Nanotechnology for the development of new cosmetic formulations

Nanotechnology in cosmetics pros and cons

The field of nanotechnology is being greatly explored by cosmetic industries in order to improve the efficacy of cosmetic products. The increased use of nanomaterials in the field of cosmetics can have two sides as health-related benefits and detrimental effects. This review mainly seeks the pros and cons of the use of nanomaterials in cosmetics along with some examples of nanomaterials that are widely used in cosmetic industries along with different types of nanotechnology-based cosmetic products. The benefits of nanomaterials in cosmetic formulations are huge. Moreover the study regarding the toxic effects on the health also equally matters. This review gives a brief outline of the advantages as well as disadvantages of nanotechnology in cosmetics.

Therapeutic nanostructures and nanotoxicity

Nanotechnology, with its continuous advancement, leads to the development of nanoscale-level therapeutics to mitigate many complex diseases. This results in the emergence of numerous novel nanomaterials and its composite products into the market such as liposome, polymeric nanoparticles, dendrimers, and nanostructured lipid carrier. However, their application is always determined by a high benefit to risk ratio. Very few research have been done on the toxicity assessment of nanoparticles in the biological system; therefore, the limited knowledge regarding the toxicity profile of nanotherapeutics is available leading to the ignorance of its side effects. Nanoparticles can distribute in the whole body through translocating in the bloodstream by crossing membrane barriers efficiently and shows effect in organs and tissues at cellular and molecular levels. The interaction of nanoparticle with cell may consequences into nanotoxicity. The narrow size distribution, large surface area to mass ratio and surface properties of nanoparticle are significantly associated with nanotoxicity. Nanoparticles can enter into the tissue and cell by invading the membranes and cause cellular injury as well as toxicity. Therefore, the exploration of mechanisms of nanotoxicity has prime importance now a day. The toxicity assessment should be an integral part of the development of nanotherapeutics using various toxicity evaluation models. This review has focused on the exploration of different nanostructures for therapeutic delivery system along with its physicochemical characteristics responsible for adverse effects on human biology, various toxicity evaluation models, and environmental and regulatory hurdles.

Cyclodextrin/surfactant inclusion complexes: An integrated view of their thermodynamic and structural properties

Cyclodextrins (CDs) play an important role in self-assembly systems of amphiphiles. The structure of CDs provides distinguished physicochemical properties, including the ability to form host-guest complexes. The complexation affects the properties of guest molecules and can produce supramolecular aggregates with desirable characteristics for fundamental and practical applications. Surfactants are particularly attractive host molecules due to their wide variety, availability, responsiveness to different stimuli, and high relevance in different fields, e.g. medical, cosmetic, pharmaceutical, and food industries. The tendency of organization in higher-order supramolecular aggregates arises the interest in applying such versatile complexes in the development of novel materials. In this review, we provide a comprehensive overview of the thermodynamics aspects of surfactants and CDs inclusion complexes formation in aqueous environment, emphasizing the assessment of the interactions, thermodynamic driving forces, and structural aspects. Also, the most common analytical techniques used to gather deep insight into the aspects of CDs complexes are discussed and the perspectives for the surfactant-cyclodextrin complexes are pointed out.

Immobilization strategies of photolyases: Challenges and perspectives for DNA repairing application

Photolyases are enzymes that repair DNA damage caused by solar radiation. Due to their photorepair potential, photolyases added in topical creams and used in medical treatments has allowed to reverse skin damage and prevent the development of different diseases, including actinic keratosis, premature photoaging and cancer. For this reason, research has been oriented to the study of new photolyases performing in extreme environments, where high doses of UV radiation may be a key factor for these enzymes to have perfected their photorepair potential. Generally, the extracted enzymes are first encapsulated and then added to the topical creams to increase their stability. However, other well consolidated immobilization methods are interesting strategies to be studied that may improve the biocatalyst performance. This review aims to go through the different Antarctic organisms that have exhibited photoreactivation activity, explaining the main mechanisms of photolyase DNA photorepair. The challenges of immobilizing these enzymes on porous and nanostructured supports is also discussed. The comparison of the most reported immobilization methods with respect to the structure of photolyases show that both covalent and ionic immobilization methods produced an increase in their stability. Moreover, the use of nanosized materials as photolyase support would permit the incorporation of the biocatalyst into the target cell, which is a technological requirement that photolyase based biocatalysts must fulfill.

