Cosmetic and Dermatological Properties of Selected Ayurvedic Plant Extracts

Controlled Release of Madecassoside and Asiaticoside of Centella asiatica L. Origin from Sustainable Cold-Processed Topical Formulations

Centella asiatica L. extract is a promising natural agent for the treatment of atopic dermatitis. It significantly reduces inflammation due to its immunomodulatory properties, mainly attributed to the presence of pentacyclic triterpenes, namely madecassoside and asiaticoside. Their incorporation into sustainable cold-processed topical formulations, such as emollient-rich emulsions and cosmetic gel containing natural hydrophilic polymers, should inhibit inflammation in atopic skin. Therefore, the objective of this study is to investigate the controlled release of madecassoside and asiaticoside isolated from Centella asiatica L., loaded into topical formulations, namely emollient-rich O/W and W/O emulsions and cosmetic gel, which could support the treatment of atopic dermatitis. The carriers of active substances have been prepared with sustainable emulsifiers, active substances, and emollients obtained by green technologies from food industry wastes. Low-energy methods during the carrier emulsification process were applied to reduce carbon footprints and preserve the valuable properties of the raw materials used. The influence of the Centella asiatica L. extract on the physicochemical properties of the formulations was studied, showing a satisfactory degree of stability of the formulations obtained. Moreover, factors that may influence the mechanism and kinetics of the release of madecassoside and asiaticoside, such as the concentration of the active substance, the pH of the dissolution medium, and the type of the carrier, have been tested and widely discussed.

Ayurvedic Ingredients in Dermatology: A Call for Research

BACKGROUND

With the ever-changing cosmetic landscape, Ayurvedic skincare, rooted in the holistic medical system of Ayurveda from India, has gained popularity in Western countries due to its natural ingredients and multipurpose benefits. Originating from the earth's sources, such as plants and minerals, each ingredient like ashwagandha, turmeric, and neem among others are believed to address various cosmetic and medical issues.

AIMS AND METHODS

Despite centuries of anecdotal evidence, modern clinical trials validating these claims are limited. This paper looked to investigate current literature regarding Ayurvedic skincare and promote its continued research.

RESULTS

Existing in vitro studies have demonstrated significant potential, indicating the need for further large-scale testing. The rise of Ayurvedic ingredients is partially driven by the increasing cost of healthcare and the belief in the superiority of natural self-medication. However, healthcare providers must educate patients on the potential dangers of relying solely on natural products. Products like concentrated lemon juice or homemade sunscreens lack scientific validation and have been implicated in various cosmetic and medical issues, highlighting the need to prevent misinformation and improve education from trusted sources.

CONCLUSIONS

This paper explores the current literature that establishes promising prospects for Ayurvedic skincare, emphasizing the need for quality control and clinical trials, and highlights how Ayurvedic medicine, as it modernizes, holds the potential to become a major player in cosmetic dermatology.

New Polymeric Hydrogels with Cannabidiol and α-Terpineol as Potential Materials for Skin Regeneration-Synthesis and Physicochemical and Biological Characterization

Dermatology and cosmetology currently prioritize healthy, youthful-looking skin. As a result, research is being conducted worldwide to uncover natural substances and carriers that allow for controlled release, which could aid in the battle against a variety of skin illnesses and slow the aging process. This study examined the biological and physicochemical features of novel hydrogels containing cannabidiol (CBD) and α-terpineol (TER). The hydrogels were obtained from ε-caprolactone (CL) and poly(ethylene glycol) (PEG) copolymers, diethylene glycol (DEG), poly(tetrahydrofuran) (PTHF), 1,6-diisocyanatohexane (HDI), and chitosan (CHT) components, whereas the biodegradable oligomers were synthesized using the enzyme ring-opening polymerization (e-ROP) method. The in vitro release rate of the active compounds from the hydrogels was characterized by mainly first-order kinetics, without a "burst release". The antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, cytotoxic, antioxidant, and anti-aging qualities of the designed drug delivery systems (DDSs) were evaluated. The findings indicate that the hydrogel carriers that were developed have the ability to scavenge free radicals and impact the activity of antioxidant enzymes while avoiding any negative effects on keratinocytes and fibroblasts. Furthermore, they have anti-inflammatory qualities by impeding protein denaturation as well as the activity of proteinase and lipoxygenase. Additionally, their ability to reduce the multiplication of pathogenic bacteria and inhibit the activity of collagenase and elastase has been demonstrated. Thus, the developed hydrogel carriers may be effective systems for the controlled delivery of CBD, which may become a valuable tool for cosmetologists and dermatologists.

