Non-Invasive Assessment of Skin Barrier Properties: Investigating Emerging Tools for In Vitro and In Vivo Applications

Skin emitted volatiles analysis for noninvasive diagnosis: the current advances in sample preparation techniques for biomedical application

Human skin emits a series of volatile compounds from the skin due to various metabolic processes, microbial activity, and several external factors. Changes in the concentration of skin volatile metabolites indicate many diseases, including diabetes, cancer, and infectious diseases. Researchers focused on skin-emitted compounds to gain insight into the pathophysiology of various diseases. In the case of skin volatolomics research, it is noteworthy that sample preparation, sampling protocol, analytical techniques, and comprehensive validation are important for the successful integration of skin metabolic profiles into regular clinical settings. Solid-phase microextraction techniques and polymer-based active sorbent traps were developed to capture the skin-emitted volatile compounds. The primary advantage of these sample preparation techniques is the ability to efficiently and targetedly capture skin metabolites, thus improving the detection of the biomarkers associated with various diseases. In further research, polydimethyl-based patches were utilized for skin research due to their biocompatibility and thermal stability properties. The microextraction sampling tools coupled with high sensitive Gas Chromatography-Mass Spectrometer provided a potential platform for skin volatolomes, thus emerging as a state-of-the-art analytical technique. Later, technological advancements, including the design of wearable sensors, have enriched skin-based research as it can integrate the information from skin-emitted volatile profiles into a portable platform. However, individual-specific hydration, temperature, and skin conditions can influence variations in skin volatile concentration. Considering the subject-specific skin depth, sampling time standardization, and suitable techniques may improve the skin sampling techniques for the potential discovery of various skin-based marker compounds associated with diseases. Here, we have summarised the current research progress, limitations, and technological advances in skin-based sample preparation techniques for disease diagnosis, monitoring, and personalized healthcare applications.

Predicting Chronological Age via the Skin Volatile Profile

Skin volatile emissions offer a noninvasive insight into metabolic activity within the body as well as the skin microbiome and specific volatile compounds have been shown to correlate with age, albeit only in a few small studies. Building on this, here skin volatiles were collected and analyzed in a healthy participant study (n = 60) using a robust headspace-solid phase microextraction (HS-SPME) gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS) workflow. Following processing, 18 identified compounds were deemed suitable for this study. These were classified according to gender influences and their correlations with age were investigated. Finally, 6 volatiles (of both endogenous and exogenous origin) were identified as significantly changing in abundance with participant age (p < 0.1). The potential origins of these dysregulations are discussed. Multiple linear regression (MLR) analysis was employed to model age based on these significant volatiles as independent variables, along with gender. Our analysis shows that skin volatiles show a strong predictive ability for age (explained variance of 68%), stronger than other biochemical measures collected in this study (skin surface pH, water content) which are understood to vary with chronological age. Overall, this work provides new insights into the impact of aging on the skin volatile profiles which comprises both endogenously and exogenously derived volatile compounds. It goes toward demonstrating the biological significance of skin volatiles and will help pave the way for more rigorous consideration of the healthy "baseline" skin volatile profile in volatilomics-based health diagnostics development going forward.

Glycolipid Biosurfactants in Skincare Applications: Challenges and Recommendations for Future Exploitation

The 21st century has seen a substantial increase in the industrial applications of glycolipid biosurfactant technology. The market value of the glycolipid class of molecules, sophorolipids, was estimated to be USD 409.84 million in 2021, with that of rhamnolipid molecules projected to reach USD 2.7 billion by 2026. In the skincare industry, sophorolipid and rhamnolipid biosurfactants have demonstrated the potential to offer a natural, sustainable, and skin-compatible alternative to synthetically derived surfactant compounds. However, there are still many barriers to the wide-scale market adoption of glycolipid technology. These barriers include low product yield (particularly for rhamnolipids) and potential pathogenicity of some native glycolipid-producing microorganisms. Additionally, the use of impure preparations and/or poorly characterised congeners as well as low-throughput methodologies in the safety and bioactivity assessment of sophorolipids and rhamnolipids challenges their increased utilisation in both academic research and skincare applications. This review considers the current trend towards the utilisation of sophorolipid and rhamnolipid biosurfactants as substitutes to synthetically derived surfactant molecules in skincare applications, the challenges associated with their application, and relevant solutions proposed by the biotechnology industry. In addition, we recommend experimental techniques/methodologies, which, if employed, could contribute significantly to increasing the acceptance of glycolipid biosurfactants for use in skincare applications while maintaining consistency in biosurfactant research outputs.

