of these hydrogels, herein, we demonstrate their potential as drug delivery systems, particularly for dermal infections. The drug release can be controlled by a combination of drug diffusion through the swollen hydrogel and relaxation of the CS chains. In summary, our hydrogels leverage the synergistic effects of CS's antibacterial and antifungal properties with PG's antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory attributes, positioning them as promising candidates for biomedical and pharmaceutical applications, more specifically in advanced wound healing therapies with local drug delivery.

Essential oils extracted from nine different plants exhibit differential effects on skin antioxidation and elasticity

Essential oils derived from plants are major ingredients in the medical and cosmetic industry. Here, we evaluated nine types of plant essential oils to identify potential candidates with antioxidant and elasticity-enhancing properties. Seven essential oils showed at least 10% radical scavenging activity at the highest concentration. Essential oils extracted from Aster glehnii, Cinnamomum cassia, Citrus unshiu, Juniperus chinensis L., and Juniperus chinensis var. sargentii significantly enhanced fibroblast viability, and oils from Cit. unshiu, J. chinensis L., and J. chinensis var. sargentii significantly increased cell proliferation and migration. Expression of extracellular matrix proteins, including collagen 1, collagen 3, and elastin, were upregulated by J. chinensis L. and J. chinensis var. sargentii oil, which also significantly enhanced the contractile activity of skin cells in a three-dimensional gel contraction assay. The results suggest that J. chinensis L. and J. chinensis var. sargentii essential oils may be potential anti-wrinkling and anti-oxidative agents for future consideration of use in the medical and cosmetic industry.

Bioactive Compounds and Potential Health Benefits through Cosmetic Applications of Cherry Stem Extract

Cherry stems, prized in traditional medicine for their potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, derive their efficacy from abundant polyphenols and anthocyanins. This makes them an ideal option for addressing skin aging and diseases. This study aimed to assess the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects of cherry stem extract for potential skincare use. To this end, the extract was first comprehensively characterized by HPLC-ESI-qTOF-MS. The extract's total phenolic content (TPC), antioxidant capacity, radical scavenging efficiency, and its ability to inhibit enzymes related to skin aging were determined. A total of 146 compounds were annotated in the cherry stem extract. The extract effectively fought against NO· and HOCl radicals with IC50 values of 2.32 and 5.4 mg/L. Additionally, it inhibited HYALase, collagenase, and XOD enzymes with IC50 values of 7.39, 111.92, and 10 mg/L, respectively. Based on the promising results that were obtained, the extract was subsequently gently integrated into a cosmetic gel at different concentrations and subjected to further stability evaluations. The accelerated stability was assessed through temperature ramping, heating-cooling cycles, and centrifugation, while the long-term stability was evaluated by storing the formulations under light and dark conditions for three months. The gel formulation enriched with cherry stem extract exhibited good stability and compatibility for topical application. Cherry stem extract may be a valuable ingredient for creating beneficial skincare cosmeceuticals.

ROS Scavenging Effect of Selected Isoflavones in Provoked Oxidative Stress Conditions in Human Skin Fibroblasts and Keratinocytes

Isoflavones, belonging to polyphenolic compounds, show structural similarity to natural estrogens, and in this context, they have been extensively studied. Some of them are also applied as cosmetic additives; however, little is known regarding their effects on skin cells. In this investigation, common isoflavones, including genistein, daidzein, glycitein, formononetin, and biochanin A, as well as coumestrol, were evaluated for antioxidant activity and their impact on human skin fibroblasts and keratinocytes. Antioxidant effects were assessed using DPPH, ABTS, and FRAP tests, and the ability to scavenge reactive oxygen species (ROS) was tested in cells with H2O2-provoked oxidative stress. The impact on the activity of antioxidant enzymes (SOD, CAT, GSH) and lipid peroxidation (MDA) was also explored. As shown by Alamar Blue and neutral red uptake assays, the compounds were not toxic within the tested concentration range, and formononetin and coumestrol even demonstrated a stimulatory effect on cells. Coumestrol and biochanin A demonstrated significant antioxidative potential, leading to a significant decrease in ROS in the cells stimulated by H2O2. Furthermore, they influenced enzyme activity, preventing depletion during induced oxidative stress, and also reduced MDA levels, demonstrating protection against lipid peroxidation. In turn, genistein, daidzein, and glycitein exhibited low antioxidant capacity.

Development of cassava starch-based films incorporated with phenolic compounds produced by an Amazonian fungus

Drug-release systems have attracted attention over the last few years since they can be used as a substitute for traditional methods of drug delivery. These have the advantage of being directly administered at the treatment site and can maintain the drug at adequate levels for a longer period, thus increasing their efficacy. Starch-based films are interesting candidates for use as matrices for drug release, especially due to starch's non-toxic properties and its biocompatibility. Endophytic fungi are an important source of bioactive molecules, including secondary metabolites such as phenolic compounds with antioxidant activity. In the present study, cassava starch-based films were developed to act as release systems of phenolic compounds with antioxidant activity. The Amazonian endophytic fungus Aspergillus niger MgF2 was cultivated in liquid media, and the fungal extract was obtained by liquid-liquid partition with ethyl acetate. The starch-based films incorporated with the fungal extract were characterized in regards to their physicochemical properties. The release kinetics of the extract from the film and its antioxidant and cytotoxic properties were also evaluated. The films incorporated with the extract presented maximum release after 25 min at 37 °C and pH 6.8. In addition, it was observed that the antioxidant compounds of the fungal extract maintain their activity after being released from the film, and were non-toxic. Therefore, considering the promising physicochemical properties of the extract-incorporated films, and their considerable antioxidant capacity, the films demonstrate great biotechnological potential with diverse applications in the pharmacological and cosmetic industries.

