Lipid Nanoparticles Loaded with Selected Iridoid Glycosides as Effective Components of Hydrogel Formulations

Evaluation of the Biological Activity of Hydrogel with Cornus mas L. Extract and Its Potential Use in Dermatology and Cosmetology

Due to the growing popularity of herbal extract-loaded hydrogels, this study assessed the biological activity of extracts and hydrogels containing three types (water (WE), water-ethanol (EE) and water-glycerin (GE)) of Cornus mas L. (dogwood) extracts. The content of biologically active compounds in the extracts was assessed using the UPLC-DAD-MS technique. Antioxidant properties were assessed by using DPPH and ABTS radicals and measuring the intracellular level of reactive oxygen species. Alamar Blue and Neutral Red tests were used to measure the cytotoxicity of the tested samples on skin cells-fibroblasts and keratinocytes. Cell migration and the anti-aging activity of the tested extracts and hydrogels were assessed. Transepidermal water loss and skin hydration after applying the hydrogels to the skin were also determined. A chromatographic analysis revealed that the extracts contained polyphenols, including gallic, caftaric, protocatechuic, chlorogenic, ellagic and p-coumaroylquinic acids, as well as iridoids, with loganic acid as the predominant component. Additionally, they contained cyanidin 3-O-galactoside, pelargonidin 3-O-glucoside and quinic acid. The obtained results show that the tested extracts and hydrogels had strong antioxidant properties and had a positive effect on the viability of skin cells in vitro. Additionally, it was shown that they stimulated the migration of these cells and had the ability to inhibit the activity of collagenase and elastase. Moreover, the tested hydrogels increased skin hydration and prevented transepidermal water loss. The obtained results indicate that the developed hydrogels may be effective delivery systems for phytochemicals contained in dogwood extracts.

Formulation of the Polysaccharide FucoPol into Novel Emulsified Creams with Improved Physicochemical Properties

Driven by the customers' growing awareness of environmental issues, the production of topical formulations based on sustainable ingredients is receiving widespread attention from researchers and the industry. Although numerous sustainable ingredients (natural, organic, or green chemistry-derived compounds) have been investigated, there is a lack of comparative studies between conventional ingredients and sustainable alternatives. In this study, olive oil (30 wt.%) and α-tocopherol (2.5 wt.%) containing oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions stabilized with the bacterial fucose-rich polysaccharide FucoPol were formulated envisaging their validation as cosmetic creams. After formula composition design by Response Surface Methodology (RSM), the optimized FucoPol-based emulsion was prepared with 1.5 wt.% FucoPol, 1.5 wt.% cetyl alcohol, and 3.0 wt.% glycerin. The resulting emulsions had an apparent viscosity of 8.72 Pa.s (measured at a shear rate 2.3 s^-1) and droplet size and zeta potential values of 6.12 µm and -97.9 mV, respectively, which are within the values reported for cosmetic emulsified formulations. The optimized formulation displayed the desired criterium of a thin emulsion system, possessing the physicochemical properties and the stability comparable to those of commercially available products used in cosmeceutical applications.

The Nanostructured lipid carrier gel of Oroxylin A reduced UV-induced skin oxidative stress damage

Oxidative stress damage caused by sun exposure damages the appearance and function of the skin, which is one of the essential inducements of skin aging and even leads to skin cancer. Oroxylin A (OA) is a flavonoid with excellent antioxidant activity and has protective effects against photoaging induced by UV irradiation. However, the strong barrier function of the skin stratum corneum prevents transdermal absorption of the drug, which limits the application of OA in dermal drug delivery. Studies have shown that nanostructured lipid carriers (NLC) can promote not only transdermal absorption of drugs but also increase drug stability and control drug release efficiency, which has broad prospects for clinical applications. In this paper, NLC loaded with OA (OA-NLC) was prepared in order to improve the skin permeability and stability of OA. In vitro studies revealed that OA-NLC had better therapeutic effects than OA solution (OA-Sol) in the cellular model of UVB radiation. OA-Sol and OA-NLC were immobilized in a hydrogel matrix to facilitate application to the dorsal skin of mice. It was found that OA-NLC-gel showed significant antioxidant and anti-apoptotic activity compared to OA-Sol-gel, which was able to protect against skin damage in mice after UV radiation. These results suggest that OA-NLC can improve the deficiencies of OA in skin delivery and show better resistance to UV-induced oxidative damage. The application of OA-NLC to skin delivery systems has good prospects and deserves further development and investigation.