The Anti-Wrinkle Mechanism of Melatonin in UVB Treated HaCaT Keratinocytes and Hairless Mice via Inhibition of ROS and Sonic Hedgehog Mediated Inflammatory Proteins

Oral administration of collagen peptide in SKH-1 mice suppress UVB-induced wrinkle and dehydration through MAPK and MAPKK signaling pathways, in vitro and in vivo evidence

Skin aging is induced by exposure to extrinsic factors, causing various diseases and adversely affecting aesthetics. Studies have suggested that as the quality of life improves, demand for beauty and nutritional cosmetics increases. Here, the protective effects of collagen peptide against UV-induced skin damage were evaluated in vitro and in vivo. Collagen peptide inhibited water loss and UVB irradiation-induced HA degradation in the skin of SKH-1 mice. Additionally, collagen peptide dose-dependently inhibited UVB-induced wrinkle formation, epidermal thickness, and elastase activity. These results suggest that collagen peptide regulates collagen degradation through the MAPK and MAPKK pathway. In addition, collagen peptide administration did not affect changes in weight of the liver, spleen, and kidney, or enzymatic indicators of liver damage. Taken together, oral administration of collagen peptide improved the effects of UV-induced skin aging without toxicity. Therefore, this study supports the development of collagen peptide for skin aging prevention in nutricosmetic products.

Supplementary Information

The online version contains supplementary material available at 10.1007/s10068-023-01362-6.

Protective potential of frankincense essential oil and its loaded solid lipid nanoparticles against UVB-induced photodamage in rats via MAPK and PI3K/AKT signaling pathways; A promising anti-aging therapy

Frankincense oil has gained increased popularity in skin care, yet its anti-aging effect remains unclear. The current study aimed to investigate the anti-photoaging effect of frankincense (Boswellia papyrifera (Del.) Hochst., Family Burseraceae) essential oil in an in vivo model. The oil was initially extracted by two methods: hydro-distillation (HD) and microwave-assisted hydro-distillation (MAHD). GC/MS analysis revealed the dominance of n-octyl acetate, along with other marker compounds of B. papyrifera including octanol and diterpene components (verticilla 4(20) 7, 11-triene and incensole acetate). Thereafter, preliminary investigation of the anti-collagenase and anti-elastase activities of the extracted oils revealed the superior anti-aging effect of HD-extracted oil (FO), comparable to epigallocatechin gallate. FO was subsequently formulated into solid lipid nanoparticles (FO-SLNs) via high shear homogenization to improve its solubility and skin penetration characteristics prior to in vivo testing. The optimimal formulation prepared with 0.5% FO, and 4% Tween® 80, demonstrated nanosized spherical particles with high entrapment efficiency percentage and sustained release for 8 hours. The anti-photoaging effect of FO and FO-SLNs was then evaluated in UVB-irradiated hairless rats, compared to Vitamin A palmitate as a positive standard. FO and FO-SLNs restored the antioxidant capacity (SOD and CAT) and prohibited inflammatory markers (IL6, NFκB p65) in UVB-irradiated rats via downregulation of MAPK (pERK, pJNK, and pp38) and PI3K/AKT signaling pathways, alongside upregulating TGF-β expression. Subsequently, our treatments induced Procollagen I synthesis and downregulation of MMPs (MMP1, MMP9), where FO-SLNs exhibited superior anti-photoaging effect, compared to FO and Vitamin A, highlighting the use of SLNs as a promising nanocarrier for FO. In particular, FO-SLNs revealed normal epidermal and dermal histological structures, protected against UVβ-induced epidermal thickness and dermal collagen degradation. Our results indicated the potential use of FO-SLNs as a promising topical anti-aging therapy.

The characteristics and biological activity enhancements of melatonin encapsulations for skin care product applications

Melatonin (MLT) exhibits antioxidant, ultraviolet protection, anti-inflammatory, and anti-aging properties. However, its effectiveness is limited by instability, a short half-life, and incompatible absorption. In this research, we encapsulated melatonin (MLT) in transfersomes (MT) and niosomes (MN) to enhance their properties and investigate their effects through in vitro cell assays using murine macrophages cells and human foreskin fibroblasts cells. The vesicle morphology, vesicle size, polydispersity index, zeta potential, entrapment efficiency (EE%), attenuated total reflectance-Fourier transform spectroscopy (ATR-FTIR) spectra, along with in vitro release, permeation profiles, and stability study were also evaluated. The results showed that both encapsulations displayed spherical morphology at the nanometric scale, their great physical stability and provided an EE% range of 58-78%. The MLT incorporation into the vesicle was confirmed by the ATR-FTIR spectra. Additionally, the encapsulation' release profiles fitted with the Higuchi model, indicating controlled release of melatonin. Furthermore, MT showed greater permeability than MN and MS including melatonin deposition. In cell assays, MT exhibited significantly higher nitric oxide inhibition and stimulation of collagen compared to MN and MS. Therefore, MT demonstrated the highest possibility for anti-inflammatory and collagen-stimulating activities that could be applied in pharmaceutical or anti-aging cosmetic products.

