Assessment of In vitro Sun Protection Factor of Calendula Officinalis L. (Asteraceae) Essential Oil Formulation

Optimization of folic acid Span 60-organogel to enhance its in vitro and in vivo photoprotection: a comparative study

Aim: The acute effects of UV sunlight exposure were inflammation, erythema, and swelling. The present work aims to formulate a novel organogel preparation that can achieve efficient topical folic acid (FA) delivery to cure inflammation from acute exposure to UV sunlight. Methods: The organogels were prepared by direct melting and stirring on a magnetic stirrer. Photostability and in vivo photoprotection were investigated. Results: Optimized organogel showed more sustained release, more photostability, more effective antioxidant activity, higher in vitro sun protection factor, and greater extent of skin photoprotection from natural sunlight. Conclusion: The present results suggest optimized FA organogel as a promising formulation for effective delivery of FA to the skin maximizing it's in vitro and in vivo performance.

Applications of Essential Oils and Plant Extracts in Different Industries

Essential oils (EOs) and plant extracts are sources of beneficial chemical compounds that have potential applications in medicine, food, cosmetics, and the agriculture industry. Plant medicines were the only option for preventing and treating mankind's diseases for centuries. Therefore, plant products are fundamental sources for producing natural drugs. The extraction of the EOs is the first important step in preparing these compounds. Modern extraction methods are effective in the efficient development of these compounds. Moreover, the compounds extracted from plants have natural antimicrobial activity against many spoilage and disease-causing bacteria. Also, the use of plant compounds in cosmetics and hygiene products, in addition to their high marketability, has been helpful for many beauty problems. On the other hand, the agricultural industry has recently shifted more from conventional production systems to authenticated organic production systems, as consumers prefer products without any pesticide and herbicide residues, and certified organic products command higher prices. EOs and plant extracts can be utilized as ingredients in plant antipathogens, biopesticides, and bioherbicides for the agricultural sector. Considering the need and the importance of using EOs and plant extracts in pharmaceutical and other industries, this review paper outlines the different aspects of the applications of these compounds in various sectors.

Marigold Metabolites: Diversity and Separation Methods of Calendula Genus Phytochemicals from 1891 to 2022

Marigold (Calendula), an important asteraceous genus, has a history of many centuries of therapeutic use in traditional and officinal medicines all over the world. The scientific study of Calendula metabolites was initiated at the end of the 18th century and has been successfully performed for more than a century. The result is an investigation of five species (i.e., C. officinalis, C. arvensis, C. suffruticosa, C. stellata, and C. tripterocarpa) and the discovery of 656 metabolites (i.e., mono-, sesqui-, di-, and triterpenes, phenols, coumarins, hydroxycinnamates, flavonoids, fatty acids, carbohydrates, etc.), which are discussed in this review. The identified compounds were analyzed by various separation techniques as gas chromatography and liquid chromatography which are summarized here. Thus, the genus Calendula is still a high-demand plant-based medicine and a valuable bioactive agent, and research on it will continue for a long time.

Bioassay-guided Fractionation of Clove Buds Extract Identifies Eugenol as Potent Melanogenic Inducer in Melanoma Cells

Clove, a dried flower buds of Syzygium aromaticum, is used in traditional medicine, for culinary purposes, and in essential oil production. In our preliminary screening of crude drugs used in Japanese Kampo formulas, a methanol (MeOH) extract of clove buds was found to exhibit a melanin induction. To date, the effects of clove buds or their constituents on the activation of melanogenesis remain unclear. Thus, this study aimed to isolate active compounds from the MeOH extract of clove buds associated with melanin synthesis in melanoma cells and to investigate the molecular mechanism involved. The MeOH extract of clove buds increased melanin content in murine B16-F1 melanoma cells. To identify the active compounds responsible for melanin induction, the MeOH extract was suspended in water and successively partitioned using hexane, ethyl acetate (EtOAc), and n-butanol (n-BuOH). Comparative analysis revealed that the EtOAc fraction induced melanin synthesis. Bioassay-guided separation of the EtOAc fraction isolated three compounds including eugenol. The analysis of structure-activity relationships of eugenol and structurally related compounds indicated that eugenol was the most potent melanin inducer among the 11 compounds, and that a hydroxyl group at C-1 and a methoxy group at C-2 may contribute to melanin induction. Eugenol induced melanin synthesis in human HMV-II melanoma cells as well as in B16-F1 cells. Further analysis indicated that eugenol may invoke intracellular tyrosinase activity and expression of tyrosinase, tyrosinaserelated protein (TRP)-1, TRP-2, and microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF). These results suggest that eugenol enhances melanin synthesis by upregulating the expression of MITF and subsequent expression of melanogenic enzymes, and that it may be a potent therapeutic agent for hypopigmentation.

