Study of Hydroquinone Mediated Cytotoxicity and Hypopigmentation Effects from UVB-Irradiated Arbutin and DeoxyArbutin

α-arbutin prevents UVA-induced skin photodamage via alleviating DNA damage and collagen degradation in NIH-3T3 cells

Ultraviolet radiation (UV) causes certain side effects to the skin, and their accumulation to a certain extent can lead to accelerated aging of the skin. Recent studies suggest that α-arbutin may be useful in various disorders such as hyperpigmentation disorders, wound healing, and antioxidant activity. However, the role of α-arbutin in skin photodamage is unclear. In this study, under UVA-induced photodamage conditions, α-arbutin treated mouse skin fibroblasts (NIH-3T3) can repair DNA damage and resist apoptosis by reducing the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and increasing the phosphorylation of glycogen synthase kinase 3 beta (GSK3β) to orchestra AKT/GSK3β pathway. Meanwhile, α-arbutin can also regulate collagen metabolism and facilitate the replenishment of collagen by targeting the phosphorylation of SMAD3 to mediate the TGFβ/SMAD pathway in NIH-3T3. In conclusion, we found that α-arbutin can mitigate the detrimental effects of skin photodamage induced by UVA irradiation, and provides a theoretical basis for the use of α-arbutin in the treatment of skin photodamage.

Liposome preparation of alpha-arbutin: stability and toxicity assessment using mouse B16F10 melanoma cells

Melanoma is the most aggressive type of skin cancer, with few therapeutic alternatives following metastasis development. In recent years, drug delivery-associated nanotechnology has shown promising targeted results with diminished adverse effects compared to conventional treatments. This study aimed to (1) examine the effects of plant-derived α-arbutin, a natural compound and (2) compare these findings with bioactively developed liposomes containing α-arbutin utilizing the B16-F10 murine melanoma cell line as a model. Liposomes were obtained through reversed-phase evaporation by applying a spray dryer to assess their stability. The following biologic assays were measured cytotoxicity/antiproliferative (MTT, Neutral Red, and dsDNA PicoGreen). In addition, the levels of melanin and purinergic enzymes were also measured. The production of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and nitric oxide (NO) was determined as a measure of oxidative state. Treatment with nano-liposome containing alpha-arbutin induced a significant 68.4% cytotoxicity, similar to the positive control, in the B16-F10 murine melanoma cell line at 72 hr. Further, arbutin and liposomes containing alpha-arbutin increased levels of ROS and nitrite formation at 72 hr at the highest concentration (100 and 300 µg/ml) of treatments. Arbutin and liposomes containing alpha-arbutin reduced melanin levels at all tested concentrations. In addition, arbutin and alpha-arbutin containing liposomes lowered nucleotides (AMP, ADP, and ATP) and nucleoside (adenosine) levels in melanoma cells. Evidence suggests that α-arbutin containing liposome can be considered as an alternative immunosuppressive agent stimulated in melanoma treatment.

Quantification of Arbutin and its degradation products, hydroquinone and p-Benzoquinone, in hyperpigmentation topical formulation: Effect of extraction procedure and interference assessment

The utilization of Hydroquinone (HQ) in over-the-counter skincare items is subject to restrictions. Consequently, Arbutin (AR) serves as a reliable alternative for addressing hyperpigmentation in non-prescription topical formulations. Nevertheless, AR undergoes decomposition into HQ and p-Benzoquinone (BZ) when exposed to temperature stress, ultraviolet light, or dilution in an acidic environment, all of which can induce skin toxicity. The intention of this paper is to investigate the effect of extraction procedure on the conversion of AR to HQ and or BZ and to evaluate kinetics of AR hydrolysis to HQ. Meanwhile this study aims to evaluate AR and BZ interference with the United States Pharmacopoeia (USP) identification and assessment method for HQ Hydrolytic stress during extraction conditions underwent optimization through systematic screening tests. Subsequent assessment of the residual drug and its degradation products were achieved by HPLC method. The resulting data were meticulously fitted to various kinetic models. To analyze the potential interference of AR in HQ measurement using USP method, the standard concentrations of AR and HQ were analyzed through UV-VIS spectrophotometry. For enhanced certainty, a validated HPLC method analysis was also conducted. Notably, the acid hydrolysis of AR exhibited independence from its initial concentration. So, the hydrolytic degradation of AR exhibited a Zero-order kinetic profile. Furthermore, the proven interference of AR in the UV-VIS spectrophotometry method was identified within the context of the USP method. This study successfully utilized an adopted HPLC method for the concurrent quantification of AR, HQ, and BZ. The potential interference of AR in the UV-VIS spectrophotometric assay for HQ may lead to false results especially for regulatory purposes.