Melatonin reduced colon inflammation but had no effect on energy metabolism in ageing Mongolian gerbils (Meriones unguiculatus)

In photoperiod-sensitive wild animals, the secretion of melatonin (MT) is modulated by external photoperiod, and MT affects inflammation and the ageing process. The beneficial effects of MT in delaying the progress of ageing have been reported in laboratory mice and rats. However, little is known about MT in wild mammals. In the current study, we investigated energy metabolism, microbial community structure and colon homeostasis in ageing Mongolian gerbils (Meriones unguiculatus) through exogenous supplementation of MT to test the hypothesis that MT has beneficial effects on gut homeostasis in ageing gerbils. Exogenous MT supplementation had no effect on energy metabolism in Mongolian gerbils but reduced the levels of circulating tumor necrosis factor-α (TNF-α), immune globulin G (IgG) and corticosterone (CORT). The increase in the level of inflammation in ageing animals was related to changes in the structure and diversity of the gut microbiota. At the genus level, the relative abundance of Prevotella, Treponema, Corynebacterium, and Sphingomonas was increased in ageing animals and decreased significantly by the treatment of MT. Christensenella and Lactobacillus were attenuated in ageing animals, and tended to be enhanced by MT treatment. Functions related to glycosphingolipid biosynthesis-ganglio series and lipopolysaccharide biosynthesis (metabolisms of cofactors, vitamins and glycan) were increased in ageing animals and decreased significantly by the treatment of MT. Our data suggest that a supplement of MT could improve colon homeostasis through changing the composition of gut microbiota and reducing inflammation in ageing gerbils.

Approaches in line with human physiology to prevent skin aging

Skin aging is a complex process that is influenced by intrinsic and extrinsic factors that impact the skin's protective functions and overall health. As the body's outermost layer, the skin plays a critical role in defending it against external threats, regulating body temperature, providing tactile sensation, and synthesizing vitamin D for bone health, immune function, and body homeostasis. However, as individuals age, the skin undergoes structural and functional changes, leading to impairments in these essential functions. In contemporary society, there is an increasing recognition of skin health as a significant indicator of overall wellbeing, resulting in a growing demand for anti-aging products and treatments. However, these products often have limitations in terms of safety, effective skin penetration, and potential systemic complications. To address these concerns, researchers are now focusing on approaches that are safer and better aligned with physiology of the skin. These approaches include adopting a proper diet and maintaining healthy lifestyle habits, the development of topical treatments that synchronize with the skin's circadian rhythm, utilizing endogenous antioxidant molecules, such as melatonin and natural products like polyphenols. Moreover, exploring alternative compounds for sun protection, such as natural ultraviolet (UV)-absorbing compounds, can offer safer options for shielding the skin from harmful radiation. Researchers are currently exploring the potential of adipose-derived stem cells, cell-free blood cell secretome (BCS) and other endogenous compounds for maintaining skin health. These approaches are more secure and more effective alternatives which are in line with human physiology to tackle skin aging. By emphasizing these innovative strategies, it is possible to develop effective treatments that not only slow down the skin aging process but also align better with the natural physiology of the skin. This review will focus on recent research in this field, highlighting the potential of these treatments as being safer and more in line with the skin's physiology in order to combat the signs of aging.

Melatonin inhibits senescence-associated melanin pigmentation through the p53-TYR pathway in human primary melanocytes and the skin of C57BL/6 J mice after UVB irradiation

UVB exposure accelerates skin aging and pigmentation. Melatonin effectively regulates tyrosinase (TYR) activity and aging. The purpose of this study was to determine the association between premature senescence and pigmentation, and the mechanism of melanin synthesis effected by melatonin. Primary melanocytes were extracted and identified from the male foreskin. To inhibit TYR expression, primary melanocytes were transduced with the lentivirus pLKD-CMV-EGFP-2A-Puro-U6-TYR. The wild-type TYR^(+/+) and TYR^(-/-) or TYR^(+/-) knockout C57BL/6 J mice were used to determine the role of TYR on melanin synthesis in vivo. Results showed that UVB-induced melanin synthesis is dependent on TYR in primary melanocytes and mice. Furthermore, in primary melanocytes pretreated with Nutlin-3 or PFT-α to up or downregulate p53, results showed that premature senescence and melanin synthesis increased in primary melanocytes after UVB irradiation at 80 mJ/cm², and further increased after being treated with Nutlin-3, while significantly decreased with PFT-α. In addition, melatonin inhibited UVB-induced premature senescence associated with inactivation of p53 and phosphorylation of p53 on Ser15 (ser-15), a decrease of melanin synthesis accompanied by reduced TYR expression. Moreover, skin erythema and pigmentation induced by UVB were reduced in the dorsal and ear skin of mice topically pretreated with 2.5% melatonin. These indicate that melatonin inhibits UVB-induced senescence-associated pigmentation via the p53-TYR pathway in primary melanocytes and prevents pigmentation obviously in the dorsal and ear skin of C57BL/6 J mice after UVB irradiation. KEY MESSAGES: P53 links UVB irradiation-induced senescence and senescence-associated pigmentation and regulates TYR in primary melanocytes after UVB irradiation. Melatonin inhibits senescence-associated pigmentation through the p53-TYR pathway in primary melanocytes. Melatonin prevents skin erythema and melanin pigmentation induced by UVB irradiation in the dorsal and ear skin of C57BL/6J mice.