A systems biology-based mathematical model demonstrates the potential anti-stress effectiveness of a multi-nutrient botanical formulation

Stress is an adaptive response to the stressors that adversely affects physiological and psychological health. Stress elicits HPA axis activation, resulting in cortisol release, ultimately contributing to oxidative, inflammatory, physiological and mental stress. Nutritional supplementations with antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and stress-relieving properties are among widely preferred complementary approaches for the stress management. However, there is limited research on the potential combined impact of vitamins, minerals and natural ingredients on stress. In the present study, we have investigated the effect of a multi-nutrient botanical formulation, Nutrilite® Daily Plus, on clinical stress parameters. The stress-modulatory effects were quantified at population level using a customized sub-clinical inflammation mathematical model. The model suggested that combined intervention of botanical and micronutrients lead to significant decline in physical stress (75% decline), mental stress (70% decline), oxidative stress (55% decline) and inflammatory stress (75% decline) as evident from reduction in key stress parameters such as ROS, TNF-α, blood pressure, cortisol levels and PSS scores at both individual and population levels. Further, at the population level, the intervention relieved stress in 85% of individuals who moved towards a healthy state. The in silico studies strongly predicts the use of Gotukola based Nutrilite® Daily Plus as promising anti-stress formulation.

Decoding Cosmetic Complexities: A Comprehensive Guide to Matrix Composition and Pretreatment Technology

Despite advancements in analytical technologies, the complex nature of cosmetic matrices, coupled with the presence of diverse and trace unauthorized additives, hinders the application of these technologies in cosmetics analysis. This not only impedes effective regulation of cosmetics but also leads to the continual infiltration of illegal products into the market, posing serious health risks to consumers. The establishment of cosmetic regulations is often based on extensive scientific experiments, resulting in a certain degree of latency. Therefore, timely advancement in laboratory research is crucial to ensure the timely update and adaptability of regulations. A comprehensive understanding of the composition of cosmetic matrices and their pretreatment technologies is vital for enhancing the efficiency and accuracy of cosmetic detection. Drawing upon the China National Medical Products Administration's 2021 Cosmetic Classification Rules and Classification Catalogue, we streamline the wide array of cosmetics into four principal categories based on the following compositions: emulsified, liquid, powdered, and wax-based cosmetics. In this review, the characteristics, compositional elements, and physicochemical properties inherent to each category, as well as an extensive overview of the evolution of pretreatment methods for different categories, will be explored. Our objective is to provide a clear and comprehensive guide, equipping researchers with profound insights into the core compositions and pretreatment methods of cosmetics, which will in turn advance cosmetic analysis and improve detection and regulatory approaches in the industry.

Antibacterial and Antimycotic Activity of Epilobium angustifolium L. Extracts: A Review

The aim of this work was to provide an overview of available information on the antibacterial and antifungal properties of Epilobium angustifolium extracts. A literature search of Scopus, PubMed/Medline, and Google Scholar for peer-reviewed articles published between January 2000 and June 2023 was undertaken. A total of 23 studies were eligible for inclusion in this review. Significant variation of antimicrobial activity depending on the tested species and strains, type of extract solvent, or plant organs utilized for the extract preparation was found. E. angustifolium extracts were active against both Gram-positive and Gram-negative bacteria and showed antimycotic effects against the fungi of Microsporum canis and Trichophyton tonsurans and the dermatophytes Arthroderma spp. Greater susceptibility of Gram-positive than Gram-negative bacteria to fireweed extracts was found. A strong antibacterial effect was recorded for Staphylococcus aureus, Bacillus cereus, Micrococcus luteus, Escherichia coli, Klebsiella pneumoniae, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, and Acinetobacter baumannii including multi-drug resistant strains. E. angustifolium extract might find practical application as an antimicrobial in wound healing, components of cosmetic products for human and animals, or as food preservatives.