In Vitro Safety and Efficacy Evaluation of a Juniperus communis Callus Culture Extract and Matricaria recutita Processing Waste Extract Combination as a Cosmetic Ingredient

For skin health promotion and cosmetic applications, combinations of plant cell extracts are extensively utilized. As most natural ingredient suppliers offer crude extracts from individual plants or specific isolated compounds, the potential interactions between them are assessed in the development phase of cosmetic products. The industry seeks extract combinations that have undergone optimization and scrutiny for their bioactivities. This study presents a combination of two sustainably produced botanical ingredients and outlines their chemical composition, in vitro safety, and bioactivity for skin health enhancement. The amalgamation comprises the extract of Matricaria recutita processing waste and the extract from Juniperus communis callus culture. Chemical analysis revealed distinct compounds within the extracts, and their combination led to a broader array of potentially synergistic compounds. In vitro assessments on skin cells demonstrated that the combination possesses robust antioxidant properties and the ability to stimulate keratinocyte proliferation, along with regulating collagen type I and matrix metalloproteinase 1 (MMP-1) production by dermal fibroblasts. The identified traits of this combination render it an appealing cosmetic component. To the best of our knowledge, this represents the first case when the extracts derived from medicinal plant processing waste and biotechnological plant cell cultivation processes have been combined and evaluated for their bioactivity.

The Potential of Roselle (Hibiscus sabdariffa) Plant in Industrial Applications: A Promising Source of Functional Compounds

Roselle is an annual botanical plant that widely planted in different countries worldwide. Its different parts, including seeds, leaves, and calyces, can offer multi-purpose applications with economic importance. The present review discusses the detailed profile of bioactive compounds present in roselle seeds, leaves, and calyces, as well as their extraction and processing, to explore their potential application in pharmaceutical, cosmetic, nutraceutical, food and other industries. Roselle seeds with high phenolics, fiber, and protein contents, which are suitable to use in functional food product development. Besides, roselle seeds can yield 17-20% of roselle seed oil with high content of linoleic acid (35.0-45.3%) and oleic acid (27.1- 36.9%). This unique fatty acid composition of roselle seed oil makes it suitable to use as edible oil to offer the health benefits of essential fatty acid. Moreover, high contents of tocopherols, phenolics, and phytosterols were detected in roselle seed oil to provide nutritional, pharmaceutical, and therapeutic properties. On the other hand, roselle leaves with valuable contents of phenols, flavonoids, organic acid, and tocopherols can be applied in silver nanoparticles, food product development, and the pharmaceutical industry. Roselle calyces with high content of anthocyanins, protocatechuic acids, and organic acids are widely applied in food and colorant industries.

Hypolipidemic, Hypoglycemic, and Ameliorative Effects of Boiled Parsley (Petroselinum crispum) and Mallow (Corchorus olitorius) Leaf Extracts in High-Fat Diet-Fed Rats

Obesity is a major health concern associated with serious conditions such as type 2 diabetes and cardiovascular diseases. This study investigated the potential anti-obesity effects of heat-treated parsley and mallow extracts (PE and ME, respectively) in high-fat diet (HFD)-fed rats. The selected herbs underwent three heat treatments (boiling, blanching, and microwaving), and the most effective treatment was orally administered to the HFD rats for eight weeks. All three treatments effectively increased the total phenolic content (TPC) and antioxidant capacity of the herbs, with boiling treatment exhibiting the most significant increase. Boiled herbs demonstrated approximately 29% higher TPC and an impressive 348% increase in antioxidant activity compared to the other treatments. Oral administration of the boiled herb extracts to the HFD rats resulted in significant reductions in body weight, total cholesterol, triglycerides, and LDL cholesterol levels, while elevating the HDL cholesterol levels compared to the positive control rats. Additionally, the boiled herb extracts exhibited antioxidant, hepatoprotective, and nephroprotective effects. Notably, PE displayed more significant anti-obesity properties compared to ME, potentially due to higher TPC and antioxidant activity observed in PE compared to ME. In conclusion, this study highlights the potential positive effects of boiled parsley against obesity and recommends boiling treatment as the preferred method when heat treatment is required for herbs.

The Characterization and Study of Antibacterial, Free Radical Scavenging, and Anticancer Potential of Livistona chinensis-Mediated Silver Nanoparticles

In the present research, Livistona chinensis leaf extracts were utilized as reductants to bio-fabricate silver nanoparticles (LC-AgNPs) and this was followed by the evaluation of their antioxidant, antibacterial, and anticancer potential. Multiple parameters were optimized for the formation and fidelity of LC-AgNPs. The color shift of the reaction mixture from yellow to dark brown confirmed the LC-AgNPs formation. UV/VIS spectroscopy exhibited a surface plasmon resonance (SPR) band at 436 nm. The Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy spectrum depicted phytochemicals in the plant extract acting as bio-reducers for LC-AgNPs synthesis. The XRD pattern confirmed the presence of LC-AgNPs by showing peaks corresponding to 2θ angle at 8.24° (111), 38.16° (200), 44.20° (220), and 64.72° (311). Zetasizer analysis exhibited size distribution by intensity of LC-AgNPs with a mean value of 255.7 d. nm. Moreover, the zeta potential indicated that the AgNPs synthesized were stable. The irregular shape of LC-AgNPs with a mean average of 38.46 ± 0.26 nm was found by scanning electron microscopy. Furthermore, the antioxidant potential of LC-AgNPs was examined using a DPPH assay and was calculated to be higher in LC-AgNPs than in leaf extracts. The calculated IC50 values of the LC-AgNPs and plant extract are 85.01 ± 0.17 and 209.44 ± 0.24, respectively. The antibacterial activity of LC-AgNPs was investigated against Escherichia coli, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, and Bacillus subtilis as well as Staphylococcus aureus, and maximum potential was observed after 24 h against P. aeruginosa. Moreover, LC-AgNPs exhibited maximum anticancer potential against TPC1 cell lines compared to the plant extract. The findings suggested that LC-AgNPs could be used as antioxidant, antibacterial, and anticancer agents for the cure of free-radical-oriented bacterial and oncogenic diseases.

