Progress in Topical and Transdermal Drug Delivery Research-Focus on Nanoformulations

Skin is the largest organ and a multifunctional interface between the body and its environment. It acts as a barrier against cold, heat, injuries, infections, chemicals, radiations or other exogeneous factors, and it is also known as the mirror of the soul. The skin is involved in body temperature regulation by the storage of fat and water. It is an interesting tissue in regard to the local and transdermal application of active ingredients for prevention or treatment of pathological conditions. Topical and transdermal delivery is an emerging route of drug and cosmetic administration. It is beneficial for avoiding side effects and rapid metabolism. Many pharmaceutical, technological and cosmetic innovations have been described and patented recently in the field. In this review, the main features of skin morphology and physiology are presented and are being followed by the description of classical and novel nanoparticulate dermal and transdermal drug formulations. The biophysical aspects of the penetration of drugs and cosmetics into or across the dermal barrier and their investigation in diffusion chambers, skin-on-a-chip devices, high-throughput measuring systems or with advanced analytical techniques are also shown. The current knowledge about mathematical modeling of skin penetration and the future perspectives are briefly discussed in the end, all also involving nanoparticulated systems.

Glycols: The ubiquitous solvent for dermal formulations

Glycols stand out as one of the most commonly employed safe and effective excipients for pharmaceutical and cosmeceutical products. Their widespread adoption can be attributed to their exceptional solvency characteristics and their ability to interact effectively with skin lipids and keratin for permeation enhancement. Notably, propylene glycol enjoys significant popularity in this regard. Ongoing research endeavours have been dedicated to scrutinising the impact of glycols on dermal drug delivery and shedding light on the intricate mechanisms by which glycols enhance skin permeation. This review aims to mitigate the discordance within the existing literature, assemble a holistic understanding of the impact of glycols on the percutaneous absorption of active compounds and furnish the reader with a profound comprehension of the foundational facets pertaining to their skin permeation enhancement mechanisms, while simultaneously delving deeper into the intricacies of these processes.

Quantification of skin penetration of caffeine and propylene glycol applied topically in a mixture by tailored multivariate curve resolution-alternating least squares of depth-resolved Raman spectra

The quantitative determination of topically applied substances in the skin is severely limited and represents a challenging task. The porcine skin ex vivo was topically treated with a gel containing caffeine (CF) and propylene glycol (PG), and depth-resolved Raman spectra were recorded with two confocal Raman microscopes. We applied a novel tailored multivariate curve resolution-alternating least squares method to the selected spectral regions (512-604 and 778-1148 cm-1 ) of gel-treated skin and quantitatively determined the concentrations of CF and PG in the stratum corneum (SC). The highest concentration of CF (181 mg/cm3 ) was found at the surface, while PG (384 mg/cm3 ) was found at 10% SC depth, indicating the formation of a reservoir at the superficial SC. The concentrations of CF and PG decreased monotonically and reached the detection limit at ≈60% and ≈80% SC depth, respectively, indicating that neither permeate the SC.

Confocal Raman Spectroscopic Characterization of Dermatopharmacokinetics Ex Vivo

Confocal Raman spectroscopy is being assessed as a tool with which to quantify the rate and extent of drug uptake to and its clearance from target sites of action within the viable epidermis below the skin's stratum corneum (SC) barrier. The objective of this research was to confirm that Raman can interrogate drug disposition within the living layers of the skin (where many topical drugs elicit their pharmacological effects) and to identify procedures by which Raman signal attenuation with increasing skin depth may be corrected and normalized so that metrics descriptive of topical bioavailability may be identified. It was first shown in experiments on skin cross-sections parallel to the skin surface that the amide I signal, originating primarily from keratin, was quite constant with depth into the skin and could be used to correct for signal attenuation when confocal Raman data were acquired in a "top-down" fashion. Then, using 4-cyanophenol (CP) as a model skin penetrant with a strong Raman-active C≡N functionality, a series of uptake and clearance experiments, performed as a function of time, demonstrated clearly that normalized spectroscopic data were able to detect the penetrant to at least 40-80 μm into the skin and to distinguish the disposition of CP from different vehicles. Metrics related to local bioavailability (and potentially bioequivalence) included areas under the normalized C≡N signal versus depth profiles and elimination rate constants deduced post-removal of the formulations. Finally, Raman measurements were made with an approved dermatological drug, crisaborole, for which delivery from a fully saturated formulation into the skin layers just below the SC was detectable.

