From Cosmetics to Innovative Cosmeceuticals—Non-Woven Tissues as New Biodegradable Carriers

Polynucleotides in Aesthetic Medicine: A Review of Current Practices and Perceived Effectiveness

Polynucleotides, complex molecules composed of nucleotides, have gained attention in aesthetic medicine for their potential to regulate gene expression and promote tissue regeneration. This review aims to provide an overview of the current practices and perceived effectiveness of polynucleotides in aesthetic medicine. A comprehensive search of the literature was conducted using keywords related to polynucleotides, cosmetic application, and aesthetic application. Studies were selected based on their relevance to aesthetic medicine and the inclusion of human subjects. The review found that polynucleotides have been used to improve skin texture, reduce wrinkle depth, and enhance facial appearance. The studies reported varying degrees of efficacy and safety, with some studies demonstrating significant improvements in skin elasticity and hydration. However, others reported limited or no benefits. The review also highlighted the need for further research to establish the optimal use and efficacy of polynucleotides in aesthetic medicine. While the existing literature suggests that polynucleotides may have potential benefits in aesthetic medicine, more research is needed to fully understand their mechanisms of action and optimal use. Clinicians should be aware of the current limitations and potential risks associated with the use of polynucleotides in aesthetic medicine.

The digital transformation in pharmacy: embracing online platforms and the cosmeceutical paradigm shift

In the face of rapid technological advancement, the pharmacy sector is undergoing a significant digital transformation. This review explores the transformative impact of digitalization in the global pharmacy sector. We illustrated how advancements in technologies like artificial intelligence, blockchain, and online platforms are reshaping pharmacy services and education. The paper provides a comprehensive overview of the growth of online pharmacy platforms and the pivotal role of telepharmacy and telehealth during the COVID-19 pandemic. Additionally, it discusses the burgeoning cosmeceutical market within online pharmacies, the regulatory challenges faced globally, and the private sector's influence on healthcare technology. Conclusively, the paper highlights future trends and technological innovations, underscoring the dynamic evolution of the pharmacy landscape in response to digital transformation.

Antibacterial mechanism of lignin and lignin-based antimicrobial materials in different fields

The control of microbial infection transmission often relies on the utilization of synthetic and metal-based antimicrobial agents. However, their non-biodegradability and inadequate disposal practices lead to significant environmental contamination. To address this concern, the quest for natural alternatives has gained paramount importance. Lignin, a widely available renewable aromatic compound, emerges as a promising candidate owing to its inherent phenolic moiety, which lends itself well to acting as a natural antimicrobial agent either independently or in combination with other agents. This article provides a comprehensive account of the structure and primary classes of lignin. Additionally, it elucidates the antimicrobial mechanism of lignin, the factors influencing its efficacy, and the methods employed for its detection. Moreover, it describes the progress made in developing the antimicrobial capacity of lignin in different areas. In conclusion, this paper not only outlines the current state of research on the antimicrobial function of lignin, but also identifies challenges and future possibilities for enhancing its antimicrobial properties. This work holds great significance in the ongoing endeavor to contribute to high-impact research on natural alternatives for controlling infections and fostering environmentally conscious practices.

Biopolymer- and Natural Fiber-Based Biomimetic Tissues to Realize Smart Cosmeceuticals and Nutraceuticals Using an Innovative Approach

More sustainable and smart cosmeceuticals and nutraceuticals are necessary due to the ecological transition. In this study, a pullulan-based water solution containing chitin nanofibril-nano-lignin (CN-LG) complexes that encapsulate fish collagen polypeptide, allantoin and nicotinamide was electrospun onto a nonwoven substrate made of bamboo fibers to obtain a smart nanostructured bilayer system for releasing active molecules onto the skin or other body tissues. Infrared spectroscopy was used to characterize the composition of the bilayer system before and after rapid washing of the sample with distilled water and liquids mimicking physiological fluids. The viability of keratinocytes was studied as well as the antioxidant activity, protective activity towards UV light, metalloproteinase release of aged fibroblasts and the inhibitor activity against collagen degradation. Immunomodulatory tests were performed to investigate the anti-inflammatory activity of the bilayer system as well as its indirect antimicrobial activity. The results indicate that the bilayer system can be used in the production of innovative sustainable cosmeceuticals. In general, the adopted strategy can be extended to several smart treatments for fast release that can be commercialized as solid products, thus avoiding the use of preservatives and water.

