In Vitro Evaluation of Sunscreen Safety: Effects of the Vehicle and Repeated Applications on Skin Permeation from Topical Formulations

In vivo permeation of 2-phenoxyethanol in human skin

A number of baby wipe formulations contain 2-phenoxyethanol (PE) as a preservative and cetylpyridinium chloride (CPC) as a surfactant with antimicrobial activity. Previously, we reported the skin absorption of PE in porcine skin and human skin in vitro. In the present work, the permeation of PE from preparations with CPC and without CPC was investigated in human skin in vivo. The studies were conducted using Confocal Raman Spectroscopy (CRS) and tape stripping (TS) methods. The CRS studies showed that the area under the curve (AUC) of PE for the formulation with and without CPC were not significantly different (p > 0.05). The TS data indicated no significant difference in the amounts of PE recovered from tapes 1-6 for the preparation with and without CPC (p > 0.05). When comparing the in vitro and in vivo data, a correlation was observed between the cumulative amount of PE permeated through human skin in vitro at 24 h and the AUC as measured by CRS (r2 = 0.97). In addition, the cumulative amount of PE permeated through human skin in vitro at 24 h was found to correlate with the amount of PE recovered from tape 1 to 6 in vivo (r2 = 0.95). Both CRS and TS techniques demonstrated limitations in assessing the distribution of PE and CPC in the skin in vivo, primarily attributed to the Raman signal intensities of compounds under investigation and the variability in the amount of SC collected by TS. Despite the limitations of CRS and TS, the results from the present study add further insights to the in vitro permeation data. Additionally, the findings of the present study encourage the further development and application of CRS for non-invasive evaluation of topical skin formulations in vivo.

Beyond Traditional Sunscreens: A Review of Liposomal-Based Systems for Photoprotection

Sunscreen products are essential for shielding the skin from ultraviolet (UV) radiation, a leading cause of skin cancer. While existing products serve this purpose, there is a growing need to enhance their efficacy while minimizing potential systemic absorption of UV filters and associated toxicological risks. Liposomal-based formulations have emerged as a promising approach to address these challenges and develop advanced photoprotective products. These vesicular systems offer versatility in carrying both hydrophilic and lipophilic UV filters, enabling the creation of broad-spectrum sunscreens. Moreover, their composition based on phospholipids, resembling that of the stratum corneum, facilitates adherence to the skin's surface layers, thereby improving photoprotective efficacy. The research discussed in this review underscores the significant advantages of liposomes in photoprotection, including their ability to limit the systemic absorption of UV filters, enhance formulation stability, and augment photoprotective effects. However, despite these benefits, there remains a notable gap between the potential of liposomal systems and their utilization in sunscreen development. Consequently, this review emphasizes the importance of leveraging liposomes and related vesicular systems as innovative tools for crafting novel and more efficient photoprotective formulations.

Development of a novel human stratum corneum mimetic phospholipid -vesicle-based permeation assay models for in vitro permeation studies

OBJECTIVES

To develop and evaluate a novel human stratum corneum (SC) mimetic phospholipid vesicle-based permeation assay (PVPASC) model for in vitro permeation studies.

SIGNIFICANCE

Due to the increasing restrictions on the use of human and animal skins, artificial skin models have attracted substantial interest in pharmaceuticals and cosmetic industries. In this study, a modified PVPASC model containing both SC lipids and proteins was developed.

METHODS

The PVPASC model was optimized by altering the lipid composition and adding keratin in the formulation of large liposomes. The barrier properties were monitored by measuring the electrical resistance (ER) and permeability of Rhodamine B (RB). The modified PVPASC model was characterized in terms of the surface topography, solvent influence and storage stability. The permeation studies of the active components in Compound Nanxing Zhitong Plaster (CNZP) were performed to examine the capability of PVPASC in the application of skin penetration.

RESULTS

The ER and Papp values of RB obtained from the optimized PVPASC model indicated a similar barrier property to porcine ear skin. Scanning electron microscope analysis demonstrated a mimic 'brick-and-mortar' structure. The PVPASC model can be stored for three weeks at -20 °C, and withstand the presence of different receptor medium for 24 h. The permeation studies of the active components demonstrated a good correlation (r2 = 0.9136) of Papp values between the drugs' permeation through the PVPASC model and porcine ear skin.