Towards safe and sustainable innovation in nanotechnology: State-of-play for smart nanomaterials

The European Green Deal, the European Commission's new Action Plan for a Circular Economy, the new European Industrial Strategy and the Chemicals Strategy for Sustainability launched in October 2020 are ambitious plans to achieve a sustainable, fair and inclusive European Union's economy. In line with the United Nations Sustainable Development Goals 2030, these policies require that any new material or product should be not only functional and cost-effective but also safe and sustainable to ensure compliance with regulation and acceptance by consumers. Nanotechnology is one of the technologies that could enable such a green growth. This paper focuses on advanced nanomaterials that actively respond to external stimuli, also known as 'smart nanomaterials', and which are already on the market or in the research and development phase for non-medical applications such as in agriculture, food, food packaging and cosmetics. A review shows that smart nanomaterials and enabled products may present new challenges for safety and sustainability assessment due to their complexity and dynamic behaviour. Moreover, existing regulatory frameworks, in particular in the European Union, are probably not fully prepared to address them. What is missing today is a systematic and comprehensive approach that allows for considering sustainability aspects hand in hand with safety considerations very early on at the material design stage. We call on innovators, scientists and authorities to further develop and promote the 'Safe- and Sustainable-by-Design' concept in nanotechnology and propose some initiatives to go into this direction.

Formation of aggregates, icosahedral structures and percolation clusters of fullerenes in lipids bilayers: The key role of lipid saturation

Carbon nanoparticles (CNPs) are attractive materials for a great number of applications but there are serious concerns regarding their influence on health and environment. Here, our focus is on the behavior of fullerenes in lipid bilayers with varying lipid saturations, chain lengths and fullerene concentrations using coarse-grained molecular dynamics (CG-MD) simulations. Our findings show that the lipid saturation level is a key factor in determining how fullerenes behave and where the fullerenes are located inside a lipid bilayer. In saturated and monounsaturated bilayers fullerenes aggregated and formed clusters with some of them showing icosahedral structures. In polyunsaturated lipid bilayers, no such structures were observed: In polyunsaturated lipid bilayers at high fullerene concentrations, connected percolation-like networks of fullerenes spanning the whole lateral area emerged at the bilayer center. In other systems only separate isolated aggregates were observed. The effects of fullerenes on lipid bilayers depend strongly on fullerene aggregation. When fullerenes aggregate, their interactions with the lipid tails change.

Nanoparticle Toxicology

Nanoparticles from natural and anthropogenic sources are abundant in the environment, thus human exposure to nanoparticles is inevitable. Due to this constant exposure, it is critically important to understand the potential acute and chronic adverse effects that nanoparticles may cause to humans. In this review, we explore and highlight the current state of nanotoxicology research with a focus on mechanistic understanding of nanoparticle toxicity at organ, tissue, cell, and biomolecular levels. We discuss nanotoxicity mechanisms, including generation of reactive oxygen species, nanoparticle disintegration, modulation of cell signaling pathways, protein corona formation, and poly(ethylene glycol)-mediated immunogenicity. We conclude with a perspective on potential approaches to advance current understanding of nanoparticle toxicity. Such improved understanding may lead to mitigation strategies that could enable safe application of nanoparticles in humans. Advances in nanotoxicity research will ultimately inform efforts to establish standardized regulatory frameworks with the goal of fully exploiting the potential of nanotechnology while minimizing harm to humans.

New Relevant Descriptor of Linear QNAR Models for Toxicity Assessment of Silver Nanoparticles

The use of silver nanoparticles (NPs) in medical, industrial and agricultural fields is becoming more widespread every year. This leads to an increasing number of experimental toxicological and microbiological studies of silver NPs aimed at establishing the risk-benefit ratio for their application. The following key parameters affecting the biological activity of silver dispersions are traditionally taken into consideration: mean diameter of NPs, surface potential of NPs and equilibrium concentration of Ag+. These characteristics are mainly predetermined by the chemical nature of the capping agent used for stabilization. However, the extent to which they influence the biological activity and the toxicity of silver NPs varies greatly. In this work, dispersions of silver NPs stabilized with a wide array of substances of different chemical nature were used for quantitative evaluation of whether the various measurable properties of silver NPs fit as descriptors of linear QNAR (quantitative nanostructure-activity relationship) models for silver NP toxicity evaluation with respect to a model eukaryotic microorganism-Saccharomyces cerevisiae yeast cells. It was shown that among the factors that determine silver NP toxicity, the charge of particles, their colloidal stability and the ability to generate Ag+ ions carry more importance than the descriptors related to the particle size. A significant synergistic effect between the ζ-potential and the colloidal stability of silver NPs on their toxicity was also discovered. Following this, a new descriptor has been proposed for the integral characterization of the silver dispersion colloidal stability. According to the obtained data, it can be considered applicable for building QNAR models of higher efficacy. The validity testing of the proposed model for theoretical prediction of silver NP toxicity using a wide range of living organisms has shown that this new descriptor correlates with toxicity much better compared to most traditionally used descriptors. Consequently, it seems promising in terms of being used not only in situations involving the rather narrow array of the objects tested, but also for the construction of silver NP toxicity models with respect to other living organisms.