Photoprotective Agents Obtained from Aromatic Plants Grown in Colombia: Total Phenolic Content, Antioxidant Activity, and Assessment of Cytotoxic Potential in Cancer Cell Lines of Cymbopogon flexuosus L. and Tagetes lucida Cav. Essential Oils

Photoprotective agents obtained from plants provide benefits for the health of the skin. The present study aims to assess the total phenolic content (TPC) and in vitro UV-protective properties of twelve essential oils (EOs) from plants grown in Colombia and to evaluate the antioxidant and cytotoxic potential of two species identified as photoprotective potentials: Cymbopogon flexuosus and Tagetes lucida. The composition of EOs was studied by GC/MS. The cytotoxicity of both EOs was examined using an MTT assay, and an H2-DCFDA probe was employed to estimate the intracellular production of ROS in HepG2 and Calu-1 cells. Major constituents (≥10%) were neral, geranial, geranyl acetate in C. flexuosus and estragole in T. lucida. The TPC for C. flexuosus and T. lucida EOs were ≥10 mg GAE/g of byproduct. Both EOs showed photoprotective properties (SPFin vitro: 13−14), and long-wavelength UVA protection (λc > 370 nm). HepG2 and Calu-1 cells exposed to C. flexuosus exhibited antiproliferative activity (˂50%) at 125 µg/mL, while T. lucida was at 250 and 500 µg/mL. The IC50 values for C. flexuosus were 75 and 100 µg/mL in HepG2 and Calu-1 cells, respectively, whereas those for T. lucida were >250 µg/mL. These EOs achieved significant inhibitory effects (between 15.6 and 40.4%) against H2O2-induced oxidative stress. The results showed that EO compounds recognized as antioxidants could counteract the effects elicited by H2O2.

Concentration of Antioxidant Compounds from Calendula officinalis through Sustainable Supercritical Technologies, and Computational Study of Their Permeability in Skin for Cosmetic Use

The growing interest in the cosmetic industry in using compounds of natural and sustainable origin that are safe for humans is encouraging the development of processes that can satisfy these needs. Chlorogenic acid (CHA), caffeic acid (CAF) and ferulic acid (FA) are three compounds widely used within the cosmetic industry due to their functionalities as antioxidants, collagen modifiers or even as radiation protectors. In this work, two advanced separation techniques with supercritical CO2 are used to obtain these three compounds from Calendula officinalis, and these are then evaluated using a computational skin permeability model. This model is encompassed by the COSMO-RS model, the calculations of which make it possible to study the behaviour of the compounds in the epidermis. The results show that both CAF and FA are retained in the stratum corneum, while CHA manages to penetrate to the stratum spinosum. These compounds were concentrated by antisolvent fractionation with super-critical CO2 using a Response Surface Methodology to study the effect of pressure and CO2 flow rate. CHA, CAF and FA were completely retained in the precipitation vessel, with concentrations between 40% and 70% greater than in the original extract. The conditions predicted that the optimal overall yield and enrichment achieved would be 153 bar and 42 g/min.

[Developement and biological activity evaluation of clove essential oil based emulsion]

INTRODUCTION

Clove essential oil is isolated from the dried flower buds of Syzygium aromaticum from which many biological activities have been reported. The aim of this work was to develop a cream for topical use containing clove essential oil (HE) as an active ingredient and to test its biological activity.

MATERIAL AND METHODS

Clove EO was extracted by hydrodistillation, its chemical composition was analysed by Gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (CG-SM). The EO was then incorporated into a cream where its stability was studied. The antifungal activity was evaluated by disc-diffusion method. The in vivo anti-inflammatory activity of EO and the cream was assessed y by carrageenan-induced rat paw edema model.