Optical Methods for Non-Invasive Determination of Skin Penetration: Current Trends, Advances, Possibilities, Prospects, and Translation into In Vivo Human Studies

Information on the penetration depth, pathways, metabolization, storage of vehicles, active pharmaceutical ingredients (APIs), and functional cosmetic ingredients (FCIs) of topically applied formulations or contaminants (substances) in skin is of great importance for understanding their interaction with skin targets, treatment efficacy, and risk assessment-a challenging task in dermatology, cosmetology, and pharmacy. Non-invasive methods for the qualitative and quantitative visualization of substances in skin in vivo are favored and limited to optical imaging and spectroscopic methods such as fluorescence/reflectance confocal laser scanning microscopy (CLSM); two-photon tomography (2PT) combined with autofluorescence (2PT-AF), fluorescence lifetime imaging (2PT-FLIM), second-harmonic generation (SHG), coherent anti-Stokes Raman scattering (CARS), and reflectance confocal microscopy (2PT-RCM); three-photon tomography (3PT); confocal Raman micro-spectroscopy (CRM); surface-enhanced Raman scattering (SERS) micro-spectroscopy; stimulated Raman scattering (SRS) microscopy; and optical coherence tomography (OCT). This review summarizes the state of the art in the use of the CLSM, 2PT, 3PT, CRM, SERS, SRS, and OCT optical methods to study skin penetration in vivo non-invasively (302 references). The advantages, limitations, possibilities, and prospects of the reviewed optical methods are comprehensively discussed. The ex vivo studies discussed are potentially translatable into in vivo measurements. The requirements for the optical properties of substances to determine their penetration into skin by certain methods are highlighted.

Quantification of Chemical Uptake into the Skin by Vibrational Spectroscopies and Stratum Corneum Sampling

Evaluation of the bioavailability of drugs intended to act within the skin following the application of complex topical products requires the application of multiple experimental tools, which must be quantitative, validated, and, ideally and ultimately, sufficiently minimally invasive to permit use in vivo. The objective here is to show that both infrared (IR) and Raman spectroscopies can assess the uptake of a chemical into the stratum corneum (SC) that correlates directly with its quantification by the adhesive tape-stripping method. Experiments were performed ex vivo using excised porcine skin and measured chemical disposition in the SC as functions of application time and formulation composition. The quantity of chemicals in the SC removed on each tape-strip was determined from the individually measured IR and Raman signal intensities of a specific molecular vibration at a frequency where the skin is spectroscopically silent and by a subsequent conventional extraction and chromatographic analysis. Correlations between the spectroscopic results and the chemical quantification on the tape-strips were good, and the effects of longer application times and the use of different vehicles were clearly delineated by the different measurement techniques. Based on this initial investigation, it is now possible to explore the extent to which the spectroscopic approach (and Raman in particular) may be used to interrogate chemical disposition deeper in the skin and beyond the SC.