Cytotoxic effect and induction of apoptosis in human cervical cancer cells by a wood extract from Prosopis laevigata

Cervical cancer ranks fourth in incidence among women worldwide. Cisplatin is currently the first-line drug of treatment for cervical cancer; however, it causes serious adverse effects. Therefore, it is crucial to explore natural products for cervical cancer treatment. Prosopis laevigata is a medicinal plant frequently used for ophthalmological and gastrointestinal infections. In this study, we used the MTT cell viability assay to evaluate the cytotoxic effect of a wood extract from Prosopis laevigata (Extract T7) in SiHa, HeLa, Ca Ski, and C-33 A cancer cell lines. Phosphatidylserine translocation and cell cycle evaluations were performed to determine the mechanism of cellular death. The extract's safety was evaluated using the Ames test with Salmonella typhimurium strains, in vivo acute toxicity assay, and repeated dose toxicity assay in mice. We also identified phenolic compounds of Extract T7 through liquid chromatography/mass spectrometry. Naringin, catechin, and eriodictyol demonstrated a higher concentration in Extract T7. Additionally, Extract T7 exhibited a cytotoxic effect against cervical cancer cells, where C-33 A was the most sensitive (IC50= 22.58 ± 1.10 µg/mL and 14.26 ± 1.11 µg/mL at 24 h and 48 h respectively). Extract T7 induced death by apoptosis and cell cycle arrest in the G2 phase in C-33 A. Extract T7 was not mutagenic. No toxicological effects were observed during acute toxicity and repeated dose toxicity for 28 days. Therefore, further evaluations of Extract T7 should be conducted to identify the complete mechanism of action for potential anti-tumoral activity and safety before conducting studies in animal models.

Comparative Study of Cytotoxicity and Antioxidant, Anti-Aging and Antibacterial Properties of Unfermented and Fermented Extract of Cornus mas L

Due to the high demand for products that can help treat various skin conditions, the interest in plant extracts, which are a valuable source of phytochemicals, is constantly growing. In this work, the properties of extracts and ferments from Cornus mas L. and their potential use in cosmetic products were compared. For this purpose, their composition, antioxidant properties and cytotoxicity against skin cells, keratinocytes and fibroblasts were assessed in vitro. In addition, the ability to inhibit the activity of collagenase and elastase was compared, which enabled the assessment of their potential to inhibit skin aging. Microbiological analyses carried out on different bacterial strains were made in order to compare their antibacterial properties. The conducted analyses showed that both dogwood extract and ferment have antioxidant and anti-aging properties. In addition, they can have a positive effect on the viability of keratinocytes and fibroblasts and inhibit the proliferation of various pathogenic bacteria, which indicates their great potential as ingredients in skin care preparations. The stronger activity of the ferment compared to the extract indicates the legitimacy of carrying out the fermentation process of plant raw materials using kombucha in order to obtain valuable products for the cosmetics industry.

Slowly Making Sense: A Review of the Two-Step Venom System within Slow (Nycticebus spp.) and Pygmy Lorises (Xanthonycticebus spp.)

Since the early 2000s, studies of the evolution of venom within animals have rapidly expanded, offering new revelations on the origins and development of venom within various species. The venomous mammals represent excellent opportunities to study venom evolution due to the varying functional usages, the unusual distribution of venom across unrelated mammals and the diverse variety of delivery systems. A group of mammals that excellently represents a combination of these traits are the slow (Nycticebus spp.) and pygmy lorises (Xanthonycticebus spp.) of south-east Asia, which possess the only confirmed two-step venom system. These taxa also present one of the most intriguing mixes of toxic symptoms (cytotoxicity and immunotoxicity) and functional usages (intraspecific competition and ectoparasitic defence) seen in extant animals. We still lack many pieces of the puzzle in understanding how this venom system works, why it evolved what is involved in the venom system and what triggers the toxic components to work. Here, we review available data building upon a decade of research on this topic, focusing especially on why and how this venom system may have evolved. We discuss that research now suggests that venom in slow lorises has a sophisticated set of multiple uses in both intraspecific competition and the potential to disrupt the immune system of targets; we suggest that an exudate diet reveals several toxic plants consumed by slow and pygmy lorises that could be sequestered into their venom and which may help heal venomous bite wounds; we provide the most up-to-date visual model of the brachial gland exudate secretion protein (BGEsp); and we discuss research on a complement component 1r (C1R) protein in saliva that may solve the mystery of what activates the toxicity of slow and pygmy loris venom. We conclude that the slow and pygmy lorises possess amongst the most complex venom system in extant animals, and while we have still a lot more to understand about their venom system, we are close to a breakthrough, particularly with current technological advances.

Antioxidant and Wound Healing Bioactive Potential of Extracts Obtained from Bark and Needles of Softwood Species

Interest in the extraction of phytochemical bioactive compounds, especially polyphenols from biomass, has recently increased due to their valuable biological potential as natural sources of antioxidants, which could be used in a wide range of applications, from foods and pharmaceuticals to green polymers and bio-based materials. The present research study aimed to provide a comprehensive chemical characterization of the phytochemical composition of forest biomass (bark and needles) of softwood species (Picea abies L., H. Karst., and Abies alba Mill.) and to investigate their in vitro antioxidant and antimicrobial activities to assess their potential in treating and healing infected chronic wounds. The DPPH radical-scavenging method and P-LD were used for a mechanistic explanation of the biomolecular effects of the investigated bioactive compounds. (+)-Catechin, epicatechin, rutin, myricetin, 4 hydroxybenzoic and p-cumaric acids, kaempherol, and apigenin were the main quantified polyphenols in coniferous biomass (in quantities around 100 µg/g). Also, numerous phenolic acids, flavonoids, stilbenes, terpenes, lignans, secoiridoids, and indanes with antioxidant, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, antihemolytic, and anti-carcinogenic potential were identified. The Abies alba needle extract was more toxic to microbial strains than the eukaryotic cells that provide its active wound healing principles. In this context, developing industrial upscaling strategies is imperative for the long-term success of biorefineries and incorporating them as part of a circular bio-economy.