Recent advances in pharmaceutical and biotechnological applications of lignin-based materials

Lignin, a versatile and abundant biomass-derived polymer, possesses a wide array of properties that makes it a promising material for biotechnological applications. Lignin holds immense potential in the biotechnology and pharmaceutical field due to its biocompatibility, high carbon content, low toxicity, ability to be converted into composites, thermal stability, antioxidant, UV-protectant, and antibiotic activity. Notably, lignin is an environmental friendly alternative to synthetic plastic and fossil-based materials because of its inherent biodegradability, safety, and sustainability potential. The most important findings related to the use of lignin and lignin-based materials are reported in this review, providing an overview of the methods and techniques used for their manufacturing and modification. Additionally, it emphasizes on recent research and the current state of applications of lignin-based materials in the biomedical and pharmaceutical fields and also highlights the challenges and opportunities that need to be overcome to fully realize the potential of lignin biopolymer. An in-depth discussion of recent developments in lignin-based material applications, including drug delivery, tissue engineering, wound dressing, pharmaceutical excipients, biosensors, medical devices, and several other biotechnological applications, is provided in this review article.

Exploring the potential of Halomonas levan and its derivatives as active ingredients in cosmeceutical and skin regenerating formulations

Demand on natural products that contain biological ingredients mimicking growth factors and cytokines made natural polysaccharides popular in pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries. Levan is the β-(2-6) linked, nontoxic, biocompatible, water-soluble, film former fructan polymer that has diverse applications in pharmacy and cosmeceutical industries with its moisturizing, whitening, anti-irritant, anti-aging and slimming activities. Driven by the limited reports on few structurally similar levan polymers, this study presents the first systematic investigation on the effects of structurally different extremophilic Halomonas levan polysaccharides on human skin epidermis cells. In-vitro experiments with microbially produced linear Halomonas levan (HL), its hydrolyzed, (hHL) and sulfonated (ShHL) derivatives as well as enzymatically produced branched levan (EL) revealed increased keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation (113-118 %), improved skin barrier function through induced expressions of involucrin (2.0 and 6.43 fold changes for HL and EL) and filaggrin (1.74 and 3.89 fold changes for hHL and ShHL) genes and increased type I collagen (2.63 for ShHL) and hyaluronan synthase 3 (1.41 for HL) gene expressions together with fast wound healing ability within 24 h (100 %, HL) on 2D wound models clearly showed that HL and its derivatives have high potential to be used as natural active ingredients in cosmeceutical and skin regenerating formulations.

Cosmetic emulsion based on the fucose-rich polysaccharide FucoPol: Bioactive properties and sensorial evaluation

In this study, the physicochemical characteristics, bioactive properties, and sensorial evaluation of a O/W cosmetic formulation containing FucoPol, a fucose-containing bacterial polysaccharide, were assessed. The stability of the FucoPol-based cream, named F-cream, was demonstrated over a period of 2 months at different temperatures (4, 20 and 30 °C), during which it maintained the organoleptic characteristics and pH (5.88-6.19), with minimal variations on the apparent viscosity. Furthermore, no breaking mechanisms occurred upon centrifuging the samples (accelerated stability test) kept at 4 °C and at 30 °C for 60 days. The F-cream presented a shear-thinning and solid-liquid behavior consistent with its envisaged use for topical applications, proving to be a suitable candidate for an anti-aging application due to its antioxidant capacity and effective photoprotection, maintaining cellular preservation. Moreover, the formulation was proven non-cytotoxic for HaCaT cells at concentrations between 0.78 and 12.5 mg/mL, promoting HFFF2 cell migration (46-70 % of wound closure) at a concentration of 2.5 mg/mL, and HaCaT cell migration at a concentration of 10 mg/mL (95-98 % of wound closure). Upon application over the skin, the F-cream provided a hydration and softness with desired spreadability with no residues after application. These findings show that FucoPol has good potential to be used as a functional and/or active ingredient in cosmetic formulations, forming an emulsified cream with appealing sensorial properties that can act as a moisturizer with photoprotection, antioxidant, and regeneration properties.