Confocal Raman Spectroscopy for Assessing Bioequivalence of Topical Formulations

The evaluation of bioequivalence (BE) for topical dermatological drug products is challenging, and there has been significant interest from regulatory authorities in developing new BE methodologies in recent years. Currently, BE is demonstrated by comparative clinical endpoint studies; these are costly and time-consuming and often lack sensitivity and reproducibility. Previously, we reported excellent correlations between in vivo Confocal Raman Spectroscopy in human subjects and in vitro skin permeation testing (IVPT) with the human epidermis for skin delivery of ibuprofen and a number of excipients. The aim of the present proof-of-concept study was to evaluate CRS as a method to assess BE of topical products. Two commercially available formulations, Nurofen Max Strength 10% Gel and Ibuleve Speed Relief Max Strength 10% Gel, were selected for evaluation. Delivery of ibuprofen (IBU) to the skin was determined in vitro and in vivo by IVPT and CRS, respectively. The formulations examined were found to deliver comparable amounts of IBU across the skin over 24 h in vitro (p > 0.05). Additionally, the formulations resulted in similar skin uptake values measured with CRS in vivo, either at 1 h or 2 h after application (p > 0.05). This is the first study to report the capability of CRS for the demonstration of BE of dermal products. Future studies will focus on the standardisation of the CRS methodology for a robust and reproducible pharmacokinetic (PK)-based evaluation of topical BE.

Comment on "Feasibility of Raman spectroscopy as a potential in vivo tool to screen for pre-diabetes and diabetes"

This paper comments recent findings about Raman spectroscopy application for in vivo noninvasive diabetes detection, published in the Journal of Biophotonics by E. Guevara et al. (J. Biophotonics 2022, 15, e202200055). The proposed results may be not entirely correct due to possible overestimation of classification models and absence of additional information regarding age of tested volunteers.

Quantitative determination of concentration profiles of skin components and topically applied oils by tailored multivariate curve resolution-alternating least squares using in vivo confocal Raman micro-spectroscopy

The main components of the stratum corneum (SC), water, lipids, and proteins, are non-homogeneously distributed throughout the depth. The quantitative determination of their concentration profiles and penetration depth of topically applied substances are urgent topics of dermatological and cosmetic research. Confocal Raman micro-spectroscopy has distinct advantages when determining semi-quantitative concentrations of SC components and topically applied substances non-invasively and in vivo. In this work, we applied a tailored multivariate curve resolution-alternating least squares (tMCR-ALS) method to analyze Raman spectra of the SC in the 2000-4000 cm-1 region for quantitatively determining the concentrations of water, lipids, proteins, and topically applied oils using substance-related spectral loadings which were allowed to change depth-dependently from the SC's surface toward its bottom. tMCR-ALS makes matching of depth-dependent signal attenuation, that is, the normalization on keratin, unnecessary and requires only a few additional experiments for calibration - Raman spectra of the pure materials and their densities.

Assessment of penetration and permeation of caffeine by confocal Raman spectroscopy in vivo and ex vivo by tape stripping

OBJECTIVE

Tape stripping is an often-used non-invasive destructive method to investigate the skin penetration of a substance. In recent years, however, the suitability of confocal Raman spectroscopy (CRS) as a non-invasive method of non-destructive examination of the skin has become increasingly apparent. In this study, we compared invasion and depletion penetration and permeation kinetics of a 2% caffeine solution with and without 1,2-pentanediol as a penetration enhancer measured with CRS and tape stripping.

METHODS

Porcine skin was used for tape stripping and human skin for CRS. 2% caffeine solution was applied to the skin for different incubation times. Human skin was then examined by CRS while caffeine was extracted from porcine skin and quantified via reverse-phase HPLC. Fluxes were also measured and calculated by sum of the total amounts of caffeine penetrated into the skin.

RESULTS

Without penetration enhancers, there is hardly any difference between the penetration profiles of the two measurement methods for invasion, but the curves for depletion are different. Furthermore, the calculated flux values for the invasion are almost identical, but for the depletion the tape stripping values are about twice as high as the CRS values.

