The Combined Anti-Aging Effect of Hydrolyzed Collagen Oligopeptides and Exosomes Derived from Human Umbilical Cord Mesenchymal Stem Cells on Human Skin Fibroblasts

Stem cell-derived exosomes (SC-Exos) are used as a source of regenerative medicine, but certain limitations hinder their uses. The effect of hydrolyzed collagen oligopeptides (HCOPs), a functional ingredient of SC-Exos is not widely known to the general public. We herein evaluated the combined anti-aging effects of HCOPs and exosomes derived from human umbilical cord mesenchymal stem cells (HucMSC-Exos) using a senescence model established on human skin fibroblasts (HSFs). This study discovered that cells treated with HucMSC-Exos + HCOPs enhanced their proliferative and migratory capabilities; reduced both reactive oxygen species production and senescence-associated β-galactosidase activity; augmented type I and type III collagen expression; attenuated the expression of matrix-degrading metalloproteinases (MMP-1, MMP-3, and MMP-9), interleukin 1 beta (IL-1β), and tumor necrosis factor-alpha (TNF-α); and decreased the expression of p16, p21, and p53 as compared with the cells treated with HucMSC-Exos or HCOPs alone. These results suggest a possible strategy for enhancing the skin anti-aging ability of HucMSC-Exos with HCOPs.

Synergistic effect of Panax ginseng, Polygonatum cyrtonema, Epiphyllum oxypetalum, Nelumbo nucifera and Osmanthus fragrans extracts on skin aging regulation. From in silico predictions to in vitro outcome

Intrinsic and extrinsic aging affect the health of human skin. Extracellular matrix protein degradation, DNA damage and oxidative stress are known to disturb skin architecture and skin homeostasis leading to skin aging. Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM) delivers a large amount of knowledge regarding the phytotherapeutic power of diverse plants. Panax ginseng, Polygonatum cyrtonema, Epiphyllum oxypetalum, Nelumbo nucifera and Osmanthus fragrans are five plants used in TCM for their protective effect. In this study, several combinations of these TCM plants were explored: first, an in silico analysis was performed to predict their potential to target biological activities in the skin and then, some predictions were verified with in vitro studies to underline the synergistic effect of plant extracts. The results showed a stronger anti-aging activity for the combination with the five plants compared to the combination with Panax ginseng, Polygonatum cyrtonema, Epiphyllum oxypetalum and, compared to Panax ginseng alone.

Skin Anti-Aging Efficacy of Enzyme-Treated Supercritical Caviar Extract: A Randomized, Double-Blind, Placebo-Controlled Clinical Trial

Oxidative stress in the skin, induced by an unhealthy lifestyle and exposure to UVB radiation, leads to skin aging, including reduced elasticity, formation of wrinkles, moisture loss, and inflammation. In a previous study, we revealed the photoaging effects of enzyme-treated caviar extract (CV) by regulating collagen and hyaluronic acid synthase, melanogenesis, anti-oxidant mechanisms, and inflammation in a UVB irradiation-induced mice model. HPLC and MALDI-TOF were performed to determine the effect of enzyme treatment on the free amino acid contents and peptide molecular weight in supercritical caviar extract. As results of the analysis, CV is mainly composed of low-molecular-weight peptides consisting of leucine, tyrosine, and phenylalanine. Based on our in vitro and in vivo study, we conducted a clinical trial to assess the skin anti-aging efficacy of CV. In this randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial, we measured indicators related to elasticity, wrinkles, and skin hydration at 4 and 8 weeks after consumption of CV. The subjects were categorized into caviar, combination, and placebo groups. After 4 weeks, skin hydration, dermal hydration, and transepidermal water loss all showed significant improvement. Furthermore, after 8 weeks, skin elasticity indexes-R2 (total elasticity), R5 (net elasticity), and R7 (ratio of elastic recovery to total deformation)-exhibited significant increases. Improvement in wrinkle indicators (Rmax, Ra, and Rz) and the whitening indicator melanin pigment was also observed. This is the first report showing that CV has significant skin anti-aging efficacy on human skin. In conclusion, our study suggests that CV can be used as skin anti-aging nutraceuticals through positive effects on skin condition in clinical trials.