CONCLUSION

Keratin contained composite phospholipid vesicle-based permeation assay models have been proven to be potential skin tools in topical/transdermal permeation studies.

Effect of Receptor Solution in Studies of In Vitro Permeation Test (IVPT)

In Vitro Permeation Test (IVPT) is commonly used to evaluate skin penetration of chemicals and performance of dermatological products. For a permeant with low aqueous solubility, an additive that is expected not to alter the skin barrier can be used in the receptor solution to improve permeant solubility. The objective of this study was to (a) evaluate the effects of these additives in IVPT receptor solution on skin permeability of model permeants and skin electrical resistance and (b) determine the solubility of the permeants in these receptor solutions. Bovine serum albumin (BSA), 2-hydroxypropyl-beta-cyclodextrin (HPCD), ethanol, nonionic surfactant Brij-98, and propylene glycol were the additives, and phosphate buffered saline (PBS) was the control. Steady-state skin permeability coefficients and resistances were determined. The receptor solutions examined in this study did not cause a significant increase in skin permeability or decrease in resistance (less than 40 % changes) except 25 % ethanol. The receptor solution containing 25 % ethanol induced an approximately twofold average increase in skin permeability and reduced skin electrical resistance by approximately threefold. The receptor solution of 2.5 % HPCD provided the highest levels of solubility for the model lipophilic permeants, while 0.2 % Brij-98 and 5 % ethanol showed the lowest solubility enhancement from those in PBS.

Development and Evaluation of a Novel Anti-Ageing Cream Based on Hyaluronic Acid and Other Innovative Cosmetic Actives

The importance of incorporating hyaluronic acid (HA) as a cosmetic ingredient in skin care formulations emerged lately because the amount of HA naturally found in the epidermis decreases with age, and when applied to the skin through cosmetic products, it confers hydration and reduces the appearance of wrinkles. Currently, the diversity of cosmetic products for mature skin and the use of various and innovative active ingredients supporting their anti-ageing effect represent ample proof that the cosmetic industry is currently relying on these actives. The main objective of this study was the development of an anti-ageing formulation, incorporating HA and different other active ingredients. The developed formulation contains a novel complex of natural waxes, with an essential role in the restoration of the skin's hydro-lipid barrier, in combination with innovative active ingredients-like low-molecular hyaluronic acid (LMW-HA), sodium hyaluronate (NaHA), ectoin, gold, and an anti-ageing botanical complex-contributing to optimal skin hydration specifically designed to reduce the visible signs of ageing. An important objective was represented by the skin compatibility and topography assessment after 28 days (D28) of regular application of the developed cream. Stability testing, physicochemical characteristics, and microbiological control, including efficacy testing of the used preservative (challenge test) were performed for the cosmetic formulation. In silico approaches were applied to demonstrate the safety of cosmetic-related substances and the risk assessment of the cosmetic formulation. Safety and instrumental evaluation were performed to demonstrate the skin tolerance-the compatibility and the efficacy, respectively-of the developed anti-ageing cream. As result, quality control of the developed cosmetic formulation evidenced an appropriate cosmetic preparation with desirable aspect and adequate physicochemical characteristics. The concentrations of restricted ingredients like preservatives and UV filters were in accordance with those recommended by the Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 and so were considered to be safe. Additionally, according to the margin of safety (MoS) calculation, cosmetic ingredients incorporated in the developed formulation could be considered safe. The developed formulation was very well tolerated, and wrinkle depth and length in the periorbital area were significantly reduced after 28-day cosmetic treatment. Subjects' assessment questionnaires revealed self-perceived benefits referring to the cosmetic qualities and efficacy of the anti-ageing cream. This study confirmed the skin tolerance and efficacy of the new complex anti-ageing cream incorporating HA, microencapsulated sodium hyaluronate, ectoin, and a botanical extract. The formulated cosmetic product could serve as a daily care for mature skin to alleviate the effects of skin ageing.