Natural Polymers and Cosmeceuticals for a Healthy and Circular Life: The Examples of Chitin, Chitosan, and Lignin

The present review considers the design and introduction of new cosmeceuticals in the market, based on natural polymers and active molecules extracted from biomass, in a biomimetic strategy, starting with a consideration of the biochemical mechanisms, followed by natural precision biopolymer production. After introducing the contest of nanobiotechnology in relationship with its applicability for skin contact products and classifying the currently available sustainable polymers, some widely selected abundant biopolymers (chitin, chitosan, and lignin), showing specific functionalities (anti-microbial, anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatory, etc.), are described, especially considering the possibility to combine them in nanostructured tissues, powders, and coatings for producing new cosmeceuticals, but with potentialities in other sectors, such as biomedical, personal care, and packaging sectors. After observing the general increase in market wellness and beauty forecasts over the next few years, parallelisms between nano and macro scales have suggested that nanobiotechnology application expresses the necessity to follow a better way of producing, selecting, and consuming goods that will help to transform the actual linear economy in a circular economy, based on redesigning, reducing, recycling, and reusing.

On Hair Care Physicochemistry: From Structure and Degradation to Novel Biobased Conditioning Agents

Hair is constantly exposed to various adverse external stimuli, such as mechanical or thermal factors, that may cause damage or cause it to lose its shine and smooth appearance. These undesirable effects can be minimized by using hair conditioners, which repair the hair and restore the smooth effect desired by the consumer. Some of the currently used conditioning agents present low biodegradability and high toxicity to aquatic organisms. Consumers are also becoming more aware of environmental issues and shifting their preferences toward natural-based products. Therefore, developing novel, sustainable, natural-based derivatives that can act as conditioning agents in hair care products and thus compete with the traditional systems obtained from non-renewable sources is highly appealing. This paper presents the key physicochemical aspects of the hair conditioning process, including hair structure and degradation, and reviews some of the new alternative conditioning agents obtained from natural resources.

Chemical, Antioxidant, and Antimicrobial Properties of the Peel and Male Flower By-Products of Four Varieties of Punica granatum L. Cultivated in the Marche Region for Their Use in Cosmetic Products

We are now seeing an increase in the production of agri-food waste, which is an essential resource for the recovery of bioactive compounds that may be employed as innovative natural ingredients in cosmetics. To date, the approach to cosmetics preservation has seen a significant shift in the search for biological components that give healthier alternatives for customers and help businesses operate in an environmentally friendly manner. To achieve this goal, we studied pomegranate extracts using the peel and, for the first time, extracts from the male flowers of a wide pomegranate variety cultivated in the Marche region, specifically, the Wonderful, Mollar de Elche, Parfianka, and less-studied G1 varieties. We studied the phenol compounds profile, antioxidant capacity, antimicrobial activity, and cell viability of the obtained pomegranate extracts. The identification and quantification of phenol compounds belonging to different classes, such as hydrolysable tannins, hydroxybenzoic acid, hydroxycinnamic acid, dihydroflavonol, gallocatechin, and anthocyanins, were performed using UPLC-ESI-MS/MS. Punicalagin isomers and punicalin resulted in the most abundant polyphenols found in the peel and male flower extracts. Mollar de Elche 2020 peel extract revealed a high concentration of punicalagin A and B (7206.4 mg/kg and 5812.9), while the content of gallic acid revealed high results in the G1 and Parfianka varieties. All extracts were spectrophotometrically analysed to determine their total phenol content (TPC) using the Folin–Ciocalteu method and their antioxidant capacity (AC). In terms of the total phenol obtained by the Folin–Ciocalteu colorimetric method, Mollar de Elche 2020 extracts reported the highest TPC content of 12.341 µmol GAE/g. Results revealed that the Mollar de Elche and Wonderful 2020 peel extracts demonstrated the highest TPC and AC. Furthermore, AC results indicated that the peel extracts displayed higher AC than the male flower extract due to the high punicalagin content detected by UPLC analysis. The antimicrobial activity testing revealed that the Wonderful and G1 2020 peel extracts resulted active against Escherichia coli, while all extracts exhibited promising anticandidal activity. Additionally, the cytocompatibility was evaluated in keratinocytes HaCaT cells by testing concentrations of pomegranate extracts ranging from 0.15 to 5.00 mg/mL. Extracts were non-toxic for the cells in the tested concentration range. The acquired results may help exploit pomegranate agri-food waste products provided by the Marche region’s short supply chain for their use as an antimicrobial and antioxidant booster in the formulation of cosmetic products.

