Cytoprotection of Antioxidant Biocompounds from Grape Pomace: Further Exfoliant Phytoactive Ingredients for Cosmetic Products

Exploring Phenolic Compounds in Crop By-Products for Cosmetic Efficacy

Phenolic compounds represent a group of secondary metabolites that serve essential functions in plants. Beyond their positive impact on plants, these phenolic metabolites, often referred to as polyphenols, possess a range of biological properties that can promote skin health. Scientific research indicates that topically using phenolics derived from plants can be advantageous, but their activity and stability highly depend on storage of the source material and the extraction method. These compounds have the ability to relieve symptoms and hinder the progression of different skin diseases. Because they come from natural sources and have minimal toxicity, phenolic compounds show potential in addressing the causes and effects of skin aging, skin diseases, and various types of skin damage, such as wounds and burns. Hence, this review provides extensive information on the particular crops from which by-product phenolic compounds can be sourced, also emphasizing the need to conduct research according to proper plant material storage practices and the choice of the best extracting method, along with an examination of their specific functions and the mechanisms by which they act to protect skin.

Revealing the Beauty Potential of Grape Stems: Harnessing Phenolic Compounds for Cosmetics

Grape stems have emerged as a promising natural ingredient in the cosmetics industry due to their abundance of phenolic compounds, known for their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. These compounds have shown great potential in promoting skin health, fighting signs of aging, and shielding against environmental stressors. With high concentrations of resveratrol, flavonoids, and tannins, grape stems have garnered attention from cosmetic scientists. Research has indicated that phenolic compounds extracted from grape stems possess potent antioxidant abilities, effectively combating free radicals that accelerate aging. Moreover, these compounds have demonstrated the capacity to shield the skin from UV damage, boost collagen production, and enhance skin elasticity. Cosmetic formulations incorporating grape stem extracts have displayed promising results in addressing various skin concerns, including reducing wrinkles, fine lines, and age spots, leading to a more youthful appearance. Additionally, grape stem extracts have exhibited anti-inflammatory properties, soothing irritated skin and diminishing redness. Exploring the potential of grape stem phenolic compounds for cosmetics paves the way for sustainable and natural beauty products. By harnessing the beauty benefits of grape stems, the cosmetics industry can provide effective and eco-friendly solutions for consumers seeking natural alternatives. Ongoing research holds the promise of innovative grape stem-based formulations that could revolutionize the cosmetics market, fully unlocking the potential of these extraordinary botanical treasures.

Exhausted Grape Seed Residues as a Valuable Source of Antioxidant Molecules for the Formulation of Biocompatible Cosmetic Scrubs

Grape seed of Obeidi, a white Lebanese autochthonous variety, was previously tested in different studies as a valuable source of bioactive molecules such as polyphenols, oils, and proteins by means of extraction procedures for the development of cosmetic and therapeutic products. However, an un-valorized, exhausted grape seed residue remains as "secondary waste" after the extraction processes. In this study, the exhausted seeds have been further exploited to produce cosmetic scrubs capable of releasing antioxidant molecules during the exfoliation process, in accordance with the principles of the circular economy and going toward a zero-waste process. The deep characterization of the exhausted seeds confirmed the presence of antioxidant phenolic molecules including gallic acid, catechins and protocatechuic acid (0.13, 0.126, and 0.089 mg/g of dry matter DM), and a high phenolic content (11.85 mg gallic acid equivalents (GAE)/g of dry matter (DM)). Moreover, these residues were shown to possess a sandy texture (Hausner ratio (HR): 1.154, Carr index (CI): 0.133, and angle of repose: 31.62 (°) degrees), similar to commercial natural exfoliants. In this respect, exhausted Obeidi grape seed residues were incorporated at increasing concentrations (0.5, 1, 1.5, and 2% w/w) in a cosmetic scrub, and stored for 5 weeks at 4, 25, and 50 °C for stability testing. All tested scrub formulations exhibited good spreadability with a spread diameter of 3.6-4.7 cm and excellent physical stability, as no phase separation or color change were observed after four cycles of heat shock at 4 and 50 °C. Finally, an in vivo skin irritation test showed that the scrub enriched with 1.5% of exhausted Obeidi grape seed residues was the most promising formulation, as it possessed a high amount of phenolic molecules (0.042 ± 0.001 mg GAE/mL of scrub) and good stability and could be safely applied to the skin with no irritation phenomena. Overall results underlined that exhausted grape seed residues can be transformed into promising systems for both physical and chemical exfoliation, thus confirming the importance of the effective exploitation of agro-industrial by-products for the development of high value cosmeceutics towards a more sustainable and zero-waste approach.

