Raman mapping coupled to self-modelling MCR-ALS analysis to estimate active cosmetic ingredient penetration profile in skin

Confocal Raman spectroscopy coupled with in vitro permeation testing to study the effects of formalin fixation on the skin barrier function of reconstructed human epidermis

Confocal Raman Spectroscopy is recognised as a potent tool for molecular characterisation of biological specimens. There is a growing demand for In Vitro Permeation Tests (IVPT) in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic areas, increasingly conducted using Reconstructed Human Epidermis (RHE) skin models. In this study, chemical fixation of RHE in 10 % Neutral Buffered Formalin for 24 h has been examined for storing RHE samples at 4 °C for up to 21 days. Confocal Raman Spectroscopy (CRS), combined with Principal Components Analysis, revealed the molecular-level effects of fixation, notably in protein and lipid conformation within the stratum corneum and viable epidermis. IVPT by means of high-performance liquid chromatography, using caffeine as a model compound, showed minimal impact of formalin fixation on the cumulative amount, flux, and permeability coefficient after 12 h. While the biochemical architecture is altered, the function of the model as a barrier to maintain rate-limiting diffusion of active molecules within skin layers remains intact. This study opens avenues for enhanced flexibility and utility in skin model research, promising insights into mitigating the limited shelf life of RHE models by preserving performance in fixed samples for up to 21 days.

Quantification of skin penetration of caffeine and propylene glycol applied topically in a mixture by tailored multivariate curve resolution-alternating least squares of depth-resolved Raman spectra

The quantitative determination of topically applied substances in the skin is severely limited and represents a challenging task. The porcine skin ex vivo was topically treated with a gel containing caffeine (CF) and propylene glycol (PG), and depth-resolved Raman spectra were recorded with two confocal Raman microscopes. We applied a novel tailored multivariate curve resolution-alternating least squares method to the selected spectral regions (512-604 and 778-1148 cm-1 ) of gel-treated skin and quantitatively determined the concentrations of CF and PG in the stratum corneum (SC). The highest concentration of CF (181 mg/cm3 ) was found at the surface, while PG (384 mg/cm3 ) was found at 10% SC depth, indicating the formation of a reservoir at the superficial SC. The concentrations of CF and PG decreased monotonically and reached the detection limit at ≈60% and ≈80% SC depth, respectively, indicating that neither permeate the SC.

Measurement of chemical penetration in skin using Stimulated Raman scattering microscopy and multivariate curve resolution - alternating least squares

The mechanistic understanding of skin penetration underpins the design, efficacy and risk assessment of many high-value products including functional personal care products, topical and transdermal drugs. Stimulated Raman scattering (SRS) microscopy, a label free chemical imaging tool, combines molecular spectroscopy with submicron spatial information to map the distribution of chemicals as they penetrate the skin. However, the quantification of penetration is hampered by significant interference from Raman signals of skin constituents. This study reports a method for disentangling exogeneous contributions and measuring their permeation profile through human skin combining SRS measurements with chemometrics. We investigated the spectral decomposition capability of multivariate curve resolution - alternating least squares (MCR-ALS) using hyperspectral SRS images of skin dosed with 4-cyanophenol. By performing MCR-ALS on the fingerprint region spectral data, the distribution of 4-cyanophenol in skin was estimated in an attempt to quantify the amount permeated at different depths. The reconstructed distribution was compared with the experimental mapping of CN, a strong vibrational peak in 4-cyanophenol where the skin is spectroscopically silent. The similarity between MCR-ALS resolved and experimental distribution in skin dosed for 4 h was 0.79 which improved to 0.91 for skin dosed for 1 h. The correlation was observed to be lower for deeper layers of skin where SRS signal intensity is low which is an indication of low sensitivity of SRS. This work is the first demonstration, to the best of our knowledge, of combining SRS imaging technique with spectral unmixing methods for direct observation and mapping of the chemical penetration and distribution in biological tissues.

Label-Free Quantification of Nanoencapsulated Piperonyl Esters in Cosmetic Hydrogels Using Raman Spectroscopy

