Safety Assessment of Ethers and Esters of Ascorbic Acid as Used in Cosmetics

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) reviewed the safety of 7 ethers and esters of ascorbic acid, which collectively function as antioxidants, skin-conditioning agents, skin protectants, fragrance ingredients, and skin bleaching agents in cosmetic products. The Panel reviewed relevant data relating to the safety of these ingredients, and concluded that the ethers and esters of ascorbic acid are safe in the present practices of use and concentration, as described in this safety assessment.

Safety Assessment of Carbonate Salts as Used in Cosmetics

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) assessed the safety of 6 carbonate salts which function as absorbents, bulking agents, opacifying agents, pH adjusters, buffering agents, abrasives, and oral care agents in cosmetic products. The Panel reviewed relevant data relating to the safety of these ingredients, and concluded that these carbonate salts are safe in the present practices of use and concentration in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating.

Safety Assessment of Rosa canina-derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmetics

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) reviewed the safety of 12 Rosa canina-derived ingredients, which are reported to function as skin conditioning agents, fragrance ingredients, cosmetic astringents, anti-acne agents, abrasives, humectants, and exfoliants in cosmetic products. Because final product formulations may contain multiple botanicals, each containing the same constituents of concern, formulators are advised to be aware of these constituents and to avoid reaching cumulative levels that may be hazardous to consumers. The Panel reviewed relevant data relating to the safety of these ingredients and concluded that these ingredients are safe in the present practices of use and concentration described in this safety assessment when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.

Safety Assessment of Bovine Milk Proteins and Protein Derivatives as Used in Cosmetics

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) reviewed the safety of 16 bovine milk proteins and protein-derived ingredients, which function mainly as skin and hair conditioning agents in personal care products. The Panel reviewed relevant data provided in this safety assessment, and concluded that these ingredients are safe in the present practices of use and concentration.

Safety Assessment of Hydrofluorocarbon 152a as Used in Cosmetics

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) reviewed the safety of Hydrofluorocarbon 152a, which functions as a propellant in personal care products. The Panel reviewed relevant data provided in this safety assessment, and concluded that Hydrofluorocarbon 152a is safe in the present practices of use and concentration described in this safety assessment.

Safety Assessment of 1-Hydroxyethyl 4,5-Diamino Pyrazole Sulfate as Used in Cosmetics

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) reviewed the safety of 1-Hydroxyethyl 4,5-Diamino Pyrazole Sulfate, which functions as an oxidative hair dye ingredient. The Panel reviewed relevant data provided in this safety assessment, and concluded that 1-Hydroxyethyl 4,5-Diamino Pyrazole Sulfate is safe in the present practices of use and concentration in oxidative hair dye formulations.

Amended Safety Assessment of Butyl Polyoxyalkylene Ethers as Used in Cosmetics

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) assessed the safety of 46 butyl polyoxyalkylene ethers that share a common structural motif, namely a butyl chain (4 carbon alkyl chain) bound to a polyoxyalkylene (PPG, PEG, or both); 23 of these ethers were previously reviewed by the Panel, and 23 are reviewed herein for the first time. Most of the butyl polyoxyalkylene ethers have several functions in cosmetics, but the most common reported functions include hair conditioning agent and skin conditioning agent, and many reportedly function as solvents. Upon review of new data, including frequency and concentration of use, and data from previous Panel reports and on read-across analogs, the Panel concluded that these ingredients are safe in the present practices of use and concentration in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating.

Safety Assessment of Citrus Flower- and Leaf-Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmetics

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel (Panel) assessed the safety of 33 Citrus flower- and leaf-derived ingredients, which are most frequently reported to function in cosmetics as fragrances and/or skin-conditioning agents. The Panel reviewed the available data to determine the safety of these ingredients. Because final product formulations may contain multiple botanicals, each containing similar constituents of concern, formulators are advised to be aware of these constituents and to avoid reaching levels that may be hazardous to consumers. With Citrus flower- and leaf-derived ingredients, the Panel was concerned about the presence of the hydroperoxides of limonene and linalool in cosmetics. Industry should use good manufacturing practices to limit impurities that could be present in botanical ingredients. The Panel concluded that these ingredients are safe in the present practices of use and concentration when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.

Safety Assessment of Inorganic Hydroxides as Used in Cosmetics

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) reviewed the safety of inorganic hydroxides, which function in cosmetics primarily as pH adjusters. Representatives from the cosmetic industry have indicated these ingredients are used in depilating and hair waving/straightening formulations to raise pH values. The Panel considered relevant data related to these ingredients. The Panel concluded that these inorganic hydroxides are safe in hair straighteners and depilatories under conditions of recommended use; users should minimize skin contact. These ingredients are safe for all other present practices of use and concentration described in this safety assessment when formulated to be nonirritating.

