Photoaging

Differential reorganisation of cutaneous elastic fibres: a comparison of the in vivo effects of broadband ultraviolet B versus solar simulated radiation

Long-term exposure of human skin to ultraviolet radiation (UVR) in sunlight negatively impacts its appearance and function with photoaged skin having a characteristic leathery, rough appearance, with deep wrinkles. These clinical features of photodamage are thought to result from UVR-induced remodelling of the dermal extracellular matrix, particularly the elastic fibre system. There are few in vivo human data on the impact of acute UVR exposure on this fibre system and particularly solar-simulated radiation (SSR)-mediated effects. We examined the differential effect of broadband UVB and SSR on the human dermal elastic fibre system, and specifically the microfibrillar components fibrillin-1, fibulin-2 and fibulin-5. Healthy white Caucasian adults (skin type II-III) were recruited and irradiated with 3× their minimal erythema dose of broadband UVB (n = 6) or SSR (n = 6) on photoprotected buttock skin. Punch biopsies were taken 24 h after irradiation and from unirradiated control skin. Overall, histological assessment of elastic fibres revealed significantly less elastic fibre staining in broadband UVB (P = 0.004) or SSR (P = 0.04) irradiated skin compared to unirradiated control skin. Significantly less staining of fibrillin-1-positive microfibrils was also observed in the papillary dermis of UVB irradiated skin (P = 0.02) but not skin exposed to SSR. Conversely, immunohistochemistry for fibulin-5-positive microfibrils revealed significantly less expression in skin exposed to SSR (P = 0.04) but not to broadband UVB. There was no significant change in fibulin-2-positive microfibrils following either broadband UVB or SSR irradiation. Thus, broadband UVB and SSR mediate differential effects on individual components of the dermal elastic fibre network in human skin. Further human studies are required to explore the mechanisms underlying these findings and the impact of potential photoprotective agents.

Protective effect of crocin on ultraviolet B‑induced dermal fibroblast photoaging

Ultraviolet B (UVB) radiation induces the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS), resulting in the aging of dermal fibroblasts. Crocin, a bioactive constituent of Crocus sativus, possesses anti‑oxidation effects. The purpose of the present study was to evaluate the protective effect of crocin on UVB‑induced dermal fibroblast photoaging. Human dermal fibroblasts were isolated and cultured with different concentrations of crocin prior to and following exposure to UVB irradiation. The senescent phenotypes of cells were evaluated, including cell proliferation, cell cycle, senescence‑associated β‑galactosidase (SA‑β‑gal) expression, intracellular ROS, expression of antioxidant protein glutathione peroxidase 1 (GPX‑1) and extracellular matrix protein collagen type 1 (Col‑1). Crocin rescued the cell proliferation inhibited by UVB irradiation, prevented cell cycle arrest and markedly decreased the number of SA‑β‑gal‑positive cells. In addition, crocin reduced UVB‑induced ROS by increasing GPX‑1 expression and other direct neutralization effects. Furthermore, crocin promoted the expression of the extracellular matrix protein Col‑1. Crocin could effectively prevent UVB‑induced cell damage via the reduction of intracellular ROS; thus, it could potentially be used in the prevention of skin photoaging.

Resveratrol protects HaCaT cells from ultraviolet B-induced photoaging via upregulation of HSP27 and modulation of mitochondrial caspase-dependent apoptotic pathway

The skin is the outermost protective barrier between the internal and external environment in humans. Chronic exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation is a major cause of photoaging. Evidence suggests that resveratrol suppresses UVB-induced photoaging. In this study, we aimed to investigate the protective effects of resveratrol against UVB-induced photoaging in HaCaT cells and to determine the underlying mechanisms. Apoptosis of normal or HSP27-overexpressing HaCaT cells in the presence of UVB was analyzed by flow cytometry. The mRNA and protein expression levels were measured by quantitative real-time polymerase chain reaction (qRT-PCR) and western blotting. Resveratrol inhibited UVB-induced apoptosis by upregulating the expression of HSP27, reducing the production of proapoptotic proteins such as p65, Bax, and cleaved caspase-3, and promoting the expression of anti-apoptotic protein Bcl-2. However, UVB irradiation on HaCaT cells pretreated with resveratrol led to the upregulation of Bax, downregulation of Bcl-2, and promotion of p65 and caspase-3 activation after silencing of HSP27 gene. These findings suggest that the inhibition of HSP27 expression can partially reverse the anti-apoptotic effect of resveratrol and confirm that resveratrol can regulate HSP27 and thus control p65 and caspase-3 activation. In summary, resveratrol plays a role in photoprotection by upregulating HSP27 expression, increasing Bcl-2/Bax ratio, and inhibiting caspase-3 activity and p65 expression.

Protective effects of an extract of the freshwater microalga Scenedesmus rubescens on UV-irradiated skin cells

BACKGROUND

Skin ageing results from intrinsic but also extrinsic factors of which UV irradiation is a main cause. It is hence of interest to have means to protect skin from UV irradiation-induced damage. We selected an extract of the freshwater microalga Scenedesmus rubescens and assessed its potential to protect skin from photoageing caused by UV irradiation.

METHODS

Skin cells in vitro and ex vivo were analysed for markers of UV irradiation-induced photodamage such as decreased viability, decreased collagen content, hyperpigmentation and sunburn cells.

RESULTS

We found that a dry extract of the microalga Scenedesmus rubescens was able to suppress cellular signs of ageing induced by UV irradiation. It enhanced dermal fibroblast viability, rescued dermal collagen content, inhibited the formation of sunburn cells and inhibited tyrosinase activity.

CONCLUSION

An extract of Scenedesmus rubescens showed broad activity against markers of UV irradiation-induced cutaneous ageing. It may therefore be used as a preventive or regenerative agent for anti-ageing strategies.

Anti-aging Properties of Conditioned Media of Epidermal Progenitor Cells Derived from Mesenchymal Stem Cells

INTRODUCTION

Reduced number and activities of epidermal stem cells are related to the features of photoaged skin. It was reported that conditioned media from various stem cell cultures are capable of improving the signs of cutaneous aging. This work was performed to establish epidermal progenitor cells derived from mesenchymal stem cells, and to evaluate the anti-aging efficacy of its conditioned media.