Raman spectroscopy is a well-established technique for the molecular characterisation of samples and does not require extensive pre-analytical processing for complex cosmetic products. As an illustration of its potential, this study investigates the quantitative performance of Raman spectroscopy coupled with partial least squares regression (PLSR) for the analysis of Alginate nanoencapsulated Piperonyl Esters (ANC-PE) incorporated into a hydrogel. A total of 96 ANC-PE samples covering a 0.4% w/w-8.3% w/w PE concentration range have been prepared and analysed. Despite the complex formulation of the sample, the spectral features of the PE can be detected and used to quantify the concentrations. Using a leave-K-out cross-validation approach, samples were divided into a training set (n = 64) and a test set, samples that were previously unknown to the PLSR model (n = 32). The root mean square error of cross-validation (RMSECV) and prediction (RMSEP) was evaluated to be 0.142% (w/w PE) and 0.148% (w/w PE), respectively. The accuracy of the prediction model was further evaluated by the percent relative error calculated from the predicted concentration compared to the true value, yielding values of 3.58% for the training set and 3.67% for the test set. The outcome of the analysis demonstrated the analytical power of Raman to obtain label-free, non-destructive quantification of the active cosmetic ingredient, presently PE, in complex formulations, holding promise for future analytical quality control (AQC) applications in the cosmetics industry with rapid and consumable-free analysis.

Directional assessment of the skin barrier function in vivo

INTRODUCTION

The fundamental function of the epidermis is to provide an inside-out barrier to water loss and an outside-in barrier to penetration of external irritants. Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) has been extensively used as a method of estimating the skin barrier quality, typically without any consideration of directionality. The validity of TEWL as an estimate of skin permeability to external substances has been controversial in vitro and in vivo. The aim of this work was to assess the relationship between TEWL and the penetration of a topically applied external marker (caffeine) in healthy skin in vivo before and following a challenge to the barrier.

METHODS

The skin barrier was challenged by application of aqueous solutions of mild cleanser products under occlusion for 3 h on the forearms of nine human participants. Skin barrier quality was evaluated before and after the challenge by measuring the TEWL rate and the permeated amount of topically applied caffeine using in vivo confocal Raman microspectroscopy.

RESULTS

No skin irritation was observed following the skin barrier challenge. TEWL rates and the caffeine penetrated amount in the stratum corneum after the challenge were not correlated. A weak correlation was observed when the changes were corrected to water-only treatment. TEWL values can be influenced by environmental conditions as well as the skin temperature and water content.

CONCLUSIONS

Measuring TEWL rates is not always representative of the outside-in barrier. TEWL may be useful in differentiating large changes in skin barrier function (e.g., between healthy and compromised skin) but is less sensitive to small variations following topical application of mild cleansers.

Quantitative determination of concentration profiles of skin components and topically applied oils by tailored multivariate curve resolution-alternating least squares using in vivo confocal Raman micro-spectroscopy

The main components of the stratum corneum (SC), water, lipids, and proteins, are non-homogeneously distributed throughout the depth. The quantitative determination of their concentration profiles and penetration depth of topically applied substances are urgent topics of dermatological and cosmetic research. Confocal Raman micro-spectroscopy has distinct advantages when determining semi-quantitative concentrations of SC components and topically applied substances non-invasively and in vivo. In this work, we applied a tailored multivariate curve resolution-alternating least squares (tMCR-ALS) method to analyze Raman spectra of the SC in the 2000-4000 cm-1 region for quantitatively determining the concentrations of water, lipids, proteins, and topically applied oils using substance-related spectral loadings which were allowed to change depth-dependently from the SC's surface toward its bottom. tMCR-ALS makes matching of depth-dependent signal attenuation, that is, the normalization on keratin, unnecessary and requires only a few additional experiments for calibration - Raman spectra of the pure materials and their densities.

Novel aspects of Raman spectroscopy in skin research

The analytical technology of Raman spectroscopy has an almost 100‐year history. During this period, many modifications and developments happened in the method like discovery of laser, improvements in optical elements and sensitivity of spectrometer and also more advanced light detection systems. Many types of the innovative techniques appeared (e.g. Transmittance Raman spectroscopy, Coherent Raman Scattering microscopy, Surface‐Enhanced Raman scattering and Confocal Raman spectroscopy/microscopy). This review article gives a short description about these different Raman techniques and their possible applications. Then, a short statistical part is coming about the appearance of Raman spectroscopy in the scientific literature from the beginnings to these days. The third part of the paper shows the main application options of the technique (especially confocal Raman spectroscopy) in skin research, including skin composition analysis, drug penetration monitoring and analysis, diagnostic utilizations in dermatology and cosmeto‐scientific applications. At the end, the possible role of artificial intelligence in Raman data analysis and the regulatory aspect of these techniques in dermatology are briefly summarized. For the future of Raman Spectroscopy, increasing clinical relevance and in vivo applications can be predicted with spreading of non‐destructive methods and appearance with the most advanced instruments with rapid analysis time.