Aging Skin and Natural Bioactives that Impede Cutaneous Aging: A Narrative Review

The skin aging which entails modifications in the entire skin and skin support system is caused as a result of complex blend of intrinsic and extrinsic factors. The main objective of this review is to provide critical insights into the effect of the aging determinants (intrinsic and extrinsic) on aging skin and to focus on a few classes of natural bioactives that were reported to counteract symptoms of cutaneous aging, pose potential, and beneficial health effect on aging skin supported with relevant scientific evidence. The narrative review of this cutaneous antiaging study incorporating the literature findings was retrieved from the search of computerized databases PubMed and Scopus, hand searches, and authoritative books. The antiaging skin care approach of using bioactives are basically nutritional hormetins, available from our natural heritage, identified as potent free radical scavengers, antioxidants, moisturizers, cell repairing agents, and ultraviolet protectives which have started to seek considerable attention among researchers and consumers due to the undesirable effect of chemical-based constituents on human health and environment. With the booming antiaging strategies, beauty has become the prime factor in considering one's health and overall "wellness". As promoting healthy aging is essential, the objective of aesthetic dermatology should shift from cosmetic interventions to the betterment of quality of life of aging society. The paper also discusses on certain artificial learning/machine-based algorithms, useful in screening of bioactive ingredients, helpful in developing of more tailored formulations. This narrative overview on skin antiaging natural bioactives and artificial learning-based bioactive screening approaches contributes for the improvement in dermatological drug discovery, in the development of novel targeted lead compounds and accelerates aging research and pharmaceutical research.

Comparative assessment of Cucurbita moschata seed polypeptides toward the protection of human skin cells against oxidative stress-induced aging

Skin aging has attracted much attention among the current aging population of society. The seeds of Cucurbita moschata possess a variety of potential biological activities as a healthy diet. However, limited information is available on the skin-antiaging properties of C. moschata seed protein and its hydrolysate. Herein, we developed a novel strategy for protecting human skin cells against oxidative stress-induced aging by C. moschata seed polypeptides. C. moschata seed polypeptides (CSPs) with different molecular weight distributions were successfully prepared by controlling the protease hydrolysis time. The proportions of < 1,000 Da polypeptides of P-1, P-2, and P-3 were 0.11, 20.26, and 92.72%, respectively. P-3 contained the highest proportion of polypeptides of size < 1,000 Da, which was observed to promote human skin fibroblast (HSF) growth by MTT assay, cell cycle, and morphology. P-3 has an efficient repair effect on the H₂O₂-induced aging of HSF cells. To explain this phenomenon, cell lifespan, intracellular ROS level, superoxide dismutase (SOD) activity, and glutathione (GSH) content were investigated to reveal the interactions between P-3 and antiaging. With the increase in P-3 concentration, the ROS level significantly decreased, and the SOD activity and GSH content significantly increased in H₂O₂-induced HSF cells. These findings indicated that CSPs have the potential to inhibit skin aging, which could be advantageous in the health industry for providing personal care.

Recent Advances in Herbal-Derived Products with Skin Anti-Aging Properties and Cosmetic Applications

Although aesthetic benefits are a desirable effect of the treatment of skin aging, it is also important in controlling several skin diseases, mainly in aged people. The development of new dermocosmetics has rapidly increased due to consumers' demand for non-invasive products with lower adverse effects than those currently available on the market. Natural compounds of plant origin and herbal-derived formulations have been popularized due to their various safe active products, which act through different mechanisms of action on several signaling pathways for skin aging. Based on this, the aim of the review was to identify the recent advances in herbal-derived product research, including herbal formulations and isolated compounds with skin anti-aging properties. The studies evaluated the biological effects of herbal-derived products in in vitro, ex vivo, and in vivo studies, highlighting the effects that were reported in clinical trials with available pharmacodynamics data that support their protective effects to treat, prevent, or control human skin aging. Thus, it was possible to identify that gallic and ferulic acids and herbal formulations containing Thymus vulgaris, Panax ginseng, Triticum aestivum, or Andrographis paniculata are the most promising natural products for the development of new dermocosmetics with skin anti-aging properties.

Liposomes Encapsulating Morin: Investigation of Physicochemical Properties, Dermal Absorption Improvement and Anti-Aging Activity in PM-Induced Keratinocytes

Recently, a global market for anti-aging skin care using botanicals has been noticeably developing. Morin, 3,5,7,2',4'-pentahydroxyflavone, is a polyphenol with many pharmacological properties including antioxidant, anti-inflammation and photoprotection. However, poor aqueous solubility of morin restricts its application in pharmaceuticals. The present study aimed to encapsulate morin into liposomal vesicles to improve its water solubility and skin penetration, and further investigated its ROS inhibition and anti-aging activity in HaCaT keratinocytes induced by particulate matters (PMs). Our data presented that morin was a strong DPPH^• radical scavenger. Morin displayed a remarkable ROS inhibitory ability and protected keratinocytes against PMs by downregulating matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) expression via suppressing p-ERK and p-p38 in the MAPK pathway. Moreover, water solubility of liposomal morin (LM) prepared by the thin film hydration method was significantly better than free form of morin due to particle size reduction of LM. Our results also demonstrated that deformable liposomal vesicles were achieved for increasing dermal absorption. Additionally, LM (morin:lecinolws-50:tween-80:PF-68, 1:2.5:2.5:5) was able to effectively reduce generation of ROS, inactivate p-ERK, p-p38 and MMP-1 in HaCaT cells exposed to PM. In conclusion, our findings suggested that LM would be a bright candidate for various topical anti-aging and anti-pollution products.