Safety Assessment of Keratin and Keratin-Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmetics

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) reviewed the safety of 8 keratin-derived ingredients, which function mainly as skin and hair conditioning agents in personal care products. The Panel reviewed relevant data provided in this safety assessment and concluded that the 8 keratin-derived ingredients are safe in the present practices of use and concentration described in this safety assessment.

Safety Assessment of Saccharide Esters as Used in Cosmetics

This is a safety assessment of 40 saccharide ester ingredients as used in cosmetics. The saccharide esters are reported to function in cosmetics as emollients, skin-conditioning agents, fragrance ingredients, and emulsion stabilizers. The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) reviewed the relevant data for these ingredients. The Panel concluded that the saccharide esters are safe in cosmetics in the present practices of use and concentrations described in this safety assessment.

Amended Safety Assessment of Acid Violet 43 as Used in Cosmetics

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) reopened the safety assessment of Acid Violet 43, a cosmetic ingredient that is an anthraquinone dye reported to function in cosmetics as a colorant. This colorant has the same chemical structure as Ext. D&C Violet No. 2, which is a certified colorant; however, Acid Violet 43 is not a certified color and it could have impurities that are not allowed in the certified color. The Panel reviewed relevant new data related to this ingredient and concluded that Acid Violet 43 is safe in the present practices of use and concentration for use in hair dye formulations. This conclusion supersedes the previous conclusion for Acid Violet 43 that included impurity specifications indicated for the certified color.

Preferentially expressed antigen in melanoma and p16 expression in acral melanocytic neoplasms

Acral melanocytic neoplasms often pose diagnostic difficulty. Preferentially expressed antigen in melanoma (PRAME) expression and loss of p16 expression have diagnostic utility in melanocytic tumors. We examined PRAME and p16 expression in 30 acral melanocytic neoplasms (n = 11 nevi; n = 2 dysplastic nevi; n = 7 Spitz nevi; n = 10 acral melanomas). PRAME was scored as % positive nuclei: negative = 0%; 1% to 25% = 1+; 25% to 50% = 2+; 50% to 75% = 3+, or positive: 75% to 100% = 4+. p16 expression was defined as retained (homogeneous or checkerboard) or lost (complete or partial/regionally). PRAME expression was negative in all benign, dysplastic, and Spitz nevi. Conversely, all acral melanomas were diffusely (4+) positive for PRAME expression. p16 expression was retained in all benign acral nevi (8/11 homogeneous, 3/11 checkerboard), completely lost in one dysplastic nevus, and retained in all acral Spitz nevi (3/7 homogeneous, 4/7 checkerboard). p16 was retained in five of 10 acral melanomas (3/10 homogeneous; 2/10 checkerboard), and negative in five of 10 acral melanomas (absent in 3/10, partially lost in 2/10). Our data suggest that 4+ PRAME expression is highly sensitive and specific in the setting of acral melanomas and is a more predictive diagnostic tool compared with p16 immunohistochemistry.

Safety Assessment of PEGylated Alkyl Glycerides as Used in Cosmetics

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) assessed the safety of 60 PEGylated alkyl glycerides. PEGylated alkyl glycerides are mono-, di-, and/or triglycerides that have been modified with ethylene glycol repeat units (in the starting material form as epoxide). Most of the PEGylated alkyl glycerides are reported to function as skin-conditioning agents or surfactants. The Panel reviewed the available animal and clinical data as well as data from the 1999 report for the 5 polyethylene glycol (PEG) glyceryl cocoates and the 2012 report of PEGylated oils, to determine the safety of these ingredients. The Panel concluded these ingredients are safe in the current practices of use and concentration when formulated to be nonirritating; this conclusion supersedes the 1999 conclusion issued on 5 PEG glyceryl cocoate ingredients.

Development and qualification of a machine learning algorithm for automated hair counting

OBJECTIVE

Determining the amount of hair on the scalp has always been an important metric of patient satisfaction for hair growth and hair retention technologies. While simple in concept, this measurement is a difficult, resource intensive task for the dermatologist and the research scientist. Specifically, counting and measuring hair in phototrichogram images is very time consuming and labour intensive. Due to cost, often only a fraction of available images is manually analysed. There is a need for an automated method that can significantly increase speed and throughput while reducing the cost of counting and measuring hair in phototrichogram images.

