Phytoconstituents as photoprotective novel cosmetic formulations

The Effect of α-Arbutin on UVB-Induced Damage and Its Underlying Mechanism

Ultraviolet radiation can heighten tyrosinase activity, stimulate melanocyte production, impede the metabolism of numerous melanocytes, and result in the accumulation of plaques on the skin surface. α-Arbutin, a bioactive substance extracted from the arbutin plant, has been widely used for skin whitening. In this study, the whitening effect of α-arbutin by inhibiting tyrosinase activity and alleviating the photoaging effect induced by UVB are investigated. The results indicate that α-arbutin can inhibit skin inflammation, and its effectiveness is positively correlated with concentration. Moreover, α-arbutin can reduce the skin epidermal thickness, decrease the number of inflammatory cells, and down-regulate the expression levels of IL-1β, IL-6 and TNF-α, which are inflammatory factors. It also promotes the expression of COL-1 collagen, thus playing an important role in anti-inflammatory action. Network pharmacology, metabolomics and transcriptomics further confirm that α-arbutin is related to the L-tyrosine metabolic pathway and may interfere with various signaling pathways related to melanin and other photoaging by regulating metabolic changes. Therefore, α-arbutin has a potential inhibitory effect on UVB-induced photoaging and possesses a whitening effect as a cosmetic compound.

In-vitro Antioxidant, In-vitro and In-silico Ovarian Anticancer Activity (Ovarian Cancer Cells-PA1) and Phytochemical Analysis of Cissus quadrangularis L. Ethanolic Extract

BACKGROUND

Cissus quadrangularis is a valuable natural source of traditional medicines.

OBJECTIVE

An in vitro investigation was performed to determine whether the ethanolic extract from the whole portions of C. quadrangularis had anticancer and free radical scavenging activities against ovarian cancer cells-PA1. C. quadrangularis is a herb collected from rural areas in Andhra Pradesh, India.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

C. quadrangularis was air-dried and crushed, and the powder and ethanol (0.5 kg) were used in a Soxhlet device for continuous extraction. Phytochemical analysis of the extracts was performed using a standard procedure. The antioxidant activity of the ethanolic extract of C. quadrangularis was evaluated using DPPH. An in vitro anticancer study used an ethanolic extract against the PA1 cell line. Apoptosis of ovarian cancer cells was studied using DAPI and carboxy-H2DCFDA staining. From LC-MS analysis, quercetin-3-O-alpha-Lrhamnopyranoside and erucic acid were docked with the threonine tyrosine kinase (TTK) enzyme using auto docking.

RESULTS

The ethanolic extract of C. quadrangularis demonstrated significant dose-dependent antioxidant activity compared to ascorbic acid. The ethanolic extract of C. quadrangularis was found to have high anticancer activity against ovarian cancer cell lines (PA1), with an IC50 value of 482.057 ± 113.857 μg/ml. DAPI and carboxy-H2DCFDA staining confirmed that C. quadrangularis ethanolic extract induced apoptosis in ovarian cancer cells (p < .001). Molecular docking studies helped identify the binding affinities between the protein and ligand complexes, such as Quercetin-3-O-alpha-Lrhamnopyranoside binding sites of target proteins 5N7V (MET602, GLN672) and erucic acid 5N7V (GLY354). Quercetin-3-O-alpha-L-rhamnopyranoside was reported to bind with 5N7V by hydrogen bonding at MET602 and GLN672 amino acids with 2.02, 2.99 Å bonding length distance and binding affinity of -7.9 kcal/mol. Erucic acid was reported to bind with 5N7V by hydrogen bonding at GLY354 amino acid with 3.18, 2.93 Å bonding length (Å) distance and binding affinity of -4.3 kcal/mol. The current analysis showed that the ethanolic extracts of C. quadrangularis L. exhibited antioxidant and anticancer properties against ovarian PA1 cells.

CONCLUSION

The experimental results confirmed that C. quadrangularis L. is a promising, safe chemotherapeutic plant for ovarian cancer PA1 cells. The docking results demonstrated that Quercetin-3-O-alpha-L-rhamnopyranoside strongly binds threonine tyrosine kinase at the MET602 and GLN672 positions. This study showed that the C. quadrangularis ethanolic extract has Quercetin-3-O-alpha-L-rhamnopyranoside, which can be used as an anticancer agent.

Nanotechnology-Based Approaches for Cosmeceutical and Skin Care: A Systematic Review

Cosmeceuticals have gained great importance and are among the top-selling products used for skin care. Because of changing lifestyles, climate, and increasing pollution, cosmeceuticals are utilized by every individual, thereby making cosmeceuticals a fruitful field for research and the economy. Cosmeceuticals provide incredibly pleasing aesthetic results by fusing the qualities of both cosmetics and medicinal substances. Cosmeceuticals are primarily utilized to improve the appearance of skin by making it smoother, moisturized, and wrinkle-free, in addition to treating dermatological conditions, including photoaging, burns, dandruff, acne, eczema, and erythema. Nanocosmeceuticals are cosmetic products that combine therapeutic effects utilizing nanotechnology, allowing for more precise and effective target-specific delivery of active ingredients, and improving bioavailability.

