New insights into the structure and hydration of a stratum corneum lipid model membrane by neutron diffraction

Mechanisms of penetration and diffusion of drugs and cosmetic actives across the human Stratum corneum

Based on the structure of the Stratum corneum (SC) the potential penetration/diffusion pathways of drugs and cosmetic actives through the SC are presented and discussed. The well-known lipophilic pathway across the SC is presented and relevant examples are used to show that highly lipophilic molecules such as glucocorticoids, coenzyme Q10 etc. are accumulated in the SC and penetrate into the inner liquid like layer of the SC lipid bilayer by lateral diffusion. The diffusion into and across the SC of highly hydrophilic drugs and active substances such as urea, amino acids and peptides is still under discussion. Another diffusion pathway for the highly hydrophilic molecules via the corneocytes and the corneodesmosomes is presented and discussed, the corneocytary diffusion pathway.

Delivery of small hydrophilic molecules across the stratum corneum: Identification of model systems and parameters to study topical delivery of free amino acids

Free amino acids (FAAs) constitute the largest component (∼40 %) of the so-called natural moisturizing factors of the skin. Their level declines in dry skin conditions and one strategy to overcome this problem may involve the topical delivery of FAAs through appropriate strategy. The objective of the present study was therefore to identify alternative skin models and study the corneocyte-water partition coefficients (KCOR/W) and permeation coefficient (KP) of 18 FAAs. The KCOR/W was studied using standard protocols and the permeation studies were conducted using Franz diffusion cell. The results indicate that the FAAs have high partitioning behavior to the corneocytes. The KCOR/W values of the human COR and that of pig ear skin were better correlated with each other than that of keratin isolated from chicken feathers. The presence of lipid in the stratum corneum (SC), initial concentration of the FAAs, and permeation enhancers affect the KCOR/W. The FAAs have low permeation into the SC which suggests the need for permeation enhancers in designing dosage form containing these compounds. Even though the investigated mathematical models show good prediction of the Kp values, better prediction could be obtained by considering factors such as the possible entrapment of the FAAs by the CORs.

Lipid Biomimetic Models as Simple Yet Complex Tools to Predict Skin Permeation and Drug-Membrane Biophysical Interactions

The barrier function of the skin is primarily determined by its outermost layer, the Stratum Corneum (SC). The SC consists of corneocytes embedded in a lipid matrix composed mainly of ceramides, cholesterol, and free fatty acids in equimolar proportions and is organised in a complex lamellar structure with different periodicities and lateral packings. This matrix provides a diffusion pathway across the SC for bioactive compounds that are administered to the skin. In this regard, and as the skin administration route has grown in popularity, there has been an increase in the use of lipid mixtures that closely resemble the SC lipid matrix, either for a deeper biophysical understanding or for pharmaceutical and cosmetic purposes. This review focuses on a systematic analysis of the main outcomes of using lipid mixtures as SC lipid matrix models for pharmaceutical and cosmetic purposes. Thus, a methodical evaluation of the main outcomes based on the SC structure is performed, as well as the main recent developments in finding suitable new in vitro tools for permeation testing based on lipid models.

Molecular interactions with bilayer membrane stacks using neutron and X-ray diffraction

Lamellar unit cell reconstruction from neutron and X-ray diffraction data provides information about the disposition and position of molecules and molecular segments with respect to the bilayer. When supplemented with the judicious use of molecular deuteration, the technique probes the molecular interactions and conformations within the bilayer membrane and the water layer which constitute the crystallographic unit cell. The perspective is model independent, and potentially, with a higher degree of resolution than is available with other techniques. In the case of neutron diffraction the measurement consists of carefully normalised diffracted intensity under conditions of contrast variation of the water layer. The subsequent Fourier reconstruction of the unit cell is made using the phase information from variation of peak intensities with contrast. Although the phase problem is not as easily solved for the corresponding X-ray measurements, an intuitive approach can often suffice. Here we discuss the two complimentary techniques as probes of scattering length density profiles of a bilayer, and how such a perspective provides information about the location and orientation of molecules within or between lipid bilayers. Within the basic paradigm of lamellar phases this method has provided, for example, detailed insights into the location and interaction of cryoprotectants and stress proteins, of the mechanisms of actions of viral proteins, antimicrobial compounds and drugs, and the underlying structure of the stratum corneum. In this paper we review these techniques and provide examples of the systems that have been examined. We finish with a future outlook on the use of these techniques to improve our understanding of the interactions of membranes with biomolecules.