METHODS

Recent advances in machine learning and deep convolutional neural networks (deep learning) have led to a revolution in the analysis of image, video, speech, text and other sensor data. Image diagnostics have seen remarkable improvements with completely automated methods outperforming both human experts and human-engineered analysis methods. Deep learning methods can also provide speed and cost benefits. To enable use of a deep learning, we created a data set of 288 manually annotated phototrichogram images with marked location and length of each hair (the training dataset). We designed a custom neural network architecture and custom image processing algorithms to best utilize the available training data and to maximize performance for hair counting and length measurement. The performance of the algorithm was qualified by comparing hair count and length measurements to an independent ground truth method, the semi-manual Canfield's Hair Metrix method.

RESULTS

Leveraging deep neural networks, we have developed capability to apply machine learning to reduce the time needed to acquire data from phototrichograms of patients' scalp from months to seconds. Our algorithm enables fast and fully automated hair counting and length measurement. The algorithm shows high agreement with human manually assisted analysis (ground truth).

CONCLUSIONS

We have trained and deployed an algorithm utilizing this technology and have demonstrated the reproducibility, accuracy and speed of this algorithm that, once deployed, requires little to no recurring cost or manual intervention for its operation. The method allows fast analysis of large number of images, reducing study cost and significantly reducing study analysis time.

Scalp application of antioxidants improves scalp condition and reduces hair shedding in a 24-week randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical trial

OBJECTIVE

Increasing hair fullness is a global unmet need for many men and women. An approach to the problem is to decrease hair fall or shedding by reducing scalp stratum corneum oxidation and barrier damage to increase hair retention. This study evaluated a combination of functional antioxidants and barrier-enhancing cosmetic ingredients to improve scalp condition thereby enabling stronger hair anchorage and longer retention.

METHODS

Male and female subjects with normal scalp condition and self-perceived hair thinning participated in a 24-week, double-blind, placebo-controlled, randomized clinical study assessing either a regimen of treatment shampoo and leave-on treatment containing functional antioxidant and barrier-enhancing agents or an identical placebo chassis shampoo control. The functional ingredients were piroctone olamine, zinc pyrithione, zinc carbonate, niacinamide, panthenol and caffeine. At baseline and after 8, 16 and 24 weeks of product use, several measurements were taken: hair shedding, total hair count (by phototrichogram), hair samples, TEWL and evaluation of biomarkers of scalp and hair conditions. Subjects also completed self-assessment questionnaires.

RESULTS

Statistically significant effects for functional ingredient-containing treatment regimen versus a placebo control shampoo formulation were observed for reduced hair shedding, increased total hair count, reduced TEWL and improvement in scalp biomarker values. Subjects also noticed these improvements assessed via self-assessment questionnaires.

CONCLUSIONS

These results establish that the use of functional antioxidant and barrier-enhancing agents to further improve scalp condition can enable a reduction in hair shedding and thus an increase in perceived hair fullness. The underlying improvements in scalp condition suggest the hair benefits were achieved as a result of improved scalp skin barrier and scalp condition leading to a viable preventative approach for hair thinning.

Scalp application of the antioxidant piroctone olamine reduces hair shedding in an 8-week randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical study

OBJECTIVE

Increasing scalp hair fullness is a global unmet consumer need. An approach to decrease hair shedding by reducing scalp stratum corneum oxidation via a combination of antioxidant and barrier-enhancing technologies has been previously demonstrated. The purpose of this study was to test the effectiveness of the individual antioxidant piroctone olamine in two different product forms (shampoo or leave-on product) for activity to improve hair retention.

METHODS

Female subjects with self-perceived hair thinning participated in an 8-week, double-blind, placebo-controlled, randomized clinical study to evaluate either a piroctone olamine (PO) containing shampoo or a PO containing leave on treatment, each relative to their corresponding placebo formulation Too many periods. Results for phototrichograms, TEWL, and biomarker analysis of scalp condition for the shampoo treatments are discussed. Phototrichogram results are shared for the assessment of the leave on treatment.

RESULTS

Statistically significant increases in hair amount were observed by phototrichogram after use of both PO-containing products versus placebo formulations. The PO shampoo treatment also significantly decreased oxidative stress on the hair and scalp, and improved scalp condition as assessed by TEWL and scalp biomarker values.

CONCLUSION

These results illustrate the effectiveness of a cosmetic antioxidant to improve scalp condition thereby improving hair retention. The observed improvements in scalp condition are consistent with previous reports with other antioxidant technologies and suggest that the hair retention effect was achieved by preventing oxidative damage to the scalp.