Targeted Delivery of 5-Fluorouracil and Sonidegib via Surface-Modified ZIF-8 MOFs for Effective Basal Cell Carcinoma Therapy

The therapeutic effectiveness of the most widely used anticancer drug 5-fluorouracil (5-FU) is constrained by its high metabolism, short half-life, and rapid drug resistance after chemotherapy. Although various nanodrug delivery systems have been reported for skin cancer therapy, their retention, penetration and targeting are still a matter of concern. Hence, in the current study, a topical gel formulation that contains a metal-organic framework (zeolitic imidazole framework; ZIF-8) loaded with 5-FU and a surface modified with sonidegib (SDG; acting as a therapeutic agent as well as a targeting ligand) (5-FU@ZIF-8 MOFs) is developed against DMBA-UV-induced BCC skin cancer in rats. The MOFs were prepared using one-pot synthesis followed by post drug loading and SDG conjugation. The optimized MOFs were incorporated into hyaluronic acid-hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose gel and further subjected to characterization. Enhanced skin deposition of the 5-FU@ZIF-8-SDG MOFs was observed using ex vivo skin permeation studies. Confocal laser microscopy studies showed that 5-FU@ZIF-8-SDG MOFs permeated the skin via the transfollicular pathway. The 5-FU@ZIF-8-SDG MOFs showed stronger cell growth inhibition in A431 cells and good biocompatibility with HaCaT cells. Histopathological studies showed that the efficacy of the optimized MOF gels improved as the epithelial cells manifested modest hyperplasia, nuclear pleomorphism, and dyskeratosis. Additionally, immunohistochemistry and protein expression studies demonstrated the improved effectiveness of the 5-FU@ZIF-8-SDG MOFs, which displayed a considerable reduction in the expression of Bcl-2 protein. Overall, the developed MOF gels showed good potential for the targeted delivery of multifunctional MOFs in topical formulations for treating BCC cancer.

Dark chocolate: An overview of its biological activity, processing, and fortification approaches

Dark chocolate gets popularity for several decades due to its enormous health benefits. It contains several health-promoting factors (bioactive components - polyphenols, flavonoids, procyanidins, theobromines, etc, and vitamins and minerals) that positively modulate the immune system of human beings. It confers safeguards against cardiovascular diseases, certain types of cancers, and other brain-related disorders like Alzheimer's disease, Parkinson's disease, etc. Dark chocolate is considered a functional food due to its anti-diabetic, anti-inflammatory, and anti-microbial properties. It also has a well-established role in weight management and the alteration of a lipid profile to a healthy direction. But during the processing of dark chocolate, several nutrients are lost (polyphenol, flavonoids, flavan 3 ol, ascorbic acid, and thiamine). So, fortification would be an effective method of enhancing the overall nutrient content and also making the dark chocolate self-sufficient. Thus, the focus of this review study is to gather all the experimental studies done on dark chocolate fortification. Several ingredients were used for the fortification, such as fruits (mulberry, chokeberries, and elderberries), spices (cinnamon), phytosterols, peanut oil, probiotics (mainly Lactobacillus, bacillus spices), prebiotics (inulin, xanthan gum, and maltodextrin), flavonoids, flavan-3-ols, etc. Those fortifications were done to raise the total antioxidant content as well as essential fatty acid content simultaneously reducing total calorie content. Sometimes, the fortification was done to improve physical properties like viscosity, rheological propertiesand also improve overall consumer acceptance by modifying its bitter taste.

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Dark chocolate gets popularity for several decades due to its enormous health benefits.

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Dark chocolate is considered a functional food due to its health benefits.

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During the processing of dark chocolate, several nutrients are lost.

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Fortification would be an effective method of enhancing the overall nutrient content.

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This review study is to gather all the experimental studies done on dark chocolate fortification.

Role of solid lipid nanoparticle for the delivery of Lipophilic Drugs and Herbal Medicines in the treatment of pulmonary hypertension

Pulmonary arterial hypertension (PAH) is an uncommon condition marked by elevated pulmonary artery pressure that leads to right ventricular failure. The majority of drugs are now been approved by FDA for PAH, however, several biopharmaceutical hindrances lead to failure of the therapy. Various novel drug delivery systems are available in the literature from which lipid-based nanoparticles i.e. solid lipid nanoparticle is widely investigated for improving the solubility and bioavailability of drugs. In this paper, the prototype phytoconstituents used in pulmonary arterial hypertension have limited solubility and bioavailability. We highlighted the novel concepts of SLN for lipophilic phytoconstituents with their potential applications. This paper also reviews the present state of the art regarding production techniques for SLN like High-Pressure Homogenization, Micro-emulsion Technique, and Phase Inversion Temperature Method, etc. Furthermore, toxicity aspects and in vivo fate of SLN are also highlighted in this review. In a nutshell, safer delivery of phytoconstituents by SLN added a novel feather to the cap of successful drug delivery technologies.

Salicin and Hederacoside C-Based Extracts and UV-Absorbers Co-Loaded into Bioactive Lipid Nanocarriers with Promoted Skin Antiaging and Hydrating Efficacy

Conventional and herbal active principles can be combined in a beneficial harmony using their best features and compensating for the certain weaknesses of each. The study will answer the question, “how can willow bark extract (Wbe) or ivy leaf extract (Ile) influence the photoprotective, skin permeation and hydration properties of Bioactive Lipid Nanocarriers (BLN) loaded with UV-filters and selected herbals?”. BLN-Wbe/Ile-UV-filters were characterized for particle size, zeta potential, thermal behavior, entrapment efficiency and drug loading. The formulated BLN-hydrogels (HG) were subjected to in vitro release and permeation experiments. The in vitro determination of sun protection factors, as well as comparative in vitro photostability tests, rheology behavior and in vivo hydration status have been also considered for hydrogels containing BLN-Ile/Wbe-UV-filters. Photoprotection of BLN-HG against UVA rays was more pronounced as compared with the UVB (UVA-PF reached values of 30, while the maximum SPF value was 13). The in vitro irradiation study demonstrated the photostability of BLN-HG under UV exposure. A noteworthy cosmetic efficacy was detected by in vivo skin test (hydration effect reached 97% for the BLN-Wbe-UV-filters prepared with pomegranate oil). The research novelty, represented by the first-time co-optation of the active herbal extracts (Wbe and Ile) together with two synthetic filters in the same nanostructured delivery system, will provide appropriate scientific support for the cosmetic industry to design novel marketed formulations with improved quality and health benefices.