The skin barrier: An extraordinary interface with an exceptional lipid organization

The barrier function of the skin is primarily located in the stratum corneum (SC), the outermost layer of the skin. The SC is composed of dead cells with highly organized lipid lamellae in the intercellular space. As the lipid matrix forms the only continuous pathway, the lipids play an important role in the permeation of compounds through the SC. The main lipid classes are ceramides (CERs), cholesterol (CHOL) and free fatty acids (FFAs). Analysis of the SC lipid matrix is of crucial importance in understanding the skin barrier function, not only in healthy skin, but also in inflammatory skin diseases with an impaired skin barrier. In this review we provide i) a historical overview of the steps undertaken to obtain information on the lipid composition and organization in SC of healthy skin and inflammatory skin diseases, ii) information on the role CERs, CHOL and FFAs play in the lipid phase behavior of very complex lipid model systems and how this knowledge can be used to understand the deviation in lipid phase behavior in inflammatory skin diseases, iii) knowledge on the role of both, CER subclasses and chain length distribution, on lipid organization and lipid membrane permeability in complex and simple model systems with synthetic CERs, CHOL and FFAs, iv) similarity in lipid phase behavior in SC of different species and complex model systems, and vi) future directions in modulating lipid composition that is expected to improve the skin barrier in inflammatory skin diseases.

Effect of sphingosine and phytosphingosine ceramide ratio on lipid arrangement and barrier function in skin lipid models

The lipids in the uppermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum (SC), play an important role in the skin barrier function. The three main subclasses in the SC lipid matrix are ceramides (CER), cholesterol, and free fatty acids. In inflammatory skin diseases, such as atopic dermatitis and psoriasis, the SC lipid composition is modulated compared to the composition in healthy SC. One of the main alterations is the molar ratio between the concentration of CER N-(tetracosanoyl)-sphingosine (CER NS) and CER N-(tetracosanoyl)-phytosphingosine (CER NP), which correlated with an impaired skin barrier function. In the present study, we investigated the impact of varying the CER NS:CER NP ratios on the lipid organization, lipid arrangement, and barrier functionality in SC lipid model systems. The results indicate that a higher CER NS:CER NP ratio as observed in diseased skin did not alter the lipid organization or lipid arrangement in the long periodicity phase encountered in SC. The trans-epidermal water loss, an indication of the barrier functionality, was significantly higher for the CER NS:CER NP 2:1 model (mimicking the ratio in inflammatory skin diseases) compared to the CER NS:CER NP 1:2 ratio (in healthy skin). These findings provide a more detailed insight into the lipid organization in both healthy and diseased skin and suggest that in vivo the molar ratio between CER NS:CER NP contributes to barrier impairment as well but might not be the main factor.

Biomimetic Stratum Corneum Liposome Models: Lamellar Organization and Permeability Studies

The stratum corneum (SC), the outer layer of the skin, plays a crucial role as a barrier protecting the underlying cells from external stress. The SC comprises three key components: ceramide (CER), free fatty acid (FFA), and cholesterol, along with small fractions of cholesterol sulfate and cholesterol ester. In order to gain a deeper understanding about the interdependence of the two major components, CER and FFA, on the organizational, structural, and functional properties of the SC layer, a library of SC lipid liposome (SCLL) models was developed by mixing CER (phytosphingosine or sphingosine), FFA (oleic acid, palmitic acid, or stearic acid), cholesterol, and cholesterol sulfate. Self-assembly of the SC lipids into lamellar phases was first confirmed by small-angle X-ray scattering. Short periodicity and long periodicity phases were identified for SCLLs containing phytosphingosines and sphingosine CERs, respectively. Furthermore, unsaturation in the CER acyl and FFA chains reduced the lipid conformational ordering and packing density of the liposomal bilayer, which were measured by differential scanning calorimetry and Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy. The introduction of unsaturation in the CER and/or FFA chains also impacted the lamellar integrity and permeability. This extensive library of SCLL models exhibiting physiologically relevant lamellar phases with defined structural and functional properties may potentially be used as a model system for screening pharmaceuticals or cosmetic agents.

