Anti-Wrinkle Benefits of Peptides Complex Stimulating Skin Basement Membrane Proteins Expression

Succinylated Type I Collagen Regulates Ferroptosis to Attenuate Skin Photoaging

During the process of photoaging in the skin, Succinylated type I collagen has a significant effect on reversing the damage caused by UVB radiation, with the regulation of cellular ferroptosis being one of its important pathophysiological mechanisms. Specifically, Succinylated type I collagen reduces the expression of key cell cycle regulators P16, P21, and P53, as well as the ferroptosis-related factor Acyl-CoA Synthetase Long Chain Family Member 4 (ACSL4), induced by UVB radiation in cells and tissues. Meanwhile, it increases the expression of key factors Glutathione Peroxidase 4 (GPX4) and Solute Carrier Family 7 Member 11 (SLC7A11), which inhibit ferroptosis. Additionally, our study also reveals the impact of Succinylated type I collagen on the levels of malondialdehyde (MDA), glutathione (GSH), and reactive oxygen species (ROS) in cells and tissues, directly affecting the cells' ability to cope with oxidative stress. This further suggests that Succinylated type I collagen may improve skin photoaging through various pathways, including regulating ferroptosis, antioxidation, promoting collagen synthesis, protecting the skin barrier, reducing pigmentation, and inhibiting inflammatory responses, contributing to maintaining healthy and youthful skin.

Implications of Long-Term Double Eyelid Tape Use

BACKGROUNDS

The widespread adoption of double eyelid tapes (DET) to achieve the desired double eyelid aesthetic has prompted investigations into their long-term effects. Given the delicate and complex anatomy of the eyelid, concerns have emerged about the impact of DETs on eyelid structure and the outcomes of subsequent surgical procedures.

METHODS

A cohort of 267 outpatients from our department was recruited between January 2022 and January 2024 to participate in a survey assessing the usage of double eyelid tape (DET). Eyelid laxity was subsequently tested in all outpatients using the Vertical Lid Pull and Parallel Lid Pull methods. Among all participants, 33 underwent double eyelid surgery, with 22 having a history of excessive DET usage and 11 with no DET usage. Post-operative outcomes, including operation duration, satisfaction levels, and complications were recorded. Additionally excised eyelid skin tissues during surgery underwent Masson's staining and EVG staining to analyze collagen and elastic fibers.

RESULTS

Among surveyed outpatients (mean age: 23.79 ± 3.71 years, 99.63% female, mean BMI: 21.56 ± 1.75 kg/m2), 56.55% had oculopathy with ametropia being predominant (53.93%). Hooded eyelids were the most prevalent congenital condition (62.54%). Nearly half (49.44%) used Double Eyelid Tapes (DET) for 1-2 years, with 70.04% experiencing discomfort and 70.79% reporting permanent eyelid shape change. Lid pull measurements showed no significant difference in vertical pulls between DET users and non-users, but parallel pulls varied significantly (p<0.05). Complications like asymmetry, numbness, and hypertrophic scars were exclusive to DET users. Physician evaluations favored non-DET users significantly (p<0.05). Histological analysis revealed an interesting finding that individuals using DET have higher collagen levels and notable changes in skin structure when compared to non-users.

CONCLUSIONS

Prolonged use of double eyelid tape (DET) may result in eyelid laxity, impacting ocular health and complicating blepharoplasty procedures.

LEVEL OF EVIDENCE IV

This journal requires that authors assign a level of evidence to each article. For a full description of these Evidence-Based Medicine ratings, please refer to the Table of Contents or the online Instructions to Authors www.springer.com/00266 .

Skin senescence-from basic research to clinical practice

The most recognizable implications of tissue aging manifest themselves on the skin. Skin laxity, roughness, pigmentation disorders, age spots, wrinkles, telangiectasia or hair graying are symptoms of physiological aging. Development of the senescent phenotype depends on the interaction between aging cells and remodeling of the skin's extracellular matrix (ECM) that contains collagen and elastic fiber. Aging changes occur due to the combination of both endogenous (gene mutation, cellular metabolism or hormonal agents) and exogenous factors (ultraviolet light, environmental pollutants, and unsuitable diet). However, overproduction of mitochondrial reactive oxygen species (ROS) is a key factor driving cellular senescence. Aging theories have disclosed a range of diverse molecular mechanisms that are associated with cellular senescence of the body. Theories best supported by evidence include protein glycation, oxidative stress, telomere shortening, cell cycle arrest, and a limited number of cell divisions. Accumulation of the ECM damage is suggested to be a key factor in skin aging. Every cell indicates a functional and morphological change that may be used as a biomarker of senescence. Senescence-associated β-galactosidase (SA-β-gal), cell cycle inhibitors (p16INK4a, p21CIP1, p27, p53), DNA segments with chromatin alterations reinforcing senescence (DNA-SCARS), senescence-associated heterochromatin foci (SAHF), shortening of telomeres or downregulation of lamina B1 constitute just an example of aging biomarkers known so far. Aging may also be assessed non-invasively through measuring the skin fluorescence of advanced glycation end-products (AGEs). This review summarizes the recent knowledge on the pathogenesis and clinical conditions of skin aging as well as biomarkers of skin senescence.

