Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) as a Cosmeceutical to Increase Dermal Collagen for Skin Antiaging Purposes: Emerging Combination Therapies

Liposomal formulation of a vitamin C derivative: a promising strategy to increase skin permeability

This study describes the development of a novel liposomal formulation incorporating 3-O-ethyl-L-ascorbic acid (EAA), a derivative of vitamin C. The EAA-loaded liposomes were fully characterized, particle size and zeta potential values suitable for drug delivery. The skin penetration studies revealed that liposomal formulation enhanced EAA retention in the skin compared to free EAA. Additionally, the impact of topical treatments with liposomal EAA on photo-aging markers in skin explants was investigated. EAA charged liposomes display a protective or stimulatory effect on cellular metabolism. Finally, liposomal EAA have a significant effect on the inflamatory markers, reducing the extracellular matrix degradation associated with UV-induced damage of skin. These findings provide valuable insights into the potential of liposomal formulations for the development of advanced cosmetic products.

Vitamin C: A Comprehensive Review of Its Role in Health, Disease Prevention, and Therapeutic Potential

Since Albert Szent-Györgyi discovered it and it became used in treating scurvy, vitamin C has attracted interest in many studies due to its unique properties. It is an important cofactor in the synthesis of collagen and hormones, and it is involved in immunity, iron absorption, and processes requiring antioxidants. Thus, this review aims to emphasize the importance and usefulness of vitamin C in improving quality of life and preventing various diseases (e.g., chronic diseases, cardiovascular diseases, cancer) but also for its use in treatments against infections, neurodegenerative diseases, and cancer. Although the studies presented provide essential information about the properties of VIC and its beneficial effect on health, some studies contradict these theories. In this respect, further studies on larger samples and over a longer period are needed to demonstrate the therapeutic potential of this nutrient. However, VIC remains a necessary vitamin that should be consumed daily to maintain optimal health and prevent deficiencies that can lead to scurvy and its associated complications.

The state of the art in anti-aging: plant-based phytochemicals for skin care

Phytochemicals help mitigate skin aging by scavenging free radicals, modulating key enzymatic pathways, and promoting the skin's structural integrity. Carotenoids, vitamins, essential fatty acids, and phenolic compounds work by acting as antioxidants, inhibiting enzymes like hyaluronidase, collagenase, and elastase, which degrade skin structure, and reducing levels of inflammatory markers (IL-6, IL-8, etc.) and matrix metalloproteinases (MMP-1, MMP-2) linked to aging. Recent research highlights that plant-based phytochemicals can improve skin elasticity, reduce hyperpigmentation, prevent the breakdown of important skin proteins, and support wound healing, making them valuable components for skin care and treatments. This review explores the multifaceted roles of phytochemicals in maintaining and improving skin health, highlighting their mechanisms of action and potential in skin anti-aging innovations.

Fabrication of Thymoquinone and Ascorbic Acid-Loaded Spanlastics Gel for Hyperpigmentation: In Vitro Release, Cytotoxicity, and Skin Permeation Studies

Background/Objectives: The demand for a safe compound for hyperpigmentation is continuously increasing. Bioactive compounds such as thymoquinone (TQ) and ascorbic acid (AA) induce inhibition of melanogenesis with a high safety profile. The aim of this study was to design and evaluate spanlastics gel loaded with bioactive agents, TQ and AA, for the management of hyperpigmentation. Methods: Several spanlastics formulations were successfully fabricated and characterized in terms of morphology, vesicle size, zeta potential, and release. Results: The optimized TQ-loaded spanlastic formulation showed an average size of 223.40 ± 3.50 nm, and 133.00 ± 2.80 nm for AA-loaded spanlastic formulation. The optimized spanlastics formulation showed the highest entrapment efficiency (EE%) of 97.18 ± 2.02% and 93.08 ± 1.95%, for TQ and AA, respectively. Additionally, the edge activator concentration had a significant effect (p < 0.05) on EE%; it was found that by increasing the amount of EA, the EE% increases. Following that, the optimal spanlastics fomulation loaded with TQ and AA were incorporated into gel and explored for appearance, pH, spreadability, stability, rheology, in vitro release, ex vivo permeation study, and MTT cytotoxicity. The formulated spanlastics gel (R-1) has a pH of 5.53. Additionally, R-1 gel was significantly (p < 0.05) more spreadable than control gel, and exhibited a shear thinning behavior. Most importantly, ex vivo skin deposition studies confirmed superior skin deposition of TQ and AA from spanlastic gels. Additionally, results indicated that tyrosinase inhibition was primarily due to TQ. When comparing TQ alone with the TQ-AA combination, inhibition ranged from 18.35 to 42.73% and 24.28 to 42.53%, respectively. Both TQ spanlastics and the TQ-AA combination showed a concentration-dependent inhibition of tyrosinase. Conclusions: Spanlastic gel might represent a promising carrier for the dermal delivery of TQ and AA for the management of hyperpigmentation conditions.

Cyclodextrins and their potential applications for delivering vitamins, iron, and iodine for improving micronutrient status

Cyclodextrins (CDs) have been investigated as potential biopolymeric carriers that can form inclusion complexes with numerous bioactive ingredients. The inclusion of micronutrients (e.g. vitamins or minerals) into cyclodextrins can enhance their solubility and provide oxidative or thermal stability. It also enables the formulation of products with extended shelf-life. The designed delivery systems with CDs and their inclusion complexes including electrospun nanofibers, emulsions, liposomes, and hydrogels, show potential in enhancing the solubility and oxidative stability of micronutrients while enabling their controlled and sustained release in applications including food packaging, fortified foods and dietary supplements. Nano or micrometer-sized delivery systems capable of controlling burst release and permeation, or moderating skin hydration have been reported, which can facilitate the formulation of several personal and skin care products for topical or transdermal delivery of micronutrients. This review highlights recent developments in the application of CDs for the delivery of micronutrients, i.e. vitamins, iron, and iodine, which play key roles in the human body, emphasizing their existing and potential applications in the food, pharmaceuticals, and cosmeceuticals industries.