Mechanism of action and promising clinical application of melatonin from a dermatological perspective

Melatonin is the main neuroendocrine product in the pineal gland. Melatonin can regulate circadian rhythm-related physiological processes. Evidence indicates an important role of melatonin in hair follicles, skin, and gut. There appears to be a close association between melatonin and skin disorders. In this review, we focus on the latest research of the biochemical activities of melatonin (especially in the skin) and its promising clinical applications.

Mechanism of action and therapeutic effects of oxidative stress and stem cell-based materials in skin aging: Current evidence and future perspectives

Aging is associated with multiple degenerative diseases, including atherosclerosis, osteoporosis, and Alzheimer's disease. As the most intuitive manifestation of aging, skin aging has received the most significant attention. Skin aging results from various intrinsic and extrinsic factors. Aged skin is characterized by wrinkles, laxity, elastosis, telangiectasia, and aberrant pigmentation. The underlying mechanism is complex and may involve cellular senescence, DNA damage, oxidative stress (OS), inflammation, and genetic mutations, among other factors. Among them, OS plays an important role in skin aging, and multiple antioxidants (e.g., vitamin C, glutathione, and melatonin) are considered to promote skin rejuvenation. In addition, stem cells that exhibit self-replication, multi-directional differentiation, and a strong paracrine function can exert anti-aging effects by inhibiting OS. With the further development of stem cell technology, treatments related to OS mitigation and involving stem cell use may have a promising future in anti-skin aging therapy.

Melatonin Prevents UVB-Induced Skin Photoaging by Inhibiting Oxidative Damage and MMP Expression through JNK/AP-1 Signaling Pathway in Human Dermal Fibroblasts

Exposure to ultraviolet (UV) irradiation causes damage to the skin and induces photoaging. UV irradiation stimulates production of reactive oxygen/nitrogen species, which results in activation of epidermal growth factor receptor (EGFR) and mitogen-activated protein kinases (MAPK) in fibroblasts. MAPKs are responsible for activation of activator protein-1 (AP-1), which subsequently upregulates expression of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs). Melatonin is a potent free radical scavenger which is known to have photoprotective effects. The aim of this study is to investigate the underlying molecular mechanisms for the photoprotective effects of melatonin in UVB-irradiated primary human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) in terms of EGFR activation, oxidative/nitrosative damage, JNK/AP-1 activation, MMP activities, and the levels of tissue inhibitors of metalloproteinase-1 (TIMP-1) and type I procollagen (PIP-C). In this study, HDFs were pretreated with 1 μM of melatonin and then irradiated with 0.1 J/cm² of UVB. Changes in the molecules were analyzed at different time points. Melatonin inhibited UVB-induced oxidative/nitrosative stress damage by reducing malondialdehyde, the ratio of oxidized/reduced glutathione, and nitrotyrosine. Melatonin downregulated UV-induced activation of EGFR and the JNK/AP-1 signaling pathway. UVB-induced activities of MMP-1 and MMP-3 were decreased and levels of TIMP-1 and PIP-C were increased by melatonin. These findings suggest that melatonin can protect against the adverse effects of UVB radiation by inhibiting MMP-1 and MMP-3 activity and increasing TIMP-1 and PIP-C levels, probably through the suppression of oxidative/nitrosative damage, EGFR, and JNK/AP-1 activation in HDFs.

HSP27 Protects Skin From Ultraviolet B -Induced Photodamage by Regulating Autophagy and Reactive Oxygen Species Production