Chemical Characterization and Bioactive Properties of Wine Lees and Diatomaceous Earth towards the Valorization of Underexploited Residues as Potential Cosmeceuticals

Annually, wine production is responsible for generating large quantities of residues, which are frequently disposed of and not valorized. So far, different studies have been conducted on grape pomace, yet less attention has been paid to other residues, such as wine lees and diatomaceous earth used in wine filtration. In this context, this study aimed to evaluate and compare the phenolic profile of these underexploited winemaking residues and assess their biological potential based on their antioxidant, antimicrobial, cytotoxic, and anti-aging activities (inhibition of tyrosinase and collagenase). Twenty-nine phenolic compounds, including twelve anthocyanins, were tentatively identified in the residues, with red grape pomace showing the highest diversity of compounds. The diatomaceous earth presented the highest content of non-anthocyanin phenolic compounds, being particularly rich in flavan-3-ols and myricetin-O-hexoside, and also presenting two anthocyanins. This sample also showed a high antioxidant activity, evidencing the best result in the reducing power assay. The red wine lees extract, despite showing a low content of phenolic compounds and less antioxidant activity, presented the highest inhibition capacity of bacteria growth. The extracts did not exhibit cytotoxicity against keratinocyte (up to 400 μg/mL) and fibroblast (up to 100 μg/mL) skin cell lines. However, the capacity of inhibiting tyrosinase and collagenase was low for the lees and diatomaceous earth, contrary to the grape pomace, seeds, and skins extracts that showed promising results, evidencing its potential as a cosmeceutical. Overall, this study highlights for the first time the potential of diatomaceous earth, an underexploited winemaking waste, in the obtention of added-value extracts and/or ingredients for cosmetic industry.

Evaluation of Physicochemical and Microbial Properties of Extracts from Wine Lees Waste of Matelica’s Verdicchio and Their Applications in Novel Cosmetic Products

Wine lees are sediments deposited on the walls and bottom of barrels resulting from wine fermentation and mainly consist of yeasts. Saccharomyces cerevisiae extracts, rich in beneficial components for the skin, have already been used in cosmesis, while wine lees have not been well exploited by the cosmetics industry yet. The aim of this work was the full characterization of the wine lees from Verdicchio’s wine, with the aim to exploit it as a beneficial ingredient in new cosmetic products. After mapping the microbial composition of the sample waste, the parameters for the sonication extraction process were optimized and the physicochemical properties of the extract were analyzed. The efficiency of the aqueous extraction—and in particular the yeast cell lysis necessary for the release of proteins from the cell—was assessed by evaluating cell shape and size, and protein release, under scanning electron microscopy (SEM), dynamic light scattering (DLS) and Bradford’s protein assays. Thus, the total phenol content and antioxidant capacity of the supernatant recovered from native and sonicated lees were determined by Folin–Ciocalteu’s and spectrophotometric assays, respectively. To quantify the heavy metals and highlight the presence of microelements beneficial for the skin, inductively coupled plasma-mass spectrometry (ICP-MS) was applied. In vitro metabolic activity and cytotoxicity were tested on both HaCat keratinocytes and human gingival fibroblasts, showing that wine lees are safe for skin’s cells. The results show that sonicated lees appear to be more interesting than native ones as a consequence of the release of the active ingredients from the cells. Due to the high antioxidant capacity, content of beneficial elements for skin and an appropriate microbiologic profile, wine lees were included in five new solid cosmetic products and tested for challenge test, compatibility with human skin, sensory analysis, trans epidermal water loss (TEWL) and sebometry.

Antioxidant and antiproliferative potentials of phenolic-rich extracts from biotransformed grape pomace in colorectal Cancer

BACKGROUND

Colorectal carcinoma is one of the most commonly diagnosed malignancies worldwide. Consumption of dietary supplements and nutraceuticals such as phenolic compounds may help combat colorectal carcinoma. The effect of two phenolic-rich extracts prepared from biotransformed grape pomace on the antioxidant properties and antiproliferative activity against two colorectal cancer cell lines (Caco-2 and SW620) were investigated.