Physicochemical and Antioxidative Properties of Protein Hydrolysates from Residual Goat Placenta Extract by Two Different Methods

Protein hydrolysates from the goat placenta provide multiple benefits, such as immune system enhancement, antioxidant activities, and reductions in uric acid levels. Despite these benefits, their industrial applications have been underexplored. This study aimed to prepare extract protein hydrolysates (GPERPs) from residual goat placenta extract (GPER) and assess their functional properties, focusing on how different drying methods influence these properties. The essential amino acid contents were 30.94% for the GPER and 34.11% for the GPERPs. Moreover, all the essential amino acids were present, and the amino acid score (AAS) for each exceeded 1.0 in the GPERPs. The foaming properties of the spray-dried GPERPs (95.56 ± 5.89%) were significantly greater than those of the freeze-dried GPERPs (49.13 ± 4.17%) at pH values of 4.0~10.0. The emulsion stability (ES) of the spray-dried GPERPs (453.44 ± 8.13 min) was notably greater than that of the freeze-dried GPERPs (245.58 ± 7.12 min). Furthermore, the water retention capacity (WRC) of the freeze-dried GPERPs (201.49 ± 6.12%) was significantly greater than that of the spray-dried GPERPs (103.35 ± 7.13%), except at pH 10.0 (101.44 ± 8.13%). Similarly, at pH values of 6.0, 8.0, and 10.0, the oil retention capacity (ORC) of the freeze-dried GPERPs (715.58 ± 12.15%) was significantly greater than that of the spray-dried GPERPs (560.56 ± 11.15%), although the opposite trend was noted under acidic conditions. In terms of the antioxidant activity, the ability of the goat placenta extract residual protein hydrolysates (GPERPs) to scavenge DPPH radicals and superoxide anion radicals increased with the increasing peptide powder concentration, and the maximum scavenging rates of the DPPH radicals (39.5 ± 0.56%) and superoxide anions (81.2 ± 0.54%) in the freeze-dried peptide powder were greater than those in the spray-dried peptide powder. These findings contribute to the understanding of the physicochemical and antioxidant properties of GPERPs under various drying methods and provide fundamental data for the development of functional foods based on GPERPs.

Ectoin attenuates cortisone-induced skin issues by suppression GR signaling and the UVB-induced overexpression of 11β-HSD1

BACKGROUND

Accelerated pace of modern work and lifestyles subject individuals to various external and psychological stressors, which, in turn, can trigger additional stress through visible signs of fatigue, hair loss, and obesity. As the primary stress hormone affecting skin health, cortisol connects to the glucocorticoid receptor (GR) to aggravate skin issues induced by stress. This activation depends on the expression of 11β-hydroxysteroid dehydrogenase 1 (11β-HSD1) in skin cells, which locally converts cortisone-produced by the central and peripheral hypothalamic-pituitary-adrenal axis-into its active form.

METHODS

Our study delves deeper into stress's adverse effects on the skin, including the disruption of keratinocyte structural proteins, the loss of basement membrane proteins, and the degradation of collagen.

RESULTS

Remarkably, we discovered that Ectoin, an amino acid derivative obtained from halophilic bacteria, is capable of mitigating the inhibitory impacts of cortisone on the expression of cutaneous functional proteins, including involucrin, loricrin, laminin-5, and claudin-1. Moreover, Ectoin reduces the suppressive effect of stress on collagen and hyaluronic acid synthesis by impeding GR signal transduction. Additionally, Ectoin counterbalances the UVB-induced overexpression of 11β-HSD1, thereby diminishing the concentration of endogenous glucocorticoids.

CONCLUSION

Our findings illuminate the significant potential of Ectoin as a preventative agent against stress-induced skin maladies.

Photoprotective activities of Capsosiphon fulvescens in UVB-induced SKH-1 mice and human keratinocytes

Capsosiphon fulvescens (CF) is a green alga widely consumed in East Asian countries, particularly in Korea. It has a rich composition of vitamins, minerals, dietary fibers, and bioactive compounds, which contribute to its multiple therapeutic properties. Its application ranges from acting as an antioxidant and anti-inflammatory agent to supporting the skin system. Despite these benefits of CF, the effects and mechanisms of action related to photoaging of the skin have not yet been elucidated. To investigate the photoprotective effects of CF against photoaging, both animal (SKH-1 mouse) and cell models (HaCaT cell line) were used in this study. As a result, administering the CF extract over a period of 10 weeks, which included times of Ultraviolet B (UVB) exposure, significantly reduced erythema and various UVB-induced skin changes, such as wrinkle formation, and the thickening of the epidermis and dermis, as well as alterations in the length and depth of wrinkles. Furthermore, our investigation into CF extract's antiwrinkle properties revealed its efficacy in enhancing skin hydration and collagen content, counteracting the collagen depletion and moisture loss induced by UVB radiation. Also, the fact that the levels of p-ERK, p-p38, and p-JNK proteins went down shows that the CF extract might have a controlling effect on the MAPK signaling pathways. Our findings suggest that CF holds significant potential for preventing photoaging, providing a foundation for the development of functional foods or botanical drugs targeting skin aging and related skin disorders. PRACTICAL APPLICATION: This research proved that Capsosiphon fulvescen, a green alga widely consumed in East Asian countries, provides photoprotective activities against UV-induced skin aging. Therefore, Capsosiphon fulvescen can be utilized as functional foods or botanical drugs targeting skin aging and related skin disorders.

Wrinkle-Improving Effect of Novel Peptide That Binds to Nicotinic Acetylcholine Receptor

Wrinkles, one of the most common signs of aging, are primarily caused by the continuous contraction of muscles. Muscle contraction is induced by the binding of acetylcholine (ACh), released at the neuromuscular junction, to nicotinic acetylcholine receptor (nAChR) present on the muscle cell surface. In this study, we aimed to develop a wrinkle-improving peptide that inhibits the binding of ACh to nAChR using peptide phage display technology. Our peptide showed a remarkably high binding affinity to nAChR subunit α1, with a value below 1 µM, and was found to inhibit the action of ACh through its interaction with these receptors. Furthermore, it increased collagen synthesis in skin cells and upregulated the expression of the aquaporin-3 (AQP3) and hyaluronan synthase-2 (HAS2) genes. These results confirm that the peptide effectively inhibits muscle contraction and enhances skin elasticity and hydration, contributing to its wrinkle-reducing effects. Clinical studies on humans observed significant improvement in wrinkles after three weeks of use, with substantial reduction observed after six weeks. In conclusion, these findings demonstrate the efficacy of the peptide (named Medipep) in reducing wrinkles.