Flowers and Inflorescences of Selected Medicinal Plants as a Source of Triterpenoids and Phytosterols

Steroids and triterpenoids are compounds valued for their various biological and pharmacological properties; however, their content in medicinal and edible plants is often understudied. Flowers have been consumed since the ancient times as a part of traditional cuisine and as alternative medicines. Currently, the interest in medicinal and edible flowers is growing since contemporary consumers are incessantly seeking innovative natural sources of bioactive compounds. The aim of this report was the GC-MS (gas-chromatography-mass spectrometry) analysis of steroid and triterpenoid content in flowers, inflorescences and leaves of several plants (Berberis vulgaris L., Crataegus laevigata (Poir.) DC., Pulsatilla vulgaris Mill., Rosa rugosa Thunb., Sambucus nigra L. and Vinca minor L.), applied in herbal medicine in various forms, including isolated flowers (Flos), inflorescences (Inflorescentia) or aerial parts (Herba, i.e., combined flowers, leaves and stems). The most abundant source of triterpenoids was V. minor flowers (6.3 mg/g d.w.), whereas the steroids were prevailing in P. vulgaris flowers (1.8 and 1.1 mg/g). The profiles of triterpenoid acids and neutral triterpenoids in C. laevigata and S. nigra inflorescences were particularly diverse, involving compounds belonging to lupane-, oleanane- and ursane-type skeletons. The obtained results revealed that some flowers can constitute an abundant source of phytosterols and bioactive triterpenoids, valuable for utilization in functional foods, dietary supplements and cosmetic products.

Phenolic Profile and Comparison of the Antioxidant, Anti-Ageing, Anti-Inflammatory, and Protective Activities of Borago officinalis Extracts on Skin Cells

In this study, methanol and water-methanol extracts of borage (Borago officinalis) herb dried using various methods were analysed for their phenolic profile and biological activity. Twelve compounds, including flavonoids (astragalin, kaempferol 4-glucoside, rutoside, and vitexin) and phenolic acids (caffeic, chlorogenic, 3,4-dihydroxyphenylacetic, ferulic, p-hydroxybenzoic, protocatechuic, rosmarinic, and syringic), were determined qualitatively and quantitatively in B. officinalis extracts by the HPLC-DAD method. The highest total flavonoid content was confirmed for the methanol extract from the hot-air-dried herb, while the methanol extract from the air-dried herb was most abundant in phenolic acids. The results of in vitro tests on human keratinocytes (HaCaT) and fibroblasts (BJ) showed that the extracts were able to reduce the intracellular level of reactive oxygen species in skin cells. Tests performed to assess inhibition of protein denaturation, lipoxygenase activity, and proteinase activity demonstrated that borage extracts have anti-inflammatory properties. In addition, the methanol extract of the herb dried in a convection oven showed the strongest inhibition of both collagenase and elastase activity, which is indicative of anti-ageing properties. The results show that the borage extracts are a source of valuable bioactive compounds with beneficial properties in the context of skin cell protection.

Anticancer properties of bacterial cellulose membrane containing ethanolic extract of Epilobium angustifolium L

Epilobium angustifolium L. is a medicinal plant well known for its anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, antioxidant, and anticancer properties related to its high polyphenols content. In the present study, we evaluated the antiproliferative properties of ethanolic extract of E. angustifolium (EAE) against normal human fibroblasts (HDF) and selected cancer cell lines, including melanoma (A375), breast (MCF7), colon (HT-29), lung (A549) and liver (HepG2). Next, bacterial cellulose (BC) membranes were applied as a matrix for the controlled delivery of the plant extract (BC-EAE) and characterized by thermogravimetry (TG), infrared spectroscopy (FTIR), and scanning electron microscopy (SEM) images. In addition, EAE loading and kinetic release were defined. Finally, the anticancer activity of BC-EAE was evaluated against the HT-29 cell line, which presented the highest sensitivity to the tested plant extract (IC₅₀ = 61.73 ± 6.42 µM). Our study confirmed the biocompatibility of empty BC and the dose and time-dependent cytotoxicity of the released EAE. The plant extract released from BC-2.5%EAE significantly reduced cell viability to 18.16% and 6.15% of the control values and increased number apoptotic/dead cells up to 37.53% and 66.90% after 48 and 72 h of treatment, respectively. In conclusion, our study has shown that BC membranes could be used as a carrier for the delivery of higher doses of anticancer compounds released in a sustained manner in the target tissue.