METHODS

A 15-day solid-state fermentation with the white-rot fungi Phanerochaete chrysosporium and Trametes gibbosa was used to biotransform grape pomace. Solid-liquid extraction was then performed to extract bioactive compounds. The extract was analyzed for the determination of phenolic compounds by ultra-high performance liquid chromatography and in vitro assays of biological activities (antioxidant activity, antiproliferative activity, cell cycle analysis).

RESULTS

The 4 days of solid-state fermentation proved to be the optimal period to obtain the maximum yield of phenolic compounds. The tested extracts showed significant antioxidant and antiproliferative activities. Grape pomace treated with P. chrysosporium and T. gibbosa reduced cancer cell growth by more than 60% at concentrations (solid/liquid ratio) of 1.75 mg/mL and of 2.5 mg/mL, respectively. The cell cycle perturbations induced by the grape pomace extracts resulted in a significant increase in the number of cells in the S (9.8%) and G2/M (6.8%) phases of SW620 exposed to T. gibbosa after 48 hours, while P. chrysosporium increased the percentage of cells in the G1 phase by 7.7%. The effect of grape pomace extracts on Caco-2 was less pronounced.

CONCLUSIONS

The obtained results suggest the presence of bioactive compounds in biotransformed grape pomace as a residue from winemaking, which could be used to prevent colon cancer.

Grape skin flour obtained from wine processing as an antioxidant in beef burgers

The objective of this study was to determine the best level of wine making by-product meal (WBM) as a natural antioxidant to replace butylhydroxytoluene (BHT) in beef burger stored at -20 °C for up to 120 days. The treatments consisted of control (basic formulation - BF, without antioxidant); BF with BHT; and BF with WBM0.5, WBM1.0, WBM1.5, and WBM2.0, with 0.5, 1.0, 1.5 and 2.0 g WBM/100 g BF, respectively. Up to 60 days of storage, the lipid oxidation value between BHT and WBM0.5 treatments did not differ and were lower than the values presented by the other treatments. On day 90 and 120, the lipid oxidation values of treatments BHT, WBM0.5, and WBM1.0 did not differ and were lower than the values presented by WBM1.5 and WBM2.0 treatments. Burgers from all treatments with WBM inclusion had crude fiber values above 3 g/100 g. WBM1.5 and WBM2.0 treatments had the worst scores for appearance, aroma, juiciness and tenderness, in addition to the highest cooking losses. WBM can be used at up to 1 g/100 g to replace BHT in frozen beef burgers. Higher levels of WBM inclusion increased lipid oxidation and negatively affected the sensory quality of burgers.

A Comparative Study of the Influence of Various Fungal-Based Pretreatments of Grape Pomace on Phenolic Compounds Recovery

Wineries produce considerable amounts of grape pomace, which is a readily available natural source of bioactive phenolic compounds. In this study, grape pomace was used as a substrate for the cultivation of eleven filamentous fungi (Trametes versicolor TV6, Trametes versicolor TV8, Trametes versicolor AG613, Trametes gibbosa, Phanerochaete chrysosporium, Ceriporiopsis subvermispora, Pleurotus eryngii, Ganoderma lucidum, Ganoderma resinaceum, Humicola grisea, and Rhizopus oryzae) under solid-state conditions (SSF) for 15 days with the aim of improving the recovery of the individual phenolic compounds. Twenty-one phenolic compounds were quantified and the recovery of seventeen of them (gallic acid, ellagic acid, p-hydroxybenzoic acid, syringic acid, vanillic acid, 3,4-dihydroxybenzoic acid, ferulic acid, o-coumaric acid, p-coumaric acid, epicatechin gallate, galocatechin gallate, quercetin, kaempferol, procyanidin B1, procyanidin B2, resveratrol, and ε-viniferin) were positively affected by SSF. Ellagic acid is the most recovered compound, whose content increased 8.8-fold after 15 days of biological treatment with Ceriporiopsis subvermispora compared to the untreated initial sample. Among the microorganisms tested, the fungi Pleurotus eryngii and Rhizopus oryzae proved to be the most effective in increasing the recovery of most phenolic compounds (1.1–4.5-fold). In addition, the nutrient composition (proteins, ash, fats) of grape pomace was positively affected by the biological treatments.