Polymorphism, Nanostructures, and Barrier Properties of Ceramide-Based Lipid Films

Ceramides belong to sphingolipids, an important group of cellular and extracellular lipids. Their physiological functions range from cell signaling to participation in the formation of barriers against water evaporation. In the skin, they are essential for the permeability barrier, together with free fatty acids and cholesterol. We examined the periodical structure and permeability of lipid films composed of ceramides (Cer; namely, N-lignoceroyl 6-hydroxysphingosine, CerNH24, and N-lignoceroyl sphingosine, CerNS24), lignoceric acid (LIG; 24:0), and cholesterol (Chol). X-ray diffraction experiments showed that the CerNH24-based samples form either a short lamellar phase (SLP, d ∼ 5.4 nm) or a medium lamellar phase (MLP, d = 10.63-10.78 nm) depending on the annealing conditions. The proposed molecular arrangement of the MLP based on extended Cer molecules also agreed with the relative neutron scattering length density profiles obtained from the neutron diffraction data. The presence of MLP increased the lipid film permeability to the lipophilic model permeant (indomethacin) relative to the CerNS24-based control samples and the samples that had the same lipid composition but formed an SLP. Thus, the arrangement of lipids in various nanostructures is responsive to external conditions during sample preparation. This polymorphic behavior directly affects the barrier properties, which could also be (patho)physiologically relevant.

Lycopene, but not zeaxanthin, serves as a skeleton for the formation of an orthorhombic organization of intercellular lipids within the lamellae in the stratum corneum: Molecular dynamics simulations of the hydrated ceramide NS bilayer model

Carotenoids play an important role in the protection of biomembranes against oxidative damage. Their function depends on the surroundings and the organization of the lipid membrane they are embedded in. Carotenoids are located parallel or perpendicular to the surface of the lipid bilayer. The influence of carotenoids on the organization of the lipid bilayer in the stratum corneum has not been thoroughly considered. Here, the orientation of the exemplary cutaneous carotenoids lycopene and zeaxanthin in a hydrated ceramide NS24 bilayer model and the influence of carotenoids on the lateral organization of the lipid bilayer model were studied by means of molecular dynamics simulations for 32 °C and 37 °C. The results confirm that lycopene is located parallel and zeaxanthin perpendicular to the surface of the lipid bilayer. The lycopene-loaded lipid bilayer appeared to have a strong orthorhombic organization, while zeaxanthin-loaded and pure lipid bilayers were organized in a disordered hexagonal-like and liquid-like state, respectively. The effect is stronger at 32 °C compared to 37 °C based on p-values. Therefore, it was assumed that carotenoids without hydroxyl polar groups in their structure facilitate the formation of the orthorhombic organization of lipids, which provides the skin barrier function. It was shown that the distance between carotenoid atoms matched the distance between atoms in the lipids, indicating that parallel located carotenoids without hydroxyl groups serve as a skeleton for lipid membranes inside the lamellae. The obtained results provide reasonable prediction of the overall qualitative properties of lipid model systems and show the importance of parallel-oriented carotenoids in the development and maintenance of the skin barrier function.

Phytosphingosine ceramide mainly localizes in the central layer of the unique lamellar phase of skin lipid model systems

Understanding the lipid arrangement within the skin's outermost layer, the stratum corneum (SC), is important for advancing knowledge on the skin barrier function. The SC lipid matrix consists of ceramides (CERs), cholesterol, and free fatty acids, which form unique crystalline lamellar phases, referred to as the long periodicity phase (LPP) and short periodicity phases. As the SC lipid composition is complex, lipid model systems that mimic the properties of native SC are used to study the SC lipid organization and molecular arrangement. In previous studies, such lipid models were used to determine the molecular organization in the trilayer structure of the LPP unit cell. The aim of this study was to examine the location of CER N-(tetracosanoyl)-phytosphingosine (CER NP) in the unit cell of this lamellar phase and compare its position with CER N-(tetracosanoyl)-sphingosine (CER NS). We selected CER NP as it is the most prevalent CER subclass in the human SC, and its location in the LPP is not known. Our neutron diffraction results demonstrate that the acyl chain of CER NP was positioned in the central part of the trilayer structure, with a fraction also present in the outer layers, the same location as determined for the acyl chain of CER NS. In addition, our Fourier transformed infrared spectroscopy results are in agreement with this molecular arrangement, suggesting a linear arrangement for the CER NS and CER NP. These findings provide more detailed insight into the lipid organization in the SC lipid matrix.