Favorable effect of creams with skimmed donkey milk encapsulated in nanoliposomes on skin physiology

The use of donkey milk has a long history in external dermal application for cosmetic and medical purposes. The encapsulation of different drugs into nanoliposomes and nutrients may have many benefits for the delivery of the targeted substance. The aim of the present study is to test creams with nanoliposomes encapsulated with skimmed donkey milk, reported in our registered patent, compared with effect of the placebo cream and the untreated skin. To investigate the effect of formulated cream, we have measured the electrical capacitance, transepidermal water loss and the skin pH value. The study included 15 healthy volunteers (11 women and 4 men). The patented creams exhibited satisfactory moisturizing properties very soon after application, while hydration was reached earlier in the spots treated with night cream. Transepidermal water loss slightly decreased only after 4 weeks of treatment in each of the spots assessed. The pH value was similar after each of the treatments. Tested creams may enhance the moisture of skin very soon after application, in this way potentially enable deeper permeation of phospholipids and essential proteins, without changing the pH. It may also contribute to additional anti-aging effects.

Quantitative prediction of mixture toxicity of AgNO3 and ZnO nanoparticles on Daphnia magna

Once metal-based engineered nanoparticles (NPs) are released into the aquatic environment, they are expected to interact with other existing co-contaminants. A knowledge gap exists as to how the interaction of NPs with other co-contaminants occurs. Here we selected ZnO NPs among various NPs, with Ag ion existing as a contaminant in the aquatic environment by Ag NPs widely used. A novel modeling strategy was demonstrated enabling quantitative and predictive evaluation of the aqueous mixture nanotoxicity. Individual and binary mixture toxicity tests of ZnO NPs and silver (as AgNO3) on Daphnia magna were conducted and compared to determine whether the presence of Ag ions affects the toxicity of ZnO NPs. Binary mixture toxicity was evaluated based on the concentration addition (CA) and independent action models. The CA dose-ratio dependent model was found to be the model of best fit for describing the pattern of mixture toxicity. The MIX I and MIX III suspensions (higher ratios of ZnO NPs to AgNO3) showed a synergism, whereas the MIX II suspension (lower ratio of ZnO NPs to AgNO3) showed an antagonism. The synergistic mixture toxicity at higher ratios of ZnO NPs to AgNO3 was caused by either the physiological or metabolic disturbance induced by the excessive ionic Zn or increased transport and accumulation in D. magna via the formation of complex of ionic Ag with ZnO NPs. Therefore, the toxicity level contributed via their aggregation and physicochemical properties and the dissolved ions played a crucial role in the mixture toxicities of the NPs.

Halloysite/Keratin Nanocomposite for Human Hair Photoprotection Coating

We propose a novel keratin treatment of human hair by its aqueous mixtures with natural halloysite clay nanotubes. The loaded clay nanotubes together with free keratin produce micrometer-thick protective coating on hair. First, colloidal and structural properties of halloysite/keratin dispersions and the nanotube loaded with this protein were investigated. Above the keratin isoelectric point (pH = 4), the protein adsorption into the positive halloysite lumen is favored because of the electrostatic attractions. The ζ-potential magnitude of these core-shell particles increased from -35 (in pristine form) to -43 mV allowing for an enhanced colloidal stability (15 h at pH = 6). This keratin-clay tubule nanocomposite was used for the immersion treatment of hair. Three-dimensional-measuring laser scanning microscopy demonstrated that 50-60% of the hair surface coverage can be achieved with 1 wt % suspension application. Hair samples have been exposed to UV irradiation for times up to 72 h to explore the protection capacity of this coating by monitoring the cysteine oxidation products. The nanocomposites of halloysite and keratin prevent the deterioration of human hair as evident by significant inhibition of cysteic acid. The successful hair structure protection was also visually confirmed by atomic force microscopy and dark-field hyperspectral microscopy. The proposed formulation represents a promising strategy for a sustainable medical coating on the hair, which remediates UV irradiation stress.