Salicin and Hederacoside C-Based Extracts and UV-Absorbers Co-Loaded into Bioactive Lipid Nanocarriers with Promoted Skin Antiaging and Hydrating Efficacy

Conventional and herbal active principles can be combined in a beneficial harmony using their best features and compensating for the certain weaknesses of each. The study will answer the question, “how can willow bark extract (Wbe) or ivy leaf extract (Ile) influence the photoprotective, skin permeation and hydration properties of Bioactive Lipid Nanocarriers (BLN) loaded with UV-filters and selected herbals?”. BLN-Wbe/Ile-UV-filters were characterized for particle size, zeta potential, thermal behavior, entrapment efficiency and drug loading. The formulated BLN-hydrogels (HG) were subjected to in vitro release and permeation experiments. The in vitro determination of sun protection factors, as well as comparative in vitro photostability tests, rheology behavior and in vivo hydration status have been also considered for hydrogels containing BLN-Ile/Wbe-UV-filters. Photoprotection of BLN-HG against UVA rays was more pronounced as compared with the UVB (UVA-PF reached values of 30, while the maximum SPF value was 13). The in vitro irradiation study demonstrated the photostability of BLN-HG under UV exposure. A noteworthy cosmetic efficacy was detected by in vivo skin test (hydration effect reached 97% for the BLN-Wbe-UV-filters prepared with pomegranate oil). The research novelty, represented by the first-time co-optation of the active herbal extracts (Wbe and Ile) together with two synthetic filters in the same nanostructured delivery system, will provide appropriate scientific support for the cosmetic industry to design novel marketed formulations with improved quality and health benefices.

In vitro safety evaluation of sunscreen formulation from nanostructured lipid carriers using human cells and skin model

There is a risk of toxicological reactions due to systemic absorption and photo-instability of sunscreens. The study aimed to investigate the safety profile (cytotoxicity, phototoxicity, photostability, UV filter release profile, and skin irritation properties) of sunscreen (NLC-TRF sunscreen) produced from nanostructured lipid carriers (NLCs) and tocotrienol-rich fraction (TRF). The cytotoxicity and phototoxicity of the sunscreen were evaluated on normal human dermal fibroblast (NHDF) and skin irritation properties was tested on skin model. Besides, the photoprotection in pre- and post-UV irradiation were analysed to determine the photostability. Additionally, the release profile for UV filters (diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate (DHHB) and ethylhexyl triazone (EHT)) were evaluated. The NLC-TRF sunscreen demonstrated no cytotoxicity and skin irritation to cause cell death. It showed no phototoxic effect and high photostability up to 10 Minimal Erythema Dose (MED) to ensure high SPF value above 50 and broad-spectrum of UV absorption. The NLC-TRF sunscreen implies its safety for topical application with sustainable release profile for UV filter (cumulative release of 28% for DHHB and 40% for EHT after 8 h) due to the application of NLCs. The results suggest that the NLC-TRF sunscreen is an advanced formulation with improved stability and is safe for topical delivery.

MS imaging and absorption methods visualizing sun filter skin spatial distribution and penetration

Sunscreens must now be effective in protecting skin from ultraviolet, as well as visible/infrared radiation. Here, TriAsorB, a new broad-spectrum sun filter, was formulated with three other sunscreens and their distribution on human skin was studied using a standard penetration protocol and two novel mass spectrometry imaging techniques: atmospheric pressure matrix assisted laser desorption ionization (AP-MALDI) coupled to high resolution mass spectrometry and time of flight - secondary ion mass spectrometry (ToF-SIMS). The standard penetration protocol showed that sun filters absorption was very low, with most of the dose recovered at the surface (none entered the receptor fluid). Absorption was not increased in damaged skin. The results were confirmed by AP-MALDI and ToF-SIMS imaging of the spatial distribution of molecular species in cross-section samples of human skin. Each sun filter was detected on or in the stratum corneum, with a good homogenous coverage over the valleys and peaks of the skin, and correlated well with the distribution of endogenous biomarkers. In conclusion, conventional and novel imaging analysis methods showed that the sun filters remained mainly on the skin surface after topical application. Mass spectrometry imaging is a promising complementary approach to traditional skin penetration studies to visualize penetration of compounds.

