N-acetyl-L-hydroxyproline - A potent skin anti-ageing active preventing advanced glycation end-product formation in vitro and ex vivo

OBJECTIVE

Advanced glycation end-products (AGEs) represent a large group of compounds generated by a non-enzymatic reaction between reducing sugars and amino groups. The formation and accumulation of AGEs in the skin lead to protein crosslinking, dermal stiffening and yellowing, which ultimately contribute to cutaneous ageing. Amino acids have been described to exhibit anti-glycation effects. The objective of this study was to understand the inhibitory role of the amino acid derivative N-acetyl-L-hydroxyproline (NAHP) as an anti-glycation active for human skin.

METHODS

A cell-free assay investigating the inhibition of glycation of serum albumin by NAHP was used to determine the capability of NAHP to decrease AGE formation. Also, by assessing the amount of the AGE N-(carboxymethyl)lysine (CML) the anti-glycation abilities of NAHP were investigated utilizing dot blot analysis. The improvement of cell-matrix interaction by NAHP was determined in vitro using a glycated fibroblast-populated collagen lattice (FPCL) dermis model. In skin biopsies, AGE autofluorescence was determined after treatment with NAHP and/or glucose ex vivo.

RESULTS

NAHP significantly and dose-dependently inhibited levels of AGEs, which were induced by the glycation of a protein solution. This decrease could be visualized by showing that the brownish appearance as well as the AGE-specific fluorescence of glucose-treated samples were reduced after the application of increasing amounts of NAHP. Also, CML formation was dose-dependently inhibited by NAHP. In FPCLs, the contractile capacity of fibroblasts was significantly disturbed after glycation. This could be prevented by the addition of NAHP. Compared to glyoxal-treated samples, the co-application of NAHP significantly decreased the diameter as well as the weight of glycated FPCLs. Ex vivo application of glucose to skin explants showed a higher AGE fluorescence signal compared to control explants. Co-treatment with NAHP and glucose decreased the level of AGE fluorescence in comparison to glucose-treated explants.

CONCLUSION

These data provide clear evidence that under glycation stress conditions treatment with NAHP inhibited AGE formation in vitro and ex vivo and prevented the loss of cellular contractile forces in a glycated dermis model. Thus, NAHP obviously provides a beneficial treatment option to counteract AGE-related changes in human skin such as dermal stiffening and yellowish skin appearance.

Redefine photoprotection: Sun protection beyond sunburn

Excessive exposure to ultraviolet (UV) light leads to acute and chronic UV damage and is the main risk factor for the development of skin cancer. In most countries with western lifestyle, the topical application of sunscreens on UV-exposed skin areas is by far the most frequently used preventive measure against sunburn. Further than preventing sunburns, increasing numbers of consumers are appreciating sunscreens with a medium- to high-level sun protective factor (SPF) as basis for sustainable-skin ageing or skin cancer prevention programs. However, recent investigations indicate that clinically significant DNA damages as well as a lasting impairment of cutaneous immunosurveillance already occur far below the standard of one minimal erythema dose (MED) sunburn level, which contributes to the current discussion of the clinical value of high-protective SPF values. Ex vivo investigations on human skin showed that the application of SPF30 reduces DNA damage for a day long sun exposure (24 MED) drastically by about 53% but is significantly surpassed by SPF100 reducing DNA damage by approx. 73%. Further analysis on different SPF protection levels in UV-exposed cell culture assays focusing on IL-18, cell vitality and cis/trans-urocanic acid support these findings. Whereas SPF30 and SPF50+ sunscreens already offer a solid UVB cover for most indications, our results indicate that SPF100 provides significant additional protection against mutagenic (non-apoptotic-) DNA damage and functional impairment of the cutaneous immunosurveillance and therefore qualifies as an optimized sunscreen for specifically vulnerable patient groups such as immunosuppressed patients, or skin cancer patients.