Ultraviolet (UV) irradiation has been well documented to be linked with almost all skin problems we know, and both dermis and epidermis may be affected to varying degrees by UV irradiation. Every time when exposed to sunlight without protection, our skin will step closer to photoaging, leading to irreversible consequences ultimately. Heat shock protein 27 (HSP27) is a vital protein involved in cell growth, autophagy, apoptosis, drug resistance, tumor genesis and metastasis. Evidence suggests that the organism is subjected to various internal and external environmental stresses (heat, oxidative stress, organic toxicants, etc.), and HSP27 with high expression has protective function. However, the expression of HSP27 in coping with UV irradiation have not been examined thoroughly. In this study, photodamage models were developed through different doses of UVB irradiation in human epidermal keratinocytes (HEKs) (30 mJ/cm²), human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) (150 mJ/cm²) and mouse skin (2,700 mJ/cm²). HSP27 knockdown decreased cell viability and increased the incidence of UVB-induced reactive oxygen species (ROS) production. We got consistent results in vivo and vitro. Compared with that in the UVB group, the expression of LC3B was significantly lower, while the expression of p62 was significantly higher in the UVB + si-HSP27 group. It was also revealed that HSP27 knockdown reduced the expressions of some antioxidants, such as superoxide dismutase (SOD) and catalase (CAT), which accelerated UVB-induced ROS release. Moreover, histological results showed that epidermis was thickened and collagen fibers were disorganized in the UVB + si-HSP27 group. These findings have demonstrated that HSP27 might play a photoprotective role in the UVB-induced skin damage process by maintaining the normal autophagy and antioxidant level. It is implied that HSP27 could be a potential therapeutic target of photodamage. However, determination of the definitive mechanism requires further exploration.

Recent Updates on Nanocosmeceutical Skin Care and Anti-Aging Products

Nanotechnology is an innovative area of science that deals with things smaller than 100 nanometers. The influence of nanotechnology in the cosmetic industry is overwhelming since it can enhance the properties attained by the particles at the nano level which includes color, solubility, etc, and also promotes the bioavailability of API. A plethora of nanomaterials can be employed in cosmetics including organic and inorganic nanoparticles. Unlike orthodox carriers, they facilitate easy penetration of the product into the skin and thereby increasing the stability and allowing a controlled drug release so that they can permeate deeper into the skin and start revitalizing it. Nanomaterials rejuvenate the skin by forming an occlusive barrier to inhibit the loss of water from the skin's surface and thereby moisturize the skin. Nano-cosmeceuticals are used to provide better protection against UV radiation, facilitate deeper skin penetration, and give long-lasting effects. Although they still have some safety concerns, hence detailed characterization or risk assessments are required to fulfill the standard safety requirements. In this review, an attempt is made to make a brief overview of various nanocosmeceutical skincare and anti-aging products.

Protective Role of Melatonin and Its Metabolites in Skin Aging

The skin, being the largest organ in the human body, is exposed to the environment and suffers from both intrinsic and extrinsic aging factors. The skin aging process is characterized by several clinical features such as wrinkling, loss of elasticity, and rough-textured appearance. This complex process is accompanied with phenotypic and functional changes in cutaneous and immune cells, as well as structural and functional disturbances in extracellular matrix components such as collagens and elastin. Because skin health is considered one of the principal factors representing overall “well-being” and the perception of “health” in humans, several anti-aging strategies have recently been developed. Thus, while the fundamental mechanisms regarding skin aging are known, new substances should be considered for introduction into dermatological treatments. Herein, we describe melatonin and its metabolites as potential “aging neutralizers”. Melatonin, an evolutionarily ancient derivative of serotonin with hormonal properties, is the main neuroendocrine secretory product of the pineal gland. It regulates circadian rhythmicity and also exerts anti-oxidative, anti-inflammatory, immunomodulatory, and anti-tumor capacities. The intention of this review is to summarize changes within skin aging, research advances on the molecular mechanisms leading to these changes, and the impact of the melatoninergic anti-oxidative system controlled by melatonin and its metabolites, targeting the prevention or reversal of skin aging.

Is Phytomelatonin Complex Better Than Synthetic Melatonin? The Assessment of the Antiradical and Anti-Inflammatory Properties

This work aims to assess the recently established anti-inflammatory and antioxidant potential of melatonin of plant origin extracted from the plant matrix as a phytomelatonin complex (PHT-MLT), and compare its activity with synthetic melatonin (SNT-MLT) when used on its own or with vitamin C. For this purpose, a COX-2 enzyme inhibitory activity test, an antiradical activity in vitro and on cell lines assays, was performed on both PHT-MLT and SNT-MLT products. COX-2 inhibitory activity of PHT-MLT was found to be ca. 6.5 times stronger than that of SNT-MLT (43.3% and 6.7% enzyme inhibition, equivalent to the activity of acetylsalicylic acid in conc. 30.3 ± 0.2 and 12.0 ± 0.3 mg/mL, respectively). Higher antiradical potential and COX-2 inhibitory properties of PHT-MLT could be explained by the presence of additional naturally occurring constituents in alfalfa, chlorella, and rice, which were clearly visible on the HPLC-ESI-QTOF-MS fingerprint. The antiradical properties of PHT-MLT determined in the DPPH test (IC₅₀ of 21.6 ± 1 mg of powder/mL) were found to originate from the presence of other metabolites in the 50% EtOH extract while SNT-MLT was found to be inactive under the applied testing conditions. However, the antioxidant studies on HaCaT keratinocytes stimulated with H₂O₂ revealed a noticeable activity in all samples. The presence of PHT-MLT (12.5, 25 and 50 µg/mL) and vitamin C (12.5, 25 and 50 µg/mL) in the H₂O₂-pretreated HaCaT keratinocytes protected the cells from generating reactive oxygen species. This observation confirms that MLT-containing samples affect the intracellular production of enzymes and neutralize the free radicals. Presented results indicated that MLT-containing products in combination with Vitamin C dosage are worth to be considered as a preventive alternative in the therapy of various diseases in the etiopathogenesis, of which radical and inflammatory mechanisms play an important role.