METHODS

Epidermal progenitor cell culture was established by differentiation from mesenchymal stem cells, and its conditioned medium (EPC-CM) was prepared. Normal human dermal fibroblasts were exposed to hydrogen peroxide and the protective effects of EPC-CM were investigated, monitoring intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS), cellular defense enzymes, collagen biosynthesis, and mitogen-associated protein kinase (MAPK) signaling. Anti-aging efficacy of cosmetic essence (5% EPC-CM) was evaluated by a clinical test with 25 Korean women aged between 29 and 69.

RESULTS

Hydrogen peroxide hindered proliferation of fibroblasts and increased the levels of intracellular ROS. Pretreatment of EPC-CM protected fibroblasts from oxidative stress as shown by accelerated proliferation and reduced ROS generation. EPC-CM effectively prevented hydrogen peroxide-induced alterations of the activities, as well as mRNA and protein levels, of antioxidative enzymes, such as superoxide dismutase, catalase, and glutathione peroxidase. Reduced type I collagen biosynthesis and stimulated phosphorylation of MAPK signaling proteins, induced by oxidative damage, were also prevented by EPC-CM. In clinical study, wrinkle, depression, and skin texture were improved by the topical application of a formulation containing 5% EPC-CM within 4 weeks.

CONCLUSION

Epidermal progenitor cell culture was established, and its conditioned medium was developed for anti-aging therapy. EPC-CM improved signs of skin aging in clinical study, possibly via activation of cellular the defense system, as supported by in vitro results.

GSK126 (EZH2 inhibitor) interferes with ultraviolet A radiation-induced photoaging of human skin fibroblast cells

Polycomb group genes (PcG) encode chromatin modification proteins that are involved in the epigenetic regulation of cell differentiation, proliferation and the aging processes. The key subunit of the PcG complex, enhancer of zeste 2 polycomb repressive complex 2 subunit (EZH2), has a central role in a variety of mechanisms, such as the formation of chromatin structure, gene expression regulation and DNA damage. In the present study, ultraviolet A (UVA) was used to radiate human dermal fibroblasts in order to construct a photo-aged cell model. Subsequently, the cell viability assay, Hoechst staining, apoptosis detection using flow cytometry, senescence-associated β-galactosidase (SA-β-gal) staining and erythrocyte exclusion experiments were performed. GSK126, a histone methylation enzyme inhibitor of EZH2, was used as an experimental factor. Results suggested that GSK126 downregulated the mRNA expression levels of EZH2 and upregulated the mRNA expression levels of BMI-1. Notably, GSK126 affected the transcription of various photoaging-related genes and thus protected against photoaging induced by UVA radiation.

MiR-23a-depressed autophagy is a participant in PUVA- and UVB-induced premature senescence

Autophagy is a cellular catabolic mechanism that is activated in response to stress conditions, including ultraviolet (UV) irradiation, starvation, and misfolded protein accumulation. Abnormalities in autophagy are associated with several pathologies, including aging and cancer. Furthermore, recent studies have demonstrated that microRNAs (miRNAs) are potent modulators of the autophagy pathway. As a result, the current study aims to elucidate the role of the autophagy-related miRNA miR-23ain the process of photoaging. Experiments demonstrated that the antagomir-mediated inactivation of miR-23a resulted in the stimulation of PUVA- and UVB-depressed autophagy flux and protected human fibroblasts from premature senescence. Furthermore, AMBRA1 was identified as a miR-23a target. AMBRA1 cellular levels increased following the introduction of miR-23a antagomirs. And a bioinformatics analysis revealed that the AMBRA1 3' UTR contains functional miR-23a responsive sequences. Finally, it was also demonstrated that both AMBRA1 overexpression and Rapamycin treatment were both able to rescue fibroblasts from PUVA and UVB irradiation-induced autophagy inhibition, but that these effects could also be mitigated by miR-23a overexpression. Therefore, this study concludes that miR-23a-regulated autophagy is a novel and important regulator of ultraviolet-induced premature senescence and AMBRA1 is a rate-limiting miRNA target in this pathway.

The Oxygen Paradox, the French Paradox, and age-related diseases

A paradox is a seemingly absurd or impossible concept, proposition, or theory that is often difficult to understand or explain, sometimes apparently self-contradictory, and yet ultimately correct or true. How is it possible, for example, that oxygen "a toxic environmental poison" could be also indispensable for life (Beckman and Ames Physiol Rev 78(2):547-81, 1998; Stadtman and Berlett Chem Res Toxicol 10(5):485-94, 1997)?: the so-called Oxygen Paradox (Davies and Ursini 1995; Davies Biochem Soc Symp 61:1-31, 1995). How can French people apparently disregard the rule that high dietary intakes of cholesterol and saturated fats (e.g., cheese and paté) will result in an early death from cardiovascular diseases (Renaud and de Lorgeril Lancet 339(8808):1523-6, 1992; Catalgol et al. Front Pharmacol 3:141, 2012; Eisenberg et al. Nat Med 22(12):1428-1438, 2016)?: the so-called, French Paradox. Doubtless, the truth is not a duality and epistemological bias probably generates apparently self-contradictory conclusions. Perhaps nowhere in biology are there so many apparently contradictory views, and even experimental results, affecting human physiology and pathology as in the fields of free radicals and oxidative stress, antioxidants, foods and drinks, and dietary recommendations; this is particularly true when issues such as disease-susceptibility or avoidance, "healthspan," "lifespan," and ageing are involved. Consider, for example, the apparently paradoxical observation that treatment with low doses of a substance that is toxic at high concentrations may actually induce transient adaptations that protect against a subsequent exposure to the same (or similar) toxin. This particular paradox is now mechanistically explained as "Adaptive Homeostasis" (Davies Mol Asp Med 49:1-7, 2016; Pomatto et al. 2017a; Lomeli et al. Clin Sci (Lond) 131(21):2573-2599, 2017; Pomatto and Davies 2017); the non-damaging process by which an apparent toxicant can activate biological signal transduction pathways to increase expression of protective genes, by mechanisms that are completely different from those by which the same agent induces toxicity at high concentrations. In this review, we explore the influences and effects of paradoxes such as the Oxygen Paradox and the French Paradox on the etiology, progression, and outcomes of many of the major human age-related diseases, as well as the basic biological phenomenon of ageing itself.

