Illegal cosmetics on the EU market: a threat for human health?

Diluting modulation-based two dimensional-liquid chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry for simultaneously determining multiclass prohibited substances in cosmetics

Developing efficient and comprehensive screening methods for prohibited substances in cosmetics is critical for ensuring the quality and safety of cosmetics used in everyday life. This study proposed a heart-cutting two-dimensional liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry (2D-LC-MS) method based on online diluting modulation for detecting multiclass prohibited substances in cosmetics. The 2D-LC-MS method combines HILIC and RPLC techniques. Compounds near the dead time that the first dimensional HILIC could not separate were transferred to the second dimensional RPLC by valve switch, achieving good separation with a wide range of polarities. Moreover, the online diluting modulation solved the problem of mobile phase incompatibility, realizing an excellent column-head focusing effect and reducing the loss of sensitivity. Besides, the first dimensional analysis did not restrict the flow rate of the second dimensional analysis owing to the diluting modulation. We demonstrated the 2D-LC-MS system by determining 126 prohibited substances in cosmetic products, including hormones, local anesthetics, anti-infectives, adrenergic agents, antihistamines, pesticides, and other chemicals. All correlation coefficients of the compounds were above 0.9950. The LODs and the LOQs ranged from 0.000259 ng/mL to 16.6 ng/mL and 0.000864 ng/mL to 55.3 ng/mL, respectively. The RSDs% for intra-day and inter-day precision were within 6% and 14%, respectively. Compared with conventional one-dimensional liquid chromatography methods, the established method expanded the analytical coverage of cosmetics-prohibited substances with reduced matrix effects for most compounds and improved sensitivity for polar analytes. The results indicated that the 2D-LC-MS method was a powerful tool for screening multiclass prohibited substances in cosmetics.

Skin lightening products' violations in Europe: An analysis of the rapid alert system for dangerous non-food products 2005-2018

BACKGROUND

Skin lightening products containing dangerous levels of chemicals pose a serious health concern for consumers. However, to date, the extent of these products in Europe has not been extensively studied. The aim of this study was to determine whether harmful skin lightening products are available for sale in Europe and what violations exist regarding their composition.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

We queried the Rapex database, which is the Rapid Alert System for dangerous non-food products among 31 European countries, to identify skin lightening cosmetics reported between 2005 and 2018, and presented a detailed summary of these notifications.

RESULTS

In the years 2005-2018, of all violations regarding cosmetics, 26.3% concerned skin lightening products. In the database, 266 reports on skin lightening products were identified. Most of the notifications came from Germany (17.29%), France (17.29%), Portugal (15.41%), and the United Kingdom (11.65%). The majority of the registered products originated from non-European countries, mainly the Côte d'Ivoire (29.70%). The major reason for the violation was the content of hydroquinone, mercury, or clobetasol propionate.

CONCLUSIONS

Hazardous skin lightening products that are not in line with European cosmetics legislation are available on the European market. Most of the products are imported. The main risk associated with these products is the content of hydroquinone, mercury, and clobetasol propionate. It is important to bear in mind that this study focuses on the Rapex system and other sources of information may exist. Based on our findings, a more comprehensive evaluation by international authorities is justified.

In vitro Dermal Absorption of Hydroquinone: Protocol Validation and Applicability on Illegal Skin-Whitening Cosmetics

In Europe, hydroquinone is a forbidden cosmetic ingredient. It is, however, still abundantly used because of its effective skin-whitening properties. The question arises as to whether the quantities of hydroquinone used become systemically available and may cause damage to human health. Dermal absorption studies can provide this information. In the EU, dermal absorption has to be assessed in vitro since the Cosmetic Regulation 1223/2009/EC forbids the use of animals. To obtain human-relevant data, a Franz diffusion cell protocol was validated using human skin. The results obtained were comparable to those from a multicentre validation study. The protocol was applied to hydroquinone and the dermal absorption ranged between 31 and 44%, which is within the range of published in vivo human values. This shows that a well-validated in vitro dermal absorption study using human skin provides relevant human data. The validated protocol was used to determine the dermal absorption of illegal skin-whitening cosmetics containing hydroquinone. All samples gave high dermal absorption values, rendering them all unsafe for human health. These results add to our knowledge of illegal cosmetics on the EU market, namely that they exhibit a negative toxicological profile and are likely to induce health problems.

Direct identification of prohibited substances in cosmetics and foodstuffs using ambient ionization on a miniature mass spectrometry system

Significantly simplified work flows were developed for rapid analysis of various types of cosmetic and foodstuff samples by employing a miniature mass spectrometry system and ambient ionization methods. A desktop Mini 12 ion trap mass spectrometer was coupled with paper spray ionization, extraction spray ionization and slug-flow microextraction for direct analysis of Sudan Reds, parabens, antibiotics, steroids, bisphenol and plasticizer from raw samples with complex matrices. Limits of detection as low as 5 μg/kg were obtained for target analytes. On-line derivatization was also implemented for analysis of steroid in cosmetics. The developed methods provide potential analytical possibility for outside-the-lab screening of cosmetics and foodstuff products for the presence of illegal substances.