CONCLUSION

The relevance of conducting invasion and depletion studies became clear and was able to show the still existing problems in the comparability of CRS and tape stripping.

ex vivo-in vivo comparison of drug penetration analysis by confocal Raman microspectroscopy and tape stripping

When it comes to skin penetration analysis of a topically applied formulation, the number of suitable methods is limited, and they often lack in spatial resolution. In vivo studies are pivotal, especially in the approval of a new product, but high costs and ethical difficulties are limiting factors. For that reason, good ex vivo models for testing skin penetration are crucial. In this study, caffeine was used as a hydrophilic model drug, applied as a 2% (w/w) hydrogel, to compare different techniques for skin penetration analysis. Confocal Raman microspectroscopy (CRM) and tape stripping with subsequent HPLC analysis were used to quantify caffeine. Experiments were performed ex vivo and in vivo. Furthermore, the effect of 5% (w/w) 1,2-pentanediol on caffeine skin penetration was tested, to compare those methods regarding their effectiveness in detecting differences between both formulations.

A mechanistic physiologically based model to assess the effect of study design and modified physiology on formulation safe space for virtual bioequivalence of dermatological drug products

Physiologically based pharmacokinetic (PBPK) models are widely accepted tools utilised to describe and predict drug pharmacokinetics (PK). This includes the use of dermal PBPK models at the regulatory level including virtual bioequivalence (VBE) studies. The current work considers the Topicort® Spray formulation, which contains 0.25% desoximetasone (DSM), as an example formulation. Quantitative formulation composition and in vitro permeation testing (IVPT) data were obtained from the public literature to develop a mechanistic model using the multi-phase, multi-layer (MPML) MechDermA IVPT module in the Simcyp Simulator. In vitro-in vivo extrapolation functionality was used to simulate in vivo PK for various scenarios and predict a 'safe space' for formulation bioequivalence using the VBE module. The potential effect of vasoconstriction, impaired barrier function, and various dosing scenarios on the formulation safe space was also assessed. The model predicted 'safe space' for formulation solubility suggesting that a 50% change in solubility may cause bio-in-equivalence, whereas viscosity could deviate by orders of magnitude and the formulation may still remain bioequivalent. Evaporation rate and fraction of volatile components showed some sensitivity, suggesting that large changes in the volume or composition of the volatile fraction could cause bio-in-equivalence. The tested dosing scenarios showed decreased sensitivity for all formulation parameters with a decreased dose. The relative formulation bioequivalence was insensitive to vasoconstriction, but the safe space became wider with decreased barrier function for all parameters, except viscosity that was unaffected.

Confocal Raman Micro-Spectroscopy for Discrimination of Glycerol Diffusivity in Ex Vivo Porcine Dura Mater

Dura mater (DM) is a connective tissue with dense collagen, which is a protective membrane surrounding the human brain. The optical clearing (OC) method was used to make DM more transparent, thereby allowing to increase in-depth investigation by confocal Raman micro-spectroscopy and estimate the diffusivity of 50% glycerol and water migration. Glycerol concentration was obtained, and the diffusion coefficient was calculated, which ranged from 9.6 × 10^-6 to 3.0 × 10^-5 cm²/s. Collagen-related Raman band intensities were significantly increased for all depths from 50 to 200 µm after treatment. In addition, the changes in water content during OC showed that 50% glycerol induces tissue dehydration. Weakly and strongly bound water types were found to be most concentrated, playing a major role in the glycerol-induced water flux and OC. Results show that OC is an efficient method for controlling the DM optical properties, thereby enhancing the in-depth probing for laser therapy and diagnostics of the brain. DM is a comparable to various collagen-containing tissues and organs, such as sclera of eyes and skin dermis.

Structural and Functional Analysis of Excised Skins and Human Reconstructed Epidermis with Confocal Raman Spectroscopy and in Microfluidic Diffusion Chambers