Anti-Inflammatory and Protective Effects of Water Extract and Bioferment from Sambucus nigra Fruit in LPS-Induced Human Skin Fibroblasts

In this study, an attempt was made to evaluate the antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and protective effects of the Sambucus nigra fruit extract and its ferment obtained by fermentation with kombucha tea fungus. For this purpose, fermented and non-fermented extracts were compared in terms of their chemical composition by the HPLC/ESI-MS chromatographic method. The antioxidant activity of the tested samples was assessed using DPPH and ABTS assays. Cytotoxicity was also determined using Alamar Blue and Neutral Red tests to assess the viability and metabolism of fibroblast and keratinocyte skin cells. Potential anti-aging properties were determined by their ability to inhibit the activity of the metalloproteinases collagenase and elastase. Tests showed that the extract and the ferment have antioxidant properties and stimulate the proliferation of both cell types. The study also assessed the anti-inflammatory activity of the extract and ferment by monitoring levels of the pro-inflammatory interleukins IL-6, IL-1ß, tumor necrosis factor (TNF-α) and anti-inflammatory IL-10 in lipopolysaccharide (LPS)-treated fibroblast cells. The results indicate that both the S. nigra extract and its kombucha ferment can be effective in preventing free-radical-induced cell damage and have positive effects on skin cell health.

Efficient production and skincare activity evaluation of schizophyllan, a β-glucan derived from Schizophyllum commune NTU-1

Schizophyllan (SPG), a β-glucan produced by the fungus Schizophyllum commune, possesses a β-(1 → 3)-linked backbone with single β-(1 → 6)-linked glucose side chains at approximately every third residue. In this study, we screened SPG-producing strains of S. commune from different provinces in China. A candidate strain (NTU-1) with a high SPG yield was chosen, and the fermentation conditions were optimized. The optimal carbon and nitrogen sources were sucrose (40 g/L) and yeast extract (20 g/L), respectively. The optimal conditions for pH and temperature were 5.0 and 28 °C, respectively. Inclusion of 0.2 mg/L of 2,4-Dichlorophenoxyacetic acid in the medium further increased the SPG concentration. In a 5-L bioreactor, the fermentation cycle was reduced from the initial seven days to five days, and the concentration of SPG obtained was 21.3 g/L, which is the highest reported to date. In addition, we evaluated the bioactivity of the SPG prepared using strain NTU-1. The results showed that SPG had certain characteristics of anti-oxidation, anti-photoaging, and inhibition of melanin production, making it a promising reagent for skin care.

Antioxidant Biomaterials in Cutaneous Wound Healing and Tissue Regeneration: A Critical Review

Natural-based biomaterials play an important role in developing new products for medical applications, primarily in cutaneous injuries. A large panel of biomaterials with antioxidant properties has revealed an advancement in supporting and expediting tissue regeneration. However, their low bioavailability in preventing cellular oxidative stress through the delivery system limits their therapeutic activity at the injury site. The integration of antioxidant compounds in the implanted biomaterial should be able to maintain their antioxidant activity while facilitating skin tissue recovery. This review summarises the recent literature that reported the role of natural antioxidant-incorporated biomaterials in promoting skin wound healing and tissue regeneration, which is supported by evidence from in vitro, in vivo, and clinical studies. Antioxidant-based therapies for wound healing have shown promising evidence in numerous animal studies, even though clinical studies remain very limited. We also described the underlying mechanism of reactive oxygen species (ROS) generation and provided a comprehensive review of ROS-scavenging biomaterials found in the literature in the last six years.

The role of cytokines/chemokines in an aging skin immune microenvironment

Reversing or slowing down the skin aging process is one of the most intriguing areas of focus across the social and scientific communities around the world. While aging is considered a universal and inevitable natural process of physiological decline, the aging of the skin is the most apparent visual representation of an individual's health. Aging skin may be objectively defined by epidermal thinning; increased transepidermal water loss; decreased cutaneous barrier function; loss of elasticity, laxity, and textured appearance; and gradual deterioration of the epidermal immune environment. As the largest structure of the immune system and of the body as a whole, the skin is the most vulnerable barrier of defense against the environment. The skin reflects an individual's exposures, lifestyle habits, and overall health. From an immunological perspective, cytokines and chemokines act as a central character in the communicating of the immunity in skin aging. These cell signaling proteins serve as the intercellular communication link. This review aims to elucidate how cell-cell crosstalk through cytokines and chemokines, and the interplay between host cells, infiltrating immune cells, and exogenous factors contribute to the overall aging skin.

Tephrosia toxicaria (Sw.) Pers. extracts: Screening by examining aedicidal action under laboratory and field conditions along with its antioxidant, antileishmanial, and antimicrobial activities

An increase in the incidence of arboviral, microbial and parasitic infections, and to disorders related to oxidative stress has encouraged the development of adjuvant therapies based on natural formulations, such as those involving plant extracts. Thus, to expand the repertoire of the available therapeutic options, this study aimed to describe the versatility of Tephrosia toxicaria (Sw.) (Pers., 1807) extracts for the control of arbovirus vectors, as well as their antioxidant, antileishmanial, and antimicrobial potential. Among the aqueous and hydroethanolic extracts obtained, the hydroethanolic extract from roots (RHA) was identified as the most active larvicide extract demonstrating, respectively, the lowest lethal concentration (mg/mL) for 50%, 90% and 99% of Aedes aegypti (L., 1762) and Aedes albopictus (S., 1894) larvae, observed at 24 h (0.33, 0.84 and 1.80; 0.32, 0.70 and 1.32) and 48 h (0.17, 0.51 and 1.22; 0.26, 0.47 and 0.78) post-exposure. Field assays revealed that RHA (0.84 mg/mL) is a potential oviposition deterrent, reducing egg-laying by approximately 90%. RHA (0.1 mg/mL) also exhibited antioxidant activity for the following tests: total antioxidant capacity (286.86 mg AAE/g), iron (87.16%) and copper (25.64%) chelation, and superoxide scavenging (10%). In the cell culture assays, RHA (0.1 mg/mL) promoted regeneration of metabolic activity (92% cell viability) in cells exposed to oxidative stress. Furthermore, RHA displayed weak antileishmanial activity (IC50 = 3.53 mg/mL) against Leishmania amazonensis and not exhibit antimicrobial activity. The extraction favored the concentration of carbohydrates in RHA, in addition to lectins and protease inhibitors, with molecular masses estimated between 10 and 24 kDa. Cytotoxicity and phytotoxicity analyses of RHA suggested its biosecurity. Thus, RHA is a multivalent extract with insecticide and antioxidant properties at low and safe concentrations. However, others studies on its indirect toxic effects are ongoing to ensure the complete safety of RHA.