How to Promote Skin Repair? In-Depth Look at Pharmaceutical and Cosmetic Strategies

Skin repair encompasses epidermal barrier repair and wound healing which involves multiple cellular and molecular stages. Therefore, many skin repair strategies have been proposed. In order to characterize the usage frequency of skin repair ingredients in cosmetics, medicines, and medical devices, commercialized in Portuguese pharmacies and parapharmacies, a comprehensive analysis of the products' composition was performed. A total of 120 cosmetic products, collected from national pharmacies online platforms, 21 topical medicines, and 46 medical devices, collected from INFARMED database, were included in the study, revealing the top 10 most used skin repair ingredients in these categories. A critical review regarding the effectiveness of the top ingredients was performed and an in-depth analysis focused on the top three skin repair ingredients pursued. Results demonstrated that top three most used cosmetic ingredients were metal salts and oxides (78.3%), vitamin E and its derivatives (54.2%), and Centella asiatica (L.) Urb. extract and actives (35.8%). Regarding medicines, metal salts and oxides were also the most used (47.4%) followed by vitamin B5 and derivatives (23.8%), and vitamin A and derivatives (26.3%). Silicones and derivatives were the most common skin repair ingredients in medical devices (33%), followed by petrolatum and derivatives (22%) and alginate (15%). This work provides an overview of the most used skin repair ingredients, highlighting their different mechanisms of action, aiming to provide an up-to-date tool to support health professionals' decisions.

Non-invasive Sampling of Human Body Fluids Using In Vivo SPME

Noninvasive body fluids offer attractive sources to gain insights into human health. The in vivo solid-phase microextraction (SPME) technique is a fast and versatile sample preparation technique for the noninvasive sampling of human body fluids in various fields. This chapter summarizes the applications of SPME coupled with mass spectrometry (MS)-based approaches for noninvasive investigations of human body fluids, including urine, sweat, and saliva. New features of noninvasive SPME sampling and MS-based analysis are highlighted, and the prospects on their further development are also discussed.

Assessment of Brassica oleraceae L. (Brassicaceae) extract loaded ethosomal gel as a versatile vesicular carrier system for dermocosmetic application: A noninvasive split-faced study

BACKGROUND

Plant extracts with rich ascorbic acid contents have greater antioxidant capability; extensively employed in skin beautifying products and protect skin from detrimental photodamaging environmental effects. Brassica oleraceae is having a substantial prospective toward cosmeceuticals owed by its profound activity against oxidation.

AIM

To develop an effective topical ethosomal gel loaded with Brassica oleraceae leaves extract with significant antioxidant activity.

METHODOLOGY

Valuation of antioxidant capability of plant leaves extract by 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH), and quantification of ascorbic acid was done through high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). Ethosomes were prepared by cold method. Optimized suspension containing extract was incorporated in 2% Carbopol gel (test) along with extract solution (control). Noninvasive in vivo studies were performed for final product to assess its effects on skin by measuring melanin and erythema, sebum level, elasticity, moistness level, facial pores count and their area, skin wrinkling, and smoothness.

RESULTS

Brassica oleraceae (red cabbage) leaves extract exhibited significant antioxidant potential (85.64 ± 1.28%) with 14.22 μg/g of ascorbic acid; expressed prominent cosmetic effects in terms of skin melanin, erythema, sebum, elasticity, hydration, facial pores, wrinkles, and smoothness when incorporated in ethosomes. ANOVA test also exhibited positive significant (p ≤ 0.05) effects on skin.

CONCLUSION

Brassica oleraceae extract is a strong antioxidant with remarkable dermocosmetic benefits for skin.

Microbial Biosurfactants in Cosmetic and Personal Skincare Pharmaceutical Formulations

Cosmetic and personal care products are globally used and often applied directly on the human skin. According to a recent survey in Europe, the market value of cosmetic and personal care products in Western Europe reached about 84 billion euros in 2018 and are predicted to increase by approximately 6% by the end of 2020. With these significant sums of money spent annually on cosmetic and personal care products, along with chemical surfactants being the main ingredient in a number of their formulations, of which many have been reported to have the potential to cause detrimental effects such as allergic reactions and skin irritations to the human skin; hence, the need for the replacement of chemical surfactants with other compounds that would have less or no negative effects on skin health. Biosurfactants (surfactants of biological origin) have exhibited great potential such as lower toxicity, skin compatibility, protection and surface moisturizing effects which are key components for an effective skincare routine. This review discusses the antimicrobial, skin surface moisturizing and low toxicity properties of glycolipid and lipopeptide biosurfactants which could make them suitable substitutes for chemical surfactants in current cosmetic and personal skincare pharmaceutical formulations. Finally, we discuss some challenges and possible solutions for biosurfactant applications.

