Extreme cosmetics and borderline products: an analytical-based survey of European regulation compliance

Allergens and Other Harmful Substances in Hydroalcoholic Gels: Compliance with Current Regulation

Hydroalcoholic gels or hand sanitisers have become essential products to prevent and mitigate the transmission of COVID-19. Depending on their use, they can be classified as cosmetics (cleaning the skin) or biocides (with antimicrobial effects). The aim of this work was to determine sixty personal care products frequently found in cosmetic formulations, including fragrance allergens, synthetic musks, preservatives and plasticisers, in hydroalcoholic gels and evaluate their compliance with the current regulation. A simple and fast analytical methodology based on solid-phase microextraction followed by gas chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry (SPME-GC-MS/MS) was validated and applied to 67 real samples. Among the 60 target compounds, 47 of them were found in the analysed hand sanitisers, highlighting the high number of fragrance allergens (up to 23) at concentrations of up to 32,458 μg g-1. Most of the samples did not comply with the labelling requirements of the EU Regulation No 1223/2009, and some of them even contained compounds banned in cosmetic products such as plasticisers. Method sustainability was also evaluated using the metric tool AGREEPrep, demonstrating its greenness.

The chemistry behind the body art: unveiling the elemental profile and heavy metal content of natural tattoos and dyes by ICP-MS

Temporary tattoos and dyes are increasing popularity as an alternative to permanent ones. However, knowledge on its elementary composition is scarce and, this scientific gap can potentially make them a source of heavy metal exposure on humans. The present research aimed to explore the possibility of using the inorganic chemical signature to characterize natural pigments-based products and to evaluate the heavy metal content in jagua temporary tattoos and henna temporary hair dyes and tattoos. Thirty-four different samples of commercial products were analyzed for the presence and quantity of eleven trace elements (Al, Cr, Mn, Co, Ni, Cu, Zn, As, Cd, Ba, and Pb) by inductively coupled plasma mass spectrometry (ICP-MS). The overall mean concentrations varied between 0.02 and 973 μg g^-1 in solid samples or 0.01-1878 μg g^-1 for paste ones, wherein potential fake products were uncovered. None of the 34 samples considered comply with the current European Cosmetics Regulation. Samples were differentiated according to their Cr, Zn, Ba, and Pb content. The overall results revealed highly variable levels in the investigated samples, which leads us to suggest detailed quality controls of these materials, due the fact that their continued use can origin potential threat to human health.

Understanding the chemical and mineralogical composition of commercial henna and jagua tattoos and dyes-a multi-analytical approach

Temporary tattoos and dyes constitute a great analytical challenge in relation to the regulatory control of their ingredients. Most of these commercial products are not labeled according to their content and their chemical nature is highly diverse. Therefore, it is necessary to analyze these complex samples to evaluate the potential presence of metallic impurities, to ensure the safety of cosmetic products contributing to health protection. This study proposes a multi-analytical methodology, which includes handheld X-ray fluorescence (h-XRF) and X-ray diffraction (XRD), complemented by variable pressure scanning electron microscopy coupled with energy-dispersive X-ray spectrometry (VP-SEM-EDS) to fully characterize 34 commercial samples of jagua and henna tattoos and dyes. The approach allowed the identification of the main constituents providing complementary compositional data and differences between sample types were established. In addition, information on the degree of natural pigments homogeneity was also obtained. The results' discussion considering the current European cosmetics regulation may be useful to support the drafting of safety requirements and specific regulation.

Parabens and antimicrobial compounds in conventional and "green" personal care products

The personal care product (PCP) industry is a worldwide multi-billion-dollar industry. Several synthetic compounds like parabens and antimicrobial agents triclosan (TCS) and triclocarban (TCC) are ingredients in many PCPs. Due to growing public awareness of potential risks associated with parabens and other synthetic compounds, more PCPs are being marketed as "green," "alternative," or "natural." We analyzed 19 green and 34 conventional PCP products obtained from a European store for seven parabens, TCC, and TCS. We found no statistically significant difference in the concentrations between green and conventional products. Only four products mentioned parabens in the list of ingredients; however, parabens were detected in 43 products, and at μg/g levels in seven PCPs. Methylparaben was typically present at the highest concentration, and one mascara exceeded the European legal concentration limit of methylparaben. Low concentrations of isopropyl-, isobutyl-, and benzylparabens, which are banned in the EU, were detected in 70% of PCPs. The cumulative estimated daily intake of parabens is an order of magnitude higher for people using only conventional products than those using green products exclusively. We propose that legislation be developed with more explicit rules on when a product can be advertised as "green" to aid consumers' choices.

Miniaturized Sample Preparation Methods to Simultaneously Determine the Levels of Glycols, Glycol Ethers and Their Acetates in Cosmetics

Two environmentally friendly methodologies based on ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE) and micro-matrix solid-phase dispersion (µMSPD) followed by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS) analysis are proposed for the first time for the simultaneous analysis of 17 glycols, glycol ethers, and their acetates in cosmetics. These sample preparation approaches result in efficient and low-cost extraction while employing small amounts of sample, with a low consumption of reagents and organic solvents. The use of a highly polar column allows for the direct analysis of the obtained extracts by GC-MS without a previous derivatization step, drastically reducing the sample preparation time and residues and thus complying with green analytical chemistry (GAC) principles. Both the UAE and µMSPD methodologies were validated in terms of linearity, accuracy, and precision, providing satisfactory results. LODs were found to be lower than 0.75 µg g−1, allowing the determination of trace levels of the forbidden target compounds. Finally, the validated methodologies were applied to real cosmetics and personal care products, showing suitability, and providing a reliable and useful tool for cosmetics control laboratories.