Plants as Modulators of Melanogenesis: Role of Extracts, Pure Compounds and Patented Compositions in Therapy of Pigmentation Disorders

The kingdom of plants as a "green biofabric" of valuable bioactive molecules has long been used in many ailments. Currently, extracts and pure compounds of plant origin are used to aid in pigmentation skin problems by influencing the process of melanogenesis. Melanin is a very important pigment that protects human skin against ultraviolet radiation and oxidative stress. It is produced by a complex process called melanogenesis. However, disturbances in the melanogenesis mechanism may increase or decrease the level of melanin and generate essential skin problems, such as hyperpigmentation and hypopigmentation. Accordingly, inhibitors or activators of pigment formation are desirable for medical and cosmetic industry. Such properties may be exhibited by molecules of plant origin. Therefore, that literature review presents reports on plant extracts, pure compounds and compositions that may modulate melanin production in living organisms. The potential of plants in the therapy of pigmentation disorders has been highlighted.

Dermatocosmetic Emulsions Based on Resveratrol, Ferulic Acid and Saffron (Crocus sativus) Extract to Combat Skin Oxidative Stress-Trigger Factor of Some Potential Malignant Effects: Stability Studies and Rheological Properties

The increasing incidence of skin diseases, against the background of increased pollution, urbanism, poor habits in lifestyle, work, rest, diet and general medication, led to the development of products with a protective effect. These new types of dermatocosmetic preparations ensure maximum benefits with minimal formulation. Antioxidants are, nowadays, ingredients that stand out with a proven role in skin protection from oxidative stress and its effects. Thus, research has shown that light-textured formulas, quickly absorbed into the skin, with optimum hydration and protection against excessive free radicals, uphold the skin integrity and appearance. This article aims to evaluate essential criteria for a newly marketed product: stability, rheological properties and microbiological characteristics of oil-in-water emulsions based on a mixture of 3% resveratrol 0.5% ferulic acid and 1mL alcoholic extract of Saffron. The tests led to the conclusion that O / W dermatocosmetic emulsions, based on 3% resveratrol and 0.5% ferulic acid, or also 1mL alcoholic extract of Saffron, show resistance to microbiological contamination, good rheological properties (viscoelastic behavior, structural stability, acceptable shearing behavior) that reveal satisfactory texture and high physical stability during storage. These results encourage the transition to dermatological testing as the final stage in considering a new commercial product.

Assessment of antioxidant and antiparkinsonian potential of a new diterpene isolated from Croton argyrophylloides

Oxidative stress is related to health problems including neurological and neurodegenerativedisturbs, such as Parkinson's disease. Natural compounds are reported as source of antioxidant molecules. Therefore, this study aimed to analyze the antioxidant and neuroprotective potential of a new diterpene isolated from C. argyrophylloides (MP-1). Male Wistar rats (250-300 g) were used to evaluate MP-1 antiparkinsonian potential through neurodegenerative model induced by the neurotoxin 6-hydroxydopamine (21 μg). On the 14th day, animals were submitted to behavioral tests and on the 15th day, brain areas were dissected to neurochemical analyzes. MP-1 demonstrated a high antioxidant capacity in vitro and decreased the parkinsonian effects, such as behavioral changes, motor alterations, and body weight loss. MP-1 was also able to control the upregulated levels of nitrosative stress and lipid peroxidation. These findings suggest MP-1 as a diterpene with high antioxidant capacity which might be used to development of new approach against Parkinson's disease.

Hydroalcoholic extract of Remijia ferruginea accelerates the closure of skin wounds by modulating tissue morphology and antioxidant profile: An in vitro and in vivo study

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE

Remijia ferruginea DC. (Rubiaceae) (syn. Cinchona ferruginea A.St.-Hil.) is used in traditional medicine for the treatment of wounds, fever and malaria.

AIM

This study investigated in vitro the proliferative and antioxidant effects of hydroalcoholic extract of leaves of R. ferruginea (HERF) and in vivo the healing effect of ointment based on HERF.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

The plant extract was characterized by liquid chromatography/mass spectrometry. Cell proliferation assays and in vitro antioxidant activity were performed. In in vivo assays, wound contraction ax was evaluated, as well as histological analyzes such as cellularity, proportion of blood vessels and collagen type I and III index. In addition, analyzes of the antioxidant enzymes SOD, CAT and GST were performed.

RESULTS

Our results showed in the chromatographic analysis that catechin, rutin and quercetin were the main phenolic compounds in the plant extract and may be responsible for the antioxidant and proliferative effects (p < 0.05). In addition, these compounds were found in higher concentration in leaves collected in spring. The ointment containing HERF was able to modulate tissue morphology, increasing cell proliferation, blood vessels, being able to stimulate the production of collagen fibers type I and III, (p < 0.05) contributing to scar tissue maturation and resistance.

CONCLUSION

Our findings indicated that the three doses of HERF tested (1%, 3% and 5%) can modulate the skin repair process, but the best effects were observed after exposure to the highest dose.