New Ferulic Acid and Amino Acid Derivatives with Increased Cosmeceutical and Pharmaceutical Potential

Ferulic acid (FA) has been widely used in the pharmaceutical and cosmetics industry due to its, inter alia, antioxidant, antiaging and anti-inflammatory effects This compound added to cosmetic preparations can protect skin because of its photoprotective activity. However, the usefulness of FA as a therapeutic agent is limited due to its low solubility and bioavailability. The paper presents the synthesis, identification, and physicochemical properties of new FA derivatives with propyl esters of three amino acids, glycine (GPr[FA]), L-leucine (LPr[FA]), and L-proline (PPr[FA]). The NMR and FTIR spectroscopy, DSC, and TG analysis were used as analytical methods. Moreover, water solubility of the new conjugates was compared with the parent acid. Both ferulic acid and its conjugates were introduced into hydrogel and emulsion, and the resulting formulations were evaluated for stability. Additionally, in vitro penetration of all studied compounds from both formulations and for comparative purposes using Franz diffusion cells was evaluated from the solution in 70% (v/v) ethanol. Finally, cytotoxicity against murine fibroblasts L929 was tested. All of the analyzed compounds permeated pig skin and accumulated in it. LPr[FA] and PPr[FA] were characterized by much better permeability compared to the parent ferulic acid. Additionally, it was shown that all the analyzed derivatives are characterized by high antioxidant activity and lack of cytotoxicity. Therefore, they can be considered as an interesting alternative to be applied in dermatologic and cosmetic preparations.

Neem Oil or Almond Oil Nanoemulsions for Vitamin E Delivery: From Structural Evaluation to in vivo Assessment of Antioxidant and Anti-Inflammatory Activity

Purpose

Vitamin E (VitE) may be classified in "the first line of defense" against the formation of reactive oxygen species. Its inclusion in nanoemulsions (NEs) is a promising alternative to increase its bioavailability. The aim of this study was to compare O/W NEs including VitE based on Almond or Neem oil, showing themselves antioxidant properties. The potential synergy of the antioxidant activities of oils and vitamin E, co-formulated in NEs, was explored.

Patients and Methods

NEs have been prepared by sonication and deeply characterized evaluating size, ζ-potential, morphology (TEM and SAXS analyses), oil nanodroplet feature, and stability. Antioxidant activity has been evaluated in vitro, in non-tumorigenic HaCaT keratinocytes, and in vivo through fluorescence analysis of C. elegans transgenic strain. Moreover, on healthy human volunteers, skin tolerability and anti-inflammatory activity were evaluated by measuring the reduction of the skin erythema induced by the application of a skin chemical irritant (methyl-nicotinate).

Results

Results confirm that Vitamin E can be formulated in highly stable NEs showing good antioxidant activity on keratinocyte and on C. elegans. Interestingly, only Neem oil NEs showed some anti-inflammatory activity on healthy volunteers.

Conclusion

From the obtained results, Neem over Almond oil is a more appropriate candidate for further studies on this application.

Future perspective safe cosmetics: Focused on associated with ISO natural organic index

BACKGROUND

As we enter the era of long COVID, recent studies on the relationship between coronavirus disease-19 (COVID-19) and skin are being conducted from various angles. Awareness of the safety of healthy skin is increasing.

OBJECTIVES

Therefore, in this study, we empirically analyzed safe cosmetics, natural cosmetics, and organic cosmetics, which have recently become a critical issue.

METHODS

Keywords such as 'long COVID', 'COVID-19 Skin', 'ISO Natural Organic Index', 'edible', 'safe cosmetics', 'natural cosmetics', and 'organic cosmetics' were searched and created. This study was conducted using PubMed, Google Scholar, Riss, Scopus, and ResearchGate. Accordingly, a total of 689 papers were studied. This paper was successfully completed using a total of 41 references in this study using PRISMA flow diagram.

RESULTS

In the long COVID era, customers in the beauty and cosmetics market will have to apply ISO natural organic ingredients to the cosmetics and beauty industry, reflecting consumer demand for edible ingredients for safety issues. Therefore, it will be able to provide new strategy and implications for a safer cosmetic market that values health and beauty.

CONCLUSION

Therefore, in this literature review, interest in skin has increased due to the long corona, and it was determined that changes in the cosmetic market would be necessary by using the ISO natural organic index for the consumer's desire for healthy skin. Therefore, in this article, in the future development of eco-friendly organic cosmetics, in line with the natural and environment-friendly changes reminiscent of the efficacy or ingredients of products, it is necessary to develop cosmetics using the ISO natural organic index that meets the needs of consumers and a differentiated strategy.

