Research Advances on the Damage Mechanism of Skin Glycation and Related Inhibitors

Natural autophagy activators: A promising strategy for combating photoaging

BACKGROUND

Photodamage to the skin stands out as one of the most widespread epidermal challenges globally. Prolonged exposure to sunlight containing ultraviolet radiation (UVR) instigates stress, thereby compromising the skin's functionality and culminating in photoaging. Recent investigations have shed light on the importance of autophagy in shielding the skin from photodamage. Despite the acknowledgment of numerous phytochemicals possessing photoprotective attributes, their potential to induce autophagy remains relatively unexplored.

PURPOSE

Diminished autophagy activity in photoaged skin underscores the potential benefits of restoring autophagy through natural compounds to enhance photoprotection. Consequently, this study aims to highlight the role of natural compounds in safeguarding against photodamage and to assess their potential to induce autophagy via an in-silico approach.

METHODS

A thorough search of the literature was done using several databases, including PUBMED, Science Direct, and Google Scholar, to gather relevant studies. Several keywords such as Phytochemical, Photoprotection, mTOR, Ultraviolet Radiation, Reactive oxygen species, Photoaging, and Autophagy were utilized to ensure thorough exploration. To assess the autophagy potential of phytochemicals through virtual screening, computational methodologies such as molecular docking were employed, utilizing tools like AutoDock Vina. Receptor preparation for docking was facilitated using MGLTools.

RESULTS

The initiation of structural and functional deterioration in the skin due to ultraviolet radiation (UVR) or sunlight-induced reactive oxygen species/reactive nitrogen species (ROS/RNS) involves the modulation of various pathways. Natural compounds like phenolics, flavonoids, flavones, and anthocyanins, among others, possess chromophores capable of absorbing light, thereby offering photoprotection by modulating these pathways. In our molecular docking study, these phytochemicals have shown binding affinity with mTOR, a negative regulator of autophagy, indicating their potential as autophagy modulators.

CONCLUSION

This integrated review underscores the photoprotective characteristics of natural compounds, while the in-silico analysis reveals their potential to modulate autophagy, which could significantly contribute to their anti-photoaging properties. The findings of this study hold promise for the advancement of cosmeceuticals and therapeutics containing natural compounds aimed at addressing photoaging and various skin-related diseases. By leveraging their dual benefits of photoprotection and autophagy modulation, these natural compounds offer a multifaceted approach to combatting skin aging and related conditions.

Characteristics of and foundation application among Chinese females with sensitive skin

OBJECTIVE

We conducted a study on women with sensitive skin of various skin tones to analyse their skin characteristics and preferences for foundation shades.

METHODS

Volunteers were categorized based on their individual typological angle, and their preferences were assessed using self-perception and software-based mass aesthetic assessment. The Baumann Questionnaire is a valuable tool for identifying patients with sensitive skin and gaining a comprehensive understanding of their skin sensitivity. The skin characteristics of two groups were compared using a more suitable classification method.

RESULTS

Individuals diagnosed with sensitive skin typically have skin tones classified as Types I, II and III, with Type I being the most common in sensitive skin cases. The sensitive group exhibited higher levels of transepidermal water loss, lighter skin tone, lower yellowness, increased glossiness, higher haemoglobin content, more acne, fewer blackheads, and fewer pores. Among them, Type I skin is characterized by lower elasticity, increased oiliness, higher hydration levels and fewer visible pores. Type II skin is characterized by lower hydration levels, higher oiliness and increased redness. Type III exhibits more pores, decreased oiliness and enhanced elasticity. Foundations No. 2 and No. 3 are fairer than foundations No. 1 and No. 4. In the self-assessment, Type I and Type II subjects preferred No. 3, while Type III subjects preferred No. 1 and No. 4 because they matched their skin tone. The results of the software evaluation showed that popular aesthetics preferred Type I and Type II to use No. 2, and Type III to use No. 2 and No. 3, as they resulted in a fairer complexion.

CONCLUSION

Sensitive skin of different skin tone types confronts different skin problems. The findings also highlight the public's inclination towards lighter foundation shades, despite the common practice of selecting shades that harmonize with one's inherent skin tone.