Blue light-induced oxidative stress in live skin

Skin damage from exposure to sunlight induces aging-like changes in appearance and is attributed to the ultraviolet (UV) component of light. Photosensitized production of reactive oxygen species (ROS) by UVA light is widely accepted to contribute to skin damage and carcinogenesis, but visible light is thought not to do so. Using mice expressing redox-sensitive GFP to detect ROS, blue light could produce oxidative stress in live skin. Blue light induced oxidative stress preferentially in mitochondria, but green, red, far red or infrared light did not. Blue light-induced oxidative stress was also detected in cultured human keratinocytes, but the per photon efficacy was only 25% of UVA in human keratinocyte mitochondria, compared to 68% of UVA in mouse skin. Skin autofluorescence was reduced by blue light, suggesting flavins are the photosensitizer. Exposing human skin to the blue light contained in sunlight depressed flavin autofluorescence, demonstrating that the visible component of sunlight has a physiologically significant effect on human skin. The ROS produced by blue light is probably superoxide, but not singlet oxygen. These results suggest that blue light contributes to skin aging similar to UVA.

Scaffolding proteins in the development and maintenance of the epidermal permeability barrier

The skin of mammals and other terrestrial vertebrates protects the organism against the external environment, preventing heat, water and electrolyte loss, as well as entry of chemicals and pathogens. Impairments in the epidermal permeability barrier function are associated with the genesis and/or progression of a variety of pathological conditions, including genetic inflammatory diseases, microbial and viral infections, and photodamage induced by UV radiation. In mammals, the outside-in epidermal permeability barrier is provided by the joint action of the outermost cornified layer, together with assembled tight junctions in granular keratinocytes found in the layers underneath. Tight junctions serve as both outside-in and inside-out barriers, and impede paracellular movements of ions, water, macromolecules and microorganisms. At the molecular level, tight junctions consist of integral membrane proteins that form an extracellular seal between adjacent cells, and associate with cytoplasmic scaffold proteins that serve as links with the actin cytoskeleton. In this review, we address the roles that scaffold proteins play specifically in the establishment and maintenance of the epidermal permeability barrier, and how various pathologies alter or impair their functions.

A synthetic peptide blocking TRPV1 activation inhibits UV-induced skin responses

BACKGROUND

Transient receptor potential type 1 (TRPV1) can be activated by ultraviolet (UV) irradiation, and mediates UV-induced matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1 and proinflammatory cytokines in keratinocytes. Various chemicals and compounds targeting TRPV1 activation have been developed, but are not in clinical use mostly due to their safety issues.

OBJECTIVE

We aimed to develop a novel TRPV1-targeting peptide to inhibit UV-induced responses in human skin.

METHODS

We designed and generated a novel TRPV1 inhibitory peptide (TIP) which mimics the specific site in TRPV1 (aa 701-709: Gln-Arg-Ala-Ile-Thr-Ile-Leu-Asp-Thr, QRAITILDT), Thr⁷⁰⁵, and tested its efficacy of blocking UV-induced responses in HaCaT, mouse, and human skin.

RESULTS

TIP effectively inhibited capsaicin-induced calcium influx and TRPV1 activation. Treatment of HaCaT with TIP prevented UV-induced increases of MMP-1 and pro-inflammatory cytokines such as interleukin (IL)-6 and tumor necrosis factor-α. In mouse skin in vivo, TIP inhibited UV-induced skin thickening and prevented UV-induced expression of MMP-13 and MMP-9. Moreover, TIP attenuated UV-induced erythema and the expression of MMP-1, MMP-2, IL-6, and IL-8 in human skin in vivo.

CONCLUSION

The novel synthetic peptide targeting TRPV1 can ameliorate UV-induced skin responses in vitro and in vivo, providing a promising therapeutic approach against UV-induced inflammation and photoaging.

Daily Use of a Facial Broad Spectrum Sunscreen Over One-Year Significantly Improves Clinical Evaluation of Photoaging

BACKGROUND

Sunscreens are known to protect from sun damage; however, their effects on the reversal of photodamage have been minimally investigated.

OBJECTIVE

The aim of the prospective study was to evaluate the efficacy of a facial sun protection factor (SPF) 30 formulation for the improvement of photodamage during a 1-year use.

METHODS

Thirty-two subjects applied a broad spectrum photostable sunscreen (SPF 30) for 52 weeks to the entire face. Assessments were conducted through dermatologist evaluations and subjects' self-assessment at baseline and then at Weeks 12, 24, 36, and 52.

RESULTS

Clinical evaluations showed that all photoaging parameters improved significantly from baseline as early as Week 12 and the amelioration continued until Week 52. Skin texture, clarity, and mottled and discrete pigmentation were the most improved parameters by the end of the study (40% to 52% improvement from baseline), with 100% of subjects showing improvement in skin clarity and texture.

CONCLUSION

The daily use of a facial broad-spectrum photostable sunscreen may visibly reverse the signs of existing photodamage, in addition to preventing additional sun damage.

In vivo quantification of quantum dot systemic transport in C57BL/6 hairless mice following skin application post-ultraviolet radiation

BACKGROUND

Previous work has demonstrated size, surface charge and skin barrier dependent penetration of nanoparticles into the viable layers of mouse skin. The goal of this work was to characterize the tissue distribution and mechanism of transport of nanoparticles beyond skin, with and without Ultraviolet Radiation (UVR) induced skin barrier disruption. Atomic absorption spectroscopy (AAS), flow cytometry and confocal microscopy were used to examine the effect of UVR dose (180 and 360 mJ/cm2 UVB) on the skin penetration and systemic distribution of quantum dot (QD) nanoparticles topically applied at different time-points post UVR using a hairless C57BL/6 mouse model.