RESULTS

Clove EO contains two major constituents: eugenol (69.14%) and β-Caryophyllene (18.8%). The cream had good organoleptic and physicochemical properties. Both EO and the cream showed growth inhibitory effects on the two studied dermatophytes strains.The incorporation of EO in the cream provided a good anti-inflammatory activity, similar to the reference drug.

CONCLUSION

the developed creme was stable, had good anti-inflammatory properties and moderate antifungal activity. Long-term stability studies and in vivo tests would lead to the use of clove essential oil in the development of new pharmaceutical forms.

Essential Oils and Their Individual Components in Cosmetic Products

The current consumer demands together with the international regulations have pushed the cosmetic industry to seek new active ingredients from natural renewable sources for manufacturing more eco-sustainability and safe products, with botanical extract being an almost unlimited source of these new actives. Essential oils (EOs) emerge as very common natural ingredients in cosmetics and toiletries as a result of both their odorous character for the design and manufacturing of fragrances and perfumes, and the many beneficial properties of their individual components (EOCs), e.g., anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial and antioxidant properties, and, nowadays, the cosmetic industry includes EOs or different mixtures of their individual components (EOCs), either as active ingredients or as preservatives, in various product ranges (e.g., moisturizers, lotions and cleanser in skin care cosmetics; conditioners, masks or antidandruff products in hair care products; lipsticks, or fragrances in perfumery). However, the unique chemical profile of each individual essential oil is associated with different benefits, and hence it is difficult to generalize their potential applications in cosmetics and toiletries, which often require the effort of formulators in seeking suitable mixtures of EOs or EOCs for obtaining specific benefits in the final products. This work presents an updated review of the available literature related to the most recent advances in the application of EOs and EOCs in the manufacturing of cosmetic products. Furthermore, some specific aspects related to the safety of EOs and EOCs in cosmetics will be discussed. It is expected that the information contained in this comprehensive review can be exploited by formulators in the design and optimization of cosmetic formulations containing botanical extracts.

Plant Polyphenols: Natural and Potent UV-Protective Agents for the Prevention and Treatment of Skin Disorders

Nowadays, destructive and immunosuppressive effects from long-term exposure to UV radiation have been fully investigated and documented in the literature. UV radiation is known as the main cause of skin aging and carcinogenesis. Hence, skin protection against anti-oxidative and immunosuppressive processes is highly in demand. Now, plant polyphenols have been found as a versatile and natural tool for the prevention and treatment of various skin diseases. The presence of a large number of hydroxyl groups in the cyclic structure of polyphenols has induced valuable biological activities. Among them, their UV protective activity has attracted lots of attention due to promising efficacy and simple instruction to use.

Essential Oils as Natural Sources of Fragrance Compounds for Cosmetics and Cosmeceuticals

Fragrance is an integral part of cosmetic products and is often regarded as an overriding factor in the selection of cosmetics among consumers. Fragrances also play a considerable role in masking undesirable smells arising from fatty acids, oils and surfactants that are commonly used in cosmetic formulations. Essential oils are vital assets in the cosmetic industry, as along with imparting pleasant aromas in different products, they are able to act as preservatives and active agents and, simultaneously, offer various benefits to the skin. Moreover, the stimulating demand for natural ingredients has contributed massively to a renewed interest in cosmetic and wellness industries in plant derivatives, especially essential oils. This has led popular cosmetic companies to endorse natural fragrances and opt for minimally processed natural ingredients, given the potentially adverse health risks associated with artificial fragrance chemicals, which are major elements of cosmetics. Among the high-valued essential oils used as fragrances are citrus, lavender, eucalyptus, tea tree and other floral oils, among others, while linalool, geraniol, limonene, citronellol, and citral are much-appreciated fragrance components used in different cosmetics. Thus, this review aimed to highlight the enormous versatility of essential oils as significant sources of natural fragrances in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Moreover, a special focus will be laid on the different aspects related to essential oils such as their sources, market demand, chemistry, fragrance classification, aroma profile, authenticity and safety.