Quantum Sensing Unravels Antioxidant Efficacy Within PCL/Matrigel Skin Equivalents

Skin equivalents (SE) that recapitulate biological and mechanical characteristics of the native tissue are promising platforms for assessing cosmetics and studying fundamental biological processes. Methods to achieve SEs with well-organized structure, and ideal biological and mechanical properties are limited. Here, the combination of melt electrowritten PCL scaffolds and cell-laden Matrigel to fabricate SE is described. The PCL scaffold provides ideal structural and mechanical properties, preventing deformation of the model. The model consists of a top layer for seeding keratinocytes to mimic the epidermis, and a bottom layer of Matrigel-based dermal compartment with fibroblasts. The compressive modulus and the biological properties after 3-day coculture indicate a close resemblance with the native skin. Using the SE, a testing system to study the damage caused by UVA irradiation and evaluate antioxidant efficacy is established. The effectiveness of Tea polyphenols (TPs) and L-ascorbic acid (Laa) is compared based on free radical generation. TPs are demonstrated to be more effective in downregulating free radical generation. Further, T1 relaxometry is used to detect the generation of free radicals at a single-cell level, which allows tracking of the same cell before and after UVA treatment.

Antioxidant Effect of a Plant-Derived Extracellular Vesicles' Mix on Human Skin Fibroblasts: Induction of a Reparative Process

Plant-Derived Extracellular Vesicles extracellular vesicles (PDEVs) from organic agriculture (without the use of pesticides and microbicides) contain high levels of antioxidants. Organic PDEVs have shown an increased antioxidant power compared to PDEVs from single plants, suggesting a synergistic effect of the bioactives constitutively expressed in the PDEVs from single fruits. With this study, we wanted to investigate the beneficial effects of a mix of PDEVs on human skin cells. We found detectable levels of citric acid, ascorbic acid, glutathione, catalase, and SOD in a mix of PDEVs deriving from five different fruits (grape, red orange, papaya, pomegranate, and tangerine). We then treated H2O2-conditioned fibroblasts with the mix of PDEVs. The results showed that the PDEVs' mixture reverted the H2O2-induced redox imbalance, restoring mitochondrial homeostasis, with a strong reduction of mitochondrial anion superoxide and an increase in sirtuin levels. The antioxidant action was consistent with wound repair on a lesion produced in a fibroblast's monolayer. This result was consistent with an increased level of vimentin and matrix metalloproteinase-9, whose expression is directly related to the efficiency of the reparative processes. These data support a beneficial role of PDEVs in both preventing and treating skin injuries through their potent antioxidant and reparative activities.

Fluorescence and colorimetric rapid dual-signal "on-off-on" switching detection of ascorbic acid based on TSPP/DCIP

A fluorescence and colorimetric dual-signal sensing system for the determination of ascorbic acid (AA) in complex media was developed by using 5,10,15, 20-tetrakis(4-sulfonyl) porphyrin (TSPP) as a sensing probe and sodium 2,6-dichloroindophenol (DCIP) as a bridge. A fluorescence resonance energy transfer (FRET) effect occurred when DCIP was added to the TSPP solution, resulting in the quenching of the fluorescence signal of TSPP and a change in the color of the solution from pink to blue. The DCIP in the system reacted with AA in a redox reaction to produce colorless phenol imine, the color of the solution changed from blue to green causing an obvious colorimetric response, and the TSPP/DCIP sensing system's fluorescence signal restored owing to AA introduced. The fluorescence method for AA showed good linearity in the ranges 0.08 mM ~ 1 mM and 1 mM ~ 43.6 mM with a detection limit of 6.4 μM. And the colorimetric method for AA showed excellent linearity in the range 0.46 mM ~ 40.2 mM with a detection limit of 76.0 μM. The constructed "dual-signal" probe in the study has been successfully applied to the detection of AA in practical samples. The method proposed has great potential for practical applications and provides new ideas for the visual inspection of portable measurements.

Glycinamide Facilitates Nanocomplex Formation and Functions Synergistically with Bone Morphogenetic Protein 2 to Promote Osteoblast Differentiation In Vitro and Bone Regeneration in a Mouse Calvarial Defect Model

BACKGROUND

This study aimed to identify glycine analogs conducive to the formation of cell-absorbable nanocomplexes, enhancing collagen synthesis and subsequent osteogenesis in combination with BMP2 for improved bone regeneration.

METHODS

Glycine and its derivatives were assessed for their effects on osteogenic differentiation in MC3T3-E1 cells and human bone marrow mesenchymal stem cells (BMSCs) under osteogenic conditions or with BMP2. Osteogenic differentiation was assessed through alkaline phosphatase staining and real-time quantitative polymerase chain reaction (RT-qPCR). Nanocomplex formation was examined via scanning electron microscopy, circular dichroism, and ultraviolet-visible spectroscopy. In vivo osteogenic effects were validated using a mouse calvarial defect model, and bone regeneration was evaluated through micro-computed tomography and histomorphometric analysis.

RESULTS

Glycine, glycine methyl ester, and glycinamide significantly enhanced collagen synthesis and ALP activity in conjunction with an osteogenic medium (OSM). GA emerged as the most effective inducer of osteoblast differentiation marker genes. Combining GA with BMP2 synergistically stimulated ALP activity and the expression of osteoblast markers in both cell lines. GA readily formed nanocomplexes, facilitating cellular uptake through strong electrostatic interactions. In an in vivo calvarial defect mouse model, the GA and BMP2 combination demonstrated enhanced bone volume, bone volume/tissue volume ratio, trabecular numbers, and mature bone formation compared to other combinations.

CONCLUSION

GA and BMP2 synergistically promoted in vitro osteoblast differentiation and in vivo bone regeneration through nanocomplex formation. This combination holds therapeutic promise for individuals with bone defects, showcasing its potential for clinical intervention.

Synergistic delivery of hADSC-Exos and antioxidants has inhibitory effects on UVB-induced skin photoaging

Ultraviolet B (UVB) light exposure accelerates skin photoaging. Human adipose-derived stem cell exosomes (hADSC-Exos) and some antioxidants may have anti-photoaging effects. However, it is unknown whether the combination of hADSC-Exos and antioxidants plays a synergistic role in anti-photoaging. In cellular and 3D skin models, we showed that vitamin E (VE) and hADSC-Exos were optimal anti-photoaging combinations. In vivo, VE and hADSC-Exos increased skin tightening and elasticity in UVB-induced photoaging mice Combined treatment with VE and hADSC-Exos inhibited SIRT1/NF-κB pathway. These findings contribute to the understanding of hADSC-Exos in conjunction with other antioxidants, thereby providing valuable insights for the future pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries.