Anti-aging activity of Syn-Ake peptide by in silico approaches and in vitro tests

The increase in the aging population worldwide has led scientists to turn to research to prevent the aging process. In this context, synthetic peptides emerge as candidate molecules for developing new anti-aging products. This study aims to investigate the possible interactions of Syn-Ake, a synthetic peptide, with matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) and Sirtuin 1 (SIRT1), which are the targets of anti-aging activities with in silico approaches, and to determine the antioxidant activity, and safety profile of the peptide by in vitro methods such as cytotoxicity (MTT) and genotoxicity (Ames) tests. The molecular docking study showed that the docking score energy of MMP receptors was in the order of MMP-13 < MMP-8 < MMP-1. Syn-Ake peptide provided the lowest and the most stable binding to the SIRT1 receptor at -9.32 kcal/mol. Binding interaction and protein-ligand stability of Syn-Ake with MMPs and SIRT1 in a dynamic system were predicted by 50 ns molecular dynamic (MD) simulation studies. The MD results showed that the Syn-Ake peptide remained stable in the active site of MMP-13 and SIRT1 receptors during 50 ns simulations. In addition, the antioxidant activity of Syn-Ake was investigated using diphenyl-2-picril-hydrazine (DPPH) method since it is crucial to remove free radicals that are effective in skin aging. The results revealed the concentration-dependent increased DPPH radical scavenging activity of the peptide. Finally, the safety of the Syn-Ake was investigated, and the safe dose of the peptide was determined. In conclusion, in silico and in vitro analyses show that the Syn-Ake peptide may hold promise in anti-aging formulations with its high efficacy and safety profile.Communicated by Ramaswamy H. Sarma.

A review of the efficacy of popular eye cream ingredients

Background

Due to the periorbital region's high susceptibility to damage from external factors, along with its tendency to demonstrate early signs of aging, periorbital skin is a common target for antiaging therapy.

Objective

This review aims to evaluate the efficacy of active ingredients commonly found in eye creams, particularly focusing on their impact on periorbital skin concerns.

Methods

A comprehensive review of the literature on active ingredients in eye creams, including retinoids, vitamins C and E, peptides, ceramides, hyaluronic acid, caffeine, and niacinamide, was conducted. Clinical studies assessing the efficacy of these ingredients in addressing periorbital concerns were examined.

Results

Studies demonstrate the potential of these ingredients to improve various aspects of periorbital skin, including hydration, elasticity, collagen synthesis, and reduction of inflammatory mediators. Ingredients such as retinoids, vitamin C, and caffeine show promise in addressing wrinkles and hyperpigmentation, while peptides and hyaluronic acid aid in collagen production and hydration. Niacinamide and ceramides offer benefits in reducing wrinkles and enhancing the skin barrier function.

Limitations

The lack of clinical trials specifically targeting eye cream formulations and periorbital skin is a notable limitation. Furthermore, the variability in study designs, sample sizes, and concentrations of active ingredients across studies complicates direct comparisons.

Conclusion

The reviewed studies highlight the potential of active ingredients in eye creams to address various periorbital concerns. Further research, particularly large-scale clinical trials focusing on eye cream formulations and their efficacy on periorbital skin, is warranted to establish their significance and comparability with other dermatologic products.

Poly-l-lactic acid microspheres delay aging of epidermal stem cells in rat skin

Objective

Injectable skin fillers offer a wider range of options for cutaneous anti-aging and facial rejuvenation. PLLA microspheres are increasingly favored as degradable and long-lasting fillers. The present study focused solely on the effect of PLLA on dermal collagen, without investigating its impact on the epidermis. In this study, we investigated the effects of PLLA microspheres on epidermal stem cells (EpiSCs).

Methods

Different concentrations of PLLA microspheres on epidermal stem cells (EpiSCs) in vitro through culture, and identification of primary rat EpiSCs. CCK-8 detection, apoptosis staining, flow cytometry, Transwell assay, wound healing assay, q-PCR analysis, and immunofluorescence staining were used to detect the effects of PLLA on EpiSCs. Furthermore, we observed the effect on the epidermis by injecting PLLA into the dermis of the rat skin in vivo.

Results

PLLA microspheres promote cell proliferation and migration while delaying cell senescence and maintaining its stemness. In vitro, Intradermal injection of PLLA microspheres in the rat back skin resulted in delayed aging, as evidenced by histological and immunohistochemical staining of the skin at 2, 4, and 12 weeks of follow-up.

Conclusion

This study showed the positive effects of PLLA on rat epidermis and EpiSCs, while providing novel insights into the anti-aging mechanism of PLLA.

Extracellular Vesicles from Ecklonia cava and Phlorotannin Promote Rejuvenation in Aged Skin

Plant-derived extracellular vesicles (EVs) elicit diverse biological effects, including promoting skin health. EVs isolated from Ecklonia cava (EV-EC) carry heat shock protein 70 (HSP70), which inhibits key regulators such as TNF-α, MAPKs, and NF-κB, consequently downregulating matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs). Aging exacerbates oxidative stress, upregulating MAPK and NF-κB signaling and worsening extracellular matrix degradation in the skin. E. cava-derived phlorotannin (PT) mitigates MAPK and NF-κB signaling. We evaluated the impact of EV-EC and PT on skin rejuvenation using an in vitro keratinocyte senescence model and an in vivo aged-mouse model. Western blotting confirmed the presence of HSP70 in EV-EC. Treatment with EV-EC and PT in senescent keratinocytes increased HSP70 expression and decreased the expression of TNF-α, MAPK, NF-κB, activator protein-1 (AP-1), and MMPs. Oxidative stress was also reduced. Sequential treatment with PT and EV-EC (PT/EV-EC) yielded more significant results compared to individual treatments. The administration of PT/EV-EC to the back skin of aged mice mirrored the in vitro findings, resulting in increased collagen fiber accumulation and improved elasticity in the aged skin. Therefore, PT/EV-EC holds promise in promoting skin rejuvenation by increasing HSP70 expression, decreasing the expression of MMPs, and reducing oxidative stress in aged skin.