Exploring the photo protective potential of solid lipid nanoparticle-based sunscreen cream containing Aloe vera

Nowadays, the sunscreen creams are composed of mostly synthetic chemicals and other organic compounds which were found to enter into the blood stream on topical application raising concerns in the scientific community. The scientific community has now shifted their attention to herbal formulations due to toxicity of these synthetic molecules. Aloe vera is a xerophitic plant having excellent anti-oxidant properties. The permeation effect and drug stability of the drug candidate can be significantly enhanced by formulating it into solid lipid nanoparticles (SLN). The main objectives of the study were to formulate and evaluate Aloe vera-loaded SLN sunscreen cream and to determine its photoprotective potential. The Aloe vera-loaded SLNs were formulated by microemulsification technique. The developed SLNs were studied for its entrapment efficiency, poly dispersity index (PDI), zeta potential, particle size, and other characterization techniques. Finally, the optimized SLNs were incorporated into the sunscreen cream and evaluated for its spreadability, viscosity, extrudability, drug content, in vitro drug release, ex vivo permeation, determination of sun protection factor (SPF), skin irritation test, and accelerated stability studies. The in vitro SPF was found out to be 16.9 ± 2.44 and the in vivo SPF observed to be approximately 14.81 ± 3.81, respectively. Stability studies were performed under accelerated conditions and no appreciable changes in the parameters were noticed. The solid lipid nanoparticles of Aloe vera were incorporated into a cream and the SPF of the resultant sunscreen cream was found to be on par with the sunscreens that were currently available in the market.

Anti-aging Effects of Select Botanicals: Scientific Evidence and Current Trends

As skin ages, there is a decline in physiologic function. These changes are induced by both intrinsic (chronologic) and extrinsic (predominately UV-induced) factors. Botanicals offer potential benefits to combat some of the signs of aging. Here, we review select botanicals and the scientific evidence behind their anti-aging claims. Botanicals may offer anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, moisturizing, UV-protective, and other effects. A multitude of botanicals are listed as ingredients in popular cosmetics and cosmeceuticals, but only a select few are discussed here. These were chosen based on the availability of scientific data, personal interest of the authors, and perceived “popularity” of current cosmetic and cosmeceutical products. The botanicals reviewed here include argan oil, coconut oil, crocin, feverfew, green tea, marigold, pomegranate, and soy.

Screening of acute and sub-chronic dermal toxicity of Calendula officinalis L essential oil

The objective of the study is to access the safety of Calendula essential oil by studying acute and sub-chronic dermal toxicity. The dermal toxicities of Calendula essential oil were evaluated in accordance with OECD guidelines number 402 and 411 respectively. The animals were exposed to Calendula officinalis (CO) essential oil dose of 20 mL/kg body weight for acute dermal toxicity, whereas for dermal sub-chronic toxicity study, rats were exposed to CO oil 2.5, 5 and 10 mL/kg body weight, respectively, for 7 times in a week for 90 days. The parameters studies included CNS stimulation, depression, hematological parameters (RBC, WBC, Hb, Lymphocyte % etc), biochemical parameters (total protein, albumin, total bilirubin, ALP, AST, etc), relative organ weight, necropsy and histopathology. In toxicity studies, all animals exhibited normal behavior without any change in hematology, blood biochemistry, necroscopical and histopathology. The no observed effect level (NOEL) and no observed adverse effect level (NOAEL) of CO oil were 2.5 and 10 mg/kg/day, respectively. CO oil is under the herbal medicinal product according to the European Medicines Agency with the claim of an LD₅₀ value of 20 mL/kg body weight. The result indicates that CO essential oil did not produce any significant toxic effects.

