N-acetyl-L-hydroxyproline - A potent skin anti-ageing active preventing advanced glycation end-product formation in vitro and ex vivo

OBJECTIVE

Advanced glycation end-products (AGEs) represent a large group of compounds generated by a non-enzymatic reaction between reducing sugars and amino groups. The formation and accumulation of AGEs in the skin lead to protein crosslinking, dermal stiffening and yellowing, which ultimately contribute to cutaneous ageing. Amino acids have been described to exhibit anti-glycation effects. The objective of this study was to understand the inhibitory role of the amino acid derivative N-acetyl-L-hydroxyproline (NAHP) as an anti-glycation active for human skin.

METHODS

A cell-free assay investigating the inhibition of glycation of serum albumin by NAHP was used to determine the capability of NAHP to decrease AGE formation. Also, by assessing the amount of the AGE N-(carboxymethyl)lysine (CML) the anti-glycation abilities of NAHP were investigated utilizing dot blot analysis. The improvement of cell-matrix interaction by NAHP was determined in vitro using a glycated fibroblast-populated collagen lattice (FPCL) dermis model. In skin biopsies, AGE autofluorescence was determined after treatment with NAHP and/or glucose ex vivo.

RESULTS

NAHP significantly and dose-dependently inhibited levels of AGEs, which were induced by the glycation of a protein solution. This decrease could be visualized by showing that the brownish appearance as well as the AGE-specific fluorescence of glucose-treated samples were reduced after the application of increasing amounts of NAHP. Also, CML formation was dose-dependently inhibited by NAHP. In FPCLs, the contractile capacity of fibroblasts was significantly disturbed after glycation. This could be prevented by the addition of NAHP. Compared to glyoxal-treated samples, the co-application of NAHP significantly decreased the diameter as well as the weight of glycated FPCLs. Ex vivo application of glucose to skin explants showed a higher AGE fluorescence signal compared to control explants. Co-treatment with NAHP and glucose decreased the level of AGE fluorescence in comparison to glucose-treated explants.

CONCLUSION

These data provide clear evidence that under glycation stress conditions treatment with NAHP inhibited AGE formation in vitro and ex vivo and prevented the loss of cellular contractile forces in a glycated dermis model. Thus, NAHP obviously provides a beneficial treatment option to counteract AGE-related changes in human skin such as dermal stiffening and yellowish skin appearance.

Topical treatment with coenzyme Q10-containing formulas improves skin's Q10 level and provides antioxidative effects

Ubiquinone (coenzyme Q10, Q10) represents an endogenously synthesized lipid-soluble antioxidant which is crucial for cellular energy production but is diminished with age and under the influence of external stress factors in human skin. Here, it is shown that topical Q10 treatment is beneficial with regard to effective Q10 replenishment, augmentation of cellular energy metabolism, and antioxidant effects. Application of Q10-containing formulas significantly increased the levels of this quinone on the skin surface. In the deeper layers of the epidermis the ubiquinone level was significantly augmented indicating effective supplementation. Concurrent elevation of ubiquinol levels suggested metabolic transformation of ubiquinone resulting from increased energy metabolism. Incubation of cultured human keratinocytes with Q10 concentrations equivalent to treated skin showed a significant augmentation of energy metabolism. Moreover, the results demonstrated that stressed skin benefits from the topical Q10 treatment by reduction of free radicals and an increase in antioxidant capacity.

Damage at the root of cell renewal--UV sensitivity of human epidermal stem cells

BACKGROUND

The epidermis harbors adult stem cells that reside in the basal layer and ensure the continuous maintenance of tissue homeostasis. Various studies imply that stem cells generally possess specific defense mechanisms against several forms of exogenous stress factors. As sun exposition is the most prevalent impact on human skin, this feature would be of particular importance in terms of sensitivity to UV-induced DNA damage.

OBJECTIVE

To investigate whether human epidermal stem cells are susceptible to UV-induced DNA damage and subsequent functional impairment.

METHODS

A method to isolate human epidermal stem cells from suction blister epidermis was established and validated. Volunteers were treated with solar-simulated irradiation on test areas of the forearm and stem cells were isolated from suction blister material of this region. DNA damage was analyzed by staining for cyclobutane thymidine dimers. The functional consequences of UV-induced damages were assessed by colony forming efficiency assays and gene expression analyses.

RESULTS

Compared to an unirradiated control, stem cells isolated from areas that were exposed to solar-simulated radiation showed significantly more DNA lesions. Although the number of stem cells was not reduced by this treatment, a functional impairment of stem cells could be shown by reduced colony forming efficiency and altered gene expression of stem cell markers.

CONCLUSIONS

Despite their essential role in skin maintenance, epidermal stem cells are sensitive to physiological doses of UV irradiation in vivo.