Iron oxide nanozymes enhanced by ascorbic acid for macrophage-based cancer therapy

In recent years, using pharmacological ascorbic acid has emerged as a promising therapeutic approach in cancer treatment, owing to its capacity to induce extracellular hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) production in solid tumors. The H2O2 is then converted into cytotoxic hydroxyl free radicals (HO˙) by redox-active Fe2+ inside cells. However, the high dosage of ascorbic acid required for efficacy is hampered by adverse effects such as kidney stone formation. In a recent study, we demonstrated the efficient catalytic conversion of H2O2 to HO˙ by wüstite (Fe1-xO) nanoparticles (WNPs) through a heterogenous Fenton reaction. Here, we explore whether WNPs can enhance the therapeutic potential of ascorbic acid, thus mitigating its dose-related limitations. Our findings reveal distinct pH dependencies for WNPs and ascorbic acid in the Fenton reaction and H2O2 generation, respectively. Importantly, WNPs exhibit the capability to either impede or enhance the cytotoxic effect of ascorbic acid, depending on the spatial segregation of the two reagents by cellular compartments. Furthermore, our study demonstrates that treatment with ascorbic acid promotes the polarization of WNP-loaded macrophages toward a pro-inflammatory M1 phenotype, significantly suppressing the growth of 4T1 breast cancer cells. This study highlights the importance of orchestrating the interplay between ascorbic acid and nanozymes in cancer therapy and presents a novel macrophage-based cell therapy approach.

Combined multilevel anti-aging strategies and practical applications of dermocosmetics in aesthetic procedures

Management of the signs of facial aging and other cosmetic skin problems have greatly evolved in the past years. People are also seeking to improve their well-being and global skin appearance, and when they consider using cosmetic procedures, they expect natural and long-lasting aesthetic results. Combined dermocosmetic approaches that address the signs of facial aging at all levels are increasingly being used by dermatologists to meet patient expectations while ensuring their safety. Minimally invasive and reversible procedures that can be performed in only one session are popular approaches for skin restructuring and volumizing as they are flexible, rapid and less burdensome for patients. These interventions can achieve even better outcomes when they are combined with cosmeceuticals as pre- or post-procedural adjuvants to prepare the skin, accelerate recovery and sustain results. The use of topical dermocosmetics is also recommended as part of the daily skin care routine to improve skin quality and help maintain skin barrier function. This review thus outlines the most commonly used combined multilevel anti-aging strategies, which start by addressing the deepest skin layers and then the more superficial signs of skin aging. Examples of multi-active cosmeceuticals and skin delivery enhancing systems are also presented, together with examples of the use of dermocosmetics as supportive care for aesthetic procedures, to provide insights into current applications of dermocosmetic products.

Intradermal Treatment with a Hyaluronic Acid Complex Supplemented with Amino Acids and Antioxidant Vitamins Improves Cutaneous Hydration and Viscoelasticity in Healthy Subjects

Intradermal injection of bioactive compounds is used to reduce the effects of aging skin. The aim of this work is to study the response of facial injection of a hyaluronic acid complex supplemented with amino acids and antioxidant vitamins on skin rejuvenation. A total of 40 healthy adult subjects were recruited to whom this complex was injected into the facial skin, three consecutive times every two weeks. Together with assessing the degree of skin hydration, the level of skin microcirculation, wrinkles, skin color, and skin biomechanical parameters were evaluated. Using the GAIS scale, the degree of satisfaction of the participants was assessed. At 42 days (D42), there was an 11-12% increase in skin hydration and viscoelasticity, a 23% increase in skin density, a 27% increase in skin microcirculation, and a significant lightening and whitening of skin color, but without causing changes in skin wrinkles. A value between 1 and 3 on the GAIS scale was observed between 70 and 92% of the participants, and 87% of subjects found their skin more beautiful, 85% would recommend this treatment, and more than 50% found their face rejuvenated. In summary, the intradermal treatment tested suggests skin rejuvenation, with a good degree of safety.

Research on Application of Japanese Quince (Chaenomeles L.) and Pork Collagen in Dark Chocolate-Benefits in Prevention of Inflammation In Vitro Model

In the present study, the effect of the addition of quince and collagen type I and III to dessert chocolate on its functional properties was determined. The study evaluated the antioxidant potential of the tested formulations using the FRAP method and the linoleic acid oxidation test and beta-carotene bleaching test. The tested samples were also evaluated for inhibitory activity against enzymes important in preventive health (inflammation and neurodegenerative disorders) namely: AChE, BChE, GR, GPx, COX, and SOD. The addition of quince and collagen to the chocolate samples resulted in higher activity compared to the control sample, as indicated by the FRAP test. The experiment highlighted the impact of including quince fruit on the antioxidant activity of the chocolate samples. Interestingly, merely increasing the quince fruit amount did not consistently enhance antioxidant potential. Specifically, chocolate samples with a lower proportion of quince fruit (2 g/100 g) exhibited greater antioxidant activity when supplemented with collagen I. Conversely, in samples with higher quince percentages (3 g and 4 g), those enriched with collagen III showed higher antioxidant activity. Similar correlations were observed in the linoleic acid oxidation test. Notably, samples containing 3 g and 4 g of quince and type III collagen demonstrated statistically similar highest antioxidant properties. Regardless of the collagen type used, there was no observed increase in activity towards the tested enzymes for samples with the lowest percentage of quince fruit. Both collagen types exhibited the highest activity in the inhibition assay against acetylcholinesterase and butyrylcholinesterase when combined with 3 g and 4 g of quince. Overall, the experimental incorporation of both fruit and collagen enhanced the chocolates' activity. Similarly to the antioxidant activity findings, chocolates with lower quince fruit quantities showed increased activity when supplemented with collagen III, while those with higher quince content (3 g and 4 g) displayed higher activity with collagen I. Bitter chocolate by itself is an attractive food product, rich in many bioactive compounds. However, enriching it with other attractive raw materials can make its properties and taste even more attractive.