Radiofrequency Treatment Attenuates Age-Related Changes in Dermal-Epidermal Junctions of Animal Skin

The dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ) is essential for maintaining skin structural integrity and regulating cell survival and proliferation. Thus, DEJ rejuvenation is key for skin revitalization, particularly in age-related DEJ deterioration. Radiofrequency (RF) treatment, known for its ability to enhance collagen fiber production through thermal mechanisms and increase heat shock protein (HSP) expression, has emerged as a promising method for skin rejuvenation. Additionally, RF activates Piezo1, an ion channel implicated in macrophage polarization toward an M2 phenotype and enhanced TGF-β production. This study investigated the impact of RF treatment on HSP47 and HSP90 expression, known stimulators of DEJ protein expression. Furthermore, using in vitro and aged animal skin models, we assessed whether RF-induced Piezo1 activation and the subsequent M2 polarization could counter age-related DEJ changes. The RF treatment of H2O2-induced senescent keratinocytes upregulated the expression of HSP47, HSP90, TGF-β, and DEJ proteins, including collagen XVII. Similarly, the RF treatment of senescent macrophages increased Piezo1 and CD206 (M2 marker) expression. Conditioned media from RF-treated senescent macrophages enhanced the expression of TGF-β and DEJ proteins, such as nidogen and collagen IV, in senescent fibroblasts. In aged animal skin, RF treatment increased the expression of HSP47, HSP90, Piezo1, markers associated with M2 polarization, IL-10, and TGF-β. Additionally, RF treatment enhanced DEJ protein expression. Moreover, RF reduced lamina densa replication, disrupted lesions, promoted hemidesmosome formation, and increased epidermal thickness. Overall, RF treatment effectively enhanced DEJ protein expression and mitigated age-related DEJ structural changes by increasing HSP levels and activating Piezo1.

The Innovative and Evolving Landscape of Topical Exosome and Peptide Therapies: A Systematic Review of the Available Literature

Topical antiaging therapies provide noninvasive delivery of active therapeutics. Exosomes, or extracellular nanovesicles, and peptides, small strings of amino acids, have shown promise as topical therapies in early trials, but neither is FDA approved. This review aims to elucidate the current and future landscape of topical exosomes and peptides as therapeutics for skin rejuvenation. A literature search was conducted using the keywords "peptides" OR "exosomes" AND "skin" OR "rejuvenation." Primary endpoints included mechanisms of action in humans or live animals as well as clinical data supporting the use of exosomes or peptides topically for skin rejuvenation or wound healing. Secondary endpoints were safety, side effects, and efficacy. The articles were collected, organized, and sorted using the Covidence software (Melbourne, Australia) for systematic review. Nine articles evaluating topical application of exosomes and 9 of peptides met inclusion criteria. Topical exosomes were found to increase collagen deposition, accelerate wound healing, and improve overall cosmesis. Several clinical trials are currently underway. Topical peptides were found to improve appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, elasticity and viscoelasticity, skin texture, skin thickness, and the potential for accelerated wound healing. Peptides are quite common in "cosmeceutical" products, and several patents have been filed for topical peptide products aimed at increasing skin rejuvenation. This could indicate a movement toward pursuing FDA approval. The future of topical exosome and peptide products for the purpose of skin rejuvenation appears promising. Preliminary data from the studies reviewed here indicates that these products have the potential to be safe and effective.

Level of Evidence 3

Porcine Placenta Peptide Inhibits UVB-Induced Skin Wrinkle Formation and Dehydration: Insights into MAPK Signaling Pathways from In Vitro and In Vivo Studies

Excessive exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation from sunlight accelerates skin aging, leading to various clinical manifestations such as wrinkles, dryness, and loss of elasticity. This study investigated the protective effects of porcine placenta peptide (PPP) against UVB-induced skin photoaging. Female hairless SKH-1 mice were orally administered PPP for 12 weeks, followed by UVB irradiation. PPP significantly reduced wrinkle formation, improved skin moisture levels, and prevented collagen degradation. Mechanistically, PPP inhibited the expression of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) and upregulated collagen production. Moreover, PPP elevated hyaluronic acid levels, contributing to enhanced skin hydration. Additionally, PPP demonstrated antioxidant properties by increasing the expression of the antioxidant enzyme GPx-1, thereby reducing UVB-induced inflammation. Further molecular analysis revealed that PPP suppressed the activation of p38 MAP kinase and JNK signaling pathways, crucial mediators of UV-induced skin damage. These findings highlight the potential of porcine placental peptides as a natural and effective intervention against UVB-induced skin photoaging. The study provides valuable insights into the mechanisms underlying the protective effects of PPP, emphasizing its potential applications in skincare and anti-aging formulations.

Skin ageing and topical rejuvenation strategies

Skin ageing is a complex process involving the additive effects of skin's interaction with its external environment, predominantly chronic sun exposure, upon a background of time-dependent intrinsic ageing. Skin health and beauty is considered one of the principal factors perceived to represent overall 'health and wellbeing'; thus, the demand for skin rejuvenation strategies has rapidly increased, with a worldwide annual expenditure expected to grow from $US24.6 billion to around $US44.5 billion by 2030 (https://www.databridgemarketresearch.com/reports/global-facial-rejuvenation-market). Skin rejuvenation can be achieved in several ways, ranging from laser and device-based treatments to chemical peels and injectables; however, topical skin care regimes are a mainstay treatment for ageing skin and all patients seeking skin rejuvenation can benefit from this relatively low-risk intervention. While the most efficacious topical rejuvenation treatment is application of tretinoin (all-trans retinoic acid) - a prescription-only medicine considered to be the clinical 'gold standard' - a hybrid category of 'cosmeceutical' products at the midpoint of the spectrum of cosmetics and pharmaceutical has emerged. This article reviews the clinical manifestations of skin ageing and the available topical treatments for skin rejuvenation, including retinoids, peptides and antioxidants.