Mitigating diabetes associated with reactive oxygen species (ROS) and protein aggregation through pharmacological interventions

Diabetes mellitus, a complex metabolic disorder, presents a growing global health challenge. In 2021, there were 529 million diabetics worldwide. At the super-regional level, Oceania, the Middle East, and North Africa had the highest age-standardized rates. The majority of cases of diabetes in 2021 (>90.0%) were type 2 diabetes, which is largely indicative of the prevalence of diabetes in general, particularly in older adults (K. L. Ong, et al., Global, regional, and national burden of diabetes from 1990 to 2021, with projections of prevalence to 2050: a systematic analysis for the Global Burden of Disease Study 2021, Lancet, 2023, 402(10397), 203-234). Nowadays, slowing the progression of diabetic complications is the only effective way to manage diabetes with the available therapeutic options. However, novel biomarkers and treatments are urgently needed to control cytokine secretion, advanced glycation end products (AGEs) production, vascular inflammatory effects, and cellular death. Emerging research has highlighted the intricate interplay between reactive oxygen species (ROS) and protein aggregation in the pathogenesis of diabetes. In this scenario, the main aim of this paper is to provide a comprehensive review of the current understanding of the molecular mechanisms underlying ROS-induced cellular damage and protein aggregation, specifically focusing on their contribution to diabetes development. The role of ROS as key mediators of oxidative stress in diabetes is discussed, emphasizing their impact on cellular components and signaling. Additionally, the involvement of protein aggregation in impairing cellular function and insulin signaling is explored. The synergistic effects of ROS and protein aggregation in promoting β-cell dysfunction and insulin resistance are examined, shedding light on potential targets for therapeutic intervention.

Identification of Yellow Advanced Glycation End Products in Human Skin

Skin yellowness is a hallmark of dull or unhealthy skin, particularly among Asians. Previous research has indicated a link between skin glycation and skin yellowness. However, the specific glycated chemicals contributing to yellowish skin appearance have not been identified yet. Using HPLC-PDA-HRMS coupled with native and artificially glycated human epidermal explant skin, we identified intensely yellow colored glycated chromophores "(1R, 8aR) and (1S, 8aR)-4-(2-furyl)-7-[(2-furyl)-methylidene]-2-hydroxy-2H,7H,8AH-pyrano-[2,3-B]-pyran-3-one" (abbreviated as AGEY) from human skin samples for the first time. The abundance of AGEY was strongly correlated with skin yellowness in the multiple skin explant tissues. We further confirmed the presence of AGEY in cultured human keratinocytes and 3D reconstructed human epidermal (RHE) models. Additionally, we demonstrated that a combination of four cosmetic compounds with anti-glycation properties can inhibit the formation of AGEY and reduce yellowness in the RHE models. In conclusion, we have identified specific advanced glycation end products with an intense yellow color, namely AGEY, in human skin tissues for the first time. The series of study results highlighted the significant contribution of AGEY to the yellow appearance of the skin. Furthermore, we have identified a potential cosmetic solution to mitigate AGEY formation, leading to a reduction in yellowness in the in vitro RHE models.

N-acetyl-L-hydroxyproline - A potent skin anti-ageing active preventing advanced glycation end-product formation in vitro and ex vivo

OBJECTIVE

Advanced glycation end-products (AGEs) represent a large group of compounds generated by a non-enzymatic reaction between reducing sugars and amino groups. The formation and accumulation of AGEs in the skin lead to protein crosslinking, dermal stiffening and yellowing, which ultimately contribute to cutaneous ageing. Amino acids have been described to exhibit anti-glycation effects. The objective of this study was to understand the inhibitory role of the amino acid derivative N-acetyl-L-hydroxyproline (NAHP) as an anti-glycation active for human skin.

METHODS

A cell-free assay investigating the inhibition of glycation of serum albumin by NAHP was used to determine the capability of NAHP to decrease AGE formation. Also, by assessing the amount of the AGE N-(carboxymethyl)lysine (CML) the anti-glycation abilities of NAHP were investigated utilizing dot blot analysis. The improvement of cell-matrix interaction by NAHP was determined in vitro using a glycated fibroblast-populated collagen lattice (FPCL) dermis model. In skin biopsies, AGE autofluorescence was determined after treatment with NAHP and/or glucose ex vivo.