Several ex vivo and in vitro skin models are available in the toolbox of dermatological and cosmetic research. Some of them are widely used in drug penetration testing. The excised skins show higher variability, while the in vitro skins provide more reproducible data. The aim of the current study was to compare the chemical composition of different skin models (excised rat skin, excised human skin and human-reconstructed epidermis) by measurement of ceramides, cholesterol, lactate, urea, protein and water at different depths of the tissues. The second goal was to compile a testing system, which includes a skin-on-a-chip diffusion setup and a confocal Raman spectroscopy for testing drug diffusion across the skin barrier and accumulation in the tissue models. A hydrophilic drug caffeine and the P-glycoprotein substrate quinidine were used in the study as topical cream formulations. The results indicate that although the transdermal diffusion of quinidine is lower, the skin accumulation was comparable for the two drugs. The various skin models showed different chemical compositions. The human skin was abundant in ceramides and cholesterol, while the reconstructed skin contained less water and more urea and protein. Based on these results, it can be concluded that skin-on-a-chip and confocal Raman microspectroscopy are suitable for testing drug penetration and distribution at different skin layers within an exposition window. Furthermore, obese human skin should be treated with caution for skin absorption testing due to its unbalanced composition.

Estimating the Analytical Performance of Raman Spectroscopy for Quantification of Active Ingredients in Human Stratum Corneum

Confocal Raman microscopy (CRM) has become a versatile technique that can be applied routinely to monitor skin penetration of active molecules. In the present study, CRM coupled to multivariate analysis (namely PLSR—partial least squares regression) is used for the quantitative measurement of an active ingredient (AI) applied to isolated (ex vivo) human stratum corneum (SC), using systematically varied doses of resorcinol, as model compound, and the performance is quantified according to key figures of merit defined by regulatory bodies (ICH, FDA, and EMA). A methodology is thus demonstrated to establish the limit of detection (LOD), precision, accuracy, sensitivity (SEN), and selectivity (SEL) of the technique, and the performance according to these key figures of merit is compared to that of similar established methodologies, based on studies available in literature. First, principal components analysis (PCA) was used to examine the variability within the spectral data set collected. Second, ratios calculated from the area under the curve (AUC) of characteristic resorcinol and proteins/lipids bands (1400–1500 cm⁻¹) were used to perform linear regression analysis of the Raman spectra. Third, cross-validated PLSR analysis was applied to perform quantitative analysis in the fingerprint region. The AUC results show clearly that the intensities of Raman features in the spectra collected are linearly correlated to resorcinol concentrations in the SC (R² = 0.999) despite a heterogeneity in the distribution of the active molecule in the samples. The Root Mean Square Error of Cross-Validation (RMSECV) (0.017 mg resorcinol/mg SC), The Root Mean Square of Prediction (RMSEP) (0.015 mg resorcinol/mg SC), and R² (0.971) demonstrate the reliability of the linear regression constructed, enabling accurate quantification of resorcinol. Furthermore, the results have enabled the determination, for the first time, of numerical criteria to estimate analytical performances of CRM, including LOD, precision using bias corrected mean square error prediction (BCMSEP), sensitivity, and selectivity, for quantification of the performance of the analytical technique. This is one step further towards demonstrating that Raman spectroscopy complies with international guidelines and to establishing the technique as a reference and approved tool for permeation studies.

Ex vivo - in vivo correlation of Retinol stratum corneum penetration studies by confocal Raman microspectroscopy and tape stripping

Skin penetration studies of topically applied drugs are a challenging topic in the development of semisolid formulations. The most commonly used methods can be differentiated by their character into ex-vivo/in-vivo, invasive/non-invasive and off-line/in-line measurements. In this study we compare ex-vivo tape stripping, an invasive technique, which is often used, to confocal Raman microspectroscopy (CRM), ex- and in-vivo, to establish a correlation between those methods. Retinol was used as a model drug, applied in an oil in water emulsion, to compare the skin penetration profiles obtained by the different methods.

Clinical Spectroscopy: Lost in Translation?

This Focal Point Review paper discusses the developments of biomedical Raman and infrared spectroscopy, and the recent strive towards these technologies being regarded as reliable clinical tools. The promise of vibrational spectroscopy in the field of biomedical science, alongside the development of computational methods for spectral analysis, has driven a plethora of proof-of-concept studies which convey the potential of various spectroscopic approaches. Here we report a brief review of the literature published over the past few decades, with a focus on the current technical, clinical, and economic barriers to translation, namely the limitations of many of the early studies, and the lack of understanding of clinical pathways, health technology assessments, regulatory approval, clinical feasibility, and funding applications. The field of biomedical vibrational spectroscopy must acknowledge and overcome these hurdles in order to achieve clinical efficacy. Current prospects have been overviewed with comment on the advised future direction of spectroscopic technologies, with the aspiration that many of these innovative approaches can ultimately reach the frontier of medical diagnostics and many clinical applications.

