Design Methodology for the Development of a New Cosmetic Active Based on Prunus domestica L. Leaves Extract

From by-products to new application opportunities: the enhancement of the leaves deriving from the fruit plants for new potential healthy products

In the last decades, the world population and demand for any kind of product have grown exponentially. The rhythm of production to satisfy the request of the population has become unsustainable and the concept of the linear economy, introduced after the Industrial Revolution, has been replaced by a new economic approach, the circular economy. In this new economic model, the concept of "the end of life" is substituted by the concept of restoration, providing a new life to many industrial wastes. Leaves are a by-product of several agricultural cultivations. In recent years, the scientific interest regarding leaf biochemical composition grew, recording that plant leaves may be considered an alternative source of bioactive substances. Plant leaves' main bioactive compounds are similar to those in fruits, i.e., phenolic acids and esters, flavonols, anthocyanins, and procyanidins. Bioactive compounds can positively influence human health; in fact, it is no coincidence that the leaves were used by our ancestors as a natural remedy for various pathological conditions. Therefore, leaves can be exploited to manufacture many products in food (e.g., being incorporated in food formulations as natural antioxidants, or used to create edible coatings or films for food packaging), cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries (e.g., promising ingredients in anti-aging cosmetics such as oils, serums, dermatological creams, bath gels, and other products). This review focuses on the leaves' main bioactive compounds and their beneficial health effects, indicating their applications until today to enhance them as a harvesting by-product and highlight their possible reuse for new potential healthy products.

Anti-tyrosinase and antimelanogenic effect of cinnamic acid derivatives from Prunus mahaleb L.: Phenolic composition, isolation, identification and inhibitory activity

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE

The traditional use of Prunus species against skin diseases and especially for skin lightning cosmeceutical purposes is widespread in many cultures. Prunus mahaleb L. is a well known food plant and used in the baking industry for flavoring. The fruit kernels (endocarp) are used in India for hyperpigmentation.

AIM OF THE STUDY

To investigate the chemical composition with the antimelanogenesis effect of P. mahaleb seed and kernel extracts and isolated compounds.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Isolation studies performed from the methanol extracts obtained from kernels and structures were determined using NMR and MS analysis. Antimelanogenesis effect was determined by mushroom tyrosinase assay, cellular tyrosinase assay and melanin content assay using B16F10 murine melanoma cells.

RESULTS

Five cinnamic acid derivatives were isolated and their structures (2-O-β-glucopyranosyloxy-4-methoxy-hydrocinnamic acid (1), cis-melilotoside (2), dihydromelilotoside (3), trans-melilotoside (4), 2-O-β-glucosyloxy-4-methoxy trans-cinnamic acid (5)) were elucidated using advanced spectroscopic methods. Mushroom tyrosinase enzyme inhibition of extracts, fractions and pure compounds obtained from P. mahaleb kernels were investigated and structure-activity relationship revealed. According to a detailed, comprehensive and validated LC-MS/MS technique analysis, vanilic acid (41.407 mg/g), protocatechuic acid (8.992 mg/g) and ferulic acid (4.962 mg/g) in the kernel ethylacetate fraction; quinic acid (14.183 mg/g), fumaric acid (8.349 mg/g) and aconitic acid (5.574 mg/g) were found as major phenolic compounds in the water fraction. The correlation of trace element copper content in extracts and fractions with mushroom enzyme activity was determined. By examining the enzyme kinetics of the compounds with effective cinnamic acid derivatives, inhibition types and enzyme binding constants K_i were calculated. Compounds 1,3 and 5 exhibited high noncompetitive tyrosinase inhibitory activity against L-tyrosine substrates, with IC₅₀ values of 0.22, 0.31 and 0.37 mM respectively. In addition compounds 1, 3 and 5 showed dose-dependent inhibitory effects on intracellular tyrosinase and melanin levels in α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-induced B16F10 melanoma cells.

CONCLUSIONS

Potent tyrosinase inhibitory compounds and extracts of P. mahaleb kernels suggest that it could be a new, non-toxic and inexpensive resource for the cosmeceutical industry and in skin diseases associated with hyperpigmentation.

Molecular Characterization of Prunus lusitanica L. Fruit Extracts and Their Health-Promoting Potential in Inflammation, Diabetes, and Neurodegenerative Diseases

Prunus lusitanica L. is a shrub belonging to the genus Prunus L. (Rosaceae family) that produces small fruits with none known application. Thus, the aim of this study was to determine the phenolic profile and some health-promoting activities of hydroethanolic (HE) extracts obtained from P. lusitanica fruits, harvested from three different locations. Qualitative and quantitative analysis of extracts was performed using HPLC/DAD-ESI-MS and antioxidant activity was assessed by in vitro methods. Antiproliferative/cytotoxic activity was determined on Caco-2, HepG2, and RAW 264.7 cells, anti-inflammatory activity was assessed using lipopolysaccharide (LPS)-stimulated RAW 264.7 cells, and the antidiabetic, antiaging, and neurobiological action of extracts was determined in vitro by assessing their inhibitory effect against the activity of α-amylase, α-glucosidase, elastase, tyrosinase, and acetylcholinesterase (AChE). Results showed that P. lusitanica fruit HE extracts from the three different locations showed identical phytochemical profile and bioactivities, although small differences were observed regarding the quantities of some compounds. Extracts of P. lusitanica fruits contain high levels in total phenolic compounds, namely, hydroxycinnamic acids, as well as flavan-3-ols and anthocyanins, primarily cyanidin-3-(6-trans-p-coumaroyl)glucoside. P. lusitanica fruit extracts have a low cytotoxic/antiproliferative effect, with the lowest IC₅₀ value obtained in HepG2 cells (352.6 ± 10.0 μg/mL, at 48 h exposure), but high anti-inflammatory activity (50-60% NO release inhibition, at 100 μg/mL extract) and neuroprotective potential (35-39% AChE inhibition, at 1 mg/mL), and moderate antiaging (9-15% tyrosinase inhibition, at 1 mg/mL) and antidiabetic (9-15% α-glucosidase inhibition, at 1 mg/mL) effects. The bioactive molecules present in the fruits of P. lusitanica deserve to be further explored for the development of new drugs of interest to the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industry.