Anti-damage effect of theaflavin-3'-gallate from black tea on UVB-irradiated HaCaT cells by photoprotection and maintaining cell homeostasis

Keratinocytes are rich in lipids and are the main sensitive cells to ultraviolet (UV) rays. Theaflavins are the core functional components of black tea and are known as the "soft gold" in tea. In this study, ultraviolet-B (UVB) irradiation caused apoptosis and necrosis of human epidermal keratinocytes (HaCaT). EGCG and the four theaflavins had anti-UVB damage activity, among which theaflavin-3'-gallate (TF3'G) had the best activity. The results of biophysical and molecular biology experiments showed that TF3'G has anti-damage effects on UVB-irradiated HaCaT cells through the dual effects of photoprotection and maintenance of cell homeostasis. That is, TF3'G preincubation could absorb UV rays, reduce the accumulation of aging-related heterochromatin (SAHF) formation, increase mitochondrial membrane potential, downregulate NF-κB inflammation pathways, inhibit the formation of cytotoxic aggregates, and protect biological macromolecules Structure, etc. The accumulation of conjugated π bonds and the balance benzoquinone are the core functional structure of TF3'G with high efficiency and low toxicity. The study indicates that TF3'G has the potential to inhibit the photoaging and intrinsic aging of skin cells.

Melatonin and Indole-3-Propionic Acid Reduce Oxidative Damage to Membrane Lipids Induced by High Iron Concentrations in Porcine Skin

Iron excess in tissues results in increased oxidative damage. Among different tissues, the skin can particularly be severely damaged by oxidative stress, as it is exposed not only to endogenous but also directly to exogenous pro-oxidants. The skin is especially vulnerable to harmful oxidative stress. Melatonin and indole-3-propionic acid (IPA), two indole substances, are efficient antioxidants. This study aims to evaluate the potential protective effects of melatonin and IPA against oxidative damage to membrane lipids (lipid peroxidation (LPO)), induced in porcine skin homogenates by the Fenton reaction (Fe²⁺ + H₂O₂ → Fe³⁺ + ^•OH + OH⁻) when iron is used in extremely high concentrations. Skin homogenates were incubated in the presence of FeSO₄ (2400, 1200, 600, 300, 150 and 75 µM) + H₂O₂ (5 mM) with/without melatonin or IPA. LPO level (MDA + 4-HDA/mg protein) was measured spectrophotometrically. Melatonin, in its highest used concentration (5.0 mM), prevented FeSO₄ (1200 mM)-induced LPO, whereas it was effective in concentrations as low as 2.5 mM against all lower iron concentrations. IPA was protective in concentrations as low as 2.5 mM independently of FeSO₄ concentration. In conclusion, melatonin and IPA effectively protect against oxidative damage to membrane lipids induced by high concentrations of iron in porcine skin; therefore, both can be considered pharmacological agents in the case of disorders associated with excessive iron accumulation in the skin.

Melatonin as an Antioxidant and Immunomodulator in Atopic Dermatitis-A New Look on an Old Story: A Review

Atopic dermatitis (AD) is common inflammatory dermatosis, typically with chronic and recurrent course, which significantly reduces the quality of life. Sleep disturbances are considered to be remarkably burdensome ailments in patients with AD, and are routinely included during assessment of disease severity. Therefore, endogenous substances engaged in the control of circadian rhythms might be important in pathogenesis of AD and, possibly, be used as biomarkers of disease severity or even in development of novel therapies. Melatonin (MT), the indoleamine produced by pineal gland (but also by multiple other tissues, including skin), plays a pivotal role in maintaining the sleep/wake homeostasis. Additionally, it possesses strong antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, which might directly link chronic skin inflammation and sleep abnormalities characteristic of AD. The objective of this work is to systematically present and summarize the results of studies (both experimental and clinical) that investigated the role of MT in the AD, with a focus on the antioxidant and immunomodulatory effects of MT.

