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Simon JD, Reddy-Best KL. Art, Media, and Fashion: Negotiating Queerness and Catholicism Through Depictions of Saint Sebastian, From the 15 th Century to the Present. J Homosex 2024; 71:691-721. [PMID: 36250980 DOI: 10.1080/00918369.2022.2132442] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [What about the content of this article? (0)] [Affiliation(s)] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 06/16/2023]
Abstract
Queerness and Catholicism have historically been at odds with one another. The Church's condemnation of queer individuals was pervasive globally for centuries, yet one way queerness and Catholicism converge is via Saint Sebastian depictions. The purpose of this research is to examine how and why Sebastian, a Catholic saint, has come to serve as an icon for the queer community as well as how dress has been used in depicting shifting representations of the Saint from the 15th to 21st centuries. Drawing upon the historic method, we critically analyze the meanings present in imagery of Saint Sebastian. Through our study of portrayals of the Saint, several key themes have emerged. Several of these contemporary artworks incorporated written language that reifies sainthood and associated suffering. Furthermore, many artworks' overall composition surrounding Saint Sebastian reinforced sainthood through contextual visual elements. Ambivalence in depictions of Saint Sebastian's fleshy body was apparent, with an emphasis on depicting Sebastian within the context of his executions. A gap in time periods and differing artwork styles was observed, with many of our examples being either from the Renaissance or post 1960s. Finally, many of the contemporary artworks surveyed included overt signifiers of queerness, with minimal references to subtle queerness.
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Affiliation(s)
- Joshua D Simon
- Department of History, Western Michigan University, Kalamazoo, Michigan, USA
| | - Kelly L Reddy-Best
- Apparel, Merchandising, and Design Program, Iowa State University, Ames, Iowa, USA
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Ogle JP, Johnson AN, Reddy-Best KL, Harmon J, Morris K, Kittersong P. A qualitative exploration of positive body image experiences among nonbinary individuals. Body Image 2023; 47:101632. [PMID: 37774425 DOI: 10.1016/j.bodyim.2023.101632] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [What about the content of this article? (0)] [Affiliation(s)] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Submit a Manuscript] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 06/08/2023] [Revised: 09/14/2023] [Accepted: 09/15/2023] [Indexed: 10/01/2023]
Abstract
One group whose positive body image experiences remain under-explored is individuals who identify as nonbinary, gender fluid, and/or genderqueer (including other nonbinary identities). Thus, we sought to answer the questions: What does it look like to have a positive body image for a nonbinary person? and How do nonbinary persons form and maintain a positive body image? To answer these questions, we conducted in-depth, semi-structured interviews with 15 nonbinary individuals who were assessed as having positive body image using the Body Appreciation Scale-2 (Tylka & Wood-Barcalow, 2015a). Data were analyzed using reflexive thematic analysis. Four themes were identified as characterizing the core features of positive body image among nonbinary persons: body appreciation, body- and self-acceptance, bodily appearance embodied their authentic self, and holding flexible ideals for ways of being. Six themes were identified as related to on-going processes that explain how body image is formed and maintained among nonbinary persons: reframing negative body image information, staging resistance, experiencing representation, receiving and giving social support, practicing self-compassion and self-care, and using dress to create a satisfying presentation of self. In keeping with the tenets of queer theory, findings reflected how gender identity set a context for participants' positive body image experiences.
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Affiliation(s)
- Jennifer Paff Ogle
- Colorado State University, Department of Design & Merchandising, Mail Delivery Code 1574, Fort Collins, CO 80523-1574, USA.
| | - Ashlie N Johnson
- Linfield University, Department of Psychology, Pioneer Hall, Portland, OR 97230, USA
| | - Kelly L Reddy-Best
- Iowa State University, Department of Apparel, Events, and Hospitality Management, 31 McKay Hall, Ames, IA 50011-1178, USA
| | - Jennifer Harmon
- University of Wyoming, Department of Family and Consumer Sciences, AGC 3010, Laramie, WY 82071, USA
| | - Kristen Morris
- Colorado State University, Department of Design & Merchandising, Mail Delivery Code 1574, Fort Collins, CO 80523-1574, USA
| | - Piper Kittersong
- Colorado State University, Department of Design & Merchandising, Mail Delivery Code 1574, Fort Collins, CO 80523-1574, USA
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Chauhan V, Reddy-Best KL, Sagar M, Sharma A, Lamba K. Apparel Consumption and Embodied Experiences of Gay Men and Transgender Women in India: Variety and Ambivalence, Fit Issues, LGBT-Fashion Brands, and Affordability. J Homosex 2021; 68:1444-1470. [PMID: 31833820 DOI: 10.1080/00918369.2019.1698914] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [What about the content of this article? (0)] [Affiliation(s)] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 06/10/2023]
Abstract
The purpose of this study was to explore Indian LGBT individuals' apparel consumption practices and embodied experiences related to fashion, style, and the body. Specifically, our research questions were these: What are Indian LGBT individuals' experiences like when navigating the fashion system, and how do they experience their own embodiment in what they wear and how they appear? A qualitative, phenomenological approach was used to answer the research questions. Three gay men and seven transgender women responded to a solicitation for participation and completed a semistructured interview. In our data analysis, we established four themes that relate to two larger areas of emphasis: embodiment and the fashion system. Regarding embodiment, participants related many experiences with their bodies, including (a) variety and ambivalence with bodily practices and (b) difficulty with clothing fit. The other themes centered around knowledge and desires related to the fashion system. Within the fashion system, participants expressed (a) fashion brand awareness and a need for LGBT-centered brands and (b) affordability as a barrier to clothing purchase. Overall, the essence of fashioning one's body as a transgender woman or gay man in India is that, while there has been a significant amount of gender oppression in India, these participants were interested in and desired gender-neutral or LGBT-focused brands.