In Situ Water Quantification in Natural Deep Eutectic Solvents Using Portable Raman Spectroscopy

Raman spectroscopy is a label-free, non-destructive, non-invasive analytical tool that provides insight into the molecular composition of samples with minimum or no sample preparation. The increased availability of commercial portable Raman devices presents a potentially easy and convenient analytical solution for day-to-day analysis in laboratories and production lines. However, their performance for highly specific and sensitive analysis applications has not been extensively evaluated. This study performs a direct comparison of such a commercially available, portable Raman system, with a research grade Raman microscope system for the analysis of water content of Natural Deep Eutectic Solvents (NADES). NADES are renewable, biodegradable and easily tunable “green” solvents, outcompeting existing organic solvents for applications in extraction from biomass, biocatalysis, and nanoparticle synthesis. Water content in NADES is, however, a critical parameter, affecting their properties, optimal use and extraction efficiency. In the present study, portable Raman spectroscopy coupled with Partial Least Squares Regression (PLSR) is investigated for rapid determination of water content in NADES samples in situ, i.e., directly in glassware. Three NADES systems, namely Betaine Glycerol (BG), Choline Chloride Glycerol (CCG) and Glucose Glycerol (GG), containing a range of water concentrations between 0% (w/w) and 28.5% (w/w), were studied. The results are directly compared with previously published studies of the same systems, using a research grade Raman microscope. PLSR results demonstrate the reliability of the analysis, surrendering R² values above 0.99. Root Mean Square Errors Prediction (RMSEP) of 0.6805%, 0.9859% and 1.2907% w/w were found for respectively unknown CCG, BG and GG samples using the portable device compared to 0.4715%, 0.3437% and 0.7409% w/w previously obtained by analysis in quartz cuvettes with a Raman confocal microscope. Despite the relatively higher values of RMSEP observed, the comparison of the percentage of relative errors in the predicted concentration highlights that, overall, the portable device delivers accuracy below 5%. Ultimately, it has been demonstrated that portable Raman spectroscopy enables accurate quantification of water in NADES directly through glass vials without the requirement for sample withdrawal. Such compact instruments provide solvent and consumable free analysis for rapid analysis directly in laboratories and for non-expert users. Portable Raman is a promising approach for high throughput monitoring of water content in NADES that can support the development of new analytical protocols in the field of green chemistry in research and development laboratories but also in the industry as a routine quality control tool.

Blind source separation of molecular components of the human skin in vivo: non-negative matrix factorization of Raman microspectroscopy data

Determination of the molecular composition of the skin is crucial for numerous tasks in medicine, pharmacology, dermatology and cosmetology. Confocal Raman microspectroscopy is a sensitive method for the evaluation of molecular depth profiles in the skin in vivo. Since the Raman spectra of most of the skin constituents significantly superimpose, a spectral decomposition by a set of predefined library components is usually performed to disentangle their contributions. However, the incorrect choice of the number and type of components or differences between the spectra of the basic components measured in vitro and in vivo can lead to incorrect results of the decomposition procedure. Here, we investigate an alternative data-driven approach based on a non-negative matrix factorization (NNMF) algorithm of depth-resolved Raman spectra of skin that does not require a priori information of spectral data for the analysis. Using the model and experimentally measured depth-resolved Raman spectra of the upper epidermis in vivo, we show that NNMF provides depth profiles of endogenous molecular components and exogenous agents penetrating through the upper epidermis for the spectra and concentration. Moreover, we demonstrate that this approach is capable of providing new information on the molecular profiles of the skin.

Vibrational Spectroscopy in Assessment of Early Osteoarthritis-A Narrative Review

Osteoarthritis (OA) is a degenerative disease, and there is currently no effective medicine to cure it. Early prevention and treatment can effectively reduce the pain of OA patients and save costs. Therefore, it is necessary to diagnose OA at an early stage. There are various diagnostic methods for OA, but the methods applied to early diagnosis are limited. Ordinary optical diagnosis is confined to the surface, while laboratory tests, such as rheumatoid factor inspection and physical arthritis checks, are too trivial or time-consuming. Evidently, there is an urgent need to develop a rapid nondestructive detection method for the early diagnosis of OA. Vibrational spectroscopy is a rapid and nondestructive technique that has attracted much attention. In this review, near-infrared (NIR), infrared, (IR) and Raman spectroscopy were introduced to show their potential in early OA diagnosis. The basic principles were discussed first, and then the research progress to date was discussed, as well as its limitations and the direction of development. Finally, all methods were compared, and vibrational spectroscopy was demonstrated that it could be used as a promising tool for early OA diagnosis. This review provides theoretical support for the application and development of vibrational spectroscopy technology in OA diagnosis, providing a new strategy for the nondestructive and rapid diagnosis of arthritis and promoting the development and clinical application of a component-based molecular spectrum detection technology.