Nanomaterials in Cosmetics: Recent Updates

This review paper collects the recent updates regarding the use of nanomaterials in cosmetics. Special focus is given to the applications of nanomaterials in the cosmetic industry, their unique features, as well as the advantages of nanoscale ingredients compared to non-nanoscale products. The state-of-the-art practices for physicochemical and toxicological characterization of nanomaterials are also reviewed. Moreover, special focus is given to the current regulations and safety assessments that are currently in place regarding the use of nanomaterials in cosmetics—the new 2019 European guidance for the safety assessment of nanomaterials in cosmetics, together with the new proposed methodologies for the toxicity evaluation of nanomaterials. Concerns over health risks have limited the further incorporation of nanomaterials in cosmetics, and since new nanomaterials may be used in the future by the cosmetic industry, a detailed characterization and risk assessment are needed to fulfill the standard safety requirements.

Studies on antimicrobial and wound healing applications of gauze coated with CHX-Ag hybrid NPs

In this study, chlorhexidine (CHX)-silver (Ag) hybrid nanoparticles (NPs) coated gauze was developed, and their bactericidal effect and in vivo wound healing capacities were tested. A new method was developed to synthesise the NPs, wherein Ag nitrate mixed with sodium (Na) metaphosphate and reduced using Na borohydride. Finally, CHX digluconate was added to form the hybrid NPs. To study the antibacterial efficacy of particles, the minimal inhibition concentration and biofilm degradation capacity against Gram-positive and Gram-negative bacteria was studied using Escherichia coli and Staphylococcus aureus. The results indicated that the NP inhibited biofilm formation and was bactericidal as well. The gauze was doped with NPs, and its wound healing property was evaluated using mice model. Results indicated that the wound healing process was fastened by using the NPs gauze doped with NPs without the administration of antibiotics.

Evaluation of in vitro toxicity of silica nanoparticles (NPs) to lung cells: Influence of cell types and pulmonary surfactant component DPPC

Cultured human lung epithelial cells, particularly A549 cells, are commonly used as the in vitro model to evaluate the inhalational toxicity of nanoparticles (NPs). However, A549 cells are cancer cells that might not reflect the response of normal tissues to NP exposure. In addition, the possible influence of pulmonary surfactant also should be considered. This study used silica NPs as model NPs, and evaluated the toxicity of silica NPs to both 16HBE human bronchial epithelial cells and A549 adenocarcinomic cells, with or without the presence of pulmonary surfactant component dipalmitoyl phosphatidylcholine (DPPC). We found that silica NPs induced cytotoxicity at the concentration of 128 μg/mL in 16HBE cells but not A5490 cells, and the cytotoxicity of silica NPs to 16HBE cells was inhibited by DPPC. Intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) was only induced in 16HBE cells, accompanying with decreased thiol levels. Moreover, 16HBE cells internalized more silica NPs compared with A549 cells, and the internalization was reduced with the presence of DPPC in both types of cells. The retention of ABC transporter substrate Calcein was only significantly induced by silica NPs at high concentrations in 16HBE cells, and was partially reduced due to the presence of DPPC. In addition, ABC transporter inhibitor MK571 increased the toxicity of silica NPs to both types of cells, with 16HBE cells being more sensitive. Our data revealed that the cell types and pulmonary surfactant components could influence the toxicological consequences of silica NPs to human lung cells. Therefore, it is recommended that in vitro studies should carefully select suitable models to evaluate the inhalational toxicity of NPs.

Evolution of Hair Treatment and Care: Prospects of Nanotube-Based Formulations

A new approach for hair treatment through coating with nanotubes loaded with drugs or dyes for coloring is suggested. This coating is produced by nanotube self-assembly, resulting in stable 2-3 µm thick layers. For medical treatment such formulations allow for sustained long-lasting drug delivery directly on the hair surface, also enhanced in the cuticle openings. For coloring, this process allows avoiding a direct hair contact with dye encased inside the clay nanotubes and provides a possibility to load water insoluble dyes from an organic solvent, store the formulation for a long time in dried form, and then apply to hair as an aqueous nanotube suspension. The described technique works with human and other mammal hairs and halloysite nanoclay coating is resilient against multiple shampoo washing. The most promising, halloysite tubule clay, is a biocompatible natural material which may be loaded with basic red, blue, and yellow dyes for optimized hair color, and also with drugs (e.g., antilice care-permethrin) to enhance the treatment efficiency with sustained release. This functionalized nanotube coating may have applications in human medical and beauty formulations, as well as veterinary applications.