Anti-Aging Effects of a Serum Based on Coconut Oil Combined with Deer Antler Stem Cell Extract on a Mouse Model of Skin Aging

Anti-aging is one of the top goals in the field of health care and aesthetics. Anti-aging cosmetics derived from nature are oriented to long-term development, bringing safety to users and being environmentally friendly. The aim of this study was to develop an anti-aging cosmetic formulation process based on coconut oil in combination with deer antler stem cell extract. The results show that the presence of deer antler stem cell extract added to the foundation made the serum product highly stable and helped improve skin aging significantly after 2 weeks of use. The skin site where the serum product was applied showed a smooth and elastic skin surface, with very few fine lines and shallow wrinkles. Serum reduced the number of wrinkles (48.09% compared to commercial serum (ME) and 60.31% compared to positive control (PC)), reduced skin recovery time (39.31% compared to ME and 67.1% of PC) after two weeks of use. After 2 weeks of use, collagen density increased 10.18% compared to ME and 63.76% compared to control. Epidermal thickness increased by 106.1% compared to PC and 121.7% compared to ME.

Unravelling the photoprotective effects of freshwater alga Nostoc commune Vaucher ex Bornet et Flahault against ultraviolet radiations

Several studies have suggested the direct relationship between skin complications, air pollution, and UV irradiation. UVB radiations cause various skin complications such as skin aging, skin inflammation, and skin cancer. The current study is designed to develop an ultraviolet (UV) absorbing MAA-loaded topical gel and to evaluate its UVA and UVB screening potential. MAA was extracted from the Nostoc commune Vaucher ex Bornet et Flahault (N. commune) and characterized by HPLC-PDA (with a retention time 2.6 min), UV-Visible (absorption maximum 334 nm), and mass spectrometry (m/z 346.2) techniques. The methanolic (10%) solution of MAA (50-150 μl) was dissolved in propylene glycol and mixed with hydrated gel (1.5 % of carbopol 934) by using EDTA (0.3%). Eight (F1-F8) formulations were evaluated for their physico-chemical characters. F7 retained its physio-chemical characters for 90 days. Further selected formulation (F7) was evaluated for its gelling strength (GSg), gelling temperature (GT), melting temperature (MT), apparent viscosity (cp), molecular mass (MMS), pH, physical appearance, homogeneity, and spreading diameter (SD). The stability study of the fabricated gel formulation was done as per International Committee on Harmonization guidelines and sunscreen potential was determined by in vitro sunscreen UV method. Findings revealed that GSg (337 ± 1.7 g/cm²), GT (22.8 ± 0.2 °C), cp (71.1 ± 0.2), MMS (424.177 ± 0.7), pH (6.2 ± 0.04), and SD (56 ± 0.2). For in vitro sunscreen potential determination, different concentrations of F7 (50-150 μl) were prepared. Topical application of the F7 displayed UV-A/UV-B photoprotection with SPF 1.13 folds greater then marketed formulation (Lotus herbals UV screen gel). Based on these findings, it was concluded that methanolic extract derived from N. commune contains Porphyra-334 which can be potentially used as photo protective compound in several cosmetic preparations. Development of sunscreen gel from Nostoc commune The current investigation is designed to develop ultraviolet (UV) absorbing MAA (mycosporine amino acid)-loaded topical gel from Nostoc commune to evaluate its UVA and UVB screening potential. LCMS characterization of HPLC-PDA purified MAA from N. commune methanolic extract demonstrated a prominent ion peak of a protonated molecule ([M + H]⁺) at m/z 346.2 [M+H]+ value confirmed the presence of Porphyra-334. Porphyra-334 is a broad-spectrum sun-protective compound evidenced for its potential in blocking UVA and UVB (Bhatia et al. 2010). Prepared sunscreen formulations remain stable for prolonged period and provide broad-spectrum protection against harmful UV range.

Biological Approaches for Extraction of Bioactive Compounds From Agro-industrial By-products: A Review

Bioactive compounds can provide health benefits beyond the nutritional value and are originally present or added to food matrices. However, because they are part of the food matrices, most bioactive compounds remain in agroindustrial by-products. Agro-industrial by-products are generated in large quantities throughout the food production chain and can—when not properly treated—affect the environment, the profit, and the proper and nutritional distribution of food to people. Thus, it is important to adopt processes that increase the use of these agroindustrial by-products, including biological approaches, which can enhance the extraction and obtention of bioactive compounds, which enables their application in food and pharmaceutical industries. Biological processes have several advantages compared to nonbiological processes, including the provision of extracts with high quality and bioactivity, as well as extracts that present low toxicity and environmental impact. Among biological approaches, extraction from enzymes and fermentation stand out as tools for obtaining bioactive compounds from various agro-industrial wastes. In this sense, this article provides an overview of the main bioactive components found in agroindustrial by-products and the biological strategies for their extraction. We also provide information to enhance the use of these bioactive compounds, especially for the food and pharmaceutical industries.

In Vitro Evaluation of the Photoreactivity and Phototoxicity of Natural Polyphenol Antioxidants

Polyphenols are a large family of natural compounds widely used in cosmetic products due to their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory beneficial properties and their ability to prevent UV radiation-induced oxidative stress. Since these compounds present chromophores and are applied directly to the skin, they can react with sunlight and exert phototoxic effects. The available scientific information on the phototoxic potential of these natural compounds is scarce, and thus the aim of this study was to evaluate the photoreactivity and phototoxicity of five phenolic antioxidants with documented use in cosmetic products. A standard ROS assay was validated and applied to screen the photoreactivity of the natural phenolic antioxidants caffeic acid, ferulic acid, p-coumaric acid, 3,4-dihydroxyphenylacetic acid (DOPAC), and rutin. The phototoxicity potential was determined by using a human keratinocyte cell line (HaCaT), based on the 3T3 Neutral Red Uptake phototoxicity test. Although all studied phenolic antioxidants absorbed UV/Vis radiation in the range of 290 to 700 nm, only DOPAC was able to generate singlet oxygen. The generation of reactive oxygen species is an early-stage chemical reaction as part of the phototoxicity mechanism. Yet, none of the studied compounds decreased the viability of keratinocytes after irradiation, leading to the conclusion that they do not have phototoxic potential. The data obtained with this work suggests that these compounds are safe when incorporated in cosmetic products.