Potential use of kraft and organosolv lignins as a natural additive for healthcare products

The growing interest in substituting synthetic products coming from non-renewable sources with products from biomass has focused attention on the lignin biopolymer. Its high availability, low price and properties make the development of new and valuable uses for lignin interesting, thus improving the economic and environmental aspects of the biomass conversion. To achieve this objective, the potential use of industrial kraft and organosolv lignins as antioxidants, antimicrobials and sunscreen products has been evaluated. The results of a detailed antibacterial and antifungal study demonstrated the high potential of kraft lignins against a variety of foodborne and human pathogenic microorganisms. Moreover, both organosolv and kraft lignins presented an effective protection factor (SPF values from 10–20), demonstrating their effectiveness as natural additives for the sun lotion market. In addition, lignin samples presented high antioxidant capacity compared to butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT), one common commercial antioxidant industrially used. Therefore, the development of innovative applications of lignins as a commodity for the chemical, pharmaceutical or cosmetic industries could expand their possible uses in the market giving new added values to lignin.

New opportunities for industrial and lab-scale isolated lignin as an antioxidant, antimicrobial and sunscreen product.

An Anthocyanin-Rich Extract of Acai (Euterpe precatoria Mart.) Increases Stress Resistance and Retards Aging-Related Markers in Caenorhabditis elegans

Acai fruits (Euterpe precatoria) are rich in antioxidant anthocyanins. Acai consumption is believed to have many health benefits; however, relevant detailed scientific investigations are limited. The current study aimed to investigate an anthocyanin-rich extract from E. precatoria fruits (AE) with regard to its antioxidant and antiaging properties using the model organism Caenorhabditis elegans. AE can protect the worms against oxidative stress and can ameliorate accumulation of reactive oxygen species in vivo. The expression of stress-response genes, such as sod-3::GFP, was upregulated while hsp-16::GFP was down-regulated after AE treatment. Studies with DAF-16/FOXO mutants indicated that some of the antioxidant effects are mediated by this transcription factor. AE can modulate the development of age-related markers, such as pharyngeal pumping. Despite the apparent antioxidant activity, no lifespan-prolonging effect was observed.

Protective Effect of Chitin Urocanate Nanofibers against Ultraviolet Radiation

Urocanic acid is a major ultraviolet (UV)-absorbing chromophore. Chitins are highly crystalline structures that are found predominantly in crustacean shells. Alpha-chitin consists of microfibers that contain nanofibrils embedded in a protein matrix. Acid hydrolysis is a common method used to prepare chitin nanofibrils (NFs). We typically obtain NFs by hydrolyzing chitin with acetic acid. However, in the present study, we used urocanic acid to prepare urocanic acid chitin NFs (UNFs) and examined its protective effect against UVB radiation. Hos: HR-1 mice coated with UNFs were UVB irradiated (302 nm, 150 mJ/cm²), and these mice showed markedly lower UVB radiation-induced cutaneous erythema than the control. Additionally, sunburn cells were rarely detected in the epidermis of UNFs-coated mice after UVB irradiation. Although the difference was not as significant as UNFs, the number of sunburn cells in mice treated with acetic acid chitin nanofibrils (ANFs) tended to be lower than in control mice. These results demonstrate that ANFs have a protective effect against UVB and suggest that the anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects of NFs influence the protective effect of ANFs against UVB radiation. The combination of NFs with other substances that possess UV-protective effects, such as urocanic acid, may provide an enhanced protective effect against UVB radiation.

Physical chemistry evaluation of stability, spreadability, in vitro antioxidant, and photo-protective capacities of topical formulations containing Calendula officinalis L. leaf extract

Calendula is used widely in cosmetic formulations that present phenolic compounds in their chemical constitution. The objective of our research was to develop and evaluate the stability of topical formulations containing 5% hydro-ethanolic extract of calendula leaves, including spreadability, and in vitro photo-protective, and antioxidant capacity. To evaluate the stability, we used organoleptic characteristics, pH, and viscosity parameters. Antioxidant capacity was measured by the DPPH (2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl) method, and the photo-protective capacity by SPF spectrophotometric measure. All formulations were stable. The calendula extract formulations in gel and cream showed no significant variations in pH, and the cream formulations presented lower viscosity variations than gel formulations. The spreadability of the gel formulations was superior to those in cream. The formulations also presented good antioxidant capacities and an FPS of around 1.75. In accordance with the results, the formulations can be used as antioxidants, but considering the low SPF obtained, calendula cannot be considered as a stand-alone sunscreen, yet may well be tested in future studies towards verifying enhancement of synthetic sunscreens.