Commiphora wildii Merxm. Essential Oil: Natural Heptane Source and Co-Product Valorization

As an alternative to fossil volatile hydrocarbon solvents used nowadays in perfumery, investigation on essential oil of Commiphora wildii Merxm. oleo gum resin as a source of heptane is reported here. Heptane, representing up to 30 wt-% of this oleo gum resin, was successfully isolated from the C. wildii essential oil, using an innovative double distillation process. Isolated heptane was then used as a solvent in order to extract some noble plants of perfumery. It was found that extracts obtained with this solvent were more promising in terms of sensory analysis than those obtained from fossil-based heptane. In addition, in order to valorize the essential oil depleted from heptane, chemical composition of this oil was found to obtain, and potential biological activity properties were studied. A total of 172 different compounds were identified by GC-MS in the remaining oil. In vitro tests-including hyaluronidase, tyrosinase, antioxidant, elastase and lipoxygenase, as well as inhibitory tests against two yeasts and 21 bacterial strains commonly found on the skin-were carried out. Overall, bioassays results suggest this heptane-depleted essential oil is a promising active ingredient for cosmetic applications.

Anti-Aging Potential of a Rosa centifolia Stem Extract with Focus on Phytochemical Composition by Bioguided Fractionation

Agricultural practices generate huge amounts of by-products, often simply discarded as waste that must be processed at some cost. The natural by-products revalorisation as raw material to produce high-added value ingredients for various industrial sectors may pave the way towards more sustainable industrial practices, via an optimised utilisation of natural resources. Integrating the circular economy precepts to production systems is considered to be a more and more promising management solution to significantly reduce the environmental impact of economic activities. This article discusses the valorisation of Rosa centifolia stem to produce a natural extract with cosmetic anti-aging potential. To do so, the cosmetic potential of 30 extracts obtained by maceration of agricultural by-products in a hydroalcoholic solvent was evaluated: their activities, as well as their inhibitory activities of specific enzymes were assessed in vitro to identify those that could be used effectively as anti-ageing actives while meeting the consumer's expectations in terms of sustainability, naturality, transparency and traceability.^[1] A hydroalcoholic extract of R. centifolia stem revealed itself particularly promising due to its valuable anti-hyaluronidase and antioxidant activities, and its interesting anti-elastase and anti-inflammatory potential. The bio-guided fractionation of this extract allows the characterisation of three major compounds, e. g., isoquercitrin, quercitrin and euscaphic acid, never identified in R. centifolia previously.

Elucidation of glycosylation sites of kaempferol di-O-glycosides from methanolic extract of the leaves of Prunus domestica subsp. syriaca

RATIONALE

Flavonol glycosides containing the glycosylation patterns 3,4'-di-O and 4',7-di-O are rare in nature and they have not yet been studied in detail by electrospray ionization mass spectrometry (ESI-MS(+/-), in contrast to the flavonol glycosides containing the glycosylation pattern 3,7-di-O.

METHOD

The leaves from Prunus domestica L. subsp. syriaca were extracted with pure methanol or, in order to perform hydrolysis and extraction simultaneously, with a 5% methanolic solution of hydrochloric acid. The high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC)/ESI-MS(+/-) analyses were performed using a Waters model 2690 HPLC pump and a Waters/Micromass ZQ2000 mass spectrometer.

RESULTS

Three kinds of kaempferol di-O-glycosides have been identified, namely kaempferol-3-O-hexoside-7-O-rhamnosides, kaempferol-3-O-pentoside-4'-O-rhamnosides and kaempferol 4',7-di-O-rhamnoside. The identification was performed on the basis of the abundances of the respective Y-type product ions.

CONCLUSIONS

The abundances of [Yⁿ ₀ - H]^-· , Yⁿ ₀ ^- and Yⁿ ₀ ⁺ product ions were of crucial importance for the determination of glycosylation patterns. The obtained results can be useful for HPLC/ESI-MS identification of rare flavonol-di-O-glycosides.

Valorisation of Ribes nigrum L. Pomace, an Agri-Food By-Product to Design a New Cosmetic Active

The ethical and ecological concerns of today’s consumers looking for both sustainable and efficient ingredients in finished products, put a lot of pressure on the cosmetic market actors who are being driven to profoundly modify the strategies adopted to innovate in terms of actives while notably being urged to switch from petroleum- to plant-based ingredients. To produce such natural cosmetic ingredients, agri-food by-products are advocated as raw material due to their reduced carbon footprint as they actively contribute to the worldwide improvement of waste management. The process to transform plant waste materials into such powerful and objectified “green” cosmetic actives in compliance with circular economy principles is a long-term integrated process. Such a development is thoroughly exemplified in the present paper through the description of the design of liquid anti-age ingredients based on Ribes nigrum L. extract. This was obtained by maceration of blackcurrant pomace. and the embodiment of this extract following its phytochemical analysis notably by HPLC-DAD-ELSD and its bioguided fractionation using in vitro bioassays.