New Biotinylated GHK and Related Copper(II) Complex: Antioxidant and Antiglycant Properties In Vitro against Neurodegenerative Disorders

Neurodegenerative diseases affect millions of people worldwide. The failure of the enzymatic degradation, the oxidative stress, the dyshomeostasis of metal ions, among many other biochemical events, might trigger the pathological route, but the onset of these pathologies is unknown. Multi-target and multifunctional molecules could address several biomolecular issues of the pathologies. The tripeptide GHK, a bioactive fragment of several proteins, and the related copper(II) complex have been largely used for many purposes, from cosmetic to therapeutic applications. GHK derivatives were synthesized to increase the peptide stability and improve the target delivery. Herein we report the synthesis of a new biotin-GHK conjugate (BioGHK) through orthogonal reactions. BioGHK is still capable of coordinating copper(II), as observed by spectroscopic and spectrometric measurements. The spectroscopic monitoring of the copper-induced ascorbate oxidation was used to measure the antioxidant activity Cu(II)-BioGHK complex, whereas antiglycant activity of the ligand towards harmful reactive species was investigated using MALDI-TOF. The affinity of BioGHK for streptavidin was evaluated using a spectrophotometric assay and compared to that of biotin. Finally, the antiaggregant activity towards amyloid-β was evaluated using a turn-on fluorescent dye. BioGHK could treat and/or prevent several adverse biochemical reactions that characterize neurodegenerative disorders, such as Alzheimer's disease.

Analgesic efficacy of collagen peptide in knee osteoarthritis: a meta-analysis of randomized controlled trials

BACKGROUND

The management of knee osteoarthritis involves various treatment strategies. It is important to explore alternative therapies that are both safe and effective. Collagen peptides have emerged as a potential intervention for knee osteoarthritis. This study aims to evaluate the analgesic effects and safety of collagen peptide in patients diagnosed with knee osteoarthritis.

METHODS

We conducted a systematic literature search following the guidelines of the Preferred Reporting Items for Systematic Reviews and Meta-Analyses statement. Multiple databases including PubMed, Scopus, EMBASE, Web of Science, Cochrane, and ClinicalTrials.gov were searched for randomized controlled trials (RCTs) published up to 27 May 2023 that focused on the analgesic outcomes and adverse events associated with collagen peptides or hydrolyzed collagen in patients with osteoarthritis. We assessed the quality of the included studies and the strength of evidence using the Cochrane ROB 2.0 tool and Grading of Recommendations, Assessment, Development, and Evaluations.

RESULTS

Four trials involving 507 patients with knee osteoarthritis were included and analyzed using the random-effects model. All these trials were considered to have a high risk of bias. Our results revealed a significant difference in pain relief between the collagen peptide group and the placebo group in patients with knee osteoarthritis (standardized mean difference: - 0.58; 95% CI - 0.98, - 0.18, p = 0.004; I2: 68%; quality of evidence: moderate). However, there was no significant difference in the risk of adverse events between collagen peptide and placebo (odds ratio: 1.66; 95% CI 0.99, 2.78, p = 0.05; I2: 0%; quality of evidence: very low).

CONCLUSIONS

Our findings demonstrate significant pain relief in patients with knee osteoarthritis who received collagen peptides compared to those who received placebo. In addition, the risk of adverse events did not differ significantly between the collagen peptide group and the placebo group. However, due to potential biases and limitations, well-designed randomized controlled trials are needed to validate and confirm these findings.

Skin antiaging effects of a multiple mechanisms hyaluronan complex

OBJECTIVE

Intrinsic skin aging is an inevitable process with reduced extracellular matrix deposition and impaired mechanical integrity in the dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ). Hyaluronan is one of the most promising natural ingredients. In this research, multiple mechanisms of a novel hyaluronan complex against intrinsic skin aging were revealed.

METHOD

Immunohistochemical analysis and enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay were employed to evaluate the effect of low-molecular weight sodium hyaluronan, its acetylated derivative and HA complex on expression of matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) and type I collagen in normal human fibroblasts. Then, immunohistochemical analysis and hematoxylin and eosin staining was carried out to evaluate identical effects of HA complex in reconstructed skin equivalents, as well as its benefits on histological structure and DEJ.

RESULT

In normal human dermal fibroblasts, the hyaluronan complex, which contains low-molecular weight sodium hyaluronate and its acetylated derivative, has synergistic effects by increasing type I collagen expression. At the same time, MMP-1 production was inhibited. This was confirmed in subsequent experiments with skin equivalent, and intriguingly, the hyaluronan complex was also found to increase the expression of two DEJ proteins.

CONCLUSION

The multimechanism hyaluronan complex in this proof-of-concept study exhibited skin antiaging effects in vitro through inhibiting the expression of MMP-1 and enhancing type I collagen accumulation and the expression of DEJ proteins, which reveals new avenues for investigating more biological activities of various types of hyaluronan.

Effects of cadmium and diethylhexyl phthalate on skin microbiota of Rana chinensis tadpoles

Skin microbiotas play a crucial role in the health, homeostasis, and immune function of amphibians. The contaminants in water could affect the structure and composition of microbial communities. The effects of coexisting pollutants on frogs cannot be adequately explained by a single exposure due to the coexistence of Cd and DEHP in the environment. Following exposure to Cd and/or DEHP, we examined the histological characteristics of Rana chensinensis tadpoles. We also used the 16S rRNA gene sequencing technique to assess the relative abundance of skin microbial communities among tadpoles from each treatment group. Our findings indicate that R. chensinensis' skin experienced some degree of injury due to exposure to Cd and DEHP, which led to the imbalance of their skin microbial community homeostasis and thus interfered with the normal trial status of the host. That may eventually lead to the decline of the amphibian population.