On line kinetic analysis of permeation profiles for UV filter loaded microemulsions using an automatic system with spectroscopic detection and a chemometric approach

The analysis of the permeation kinetics of new UV filter formulations is of great importance since the kinetic parameters are related to the effectiveness of the product over time. The dynamics of this process can be evaluated by means of the calculation of the permeation kinetic constants, which can be obtained from the respective permeation profiles. This paper is aimed at improving the analytical performance of permeation assays using an on-line automatic system with spectrometric detection avoiding the chromatographic procedure and the usually manual sampling steps required using the traditional Franz diffusion cell. Then, the kinetics of permeation of octyl p-methoxycinnamate loaded in different microemulsions through a synthetic membrane (polyamide) was analysed at real time by UV-Vis and fluorescence spectroscopies. The spectral data were obtained at regular intervals of time (5 min) during 60 min, and the concentration of the permeated UV-filter was at each time calculated using univariate linear calibration. The interference caused by the presence of basil essential oil (oily phase) in some microemulsion samples was overcome using synchronous fluorescence spectroscopy (Δλ = 60 nm) and partial least squares. In all cases, the permeation profiles were obtained (first-order kinetics) and the respective permeation kinetic constants were calculated. The validation of the proposed method was assessed by gas chromatographic-mass spectroscopy and non-significant differences for the obtained permeation kinetic constants were found between methods (p = 0.05). Additionally, a commercial sample was analysed with the proposed methods and the results were validated by high performance liquid chromatography technique.

Unplanned absorption of sunscreen ingredients: Impact of formulation and evaluation methods

Permeation of sunscreens agents reduces its effectiveness and safety, leading to systemic circulation and causing unknown adverse effects. In order to maintain the sunscreen efficacy and safety, the filters must stay on the skin surface, with minimum penetration through dermis. Even facing the possibility of filters permeation, the use of sunscreen is important to avoid skin damage as erythema, free-radicals formation, skin ageing and skin cancer, caused by ultraviolet radiation. Aiming potential side effects caused by topical absorption of sunscreens, studies are carried to improve formulation characteristics and stability, reduce skin permeation and evaluate sun protections factor (SPF). Current assays to detect the permeation of sunscreens involve in vivo or in vitro studies, to simulate physiological conditions of use. The aim of this review is to revisit sunscreen skin permeation data over the last decade and the factors that can enhance skin permeation or improve the sunscreen efficacy.

Physicochemical characteristics and in vitro permeation of loratadine solid lipid nanoparticles for transdermal delivery

Aim: To prepare loratadine-loaded solid lipid nanoparticles (SLNs) using a modified two-step ultrasound-assisted phase inversion temperature (PIT) process. Results/methodology: Loratadine was dissolved in beeswax and Tween 80 was dissolved in water. The two phases were mixed together to prepare a water-in-oil emulsion preconcentrate (w/o) at a PIT of 85°C, followed by gradual water addition at 25°C to trigger nanoparticles formation (o/w). Kinetic stability was investigated. No change in the size was observed within 6 months. Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy demonstrated stability of the emulsions via molecular structure of water at the interface of the o/w nanoemulsions. SLNs enhanced the in vitro skin permeation of loratadine. Conclusion: Stable SLNs were successfully prepared by ultrasound-assisted PIT.

Topical Delivery of 3-O-ethyl l-ascorbic Acid from Complex Solvent Systems

3-O-ethyl l-ascorbic acid (EA), an ether derivative of Vitamin C, is widely used in skincare formulations. Previously, we reported the effects of neat solvents on EA percutaneous absorption and observed that 0.6–7.5% of the applied EA was delivered through the skin over 24 h. In this work, we designed complex formulations using combinations of solvents that may act synergistically and examined their impact on EA permeation in porcine skin in vitro under finite dose conditions. Binary combinations of propylene glycol (PG) with propylene glycol monolaurate (PGML) were effective in enhancing skin permeation of EA compared with individual solvents (p < 0.05). Combining PGML with 1,2-hexanediol (HEX) did not result in significantly higher EA permeation compared with the neat solvents (p > 0.05). Addition of the volatile solvent isopropyl alcohol (IPA) to PG solutions also did not improve EA skin delivery compared with neat PG. Ternary solvent systems containing PG:PGML were subsequently prepared by the addition of a lipophilic solvent, either isopropyl myristate (IPM), medium-chain triglycerides (MCT) or isostearyl isostearate (ISIS). The optimum vehicle, PG:PGML:IPM, promoted up to 70.9% skin delivery of EA. The PG:PGML:ISIS vehicles also promoted EA permeation across the skin, but to a significantly lesser extent than the IPM-containing vehicles. No enhancement of EA delivery was noted for the PG:PGML:MCT mixtures. These results will inform the development of targeted formulations for EA in the future.