RESULTS

NAHP significantly and dose-dependently inhibited levels of AGEs, which were induced by the glycation of a protein solution. This decrease could be visualized by showing that the brownish appearance as well as the AGE-specific fluorescence of glucose-treated samples were reduced after the application of increasing amounts of NAHP. Also, CML formation was dose-dependently inhibited by NAHP. In FPCLs, the contractile capacity of fibroblasts was significantly disturbed after glycation. This could be prevented by the addition of NAHP. Compared to glyoxal-treated samples, the co-application of NAHP significantly decreased the diameter as well as the weight of glycated FPCLs. Ex vivo application of glucose to skin explants showed a higher AGE fluorescence signal compared to control explants. Co-treatment with NAHP and glucose decreased the level of AGE fluorescence in comparison to glucose-treated explants.

CONCLUSION

These data provide clear evidence that under glycation stress conditions treatment with NAHP inhibited AGE formation in vitro and ex vivo and prevented the loss of cellular contractile forces in a glycated dermis model. Thus, NAHP obviously provides a beneficial treatment option to counteract AGE-related changes in human skin such as dermal stiffening and yellowish skin appearance.

The effects of advanced glycation end-products on skin and potential anti-glycation strategies

The advanced glycation end-products (AGEs) are produced through non-enzymatic glycation between reducing sugars and free amino groups, such as proteins, lipids or nucleic acids. AGEs can enter the body through daily dietary intake and can also be generated internally via normal metabolism and external stimuli. AGEs bind to cell surface receptors for AGEs, triggering oxidative stress and inflammation responses that lead to skin ageing and various diseases. Evidence shows that AGEs contribute to skin dysfunction and ageing. This review introduces the basic information, the sources, the metabolism and absorption of AGEs. We also summarise the detrimental mechanisms of AGEs to skin ageing and other chronic diseases. For the potential strategies for counteracting AGEs to skin and other organs, we summarised the pathways that could be utilised to resist glycation. Chemical and natural-derived anti-glycation approaches are overviewed. This work offers an understanding of AGEs to skin ageing and other chronic diseases and may provide perspectives for the development of anti-glycation strategies.

Mechanistic Insights into the Multiple Functions of Niacinamide: Therapeutic Implications and Cosmeceutical Applications in Functional Skincare Products

Niacinamide (or nicotinamide) is a small-molecule hydrosoluble vitamin with essential metabolic functions in mammalian cells. Niacinamide has become a key functional ingredient in diverse skincare products and cosmetics. This vitamin plays a pivotal role in NAD+ synthesis, notably contributing to redox reactions and energy production in cutaneous cells. Via diversified biochemical mechanisms, niacinamide is also known to influence human DNA repair and cellular stress responses. Based on decades of safe use in cosmetics, niacinamide recently gained widespread popularity as an active ingredient which aligns with the "Kligman standards" in skincare. From a therapeutic standpoint, the intrinsic properties of niacinamide may be applied to managing acne vulgaris, melasma, and psoriasis. From a cosmeceutical standpoint, niacinamide has been widely leveraged as a multipurpose antiaging ingredient. Therein, it was shown to significantly reduce cutaneous oxidative stress, inflammation, and pigmentation. Overall, through multimodal mechanisms, niacinamide may be considered to partially prevent and/or reverse several biophysical changes associated with skin aging. The present narrative review provides multifactorial insights into the mechanisms of niacinamide's therapeutic and cosmeceutical functions. The ingredient's evolving role in skincare was critically appraised, with a strong focus on the biochemical mechanisms at play. Finally, novel indications and potential applications of niacinamide in dermal fillers and alternative injectable formulations were prospectively explored.