Blind source separation of molecular components of the human skin in vivo: non-negative matrix factorization of Raman microspectroscopy data

Determination of the molecular composition of the skin is crucial for numerous tasks in medicine, pharmacology, dermatology and cosmetology. Confocal Raman microspectroscopy is a sensitive method for the evaluation of molecular depth profiles in the skin in vivo. Since the Raman spectra of most of the skin constituents significantly superimpose, a spectral decomposition by a set of predefined library components is usually performed to disentangle their contributions. However, the incorrect choice of the number and type of components or differences between the spectra of the basic components measured in vitro and in vivo can lead to incorrect results of the decomposition procedure. Here, we investigate an alternative data-driven approach based on a non-negative matrix factorization (NNMF) algorithm of depth-resolved Raman spectra of skin that does not require a priori information of spectral data for the analysis. Using the model and experimentally measured depth-resolved Raman spectra of the upper epidermis in vivo, we show that NNMF provides depth profiles of endogenous molecular components and exogenous agents penetrating through the upper epidermis for the spectra and concentration. Moreover, we demonstrate that this approach is capable of providing new information on the molecular profiles of the skin.

Dermal Delivery of Niacinamide-In Vivo Studies

In vivo human studies are considered to be the “gold standard” when investigating (trans)dermal delivery of actives. Previously, we reported the effects of a range of vehicles on the delivery of niacinamide (NIA) using conventional Franz cell studies. In the present work, dermal delivery of NIA was investigated in vivo in human subjects using confocal Raman spectroscopy (CRS) and tape stripping (TS). The vehicles investigated included propylene glycol (PG), Transcutol^® P (TC), binary combinations of PG with oleic acid (OA) or linolenic acid (LA) and a ternary system comprising of TC, caprylic/capric triglyceride (CCT) and dimethyl isosorbide (DMI). For the CRS studies, higher area under curve (AUC) values for NIA were observed for the PG:LA binary system compared with PG, TC and TC:CCT:DMI (p < 0.05). A very good correlation was found between the in vitro cumulative permeation of NIA and the AUC values from Raman intensity depth profiles, with a Pearson correlation coefficient (R²) of 0.84. In addition, an excellent correlation (R² = 0.97) was evident for the signal of the solvent PG and the active. CRS was also shown to discriminate between NIA in solution versus crystalline NIA. The findings confirm that CRS is emerging as a powerful approach for dermatopharmacokinetic studies of both actives and excipients in human.