Herbal Arsenal against Skin Ailments: A Review Supported by In Silico Molecular Docking Studies

Maintaining healthy skin is important for a healthy body. At present, skin diseases are numerous, representing a major health problem affecting all ages from neonates to the elderly worldwide. Many people may develop diseases that affect the skin, including cancer, herpes, and cellulitis. Long-term conventional treatment creates complicated disorders in vital organs of the body. It also imposes socioeconomic burdens on patients. Natural treatment is cheap and claimed to be safe. The use of plants is as old as mankind. Many medicinal plants and their parts are frequently used to treat these diseases, and they are also suitable raw materials for the production of new synthetic agents. A review of some plant families, viz., Fabaceae, Asteraceae, Lamiaceae, etc., used in the treatment of skin diseases is provided with their most common compounds and in silico studies that summarize the recent data that have been collected in this area.

Assessment of Bacterial Nanocellulose Loaded with Acetylsalicylic Acid or Povidone-Iodine as Bioactive Dressings for Skin and Soft Tissue Infections

Bacterial nanocellulose (BNC) is a novel nanomaterial known for its large surface area, biocompatibility, and non-toxicity. BNC contributes to regenerative processes in the skin but lacks antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties. Herein, the development of bioactive wound dressings by loading antibacterial povidone-iodine (PVI) or anti-inflammatory acetylsalicylic acid (ASA) into bacterial cellulose is presented. BNC is produced using Hestrin-Schramm culture media and loaded via immersion in PVI and ASA. Through scanning electron microscopy, BNC reveals open porosity where the bioactive compounds are loaded; the mechanical tests show that the dressing prevents mechanical wear. The loading kinetic and release assays (using the Franz cell method) under simulated fluids present a maximum loading of 589.36 mg PVI/g BNC and 38.61 mg ASA/g BNC, and both systems present a slow release profile at 24 h. Through histology, the complete diffusion of the bioactive compounds is observed across the layers of porcine skin. Finally, in the antimicrobial experiment, BNC/PVI produced an inhibition halo for Gram-positive and Gram-negative bacteria, confirming the antibacterial activity. Meanwhile, the protein denaturation test shows effective anti-inflammatory activity in BNC/ASA dressings. Accordingly, BNC is a suitable platform for the development of bioactive wound dressings, particularly those with antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties.

Assessment of the Anti-Inflammatory, Antibacterial and Anti-Aging Properties and Possible Use on the Skin of Hydrogels Containing Epilobium angustifolium L. Extracts

Epilobium angustifolium L. is an ethnomedicinal plant known as a medicinal plant in many regions of the world, among others, in various skin diseases. Despite the great interest in this plant, there are still few reports of biological activity of ready-made dermatological or cosmetical preparations containing the E. angustifolium extracts. The antioxidant, anti-ageing, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial properties and toxicity, wound healing, and skin permeation of topical hydrogels containing E. angustifolium extracts (HEas) was assessed. First, the plant extracts were prepared using three solvents: 70% (v/v) ethanol, 70% (v/v) isopropanol and water, next by preparing hydrogels witch by dry extracts (HEa-EtOH), (HEa-iPrOH) and (HEa-WA), respectively. Finally, the content of selected phenolic acids in the HEas was evaluated by high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). All the HEas were characterized by high antioxidant activity. The most increased antibacterial activity was observed for a strain of Streptococcus pneumoniae ATCC 49619, Escherichia coli, Enterococcus faecalis ATCC 29212, Enterococcus faecium, Sarcina lutea ATCC 9341 and Bacillus pseudomycoides, while the strains of Streptococcus epidermidis, Bacillus subtilis, and Staphylococcus aureus were the least sensitive. All the HEas showed a reduction in the activity of lipoxygenase enzymes, proteases, and inhibition of protein denaturation. The HEa-EtOH and HEa-iPrOH also enhanced the wound healing activity of HDF cells. Additionally, in vitro penetration studies were performed using the Franz diffusion cells. These studies showed that the active ingredients contained in E. angustifolium penetrate through human skin and accumulate in it. Furthermore, the hydrogels containing E. angustifolium extracts showed a broad spectrum of activity. Therefore, they can be considered as an interesting alternative for dermatologic and cosmetic preparations.

