Antioxidants in Sunscreens: Which and What For?

Photoprotective efficacy of Sunset Yellow via inhibition of type-I and type-II pathway under exposure of sunlight

Exposure to phototoxicants and photosensitizers can result in the generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS), leading to oxidative stress, DNA damage, and various skin-related issues such as aging, allergies, and cancer. While several photo-protectants offer defense against ultraviolet radiation (UV-R), their effectiveness is often limited by photo-instability. Sunset Yellow (SY), an FDA-approved food dye, possesses significant UV-R and visible light absorption properties. However, its photoprotective potential has remained unexplored. Our investigation reveals that SY exhibits remarkable photostability for up to 8 h under both UV-R and sunlight. Notably, SY demonstrates the ability to quench ROS, including singlet oxygen (1O2), superoxide radicals (O 2 · - $$ {\mathrm{O}}_2^{\cdotp -} $$ ), and hydroxyl radicals (·OH) induced by rose bengal, riboflavin and levofloxacin, respectively. Moreover, SY proves effective in protecting against the apoptotic and necrotic cell death induced by the phototoxicant chlorpromazine (CPZ) in HaCaT cells. Further, it was observed that SY imparts photoprotection by inhibiting intracellular ROS generation and calcium release. Genotoxicity evaluation provides additional evidence supporting SY's photoprotective effects against CPZ-induced DNA damage. In conclusion, these findings underscore the potential of SY as a promising photoprotective agent against the toxic hazards induced by phototoxicants, suggesting its prospective application in the formulation of broad-spectrum sunscreens.

Next generation sequencing-aided screening, isolation, molecular identification, and antimicrobial potential for bacterial endophytes from the medicinal plant, Elephantorrhiza elephantina

Elephantorrhiza elephantina, a wild plant in southern Africa, is utilized in traditional medicine for various ailments, leading to its endangerment and listing on the Red List of South African Plants. To date, there have been no reports on bacterial endophytes from this plant, their classes of secondary metabolites, and potential medicinal properties. This study presents (i) taxonomic characterization of bacterial endophytes in leaf and root tissues using 16S rRNA, (ii) bacterial isolation, morphological, and phylogenetic characterization, (iii) bacterial growth, metabolite extraction, and LC-MS-based metabolite fingerprinting, and (iv) antimicrobial testing of bacterial crude extracts. Next-generation sequencing yielded 693 and 2,459 DNA read counts for the rhizomes and leaves, respectively, detecting phyla including Proteobacteria, Bacteroidota, Gemmatimonadota, Actinobacteriota, Verrucomicrobiota, Dependentiae, Firmicutes, and Armatimonodata. At the genus level, Novosphingobium, Mesorhizobium, Methylobacterium, and Ralstonia were the most dominant in both leaves and rhizomes. From root tissues, four bacterial isolates were selected, and 16S rRNA-based phylogenetic characterization identified two closely related Pseudomonas sp. (strain BNWU4 and 5), Microbacterium oxydans BNWU2, and Stenotrophomonas maltophilia BNWU1. The ethyl acetate:chloroform (1:1 v/v) organic extract from each isolate exhibited antimicrobial activity against all selected bacterial pathogens. Strain BNWU5 displayed the highest activity, with minimum inhibitory concentrations ranging from 62.5 μg/mL to 250 μg/mL against diarrhoeagenic Escherichia coli, Escherichia coli O157:H7, Salmonella enterica, antibiotic-resistant Vibrio cholerae, Staphylococcus aureus, Bacillus cereus, and Enterococcus durans. LC-MS analysis of the crude extract revealed common antimicrobial metabolites produced by all isolates, including Phenoxomethylpenicilloyl (penicilloyl V), cis-11-Eicosenamide, 3-Hydroxy-3-phenacyloxindole, and 9-Octadecenamide.

Overview of popular cosmeceuticals in dermatology

The eternal pursuit to prevent ageing and maintain a youthful appearance has resulted in a rapidly expanding cosmeceutical industry. Cosmeceutical products, particularly of natural origin, are in high demand due to claims of efficacy for signs of ageing and other skin conditions. Consumers often include cosmeceutical products in their skin care regime as they are readily available, and a more affordable option compared to prescription products. However, many cosmeceutical ingredients lack clinical evidence regarding their efficacy and safety as these products are not regulated by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration. This review provides a brief overview of several popular cosmeceutical ingredients with regards to their potential indications, targets and mechanisms of action.

Marine Bioactive Peptides: Anti-Photoaging Mechanisms and Potential Skin Protective Effects

Skin photoaging, resulting from prolonged exposure to ultraviolet radiation, is a form of exogenous aging that not only impacts the aesthetic aspect of the skin but also exhibits a strong correlation with the onset of skin cancer. Nonetheless, the safety profile of non-natural anti-photoaging medications and the underlying physiological alterations during the process of photoaging remain inadequately elucidated. Consequently, there exists a pressing necessity to devise more secure interventions involving anti-photoaging drugs. Multiple studies have demonstrated the noteworthy significance of marine biomolecules in addressing safety concerns related to anti-photoaging and safeguarding the skin. Notably, bioactive peptides have gained considerable attention in anti-photoaging research due to their capacity to mitigate the physiological alterations associated with photoaging, including oxidative stress; inflammatory response; the abnormal expression of matrix metalloproteinase, hyaluronidase, and elastase; and excessive melanin synthesis. This review provides a systematic description of the research progress on the anti-photoaging and skin protection mechanism of marine bioactive peptides. The focus is on the utilization of marine bioactive peptides as anti-photoaging agents, aiming to offer theoretical references for the development of novel anti-photoaging drugs and methodologies. Additionally, the future prospects of anti-aging drugs are discussed, providing an initial reference for further research in this field.