Nanolevel of detection of ascorbic acid using horse-radish peroxidase inhibition assay

Ascorbic acid plays a significant role in regulation of various bodily functions with high concentrations in immune cells and being involved in connective tissue maintenance. Commonly it is detected through various colorimetric methods. In this study, we propose a one-step simple method based on the inhibitory activity of ascorbic acid on horseradish peroxidase and hydrogen peroxide. The detection is observed by colorimetric changes to TMB (3,3',5,5' tetramethylbenzidine). The enzyme inhibition unit was optimized with a high level of linearity (r2 = 0.9999) and the level of detection and level of quantification were found to be 1.35 nM and 4.08 nM, respectively with higher sensitive compared to the HPLC method (11 μM). Both intra and inter-assays showed high correlations at different AA concentrations. (r2 > 0.9999). Similar results were also observed for vitamin C tablets, ascorbate salts, fruits, and market products (r2 = 0.999). There was negligible effect of interference by citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acids, and glucose with high recoveries (>98%) at 1 mg/mL to 0.0078 mg/mL concentration ranges. The recovery error (RE%) was found to be less than 10%. Our detection method is distinguished by its simplicity, nano-level of detection, reproducibility, and potential application and adaptability as a point-of-use test.

A Lombard Variety of Sweet Pepper Regulating Senescence and Proliferation: The Voghera Pepper

Aging and its related disorders are important issues nowadays and the first cause of this physio-pathological condition is the overproduction of ROS. Ascorbic acid is an antioxidant mediator and its anti-aging proprieties are well known. Our previous data demonstrated that Voghera sweet pepper (VP), a distinctive type of pepper cultivated in Italy, is particularly rich in ascorbic acid. Based on these data, the anti-aging effect mediated by extracts of the edible part of VP was evaluated on an in vitro model of both young and old Normal Human Diploid Fibroblasts (NHDF). Using phase contrast microscopy, we observed that VP may help cells in the maintenance of physiological morphology during aging. Cytofluorimetric analyses revealed that VP extracts led to an increase in DNA synthesis and percentage of living cells, linked to a consequent increase in mitotic events. This hypothesis is supported by the enhancement of PCNA expression levels observed in old, treated fibroblasts, corroborating the idea that this extract could recover a young phenotype in adult fibroblasts, confirmed by the study of p16 and p53 expression levels and TEM analyses. Based on these results, we may suppose that VP can lead to the partial recovery of "young-like" phenotypes in old fibroblasts.

Developing Plant Exosomes as an Advanced Delivery System for Cosmetic Peptide

Peptides are a promising skincare ingredient, but due to their inherent instability and the barrier function of the skin's surface, they often have limited skin absorption and penetration, which can significantly hinder their skincare benefits. To address this, a novel technique called NanoGlow has been introduced for encapsulating peptide-based cosmetic raw materials into engineered nanosized plant-derived exosomes (pExo) to achieve the goal of a healthier and more radiant skin state. In this approach, pExo served as carriers for cosmetic peptides across the intact skin barrier, enhancing their biological effectiveness in skin beauty. The NanoGlow strategy combines chemical activation and physical proencapsulation, boasting a high success rate and straightforward and stable operation, making it suitable for large-scale production. Comprehensive analysis using in vitro cellular absorption and skin penetration models has demonstrated that the nanosized pExo carriers significantly improve peptide penetration into the skin compared to free peptides. Furthermore, in vivo tissue slice studies have shown that pExo carriers efficiently deliver acetyl hexapeptide-8 to the skin's dermis, surpassing the performance of free peptides. Cosmetic skincare effect analysis has also indicated that pExo-loaded cosmetic peptides deliver superior results. Therefore, the NanoGlow technique harnesses the natural size and properties of pExo to maximize the bioavailability of cosmetic peptides, holding great promise for developing advanced peptide delivery systems in both the cosmetic and medical drug industries.

The Chemical Profiles and Antioxidant Properties of Live Fruit or Vegetable Vinegars Available on the Polish Food Market

Live vinegar is a product formed through a two-step fermentation process of a sugar substrate that has not been subjected to filtration or pasteurization. This is considered to preserve all nutrients and biologically active microorganisms, making it a product with a valuable composition and beneficial properties. Therefore, the purpose of this study was to analyze the chemical composition and antioxidant properties of the selected vinegars available on the Polish food market. The material in the study consisted of four live (naturally turbid, unfiltered, unpasteurized) fruit or vegetable vinegars: apple, pear, rhubarb, and lemon. Spectrophotometric, HPLC, and GC methods were used. Among the vinegars tested, lemon vinegar had the highest vitamin C content-15.95 mg/100 mL. Apple vinegar proved to be the best source of polyphenols and flavonoids (TPC-191.97 mg GAE/L, TFC-70.22 mg RE/L). All of the vinegars contained dihydroxybenzoic acid, 4-hydroxybenzoic acid, caffeic acid, 2-hydroxycinnamic acid, and myricetin. The acetic acid content of the tested vinegars ranged from 29.180 to 38.125 mM/L. The pH values ranged from 3.14 to 3.41. In conclusion, the most promising nutraceutical with potentially beneficial health-promoting properties seems to be apple vinegar.

A Color-Detectable Vitamin C Controlled-Release System Fabricated Using Electrospinning

This study develops a vitamin C controlled-release system, trackable via color changes as a function of vitamin C release. The system is composed of coaxial microfibers prepared via coaxial electrospinning, with a core of poly(ethylene oxide) (PEO) incorporating vitamin C, and a shell composed of polycaprolactone (PCL) containing polydiacetylene (PDA) as the color-changing material. The shell thickness is controlled by adjusting the amount of PCL ejected during electrospinning, allowing regulation of the release rate of vitamin C. When vitamin C added to PEO penetrates the PCL layer, the color of PDA changes from blue to red, indicating a color change. The results of this study can be applied to devices that require immediate detection of vitamin C release levels.