Advances and controversies in studying sunscreen delivery and toxicity

This review critically evaluates the sunscreen delivery and toxicity field. We chose to focus on approved sunscreens in this review. Optimal sunscreen use prevents skin cancer and photoageing but there is an important knowledge gap in sunscreen/skin interactions. Sunscreen delivery is a key for efficacy, but studying sunscreen delivery is not straightforward. We review the strengths and weaknesses of in vitro, excised skin and clinical approaches. Understanding positive and negative sunscreen effects on skin homeostasis is also challenging. The results in this field, especially in vitro testing, are controversial and experimental design varies widely which further supports disparities between some findings. We hypothesize that bias towards showing sunscreen toxicity to increase impact could be problematic. We explore that perception through a detailed review of experimental design, especially in cell culture models. Our conclusion is that emerging, non- and minimally invasive technologies are enabling new approaches to volunteer studies that could significantly improve knowledge of sunscreen delivery and interactions.

Formulation and evaluation of UV protective synbiotic skin care topical formulation

Objective: The objective of current study to investigate the photo protective potential of synbiotic formulation comprising of prebiotic and probiotic. Methods: Selenium nanoparticles were synthesized by chemical reduction method and investigated for physical-chemical properties including morphology, physical state, and free radical scavenging potential. Selection of probiotic biomass was made on the free radical scavenging potential by using NO assay. A topical w/o emulsion-based cream was prepared with screened ingredients to achieve a stable product with optimum free radical scavenging potential. The finished product was investigated for various mechanical, physiochemical, and viscoelastic characteristics. The SPF of optimized formulation was determined in UV-stimulated Wistar rat model. Results: Results indicated that the finished product shows nanoscale feature of elemental selenium. Cream comprising of potential free radical reagent (Selenium nanoparticles with IC₅₀ 50.097 µg/ml and biomass of Lactobacillus rhamnosus have IC₅₀ 61.63 µg/ml) exhibits a SPF of 29.77. Optimized skin care formulation has desirable physiochemical and viscoelastic properties required for topical application. Histopathology and Draize test indicated the finished product does not show any sign of skin toxicity. Conclusion: Results inferred that topical formulation combining the features of selenium and probiotic biomass offer an effective alternative for the treatment of sunburn complications.

Quantification of prominent organic UV filters and their metabolites in human urine and plasma samples

Monitoring human exposure to chemical UV filters is essential for an accurate assessment of the health risk caused by the resorbed compounds. We developed different procedures for the determination of the prominent UV filters octocrylene (OC), avobenzone (AVO) and 2-ethylhexyl salicylate (EHS) as well as for two OC and EHS metabolites in human urine and OC, AVO and 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylic acid (CDAA) in plasma samples using liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry (LC-MS/MS). Since the development of a multi-method for all analytes proved to be difficult, three different procedures were established for the determination of AVO, OC and its metabolite CDAA in urine and plasma as well as for EHS and its metabolite 5-hydroxy-EHS in urine. The methods have been validated with good sensitivity, precision and accuracy. The procedures were satisfactorily applied to the determination of the target compounds in human samples collected from volunteers after sunscreen application. These new analytical procedures can provide information on the internal exposure to the UV filters OC, AVO and EHS, which has been little studied.

Use of Vegetable Oils to Improve the Sun Protection Factor of Sunscreen Formulations

Some vegetable oils have many biological properties, including UV-absorbing capacity. Therefore, their use has been suggested to reduce the content of organic UV-filters in sunscreen products. In this work, we investigated the feasibility of developing oil-based vehicles with a high sun protection factor (SPF) using pomegranate oil (PMG) and shea oil (BPO) in association with different percentages of organic UV-filters (octyl– methoxycinnamate, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, and bemotrizinol). We characterized the spreadability, occlusion factor, pH, and required hydrophilic lipophilic balance of the resulting formulations, and did not observe relevant differences due to the incorporation of vegetable oils. The in vitro spectrophotometric determinations of SPF values highlighted that the addition of BPO (1% (w/w)) and PMG (1% (w/w)) resulted in an increase in SPF in comparison with the same formulations that contained only organic UV-filters. The SPF increase was more significant for the formulations that contained lower amounts of organic UV-filters. The results of this study supported the hypothesis that including suitable vegetable oils in sunscreen formulations could be a promising strategy to design products with a lower content of organic UV-filters.