Antiwrinkle and Antimelanogenesis Effects of Tyndallized Lactobacillus acidophilus KCCM12625P

UVB irradiation can induce generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) that cause skin aging or pigmentation. Lactobacillus acidophilus is a well-known probiotic strain that regulates skin health through antimicrobial peptides and organic products produced by metabolism and through immune responses. In this study, we investigated the antioxidative, antiwrinkle, and antimelanogenesis effects of tyndallized Lactobacillus acidophilus KCCM12625P (AL). To analyze the effects of AL on UV irradiation-induced skin wrinkle formation in vitro, human keratinocytes and human dermal fibroblasts were exposed to UVB. Subsequent treatment with AL induced antiwrinkle effects by regulating wrinkle-related genes such as matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), SIRT-1, and type 1 procollagen (COL1AL). In addition, Western blotting assays confirmed that regulation of MMPs by AL in keratinocytes was due to regulation of the AP-1 signaling pathway. Furthermore, we confirmed the ability of AL to regulate melanogenesis in B16F10 murine melanoma cells treated with α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH). In particular, AL reduced the mRNA expression of melanogenesis-related genes such as tyrosinase, TYRP-1, and TYRP-2. Finally, we used Western blotting assays to confirm that the antimelanogenesis role of AL was due to its regulation of the cyclic adenosine monophosphate (cAMP) signaling pathway. Collectively, these results indicate that AL has an antiwrinkle activity in damaged skin and can inhibit melanogenesis. Thus, AL should be considered an important substance for potential use in anti-aging drugs or cosmetics.

Anti-Photoaging Effect of Plant Extract Fermented with Lactobacillus buchneri on CCD-986sk Fibroblasts and HaCaT Keratinocytes

Ultraviolet (UV) exposure triggers the abnormal production of reactive oxygen (ROS) species and the expression of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) that are responsible for photoaging. Probiotics are widely used in healthcare and for immune enhancement. One probiotic, Lactobacillus buchneri is found in Kimchi. This study was aimed at assessing the anti-photoaging effect of plant extracts fermented with L. buchneri (PELB) to develop functional cosmetics. We investigated the anti-photoaging effect of PELB in a UVB-induced photoaging in vitro model and selected effective extracts using the elastase inhibition assay, ELISA for Type I procollagen and collagenase-1, and quantitative real time PCR. Normal human dermal fibroblasts and epidermal keratinocytes were pre-treated with PELB and exposed to UVB. We found that PELB decreased elastase activity and increased type I collagen expression in a UVB-induced photoaging in vitro model. In addition, PELB greatly reduced collagenase activity and MMP mRNA levels in a UVB-induced photoaging in vitro model. Furthermore, PELB promoted the expression of moisture factor and anti-oxidant enzymes in a UVB-induced photoaging in vitro model. These results indicated that the PELB could be potential candidates for the protective effects against UVB-induced photoaging. Overall, these results suggest that PELB might be useful natural components of cosmetic products.

Theophylline exerts complex anti-ageing and anti-cytotoxicity effects in human skin ex vivo

OBJECTIVE

Theophylline is a phosphodiesterase inhibitor that is being used clinically for asthma therapy. In addition, it is recognized as a cosmetic agent with possible anti-ageing and anti-oxidative properties. Nevertheless, how it affects human skin is still poorly examined.

METHODS

Theophylline (10 or 100 µM) was administered to the culture medium of full-thickness human skin ex vivo for 24 or 72 h.

RESULTS

Theophylline stimulated protein expression of the anti-oxidant metallothionein-1 and mRNA levels of collagen I and III. Assessment of fibrillin-1 immunohistology revealed enhanced structural stability of dermal microfibrils. Theophylline also exerted extracellular matrix-protective effects by decreasing MMP-2 and MMP-9 mRNA levels, partially antagonizing the effects of menadione, the potent, toxic ROS donor. In addition, it decreased menadione-stimulated epidermal keratinocytes apoptosis. Interestingly, theophylline also increased the level of intracutaneously produced melatonin, that is the most potent ROS-protective and DNA damage repair neuromediator, and tendentially increased protein expression of MT1, the melatonin receptor. Theophylline also increased the expression of keratin 15, the stem cell marker, in the epidermal basal layer but did not change mitochondrial activity or epidermal pigmentation.

CONCLUSION

This ex vivo pilot study in human skin shows that theophylline possesses several interesting complex skin-protective properties. It encourages further examination of theophylline as a topical candidate for anti-ageing treatment.

The Glucosamine-derivative NAPA Suppresses MAPK Activation and Restores Collagen Deposition in Human Diploid Fibroblasts Challenged with Environmental Levels of UVB

The ultraviolet (UV) component of solar radiation is the driving force of life on earth, but it can cause photoaging and skin cancer. In this study, we investigated the effects of the glucosamine-derivative 2-(N-Acetyl)-L-phenylalanylamido-2-deoxy-β-D-glucose (NAPA) on human primary fibroblasts (FBs) stimulated in vitro with environmental levels of UVB radiation. FBs were irradiated with 0.04 J cm^-2 UVB dose, which resulted a mild dosage as shown by the cell viability and ROS production measurement. This environmental UVB dose induced activation of MAP kinase ERK 1/2, the stimulation of c-fos and at lower extent of c-jun, and in turn AP-1-dependent up-regulation of pro-inflammatory factors IL-6 and IL-8 and suppression of collagen type I expression. On the contrary, 0.04 J cm^-2 UVB dose was not able to stimulate metalloprotease production. NAPA treatment was able to suppress the up-regulation of IL-6 and IL-8 via the inhibition of MAP kinase ERK phosphorylation and the following AP-1 activation, and was able to attenuate the collagen type I down-regulation induced by the UVBs. Taken together, our results show that NAPA, considering its dual action on suppression of inflammation and stimulation of collagen type I production, represents an interesting candidate as a new photoprotective and photorepairing agents.