The Effect of Phenolic-Rich Extracts of Rubus fruticosus, R. ulmifolius and Morus nigra on Oxidative Stress and Caco-2 Inhibition Growth

Currently, a clear interest has been given to berries due to their richness in active metabolites, including anthocyanins and non-coloured phenolics. Therefore, the main aim of the present work is to investigate the phenolic profile, antioxidant abilities, and antiproliferative effects on normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDF) and human colon carcinoma cell line (Caco-2) cells of phenolic-rich extracts from three red fruits highly appreciated by consumers: two species of blackberries (Rubus fruticosus and Rubus ulmifolius) and one species of mulberry (Morus nigra). A total of 19 different phenolics were identified and quantified by HPLC-DAD-ESI/MSn and HPLC-DAD, respectively. Focusing on the biological potential of the phenolic-rich extracts, all of them revealed notable scavenging abilities. Concerning the antiproliferative properties, R. fruticosus presented a cytotoxic selectivity for Caco-2 cells compared to NHDF cells. To deeper explore the biological potential, combinations with positive controls (ascorbic acid and 5-fluorouracil) were also conducted. Finally, the obtained data are another piece of evidence that the combination of phenolic-rich extracts from natural plants with positive controls may reduce clinical therapy costs and the possible toxicity of chemical drugs.

The roles of gut microbiome and metabolites associated with skin photoaging in mice by intestinal flora sequencing and metabolomics

Photoaging of skin, a chronic disease, can produce the appearance changes and cancer lesions of skin. Therefore, it is of great significance to investigate the mechanisms and explore effective methods to treat the disorder. Gut microbiota and intestinal metabolisms have critical roles in a variety of diseases. However, their roles on photoaging of skin were not well tested. In the present work, the results showed that compared with control group, the levels of MDA, SOD and CAT associated with oxidative stress, the levels of COL I, CER, and HA associated with skin function, and the mRNA levels of IL-1β, IL-6, TNF-α associated with inflammation after long-term exposure to ultraviolet radiation in mice were significantly changed. Skin pathological tissue was also seriously damaged. The protein levels of AQP3 and FLG were significantly decreased. Ultraviolet exposure also promoted skin photoaging by activating TNFR1/TRAF2-mediated MAPK pathway, in which the protein levels of P38/P-P38, c-FOS/P-c-FOS, MMP1, TNFR1 and TRAF2 were significantly increased in model mice compared with control group. In fecal microbiota transplantation (FMT) experiment, we found that the intestinal microbiome of control mice alleviated skin photoaging via adjusting the protein levels of P38/P-P38, c-FOS/P-c-FOS, MMP1, TNFR1 and TRAF2. 16S rRNA sequencing found that 1639 intestinal bacteria were found, in which 15 bacteria including norank_f_Ruminococcaceae, Lachnospirac -eae_NK4A136_group, Lachnoclostridium, etc., were significantly different at the genus level. Untargeted GC-TOF/MS and UHPLC-MS/MS metabolomics showed 72 and 188 metabolites including taurine, ornithine, L-arginine, L-histidine, sucrose with significant differences compared with control group. Then, amino acid targeting assay showed 10 amino acids including L-ornithine, L-arginine and L-citrulline with higher levels in control group compared with model group. In addition, we also found that the variation of Lachnoclostridium abundance may regulate L-arginine metabolism to affect skin photoaging. Some intestinal bacteria and metabolites including amino acids may be closely related to skin photoaging, which should provide new methods to treat skin photoaging in the future.

Aging in the dermis: Fibroblast senescence and its significance

Skin aging is characterized by changes in its structural, cellular, and molecular components in both the epidermis and dermis. Dermal aging is distinguished by reduced dermal thickness, increased wrinkles, and a sagging appearance. Due to intrinsic or extrinsic factors, accumulation of excessive reactive oxygen species (ROS) triggers a series of aging events, including imbalanced extracellular matrix (ECM) homeostasis, accumulation of senescent fibroblasts, loss of cell identity, and chronic inflammation mediated by senescence-associated secretory phenotype (SASP). These events are regulated by signaling pathways, such as nuclear factor erythroid 2-related factor 2 (Nrf2), mechanistic target of rapamycin (mTOR), transforming growth factor beta (TGF-β), and insulin-like growth factor 1 (IGF-1). Senescent fibroblasts can induce and accelerate age-related dysfunction of other skin cells and may even cause systemic inflammation. In this review, we summarize the role of dermal fibroblasts in cutaneous aging and inflammation. Moreover, the underlying mechanisms by which dermal fibroblasts influence cutaneous aging and inflammation are also discussed.

Ascorbic Acid Treatments as Effective and Safe Anti-Aging Therapies for Sensitive Skin

The most common signs of aging skin include a decrease in firmness and density, uneven skin tone, and a tendency to erythema. There is an ever-increasing interest in aesthetic treatments that maintain the skin's favorable appearance. However, such therapies are difficult in the case of sensitive skin, defined as a set of stimuli-triggered symptoms (stinging, erythema, burning, and itching) that would not appear in healthy skin. Sensitive skin is common and affects, to varying degrees, about half of the European population. This study was aimed at evaluating the effects of ascorbic acid-a known antioxidant-applied with sonophoresis and microneedling on the signs of photoaging in reactive and erythematous skin. A significant improvement in skin elasticity was observed after a series of tests. A significant reduction in erythema was observed after both therapies. The greatest reduction was observed on the cheeks after applying vitamin C combined with microneedling. At the same time, the results showed an excellent tolerance of both treatments, which proved them to be safe and effective.

Insights into How Plant-Derived Extracts and Compounds Can Help in the Prevention and Treatment of Keloid Disease: Established and Emerging Therapeutic Targets

Keloid is a disease in which fibroblasts abnormally proliferate and synthesize excessive amounts of extracellular matrix, including collagen and fibronectin, during the healing process of skin wounds, causing larger scars that exceed the boundaries of the original wound. Currently, surgical excision, cryotherapy, radiation, laser treatment, photodynamic therapy, pressure therapy, silicone gel sheeting, and pharmacotherapy are used alone or in combinations to treat this disease, but the outcomes are usually unsatisfactory. The purpose of this review is to examine whether natural products can help treat keloid disease. I introduce well-established therapeutic targets for this disease and various other emerging therapeutic targets that have been proposed based on the phenotypic difference between keloid-derived fibroblasts (KFs) and normal epidermal fibroblasts (NFs). We then present recent studies on the biological effects of various plant-derived extracts and compounds on KFs and NFs. Associated ex vivo, in vivo, and clinical studies are also presented. Finally, we discuss the mechanisms of action of the plant-derived extracts and compounds, the pros and cons, and the future tasks for natural product-based therapy for keloid disease, as compared with existing other therapies. Extracts of Astragalus membranaceus, Salvia miltiorrhiza, Aneilema keisak, Galla Chinensis, Lycium chinense, Physalis angulate, Allium sepa, and Camellia sinensis appear to modulate cell proliferation, migration, and/or extracellular matrix (ECM) production in KFs, supporting their therapeutic potential. Various phenolic compounds, terpenoids, alkaloids, and other plant-derived compounds could modulate different cell signaling pathways associated with the pathogenesis of keloids. For now, many studies are limited to in vitro experiments; additional research and development are needed to proceed to clinical trials. Many emerging therapeutic targets could accelerate the discovery of plant-derived substances for the prevention and treatment of keloid disease. I hope that this review will bridge past, present, and future research on this subject and provide insight into new therapeutic targets and pharmaceuticals, aiming for effective keloid treatment.