Food Loss and Food Waste for Green Cosmetics and Medical Devices for a Cleaner Planet

To stay wealthy in a world where all can live in prosperity and wellbeing, it is necessary to develop sustainable growth at net zero emissions to stop climate change, neutralizing both risks and diseases such as the COVID-19 pandemic and inequalities. Changing the worldwide use of the great quantity of food loss and waste can help to move in this direction. At this purpose, it seems useful to transform food waste into richness, extracting and using its content in natural ingredients and biopolymers to make new sustainable products and goods, including cosmetics and medical devices. Many of these ingredients are not only bioactive molecules considered of interest to produce these consumer products but are also useful in reducing the environmental footprint. The active agents may be obtained, for example, from waste material such as grapes or olive pomace, which include, among others natural polymers, phythosterols, vitamins, minerals and unsaturated fatty acids. Among the polymers, chitin and lignin have shown particular interest because biodegradable, nontoxic, skin- and environmentally friendly ingredients can be obtained at low cost from food and forestry waste, respectively. According to our experience, these polymers may be used to make nanocomposites and micro-nanoparticles that encapsulate different active ingredients, and which may be embedded into gel and non-woven tissues to realize advanced medications and smart cosmeceuticals. However, to utilize food waste in the best possible way, a better education of both industry and the consumer is considered necessary, introducing all to change the ways of production and living. The consumer has to understand the need to privilege, food, cosmetics and goods by selecting products known to be effective that also have a low release of carbon dioxide. Thus, they must pay heed to purchasing cosmetics and medical devices made by natural ingredients and packaged by biodegradable and/or reusable containers that are possibly plastic free. Conversely, the industry must try to use natural raw materials obtained from waste by changing their actual production methods. Therefore, both industry and the consumer should depart from the linear economy, which is based on taking, making, and producing waste, to move into a circular economy, which is based on redesigning, reducing, reusing and recycling. Some examples will report on the possibility to use natural polymers, including chitin and lignin, to produce new cosmeceutical tissues. These innovative tissues, to be used as biodegradable carriers for making smart cosmetics and medical devices, may be produced at zero waste to save our health and the planet biodiversity.

Development, Characterization, and Stability Evaluation of the Anti-Cellulite Emgel Containing Herbal Extracts and Essential Oils

Recently, the herbal compress was successfully developed and applied for cellulite treatment. The aim of this study was to formulate a more convenient dosage form of herbal application from the original formula. In addition, we aimed to characterize and evaluate the stability of the developed dosage form. A gelled emulsion, or an “emgel,” incorporated with 0.1 wt% tea and coffee extracts (1:1 ratio) plus 5 wt% essential oils (mixed oil) was prepared. The caffeine content in the finished product obtained from tea and coffee extracts analyzed by HPLC was 48.1 ± 2.3 µg/g. The bio-active marker monoterpenes of mixed oil characterized by headspace GCMS were camphene 50.8 ± 1.8 µg/mg, camphor 251.0 ± 3.2 µg/mg, 3-carene 46.7 ± 1.8 µg/mg, α-citral 75.0 ± 2.1 µg/mg, β-citral 65.6 ± 1.3 µg/mg, limonene 36.8 ± 6.7 µg/mg, myrcene 53.3 ± 4.5 µg/mg, α-pinene 85.2 ± 0.6 µg/mg, β-pinene 88.4 ± 1.1 µg/mg, and terpinene-4-ol 104.3 ± 2.6 µg/mg. The stability study was carried out over a period of 3 months at 4, 25, and 50 °C. The caffeine content showed no significant changes and passed the acceptance criteria of ≥80% at all tested temperatures. However, monoterpenes showed their stability for only 2 months at 50 °C. Therefore, the shelf-life of the emgel was, consequently, calculated to be 31 months using the Q10 method. Thus, the anti-cellulite emgel was successfully formulated. The characterization methods and stability evaluation for caffeine and monoterpenes in an emgel matrix were also successfully developed and validated.