Using molecular simulation to understand the skin barrier

Skin's effectiveness as a barrier to permeation of water and other chemicals rests almost entirely in the outermost layer of the epidermis, the stratum corneum (SC), which consists of layers of corneocytes surrounded by highly organized lipid lamellae. As the only continuous path through the SC, transdermal permeation necessarily involves diffusion through these lipid layers. The role of the SC as a protective barrier is supported by its exceptional lipid composition consisting of ceramides (CERs), cholesterol (CHOL), and free fatty acids (FFAs) and the complete absence of phospholipids, which are present in most biological membranes. Molecular simulation, which provides molecular level detail of lipid configurations that can be connected with barrier function, has become a popular tool for studying SC lipid systems. We review this ever-increasing body of literature with the goals of (1) enabling the experimental skin community to understand, interpret and use the information generated from the simulations, (2) providing simulation experts with a solid background in the chemistry of SC lipids including the composition, structure and organization, and barrier function, and (3) presenting a state of the art picture of the field of SC lipid simulations, highlighting the difficulties and best practices for studying these systems, to encourage the generation of robust reproducible studies in the future. This review describes molecular simulation methodology and then critically examines results derived from simulations using atomistic and then coarse-grained models.

Multiscale Simulation of Ternary Stratum Corneum Lipid Mixtures: Effects of Cholesterol Composition

Molecular dynamics simulations of mixtures of the ceramide nonhydroxy-sphingosine (NS), cholesterol, and a free fatty acid are performed to gain molecular-level understanding of the structure of the lipids found in the stratum corneum layer of skin. A new coarse-grained force field for cholesterol was developed using the multistate iterative Boltzmann inversion (MS-IBI) method. The coarse-grained cholesterol force field is compatible with previously developed coarse-grained force fields for ceramide NS, free fatty acids, and water and validated against atomistic simulations of these lipids using the CHARMM force field. Self-assembly simulations of multilayer structures using these coarse-grained force fields are performed, revealing that a large fraction of the ceramides adopt extended conformations, which cannot occur in the single bilayer in water structures typically studied using molecular simulation. Cholesterol fluidizes the membrane by promoting packing defects, and an increase in cholesterol content is found to reduce the bilayer thickness due to an increase in interdigitation of the C₂₄ lipid tails, consistent with experimental observations. Using a reverse-mapping procedure, a self-assembled coarse-grained multilayer system is used to construct an equivalent structure with atomistic resolution. Simulations of this atomistic structure are found to closely agree with experimentally derived neutron scattering length density profiles. Significant interlayer hydrogen bonding is observed in the inner layers of the atomistic multilayer structure that are not found in the outer layers in contact with water or in equivalent bilayer structures. This work highlights the importance of simulating multilayer structures, as compared to the more commonly studied bilayer systems, to enable more appropriate comparisons with multilayer experimental membranes. These results also provide validation of the efficacy of the MS-IBI derived coarse-grained force fields and the framework for multiscale simulation.

Skin lipids in health and disease: A review

Our skin is the interface between us and our environment - a flexible barrier that has evolved for protection, immunity, regulation and sensation. Once regarded as inert, we now know that it is a dynamic environment. Skin lipids are crucial to the structure and function of skin. From deep in the hypodermis, through the ceramide-rich epidermis, to the lipids of the skin surface, there are a vast array of different lipids with important roles to play. This review firstly discusses the lipid composition of human skin and secondly, changes that have been found in skin lipid composition in different skin diseases. Further research into skin lipids facilitated by ever-improving methodologies will no doubt generate new knowledge, paving the way for diagnosis, prevention and treatment of skin disorders and diseases.