The Extracellular Matrix Vitalizer RATM Increased Skin Elasticity by Modulating Mitochondrial Function in Aged Animal Skin

Oxidative stress-induced cellular senescence and mitochondrial dysfunction result in skin aging by increasing ECM levels-degrading proteins such as MMPs, and decreasing collagen synthesis. MMPs also destroy the basement membrane, which is involved in skin elasticity. The extracellular matrix vitalizer RATM (RA) contains various antioxidants and sodium hyaluronate, which lead to skin rejuvenation. We evaluated whether RA decreases oxidative stress and mitochondrial dysfunction, eventually increasing skin elasticity in aged animals. Oxidative stress was assessed by assaying NADPH oxidase activity, which is involved in ROS generation, and the expression of SOD, which removes ROS. NADPH oxidase activity was increased in aged skin and decreased by RA injection. SOD expression was decreased in aged skin and increased by RA injection. Damage to mitochondrial DNA and mitochondrial fusion markers was increased in aged skin and decreased by RA. The levels of mitochondrial biogenesis markers and fission markers were decreased in aged skin and increased by RA. The levels of NF-κB/AP-1 and MMP1/2/3/9 were increased in aged skin and decreased by RA. The levels of TGF-β, CTGF, and collagen I/III were decreased in aged skin and increased by RA. The expression of laminin and nidogen and basement membrane density were decreased in aged skin and increased by RA. RA increased collagen fiber accumulation and elasticity in aged skin. In conclusion, RA improves skin rejuvenation by decreasing oxidative stress and mitochondrial dysfunction in aged skin.

Exploring the mechanism of MP gel against skin photoaging based on network pharmacology, molecular docking, and experimental validation

OBJECTIVE

Long-term and high exposure to UV radiation can lead to the development of skin photoaging diseases. Therefore, there is an ongoing need for more natural and safe drugs to prevent or treat skin photoaging diseases.

METHODS

The Traditional Chinese Medicine Systems Pharmacology Database and Analysis Platform database were used to collect the active compounds and corresponding targets of Cnidii Fructus, Arnebiae Radix, Angelicae Sinensis Radix, Poria, and Borneolum. The GeneCards database and the NCBI Gene database were used to collect the targets of skin photoaging diseases. The STRING database was used to construct a protein-protein interaction network formed by the intersecting targets of drugs and diseases. The Metascape database was applied for Gene Ontology and Kyoto Encyclopedia of Genes and Genomes pathway enrichment analysis of the targets. Molecular docking between active compounds and targets was verified by Autodock. After that, the skin photoaging model of mice was established and treated with MP gel. The skin characterization on the back of mice was observed, and the ameliorative effect of MP gel on skin photoaging was evaluated by histological and epidermal thickness assays. The MDA content and SOD activity were measured. Caspase-3 expression in mouse skin tissues was detected by immunohistochemistry, quantitative real-time polymerase chain reaction assay, and Western blot.

RESULTS

The results of network pharmacology experiments showed that the natural drugs have multi-component, multi-target therapeutic disease characteristics. The results of animal studies showed that MP gel improved the health of photoaged skin, promoted skin structural integrity, had antioxidant properties and significantly inhibited caspase-3 expression.

CONCLUSION

The experimental validation of the results of the preliminary network pharmacology analysis was carried out in animal experiments, which confirmed part of the mechanism of action of MP gel in the prevention and treatment of skin photoaging.

High Stability and Low Irritation of Retinol Propionate and Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate Supramolecular Nanoparticles with Effective Anti-Wrinkle Efficacy

Gravi-A nanoparticles, composed of retinyl propionate (RP) and hydroxypinacolone retinoate (HPR), were prepared by encapsulating the two using the high-pressure homogenization technique. The nanoparticles are effective in anti-wrinkle treatment with high stability and low irritation. We evaluated the effect of different process parameters on nanoparticle preparation. Supramolecular technology effectively produced nanoparticles with spherical shapes with an average size of 101.1 nm. The encapsulation efficiency was in the 97.98–98.35% range. The system showed a sustained release profile for reducing the irritation caused by Gravi-A nanoparticles. Furthermore, applying lipid nanoparticle encapsulation technology improved the transdermal efficiency of the nanoparticles, thereby allowing these to penetrate deep into the dermis layer to achieve precise and sustained release of active ingredients. Gravi-A nanoparticles can be extensively and conveniently used in cosmetics and other related formulations by direct application.

Structural Optimization of Cannabidiol as Multifunctional Cosmetic Raw Materials

Cannabidiol (CBD), derived from the plant cannabis, can be used in the cosmetics industry for its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-wrinkle and whitening effects. However, CBD is purified from the hemp plant extract, its source is very limited and under strict control. So in this study, computational and experimental methods were combined to search for novel CBD substitutes with high biology potencies. The action mode between CBD and target protein cannabidiol receptor 1 was studied to find the key skeleton, which was used to virtually screen a natural products database to search for compounds with 70% similarity. The hit compounds with high docking scores were selected for the ABTS and DPPH free radical scavenging experiments for antioxidant evaluation. The effects on the expressions of nitric oxide (NO), interleukin-6 (IL-6), COX-2 and iNOS in RAW264.7 cell line were detected to demonstrate their anti-inflammatory abilities. The effect of anti-wrinkle ability were evaluated by detecting the extracellular matrix, such as collagen, elastin, fibronectin and reactive oxygen species (ROS) in HFF-1. The effects on melanin production and tyrosinase activity in Bb16F10 were also detected. As a result, two compounds were found to be superior to cannabidiol, in terms of antioxidant, anti-wrinkle and whitening efficacy with a lower cytotoxicity.