Safety Assessment of Citrus Fruit-Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmetics

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) assessed the safety of 80 Citrus fruit-derived ingredients, which are most frequently reported to function in cosmetics as fragrances and/or skin-conditioning agents. The Panel reviewed the available data to determine the safety of these ingredients. Because final product formulations may contain multiple botanicals, each containing similar constituents of concern, formulators are advised to be aware of these constituents and to avoid reaching levels that may be hazardous to consumers. Industry should use good manufacturing practices to limit impurities that could be present in botanical ingredients. The Panel concluded that these ingredients are safe for use in both rinse-off and leave-on cosmetic products when formulated to be non-sensitizing and non-irritating, provided that leave-on products do not contain more than 0.0015% (15 ppm) 5-methoxypsoralen (5-MOP).

Safety Assessment of Citrus Plant- and Seed-Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmetics

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) assessed the safety of 30 Citrus plant- and seed-derived ingredients, which are most frequently reported to function in cosmetics as fragrances and/or skin conditioning agents. Because final product formulations may contain multiple botanicals, each containing similar constituents of concern, formulators are advised to be aware of these constituents and to avoid reaching levels that may be hazardous to consumers. With Citrus plant- and seed-derived ingredients, the Panel was concerned about the presence of the hydroperoxides of limonene and linalool in cosmetics. Industry should use good manufacturing practices to limit impurities. The Panel reviewed the available data presented and concluded that 18 of these ingredients are safe in the present practices of use and concentration when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing. The data for the remaining 12 ingredients are insufficient to determine safety.

Safety Assessment of Citrus Peel-Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmetics

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) assessed the safety of 47 Citrus peel-derived ingredients, which are most frequently reported to function in cosmetics as skin conditioning agents. The Panel reviewed the available data to determine the safety of these ingredients. Because final product formulations may contain multiple botanical ingredients, each containing similar constituents of concern, formulators are advised to be aware of these constituents and to avoid reaching levels that may be hazardous to consumers. Industry should use good manufacturing practices to limit impurities that could be present in botanical ingredients. The Panel concluded that Citrus peel-derived ingredients are safe in the present practices of use and concentration in both rinse-off and leave-on cosmetic products when formulated to be non-sensitizing and non-irritating, provided that leave-on products do not contain more than 0.0015% (15 ppm) 5-methoxypsoralen (5-MOP).

Safety Assessment of Phosphoric Acid and Its Salts as Used in Cosmetics

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) assessed the safety of Phosphoric Acid and its salts (31 ingredients), which are reported to function as buffering agents, corrosion inhibitors, chelating agents, and pH adjusters in cosmetic products. The Panel reviewed data relating to the safety of these ingredients and concluded that Phosphoric Acid and its salts are safe in the present practices of use and concentration in cosmetics when formulated to be nonirritating.

Amended Safety Assessment of Methylisothiazolinone as Used in Cosmetics

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) reassessed the safety of Methylisothiazolinone, which functions as a preservative in cosmetics. The Panel reviewed relevant animal and human data provided in this safety assessment, and data from the previously published safety assessments of Methylisothiazolinone, and concluded that Methylisothiazolinone is safe for use in rinse-off cosmetic products at concentrations up to 100 ppm (ie, 0.01%) and safe in leave-on cosmetic products when they are formulated to be nonsensitizing, which may be determined based on a quantitative risk assessment or similar methodology.

Final Amended Safety Assessment of Sodium Sulfate as Used in Cosmetics

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) reopened the safety assessment of Sodium Sulfate, a cosmetic ingredient that is an inorganic salt reported to function in cosmetics as a viscosity increasing agent-aqueous. The Panel reviewed the relevant new data for the ingredient, including frequency of use and concentration of use, and considered data from the previous Panel assessment. The Panel concluded that Sodium Sulfate is safe in cosmetics in the present practices of use and concentrations described in this safety assessment when formulated to be nonirritating.

Amended Safety Assessment of Methylchloroisothiazolinone and Methylisothiazolinone as Used in Cosmetics

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) reassessed the safety of the mixture Methylchloroisothiazolinone (MCI)/Methylisothiazolinone (MI), which functions as a preservative in cosmetic products. The Panel reviewed relevant animal and human data provided in this safety assessment, and data from the previously published safety assessment of this mixture, and concluded that MCI/MI is safe in cosmetics when formulated to be nonsensitizing, based on the results of a quantitative risk assessment or similar methodology; however, at no point should concentrations exceed 7.5 ppm in leave-on products or 15 ppm in rinse-off products.