State of the Art in Stratum Corneum Research. Part II: Hypothetical Stratum Corneum Lipid Matrix Models

This review is the second part of a series which presents the state of the art in stratum corneum (SC) lipid matrix (LM) research in depth. In this part, the various hypothetical models which were developed to describe the structure and function of the SC LM as the skin's barrier will be discussed. New as well as a cumulative assortment of older results which change the view on the different models are considered to conclude how well the different models are holding up today. As a final conclusion, a model, factoring in as much of the known data as possible, is concluded, unifying the varying different models into one which can be developed further, as new results are found in the future. So far, the model is described with a single crystalline or gel-like phase with a certain amount of nanocrystallites of concentrated ceramides (CERs) and free fatty acids and more fluid nanodomains caused by a fluidizing effect of the cholesterol. These domains are dynamically resolved and reformed and do not impair the barrier function. The chain conformation is not completely clear yet; however, an equilibrium of fully extended and hairpin-folded CERs with ratios depending on the properties of each individual CER species is proposed as most likely. An overlapping middle layer as described for the tri-layer model in part I of this series would be present for both conformations. The macroscopic broad-narrow-broad layering, observed in electron micrographs, is explained by an external templating by the lipid envelope, and an internal templating by short and long lipid chains each preferentially show a homophilic association, forming thicker and thinner bilayers, respectively. The degree of influence of the very long ω-hydroxy-CERs is discussed as well.

Development and application of coarse-grained MARTINI model of skin lipid ceramide [AP]

Stratum corneum (SC), the outermost layer of the skin, contains large variety of lipids, endowing them with the amphiphilic properties, needed to fulfil their key role in skin's barrier function. The individual role of lipid types in the barrier function is difficult to understand due to the immense heterogeneity and complexity of the lipid's organization within the SC. The lipid organization is being explored using both computational (molecular dynamics simulations) and experimental (neutron diffraction) techniques. Even though atomistic simulations provide unprecedented atomic level details, the major limitation is time and length scale that can be achieved with decent computational facility. Alternatively, coarse-grain (CG) models are currently being used to capture physics at bigger time and length scale without losing essential underlined structural information. In this study, a CG model of α-hydroxy phytosphingosines (CER[AP]) is developed based on philosophy of MARTINI force field. At first, the model is validated with various atomistic simulations and available experimental data. Later on, the model's compatibility with other major skin lipids, cholesterol, and free fatty acid (palmitic acid) is checked by simulating a mixture of lipid multilayer in presence and absence of water. The developed model of CER[AP] is able to predict key structural properties within the acceptable error limits. The phenomena of ceramide conformation transformation, cholesterol flip-flop, and specificity of lipid arrangement within the multilayered systems is observed during the simulation. This signifies the importance of model in capturing higher order structural transformations.

The effect of hydrophilic penetration/diffusion enhancer on stratum corneum lipid models: Part II*: DMSO

To optimize dermal and transdermal administration of drugs, the barrier function of the skin, particularly the stratum corneum (SC), needs to be reduced reversibly. For this purpose, penetration/diffusion enhancers such as DMSO can be applied. However, there is the question whether DMSO is an aggressive penetration/diffusion enhancer in pharmaceutical and cosmetical relevant concentrations? Until now, it is unclear if this penetration/diffusion enhancement is caused by an interaction with the SC lipid matrix or related to effects within the corneocytes. Therefore, the effects of the hydrophilic enhancer DMSO on SC models with different dimensionality ranging from bilayers (liposomes) via oligo-layers to multilayers have been investigated in this study. The effects of DMSO should be compared to that of other relevant hydrophilic enhancers such as urea and taurine. An innovative spectrum of methods was applied to ascertain the mode of action of DMSO in relevant concentrations on a molecular scale. The experiments reveal that there is no specific interaction of 10% and 30% DMSO solutions with the SC model systems. Hence, if DMSO is applied in pharmaceutically and cosmetically relevant concentrations, it has no influence on the SC model systems used. Neither an additional water uptake in the head group region nor a decrease of the lipid chain packing density have been observed. The leakage studies on liposomes show that 10% DMSO is causing just a very slight leakage of 8%, lower than the leakage of 19.4% caused by 10% urea (Müller et al., 2016). Consequently, the interactions of DMSO with the SC model lipids used are very low in concentrations of 10% and 30%, respectively. Since the lipid composition in native SC lipid matrix is far more complex than this model mixture, the results can not be directly transferred to the native SC lipid matrix. However, the outcome of this study, together with various findings in the literature give rise to the assumption that the enhancing effect of DMSO concerning the diffusion of relevant hydrophilic drugs and actives appears to be realized via the corneocytes.