RESULTS

Results indicate that QDs can penetrate mouse skin, regardless of UVR exposure, as evidenced by the increased cadmium in the local lymph nodes of all QD treated mice. The average % recovery for all treatment groups was 69.68% with ~66.84% of the applied dose recovered from the skin (both epicutaneous and intracutaneous). An average of 0.024% of the applied dose was recovered from the lymph nodes across various treatment groups. When QDs are applied 4 days post UV irradiation, at the peak of the skin barrier defect and LC migration to the local lymph node, there is an increased cellular presence of QD in the lymph node; however, AAS analysis of local lymph nodes display no difference in cadmium levels due to UVR treatment.

CONCLUSIONS

Our data suggests that Langerhans cells (LCs) can engulf QDs in skin, but transport to the lymph node may occur by both cellular (dendritic and macrophage) and non-cellular mechanisms. It is interesting that these specific nanoparticles were retained in skin similarly regardless of UVR barrier disruption, but the observed skin immune cell interaction with nanoparticles suggest a potential for immunomodulation, which we are currently examining in a murine model of skin allergy.

Anticancer activity of a novel small molecule tubulin inhibitor STK899704

We have identified the small molecule STK899704 as a structurally novel tubulin inhibitor. STK899704 suppressed the proliferation of cancer cell lines from various origins with IC50 values ranging from 0.2 to 1.0 μM. STK899704 prevented the polymerization of purified tubulin in vitro and also depolymerized microtubule in cultured cells leading to mitotic arrest, associated with increased Cdc25C phosphorylation and the accumulation of both cyclin B1 and polo-like kinase 1 (Plk1), and apoptosis. Unlike many anticancer drugs such as Taxol and doxorubicin, STK899704 effectively displayed antiproliferative activity against multidrug-resistant cancer cell lines. The proposed binding mode of STK899704 is at the interface between αβ-tubulin heterodimer overlapping with the colchicine-binding site. Our in vivo carcinogenesis model further showed that STK 899704 is potent in both the prevention and regression of tumors, remarkably reducing the number and volume of skin tumor by STK899704 treatment. Moreover, it was significant to note that the efficacy of STK899704 was surprisingly comparable to 5-fluorouracil, a widely used anticancer therapeutic. Thus, our results demonstrate the potential of STK899704 to be developed as an anticancer chemotherapeutic and an alternative candidate for existing therapies.

Molecular mechanisms of UVB-induced senescence of dermal fibroblasts and its relevance for photoaging of the human skin

Due to its ability to cross the epidermis and reach the upper dermis where it causes cumulative DNA damage and increased oxidative stress, UVB is considered the most harmful component of sunlight to the skin. The consequences of chronic exposition to UVB are related to photoaging and photocarcinogenesis. There are limitations to the study of human skin aging and for this reason the use of models is required. Human dermal fibroblasts submitted to mild and repeated doses of UVB are considered a versatile model to study UVB effects in the process of skin photoaging, which depends on the accumulation of senescent cells, in particular in the dermis. Here we provide updated information about the current model of UVB-induced senescence with special emphasis on the process of protein quality control.

Histological and Immunohistochemical Evaluation of the Efficacy of a New Cosmetic Formulation in the Treatment of Skin Photoaging

Objective. Mechanism of action of cosmetic products is not often studied. The aim of this study is to determine the histological, immunohistochemical, and clinical changes of a new cosmetic formulation. Methods. Prospective, single-blind, patient-controlled, randomized study in 10 volunteers with mild to moderate skin photoaging on the back of their hands. The product was applied on one hand and a standard cream on the other hand, twice a day for three months. Standardized photographs were taken on basal (T0) and final visit (T1) and skin biopsies were performed. Changes on histological and immunohistochemical markers were studied. Subjective clinical changes were determined. Results. After treatment, a 26.3% improvement on epidermal thickness was detected and a significant increase on collagens I and III, elastin, and fibronectin fibers was achieved (p < 0.05). As the expression of MMPs remained stable, this improvement of dermal matrix was attributed to the stimulation of their synthesis. A significant clinical improvement on the treated hand was obtained, compared to control hand. Conclusion. This new cosmetic product with combination of three registered technologies (IFC-CAF, WGC, and RetinSphere), focused on regenerating dermal matrix and activating proliferation of skin cells, has shown to be efficient in the reversion of skin photoaging.

Platelet-rich plasma ameliorates senescence-like phenotypes in a cellular photoaging model

Platelet-rich plasma (PRP) is a portion of blood plasma enriched with platelets widely investigated for accelerating bone and soft tissue healing.

Ganoderma lucidum polysaccharides protect fibroblasts against UVB-induced photoaging

Ganoderma lucidum has featured in traditional Chinese medicine for >1,000 years. Ganoderma polysaccharides (GL-PS), a major active ingredient in Ganoderma, confer immune regulation, antitumor effects and significant antioxidant effects. The aim of the present study was to investigate the efficacy and mechanism of GL‑PS‑associated inhibition of ultraviolet B (UVB)‑induced photoaging in human fibroblasts in vitro. Primary human skin fibroblasts were cultured, and a fibroblast photoaging model was built through exposure to UVB. Cell viability was measured by MTT assay. Aged cells were stained using a senescence‑associated β-galactosidase staining (SA‑β‑gal) kit. ELISA kits were used to analyze matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) ‑1 and C‑telopeptides of Type I collagen (CICP) protein levels in cellular supernatant. ROS levels were quantified by flow cytometry. Cells exposed to UVB had decreased cell viability, increased aged cells, decreased CICP protein expression, increased MMP‑1 protein expression, and increased cellular ROS levels compared with non‑exposed cells. However, cells exposed to UVB and treated with 10, 20 and 40 µg/ml GL‑PS demonstrated increased cell viability, decreased aged cells, increased CICP protein expression, decreased MMP‑1 protein expression, and decreased cellular ROS levels compared with UVB exposed/GL‑PS untreated cells. These results demonstrate that GL‑PS protects fibroblasts against photoaging by eliminating UVB‑induced ROS. This finding indicates GL‑PS treatment may serve as a novel strategy for antiphotoaging.