Anti-melanogenic effect of exosomes derived from human dermal fibroblasts (BJ-5ta-Ex) in C57BL/6 mice and B16F10 melanoma cells

Exosomes are involved in intercellular communication by transferring cargo between cells and altering the specific functions of the target cells. Recent studies have demonstrated the therapeutic effects of exosomes in several skin diseases. However, understanding of the effects of exosomes on anti-pigmentation is limited. Therefore, we investigated whether BJ-5ta exosomes (BJ-5ta-Ex) derived from human foreskin fibroblasts regulate melanogenesis and delineated the underlying mechanism. Interestingly, treatment with BJ-5ta-Ex induced decreased melanin content, tyrosinase (TYR) activity, and expression of melanogenesis-related genes, including microphthalmia-related transcription factor (MITF), TYR, tyrosinase-related protein-1 (TRP1), and tyrosinase-related protein-2 (TRP2). In addition, BJ-5ta-Ex downregulated the cAMP/PKA and GSK-3β/β-catenin signaling pathways and upregulated the MAPK/ERK signaling pathway. Notably, treatment with BJ-5ta-Ex inhibited α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone-induced melanosome transport and decreased the expression of key proteins involved in melanosome transport, namely, rab27a and melanophilin (MLPH). To further confirm the depigmenting effects of BJ-5ta-Ex, we conducted experiments using a three-dimensional reconstituted human full skin model and ultraviolet B (UVB)-irradiated mouse model. Treatment with BJ-5ta-Ex improved tissue brightness and reduced the distribution of melanosomes. In UVB-irradiated mouse ears, BJ-5ta-Ex reduced the number of active melanocytes and melanin granules. These results demonstrate that BJ-5ta-Ex can be useful for the clinical treatment of hyperpigmentation disorders.

Effects of donkey milk on UVB-induced skin barrier damage and melanin pigmentation: A network pharmacology and experimental validation study

Introduction

Dairy products have long been regarded as a controversial nutrient for the skin. However, a clear demonstration of donkey milk (DM) on skincare is required.

Methods

In this study, spectrum and chemical component analyses were applied to DM. Then, the effects of DM on UVB-induced skin barrier damage and melanin pigmentation were first evaluated in vitro and in vivo. Cell survival, animal models, and expression of filaggrin (FLG) were determined to confirm the effect of DM on UVB-induced skin barrier damage. Melanogenesis and tyrosinase (TYR) activity were assessed after UVB irradiation to clarify the effect of DM on whitening activities. Further, a network pharmacology method was applied to study the interaction between DM ingredients and UVB-induced skin injury. Meanwhile, an analysis of the melanogenesis molecular target network was developed and validated to predict the melanogenesis regulators in DM.

Results

DM was rich in cholesterols, fatty acids, vitamins and amino acids. The results of evaluation of whitening activities in vitro and in vivo indicated that DM had a potent inhibitory effect on melanin synthesis. The results of effects of DM on UVB‑induced skin barrier damage indicated that DM inhibited UVB-induced injury and restored skin barrier function via up-regulation expression of FLG (filaggrin). The pharmacological network of DM showed that DM regulated steroid biosynthesis and fatty acid metabolism in keratinocytes and 64 melanin targets which the main contributing role of DM might target melanogenesis, cell adhesion molecules (CAMs), and Tumor necrosis factor (TNF) pathway.