Probing the interactions among sphingosine and phytosphingosine ceramides with non- and alpha-hydroxylated acyl chains in skin lipid model membranes

Ceramides (Cers) are significant constituents of the stratum corneum (SC), the uppermost skin layer responsible for skin barrier properties. Cers are a heterogeneous group of lipids whose mutual interactions are still unclear. To better understand these interactions, we characterized model membranes containing stearic acid, cholesterol, cholesterol sulfate and one or more of the following ceramides: N-stearoyl-sphingosine (CerNS), N-stearoyl-phytosphingosine (CerNP) and N-(2-hydroxy)stearoyl-phytosphingosine (CerAP). Small angle X-ray scattering and FTIR spectroscopy were used to study lipid arrangement, phase separation and thermotropic behaviour. In the one-Cer systems, the membranes with CerNP showed strong hydrogen bonding and significant phase separation, even after phase transition, while the systems containing CerAP and CerNS had increased lipid miscibility. The multi-Cer systems exhibited different behaviour. In particular, the membrane containing all three Cers was a highly miscible system with narrow one-step phase transition, which, of all the studied samples, occurred at the lowest temperatures. Our results show that even a small variation in Cer structure results in substantially different phase behaviour, which is further affected by the presence of other Cer subclasses. Interestingly, the phase behaviour of the most complex three-Cer system was simpler than that of the others, highlighting the importance of lipid diversity in real SC.

Structural and barrier properties of the skin ceramide lipid bilayer: a molecular dynamics simulation study

Skin provides excellent protection against the harsh external environment and foreign substances. The lipid matrix of the stratum corneum, which contains various kinds of ceramides, plays a major role in the barrier function of the skin. Here we report a study of the effects of ceramide type on the structural and transport properties of ceramide bilayers using molecular dynamics (MD) simulations. Specifically, the effects of headgroup chemistry (number and positions of hydroxyl groups) and tail structure (unsaturation of the sphingoid moiety) on the structural and transport properties of various ceramide bilayers at 310 K were analyzed. Theoretical results for structural properties such as area per lipid, bilayer thickness, lateral arrangement, order parameter, and hydrogen bonding are reported here and compared with corresponding experimental data. Our study revealed that the presence of a double bond disrupts the bilayer packing, which leads to a low area compressibility modulus, a large area per lipid, and low bilayer thickness. Furthermore, the effect of structural changes on water permeation was studied using steered MD simulations. Water permeation was found to be influenced by headgroup polarity, chain packing, and the ability of the water to hydrogen bond with the ceramides. The molecular-level information obtained from the current study should aid the design of mixed bilayer systems with desired properties and provide the basis for the development of higher order coarse-grained models.

Effect of DMSO, urea and ethanol on hydration of stratum corneum model membrane based on short-chain length ceramide [AP]

Hydration of oriented multilamellar membrane based on ceramide [AP] in the DMSO, urea and ethanol aqueous solutions at various solute concentrations was investigated by neutron diffraction. Neither urea nor DMSO influence the repeat distance of the membrane and internal structure of bilayer at their mole concentration of up to 0.15 and 0.10, respectively. The d-spacing reduction effect of both compounds was observed at their concentrations of 0.2 for urea and 0.2 and 0.4 for DMSO. Compared to hydration in the pure water, both urea and DMSO slow down the swelling process, and this slowdown is more pronounced with increasing in their concentration. At concentration of 0.2, urea and DMSO induce the slight phase separation of the fully hydrated samples; at the highest used concentration of 0.6, DMSO induces the strong time-depend separation of the sample probably due to fluidization of lipid bilayers. Ethanol at a used molar concentration of 0.03 leads to dissolution of the sample.