In Vitro-In Vivo Correlation in Dermal Delivery: The Role of Excipients

The composition of topical and transdermal formulations is known to determine the rate and the extent of drug delivery to and through the skin. However, to date, the role of excipients in these formulations on skin delivery of actives has received little attention from scientists in the field. Monitoring skin absorption of both drug and vehicle may provide insights into the mechanism by which excipients promote permeation and may facilitate the design of effective and safer products. Previously, we have investigated the use of quantitative Confocal Raman Spectroscopy (CRS) to investigate the delivery of an active to the skin, and we also reported the first fully quantitative study that compared this method with the well-established in vitro permeation test (IVPT) model. To further explore the potential of quantitative CRS in assessing topical delivery, the present work investigated the effects of commonly used excipients on the percutaneous absorption of a model drug, ibuprofen (IBU). Permeation of IBU and selected solvents following finite dose applications to human skin was determined in vitro and in vivo by Franz diffusion studies and quantitative CRS, respectively. The solvents used were propylene glycol (PG), dipropylene glycol (DPG), tripropylene glycol (TPG), and polyethylene glycol 300 (PEG 300). Overall, the cumulative amounts of IBU that permeated at 24 h in vitro were similar for PG, DPG, and TPG (p > 0.05). These three vehicles outperformed PEG 300 (p < 0.05) in terms of drug delivery. Concerning the vehicles, the rank order for in vitro skin permeation was DPG ≥ PG > TPG, while PEG 300 did not permeate the skin. A linear relationship between maximum vehicle and IBU flux in vitro was found, with a correlation coefficient (R²) of 0.95. When comparing in vitro with in vivo data, a positive in vitro–in vivo (IVIV) correlation between the cumulative permeation of IBU in vitro and the total amount of IBU that penetrated the stratum corneum (SC) in vivo was observed, with a Pearson correlation coefficient (R²) of 0.90. A strong IVIV correlation, R² = 0.82, was found following the linear regression of the cumulative number of solvents permeated in vitro and the corresponding skin uptake in vivo measured with CRS. This is the first study to correlate in vivo permeation of solvents measured by CRS with data obtained by in vitro diffusion studies. The IVIV correlations suggest that CRS is a powerful tool for profiling drug and vehicle delivery from dermal formulations. Future studies will examine additional excipients with varying physicochemical properties. Ultimately, these findings are expected to lead to new approaches for the design, evaluation, and optimization of formulations that target actives to and through the skin.

A Predictive Self-Organizing Multicellular Computational Model of Infant Skin Permeability to Topically Applied Substances

Computational models of skin permeability are typically based on assumptions of fixed geometry and homogeneity of the whole epidermis or of epidermal strata and are often limited to adult skin. Infant skin differs quantitatively from that of the adult in its structure and its functional properties, including its barrier function to permeation. To address this problem, we developed a self-organizing multicellular epidermis model of barrier formation with realistic cell morphology. By modulating the parameters relating to cell turnover reflecting those in adult or infant epidermis, we were able to generate accordingly two distinct models. Emerging properties of these models reflect the corresponding experimentally measured values of epidermal and stratum corneum thickness. Diffusion of an externally applied substance (e.g., caffeine) was simulated by a molecular exchange between the model agents, defined by the individual cells and their surrounding extracellular space. By adjusting the surface concentration and the intercellular exchange rate, the model can recapitulate experimental permeability data after topical exposure. By applying these parameters to an infant model, we were able to predict the caffeine concentration profile in infant skin, closely matching experimental results. This work paves the way for a better understanding of skin physiology and function during the first years of life.

Raman mapping coupled to self-modelling MCR-ALS analysis to estimate active cosmetic ingredient penetration profile in skin

Confocal Raman mapping (CRM) is a powerful, label free, non-destructive tool, enabling molecular characterization of human skin with applications in the dermo-cosmetic field. Coupling CRM to multivariate analysis can be used to monitor the penetration and permeation of active cosmetic ingredients (ACI) after topical application. It is presently illustrated how multivariate curve resolution alternating least squares (MCR-ALS) can be applied to detect and semi-quantitatively describe the diffusion profile of Delipidol, a commercially available slimming ACI, from Raman spectral maps. Although the analysis outcome can be critically dependent on the a priori selection of the number of regression components, it is demonstrated that profiling of the kinetics of diffusion into the skin can be established with or without additionnal spectral equality constraints in the multivariate analysis, with similar results. Ultimately, MCR-ALS, applied without spectral equality contraints, specifically identifies the ACI as one of main spectral components enabling to investigate its distribution and penetration into the stratum corneum and underlying epidermis layers.