Increased permeability of reconstructed human epidermis from UVB-irradiated keratinocytes

Extrinsic (photo) aging accelerates chronologically aging in the skin due to cumulative UV irradiation. Despite recent insights into the molecular mechanisms of fibroblast aging, age-related changes of the skin barrier function have been understudied. In contrast, the constantly increasing subpopulation of aged patients causes a clinical need for effective and safe (dermatological) treatment. Herein, we reconstructed human epidermis from UVB-irradiated keratinocytes (UVB-RHE). UVB-irradiated keratinocytes show higher activity of senescence associated β-galactosidase, less cell proliferation, and reduced viability. Higher amounts of β-galactosidase are also detectable in UVB-RHE. Moreover, UVB-RHE release more interleukin-1α and -8 into the culture medium and present altered differentiation with a thinner stratum corneum compared to normal RHE. For the first time, the permeation of testosterone and caffeine through UVB-irradiated RHE indicate a clear influence of the UVB stress on the skin barrier function. Impaired barrier function was confirmed by the increased permeation of testosterone and caffeine as well as by the increased penetration of dendritic core-multishell nanocarriers into the constructs. Taken together, UVB-RHE emulate hallmarks of skin aging and might contribute to an improved non-clinical development of medicinal or cosmetic products.

A Mixture of Extracts of Kochia scoparia and Rosa multiflora with PPAR α/γ Dual Agonistic Effects Prevents Photoaging in Hairless Mice

Activation of peroxisome proliferator-activated receptors (PPAR) α/γ is known to inhibit the increases in matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) and reactive oxygen species (ROS) induced by ultraviolet light (UV). Extracts of natural herbs, such as Kochia scoparia and Rosa multiflora, have a PPAR α/γ dual agonistic effect. Therefore, we investigated whether and how they have an antiaging effect on photoaging skin. Eighteen-week-old hairless mice were irradiated with UVA 14 J/cm² and UVB 40 mJ/cm² three times a week for 8 weeks. A mixture of extracts of Kochia scoparia and Rosa multiflora (KR) was topically applied on the dorsal skin of photoaging mice twice a day for 8 weeks. Tesaglitazar, a known PPAR α/γ agonist, and vehicle (propylene glycol:ethanol = 7:3, v/v) were applied as positive and negative controls, respectively. Dermal effects (including dermal thickness, collagen density, dermal expression of procollagen 1 and collagenase 13) and epidermal effects (including skin barrier function, epidermal proliferation, epidermal differentiation, and epidermal cytokines) were measured and compared. In photoaging murine skin, KR resulted in a significant recovery of dermal thickness as well as dermal fibroblasts, although it did not change dermal collagen density. KR increased the expression of dermal transforming growth factor (TGF)-β. The dermal effects of KR were explained by an increase in procollagen 1 expression, induced by TGF-β, and a decrease in MMP-13 expression. KR did not affect basal transepidermal water loss (TEWL) or stratum corneum (SC) integrity, but did decrease SC hydration. It also did not affect epidermal proliferation or epidermal differentiation. KR decreased the expression of epidermal interleukin (IL)-1α. Collectively, KR showed possible utility as a therapeutic agent for photoaging skin, with few epidermal side effects such as epidermal hyperplasia or poor differentiation.

Antiinflammatory and Antiphotodamaging Effects of Ergostatrien-3β-ol, Isolated from Antrodia camphorata, on Hairless Mouse Skin

Ergostatrien-3β-ol (EK100), isolated from the submerged whole broth of Antrodia camphorata, has antidiabetic, hyperlipidemic, and hepatoprotective activities. However, the antiphotodamage activity of EK100 has still not been revealed. Inflammation and collagen degradation contribute to skin photodamage and premature aging. In the present study, in vivo experiments were designed to investigate the antiinflammatory and antiphotodamaging activities of EK100 in hairless mice by physiological and histological analysis of the skin. Results indicated that topical application of EK100 (25 and 100 μM) for 10 weeks efficiently inhibited ultraviolet B (UVB)-induced wrinkle formation, erythema, and epidermal thickness in the mice skin. EK100 also restored UVB-induced collagen content reduction in hairless mice skin. In addition, the immunohistochemistry results indicated that EK100 significantly inhibited the UVB-induced expression of matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1), interleukin-6 (IL-6), inducible nitric oxide synthase (iNOS), and nuclear factor kappaB (NF-κB) in the mouse skin. The expression of these proteins was similar to the Normal group after 100 μM EK100 treatment. EK100 inhibited collagen degradation in the skin through MMP-1 inhibition and antiinflammation. EK100 significantly reduced the transepidermal water loss (TEWL), indicating that EK100 protected skin from UVB-induced damage. Our findings strongly suggest that EK100 has significant beneficial antiinflammatory and antiphotoaging activities and that EK100 can be developed as an antiphotodamaging agent.

Sclareol isolated from Salvia officinalis improves facial wrinkles via an antiphotoaging mechanism

BACKGROUND

Ultraviolet (UV) irradiation triggers skin photoaging processes, which disrupt the normal three-dimensional integrity of skin. UV-induced oxidative stress, both directly and indirectly, stimulates complex signaling pathways. UV radiation activates skin cell surface receptors on a molecular level and triggers severe changes in extracellular matrix (ECM) proteins, resulting in skin photoaging.

AIMS

Sclareol isolated from Salvia officinalis is widely used as a fragrance material. Sclareol is known to exert various biological activities, but its antiphotoaging effect has not been elucidated to date. Therefore, we evaluated wrinkle improvement efficacy of sclareol.

METHODS

Human dermal fibroblast cell line (Hs68) and a reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) model were used to evaluate the antiphotoaging effect of sclareol in vitro. A clinical study treated with 0.02% sclareol-containing cream was conducted to identify the ability of sclareol to improve wrinkles.

RESULTS

First, sclareol enhanced cellular proliferation and blocked UVB-induced cell death. Sclareol inhibited the UVB-induced mRNA expression of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) by regulating the protein expression of AP-1 constituents. In RHE model, sclareol recovered the UVB-induced decrease in epidermal thickness and the expression of proliferating cell nuclear antigen (PCNA). In clinical trial, visually assessed changes and several wrinkle parameters were considered to be statistically different between the test and control groups at 12 weeks.