Collagen study advances for photoaging skin

BACKGROUND

Collagen dominates the skin's extracellular matrix (ECM). Type I collagen comprises 80%-90% of the skin's collagen, followed by type III (8%-12%) and type V (5%). Reactive oxygen species, matrix metalloproteinases, and collagen degradation all increase during photoaging, which disrupts the ECM's dynamic balance and lowers the amount of total collagen in the body. In recent years, domestic and foreign researchers have conducted multidimensional and multifaceted studies on collagen and skin photoaging. Collagen and the peptides that are derivates of it are currently being used more and more in biomedicine and medical esthetics.

OBJECTIVE

Offering new suggestions for both the avoidance and remedy of photoaging.

METHODS

This article reviews collagen and its potential connection to skin photoaging, illustrates the effects of collagen and peptide supplementation derivatives on photoaged skin, and briefly describes other compounds that can also be used to fight photoaging by increasing collagen synthesis in the skin.

RESULT

Both internal and external aging are inevitable, and as the main component of extracellular matrix, collagen plays a variety of functions in maintaining skin structure and fighting skin aging, and its role in photoaging is undeniable. Ultraviolet radiation can induce increased fragmentation and degradation of cutaneous collagen, while conversely, supplementation with collagen can effectively counteract photodamage-induced skin impairment.

CONCLUSION

Collagen and its derived peptides are indispensable in photoaging skin, holding promising prospects for applications in skin aging.

Research Progress in Skin Aging, Metabolism, and Related Products

In recent years, skin aging has received increasing attention. Many factors affect skin aging, and research has shown that metabolism plays a vital role in skin aging, but there needs to be a more systematic review. This article reviews the interaction between skin metabolism and aging from the perspectives of glucose, protein, and lipid metabolism and explores relevant strategies for skin metabolism regulation. We found that skin aging affects the metabolism of three major substances, which are glucose, protein, and lipids, and the metabolism of the three major substances in the skin also affects the process of skin aging. Some drugs or compounds can regulate the metabolic disorders mentioned above to exert anti-aging effects. Currently, there are a variety of products, but most of them focus on improving skin collagen levels. Skin aging is closely related to metabolism, and they interact with each other. Regulating specific metabolic disorders in the skin is an important anti-aging strategy. Research and development have focused on improving collagen levels, while the regulation of other skin glycosylation and lipid disorders including key membrane or cytoskeleton proteins is relatively rare. Further research and development are expected.

The Anti-Inflammatory Action of Cannabigerol Accompanied by the Antioxidant Effect of 3-O-ethyl Ascorbic Acid in UVA-Irradiated Human Keratinocytes

Excessive daily exposure of human skin to natural UVA radiation leads to impaired redox homeostasis in epidermal keratinocytes, resulting in changes in their proteome. Commonly used antioxidants usually exhibit protection in a narrowed range, which makes it necessary to combine their effects. Therefore, the aim of this study was to analyze the protective effect of cannabigerol (CBG) and 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid (EAA), used separately and together, on the proteomic profile of UVA irradiated keratinocytes. Proteomic analysis with the use of the Q Exactive HF mass spectrometer, combined with biostatistic tests, performed on UVA-irradiated keratinocytes indicated enhanced and lowered expression of 186 and 160 proteins, respectively. CBG treatment after UVA irradiation reduced these numbers to 110 upregulated and 49 downregulated proteins, while EAA eliminated all these changes. CBG completely eliminated the UV-induced effect on the expression of pro-inflammatory proteins and significantly increased the level of proteins responsible for cellular locomotion. On the other hand, CBG reduced the level of UVA-induced 4-hydroxynonenal protein adducts fivefold, whereas EAA had no effect on this modification. At the same time, CBG and EAA did not modify the expression/structure of proteins in relation to the nonirradiated control keratinocytes in the case of an unaccompanied use or slightly modified the protein profile when used in a mixture. The combined protective effects of CBG on protein structure and EAA on protein expression profile allowed us to obtain a wider protection of cells against UVA radiation, compared with when the compounds were used alone. SIGNIFICANCE STATEMENT: Proteomic analysis of human skin cells allows to conclude that 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid eliminates UVA-induced changes in the expression of keratinocyte proteins, while cannabigerol significantly reduces 4-hydroxynonenal protein adducts. The combined protective effects of cannabigerol on protein structure and of 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid on protein expression profile allowed to obtain a wider protection of cells against UVA radiation.

Biomolecular and cellular effects in skin wound healing: the association between ascorbic acid and hypoxia-induced factor

The skin serves as a barrier to protect the body from environmental microorganisms and is the largest tissue of the body and any damage must be quickly and effectively repaired. The fundamental purpose of dermal fibroblasts is to produce and secrete extracellular matrix, which is crucial for healing wounds. The production of collagen by dermal fibroblasts requires the cofactor ascorbic acid, a free radical scavenger. In skin wounds, the presence of Ascorbic acid (AA) decreases the expression of pro-inflammatory factors and increases the expression of wound-healing factors. In addition, AA plays an important role in all three phases of wound healing, including inflammation, proliferation, and regeneration. On the other hand, growing evidence indicates that hypoxia improves the wound healing performance of mesenchymal stem cell-conditioned medium compared to the normoxic-conditioned medium. In a hypoxic-conditioned medium, the proliferation and migration of endothelial cells, fibroblasts, and keratinocytes (important cells in accelerating skin wound healing) increase. In this review, the role of AA, hypoxia, and their interactions on wound healing will be discussed and summarized by the in vitro and in vivo studies conducted to date.