Sustainable Green Processing of Grape Pomace Using Micellar Extraction for the Production of Value-Added Hygiene Cosmetics

This study sought to evaluate the possibility of using grape pomace, a waste material from wine production, for the preparation of cosmetic components. Following the existing clear research trend related to improving the safety of cleansing cosmetics, an attempt was made to determine the possibility of preparing model shower gels based on grape pomace extract. A new method for producing cosmetic components named loan chemical extraction (LCE) was developed and is described for the first time in this paper. In the LCE method, an extraction medium consisting only of the components from the final product was used. Thus, there were no additional substances in the cosmetics developed, and the formulation was significantly enriched with compounds isolated from grape pomace. Samples of the model shower gels produced were evaluated in terms of their basic parameters related to functionality (e.g., foaming properties, rheological characteristics, color) and their effect on the skin. The results obtained showed that the extracts based on waste grape pomace contained a number of valuable cosmetic compounds (e.g., organic acids, phenolic compounds, amino acids and sugars), and the model products basis on them provided colorful and safe natural cosmetics.

In Vitro Evaluation of Biological Activities of Canes and Pomace Extracts from Several Varieties of Vitis vinifera L. for Inclusion in Freeze-Drying Mouthwashes

In this study, the biological activities of four extracts from Vitis vinifera by-products: two pomace extracts, white (WPE) and red (RPE), a canes extract (CE), and their combination (CoE), were evaluated, to be included in freeze-drying mouthwashes formulations. The cytocompatibility and anticancerous potential of the four extracts were tested on three cancerous cell lines, as well as the cytoprotective activity against nicotine-induced cytotoxicity and the antioxidant potential determined on a human gingival fibroblasts (HGF) cell line. Additionally, the anti-inflammatory activity and the antimicrobial activity against several microorganisms from the oral microbiome were tested. Freeze-dried mouthwashes with CoE were prepared and characterized, both as lyophilizates and after reconstitution. The four tested extracts showed the highest cytotoxicity on MDA-kb2 cell line. The antioxidant potential was demonstrated for WPE, RPE, CE, and CoE, both in non-stimulated and H₂O₂ stimulated conditions. The four extracts reduced the levels of proinflammatory cytokines (IL-6, IL-8, and IL-1β) in a dose-dependent manner, confirming their anti-inflammatory activity. The antimicrobial activity of tested extracts was shown against pathogenic bacteria from the oral microbiome. Mouthwashes of CoE with poloxamer-407, xylitol, and different ratios of mannitol were prepared by freeze-drying leading to porous formulations with interesting mechanical properties and reconstitution times.

Liposomes loaded with polyphenol-rich grape pomace extracts protect from neurodegeneration in a rotenone-based in vitro model of Parkinson's disease

Parkinson's disease (PD) is a progressive neurodegenerative disease with no satisfactory therapy options. Similar to other neurodegenerative conditions, such as Alzheimer's and Huntington's diseases, oxidative stress plays a key factor in the neurodegeneration process. To counteract the uncontrolled increase of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and oxidative stress-dependent cell death, several preclinical and clinical tests exploit natural-derived organic antioxidants, such as polyphenols. Despite some promising results, free antioxidants show scarce brain accumulation and may exhaust their scavenging activity before reaching the brain. In this work, we developed an antioxidant therapeutic nanoplatform consisting of nano-sized functionalized liposomes loaded with selected polyphenol-rich vegetal extracts with high blood-brain barrier crossing capabilities. The antioxidant extracts were obtained from the grape seeds and skins as a byproduct of wine production (i.e., pomace), following a sustainable circular approach with reduced environmental impact. The antioxidant nanoplatform was successfully tested in a relevant in vitro model of PD, where it completely rescued the ROS levels, prevented the aggregation of α-synuclein fibrils, and restored cell viability, paving the way for preclinical translation of the approach.

Valorization of Wine-Making By-Products’ Extracts in Cosmetics

The increased demand for conscious, sustainable and beneficial products by the consumers has pushed researchers from both industries and universities worldwide to search for smart strategies capable of reducing the environmental footprint, especially the ones connected with industrial wastes. Among various by-products, generally considered as waste, those obtained by winemaking industries have attracted the attention of a wide variety of companies, other than the vineries. In particular, grape pomaces are considered of interest due to their high content in bioactive molecules, especially phenolic compounds. The latter can be recovered from grape pomace and used as active ingredients in easily marketable cosmetic products. Indeed, phenolic compounds are well known for their remarkable beneficial properties at the skin level, such as antioxidant, antiaging, anti-hyperpigmentation and photoprotective effects. The exploitation of the bioactives contained in grape pomaces to obtain high value cosmetics may support the growing of innovative start-ups and expand the value chain of grapes. This review aims to describe the strategies for recovery of polyphenols from grape pomace, to highlight the beneficial potential of these extracts, both in vitro and in vivo, and their potential utilization as active ingredients in cosmetic products.