CONCLUSIONS

In this study, sclareol inhibited various photoaging phenomena in human fibroblasts and RHE model. In addition, sclareol-containing cream improved wrinkles in a clinical trial. Taken together, sclareol alleviates facial wrinkle formation via an antiphotoaging mechanism and may be an effective candidate ingredient.

Thyroid Hormones Enhance Mitochondrial Function in Human Epidermis

Since it is unknown whether thyroid hormones (THs) regulate mitochondrial function in human epidermis, we treated organ-cultured human skin, or isolated cultured human epidermal keratinocytes, with triiodothyronine (100 pmol/L) or thyroxine (100 nmol/L). Both THs significantly increased protein expression of the mitochondrially encoded cytochrome C oxidase I (MTCO1), complex I activity, and the number of perinuclear mitochondria. Triiodothyronine also increased mitochondrial transcription factor A (TFAM) protein expression, and thyroxine stimulated complex II/IV activity. Increased mitochondrial function can correlate with increased reactive oxygen species production, DNA damage, and accelerated tissue aging. However, THs neither raised reactive oxygen species production or matrix metalloproteinase-1, -2 and -9 activity nor decreased sirtuin1 (Sirt1) immunoreactivity. Instead, triiodothyronine increased sirtuin-1, fibrillin-1, proliferator-activated receptor-gamma 1-alpha (PGC1α), collagen I and III transcription, and thyroxine decreased cyclin-dependent kinase inhibitor 2A (p16(ink4)) expression in organ-cultured human skin. Moreover, TH treatment increased intracutaneous fibrillin-rich microfibril and collagen III deposition and decreased mammalian target of rapamycin (mTORC1/2) expression ex vivo. This identifies THs as potent endocrine stimulators of mitochondrial function in human epidermis, which down-regulates rather than enhance the expression of skin aging-related biomarkers ex vivo. Therefore, topically applied THs deserve further exploration as candidate agents for treating skin conditions characterized by reduced mitochondrial function.

A sunblock based on bioadhesive nanoparticles

The majority of commercial sunblock preparations use organic or inorganic ultraviolet (UV) filters. Despite protecting against cutaneous phototoxicity, direct cellular exposure to UV filters has raised a variety of health concerns. Here, we show that the encapsulation of padimate O (PO)--a model UV filter--in bioadhesive nanoparticles (BNPs) prevents epidermal cellular exposure to UV filters while enhancing UV protection. BNPs are readily suspended in water, facilitate adherence to the stratum corneum without subsequent intra-epidermal or follicular penetration, and their interaction with skin is water resistant yet the particles can be removed via active towel drying. Although the sunblock based on BNPs contained less than 5 wt% of the UV-filter concentration found in commercial standards, the anti-UV effect was comparable when tested in two murine models. Moreover, the BNP-based sunblock significantly reduced double-stranded DNA breaks when compared with a commercial sunscreen formulation.

Could tight junctions regulate the barrier function of the aged skin?

The skin is known to be the largest organ in human organism creating interface with outer environment. The skin provides protective barrier against pathogens, physical and chemical insults, and against uncontrolled loss of water. The barrier function was primarily attributed to the stratum corneum (SC) but recent studies confirmed that epidermal tight junctions (TJs) also play important role in maintaining barrier properties of the skin. Independent observations indicate that barrier function and its recovery is impaired in aged skin. However, trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) values remains rather unchanged in elderly population. UV radiation as major factor of photoageing impairs TJ proteins, but TJs have great self-regenerative potential. Since it may be possible that TJs can compensate TEWL in elderly due to its regenerative and compensatory capabilities, important question remains to be answered: how are TJs regulated during skin ageing? This review provides an insight into TJs functioning as epidermal barrier and summarizes current knowledge about the impact of ageing on the barrier function of the skin and epidermal TJs.

Photoprotective Potential of Penta-O-Galloyl-β-DGlucose by Targeting NF-κB and MAPK Signaling in UVB Radiation-Induced Human Dermal Fibroblasts and Mouse Skin

Exposure of the skin to ultraviolet radiation can cause skin damage with various pathological changes including inflammation. In the present study, we identified the skin-protective activity of 1,2,3,4,6-penta-O-galloyl-β-D-glucose (pentagalloyl glucose, PGG) in ultraviolet B (UVB) radiation-induced human dermal fibroblasts and mouse skin. PGG exhibited antioxidant activity with regard to intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) generation as well as ROS and reactive nitrogen species (RNS) scavenging. Furthermore, PGG exhibited anti-inflammatory activity, inhibiting the activation of nuclear factor-kappaB (NF-κB) and mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK) signaling, resulting in inhibition of the expression of pro-inflammatory mediators. Topical application of PGG followed by chronic exposure to UVB radiation in the dorsal skin of hairless mice resulted in a significant decrease in the progression of inflammatory skin damages, leading to inhibited activation of NF-κB signaling and expression of pro-inflammatory mediators. The present study demonstrated that PGG protected from skin damage induced by UVB radiation, and thus, may be a potential candidate for the prevention of environmental stimuli-induced inflammatory skin damage.

Ultraviolet Radiation on the Skin: A Painful Experience?

Excessive exposure of skin to ultraviolet radiation (UVR) has dramatic clinical effects in humans, and it is a significant public health concern. Discomfort and sensory changes caused by skin sunburn are the main common features experienced by many of us, a phenomena triggered by the combination of long and short wavelengths radiation (UVA and UVB, respectively). Although the biological processes underlying UVR exposure are not fully understood, in the last few years many studies have made significant progress in characterizing sunburn at the cellular and molecular levels, making use of both humans and laboratory animal models. Here we review and reason that UVR can be used as an excellent model of sensitization and inflammation for pain research. UVR, particularly UVB, produces a controllable and sterile inflammation that causes a robust dose‐dependent hypersensitivity with minimal confounding effects. Importantly, we show that UVR animal models precisely recapitulate the sensory, cellular, and molecular changes observed in human skin, giving it great confidence as a translational model. Furthermore, in this article, we give an overview of the pharmacology underlying UVB inflammation, the latest advances in the field, and potential new targets for inflammatory pain.