Role of the Solvent and Intramolecular Hydrogen Bonds in the Antioxidative Mechanism of Prenylisoflavone from Leaves of Vatairea guianensis

This work discusses the electron structure, antioxidative properties, and solvent contribution of two new antioxidant molecules discovered, named S10 and S11, extracted from a medicinal plant called Vatairea guianensis, found in the Amazon rain-forest. To gain a better understanding, a study using density functional theory coupled with the polarizable-continuum model and the standard 6-311++G(d,p) basis set was conducted. The results indicate that S10 has a higher antioxidant potential than S11, confirming the experimental expectations. In the gas phase, the hydrogen atom transfer route dominates the hydrogen scavenging procedure. However, in the water solvents, the antioxidant mechanism prefers the sequential proton loss electron transfer mechanism. Furthermore, the solvent plays a fundamental role in the antioxidant mechanism. The formation of an intramolecular OH···OCH3 hydrogen bond is crucial for accurately describing the hydrogen scavenging phenomenon, better aligning with the experimental data. The results suggest that the two isoflavones investigated are promising for the pharmacologic and food industries.

How to Promote Skin Repair? In-Depth Look at Pharmaceutical and Cosmetic Strategies

Skin repair encompasses epidermal barrier repair and wound healing which involves multiple cellular and molecular stages. Therefore, many skin repair strategies have been proposed. In order to characterize the usage frequency of skin repair ingredients in cosmetics, medicines, and medical devices, commercialized in Portuguese pharmacies and parapharmacies, a comprehensive analysis of the products' composition was performed. A total of 120 cosmetic products, collected from national pharmacies online platforms, 21 topical medicines, and 46 medical devices, collected from INFARMED database, were included in the study, revealing the top 10 most used skin repair ingredients in these categories. A critical review regarding the effectiveness of the top ingredients was performed and an in-depth analysis focused on the top three skin repair ingredients pursued. Results demonstrated that top three most used cosmetic ingredients were metal salts and oxides (78.3%), vitamin E and its derivatives (54.2%), and Centella asiatica (L.) Urb. extract and actives (35.8%). Regarding medicines, metal salts and oxides were also the most used (47.4%) followed by vitamin B5 and derivatives (23.8%), and vitamin A and derivatives (26.3%). Silicones and derivatives were the most common skin repair ingredients in medical devices (33%), followed by petrolatum and derivatives (22%) and alginate (15%). This work provides an overview of the most used skin repair ingredients, highlighting their different mechanisms of action, aiming to provide an up-to-date tool to support health professionals' decisions.

Cosmeceutical formulations of pro-vitamin E phosphate: In-vitro release testing and dermal penetration into excised human skin

Long-term exposure to solar radiation can lead to skin damage such as photoageing, and photocarcinogenesis. This can be prevented by topically applying α-tocopherol phosphate (α-TP). The major challenge is that a significant amount of α-TP needs to reach viable skin layers for effective photoprotection. This study aims to develop candidate formulations of α-TP (gel-like, solution, lotion, and gel), and investigate formulation characteristics' effect on membrane diffusion and human skin permeation. All the formulations developed in the study had an appealing appearance and no signs of separation. All formulations had low viscosity and high spreadability except the gel. The flux of α-TP through the polyethersulfone membrane was the highest for lotion (6.63 ± 0.86 mg/cm²/h), followed by control gel-like (6.14 ± 1.76 mg/cm²/h), solution (4.65 ± 0.86 mg/cm²/h), and gel (1.02 ± 0.22 mg/cm²/h). The flux of α-TP through the human skin membrane was numerically higher for lotion compared to the gel-like (328.6 vs.175.2 µg/cm²/h). The lotion delivered 3-fold and 5-fold higher α-TP in viable skin layers at 3 h and 24 h, respectively, compared to that of the gel-like. The low skin membrane penetration rate and deposition of α-TP in viable skin layers were observed for the solution and gel. Our study demonstrated that dermal penetration of α-TP was influenced by characteristics of formulation such as formulation type, pH, and viscosity. The α-TP in the lotion scavenged higher DPPH free radicals compared to that of gel-like (almost 73% vs. 46%). The IC₅₀ of α-TP in lotion was significantly lower than that of gel-like (397.2 vs. 626.0 µg/mL). The preservative challenge test specifications were fulfilled by Geogard 221 and suggested that the combination of benzyl alcohol and Dehydroacetic Acid effectively preserved 2% α-TP lotion. This result confirms the suitability of the α-TP cosmeceutical lotion formulation employed in the present work for effective photoprotection.