Nanostructured Electrospun Polycaprolactone-Propolis Mats Composed of Different Morphologies for Potential Use in Wound Healing

This study aimed to investigate different types of morphologies obtained using the electrospinning process to produce a material that enables wound healing while performing a controlled release. Using benign solvents, the authors prepared and characterised electrospun polycaprolactone mats loaded with propolis, a popular extract in traditional medicine with potential for skin repair. Different morphologies were obtained from distinct storage periods of the solution before electrospinning to investigate the effect of PCL hydrolysis (average diameters of fibres and beads: 159.2-280.5 nm and 1.9-5.6 μm, respectively). Phytochemical and FTIR analyses of the extract confirmed propolis composition. GPC and viscosity analyses showed a decrease in polymer molecular weight over the storage period (about a 70% reduction over 14 days) and confirmed that it was responsible for the nanostructure diversity. Moreover, propolis acted as a lubricant agent, affecting the spun solutions' viscosity and the thermal properties and hydrophilicity of the mats. All samples were within the value range of the water vapour transpiration rate of the commercial products (1263.08 to 2179.84 g/m²·day). Even though the presence of beads did not affect the propolis release pattern, an in vitro wound-healing assay showed that propolis-loaded mats composed of beaded fibres increased the cell migration process. Thus, these films could present the potential for use in wound dressing applications.

Epilobium angustifolium L. as a Potential Herbal Component of Topical Products for Skin Care and Treatment-A Review

Epilobium angustifolium L. (EA) has been used as a topical agent since ancient times. There has been an increasing interest in applying EA as a raw material used topically in recent years. However, in the literature, there are not many reports on the comprehensive application of this plant to skin care and treatment. EA contains many valuable secondary metabolites, which determine antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-aging, and antiproliferative activity effects. One of the most important active compounds found in EA is oenothein B (OeB), which increases the level of ROS and protects cells from oxidative damage. OeB also influences wound healing and reduces inflammation by strongly inhibiting hyaluronidase enzymes and inhibiting COX-1 and COX-2 cyclooxygenases. Other compounds that play a key role in the context of application to the skin are flavonoids, which inhibit collagenase and hyaluronidase enzymes, showing anti-aging and anti-inflammatory properties. While terpenes in EA play an important role in fighting bacterial skin infections, causing, among other things cell membrane, permeability increase as well as the modification of the lipid profiles and the alteration of the adhesion of the pathogen to the animal cells. The available scientific information on the biological potential of natural compounds can be the basis for the wider use of EA in skin care and treatment. The aim of the article is to review the existing literature on the dermocosmetic use of E. angustifolium.

Jelly Fig (Ficus awkeotsang Makino) Exhibits Antioxidative and Anti-Inflammatory Activities by Regulating Reactive Oxygen Species Production via NFκB Signaling Pathway

Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities of Ficus awkeotsang Makino extract (FAE) on Hs68 fibroblasts and BALB/c nude-mouse models are evaluated in this study. FAE was found to be non-toxic and showed high levels of DPPH, H₂O₂, and hydroxyl radical scavenging abilities; a ferrous chelating capacity; as well as ferric-reducing antioxidant capability. The antioxidant activity of FAE was strongly associated with polyphenolic content (flavonoids at 10.3 mg QE g⁻¹ and total phenol at 107.6 mg GAE g⁻¹). The anti-inflammatory activity of FAE and the underlying molecular mechanisms were also investigated. The a* value of the mouse dorsal skin after treatment with FAE at 1.5 mg/mL in addition to chronic UVB exposure was found to decrease by 19.2% during a ten-week period. The anti-inflammatory effect of FAE was evidenced by the decreased accumulation of inflammatory cells and skin thickness. Expression levels of UVB-induced inflammatory proteins, including ROS, NF-κB, iNOS, COX-2, and IL-6, were significantly reduced upon FAE treatment in vitro and in vivo. Collectively, our results suggest that the inhibition of ROS and UVB-induced activation of the NF-κB downstream signaling pathway by FAE, indicating considerable potential as a versatile adjuvant against free radical damage in pharmaceutical applications.

Triple Cross-Linked Hyaluronic Acid Based on Tri-Hyal Technique Has More Durable Effect on Dermal Renewal

Background

Hyaluronic acid (HA)-based fillers are applied to treat facial wrinkles and volume loss. Many efforts have been made to improve properties of HA to prolong the duration in aesthetic indications. A new cross-linking technique called “Tri-Hyal”, could make HAs to achieve desired rheological characteristics. HAs synthesized by Tri-Hyal are triple cross-linked and sustained-release, which could increase duration of promoting skin rejuvenation after injection.

Purpose

To evaluate the efficiency and persistence of HAs with Tri-Hyal on skin rejuvenation and further investigate underlying mechanisms, we compared the performances of cross-linked HA (AF) based on Tri-Hyal with another highly acceptable HA filler (Res) in vivo and in vitro.

Methods

Male BALB/c mice were divided into three groups, treated with AF, Res and vehicle, respectively. Skin biopsies were taken on day 0, 30, 90 and 180 after injection and hematoxylin and eosin (H&E), Masson’s trichrome (MT), immunohistochemical (IHC) stainings for CD31, TGF-β and MMP9 were performed. EdU incorporation, cell counting kit-8 (CCK-8), SA-β-Gal staining and activity were measured by biochemical analysis. RFP-GFP-LC3 adeno virus was used for autophagic flux detection. Protein levels of CD44, P62 and LC3I/II were detected by Western blot. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) level was detected by flow cytometry with DCFH-DA probe.

Results

The AF synthesized by Tri-Hyal showed persistent dermal structural correction without attenuation up to 6 months, which was illustrated by skin thickness, formation of elastic fibers and vascular density. Consistently, in fibroblasts the AF improved cell proliferation and slowed the senescent in vitro. Furthermore, it promoted cellular autophagy to reduce ROS level, which would account for its function in skin renewal.