Recent Advances in Sample Preparation for Cosmetics and Personal Care Products Analysis

The use of cosmetics and personal care products is increasing worldwide. Their high matrix complexity, together with the wide range of products currently marketed under different forms imply a challenge for their analysis, most of them requiring a sample pre-treatment step before analysis. Classical sample preparation methodologies involve large amounts of organic solvents as well as multiple steps resulting in large time consumption. Therefore, in recent years, the trends have been moved towards the development of simple, sustainable, and environmentally friendly methodologies in two ways: (i) the miniaturization of conventional procedures allowing a reduction in the consumption of solvents and reagents; and (ii) the development and application of sorbent- and liquid-based microextraction technologies to obtain a high analyte enrichment, avoiding or significantly reducing the use of organic solvents. This review provides an overview of analytical methodology during the last ten years, placing special emphasis on sample preparation to analyse cosmetics and personal care products. The use of liquid–liquid and solid–liquid extraction (LLE, SLE), ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE), solid-phase extraction (SPE), pressurized liquid extraction (PLE), matrix solid-phase extraction (MSPD), and liquid- and sorbent-based microextraction techniques will be reviewed. The most recent advances and future trends including the development of new materials and green solvents will be also addressed.

High-Resolution Mass Spectrometry for the Comprehensive Characterization of Plant-Pigment-Based Tattoos and Dyes Formulations

There has been little research on emerging natural-pigment-based temporary tattoos and their constituents so far. This study focused on the characterization of natural henna and jagua tattoos and dyes in commercial samples. Sample manipulation and treatment were minimal to analyze natural pigments as they are marketed. The characterization of active compounds was performed by ultra-high-performance liquid chromatography coupled with quadrupole time-of-flight mass spectrometry (UHPLC-QTOF-MS). A novel untargeted characterization was also applied for these types of samples, searching for compounds ranging from the original ingredients to other additives of interest they may contain. The fact that these products may also be a source of unlabelled allergens was considered. This work showed that not all of the 34 samples analyzed contained their characteristic active ingredients, and in addition, 70 substances of a different nature were found. Therefore, a rapid and high-throughput methodology has been developed for the identification of the components of these dyes, providing a necessary approach for quality control or identification of suspicious substances.

Multi-Target Strategy to Uncover Unexpected Compounds in Rinse-Off and Leave-On Cosmetics

The wide range and complexity of cosmetic formulations currently available on the market poses a challenge from an analytical point of view. In addition, during cosmetics manufacture, impurities coming from raw materials or formed by reaction of different organic compounds present in the formulation may be present. Their identification is mandatory to assure product quality and consumer health. In this work, micro-matrix solid-phase dispersion (μMSPD) is proposed as a multi-target sample preparation strategy to analyze a wide number of unexpected families of compounds including polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs), pesticides, plasticizers, nitrosamines, alkylphenols (APs), and alkylphenol ethoxylates (APEOs). Analytical determination was performed by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS) for the determination of 51 target compounds in a single run, whereas liquid chromatography tandem mass spectrometry (LC-MS/MS) was employed for the analysis of six APs and APEOs. Both methodologies were successfully validated in terms of linearity, accuracy, and precision in leave-on and rinse-off cosmetics. Limits of detection (LODs) were calculated in the low ng g⁻¹, showing their suitability to determine trace levels of impurities and banned compounds with different chemical natures, providing useful tools to cosmetic control laboratories and companies.

Monitoring of Natural Pigments in Henna and Jagua Tattoos for Fake Detection

Temporary tattoos are a popular alternative to permanent ones. Some of them use natural pigments such as lawsone in the famous henna tattoos. Recently, jagua tattoos, whose main ingredients are genipin and geniposide, have emerged as an interesting option. This study was conducted to identify the presence and concentration of henna and jagua active ingredients (lawsone; genipin and geniposide, respectively) in commercial tattoo samples. Since natural pigments are often mixed with additives such as p-phenylenediamine (PPD) in the case of henna, PPD has been included in the study. Green and simple extraction methods based on vortex or ultrasound-assisted techniques have been tested. To determine the compounds of interest liquid chromatography (LC) with diode-array detection (DAD) has been applied; and PPD absence was confirmed by LC-QTOF (quadrupole-time of flight tandem mass spectrometry). This work demonstrated that only one out of 14 henna samples analyzed contained lawsone. For jaguas, genipin was found in all samples, while geniposide only in two. Therefore, quality control analysis on these semi-permanent tattoos is considered necessary to detect these ingredients in commercial mixtures, as well as to uncover possible fraud in products sold as natural henna.

Tracking Bacterial Spoilage in Cosmetics by a New Bioanalytical Approach: API-SPME-GC-MS to Monitor MVOCs

The main goal of this work was the use of the powerful solid-phase microextraction-gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (SPME-GC-MS) technique to unequivocally identify microbial volatile organic compounds (MVOCs) derived from the enzymatic activity produced during metabolic processes using analytical profile index (API) biochemical tests. Three bacteria were selected for this study: Escherichia coli, Proteus mirabilis, and Pseudomonas aeruginosa. They were inoculated and incubated to both API components and real cosmetics, as well as to a mixture of them. Specific MVOCs were successfully identified as biomarkers for each one of the studied microorganisms: Indole and 2-nitrophenol as Escherichia coli markers, 2-undecanone and phenylethyl alcohol as Proteus mirabilis-specific markers, and 1-undecene and 2′-aminoacetophenone as Pseudomonas aeruginosa ones. In addition, a high number of MVOCs were identified as general markers of bacterial presence. The results revealed that the MVOCs’ formation is highly subtract dependent. Therefore, the ultimate and most challenging objective is to establish a relationship between the identified MVOCs and the original compound present in the substrate. This work establishes the design and development of this original approach, and its practical application to the control of microbial contamination in real cosmetic samples.