Specnuezhenide ameliorates ultraviolet-induced skin photoaging in mice by regulating the Sirtuin 3/8-Oxoguanine DNA glycosylase signal

PURPOSE

Ultraviolet-induced skin photoaging was involved in DNA oxidative damage. Specnuezhenide, one of the secoiridoids extracted from Ligustri Lucidi Fructus, possesses antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects. Whether specnuezhenide ameliorates skin photoaging remains unclear. This study aimed to investigate the effect of specnuezhenide on skin photoaging induced by ultraviolet and explore the underlying mechanism.

METHODS

Mice were employed to treat with ultraviolet to induce skin photoaging, then administrated 10 and 20 mg/kg of specnuezhenide. Histological analysis, protein expression, network pharmacology, and autodock analysis were conducted.

RESULTS

Specnuezhenide ameliorated ultraviolet-induced skin photoaging in mice via the increase in collagen contents, and decrease in epidermal thickness, malondialdehyde content, and β-galactosidase expression in the skin. Specnuezhenide reduced cutaneous apoptosis and inflammation in mice with skin photoaging. In addition, network pharmacology data indicated that specnuezhenide possessed potential targets on the NOD-like receptor signaling pathway. Validation experiment found that specnuezhenide inhibited the expression of NOD-like receptor family pyrin domain-containing 3, gasdermin D-C1, and Caspase 1. Furthermore, the expression of 8-Oxoguanine DNA glycosylase (OGG1), sirtuin 3 (SIRT3), and superoxide dismutase 2 was increased in specnuezhenide-treated mice with photoaging.

CONCLUSION

Specnuezhenide protected against ultraviolet-induced skin photoaging in mice via a probable activation of SIRT3/OGG1 signal.

The Study of the Cytotoxicity, Proliferative and Microbiological Activity of the Medicated Chewing Gum with Ascorbic Acid and Lysozyme Hydrochloride Using Different Culture of Cells

Medicated chewing gum with lysozyme hydrochloride and ascorbic acid as active pharmaceutical ingredients was developed for application in dentistry. The aim of this research was to study the cytotoxicity, proliferative, and microbiological activities of the active ingredients in different types of cell cultures. The preclinical study of active pharmaceutical ingredients and their combinations was carried out using culture lines such as HepG2 (human hepatocarcinoma cells), Hek293 (human embryonic kidney cells), and MAEC (mouse aortic endothelial cells). MTT assays were used to analyse cytotoxicity and proliferative activity, while the state of antioxidant protection was assessed by the content of sulfhydryl groups and catalase activity. The determination of lipid peroxidation products was based on the level of TBA-active products. As a microbiological model for studying the effect of the developed dental medicine on the ability of the oral cavity microorganisms to form biofilms, the following strains were used: Streptococcus mutans, Staphylococcus aureus, Staphylococcus epidermidis, Lactobacillus plantarum, and Candida albicans. The optical density of the formed biofilm was evaluated by the intensity of the experimental sample's colour on a StatFax 303 Plus photometer at a wavelength of 630 nm. The combination of ascorbic acid and lysozyme hydrochloride in the established concentrations (20 mg and 10 mg per 1 gum, respectively) resulted in a slight stimulation of cell proliferation without any toxic effects and increased antioxidant protection, preventing the development of oxidative stress. It was found that, in contrast to the separately used active substances, the combination of lysozyme hydrochloride and ascorbic acid inhibits the biofilm formation of all studied microorganisms and shows the ability to destroy diurnal biofilms of L. plantarum and fungi of the genus Candida, indicating potentiation and summation of the active pharmaceutical ingredients' composition effects in the developed dental medicine. Due to the observed positive pharmacological and microbiological action, the combination of lysozyme hydrochloride and ascorbic acid in the medicated chewing gum serves as a promising tool for the prevention and treatment of infectious and inflammatory diseases of the periodontium and mucous membranes and the prevention of caries.

Chronic Wound Healing Models

In this paper, we review and analyze the commonly available wound healing models reported in the literature and discuss their advantages and issues, considering their relevance and translational potential to humans. Our analysis includes different in vitro and in silico as well as in vivo models and experimental techniques. We further explore the new technologies in the study of wound healing to provide an all encompassing review of the most efficient ways to proceed with wound healing experiments. We revealed that there is not one model of wound healing that is superior and can give translatable results to human research. Rather, there are many different models that have specific uses for studying certain processes or stages of wound healing. Our analysis suggests that when performing an experiment to assess stages of wound healing or different therapies to enhance healing, one must consider not only the species that will be used but also the type of model and how this can best replicate the physiology or pathophysiology in humans.

Ultraviolet exposure regulates skin metabolome based on the microbiome

Skin metabolites (< 1500 Da) play a critical role in barrier function, hydration, immune response, microbial invasion, and allergen penetration. We aimed to understand the global metabolic profile changes of the skin in relation to the microbiome and UV exposure and exposed germ-free (devoid of microbiome), disinfected mice (partially devoid of skin microbiome) and control mice with intact microbiome to immunosuppressive doses of UVB radiation. Targeted and untargeted lipidome and metabolome profiling was performed with skin tissue by high-resolution mass spectrometry. UV differentially regulated various metabolites such as alanine, choline, glycine, glutamine, and histidine in germ-free mice compared to control mice. Membrane lipid species such as phosphatidylcholine, phosphatidylethanolamine, and sphingomyelin were also affected by UV in a microbiome-dependent manner. These results shed light on the dynamics and interactions between the skin metabolome, microbiome, and UV exposure and open new avenues for the development of metabolite- or lipid-based applications to maintain skin health.

Bioactivity and applications of saffron floral bio-residues (tepals): a natural by-product for the food, pharmaceutical, and cosmetic industries

Saffron "Crocus sativus" is a plant of the Iridaceae family. Its therapeutic virtues have been known since antiquity; it is used in traditional medicine and culinary preparations. It is also known for its use in cosmetics because of its beneficial pharmacological activities for human skin. In particular, saffron tepals are the main by-product of saffron processing; they contain several bioactive compounds such as mineral agents, anthocyanins, monoterpenoids, carotenoids, flavonoids, and flavonols (kaempferol). This review aims to describe the different properties of saffron flower tepals, including their botanical characteristics, phytochemical composition, biological activities, and cosmetology and perfumery uses.