Conclusion

The HA with Tri-Hyal could stimulate the production of extracellular matrix components more persistently than traditional HA fillers. In terms of mechanisms, it delayed senescence in dermal fibroblasts through reducing oxidative stress mediated by induction of autophagy.

HPLC–NMR-Based Chemical Profiling of Matricaria pubescens (Desf.) Schultz and Matricaria recutita and Their Protective Effects on UVA-Exposed Fibroblasts

The present study aimed to investigate the chemical profile and the protective activity on fibroblasts of two Matricaria species: M. pubescens, which grows wild in Algeria, and M. recutita, which is cultivated in Greece. A comparative phytochemical investigation using High-Performance Liquid Chromatography, coupled with Photodiode Array Detection and Mass Spectrometry (HPLC–PDA–MS) combined with Nuclear Magnetic Resonance (NMR), was performed for the identification of the main constituents in the flowerheads of these medicinal plants. In M. pubescens more than 25 compounds were identified and/or isolated; among them are quercetagenin-3-O-glucopyranoside, reported for the first time in Matricaria sp., and two polyamines previously reported in other Asteraceae species. In M. recutita, which is the officially recognized species in Europe, 19 constituents were identified. To minimize time analysis, the structure elucidation was based on a multi-analytical approach directly on subfractions. Two representative polar extracts from each species were characterized chemically and further screened for their protective effects on 3T3 fibroblasts. The cells were exposed to a mild toxic dose of UVA light (6 J/cm2), in the presence of different concentrations of the extracts. Both M. recutita and M. pubescens extracts were effective. The methanolic extract was the best protective agent at lower concentrations (0.1 to 10 μg/mL), and hydromethanolic was best at higher ones (100–200 μg/mL). M. recutita exhibited the most enhanced cell viability in relation to those not exposed to UV control; it ranged from of 28 to 49% higher viability, depending on the dose, leading to the conclusion that the latter seems to exhibit potent cytoprotective activity and significant regeneration activity.

Cosmeceutical Potential of Major Tropical and Subtropical Fruit By-Products for a Sustainable Revalorization

The increasing production of tropical fruits followed by their processing results in tons of waste, such as skins or seeds. However, these by-products have been reported to be rich in bioactive compounds (BACs) with excellent properties of interest in the cosmeceutical industry: antioxidant, anti-aging, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial and photoprotective properties. This review summarizes the tropical fruits most produced worldwide, their bioactive composition and the most important and studied therapeutic properties that their by-products can contribute to skin health, as well as the different approaches for obtaining these compounds using techniques by conventional (Soxhlet, liquid-liquid extraction or maceration) and non-conventional extractions (supercritical fluid extraction (SFE), ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE), microwave-assisted extraction (MAE), pressurized liquid extraction (PLE) and two-phase aqueous system), followed by their identification by HPLC-MS or GC-MS analysis. Moreover, this work encompasses several studies that may prove the effects of seeds and skins from tropical fruits against oxidative stress, hyperpigmentation, acne, aging or UV radiation. Therefore, the investigation of functional components present in tropical fruit by-products under a circular bioeconomy model could be of great interest for the cosmeceutical industry and a very promising option for obtaining new cosmeceutical formulations.

Association between HO‑1 gene promoter polymorphisms and diseases (Review)

Heme oxygenase‑1 (HO‑1) is an inducible cytoprotective enzyme that degrades heme into free iron, carbon monoxide and biliverdin, which is then rapidly converted into bilirubin. These degradation products serve an important role in the regulation of inflammation, oxidative stress and apoptosis. While the expression level of HO‑1 is typically low in most cells, it may be highly expressed when induced by a variety of stimulating factors, a process that contributes to the regulation of cell homeostasis. In the 5'‑non‑coding region of the HO‑1 gene, there are two polymorphic sites, namely the (GT)n dinucleotide and T(‑413)A single nucleotide polymorphism sites, which regulate the transcriptional activity of HO‑1. These polymorphisms have been shown to be closely associated with the occurrence and progression of numerous diseases, including cardiovascular, pulmonary, liver and kidney, various types of cancer and viral diseases. The present article reviews the progress that has been made in research on the association between the two types of polymorphisms and these diseases, which is expected to provide novel strategies for the diagnosis, treatment and prognosis of various diseases.

The Modulatory Influence of Plant-Derived Compounds on Human Keratinocyte Function

The plant kingdom is a rich source of secondary metabolites with numerous properties, including the potential to modify keratinocyte biology. Keratinocytes are important epithelial cells that play a protective role against various chemical, physical and biological stimuli, and participate in reactive oxygen scavenging and inflammation and wound healing processes. The epidermal cell response may be modulated by phytochemicals via changes in signal transduction pathways. Plant extracts and single secondary compounds can possess a high antioxidant capacity and may suppress reactive oxygen species release, inhibit pro-apoptotic proteins and apoptosis and activate antioxidant enzymes in keratinocytes. Moreover, selected plant extracts and single compounds also exhibit anti-inflammatory properties and exposure may result in limited production of adhesion molecules, pro-inflammatory cytokines and chemokines in keratinocytes. In addition, plant extracts and single compounds may promote keratinocyte motility and proliferation via the regulation of growth factor production and enhance wound healing. While such plant compounds may modulate keratinocyte functions, further in vitro and in vivo studies are needed on their mechanisms of action, and more specific toxicity and clinical studies are needed to ensure their effectiveness and safety for use on human skin.