Development of dynamic cell and organotypic skin models, for the investigation of a novel visco-elastic burns treatment using molecular and cellular approaches

BACKGROUND

Burn injuries are a major cause of morbidity and mortality worldwide. Despite advances in therapeutic strategies for the management of patients with severe burns, the sequelae are pathophysiologically profound, up to the systemic and metabolic levels. Management of patients with a severe burn injury is a long-term, complex process, with treatment dependent on the degree and location of the burn and total body surface area (TBSA) affected. In adverse conditions with limited resources, efficient triage, stabilisation, and rapid transfer to a specialised intensive care burn centre is necessary to provide optimal outcomes. This initial lag time and the form of primary treatment initiated, from injury to specialist care, is crucial for the burn patient. This study aims to investigate the efficacy of a novel visco-elastic burn dressing with a proprietary bio-stimulatory marine mineral complex (MXC) as a primary care treatment to initiate a healthy healing process prior to specialist care.

METHODS

A new versatile emergency burn dressing saturated in a >90% translucent water-based, sterile, oil-free gel and carrying a unique bio-stimulatory marine mineral complex (MXC) was developed. This dressing was tested using LabSkin as a burn model platform. LabSkin a novel cellular 3D-dermal organotypic full thickness human skin equivalent, incorporating fully-differentiated dermal and epidermal components that functionally models skin. Cell and molecular analysis was carried out by in vitro Real-Time Cellular Analysis (RTCA), thermal analysis, and focused transcriptomic array profiling for quantitative gene expression analysis, interrogating both wound healing and fibrosis/scarring molecular pathways. In vivo analysis was also performed to assess the bio-mechanical and physiological effects of this novel dressing on human skin.

RESULTS

This hybrid emergency burn dressing (EBD) with MXC was hypoallergenic, and improved the barrier function of skin resulting in increased hydration up to 24 h. It was demonstrated to effectively initiate cooling upon application, limiting the continuous burn effect and preventing local tissue from damage and necrosis. xCELLigence RTCA® on primary human dermal cells (keratinocyte, fibroblast and micro-vascular endothelial) demonstrated improved cellular function with respect to tensegrity, migration, proliferation and cell-cell contact (barrier formation) [1]. Quantitative gene profiling supported the physiological and cellular function finding. A beneficial quid pro quo regulation of genes involved in wound healing and fibrosis formation was observed at 24 and 48 h time points.

CONCLUSION

Utilisation of this EBD + MXC as a primary treatment is an effective and easily applicable treatment in cases of burn injury, proving both a cooling and hydrating environment for the wound. It regulates inflammation and promotes healing in preparation for specialised secondary burn wound management. Moreover, it promotes a healthy remodelling phenotype that may potentially mitigate scarring. Based on our findings, this EBD + MXC is ideal for use in all pre-hospital, pre-surgical and resource limited settings.

Headspace Solid-Phase Microextraction Gas Chromatography-Mass Spectrometry Analysis of Scent Profiles from Human Skin

Volatile organic compounds (VOCs) emanating from human skin contribute to an individual’s body odour. Understanding the modulation of human odour by a fragrance is of significant importance to the cosmetic sector in the design, development and evaluation of new products. The present research describes an in vivo approach for passive headspace sampling of skin volatile emissions in human participants. A wearable headspace solid-phase microextraction (HS-SPME) method has been employed to investigate baseline endogenous skin volatiles and the subsequent modulation of skin volatile profiles after application of a fragrance to skin. Coupled with gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS) this method enables characterisation of scent profiles and fragrance longevity in vivo. A total of 51 compounds were identified in participants’ skin, including 19 endogenous and 32 fragrance-derived compounds. The temporal variation in volatile profiles at different times after fragrance application was investigated. Fragrance diffusion from skin varied between participants resulting in diversified scent profiles over time. This non-invasive approach could be employed during cosmetic product development for in vivo evaluation of fragrance profiles and for assessment of the retention of fragrance components in skin to reduce reliance on expert panels during product development.