Preclinical study models of psoriasis: State-of-the-art techniques for testing pharmaceutical products in animal and nonanimal models

Local and systemic treatments exist for psoriasis, but none can do more than control its symptoms because of its numerous unknown mechanisms. The lack of validated testing models or a defined psoriatic phenotypic profile hinders antipsoriatic drug development. Despite their intricacy, immune-mediated diseases have no improved and precise treatment. The treatment actions may now be predicted for psoriasis and other chronic hyperproliferative skin illnesses using animal models. Their findings confirmed that a psoriasis animal model could mimic a few disease conditions. However, their ethical approval concerns and inability to resemble human psoriasis rightly offer to look for more alternatives. Hence, in this article, we have reported various cutting-edge techniques for the preclinical testing of pharmaceutical products for the treatment of psoriasis.

Ascorbic Acid-Caused Quenching Effect of Protein Clusteroluminescence Probe: The Fast Fluorescent Detection of Ascorbic Acid in Vegetables

It is interesting and meaningful to explore fluorescent probes for novel rapid detection methods. In this study, we discovered a natural fluorescence probe, bovine serum albumin (BSA), for the assay of ascorbic acid (AA). Due to clusterization-triggered emission (CTE), BSA has the character of clusteroluminescence. AA shows an obvious fluorescence quenching effect on BSA, and the quenching effect increases with increasing concentrations of AA. After optimization, a method for the rapid detection of AA is established by the AA-caused fluorescence quenching effect. The fluorescence quenching effect reaches saturation after 5 min of incubation time and the fluorescence is stable within more than one hour, suggesting a rapid and stable fluorescence response. Moreover, the proposed assay method shows good selectivity and a wide linear range. To further study the mechanisms of AA-caused fluorescence quenching effect, some thermodynamic parameters are calculated. The main intermolecular force between BSA and AA is electrostatic, presumably leading to the inhibiting CTE process of BSA. This method also shows acceptable reliability for the real vegetable sample assay. In summary, this work will not only provide an assay strategy for AA, but also open an avenue for the application expansion of CTE effect of natural biomacromolecules.

Melanocortin therapies to resolve fibroblast-mediated diseases

Stromal cells have emerged as central drivers in multiple and diverse diseases, and consequently, as potential new cellular targets for the development of novel therapeutic strategies. In this review we revise the main roles of fibroblasts, not only as structural cells but also as players and regulators of immune responses. Important aspects like fibroblast heterogeneity, functional specialization and cellular plasticity are also discussed as well as the implications that these aspects may have in disease and in the design of novel therapeutics. An extensive revision of the actions of fibroblasts on different conditions uncovers the existence of numerous diseases in which this cell type plays a pathogenic role, either due to an exacerbation of their 'structural' side, or a dysregulation of their 'immune side'. In both cases, opportunities for the development of innovative therapeutic approaches exist. In this regard, here we revise the existing evidence pointing at the melanocortin pathway as a potential new strategy for the treatment and management of diseases mediated by aberrantly activated fibroblasts, including scleroderma or rheumatoid arthritis. This evidence derives from studies involving models of in vitro primary fibroblasts, in vivo models of disease as well as ongoing human clinical trials. Melanocortin drugs, which are pro-resolving mediators, have shown ability to reduce collagen deposition, activation of myofibroblasts, reduction of pro-inflammatory mediators and reduced scar formation. Here we also discuss existing challenges, both in approaching fibroblasts as therapeutic targets, and in the development of novel melanocortin drug candidates, that may help advance the field and deliver new medicines for the management of diseases with high medical needs.

Prospective study of efficacy and safety of non-ablative 1927 nm fractional thulium fiber laser in Asian skin photoaging

Background and Objective

Photoaging manifests as deeper wrinkles and larger pores. It has been tried to rejuvenate photoaging skin using a variety of lasers, including fractionated lasers, which are a popular photorejuvenation treatment. A new breakthrough for skin rejuvenation is the 1927 nm fractional thulium fiber laser (FTL), a laser and light-based treatment option. Clinical data regarding the FTL for treating photoaging are limited despite its effectiveness and safety. This study is aim to evaluate FTL' clinical effectiveness and safety.

Methods

Fitzpatrick skin types II-IV subjects with mild to moderate photoaging signs were enrolled in this prospective study. At intervals of one month, patients received three full face treatments. Wrinkles, spots, texture, pores, melanin index, erythema index (MI and EI), skin elasticity and hydration were measured with non-invasive tool. The epidermal thickness and dermal density on ultrasonography were compared between baseline and one month after all treatment sessions. The Global Score for Photoaging scale (GSP) was rated by two independent evaluators at the baseline and final follow-up visit. Secondary outcomes included patient-rated pain on a 10-point visual analog scale (VAS), as well as overall satisfaction. Following each treatment, adverse events were noted.

Results

Totally 27 subjects (24 females and 3 males) with Fitzpatrick skin types II to IV and a mean age of 44.41 (range33-64) were enrolled. Results suggests that the epidermal thickness has significantly improved after treatment. Statistically significant improvements in melanin index, skin elasticity and wrinkles were noted. An analysis of 12 subjects' reports (44%) suggested their skin felt brighter. No post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation changes or adverse events were observed. 70% patients reporting "satisfied" or "extremely satisfied".

Conclusions

In this study, FTL was found to be a safe and effective treatment option for treating photoaging.

A Review on Electrochemical Microsensors for Ascorbic Acid Detection: Clinical, Pharmaceutical, and Food Safety Applications

Nowadays, micro-sized sensors have become a hot topic in electroanalysis. Because of their excellent analytical features, microelectrodes are well-accepted tools for clinical, pharmaceutical, food safety, and environmental applications. In this brief review, we highlight the state-of-art electrochemical non-enzymatic microsensors for quantitative detection of ascorbic acid (also known as vitamin C). Ascorbic acid is a naturally occurring water-soluble organic compound with antioxidant properties and its quantitative determination in biological fluids, foods, cosmetics, etc., using electrochemical microsensors is of wide interest. Various electrochemical techniques have been applied to detect ascorbic acid with extremely high sensitivity, selectivity, reproducibility, and reliability, and apply to in vivo measurements. This review paper aims to give readers a clear view of advances in areas of electrode modification, successful strategies for signal amplification, and miniaturization techniques used in the electroanalytical devices for ascorbic acid. In conclusion, current challenges related to the microelectrodes design, and future perspectives are outlined.