Intradermally delivered mRNA-encapsulating extracellular vesicles for collagen-replacement therapy

The success of messenger RNA therapeutics largely depends on the availability of delivery systems that enable the safe, effective and stable translation of genetic material into functional proteins. Here we show that extracellular vesicles (EVs) produced via cellular nanoporation from human dermal fibroblasts, and encapsulating mRNA encoding for extracellular-matrix α1 type-I collagen (COL1A1) induced the formation of collagen-protein grafts and reduced wrinkle formation in the collagen-depleted dermal tissue of mice with photoaged skin. We also show that the intradermal delivery of the mRNA-loaded EVs via a microneedle array led to the prolonged and more uniform synthesis and replacement of collagen in the dermis of the animals. The intradermal delivery of EV-based COL1A1 mRNA may make for an effective protein-replacement therapy for the treatment of photoaged skin.

Pharmaceutical based cosmetic serums

The growth and demand for cosmeceuticals (cosmetic products that have medicinal or drug-like benefits) have been enhanced for the last few decades. Lately, the newly invented dosage form, i.e., the pharmaceutical-based cosmetic serum has been developed and widely employed in various non-invasive cosmetic procedures. Many pharmaceutical-based cosmetic serums contain natural active components that claim to have a medical or drug-like effect on the skin, hair, and nails, including anti-aging, anti-wrinkle, anti-acne, hydrating, moisturizing, repairing, brightening and lightening skin, anti-hair fall, anti-fungal, and nail growth effect, etc. In comparison with other pharmaceutical-related cosmetic products (creams, gels, foams, and lotions, etc.), pharmaceutical-based cosmetic serums produce more rapid and incredible effects on the skin. This chapter provides detailed knowledge about the different marketed pharmaceutical-based cosmetic serums and their several types such as facial serums, hair serums, nail serums, under the eye serum, lip serum, hand, and foot serum, respectively. Moreover, some valuable procedures have also been discussed which provide prolong effects with desired results in the minimum duration of time after the few sessions of the serum treatment.

Design and Evaluation of Complex Polypeptide-Loaded Dissolving Microneedles for Improving Facial Wrinkles in Different Areas

Wrinkles are one of the most intuitive manifestations of skin aging. Complex polypeptide-loaded dissolving microneedles (CP-DMNs) for facial wrinkles in different areas have been developed and evaluated for the first time. In optimizing formulations, we compared the differences in CP-DMNs heights on skin insertion depth and skin repair and healing. Furthermore, systemic safety experiments were carried out to provide a reference for clinical application. On this basis, an 84-day efficacy assessment based on the improvement of facial wrinkles in different areas and a comparison between CP-DMNs vs. placebo was performed on 30 healthy subjects. As a result, DMNs with a height of 300 μm presented sufficient strength to pierce the stratum corneum with minimized skin damage. In addition, CP-DMNs possessed excellent biological safety and skin compatibility for clinical application. Compared with placebo, CP-DMNs exhibited obvious improvements in wrinkles distributed in the corners of eyes, under-eyes, and nasolabial folds. Furthermore, after using CP-DMNs for 84 days, facial wrinkles in five different areas were smoothed. In short, the complex polypeptides showed apparent anti-wrinkle efficacy with the aid of DMNs technology, and CP-DMNs seemed to work better on deeper wrinkles, such as frown lines and nasolabial folds.

Palmitoyl‑RGD promotes the expression of dermal‑epidermal junction components in HaCaT cells

With age, the dermal‑epidermal junction (DEJ) becomes thinner and production of its protein components decreases; this may be associated with increased fragility and wrinkling of skin. Topical treatment with palmitoyl‑Arg‑Gly‑Asp (PAL‑RGD) improves facial wrinkles, skin elasticity and dermal density in humans. In the present study, the effect of PAL‑RGD on expression of DEJ components, such as laminin and collagen, was assessed. Human HaCaT keratinocytes were treated with PAL‑RGD. The protein expression levels of laminin‑332, collagen IV and collagen XVII were examined by western blotting. Reverse transcription-quantitative PCR was used to analyze laminin subunit (LAM)A3, LAMB3, LAMC2, collagen type IV α 1 chain (COL4A1) and COL17A1 mRNA expression levels. Western blot analysis showed that the expression levels of proteins comprising the DEJ, including laminin α3, β3 and γ2 and collagen IV and XVII demonstrated a significant dose‑dependent increase following PAL‑RGD treatment. Furthermore, PAL‑RGD treatment significantly enhanced LAMA3, LAMB3, LAMC2, COL4A1 and COL17A1 mRNA expression levels. PAL‑RGD may enhance the DEJ by inducing the expression of laminin‑332, collagen IV and collagen XVII.

A Practical Peptide Synthesis Workflow Using Amino-Li-Resin

Herein we report a practical approach for peptide synthesis using second-generation fibrous polyacrylamide resin (Li-resin, “Li” is coming from the name of its inventor, Yongfu Li). This resin with the corresponding handle was used for solid phase peptide synthesis (SPPS) using a fluorenylmethoxycarbonyl (Fmoc) approach. We reveal that the most appropriate mixing and filtration strategy when using amino-Li-resin in SPPS is via shaking and gravity filtration, instead of mechanical stirring and suction filtration used with other resins. The strategy was demonstrated with the SPPS of H-Tyr-Ile-Ile-Phe-Leu-NH₂, which contains the difficult sequence Ile-Ile. The peptide was obtained with excellent purity and yield. We are confident that this strategy will be rapidly implemented by other peptide laboratories.