Discussion

These results highlight the potential use of DM as a promising agent for whitening and anti-photoaging applications.

Brown Macroalgae Sargassum cristaefolium Extract Inhibits Melanin Production and Cellular Oxygen Stress in B16F10 Melanoma Cells

The brown macroalgae Sargassum has been reported for its anti-UV and photoprotective potential for industrial applications. This study evaluated the melanin inhibition activity of Sargassum cristaefolium (SCE) ethanol extract. Melanogenesis inhibition by SCE was assessed in vitro with B16-F10 melanoma cell models and in silico against melanin regulatory proteins Tyrosinase (TYR) and Melanocortin 1 Receptor (MC1R). The regulatory properties evaluated were the melanin content, intracellular tyrosinase activity and cellular antioxidant activities. In addition, the bioactive compounds detected in SCE were subjected to molecular docking against TYR and MC1R. Based on the results, 150 µg/mL SCE effectively inhibited the production of melanin content and intracellular tyrosinase activity. Cellular tyrosinase activity was reduced by SCE-treated cells in a concentration-dependent manner. The results were comparable to the standard tyrosinase inhibitor kojic acid. In addition, SCE effectively decreased the intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) levels in B16-F10 cells. The antioxidant properties may also contribute to the inhibition of melanogenesis. In addition, LCMS UHPLC-HR-ESI-MS profiling detected 33 major compounds. The results based on in silico study revealed that the bioactive compound putative kaurenoic acid showed a strong binding affinity against TYR (-6.5 kcal/mol) and MC1R (-8.6 kcal/mol). However, further molecular analyses are needed to confirm the mechanism of SCE on melanin inhibition. Nevertheless, SCE is proposed as an anti-melanogenic and antioxidant agent, which could be further developed into cosmetic skin care products.

Enhanced Anti-Melanogenic Effect of Adlay Bran Fermented with Lactobacillus brevis MJM60390

Fermentation is a traditional technique used to increase nutrients, flavonoids, vitamins, minerals, and the flavor of raw materials. In this study, adlay bran was fermented by Lactobacillus brevis MJM60390 (FAB), and the anti-melanogenic effect was investigated. The results demonstrated that FAB significantly suppressed melanin accumulation in mouse melanogenic B16F10 cells, and the activity was higher than non-fermented adlay bran (NFAB). The molecular mechanism study showed that FAB inhibited melanin synthesis by suppressing the gene expression of melanocortin 1 receptor (Mc1r), melanocyte-inducing transcription factor (Mitf), tyrosinase (Tyr), tyrosinase-related protein-1 (Trp-1), and tyrosinase-related protein-2 (Trp-2) genes. Western blotting analysis showed that FAB strongly decreased the expression of Tyr, Trp-1, and Trp-2 compared to NFAB. Furthermore, phenolic compounds such as gallic acid, p-coumaric acid, ferulic acid, and sinapic acid, which are known for their anti-melanogenic effects, were significantly increased in FAB compared with NFAB. These findings suggest that FAB holds great potential as an anti-melanogenic agent and can be used for the development of whitening cosmetics.

Enzymatic Biosynthesis of Simple Phenolic Glycosides as Potential Anti-Melanogenic Antioxidants