Thermal-history-dependent Phase Behavior of Ceramide Molecular Assembly in a UV-curable Acrylic Adhesive Resin

The structure and thermal behavior of a synthetic D-erythro-ceramide [NDS], (2S,3R)-2-octadecanoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol (CER), molecular assembly in a UV-curable acrylic adhesive resin (acResin^®) were investigated by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), polarized-light microscopy, and X-ray diffraction (XRD). CER in the resin was found to exhibit a thermal-history-dependent polymorphic phase behavior that is similar but not identical to that observed for pure CER. The melting temperatures of the in-resin CER samples were lower than those of pure CER samples. Maintaining a melt-quenched in-resin CER sample at 60°C for 5-6 days induced a transformation from a metastable phase to a stable phase, where CER formed an ordered lamellar structure. The lamellar structure differed from that observed in the stable solid phase of pure CER samples. The findings of this study are expected to be useful for developing new medical tapes or sheets with ceramides added to the adhesives to protect skin.

Nanocrystals for improved dermal drug delivery

Nanocrystals are composed of 100% active and possess an increased aqueous solubility and dissolution velocity when compared to larger sized materials. Nanocrystals can be used to improve the bioavailability of poorly soluble actives not only for oral, but also for topical application. In this study nanocrystals of different sizes were produced and the influence of size on dermal penetration was investigated. The influence of different excipients and vehicles on the penetration efficacy upon dermal application was also investigated. Results confirm that dermal penetration of poorly soluble actives increases with decreasing size of the nanocrystals. Unexpectedly, it was observed that many classical penetration enhancers failed to promote the penetration of actives from nanocrystals. Also hydrogels were found to be non-suitable vehicles for the formulation of nanocrystals. As most suitable vehicles for nanocrystals oleogels and creams were identified.

Molecular dynamics simulations of stratum corneum lipid mixtures: A multiscale perspective

The lipid matrix of the stratum corneum (SC) layer of skin is essential for human survival; it acts as a barrier to prevent rapid dehydration while keeping potentially hazardous material outside the body. While the composition of the SC lipid matrix is known, the molecular-level details of its organization are difficult to infer experimentally, hindering the discovery of structure-property relationships. To this end, molecular dynamics simulations, which give molecular-level resolution, have begun to play an increasingly important role in understanding these relationships. However, most simulation studies of SC lipids have focused on preassembled bilayer configurations, which, owing to the slow dynamics of the lipids, may influence the final structure and hence the calculated properties. Self-assembled structures would avoid this dependence on the initial configuration, however, the size and length scales involved make self-assembly impractical to study with atomistic models. Here, we report on the development of coarse-grained models of SC lipids designed to study self-assembly. Building on previous work, we present the interactions between the headgroups of ceramide and free fatty acid developed using the multistate iterative Boltzmann inversion method. Validation of the new interactions is performed with simulations of preassembled bilayers and good agreement between the atomistic and coarse-grained models is found for structural properties. The self-assembly of mixtures of ceramide and free fatty acid is investigated and both bilayer and multilayer structures are found to form. This work therefore represents a necessary step in studying SC lipid systems on multiple time and length scales.

Investigation of a CER[NP]- and [AP]-Based Stratum Corneum Modeling Membrane System: Using Specifically Deuterated CER Together with a Neutron Diffraction Approach