Emerging nanoformulation strategies for phytocompounds and applications from drug delivery to phototherapy to imaging

Over thousands of years, natural bioactive compounds derived from plants (bioactive phytocompounds, BPCs) have been used worldwide to address human health issues. Today, they are a significant resource for drug discovery in the development of modern medicines. Although many BPCs have promising biological activities, most of them cannot be effectively utilized in drugs for therapeutic applications because of their inherent limitations of low solubility, structural instability, short half-life, poor bioavailability, and non-specific distribution to organs. Researchers have utilized emerging nanoformulation (NF) technologies to overcome these limitations as they have demonstrated great potential to improve the solubility, stability, and pharmacokinetic and pharmacodynamic characteristics of BPCs. This review exemplifies NF strategies for resolving the issues associated with BPCs and summarizes recent advances in their preclinical and clinical applications for imaging and therapy. This review also highlights how innovative NF technologies play a leading role in next-generation BPC-based drug development for extended therapeutic applications. Finally, this review discusses the opportunities to take BPCs with meaningful clinical impact from bench to bedside and extend the patent life of BPC-based medicines with new formulations or application to new adjacent diseases beyond the primary drug indications.

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Natural bioactive phytocompounds derived from plants have been used worldwide to address human health issues. However, most of them cannot be effectively utilized in drugs for therapeutic applications because of their inherent limitations.

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Nanoformulation approach has recently been underlined as an emerging pharmaceutical strategy to overcome the intrinsic drawbacks of bioactive phytocompounds.

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Various types of nanoformulation and their up-to-date applications for targeted delivery, phototherapy, and imaging are reviewed. Finally, their clinical implications for the repurposing of bioactive phytocompounds are deliberated.

Suppression of Sunscreen Leakage in Water by Amyloid-like Protein Aggregates

A sunscreen offers indispensable skin protection against UV damage and related skin diseases. However, due to the poor interfacial stability of sunscreen coatings on the skin, the synthetic ingredients in sunscreen creams easily fall off and enter aquatic environments, causing large ecological hazards and skin protection failure. Herein, we tackle this issue by introducing amyloid-like protein aggregates into a sunscreen to noticeably enhance the interfacial robustness of sunscreen coatings on the skin. The synthesis of such an agent to suppress sunscreen leakage can be achieved by manipulating the phase transition of bovine serum albumin (BSA) in a mild aqueous solution at room temperature. The resulting phase-transitioned BSA (PTB) aggregates effectively entrap the sunscreen ingredients to generate a uniform cream coating on the skin with robust amyloid-mediated interfacial adhesion stability. With continuous flushing in aquatic environments, such as salt water and seawater, this PTB-modified sunscreen (PTB sunscreen) coated on the skin maintains a retention ratio as high as >92%, which is 2-10 times higher than those of commercially available sunscreen products. The high retention ratio of the PTB sunscreen in aquatic environments demonstrates the great potential of amyloid-like protein aggregates in the development of leakage-free sunscreens with low ecosystem hazards and long-lasting UV protection in aquatic environments.

Natural Ingredients Common in the Trás-os-Montes Region (Portugal) for Use in the Cosmetic Industry: A Review about Chemical Composition and Antigenotoxic Properties

The natural cosmetics market has grown since consumers became aware of the concept of natural-based ingredients. A significant number of cosmetics have an ecological impact on the environment and carry noxious and chemically potent substances. Thus, the use of natural and organic cosmetics becomes increasingly important since it is clear that topical treatment with cosmeceuticals can help improve skin rejuvenation. A substantial investigation into the benefits that fruits and plants can bring to health is required. Studies have shown that antigenotoxic properties are linked to anti-aging properties. Several studies have shown potential antigenotoxicity in natural ingredients such as Almonds (Prunus dulcis), Elderberry (Sambucus nigra), Olives (Olea europaea), and Grapes (Vitis vinifera). This review presents an overview of research conducted on these natural ingredients, the most common in the Northeast of Portugal. This region of Portugal possesses the most organic farmers, and ingredients are easily obtained. The Northeast of Portugal also has climatic, topographic, and pedological differences that contribute to agricultural diversity.

Formulation and organoleptic evaluation of Poly Herbal Cream of Punica, Neem, Carrot & Jamun as Active Ingredients

Assuming that herbal preparation is better with fewer side effects than synthetics, natural treatments are more effective than allopathy in terms of side effects for better human body healing. Herbal products have a growing demand in the world market, and the plants have been reported in the literature as having various pharmacological activities such as anti-microbial, anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatory activity, anti-cancer, anti-diabetic. The purpose of this study was to develop anti-aging poly-herbal cream by mixing the extract of Punica leaf, Neem Oil, Jamun powder, Carrot powder as the main ingredient, and then creams were developed based on the anti-oxidant ability of herbal extracts and performed their evaluation study. Punica granatam leaves were shade dried and extracted using the Soxhlet method with different solvents such as n-hexane, benzene, and alcohol. Fine extract powder was collected and removed distilled water thoroughly. The cream was formulated into different concentrations, namely F1, F2, F3, and F4. Similar types of research with similar components have been reported, but in this experiment, the formulation is different, and this work is kept cost-efficient and straightforward; it's an attempt to reduce few components and prepare cream and evaluate its potential. According to The International Council for Harmonization of Technical Requirements for Pharmaceuticals for Human Use ICH guidelines, the cream was stable during stability studies, and F3 turned out to be a better formulation than the other three.

Sunflower seed byproduct and its fractions for food application: An attempt to improve the sustainability of the oil process

The sunflower (Helianthus annus L.) is one of the main oil crops in the world grown for the production of edible and biodiesel oil. Byproducts of the extraction of sunflower oil constitute a raw material with potential for several applications in the food area due to its chemical composition, including the high content of proteins and phenolic compounds. Thoughtful of a consumer increasingly concerned with the environmental impact, we try to clarify in this review the potential of using sunflower seed byproducts and their fractions to enhance the production of potentially functional foods. The applications of sunflower seed byproduct include its transformation into flours/ingredients that are capable of improving the nutritional and functional value of foods. In addition, the protein isolates obtained from sunflower seed byproduct have good technological properties and improve the nutritional value of food products. These protein isolates can be used to obtain protein hydrolysates with technological and bioactive properties and as matrices for the development of edible, biodegradable, and active films for food. The sunflower seed byproduct is also a source of phenolic compounds with bioactive properties, mainly chlorogenic acid, which can be extracted by different methods and applied in the development of functional foods and active and bioactive food packaging. The use of sunflower seed byproduct and its fractions are promising ingredients for the development of healthier and less expensive foods as well as the alternative to decrease the environmental problems caused by the sunflower oil industry.