Epilobium angustifolium L. as a Potential Herbal Component of Topical Products for Skin Care and Treatment-A Review

Epilobium angustifolium L. (EA) has been used as a topical agent since ancient times. There has been an increasing interest in applying EA as a raw material used topically in recent years. However, in the literature, there are not many reports on the comprehensive application of this plant to skin care and treatment. EA contains many valuable secondary metabolites, which determine antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-aging, and antiproliferative activity effects. One of the most important active compounds found in EA is oenothein B (OeB), which increases the level of ROS and protects cells from oxidative damage. OeB also influences wound healing and reduces inflammation by strongly inhibiting hyaluronidase enzymes and inhibiting COX-1 and COX-2 cyclooxygenases. Other compounds that play a key role in the context of application to the skin are flavonoids, which inhibit collagenase and hyaluronidase enzymes, showing anti-aging and anti-inflammatory properties. While terpenes in EA play an important role in fighting bacterial skin infections, causing, among other things cell membrane, permeability increase as well as the modification of the lipid profiles and the alteration of the adhesion of the pathogen to the animal cells. The available scientific information on the biological potential of natural compounds can be the basis for the wider use of EA in skin care and treatment. The aim of the article is to review the existing literature on the dermocosmetic use of E. angustifolium.

Changes in the use of cosmetics worldwide due to increased use of masks in the coronavirus disease‐19 pandemic

Background

According to recent experience, people are willing to wear masks to protect themselves from environmental issues such as infections, allergies, and fine dust such as SARS in 2003, swine flu A (H1N1) in 2009, and COVID‐19 in 2019.

Objectives

The objective of this study was to investigate the changing conditions of cosmetics use worldwide due to the increase in mask usage.

Methods

This review paper is a literature review, and a narrative review approach has been used for this study. A total of 300–400 references were selected using representative journal search websites such as PubMed, Google Scholar, Scopus, and RISS, of which a total of 39 papers were selected in the final stage based on 2006–2021.

Results

Masks must be worn due to environmental issues and/or infectious diseases, for example, COVID‐19. Skin troubles were dramatically increased by the increased use of masks. Additionally, research‐related natural products for skin soothing ingredients and makeup products were suggested.

Conclusion

This review is expected to be used as an important marketing material for new changes in the cosmetics market by clearly grasping the needs of consumers in the beauty and cosmetics industry from the viewpoint of using masks after COVID‐19.

Flower Extracts as Multifunctional Dyes in the Cosmetics Industry

Flowers are a natural source of bioactive compounds that not only have antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-aging properties, but can also be used as natural dyes. For this reason, nowadays plants are widely used to produce natural cosmetics and foods. In these studies, the properties of the water extracts of Papaver rhoeas L., Punica granatum L., Clitoria ternatea L., Carthamus tinctorius L., and Gomphrena globosa L., as bioactive, natural dyes, were investigated. Plant flower extracts were tested for their antioxidant (ABTS and DPPH radical methods) and anti-inflammatory effects by determining the ability to inhibit the activity of lipoxygenase and proteinase. The extracts were tested for their cytotoxic effect on skin cells, using Alamar Blue and Neutral Red tests. The ability to inhibit the activity of enzymes responsible for the destruction of elastin and collagen was also studied. Research has shown that extracts have no toxic effect on skin cells, are a rich source of antioxidants and show the ability to inhibit the activity of elastase and collagenase enzymes. P. rhoeas extract showed the strongest antioxidant properties with IC50 value of 24.8 ± 0.42 µg/mL and 47.5 ± 1.01 µg/mL in ABTS and DPPH tests, respectively. The tested plants are also characterized by an anti-inflammatory property, for which the ability to inhibit lipoxygenase at a level above 80% and proteinase at the level of about 55% was noted. Extracts from P. rhoeas, C. ternatea, and C. tinctorius show the strongest coloring ability and can permanently dye cosmetic products, without significant color changes during the storage of the product.

Epilobium angustifolium L. Essential Oil-Biological Activity and Enhancement of the Skin Penetration of Drugs-In Vitro Study