Pleiotropic age-dependent effects of mitochondrial dysfunction on epidermal stem cells

Tissue homeostasis declines with age partly because stem/progenitor cells fail to self-renew or differentiate. Because mitochondrial damage can accelerate aging, we tested the hypothesis that mitochondrial dysfunction impairs stem cell renewal or function. We developed a mouse model, Tg(KRT14-cre/Esr1) (20Efu/J) × Sod2 (tm1Smel) , that generates mitochondrial oxidative stress in keratin 14-expressing epidermal stem/progenitor cells in a temporally controlled manner owing to deletion of Sod2, a nuclear gene that encodes the mitochondrial antioxidant enzyme superoxide dismutase 2 (Sod2). Epidermal Sod2 loss induced cellular senescence, which irreversibly arrested proliferation in a fraction of keratinocytes. Surprisingly, in young mice, Sod2 deficiency accelerated wound closure, increasing epidermal differentiation and reepithelialization, despite the reduced proliferation. In contrast, at older ages, Sod2 deficiency delayed wound closure and reduced epidermal thickness, accompanied by epidermal stem cell exhaustion. In young mice, Sod2 deficiency accelerated epidermal thinning in response to the tumor promoter 12-O-tetradecanoylphorbol-13-acetate, phenocopying the reduced regeneration of older Sod2-deficient skin. Our results show a surprising beneficial effect of mitochondrial dysfunction at young ages, provide a potential mechanism for the decline in epidermal regeneration at older ages, and identify a previously unidentified age-dependent role for mitochondria in skin quality and wound closure.

Acetyl aspartic acid, a novel active ingredient, demonstrates potential to improve signs of skin ageing: from consumer need to clinical proof

BACKGROUND

The megatrend of population ageing is leading to a growing demand for "anti-ageing" treatments, especially to prevent or treat skin ageing. Facing an increasing offer, consumers are choosing more and more skin care products supported by a scientific rationale, active ingredients and clinical proof of efficacy.

OBJECTIVE

Considering consumer expectations, this research led to the discovery of acetyl aspartic acid (A-A-A), a novel active ingredient to improve sagging skin and loss of skin firmness.

RESULTS

This supplement is featuring seven manuscripts aiming at presenting the research and investigations from consumer insights, discovery of A-A-A, its in vitro activity confirmation, safety assessment, formulation and its dermal absorption to the clinical proof of efficacy, investigated through two pilots' double bind randomized and placebo controlled studies on photo-aged skin.

CONCLUSION

This extensive research enabled us to discover A-A-A, as an active ingredient with potential to repair sign of skin ageing and supported by clinical proof of efficacy. This active ingredient will be soon launched in a commercial innovative skin care range, delivering desirable anti-wrinkle and skin lifting benefits.

Epidemiological evidence that indoor air pollution from cooking with solid fuels accelerates skin aging in Chinese women

BACKGROUND

Recently, we showed that outdoor air pollution exposure from traffic and industry is associated with an increased risk of skin aging in Caucasian women. In China, indoor air pollution exposure caused by the use of solid fuels like coal is a major health problem and might also increase the risk of skin aging in Chinese women.

OBJECTIVE

As cooking with solid fuels is a major source of indoor air pollution exposure in China, we aimed to test if cooking with solid fuels is associated with more pronounced skin aging in Chinese women.

METHODS

We conducted two cross-sectional studies in China to assess the association between cooking with solid fuels and signs of skin aging. In Pingding (in northern China) we assessed N=405 and in Taizhou (in southern China) N=857 women between 30 and 90 years of age. Skin aging was evaluated by the SCINEXA score. Indoor air pollution exposure, sun exposure, smoking and other confounders were assessed by questionnaires. Associations were then tested by linear and logistic regression analyses adjusted for further confounders.

RESULTS

The analysis showed that cooking with solid fuels was significantly associated with a 5-8% more severe wrinkle appearance on face and an 74% increased risk of having fine wrinkles on back of hands in both studies combined, independent of age and other influences on skin aging.

CONCLUSION

The present studies thus corroborate our previous finding that air pollution is associated with skin aging and extend it by showing that indoor air pollution might be another risk factor for skin aging.

A blinded, randomized, split-face pilot study of bruising and pain with hyaluronic acid for correction of perioral lines using no lidocaine, lidocaine alone, and lidocaine and epinephrine

BACKGROUND

Hyaluronic acid (HA) fillers are sometimes mixed with lidocaine to mitigate pain. Whether the addition of epinephrine to lidocaine provides greater benefits in bruising and pain has not been fully reported.

OBJECTIVES

The investigators explored the severity of bruising and pain in patients treated with the cohesive polydensified matrix HA (CPMHA) in 3 different preparations: CPMHA (Belotero Balance [BEL]), CPMHA with lidocaine (BEL-L), and CPMHA with lidocaine and epinephrine (BEL-LE).

METHODS

In a blinded, split-face, 14-day study, 30 patients were divided into groups of 10. One group received 1.0 mL BEL in the perioral lines on 1 side and 1.0 mL of BEL-LE on the other side. A second group received 1.0 mL of BEL on 1 side and 1.0 mL of BEL-L on the other side. The third group received 1.0 mL of BEL-L on 1 side and 1.0 mL of BEL-LE on the other side. Over 3 visits, the treating investigator, the patients, and a blinded investigator rated the bruising.

RESULTS

Bruising occurred in each treatment group by day 1 but resolved for half of the patients by day 7 and for all patients by day 14. Split-face comparison did not reveal a significant difference in pain and bruising scores among the 3 preparations.

CONCLUSIONS

No significant difference was found in bruising or pain in patients treated with BEL, BEL-L, and BEL-LE. Studies with a considerably larger sample size are warranted to determine statistically significant and clinically meaningful differences between and among the various formulations.