Simple phenolics (SPs) and their glycosides have recently gained much attention as functional skin-care resources for their anti-melanogenic and antioxidant activities. Enzymatic glycosylation of SP aglycone make it feasible to create SP glycosides with updated bioactive potentials. Herein, a glycosyltransferase (GT)-encoding gene was cloned from the fosmid libraries of Streptomyces tenjimariensis ATCC 31603 using GT-specific degenerate PCR followed by in silico analyses. The recombinant StSPGT was able to flexibly catalyze the transfer of two glycosyl moieties towards two SP acceptors, (hydroxyphenyl-2-propanol [HPP2] and hydroxyphenyl-3-propanol [HPP3]), generating stereospecific α-anomeric glycosides as follows: HPP2-O-α-glucoside, HPP2-O-α-2″-deoxyglucoside, HPP3-O-α-glucoside and HPP3-O-α-2″-deoxyglucoside. This enzyme seems not only to prefer UDP-glucose and HPP2 as a favorable glycosyl donor and acceptor, respectively but also differentiates the positional difference of the hydroxyl function as acceptor catalytic sites. Paired in vitro and in vivo antioxidant assays represented SPs and their corresponding glycosides as convincing antioxidants in a time- and concentration-dependent manner by scavenging DPPH radicals and intracellular ROS. Even compared to the conventional agents, HPP2 and glycoside analogs displayed improved tyrosinase inhibitory activity in vitro and still suppressed in vivo melanogenesis. Both HPP2 glycosides are further likely to exert the best inhibitory activity against elastase, eventually highlighting these glycosides with enhanced anti-melanogenic and antioxidant activities as promising anti-wrinkle hits.

Variation in Population and Solvents as Factors Determining the Chemical Composition and Antioxidant Potential of Arctostaphylos uva-ursi (L.) Spreng. Leaf Extracts

The bearberry Arctostaphylos uva-ursi (L.) Spreng. has a long history of ethnopharmacological use. This species has been used in folk medicine for centuries as a rich source of raw material abundant in secondary metabolites and is important for medicinal and pharmacological purposes. The plant is a source of herbal material—Uvae ursi folium, which is highly valued and sought by pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries. The studied bearberry leaves can be classified as a suitable herbal material for use in pharmacy; therefore, the investigated populations can be a potentially valuable source of plant material for cultivation and can be used in in vitro cultures and in biotechnological processes. The objective of this study was to characterize the variability of the phytochemical composition and antioxidant activity of water and ethanol bearberry extracts from raw material collected from different natural populations. In each of the twelve A. uva-ursi sites, three leaf samples were collected and analyzed. The water extracts from bearberry leaves were characterized by similar concentration of arbutin (77.64–105.56 mg g⁻¹) and a significantly higher concentration of hydroquinone (6.96–13.08 mg g⁻¹) and corilagin (0.83–2.12 mg g⁻¹) in comparison with the ethanol extracts −77.21–103.38 mg g⁻¹, 10.55–16.72 mg g⁻¹, 0.20–1.54 mg g⁻¹, respectively. The concentration of other metabolites in the water extracts was significantly lower in comparison with the ethanol extracts. In the case of the water extracts, a significant effect of not only total phenolic compounds, but also hydroquinone on the antioxidant parameters, was observed, which indicates the solvent-related activity of these metabolites. Therefore, it is suggested that special attention should be paid to the concentration of not only arbutin, but also hydroquinone in Uvae ursi folium. The latter metabolite serving a very important function as an active bearberry ingredient should be controlled not only in alcoholic extracts but also in water extracts, since bearberry leaves are applied as infusions and decoctions. The results presented in this paper can contribute to appropriate selection of plant material for pharmaceutical, cosmetic, and food industries, with special emphasis on the antioxidant activity of different types of extracts.

Using a Cellular System to Directly Assess the Effects of Cosmetic Microemulsion Encapsulated DeoxyArbutin

DeoxyArbutin (dA) is a tyrosinase inhibitor that has effective skin-lightening activity and has no obvious cytotoxicity toward melanocytes. With the aim of directly evaluating the effects of microemulsions containing dA on cells, we developed oil-in-water (O/W) microemulsions with relatively lower cytotoxicities by using polysorbate-series surfactants. Measurement of the transparent properties and particle size analysis at different storage time periods revealed that the developed microemulsions were stable. Moreover, the developed microemulsions had direct effects on B16-F10 mouse melanoma cells. The anti-melanogenesis activities of dA-containing microemulsions were evidently better than that of the free dA group. The results demonstrated that the developed microemulsion encapsulating dA may allow the use of deoxyArbutin instead of hydroquinone to treat dermal hyperpigmentation disorders in the future.