Epilobium angustifolium L. is a popular medicinal plant found in many regions of the world. This plant contains small amounts of essential oil whose composition and properties have not been extensively investigated. There are few reports in the literature on the antioxidant and antifungal properties of this essential oil and the possibility of applying it as a potential promoter of the skin penetration of drugs. The essential oil was obtained by distillation using a Clavenger type apparatus. The chemical composition was analyzed by the GC-MS method. The major active compounds of E. angustifolium L. essential oil (EOEa) were terpenes, including α-caryophyllene oxide, eucalyptol, β-linalool, camphor, (S)-carvone, and β-caryophyllene. The analyzed essential oil was also characterized by antioxidant activity amounting to 78% RSA (Radical Scavenging Activity). Antifungal activity against the strains Aspergillus niger, A. ochraceus, A. parasiticum, and Penicillium cyclopium was also determined. The largest inhibition zone was observed for strains from the Aspergillus group. The EOEa enhanced the percutaneous penetration of ibuprofen and lidocaine. After a 24 h test, the content of terpene in the skin and the acceptor fluid was examined. It has been shown that the main compounds contained in the essential oil do not penetrate through the skin, but accumulate in it. Additionally, FTIR-ATR analysis showed a disturbance of the stratum corneum (SC) lipids caused by the essential oil application. Due to its rich composition and high biological activity, EOEa may be a potential candidate to be applied, for example, in the pharmaceutical or cosmetic industries. Moreover, due to the reaction of the essential oil components with SC lipids, the EOEa could be an effective permeation enhancer of topically applied hydrophilic and lipophilic drugs.

The inhibitory effect of Cannabis Sativa L. and Morus nigra L. against lipid peroxidation in goat liver and brain homogenates

The present study was aimed to evaluate the antioxidant potential and inhibitory effect ofCannabis sativa and Morus nigra against lipid peroxidation in goat brain and liver homogenates. The formation of free radicals, highly reactive oxygen species (ROS) and reactive nitrogen species (RNS) is a normal metabolic process for cellular signaling and countering the antigens. However, they may cause serious damage if they produced at amplified tolls. In addition, metabolic disorders also serve as sources of these reactive species. Although the issue can be addressed through supplements and other phytochemicals. In this study, two plant species were evaluated for their biological potential by employing a spectrum of antioxidant assays. The antioxidant activity was performed by lipid peroxidation assay. The water extract prepared from leaves of Cannabis sativa and Morus nigra showed significant (P<0.05) inhibition as compared to control i.e., 522.6±0.06 and 659.97±0.03 µg/mL against iron-induced lipid peroxidation in goat brain homogenate while the inhibitions were 273.54±0.04 and 309.18±0.05 µg/mL against nitroprusside induced lipid peroxidation of the brain. The iron and nitroprusside induced lipid peroxidation was also significantly inhibited by leaf extracts of Cannabis sativa and Morus nigra in liver homogenates such as 230.63±0.52 and 326.91±0.01 µg/mL (iron-induced) while 300.47±0.07 and 300.47±0.07 µg/mL (nitroprusside induced), respectively. The extracts of Cannabis sativa extract showed promising activity (96.04±0.060%) against DPPH radicals while Morus nigra showed a moderate activity (34.11±0.120%). The results suggest that different accessions ofCannabis sativa and Morus nigra are a potential source of antioxidants and have a therapeutic effect against disease induced by oxidative stress and hence can be used for novel drug discovery and development.

Bacterial Cellulose Membrane Containing Epilobium angustifolium L. Extract as a Promising Material for the Topical Delivery of Antioxidants to the Skin

Bacterial cellulose membranes (BCs) are becoming useful as a drug delivery system to the skin. However, there are very few reports on their application of plant substances to the skin. Komagataeibacter xylinus was used for the production of bacterial cellulose (BC). The BC containing 5% and 10% ethanolic extract of Epilobium angustifolium (FEE) (BC-5%FEE and BC-10%FEE, respectively) were prepared. Their mechanical, structural, and antioxidant properties, as well as phenolic acid content, were evaluated. The bioavailability of BC-FESs using mouse L929 fibroblasts as model cells was tested. Moreover, In Vitro penetration through the pigskin of the selected phenolic acids contained in FEE and their accumulation in the skin after topical application of BC-FEEs was examined. The BC-FEEs were characterized by antioxidant activity. The BC-5% FEE showed relatively low toxicity to healthy mouse fibroblasts. Gallic acid (GA), chlorogenic acid (ChA), 3,4-dihydroxybenzoic acid (3,4-DHB), 4-hydroxybenzoic acid (4-HB), 3-hydroxybenzoic acid (3-HB), and caffeic acid (CA) found in FEE were also identified in the membranes. After topical application of the membranes to the pigskin penetration of some phenolic acid and other antioxidants through the skin as well as their accumulation in the skin was observed. The bacterial cellulose membrane loaded by plant extract may be an interesting solution for topical antioxidant delivery to the skin.