Intraperitoneally administered biliverdin protects against UVB-induced skin photo-damage in hairless mice

Oxidative stress is shown to be responsible for ultraviolet B (UVB) irradiation-induced skin cancer and premature aging. Biliverdin (BVD), a product of heme oxygenase-1, has strong anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. In the present study, we investigated the effects of BVD on UVB-induced skin photo-damage in hairless mice. Mice were divided into three groups: control group, UVB group (only UVB irradiation) and BVD+UVB group (mice were intraperitoneally injected with BVD before each UVB irradiation). Intraperitoneal BVD injection resulted in a significant photoprotective effect by reducing morphological and histopathological changes to the skin. BVD also exhibited a significant antioxidant effect by increasing the superoxide dismutase (SOD) level and decreasing the thiobarbituric acid reactive substances (TBARS) level compared with the control group. In addition, BVD activated biliverdin reductase (BVR) expression and inhibited the UVB-induced increase of p38 mitogen-activated protein kinase phosphorylation (p-p38MAPK), MMP (matrix metalloproteinase)-1 and MMP-3 expression (p<0.05). It also significantly decreased the interleukin (IL)-6 level compared with the UVB group (p<0.05). In conclusion, these data suggest that the intraperitoneally administered BVD can prevent UVB irradiation-induced skin photo-damage in hairless mice and that this is likely mediated by its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory mechanisms and cell signal regulatory action.

Comparison of mice with accelerated aging caused by distinct mechanisms

Aging is the primary risk factor for numerous chronic, debilitating diseases. These diseases impact quality of life of the elderly and consume a large portion of health care costs. The cost of age-related diseases will only increase as the world's population continues to live longer. Thus it would be advantageous to consider aging itself as a therapeutic target, potentially stemming multiple age-related diseases simultaneously. While logical, this is extremely challenging as the molecular mechanisms that drive aging are still unknown. Furthermore, clinical trials to treat aging are impractical. Even in preclinical models, testing interventions to extend healthspan in old age are lengthy and therefore costly. One approach to expedite aging studies is to take advantage of mouse strains that are engineered to age rapidly. These strains are genetically and phenotypically quite diverse. This review aims to offer a comparison of several of these strains to highlight their relative strengths and weaknesses as models of mammalian and more specifically human aging. Additionally, careful identification of commonalities among the strains may lead to the identification of fundamental pathways of aging.

Red light interferes in UVA-induced photoaging of human skin fibroblast cells

The possible regulation mechanism of red light was determined to discover how to retard UVA-induced skin photoaging. Human skin fibroblasts were cultured and irradiated with different doses of UVA, thus creating a photoaging model. Fibroblasts were also exposed to a subtoxic dose of UVA combined with a red light-emitting diode (LED) for five continuous days. Three groups were examined: control, UVA and UVA plus red light. Cumulative exposure doses of UVA were 25 J cm(-2), and the total doses of red light were 0.18 J cm(-2). Various indicators were measured before and after irradiation, including cell morphology, viability, β-galactosidase staining, apoptosis, cycle phase, the length of telomeres and the protein levels of photoaging-related genes. Red light irradiation retarded the cumulative low-dose UVA irradiation-induced skin photoaging, decreased the expression of senescence-associated β-galactosidase, upregulated SIRT1 expression, decreased matrix metalloproteinase MMP-1 and the acetylation of p53 expression, reduced the horizon of cell apoptosis and enhanced cell viability. Furthermore, the telomeres in UVA-treated cells were shortened compared to those of cells in the red light groups. These results suggest that red light plays a key role in the antiphotoaging of human skin fibroblasts by acting on different signaling transduction pathways.

Cosmeceuticals for children: should you care?

PURPOSE OF REVIEW

Cosmeceuticals are substances that exert physiologic changes to the skin for aesthetic purposes and are popular alternatives to invasive cosmetic procedures for antiaging. Cosmeceuticals are being used on children; yet studies of cosmeceuticals in the pediatric population are limited.

RECENT FINDINGS

Cosmeceuticals remain an unrecognized category by the US Food and Drug Administration, and therefore stringent regulatory pathways do not exist to guide research and marketing. To date, no safety and efficacy study exists on cosmeceutical use in pediatric patients. Increasing knowledge of the mechanisms underlying intrinsic and extrinsic skin aging, including reactive oxygen species formation, effects of declining hormones, and ultraviolet radiation, forms the scientific basis for common cosmeceuticals such as retinoids, botanicals such as soy isoflavones, and even moisturizers and sunscreen. Virtually all studies on cosmeceuticals have been performed in women with varying degrees of skin aging. The cosmeceuticals most likely to be used by younger children are moisturizers and sunscreens. As the popularity and availability of other antiaging cosmeceuticals grow, practitioners will encounter more and more beauty-conscious teenagers using these products for preventive rather than restorative purposes.

SUMMARY

Pediatricians should be familiar with the use of common cosmeceuticals used in children, especially the use of broad-spectrum sunscreen. In the future, more children will be exposed to cosmeceuticals and may experience side effects such as contact dermatitis and skin irritation.

Asymmetric facial skin viscoelasticity during climacteric aging

Background

Climacteric skin aging affects certain biophysical characteristics of facial skin. The purpose of the present study was to assess the symmetric involvement of the cheeks in this stage of the aging process.

Methods

Skin viscoelasticity was compared on both cheeks in premenopausal and post-menopausal women with indoor occupational activities somewhat limiting the influence of chronic sun exposure. Eighty-four healthy women comprising 36 premenopausal women and 48 early post-menopausal women off hormone replacement therapy were enrolled in two groups. The tensile characteristics of both cheeks were tested and compared in each group. A computerized suction device equipped with a 2 mm diameter hollow probe was used to derive viscoelasticity parameters during a five-cycle procedure of 2 seconds each. Skin unfolding, intrinsic distensibility, biological elasticity, and creep extension were measured.

Results

Both biological elasticity and creep extension were asymmetric on the cheeks of the post-menopausal women. In contrast, these differences were more discrete in the premenopausal women.

Conclusion

Facial skin viscoelasticity appeared to be asymmetric following menopause. The possibility of asymmetry should be taken into account in future studies of the effects of hormone replacement therapy and any antiaging procedure on the face in menopausal women.