Effect of α-Lipoic Acid on the Development of Human Skin Equivalents Using a Pumpless Skin-on-a-Chip Model

Owing to the prohibition of cosmetic animal testing, various attempts have recently been made using skin-on-a-chip (SOC) technology as a replacement for animal testing. Previously, we reported the development of a pumpless SOC capable of drug testing with a simple drive using the principle that the medium flows along the channel by gravity when the chip is tilted using a microfluidic channel. In this study, using pumpless SOC, instead of drug testing at the single-cell level, we evaluated the efficacy of α-lipoic acid (ALA), which is known as an anti-aging substance in skin equivalents, for skin tissue and epidermal structure formation. The expression of proteins and changes in genotyping were compared and evaluated. Hematoxylin and eosin staining for histological analysis showed a difference in the activity of fibroblasts in the dermis layer with respect to the presence or absence of ALA. We observed that the epidermis layer became increasingly prominent as the culture period was extended by treatment with 10 μM ALA. The expression of epidermal structural proteins of filaggrin, involucrin, keratin 10, and collagen IV increased because of the effect of ALA. Changes in the epidermis layer were noticeable after the ALA treatment. As a result of aging, damage to the skin-barrier function and structural integrity is reduced, indicating that ALA has an anti-aging effect. We performed a gene analysis of filaggrin, involucrin, keratin 10, integrin, and collagen I genes in ALA-treated human skin equivalents, which indicated an increase in filaggrin gene expression after ALA treatment. These results indicate that pumpless SOC can be used as an in vitro skin model similar to human skin, protein and gene expression can be analyzed, and it can be used for functional drug tests of cosmetic materials in the future. This technology is expected to contribute to the development of skin disease models.

Coenzyme Q10 Efficacy Test for Human Skin Equivalents Using a Pumpless Skin-On-A-Chip System

A human skin equivalent (HSE) composed of the epidermis and dermis is cultured using a pumpless skin-on-a-chip system to supply cultures the desired flow rate using gravity flow without a pump or an external tube connection. Coenzyme Q10 efficacy is tested by adjusting its concentration, as it is known to have anti-aging and antioxidant effects in culture solutions. The relationship between the contraction rate of a full-thickness human skin equivalent and secreted transforming growth factor (TGF) β-1 is analyzed via enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA). Following hematoxylin and eosin (H&E) staining, an image of the skin equivalent is analyzed to measure the epidermal layer’s thickness. The cell density and differentiation of the dermis layer are investigated. Gene and protein expression in the dermal and epidermal layers are quantitatively analyzed using quantitative real time polymerase chain reaction (qPCR) and immunohistochemical staining. As the coenzyme Q10 treatment concentration increased, the number of cells per unit area and the thickness of the epidermal layer increased, the expression level of filaggrin increased, and the contraction rate of full-thickness HSE was proportional to the amount of TGF β-1 secreted.

Food-derived bioactive compounds with anti-aging potential for nutricosmetic and cosmeceutical products

Besides providing essential nutrients for humans, food contains bioactive compounds that exert diverse biological activities such as anti-microbial, anti-cancerogenic, anti-viral, anti-inflammatory and antioxidant. The cosmetic industry is interested in natural bioactive compounds for their use in nutricosmetic and cosmeceutical products. These products aimed to reduce skin aging, inflammation or provide photoprotection against UV radiation. As a result, nutricosmetics and cosmeceuticals are becoming innovative self-care products in the beauty market. These products contain phytochemicals as active compounds obtained from fruits, vegetables, legumes, medicinal herbs and plants with anti-aging potential. This review summarizes the information within the last 5 years related to bioactive compounds present in fruits, vegetables, herbs and spices commonly used for human consumption. Their antioxidant and biological potential for modulating molecular markers involved in the aging process, as well as their mechanism of action. Diverse natural foods and their byproducts could be used as a source of bioactive compounds for developing cosmeceutical and nutricosmetic products.