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Affiliation(s)
- Vishakha Chauhan
- Department of Management Studies, Indian Institute of Technology, New Delhi, Inda
| | - Kelly L Reddy-Best
- Department of Apparel, Events, and Hospitality Management, Iowa State University, Ames, Iowa, USA
| | - Mahim Sagar
- Department of Management Studies, Indian Institute of Technology, New Delhi, Inda
| | - Arbuda Sharma
- Xavier School of Management, XLRI, Jamshedpur, India
| | - Karan Lamba
- Department of Management Studies, Indian Institute of Technology, New Delhi, Inda
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Reddy-Best KL, Choi E. "Male Hair Cannot Extend Below Plane of the Shoulder" and "No Cross Dressing": Critical Queer Analysis of High School Dress Codes in the United States. J Homosex 2020; 67:1290-1340. [PMID: 30901294 DOI: 10.1080/00918369.2019.1585730] [Citation(s) in RCA: 1] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.3] [Reference Citation Analysis] [What about the content of this article? (0)] [Affiliation(s)] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 06/09/2023]
Abstract
In this study, we questioned how high school dress codes outlined in official handbooks were written or presented in regard to the gender binary, either/or perspective. We critically analyzed how or if they allowed for flexibility in expression of gender and sexual identity and if they supported, encouraged, or affirmed a variety of expressions, in particular transgender and gender non-conforming expressions, throughout the text or images. The content analysis method was used to analyze 735 handbooks from the 2016 to 2017 school year. Three themes emerged from the data: (1) support of fluid gender expression, yet not overt support; (2) passive marginalization of gender non-conforming or transgender identities or expressions; and (3) active marginalization of gender non-conforming or transgender identities or expressions. The "LGBTQ+ Dress Code Analysis Tool" was developed for policy makers to use to analyze their dress codes.
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Affiliation(s)
- Kelly L Reddy-Best
- Department of Apparel, Events, and Hospitality Management, Iowa State University , Ames, Iowa, USA
| | - Eunji Choi
- Department of Apparel, Events, and Hospitality Management, Iowa State University , Ames, Iowa, USA
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Reddy-Best KL, Jones KB. Is this what a lesbian looks like? Lesbian fashion and the fashionable lesbian in the United States press, 1960s to 2010s. J Lesbian Stud 2019; 24:159-171. [PMID: 31692410 DOI: 10.1080/10894160.2019.1685816] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [What about the content of this article? (0)] [Affiliation(s)] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 06/10/2023]
Abstract
We explored articulations of lesbian styles, fashions, and ways of dressing in mainstream fashion and media outlets within the United States during the twentieth and twenty-first centuries. Based upon our findings, we propose that there was trending ambivalence and multiple assemblages across space and time where the mainstream media did not necessarily perpetuate a single stereotypical or essentialist way of conceptualizing fashionable lesbians or lesbian fashions. However, we also noted across time a divide between representations of celebrity lesbians and the contemporary lived experience of ordinary lesbians. Though the press acknowledged this divide on occasion, they also established, circulated, and reinforced this difference. According to the press, while lesbians have been 'chic' since the 1990s-whether they embraced a butch or femme esthetic-the best way to be lesbian was to be rich, white, and fashionably dressed.
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Affiliation(s)
- Kelly L Reddy-Best
- Department of Apparel, Events, Hospitality Management, Iowa State University, Ames, Iowa, USA
| | - Katie Baker Jones
- Department of Fashion, Dress & Merchandising, West Virginia University, Morgantown, West Virginia, USA
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Abstract
The purpose of this study was to explore LGBTQ women's experiences with unwritten or formal dress codes at work. I asked: What are LGBTQ women's experiences in the workplace with appearance management, and what are LGBTQ women's experiences navigating the written and unwritten dress codes in the workplace? To answer the research question, interviews were conducted with 24 self-identifying LGBTQ women. Six key themes emerged from the data. Themes included (1) expressed sexual identity in appearance, (2) unwritten dress codes in work environments did not always allow for expression of sexual identity in appearance, (3) motivations for pressure or desire to conceal expression of sexual identity in appearance at work, (4) negotiations of revealing or concealing sexual identity in appearance in the workplace impacted levels of comfort and confidence, (5) verbal and nonverbal negative experiences related to appearance at work, and (6) received compliments about appearance at work.
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Affiliation(s)
- Kelly L Reddy-Best
- a Department of Apparel, Events, and Hospitality Management , Iowa State University , Ames , Iowa , USA
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