Franz Cell Diffusion Testing and Quantitative Confocal Raman Spectroscopy: In Vitro-In Vivo Correlation

Previously, we reported the use of Confocal Raman Spectroscopy (CRS) to investigate the topical delivery of actives and excipients. We have also correlated the results from CRS with findings from in vitro diffusion studies in human skin. However, until now CRS has only been used as a semi-quantitative method of determining the skin uptake of molecules, with results expressed as arbitrary units of signal intensity. Clearly, this posed challenges for using CRS to determine skin delivery and to assess the drug bioavailability and bioequivalence of topical formulations. In the present work, the permeation of niacinamide (NIA) from various formulations in human skin was studied in vitro using conventional Franz cells and in vivo using a quantitative CRS method under finite dose conditions. The selection of NIA was based on its wide use in pharmaceutical and personal care formulations for many years. This is the first fully quantitative study to compare these methods. The vehicles investigated were neat Transcutol^® P (TC); binary combinations of propylene glycol (PG) with propylene glycol monolaurate (PGML); and ternary mixtures of PG, PGML, and isopropyl myristate (IPM). These solvents were selected to encompass a range of physicochemical properties. NIA permeation was evident from all formulations in vitro and in vivo. The vehicles PG:PGML and PG:PGML:IPM delivered comparable amounts across the skin in vitro at 24 h (100.3–106.7 µg/cm², p > 0.05) that were significantly higher compared with those of TC (1.3 µg/cm², p < 0.05). An excellent in vitro in vivo correlation (R² = 0.98) was found following the linear regression of the cumulative amounts of NIA permeated in vitro and the amounts of NIA at 2 μm in the skin measured with CRS. A very good correlation between the cumulative permeation of NIA in vitro and the total amount of NIA that penetrated the stratum corneum (SC) per unit of surface area (μg/cm²) in vivo was also observed, with a Pearson correlation coefficient (R²) of 0.94. The findings support the use of CRS for the quantitative measurement of actives delivered to the skin in vivo. Future studies will focus on exploring the reproducibility and reliability of the method by investigating the delivery of different actives from a wider range of vehicles. Additionally, quantitative CRS will be evaluated further as a method for assessing the bioequivalence of topical formulations.

A New Method for In-Situ Skin Penetration Analysis by Confocal Raman Microscopy

In the development of dermal drug formulations and cosmetics, understanding the penetration properties of the active ingredients is crucial. Given that widespread methods, including tape stripping, lack in spatial resolution, while being time- and labour-intensive, Confocal Raman Microscopy is a promising alternative. In optimizing topically applied formulations, or the development of generic formulations, comparative in-situ measurements have a huge potential of saving time and resources. In this work, we show our approach to in-situ skin penetration analysis by confocal Raman Microscopy. To analyse feasibility of the approach, we used caffeine solutions as model vehicles and tested the effectiveness of 1,2-pentanediol as a penetration enhancer for delivery to the skin.

In vivo Raman spectroscopy study on the stimulation mechanism of surfactant

BACKGROUND

Surfactant is widely used in skin care products and cleansers, while it may cause physical discomfort. In this study, in vivo Raman spectroscopy was used to explore surfactant irritation mechanism on skin, which was not found in literature.

METHODS

Sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) was chosen to represent surfactant. Research on the negative effect of SDS was undertaken by scanning the two states of the skin (without and with the contact of SDS), respectively, on six volunteers, by means of Raman technique and skin magnifier.

RESULTS

The damage to the surface of normal skin by SDS was visible from the photographs taken by skin magnifier, and the apparent damage matched the damage that was happening underneath the skin elucidated by Raman spectra. Compared to the normal skin, the inter-cellular lipids (ICL) lateral packing order of the damaged skin was significantly reduced in 2-12 μm of skin depth (P < 0.05), deeper than 12 μm was not detected. The skin depth of 0-2 μm could not be determined due to strong interference of SDS. Significant change in the secondary and tertiary structures of keratin was not found.

Response to comment by Puppels et al. on "A modification for the calculation of water depth profiles in oil-treated skin by in vivo Raman microscopy"

The presence of penetrated oils in the stratum corneum (SC), oil-induced occlusion of the SC and formation of occluding homogeneous film on the skin surface are discussed in relation to their influence on results of water profile calculations using conventional and newly proposed extended methods. It is shown that the conventional method does not determine the water profiles in treated skin correctly due to the superposition of Raman bands of SC's proteins and penetrated and remnant oils.