Downregulation of MMP1 expression mediates the anti-aging activity of Citrus sinensis peel extract nanoformulation in UV induced photoaging in mice

Aging of the skin is a complicated bioprocess that is affected by constant exposure to ultraviolet irradiation. The application of herbal-based anti-aging creams is still the best choice for treatment. In the present study, Citrus sinensis L. fruit peels ethanolic extract (CSPE) was formulated into lipid nanoparticles (LNPs) anti-aging cream. Eight different formulations of CSEP-LNPs were prepared and optimized using 2³ full factorial designs. In vivo antiaging effect of the best formula was tested in Swiss albino mice where photo-aging was induced by exposure to UV radiation. HPLC-QToF-MS/MS metabolic profiling of CSPE led to the identification of twenty-nine metabolites. CSPE was standardized to a hesperidin content of 15.53 ± 0.152 mg% using RP-HPLC. It was suggested that the optimized formulation (F7) had (245 nm) particle size, (91.065%) EE, and (91.385%) occlusive effect with a spherical and smooth surface. The visible appearance of UV-induced photoaging in mice was significantly improved after topical application on CSPE-NLC cream for 5 weeks, levels of collagen and SOD were significantly increased in CSPE- NLC group, while levels of PGE2, COX2, JNK, MDA, and elastin was reduced. Finally, The prepared anti-aging CSPE-NLC cream represents a safe, convenient, and promising skincare cosmetic product.

Skin photo-protection with phytochemicals against photo-oxidative stress, photo-carcinogenesis, signal transduction pathways and extracellular matrix remodeling-An overview

Excessive exposure of skin to UV radiation triggers the generation of oxidative stress, inflammation, immunosuppression, apoptosis, matrix-metalloproteases production, and DNA mutations leading to the onset of photo ageing and photo-carcinogenesis. At the molecular level, these changes occur via activation of several protein kinases as well as transcription pathways, formation of reactive oxygen species, and release of cytokines, interleukins and prostaglandins together. Current therapies available on the market only provide limited solutions and exhibit several side effects. The present paper provides insight into scientific studies that have elucidated the positive role of phytochemicals in counteracting the UV-induced depletion of antioxidant enzymes, increased lipid peroxidation, inflammation, DNA mutations, increased senescence, dysfunctional apoptosis and immune suppression. The contribution of phytochemicals to the downregulation of expression of oxidative-stress sensitive transcription factors (Nrf2, NF-Kb, AP-1 and p53) and protein kinases (MSK, ERK, JNK, p38 MAPK, p90RSK2 and CaMKs) involved in inflammation, apoptosis, immune suppression, extracellular matrix remodelling, senescence, photo ageing and photo-carcinogenesis, is also discussed. Conclusively, several phytochemicals hold potential for the development of a viable solution against UV irradiation-mediated photo ageing, photo-carcinogenesis and related manifestations.

Andrographis Paniculata and Its Bioactive Diterpenoids Protect Dermal Fibroblasts Against Inflammation and Oxidative Stress

Andrographis paniculata (Burm.f.) has long been used in ayurvedic medicine through its anti-inflammatory properties. However, its protective effect of skin aging has not been studied in vitro. This study aimed to investigate the anti-aging effects of methanolic extract (ME), andrographolide (ANDRO), neoandrographolide (NEO), 14-deoxyandrographolide (14DAP) and 14-deoxy-11,12-didehydroandrographolide (14DAP11-12) on human dermal fibroblasts (HDFa) under pro-oxidant or pro-inflammatory condition. The in vitro anti-aging capacity of ME, ANDRO, NEO, 14DAP, and 14DAP11-12 (1, 2.5 and 5 µg/mL) was performed in HDFa. Oxidative stress and inflammation were induced by hydrogen peroxide and lipopolysaccharide/TNF-α, respectively. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) production was measured by the fluorescence of DCF-DA probe and cytokines were quantified by ELISA (IL6 and IL8) or RTqPCR (TNF-α). Procollagen type I production was determined by an ELISA. Our results showed a decrease in ROS production with ME and 14DAP at 5 µg/mL and 1 µg/mL, respectively. Furthermore, IL-6 production and TNF-α expression decreased under ANDRO and ME at 5 µg/mL. Our data indicated that ME and 14DAP protect from oxidative stress. Additionally, ME and ANDRO decreased an inflammation marker, IL-6. This suggests their potential natural treatment against skin damage. Hence, their applications could be of interest in cosmetics for preventing skin ageing.

Naringin nano-ethosomal novel sunscreen creams: Development and performance evaluation

Long term exposure of skin to UV rays produces detrimental effects such as premature skin-ageing and skin cancer. Although, zinc oxide (ZnO) and titanium dioxide (TiO₂) are good sunscreen agents, they do not provide highly efficient UV radiation protection and antioxidant and anti-aging effects. The present study was aimed at developing and characterizing ethosomes loaded with naringin and then to incorporate them into sunscreen creams containing nano-ZnO and -TiO₂ to achieve adequate skin penetration and skin retention so as to scavenge the free radicals by virtue of naringin's antioxidant property. Ethosomes were prepared and optimized with respect to concentrations of ethanol and cholesterol, time of sonication, drug and lipid ratio and amount of drug. The ethosomes were evaluated for size, zeta potential (ZP), polydispersity index (PDI), encapsulation efficiency and surface morphology. Ethosomal sunscreen creams were evaluated for physicochemical tests, spreadability, antioxidant, cytotoxicity and skin permeation studies. Optimized ethosomal formulation exhibited average vesicle size, PDI, ZP and drug encapsulation efficiency of 142.5 ± 5.6 nm, 0.199 ± 0.007, -72.5 ± 2.9 mV and 33.79 ± 1.35%, respectively. Naringin ethosomes showed enhanced retention in the skin (403.44 ± 15.33 μg/cm²) compared to naringin suspension (202.81 ± 9.45 μg/cm²). The optimized sunscreen cream exhibited SPF of 21.21 ± 0.62 with negligible permeation of naringin across the skin. Ethosomes showed pronounced skin permeation for naringin and optimized cream containing naringin ethosomes along with nano- ZnO and TiO2 showed good skin retention for naringin.