In Vitro and Ex Vivo Mechanistic Understanding and Clinical Evidence of a Novel Anti-Wrinkle Technology in Single-Arm, Monocentric, Open-Label Observational Studies

Skin aging is a biological process leading to visible skin alterations. The mechanism of action, clinical efficacy and tolerance of a novel anti-wrinkle technology were evaluated in two skin care products formulated for different skin types. Two single-arm monocentric, open-label observational clinical studies, which were 56 days long, evaluated a cream-gel (n = 30) and a cream (n = 33) on the face and neck. Morphometric analyses of five types of wrinkles were performed at 0, 7, 28 and 56 days. Structural changes in extracellular matrix (ECM) including collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid (HA) were visualized and quantified by histochemical imaging after daily treatment of skin explants for 6 days. Protein and gene expression related to barrier and hydration were analyzed using ELISA and qRT-PCR, respectively, in a reconstituted human skin model treated daily for 48 h. A decrease in wrinkle dimensions was found in the majority of parameters after 28 days of treatment. Collagen, elastin, HA, procollagen type I, hyaluronan synthases, HAS2 and HAS3 were all stimulated. Based on significant and consistent changes in our investigations, we conclude that the underlying mechanism of action of the novel anti-wrinkle technology could be the remodeling of dermal ECM, and both the test formulations were efficacious and well tolerated.

Ultrasonographic Assessment of the Cutaneous Changes Induced by Topical Use of Novel Peptides Comprising Laminin 5

Background  Laminin 5, which is found in the basement membrane of dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ), is a major adhesive component and associated with proliferating and migrating keratinocytes. In this study, we hypothesized that the topical application of the skin care products containing the novel peptides might restore the DEJ structure by deriving deposition of laminin 5 and promoting the keratinocyte migration. Here, we evaluated the restoration of DEJ by measuring the skin thickness.

Methods  Single-center retrospective analysis was performed on a total of 13 patients who underwent skin care using Baume L.C.E. (France, Laboratories d' Anjou) between January and March 2021. All patients applied the skin care agent for 2 weeks only on their left hand dorsum. Before the initiation of the application and after 2 weeks, both their hands were evaluated on photography and ultrasound. And the patients were asked to rate their satisfaction with the questionnaire after 2 weeks.

Results  There was no obvious improvement in photographic assessment and questionnaire. The post–pre difference of skin thickness in ultrasound images was, in left hand, 0.1 ± 0.37 in distal point and 0.1 ± 0.35 in proximal point; and, in right hand, 0 ± 0.17 in distal point and 0 ± 0.15 in proximal point, respectively. The pre–post difference was statistically significant in proximal point ( p  = 0.035).

Conclusion  Topical application of novel peptide derivative comprising laminin 5 demonstrated cutaneous changes including skin thickness, as assessed by ultrasound. Further studies using other modalities including dermal density measurement, three-dimensional photography, optical coherence tomography, or skin biopsy would be helpful to determine the skin-improving effects.

Peptides as Active Ingredients: A Challenge for Cosmeceutical Industry

Cosmeceutical field, which merges cosmetics and pharmaceuticals, is nowadays a highly investigated research area, because a scientific demonstration of the claimed bioactivity of new cosmeceutical ingredients is increasingly requested. In fact, an aspect differentiating traditional cosmetics from cosmeceuticals is the identification and characterization of the active ingredients and demonstrating its efficacy in the claimed activity. An interesting group of bioactive cosmeceutical ingredients are peptides, which due to their particular properties, meets most of the requirements presented by the cosmeceutical industry when composing new formulas. In this context, beside bioactivity, two additional aspects have been recently considered, when dealing with peptides as cosmeceutical ingredients: bioavailability and stability. We describe herein novel methods applied in order to enhance peptides skin-penetration and stability, reviewing both scientific articles and patents, issued in the cosmeceutical arena.

Cosmeceutical Peptides in the Framework of Sustainable Wellness Economy

Among the many aspects that contribute to the wellness of each individual, healthy and younger-looking skin play a relevant role, as clearly shown by the important growth of the skin-care products market observed in recent years. In this scenario, the field of cosmeceuticals appears particularly promising, being based on cosmetic products containing active ingredients. Among these, several peptides were proposed for cosmeceutical applications, thanks to their specific interaction with biological targets. In this mini-review, we report some of the most investigated and used peptides for cosmetic formulations, taking into account that cosmeceutical peptides are basically divided into three main categories (i.e., neurotransmitter inhibitors, carriers, and signal peptides). Special attention was payed to the scientific studies supporting the claimed biological activity of these peptides, as a fundamental aspect that should underpin the growth of this field in the framework of a sustainable wellness economy.

Thymocid®, a Standardized Black Cumin (Nigella sativa) Seed Extract, Modulates Collagen Cross-Linking, Collagenase and Elastase Activities, and Melanogenesis in Murine B16F10 Melanoma Cells

Black cumin (Nigella sativa) seed extract has been shown to improve dermatological conditions, yet its beneficial effects for skin are not fully elucidated. Herein, Thymocid®, a chemically standardized black cumin seed extract, was investigated for its cosmeceutical potential including anti-aging properties associated with modulation of glycation, collagen cross-linking, and collagenase and elastase activities, as well as antimelanogenic effect in murine melanoma B16F10 cells. Thymocid® (50, 100, and 300 µg/mL) inhibited the formation of advanced glycation end-products (by 16.7-70.7%), collagen cross-linking (by 45.1-93.3%), collagenase activity (by 10.4-92.4%), and elastases activities (type I and III by 25.3-75.4% and 36.0-91.1%, respectively). In addition, Thymocid® (2.5-20 µg/mL) decreased melanin content in B16F10 cells by 42.5-61.6% and reduced cellular tyrosinase activity by 20.9% (at 20 µg/mL). Furthermore, Thymocid® (20 µg/mL for 72 h) markedly suppressed the mRNA expression levels of melanogenesis-related genes including microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), tyrosinase-related protein 1 (TYRP1), and TYRP2 to 78.9%, 0.3%, and 0.2%, respectively. Thymocid® (10 µg/mL) also suppressed the protein expression levels of MITF (by 15.2%) and TYRP1 (by 97.7%). Findings from this study support the anti-aging and antimelanogenic potential of Thymocid® as a bioactive cosmeceutical ingredient for skin care products.