Pterostilbene Inhibits the Melanogenesis Activity in UVB-Irradiated B164A5 Cells

Pterostilbene is a potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory agent. However, its chemopreventive effects via anti-tyrosinase activity and inhibitory effects on melanin content have not been reported previously. Hence, this study aimed to investigate the anti-melanogenic activity of pterostilbene on UVB-irradiated B164A5 mouse melanoma cells. The effects of pterostilbene and resveratrol on cell viability were determined by MTT assay, whereas melanin content and tyrosinase assay were employed to assess melanogenesis activity. Western blot analysis was performed to determine the tyrosinase expression. Based on the MTT assay, the IC₅₀ value of pterostilbene on UVB-irradiated B164A5 cells was 34.0 ± 3.43 μM, in comparison to resveratrol (>100 μM). Next, 5 and 10 μM pterostilbene showed a significant dose-dependent inhibition (P < .01) of tyrosinase activity in UVB-irradiated B164A5 cells at 37.14 ± 2.71% and 58.36 ± 6.8%, respectively. The findings from the tyrosinase assay also confirmed the downregulation of tyrosinase expression in UVB-irradiated B164A5 cells as measured by Western blot analysis. Finally, 10 μM pterostilbene showed a significantly decreased melanin content (P < .01) in UVB-irradiated B164A5 cells, at 27.34 ± .98 μg/mL. In conclusion, pterostilbene showed anti-melanogenic activity that was 10 times more potent than resveratrol in the UVB-irradiated B164A5 cell.

Arbutin as a Skin Depigmenting Agent with Antimelanogenic and Antioxidant Properties

Arbutin is a compound of hydroquinone and D-glucose, and it has been over 30 years since there have been serious studies on the skin lightening action of this substance. In the meantime, there have been debates and validation studies about the mechanism of action of this substance as well as its skin lightening efficacy and safety. Several analogs or derivatives of arbutin have been developed and studied for their melanin synthesis inhibitory action. Formulations have been developed to improve the stability, transdermal delivery, and release of arbutin, and device usage to promote skin absorption has been developed. Substances that inhibit melanin synthesis synergistically with arbutin have been explored. The skin lightening efficacy of arbutin alone or in combination with other active ingredients has been clinically evaluated. Combined therapy with arbutin and laser could give enhanced depigmenting efficacy. The use of arbutin causes dermatitis rarely, and caution is recommended for the use of arbutin-containing products, especially from the viewpoint that hydroquinone may be generated during product use. Studies on the antioxidant properties of arbutin are emerging, and these antioxidant properties are proposed to contribute to the skin depigmenting action of arbutin. It is hoped that this review will help to understand the pros and cons of arbutin as a cosmetic ingredient, and will lead to future research directions for developing advanced skin lightening and protecting cosmetic products.

A comprehensive review of the therapeutic potential of α-arbutin

Cosmetic dermatology preparations such as bleaching agents are ingredients with skin-related biological activities for increasing and improving skin beauty. The possibility of controlling skin hyperpigmentation disorders is one of the most important research goals in cosmetic preparations. Recently, cosmetics containing herbal and botanical ingredients have attracted many interests for consumers of cosmetic products because these preparations are found safer than other preparations with synthetic components. However, high-quality trial studies in larger samples are needed to confirm safety and clinical efficacy of phytotherapeutic agents with high therapeutic index. Arbutin (p-hydroxyphenyl-β-d-glucopyranoside) is a bioactive hydrophilic polyphenol with two isomers including alpha-arbutin (4-hydroxyphenyl-α-glucopyranoside) and β-arbutin (4-hydroxyphenyl-β-glucopyranoside). It is used as a medicinal plant in phytopharmacy. Studies have shown that alpha-arbutin is 10 times more effective than natural arbutin. A comparison of IC50 values showed that α-arbutin (with concentration 2.0 mM) has a more potent inhibitory activity on human tyrosinase against natural arbutin (with higher concentration than 30 mM). A review of recent studies showed that arbutin could be beneficial in treatment of various diseases such as hyperpigmentation disorders, types of cancers, central nervous system disorders, osteoporosis, diabetes, etc. This study was designed to describe the therapeutic efficiencies of arbutin.