Age-Deterring and Skin Care Function of a Polyphenol Rich Sugarcane Concentrate

Increasing evidence suggests that environmental stress, such as UV radiation, generates reactive oxygen and nitrogen species in skin cells, leading to histochemical changes including skin disorders and aging, hyper pigmentation, and increased formation of wrinkles. Besides the defensive system in skin composed of vitamins and intrinsic antioxidant enzymes, topical and skin conditioning products have been used commonly to eradicate or eliminate these skin ailments. Among various ingredients providing nourishing and moisturizing effect in skin, antioxidants have been reported to be a key ingredient to counteract skin aging processes and skin disorders. Derived from a patented extraction process, a polyphenol rich sugarcane concentrate (Officinol™) becomes the focus of this study due to its rich content of polyphenols known to be strong antioxidants. In this work, we carried out a series of cell-based in vitro studies to examine the use of Officinol™ in anti-aging and skin care functions. Our studies show that Officinol™ activated telomerase, a major biomarker that have been reported to be associated with slowed cellular aging process. When skin cells were under environmental stress such as UV radiation, Officinol™ inhibited MMP-1, an interstitial collagenase in skin cells, and deterred the breakdown of collagen that provides supple texture in skin. Officinol™ also inhibited cellular expression of melanin pigmentation and tyrosinase activity, two major biomarkers causing skin pigmentation and aging spots, and inhibited elastase, an enzyme that facilities the reduction of skin elasticity. At the end of the investigation, we carried out a 10-person, pilot study to examine the effect of Officinol™ on skin lightening and fine line and wrinkle reduction in human skin. The combination of the in vitro and the human pre-study indicates that Officinol™ could provide significant preventative and protective functions including antioxidant, anti-aging, wrinkle reduction, and skin brightening for human skin suffering from aging and other stress. These findings are to be confirmed with a larger scale clinical study at a later stage.

Potential Use of Seaweed Bioactive Compounds in Skincare-A Review

Modern lifestyles have developed new attention on appearance and personal care which attract a huge number of consumers towards cosmetic products. The demand for a skincare product with natural ingredients is rapidly increasing. Seaweeds are major resources for in-demand active compounds with a wide variety of applications. The use of seaweed-derived ingredients in cosmetic products has increased in recent years as many scientific studies have proved the potential skincare properties of seaweed bioactive compounds. This review emphasizes possible skincare properties of seaweed bioactive compounds. The review outlines the mechanism involved in skin problems including hyperpigmentation, premature skin aging, and acne in the first part while the second part focuses on the promising application of seaweeds in skin protection by highlighting the bioactive compound responsible for their bioactivity.

Unravelling the insulin-like growth factor I-mediated photoprotection of the skin

Chronic exposure of human skin to solar ultraviolet radiation (UVR) induces a range of biological reactions which may directly or indirectly lead to the development of skin cancer. In order to overcome these damaging effects of UVR and to reduce photodamage, the skin's endogenous defence system functions in concert with the various exogenous photoprotectors. Growth factors, particularly insulin-like growth factor-I (IGF-I), produced within the body as a result of cellular interaction in response to UVR demonstrates photoprotective properties in human skin. This review summarises the impact of UVR-induced photolesions on human skin, discusses various endogenous as well as exogenous approaches of photoprotection described to date and explains how IGF-I mediates UVR photoprotective responses at the cellular and mitochondrial level. Further, we describe the current interventions using growth factors and propose how the knowledge of the IGF-I photoprotection signalling cascades may direct the development of improved UVR protection and remedial strategies.

Formulation and evaluation of UV protective synbiotic skin care topical formulation

Objective: The objective of current study to investigate the photo protective potential of synbiotic formulation comprising of prebiotic and probiotic. Methods: Selenium nanoparticles were synthesized by chemical reduction method and investigated for physical-chemical properties including morphology, physical state, and free radical scavenging potential. Selection of probiotic biomass was made on the free radical scavenging potential by using NO assay. A topical w/o emulsion-based cream was prepared with screened ingredients to achieve a stable product with optimum free radical scavenging potential. The finished product was investigated for various mechanical, physiochemical, and viscoelastic characteristics. The SPF of optimized formulation was determined in UV-stimulated Wistar rat model. Results: Results indicated that the finished product shows nanoscale feature of elemental selenium. Cream comprising of potential free radical reagent (Selenium nanoparticles with IC₅₀ 50.097 µg/ml and biomass of Lactobacillus rhamnosus have IC₅₀ 61.63 µg/ml) exhibits a SPF of 29.77. Optimized skin care formulation has desirable physiochemical and viscoelastic properties required for topical application. Histopathology and Draize test indicated the finished product does not show any sign of skin toxicity. Conclusion: Results inferred that topical formulation combining the features of selenium and probiotic biomass offer an effective alternative for the treatment of sunburn complications.