The Feasibility of Utilizing Cultured Cordyceps militaris Residues in Cosmetics: Biological Activity Assessment of Their Crude Extracts

Solid-based residues (SBRs) left from harvesting the fruiting bodies of cultured Cordyceps mushrooms are a challenge to sustainability. Therefore, in this study, the SBRs from the cultivation of Cordyceps militaris (C. militaris) via solid-state fermentation (SSF) were employed to prepare crude extracts, with the aim of considering their possible use in cosmetics. The SBRs obtained from cultivation with solid media containing defatted rice bran mixed with barley, white rice, Riceberry rice, and wheat were named SBR-B, SBR-R, SBR-Rb, and SRB-W, respectively. They were extracted with solvents of differing polarity and then evaluated for their total phenolic content (TPC), total flavonoid content (TFC), and total carbohydrate content (TCC). In addition, antioxidant and tyrosinase inhibitory activities, photoprotection, and cytotoxicity were also assessed. The results revealed that the total bioactive contents and biological capacities of crude SBR extracts were significantly influenced by the types of SBR and extraction solvent (p < 0.05). The SBR-B extracted with hot water exhibited the highest antioxidant activity (66.62 ± 2.10, 212.00 ± 3.43, and 101.62 ± 4.42 mg TEAC/g extract) when assayed by DPPH, ABTS, and FRAP methods, respectively, whereas tyrosinase inhibitory activity (51.13 ± 1.11 mg KAE/g extract) with 90.43 ± 1.96% inhibition at 1 mg/mL was excellently achieved by SBR-Rb extracted by 50% (v/v) ethanol. Correlations between bioactive contents in the crude extracts and their biological activities were mostly proven at a strong level (p < 0.01). The capability of the crude extracts to absorb UV over the range of 290–330 nm disclosed their potential roles as natural UV absorbers and boosters. Cytotoxicity analysis using fibroblast cell lines tested with hot water and 50% (v/v) ethanolic SBR extracts demonstrated safe use within a concentration range of 0.001–10 mg/mL. Interestingly, their fibroblast proliferative capacity, indicating anti-aging properties, was highly promoted. The chemical composition analyzed via LC–MS/MS techniques showed that seven phenolic acids and four flavonoids were identified in the crude SBR extracts. Furthermore, the other compounds present included nucleosides, nucleobases, amino acids, sugars, phospholipids, alkaloids, organic acids, vitamins, and peptides. Therefore, it is emphasized that SBRs from C. militaris can be a prospective source for preparing crude extracts employed in cosmetics. Lastly, they could be further utilized as multifunctional ingredients in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals.

Effect of Pholiota nameko Polysaccharides Inhibiting Methylglyoxal-Induced Glycation Damage In Vitro

Advanced glycation end products (AGEs) can induce oxidative stress and inflammation. AGEs are major risk factors for the development of many aging-related diseases, such as cancer and diabetes. In this study, Pholiota nameko polysaccharides (PNPs) were prepared from water extract of P. nameko via graded alcohol precipitation (40%, 60%, and 80% v/v). We explored the in vitro antiglycation ability of the PNPs and inhibition of methylglyoxal (MG)-induced Hs68 cell damage. In a bovine serum albumin (BSA) glycation system, PNPs significantly inhibited the formation of Amadori products. Fluorescence spectrophotometry revealed that the PNPs trapped MG and reduced MG-induced changes in functional groups (carbonyl and ε-NH₂) in the BSA. Pretreating Hs68 cells with PNPs enhanced the cell survival rate and protected against MG-induced cell damage. This was due to decreased intracellular ROS content. PNPs thus mitigate skin cell damage and oxidative stress resulting from glycation stress, making them a potential raw material for antiaging-related skincare products.

Topical Artocarpus communis Nanoparticles Improved the Water Solubility and Skin Permeation of Raw A. communis Extract, Improving Its Photoprotective Effect

Antioxidants from plant extracts are often used as additives in skincare products to prevent skin problems induced by environmental pollutants. Artocarpus communis methanol extract (ACM) has many biological effects, such as antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, wound healing, and photoprotective effects; however, the poor water solubility of raw ACM has limited its applications in medicine and cosmetics. Topical antioxidant nanoparticles are one of the drug-delivery systems for overcoming the poor water solubility of antioxidants for increasing their skin penetration. The present study demonstrated that ACM-loaded hydroxypropyl-β-cyclodextrin and polyvinylpyrrolidone K30 nanoparticles (AHP) were successfully prepared and could effectively increase the skin penetration of ACM through changing the physicochemical characteristics of raw ACM, including reducing the particle size, increasing the surface area, and inducing amorphous transformation. Our results also revealed that AHP had significantly better antioxidant activity than raw ACM for preventing photocytotoxicity because the AHP formulation increased the cellular uptake of the ACM in UVB-irradiated HaCaT keratinocytes. In conclusion, our results suggest that AHP may be used as a good topical antioxidant nanoparticle for delivering ACM into deep layers of the skin for preventing UVB-induced skin problems.

Determination of Phenolic Content, Antioxidant Activity, and Tyrosinase Inhibitory Effects of Functional Cosmetic Creams Available on the Thailand Market

Recently, the global trend toward the use of natural extracts and antioxidant agents in the cosmetic cream industry to produce whitening effects has been increasing. This has also been a persistent trend in Thailand. In this study, samples of commercial cosmetic creams on the Thai market were assessed for a functional evaluation of their antioxidant activity, tyrosinase inhibitory effects, and phenolic contents. Samples were extracted using hot water and sonication extraction method to obtain the functional cream extracts. Total phenolic contents in all samples were within the range of 0.46-47.92 mg GAE/30 g cream. Antioxidant activities of the cream extracts were within the range of 3.61-43.98 mg Trolox equivalent/30 g cream, while tyrosinase inhibition activities were within the range of 2.58-97.94% of inhibition. With regard to the relationship between the total phenolic content and the antioxidant activity of the cosmetic creams, Pearson's correlation coefficient revealed a moderately positive relationship with an r value of 0.6108. Furthermore, the relationship between the antioxidant activity and the tyrosinase inhibitory activity of the cosmetic creams was highly positive with an r value of 0.7238. Overall, this study demonstrated that the total phenolic contents in the functional cosmetic creams could play a role in antioxidant activity and anti-tyrosinase activities. The findings indicate how the whitening and antioxidant effects of cosmetic creams could be maintained after the products have been formulated, as this concern can affect the consumer's decision when purchasing cosmetic products.