Chrysanthemum Morifolium Extract And Ascorbic Acid-2-Glucoside (AA2G) Blend Inhibits UVA-Induced Delayed Cyclobutane Pyrimidine Dimer (CPD) Production In Melanocytes

Background

Solar ultraviolet radiation (UV) induces DNA damages in skin via direct absorption of UVB or indirectly by photosensitization mediated through UVA. Recent findings have revealed that UVA induces cyclobutane pyrimidine dimer (CPD) generation via chemiexcitation in melanocytes hours after the exposure. This UVA-induced delayed CPD (dark CPD) constitutes the majority of CPD in melanocytes. These findings indicate that sun light can damage the skin hours after the exposure, suggesting the need for skin care products post sun exposure. The main objective of this study was to investigate whether a blend of Chrysanthemum Morifolium flower extract (Chrys) and vitamin C derivative, Ascorbic Acid-2-Glucoside (AA2G), can provide protective effects against reactive oxygen species, melanin formation and UVA-induced dark CPD.

Methods

Intracellular ROS levels were measured in epidermal keratinocytes using DHR123 dye. Melanogenesis inhibition efficacy was determined using B16 cells. As for the dark CPD measurement, Melan-a cells were treated with or without actives for 6 days, then irradiated with UVA at various doses. Cells were exposed with anti-CPD mAb followed by secondary Ab. CPD levels were determined by measuring fluorescent intensity using a high content imaging analysis.

Results

Chrys, AA2G and their blend at various concentrations demonstrated ROS scavenging activity. Though Chrys alone did not show significant melanogenesis inhibition in B16 assay, the blend of Chrys with AA2G demonstrated additive effects in comparison with AA2G alone. The blend of AA2G and Chrys at various concentrations exhibited enhanced efficacy for inhibiting dark CPD compared to AA2G alone.

Conclusion

The results from this study indicate that the use of natural antioxidant, Chrys in combination with AA2G, provides protection against UVA-induced delayed CPD formation by enhancing ROS scavenging activity and melanogenesis inhibition. These findings could potentially be applied for formulating post-sun exposure skin care products, possibly extending to evening-after care products.

Evaluation of the Novel Synthetic Tyrosinase Inhibitor (Z)-3-(3-bromo-4-hydroxybenzylidene)thiochroman-4-one (MHY1498) In Vitro and In Silico

Tyrosinase is a key enzyme in melanin synthesis, catalyzing the initial rate-limiting steps of melanin synthesis. Abnormal and excessive melanin synthesis is the primary cause of serious skin disorders including melasma, senile lentigo, freckles, and age spots. In attempts to find potent and safe tyrosinase inhibitors, we designed and synthesized a novel compound, (Z)-3-(3-bromo-4-hydroxybenzylidene)thiochroman-4-one (MHY1498), and evaluated its tyrosinase inhibitory activity in vitro and in silico. The chemical structures of (Z)-3-benzylidenethiochroman-4-one analogues, including the novel compound MHY1498, were rationally designed and synthesized as hybrid structures of reported potent tyrosinase inhibitors, which were confirmed both in vitro and in vivo: (Z)-5-(substituted benzylidene)thiazolidine-2,4-diones (Compound A) and 2-(substituted phenyl)benzo[d]thiazoles (Compound B). During screening, MHY1498 showed a strong dose-dependent inhibitory effect on mushroom tyrosinase. The IC50 value of MHY1498 (4.1 ± 0.6 μM) was significantly lower than that of the positive control, kojic acid (22.0 ± 4.7 μM). In silico molecular multi-docking simulation and inhibition mechanism studies indicated that MHY1498 interacts competitively with the tyrosinase enzyme, with greater affinity for the active site of tyrosinase than the positive control. Furthermore, in B16F10 melanoma cells treated with α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone, MHY1498 suppressed both melanin production and tyrosinase activity. In conclusion, our data demonstrate that MHY1498, a synthesized novel compound, effectively inhibits tyrosinase activity and has potential for treating hyperpigmentation and related disorders.