Novel drug delivery systems for natural extracts: The case study of Vitis Vinifera extract-SiO2 nanocomposites

Ball Milling technique has been used to prepare for the first time Vitis Vinifera extract-silica nanocomposites (VV-SiO₂ NCs), which combine the pharmacological effects of the extract with the effectiveness of silica as drug delivery system and active component in the treatment of wound healing. Different contents (1.0, 9.0 and 33.0 wt%) of Vitis Vinifera ethanolic extract were loaded into the silica matrix by grinding the extract with fumed silica using a planetary mill apparatus. The effect of the starting mixture composition and milling time on the final products was examined. The efficiency of the milling process was studied by X-ray Powder Diffraction, Nuclear Magnetic Resonance, and Infrared Spectroscopy, indicating that the natural extract was not affected by the increasing of the milling time. The successful loading of the extract was demonstrated by Nitrogen adsorption/desorption measurements, which showed a decrease in the SSA and pore volume of the silica with the increasing of the extract amount. Morphology of the nanocomposites, investigated by Scanning Electron Microscopy, showed an increased agglomeration in the nanocomposites with the increment of the VV extract amount. Studies on the total phenol quantification and antioxidant activity of the natural extract before and after incorporation in the silica matrix were also carried out. The obtained results indicate that the milling process does not alter the VV extract components, which result to be embedded in the silica matrix. An increase of the antioxidant activity with the increment of the extract amount in the nanocomposites, up to values comparable to the pure VV extract, was also observed.

An Array of Bioactive Compounds From Australian Eucalypts and Their Relevance in Pancreatic Cancer Therapeutics

Pancreatic cancer (PC) is one of the most devastating human cancers, and despite the significant advances in the current therapeutic options, the overall survival rate for PC has remained static for the past 50 years. Plant-derived bioactive compounds play a vital role in cancer therapeutics by providing new lead compounds for future drug development. Therefore, the isolation, characterization, and identification of new bioactive compounds for the prevention and treatment of cancer continue to be an important aspect of natural product research. Many in vitro and in vivo studies published in the last few decades have established strong links between the phytochemical profile of eucalypts and anticancer activity. However, only a small number of these reports have attempted to demonstrate a relationship between the biological activity of eucalypt extracts and PC. This review focuses on potential anti-PC effects of an array of bioactive compounds present in various species of eucalypts. It also highlights the necessity for further in vitro and in vivo studies to develop a complete understanding of the potential this group of plants has for the development of potent and specific chemotherapeutic drugs for PC.

Perceived Age and Life Style. The Specific Contributions of Seven Factors Involved in Health and Beauty

OBJECTIVES

The skin is a dynamic, visible organ, showing the most obvious signs of aging. The mechanisms of extrinsic aging, most of them presented in this paper, are currently well known and also the only ones that can be counteracted. Therefore, the transition of this knowledge in the general population is of the most importance, in order to introduce healthy aging strategies, to prevent the development of chronic or malignant diseases and psychological burden related to old age.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

A thorough review of the literature has been performed in order to identify the main factors involved in skin health and aging.

OUTCOMES

This concept article represents a compilation of seven anti-ageing directions regarding major factors involved in health, aging and beauty, respectively sun, sugar, smoking, skin care, stress, sleep and second (the passage of time), easy to comprehend by the general public but sustained by a strong scientific documentation.

CONCLUSIONS

Despite its final destination, every quality concept has to pass through academic purgatory as, once accepted, it comes to respond to ever more educated society's demands in terms of anti-ageing.

Melanoma Chemoprevention: Current Status and Future Prospects

The incidence of skin cancers, both nonmelanoma and melanoma, is increasing in the United States. The ultraviolet radiation, mainly from sun, is considered the major cause for these neoplasms. While nonmelanoma skin cancers are far more numerous, melanoma remains the most challenging. This is because melanoma can become extremely aggressive and its incidence is increasing worldwide due to lack of effective early detection, as well as disease recurrence, following both surgery and chemotherapy. Therefore, in addition to better treatment options, newer means are required to prevent melanomas from developing. Chemoprevention is a reasonable cost-effective approach to prevent carcinogenesis by inhibiting the processes of tumor initiation, promotion and progression. Melanoma is a progressive disease, which makes it very suitable for chemopreventive interventions, by targeting the processes and molecular pathways involved in the progression of melanoma. This review discusses the roles of various chemopreventive agents such as NSAIDs, statins, vitamins and dietary agents in melanoma and highlights current advancements and our perspective on future of melanoma chemoprevention. Although considerable preclinical data suggest that melanoma may be prevented or delayed by a numerous chemopreventive agents, we realize there are insufficient clinical studies evaluating their efficacy and long-term safety for human use.

Development and evaluation of sunscreen creams containing morin-encapsulated nanoparticles for enhanced UV radiation protection and antioxidant activity

The objective of present work was to develop novel sunscreen creams containing polymeric nanoparticles (NPs) of morin. Polymeric NPs containing morin were prepared and optimized. The creams containing morin NPs were also prepared and evaluated. Optimized NPs exhibited particle size of 90.6 nm and zeta potential of −31 mV. The entrapment efficiency of morin, within the polymeric NPs, was found to be low (12.27%). Fourier transformed infrared spectroscopy and differential scanning calorimetry studies revealed no interaction between morin and excipients. Transmission electron microscopy and atomic force microscopy revealed that the NPs were spherical in shape with approximately 100 nm diameter. Optimized NPs showed excellent in vitro free radical scavenging activity. Skin permeation and deposition of morin from its NPs was higher than its plain form. Different sunscreen creams (SC1–SC8) were formulated by incorporating morin NPs along with nano zinc oxide and nano titanium dioxide. SC5 and SC8 creams showed excellent sun protection factor values (≈40). In vitro and in vivo skin permeation studies of sunscreen creams containing morin NPs indicated excellent deposition of morin within the skin. Morin NPs and optimized cream formulations (SC5 and SC8) did not exhibit cytotoxicity in Vero and HaCaT cells. Optimized sunscreen creams showed excellent dermal safety. SC5 and SC8 creams demonstrated exceptional in vivo antioxidant effect (estimation of catalase, superoxide dismutase, and glutathione) in UV radiation-exposed rats. The optimized sunscreen creams confirmed outstanding UV radiation protection as well as antioxidant properties.