Effect of Nanoconfinement of Polyphenolic Extract from Grape Pomace into Functionalized Mesoporous Silica on Its Biocompatibility and Radical Scavenging Activity

The aim of this paper is to assess the properties of Mamaia (MM) grape pomace polyphenolic extract loaded onto pristine and functionalized MCM-41 mesoporous silica as potential ingredients for nutraceuticals or cosmetics. The chemical profile of hydroalcoholic polyphenolic extracts, prepared either by conventional extraction or microwave-assisted method, was analyzed by reverse-phase high-performance liquid chromatography with photodiode array detector (HPLC-PDA) analysis, while their radical scavenger activity (RSA) was evaluated using DPPH (2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl radical) and ABTS (2,2'-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulphonic acid) assays. The extract-loaded materials were characterized by Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy, N2 adsorption-desorption isotherms, thermogravimetric analysis, as well as RSA (DPPH and ABTS assays). The polyphenols release profiles from pristine and functionalized (with mercaptopropyl, propyl sulfonic acid, cyanoethyl and propionic acid moieties) MCM-41-type supports were determined in phosphate buffer solution (PBS) pH 5.7. For selected materials containing embedded phytochemicals, cellular viability, and oxidative stress level on immortalized mouse embryonic fibroblast cell line (NIH3T3) were evaluated. A more acidic functional groups linked on silica pore walls determined a higher amount of phytochemicals released in PBS. The extract-loaded materials showed a good cytocompatibility on tested concentrations. The embedded extract preserved better the RSA over time than the free extract. The polyphenols-loaded MCM-41-type silica materials, especially MM@MCM-COOH material, demonstrated a good in vitro antioxidant effect on NIH3T3 cells, being potential candidates for nutraceutical or cosmetic formulations.

Research Advances in the Use of Bioactive Compounds from Vitis vinifera By-Products in Oral Care

Oral health is considered an important factor of general health and it contributes to the quality of life. Despite the raising awareness of preventive measures, the prevalence of oral health conditions continues to increase. In this context, a growing interest in investigating natural resources like Vitis vinifera (V. vinifera) phenolic compounds (PhCs) as oral health promoters has emerged. This paper aims to review the evidence about the bioactivities of V. vinifera by-products in oral health. Up to date, a high number of studies have thoroughly reported the antimicrobial and antiplaque activity of V. vinifera extracts against S. mutans or in multi-species biofilms. Moreover, the bioactive compounds from V. vinifera by-products have been shown to modulate the periodontal inflammatory response and the underlying oxidative stress imbalance induced by the pathogenic bacteria. Considering these beneficial effects, the utility of V. vinifera by-products in the maintaining of oral health and the necessary steps towards the development of oral care products were emphasized. In conclusion, the high potential of V. vinifera by-products could be valorized in the development of oral hygiene products with multi-target actions in the prevention and progression of several oral conditions.

Potential health benefits of phenolic compounds in grape processing by-products

Prevention emerges as a powerful approach in minimizing the risk of deleterious lifestyle diseases because therapies do not necessarily guarantee a permanent cure. Accordingly, consumers' growing preference for natural and health-promoting dietary options that are rich in antioxidants has become widespread. Grape (Vitis vinifera) is an antioxidant-rich fruit extensively grown for fresh or processed consumption. The long-term consumption of its polyphenolic antioxidants may promote multiple health benefits. However, grape pomace (GP), consisting of peel, seed, stem, and pulp, is discarded during grape processing, including juice extraction and winemaking, despite its substantial antioxidant content. Polyphenolic extraction techniques have been widely explored to date, but the consolidation of reported physiological impacts of GP-derived polyphenolic constituents is limited. Thus, this review highlights current studies of the potential applications of GP extract in disease prevention and treatment, emphasizing the major influence of polyphenolic compositions and origins of different grape varieties.