Glycosylation Modulates the Structure and Functions of Collagen: A Review

Collagens are fundamental constituents of the extracellular matrix and are the most abundant proteins in mammals. Collagens belong to the family of fibrous or fiber-forming proteins that self-assemble into fibrils that define their mechanical properties and biological functions. Up to now, 28 members of the collagen superfamily have been recognized. Collagen biosynthesis occurs in the endoplasmic reticulum, where specific post-translational modification-glycosylation-is also carried out. The glycosylation of collagens is very specific and adds β-d-galactopyranose and β-d-Glcp-(1→2)-d-Galp disaccharide through β-O-linkage to hydroxylysine. Several glycosyltransferases, namely COLGALT1, COLGALT2, LH3, and PGGHG glucosidase, were associated the with glycosylation of collagens, and recently, the crystal structure of LH3 has been solved. Although not fully understood, it is clear that the glycosylation of collagens influences collagen secretion and the alignment of collagen fibrils. A growing body of evidence also associates the glycosylation of collagen with its functions and various human diseases. Recent progress in understanding collagen glycosylation allows for the exploitation of its therapeutic potential and the discovery of new agents. This review will discuss the relevant contributions to understanding the glycosylation of collagens. Then, glycosyltransferases involved in collagen glycosylation, their structure, and catalytic mechanism will be surveyed. Furthermore, the involvement of glycosylation in collagen functions and collagen glycosylation-related diseases will be discussed.

Cuban Policosanol (Raydel®) Exerts Higher Antioxidant and Anti-Glycation Activities than Chinese Policosanol (BOC Sciences) in Reconstituted High-Density Lipoproteins: In Vivo Anti-Inflammatory Activities in Zebrafish and Its Embryos

The present study compares sugarcane-wax purified policosanols sourced from Cuba (Raydel®) and China (BOC Sciences) and utilized following the synthesis of reconstituted high-density lipoproteins (rHDL). The two policosanols exhibited distinctly different ingredient ratios of long-chain aliphatic alcohols, particularly 1-octacosanol (C28) and 1-tetratriacotanol (C34). After synthesizing rHDL with apolipoprotein A-I (apoA-I), the two policosanols bound well with phospholipid and apoA-I to form the discoidal rHDL. Notably, rHDL-1, containing Cuban policosanol, displayed the largest particle diameter at approximately 78 ± 3 nm. In contrast, both control rHDL (rHDL-0) and rHDL containing Chinese policosanol (rHDL-2) exhibited smaller particles, with diameters of approximately 58 ± 3 nm and 61 ± 2 nm, respectively. Furthermore, rHDL-1 demonstrated enhanced anti-glycation activity, safeguarding apoA-I from degradation within HDL, and displayed the antioxidant ability to inhibit LDL oxidation. A microinjection of each rHDL into zebrafish embryos in the presence of carboxymethyllysine (CML) revealed rHDL-1 to have the strongest antioxidant activity with the highest embryo survivability and normal developmental morphology. Dermal application to recover the wound revealed rHDL-1 to have the highest wound-healing activity (75%) and survivability (92%) in the cutaneous wound area in the presence of CML. In adult zebrafish, injecting CML (250 μg) caused acute death and hyperinflammation, marked by heightened neutrophil infiltration and interleukin (IL)-6 production in liver. However, co-administering rHDL-1 notably increased survival (85%) and exhibited strong anti-inflammatory properties, reducing IL-6 production while improving the blood lipid profile. However, a co-injection of rHDL-2 resulted in the lowest survivability (47%) with more hepatic inflammation. In conclusion, Cuban policosanol (Raydel®) has more desirable properties for the in vitro synthesis of rHDL with stronger anti-glycation and antioxidant activities than those of Chinese policosanol (BOC Sciences). Moreover, Raydel-policosanol-integrated rHDL demonstrates a noteworthy effect on accelerated wound healing and robust anti-inflammatory properties, leading to increased survivability in zebrafish embryos and adults by effectively suppressing CML-induced hyperinflammation.