Protective effects of Oxya chinensis sinuosa Mishchenko against ultraviolet B-induced photodamage in hairless mice

Background

Edible insects, including Oxya chinensis sinuosa Mishchenko (Oc), which is consumed as food in Asia, are considered as a human food shortage alternative, and also as a preventive measure against environmental destruction. Ultraviolet B (UVB) irradiation, which causes skin photodamage, is considered as an extrinsic skin aging factor. It reduces skin hydration, and increases wrinkle formation and reactive oxygen species (ROS) and inflammatory cytokine expression. Thus, the objective of this study was to investigate the anti-aging effects of an ethanol extract of Oc (Oc.Ex).

Methods

A UVB-irradiated hairless mouse model was used to examine relevant changes in skin hydration, wrinkle formation, and skin epidermal thickness. Also, antioxidant markers such as superoxide dismutase (SOD) and catalase (CAT) were analyzed, and Oc. Ex skin protective effects against UVB irradiation-induced photoaging were examined by determining the levels of skin hydration factors.

Results

Oc.Ex improved epidermal barrier dysfunctions such as increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and capacitance reduction in UVB-irradiated mice. It upregulated skin hydration-related markers, including hyaluronic acid (HA), transforming growth factor (TGF)-β, and pro-collagen, in UVB-irradiated mice, compared with the vehicle control group. It also reduced UVB-induced wrinkle formation, collagen degradation, and epidermal thickness. Additionally, it remarkably suppressed the increased expression of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), and restored the activity of SOD and CAT in UVB-irradiated mice, compared with the vehicle control group. Furthermore, Oc. Ex treatment downregulated the production of inflammatory cytokines and phosphorylation of the mitogen-activated protein kinases (MAPKs) signaling pathway activated by UVB irradiation.

Conclusion

This study revealed that Oc. Ex reduced skin thickness and the degradation of collagen fibers by increasing hydration markers and collagen-regulating factors in the skin of UVB-irradiated mice. It also inhibited UVB-induced antioxidant enzyme activity and inflammatory cytokine expression via MAPK signaling downregulation, suggesting that it prevents UVB-induced skin damage and photoaging, and has potential for clinical development in skin disease treatment.

Protective Effects of Melatonin on the Skin: Future Perspectives

When exposed to hostile environments such as radiation, physical injuries, chemicals, pollution, and microorganisms, the skin requires protective chemical molecules and pathways. Melatonin, a highly conserved ancient molecule, plays a crucial role in the maintenance of skin. As human skin has functional melatonin receptors and also acts as a complete system that is capable of producing and regulating melatonin synthesis, melatonin is a promising candidate for its maintenance and protection. Below, we review the studies of new metabolic pathways involved in the protective functions of melatonin in dermal cells. We also discuss the advantages of the topical use of melatonin for therapeutic purposes and skin protection. In our view, endogenous intracutaneous melatonin production, together with topically-applied exogenous melatonin and its metabolites, represent two of the most potent defense systems against external damage to the skin.

A Peptide YGDEY from Tilapia Gelatin Hydrolysates Inhibits UVB-mediated Skin Photoaging by Regulating MMP-1 and MMP-9 Expression in HaCaT Cells

In this study, we investigated the protective effects of a peptide (YGDEY, Tyr-Gly-Asp-Glu-Tyr) isolated from tilapia skin gelatin hydrolysates (TGHs), against UVB-induced photoaging in human keratinocytes (HaCaT) cells. Results showed that YGDEY significantly decreased levels of intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS), increased antioxidant factors (Superoxide Dismutase, SOD and Glutathione, GSH) expression and maintained balance between GSH and GSSG in HaCaT cells. Comet assay shows that YGDEY can protect DNA from oxidative damage. Furthermore, it significantly inhibited MMP-1 (collagenase) and MMP-9 (gelatinase) expression and increased Type I procollagen production. In addition, the molecular docking study showed that YGDEY may form active sites with MMP-1 and MMP-9. Moreover, Western blot analysis was utilized to measure the protein levels of UVB-induced mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK) and nuclear factor-kappa B (NF-κB) signaling pathways. Therefore, these results suggested that YGDEY has a therapeutic effectiveness in prevention of UVB-induced cellular damage, and it is a candidate worthy of being developed as a potential natural antioxidant and food additive.