Epilobium angustifolium L. Extracts as Valuable Ingredients in Cosmetic and Dermatological Products

Epilobium angustifolium L. is a popular and well-known medicinal plant. In this study, an attempt to evaluate the possibility of using this plant in preparations for the care and treatment of skin diseases was made. The antioxidant, antiaging and anti-inflammatory properties of ethanolic extracts from Epilobium angustifolium (FEE) were assessed. Qualitative and quantitative evaluation of extracts chemically composition was performed by gas chromatography with mass spectrometry (GC-MS) and high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). The total polyphenol content (TPC) of biologically active compounds, such as the total content of polyphenols (TPC), flavonoids (TFC), and assimilation pigments, as well as selected phenolic acids, was assessed. FEE was evaluated for their anti-inflammatory and antiaging properties, achieving 68% inhibition of lipoxygenase activity, 60% of collagenase and 49% of elastase. FEE also showed high antioxidant activity, reaching to 87% of free radical scavenging using 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) and 59% using 2,2'-azinobis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) (ABTS). Additionally, in vitro penetration studies were performed using two vehicles, i.e., a hydrogel and an emulsion containing FEE. These studies showed that the active ingredients contained in FEE penetrate through human skin and accumulate in it. The obtained results indicate that E. angustifolium may be an interesting plant material to be applied as a component of cosmetic and dermatological preparations with antiaging and anti-inflammatory properties.

Enhancement of the Antioxidant and Skin Permeation Properties of Betulin and Its Derivatives

This study investigated the antioxidant activity DPPH, ABTS, and Folin-Ciocalteu methods of betulin (compound 1) and its derivatives (compounds 2-11). Skin permeability and accumulation associated with compounds 1 and 8 were also examined. Identification of the obtained products (compound 2-11) and betulin isolated from plant material was based on the analysis of 1H- NMR and 13C-NMR spectra. The partition coefficient was calculated to determine the lipophilicity of all compounds. In the next stage, the penetration through pig skin and its accumulation in the skin were evaluated of ethanol vehicles containing compound 8 (at a concentration of 0.226 mmol/dm3), which was characterized by the highest antioxidant activity. For comparison, penetration studies of betulin itself were also carried out. Poor solubility and the bioavailability of pure compounds are major constraints in combination therapy. However, we observed that the ethanol vehicle was an enhancer of skin permeation for both the initial betulin and compound 8. The betulin 8 derivative showed increased permeability through biological membranes compared to the parent betulin. The paper presents the transformation of polycyclic compounds to produce novel derivatives with marked antioxidant activities and as valuable intermediates for the pharmaceutical industry. Moreover, the compounds contained in the vehicles, due to their mechanism of action, can have a beneficial effect on the balance between oxidants and antioxidants in the body, minimizing the effects of oxidative stress. The results of this work may contribute to knowledge regarding vehicles with antioxidant potential. The use of vehicles for this type of research is therefore justified.

Antioxidant and Cytoprotective Properties of Plant Extract from Dry Flowers as Functional Dyes for Cosmetic Products

Nowadays, natural dyes are expected by the cosmetic and food industries. In contrast to synthetic dyes, colorants derived from natural sources are more environmentally friendly and safer for human health. In this work, plant extracts from Gomphrena globasa L., Clitoria ternatea L., Carthamus tinctorius L., Punica granatum L. and Papaver rhoeas L. as the natural and functional dyes for the cosmetics industry were assessed. Cytotoxicity on keratinocyte and fibroblast cell lines was determined as well as antioxidant and anti-aging properties by determining their ability to inhibit the activity of collagenase and elastase enzymes. In addition, the composition of the extracts was determined. The obtained extracts were also applied in face cream formulation and color analyses were performed. It has been shown that the obtained extracts were characterized by no cytotoxicity and a high antioxidant potential. The extracts also show strong ability to inhibit the activity of collagenase and moderate ability to inhibit elastase and provide effective and long-lasting hydration after their application on the skin. Application analyses showed that the extracts of P. rhoeas L., C. ternatea L. and C. tinctorius L. can be used as effective cosmetic dyes that allow for attainment of an intense and stable color during the storage of the product. The extracts of P. granatum L. and G. globasa L., despite their beneficial effects as active ingredients, did not work effectively as cosmetic dyes, because cosmetic emulsions with these extracts did not differ significantly in color from emulsions without the extract.