Clinically Actionable Topical Strategies for Addressing the Hallmarks of Skin Aging: A Primer for Aesthetic Medicine Practitioners

In this narrative review, we sought to provide a comprehensive overview of the mechanisms underlying cutaneous senescence, framed by the twelve traditional hallmarks of aging. These include genomic instability, telomere attrition, epigenetic alterations, loss of proteostasis, impaired macroautophagy, deregulated nutrient sensing, mitochondrial dysfunction, cellular senescence, stem cell exhaustion, altered intercellular communication, chronic inflammation, and dysbiosis. We also examined how topical interventions targeting these hallmarks can be integrated with conventional aesthetic medicine techniques to enhance skin rejuvenation. The potential of combining targeted topical therapies against the aging hallmarks with minimally invasive procedures represents a significant advancement in aesthetic medicine, offering personalized and effective strategies to combat skin aging. The reviewed evidence paves the way for future advancements and underscores the transformative potential of integrating scientifically validated interventions targeted against aging hallmarks into traditional aesthetic practices.

Cannflavins A and B with Anti-Ferroptosis, Anti-Glycation, and Antioxidant Activities Protect Human Keratinocytes in a Cell Death Model with Erastin and Reactive Carbonyl Species

Precursors of advanced glycation endproducts, namely, reactive carbonyl species (RCSs), are aging biomarkers that contribute to cell death. However, the impact of RCSs on ferroptosis-an iron-dependent form of cell death-in skin cells remains unknown. Herein, we constructed a cellular model (with human keratinocyte; HaCaT cells) to evaluate the cytotoxicity of the combinations of RCSs (including glyoxal; GO and methyglyoxal; MGO) and erastin (a ferroptosis inducer) using bioassays (measuring cellular lipid peroxidation and iron content) and proteomics with sequential window acquisition of all theoretical mass spectra. Additionally, a data-independent acquisition approach was used to characterize RCSs' and erastin's molecular network including genes, canonical pathways, and upstream regulators. Using this model, we evaluated the cytoprotective effects of two dietary flavonoids including cannflavins A and B against RCSs and erastin-induced cytotoxicity in HaCaT cells. Cannflavins A and B (at 0.625 to 20 µM) inhibited ferroptosis by restoring the cell viability (by 56.6-78.6% and 63.8-81.1%) and suppressing cellular lipid peroxidation (by 42.3-70.2% and 28.8-63.6%), respectively. They also alleviated GO + erastin- or MGO + erastin-induced cytotoxicity by 62.2-67.6% and 56.1-69.3%, and 35.6-54.5% and 33.8-62.0%, respectively. Mechanistic studies supported that the cytoprotective effects of cannflavins A and B are associated with their antioxidant activities including free radical scavenging capacity and an inhibitory effect on glycation. This is the first study showing that cannflavins A and B protect human keratinocytes from RCSs + erastin-induced cytotoxicity, which supports their potential applications as dietary interventions for aging-related skin conditions.

Skin Cancer Microenvironment: What We Can Learn from Skin Aging?

Aging is a natural intrinsic process associated with the loss of fibrous tissue, a slower cell turnover, and a reduction in immune system competence. In the skin, the continuous exposition of environmental factors superimposes extrinsic damage, mainly due to ultraviolet radiation causing photoaging. Although not usually considered a pathogenic event, photoaging affects cutaneous biology, increasing the risk of skin carcinogenesis. At the cellular level, aging is typified by the rise of senescence cells a condition characterized by reduced or absent capacity to proliferate and aberrant hyper-secretory activity. Senescence has a double-edged sword in cancer biology given that senescence prevents the uncontrolled proliferation of damaged cells and favors their clearance by paracrine secretion. Nevertheless, the cumulative insults and the poor clearance of injured cells in the elderly increase cancer incidence. However, there are not conclusive data proving that aged skin represents a permissive milieu for tumor onset. On the other hand, tumor cells are capable of activating resident fibroblasts onto a pro-tumorigenic phenotype resembling those of senescent fibroblasts suggesting that aged fibroblasts might facilitate cancer progression. This review discusses changes that occur during aging that can prime neoplasm or increase the aggressiveness of melanoma and non-melanoma skin cancer.