Effects of Anthocyanins and Melatonin From Purple Waxy Corn By-Products on Collagen Production by Cultured Human Fibroblasts

Cob and silk of purple waxy corn ( Zea mays L. Ceratina Kulesh) are underutilized sources of anthocyanins, which could be extracted by various solvents: water, ethanol, methanol, 50% ethanol, and 50% methanol. Anthocyanin and melatonin levels were investigated. The quantifications of anthocyanins as cyanidin-3-glucoside, pelargonidin-3-glucoside, and peonidin-3-glucoside were determined by high-performance liquid chromatography combined with mass spectrometry (HPLC-MS/MS), and melatonin by HPLC-fluorescence. The ability of collagen production upon exposure to human skin fibroblasts from the different macerates of the cob and silk was also studied. All cob extracts showed higher level of anthocyanins than silk extracts. The 50% ethanol extract of cob showed the highest cyanidin-3-glucoside level at 2.42 ± 0.03 mg/g dried weight, whereas that of silk showed the highest content of cyanidin-3-glucoside at 1.95 ± 0.04 mg/g dried weight. Although cob extracts contained more anthocyanins than silk extracts, silk extracts could stimulate collagen production more than cob extracts. Therefore, the collagen production was likely due to the amount of melatonin in the silk extracts, which contained greater quantities than those of the cob, and the lipophilicity of melatonin or the hydrophilicity of anthocyanins also affected the ability of cell permeation. Thus, anthocyanins and melatonin levels should be considered for the biological activity study.

Extraction conditions for Rosa gallica petal extracts with anti-skin aging activities

The anti-skin inflammatory activities of rose petal extracts have been described in our previous study. Because skin inflammation is closely linked to skin aging, our study investigated the effects of Rosa gallica petals on skin aging-related activities such as skin whitening and anti-wrinkle properties. Each sample was prepared via extraction using different ethanol ratios with the objective of evaluationg optimal extraction conditions for industrial application. Aqueous 50% (v/v) EtOH extract of R. gallica petal significantly suppressed tyrosinase activity, melanin production, and solar UV-induced matrix metalloproteinase-1, a hall mark of wrinkle formation. In addition, the aqueous 50% (v/v) EtOH extract showed the highest antioxidative effect and had highest flavonoid contents, consistent with the reported anti-aging effects. Overall, our findings suggest that R. gallica petals extracts exhibit anti-aging effects. Furthermore, 50% EtOH extraction, in particular, was optimal for the highest anti-aging, and anti-oxidative effects as well as to obtain the highest flavonoid content.

Hydrangea serrata (Thunb.) Ser. Extract Attenuate UVB-Induced Photoaging through MAPK/AP-1 Inactivation in Human Skin Fibroblasts and Hairless Mice

Skin photoaging is mainly caused by exposure to ultraviolet (UV) light, which increases expressions of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) and destroys collagen fibers, consequently inducing wrinkle formation. Nutritional factors have received scientific attention for use as agents for normal skin functions. The aim of this study was to investigate the effect of hot water extracts from the leaves of Hydrangea serrata (Thunb.) Ser. (WHS) against ultraviolet B (UVB)-induced skin photoaging and to elucidate the underlying molecular mechanisms in human foreskin fibroblasts (Hs68) and HR-1 hairless mice. WHS recovered UVB-reduced cell viability and ameliorated oxidative stress by inhibiting intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) generation in Hs68 cells. WHS rescued UVB-induced collagen degradation by suppressing MMP expression, and reduced the mRNA levels of inflammatory cytokines. These anti-photoaging activities of WHS were associated with inhibition of the activator protein 1 (AP-1), signal transduction and activation of transcription 1 (STAT1), and mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK) signaling pathways. Oral administration of WHS effectively alleviated dorsal skin from wrinkle formation, epidermal thickening, collagen degradation, and skin dehydration in HR-1 hairless mice exposed to UVB. Notably, WHS suppressed UVB activation of the AP-1 and MAPK signaling pathways in dorsal mouse skin tissues. Taken together, our data indicate that WHS prevents UVB-induced skin damage due to collagen degradation and MMP activation via inactivation of MAPK/AP-1 signaling pathway.

Tryptophan Photoproduct FICZ Upregulates IL1A, IL1B, and IL6 Expression via Oxidative Stress in Keratinocytes

Ultraviolet B (UVB) irradiation activates the aryl hydrocarbon receptor (AHR), generates the reactive oxygen species (ROS), and induces the production of proinflammatory cytokines such as IL1A, IL1B, and IL6. 6-Formylindolo[3,2-b]carbazole (FICZ) is a tryptophan-derived photoproduct that is induced by UVB irradiation and activates the AHR. However, its role in upregulating proinflammatory cytokine expression has never been investigated. Here, we demonstrated that FICZ enhanced ROS generation in human HaCaT keratinocytes in an AHR-dependent manner. FICZ also upregulated the expression of IL1A and IL1B, as well as the expression of IL6 and the production of its protein product, in an AHR- and ROS-dependent fashion. Here, we demonstrate that the actions of FICZ can substitute for the hazardous effects of UVB exposure, contributing to the further understandings of the mechanisms which UVB harms organisms.