In vitro techniques to assess the proficiency of skin care cosmetic formulations

Cosmetics comprising either natural or synthetic components are used almost regularly and universally in different forms to enhance the beauty. The utmost disclosure of human membrane to sunlight and environmental pollution results in the exhibition of free radical, that react with deoxyribonucleic acid, proteins and fatty acids, causation oxidative destruction dysfunction of the antioxidant system. In skin, the formation of reactive oxygen species leads to skin diseases, predominantly cutaneous malignancies, immunosuppression, wrinkles, aging, etc., The human organism fosters a barrier practice against the destructive action of free radicals, comprising mostly of vitamins, carotenoids and enzymes. Cosmetic products are the best option to reduce skin disorders such as hyper pigmentation, skin aging, skin wrinkling and rough skin texture, etc., Hence in this review, we conferred various in vitro methods that are used for the development of novel cosmetic formulation. There is an expanding fascinate employing in vitro techniques because they are less time consuming, more cost-effective and lessen the participation of human volunteers.

Dermatological consequences of photosensitization with an approach to treat them naturally

Photosensitization is a process in which the skin reacts to exposure to ultraviolet radiations. There are various associated dermatological consequences like photoxicity and photoallergic reactions which make the disease more complicated. There are various drugs which together with solar radiations worsen the situation of photosensitivity and hence termed as photosensitizers. The developments on the use of phytoconstituents from the herbal extract is the ardent need for fighting against the deleterious photosensitization reactions. This review attempts to highlight the problems of photosensitivity its pathological manifestation with the approach to treat them naturally with the help of skin rejuvenating herbs.

Matrix metalloproteinase enzymes and their naturally derived inhibitors: novel targets in photocarcinoma therapy

The continuous exposure of skin to ultraviolet radiations generates reactive oxygen species leading to photoaging in which degradation of dermal collagen and degeneration of elastic fibers occurs. Matrix metalloproteinase [MMP] enzymes are the proteolytic enzymes which have significant potentiality of cleaving extracellular matrix [ECM] against Ultraviolet [UV] radiation. The important MMPs are MMP1, MMP2 and MMP7 which promote skin cancer when irradiated by UV rays. In lieu of this, the investigation of MMPs and their inhibitors are constantly being studied for successive results. Recent researches have focused on some traditionally used bioactive moieties as natural matrix metalloproteinases inhibitors (MMPIs) and emphasized on the need of more extensive and specific studies on MMPIs, so that a good combination of natural or synthetic MMPIs with the conventional drugs can be evolved for cancer chemotherapy. In this review, we discuss the current view on the feasibility of MMPs as targets for therapeutic intervention in cancer. This review also summarizes the role of small molecular weight natural MMPIs and a clinical update of those natural MMPIs that are under clinical trial stage.

Lichenic extracts and metabolites as UV filters

Three lichen extracts and ten lichenic compounds have been screened for their photoprotective activities. The determination of their Sun Protection Factor (SPF) and Protection Factor-UVA (PF-UVA) values was done in vitro. Among them, a Lasallia pustulata extract and gyrophoric acid exhibited SPF values over 5, which is better than Homosalate (SPF≈4). Their photoprotective properties are only slightly modified after a 2-hours period of irradiation. Salazinic acid and L. pustulata presented characteristics of a UVA booster like the butyl-methoxydibenzoylmethane (Avobenzone) (PF-UVA≈2 vs. 2.8 for Avobenzone). Salazinic acid was a better anion superoxide scavenger than ascorbic acid and none of them exhibited a photosensitizing cytotoxicity by exposing them on HaCaT cells to UVA radiations (photo-irritancy factor PIF<5).

Oxidative stress and skin cancer: an overview

Skin is the largest body organ that serves as an important environmental interface providing a protective envelope that is crucial for homeostasis. On the other hand, it is a major target for toxic insult by a broad spectrum of physical and chemical agents that are capable of altering its structure and function. There are a large number of dietary contaminants and drugs can manifest their toxicity in skin. These environmental toxicants or their metabolites are inherent oxidants and/or directly or indirectly drive the production of a variety of reactive oxidants also known as reactive oxygen species. These are short-lived entities that are continuously generated at low levels during the course of normal aerobic metabolism. These are believed to activate proliferative and cell survival signaling that can alter apoptotic pathways that may be involved in the pathogenesis of a number of skin disorders. The skin possesses an array of antioxidant defense mechanisms that interact with toxicants to obviate their deleterious effect. The "antioxidant power" of a food is an expression of its capability both to defend the human organism from the action of the free radicals and to prevent degenerative disorders. Plants like olive trees have their own built-in protection against the oxidative damage of the sun, and these built-in protectors function as cell protectors in our own body. Although many antioxidants have shown substantive efficacy in cell culture systems and in animal models of oxidant injury, unequivocal confirmation of their beneficial effects in human populations has proven elusive.

Potential of herbs in skin protection from ultraviolet radiation

Herbs have been used in medicines and cosmetics from centuries. Their potential to treat different skin diseases, to adorn and improve the skin appearance is well-known. As ultraviolet (UV) radiation can cause sunburns, wrinkles, lower immunity against infections, premature aging, and cancer, there is permanent need for protection from UV radiation and prevention from their side effects. Herbs and herbal preparations have a high potential due to their antioxidant activity, primarily. Antioxidants such as vitamins (vitamin C, vitamin E), flavonoids, and phenolic acids play the main role in fighting against free radical species that are the main cause of numerous negative skin changes. Although isolated plant compounds have a high potential in protection of the skin, whole herbs extracts showed better potential due to their complex composition. Many studies showed that green and black tea (polyphenols) ameliorate adverse skin reactions following UV exposure. The gel from aloe is believed to stimulate skin and assist in new cell growth. Spectrophotometer testing indicates that as a concentrated extract of Krameria triandra it absorbs 25 to 30% of the amount of UV radiation typically absorbed by octyl methoxycinnamate. Sesame oil resists 30% of UV rays, while coconut, peanut, olive, and cottonseed oils block out about 20%. A "sclerojuglonic" compound which is forming from naphthoquinone and keratin is the reaction product that provides UV protection. Traditional use of plant in medication or beautification is the basis for researches and making new trends in cosmetics. This review covers all essential aspects of potential of herbs as radioprotective agents and its future prospects.