Research Progress on Skin Aging and Active Ingredients

With the advancement of living standards in modern society and the emergence of an aging population, an increasing number of people are becoming interested in the topic of aging and anti-aging. An important feature of aging is skin aging, and women are particularly concerned about skin aging. In the field of cosmetics, the market share of anti-aging products is increasing year by year. This article reviews the research and development progress of skin aging and related active compounds both domestically and internationally in recent years. The results show that, in terms of the research on skin aging, the popular theories mainly include free radicals and oxidative stress theory, inflammation theory, photoaging theory, and nonenzymatic glycosyl chemistry theory. In terms of research on the active ingredients with anti-aging activities in the skin, there are numerous reports on related products in clinical studies on human subjects, animal experiments, and experimental studies on cell cultures, with a variety of types. Most of the compounds against skin aging are sourced from natural products and their action mechanisms are mainly related to scavenging oxygen free radicals and enhancing antioxidant defenses. This review provides important references for the future research of skin aging and the development of related products. Although there is a great progress in skin aging including related active ingredients, ideal compounds or products are still lacking and need to be further validated. New mechanisms of skin aging, new active ingredients sourced from natural and artificial products, and new pharmaceutical forms including further clinical validations should be further investigated in the future.

Endogenous Biological Drivers in Diabetic Lower Limb Wounds Recurrence: Hypothetical Reflections

An impaired healing response underlies diabetic foot wound chronicity, frequently translating to amputation, disability, and mortality. Diabetics suffer from underappreciated episodes of post-epithelization ulcer recurrence. Recurrence epidemiological data are alarmingly high, so the ulcer is considered in "remission" and not healed from the time it remains epithelialized. Recurrence may result from the combined effects of behavioral and endogenous biological factors. Although the damaging role of behavioral, clinical predisposing factors is undebatable, it still remains elusive in the identification of endogenous biological culprits that may prime the residual scar tissue for recurrence. Furthermore, the event of ulcer recurrence still waits for the identification of a molecular predictor. We propose that ulcer recurrence is deeply impinged by chronic hyperglycemia and its downstream biological effectors, which originate epigenetic drivers that enforce abnormal pathologic phenotypes to dermal fibroblasts and keratinocytes as memory cells. Hyperglycemia-derived cytotoxic reactants accumulate and modify dermal proteins, reduce scar tissue mechanical tolerance, and disrupt fibroblast-secretory activity. Accordingly, the combination of epigenetic and local and systemic cytotoxic signalers induce the onset of "at-risk phenotypes" such as premature skin cell aging, dysmetabolism, inflammatory, pro-degradative, and oxidative programs that may ultimately converge to scar cell demise. Post-epithelialization recurrence rate data are missing in clinical studies of reputed ulcer healing therapies during follow-up periods. Intra-ulcer infiltration of epidermal growth factor exhibits the most consistent remission data with the lowest recurrences during 12-month follow-up. Recurrence data should be regarded as a valuable clinical endpoint during the investigational period for each emergent healing candidate.

Enzymatic Deglycation of Damaged Skin by Means of Combined Treatment of Fructosamine-3-Kinase and Fructosyl-Amino Acid Oxidase

The consensus in aging is that inflammation, cellular senescence, free radicals, and epigenetics are contributing factors. Skin glycation through advanced glycation end products (AGEs) has a crucial role in aging. Additionally, it has been suggested that their presence in scars leads to elasticity loss. This manuscript reports fructosamine-3-kinase (FN3K) and fructosyl-amino acid oxidase (FAOD) in counteracting skin glycation by AGEs. Skin specimens were obtained (n = 19) and incubated with glycolaldehyde (GA) for AGE induction. FN3K and FAOD were used as monotherapy or combination therapy. Negative and positive controls were treated with phosphate-buffered saline and aminoguanidine, respectively. Autofluorescence (AF) was used to measure deglycation. An excised hypertrophic scar tissue (HTS) (n = 1) was treated. Changes in chemical bonds and elasticity were evaluated using mid-infrared spectroscopy (MIR) and skin elongation, respectively. Specimens treated with FN3K and FAOD in monotherapy achieved an average decrease of 31% and 33% in AF values, respectively. When treatments were combined, a decrease of 43% was achieved. The positive control decreased by 28%, whilst the negative control showed no difference. Elongation testing of HTS showed a significant elasticity improvement after FN3K treatment. ATR-IR spectra demonstrated differences in chemical bounds pre- versus post-treatment. FN3K and FAOD can achieve deglycation and the effects are most optimal when combined in one treatment.