Neutron diffraction was used as a tool to investigate the lamellar as well as molecular nanostructure of ceramide-[NP]/ceramide-[AP]/cholesterol/lignoceric acid model systems with a nativelike 2:1 ratio and a 1:2 ratio to study the influence of the ceramide-[AP]. By using mixtures together with cholesterol and free fatty acids as well as a humidity and temperature chamber while measuring, natural conditions were simulated as closely as possible. Despite its simplicity, the system simulated the native stratum corneum lipid matrix fairly closely, showing a similar lamellar thickness with a repeat distance of 5.45 ± 0.1 nm and a similar arrangement with overlapping long C24 chains. Furthermore, despite the very minor chemical difference between ceramide-[NP] and ceramide-[AP], which is only a single OH group, it was possible to demonstrate substantial differences between the structural influence of the two ceramides. Ceramide-[AP] could be concluded to be arranged in such a way that its C24 chain in both ratios is somehow shorter than that of ceramide-[NP], not overlapping as much with the opposite lamellar leaflet. Furthermore, in the unnatural 1:2 ratio, the higher ceramide-[AP] content causes an increased tilt of the ceramide acyl chains. This leads to even less overlapping within the lamellar midplane, whereas the repeat distance stays the same as for the ceramide-[NP]-rich system. In this nativelike 2:1 ratio, the chains are arranged mostly straight, and the long C24 chains show a broad overlapping region in the lamellar midplane.

Malusides, novel glucosylceramides isolated from apple pomace (Malus domestica)

Three new glucosylceramides (GluCers) named malusides I-III (1-3) were isolated from apple (cultivars of Malus domestica) pomace (fruit material remaining after juice extraction). An unusual oxo/hydroxy group pattern within the sphingadienine (d18:2) type sphingoid base was observed. All compounds contained the same α-hydroxylated fatty acid (h16:0) and a β-D-glucose moiety. Their structures were assigned on the basis of one- and two-dimensional (1D and 2D) nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) spectroscopic analyses and mass spectrometry (MS) measurements.

Simplified stratum corneum model membranes for studying the effects of permeation enhancers

The activity of transdermal permeation enhancers is usually evaluated in vitro on human or animal skin, but skin samples can be hard to source and highly variable. To provide a more consistent basis for evaluating the activity of permeation enhancers, we prepared relatively simple and inexpensive artificial membranes that imitate the stratum corneum (SC) lipid matrix. Our membranes were composed of stearic acid, cholesterol, cholesterol sulfate and a ceramide (CER) component consisting of N-2-hydroxystearoyl phytosphingosine (CER[AP]) and/or N-stearoyl phytosphingosine (CER[NP]). First, the permeation of theophylline (TH) and indomethacin (IND) through these membranes was compared with their permeation through porcine skin. Because the mixed CER[AP]/[NP] membrane gave the closest results to skin, this membrane was then used to test the effects of two permeation enhancers: N-dodecyl azepan-2-one (Azone) and (S)-N-acetylproline dodecyl ester (L-Pro2). Both enhancers significantly increased the flux of TH and IND through the skin and, even more markedly, through the lipid membrane, L-Pro2 having a stronger effect than Azone. Thus, our simplified model of the SC lipid membrane based on phytosphingosine CERs appears to be suitable for mimicking skin permeation.

Synthesis of specific deuterated derivatives of the long chained stratum corneum lipids [EOS] and [EOP] and characterization using neutron scattering

The synthesis of specific deuterated derivatives of the long chained ceramides [EOS] and [EOP] is described. The structural differences with respect to the natural compounds are founded in the substitution of the 2 double bonds containing linoleic acid by a palmitic acid branched with a methyl group in 10-position. The specific deuteration is introduced both in the branched and in the terminal methyl group, which was realized by common methods of successive deuteration of carboxylic groups in 3 steps. These modified fatty acids resp. the corresponding ceramides [EOS] and [EOP] were prepared for neutron scattering investigations. First results of these investigations were presented in this manuscript showing that the deuterated compounds could be detected in the stratum corneum lipid model membranes. The deuterated ceramides [EOS] and [EOP] are valuable tools to investigate the influence of these long chained ceramide species on the nanostructure of stratum corneum lipid model membranes.

In vivo confocal Raman microscopic determination of depth profiles of the stratum corneum lipid organization influenced by application of various oils

BACKGROUND

The intercellular lipids (ICL) of stratum corneum (SC) play an important role in maintaining the skin barrier function. The lateral and lamellar packing order of ICL in SC is not homogenous, but rather depth-dependent.

OBJECTIVE

This study aimed to analyze the influence of the topically applied mineral-derived (paraffin and petrolatum) and plant-derived (almond oil and jojoba oil) oils on the depth-dependent ICL profile ordering of the SC in vivo.

METHOD

Confocal Raman microscopy (CRM), a unique tool to analyze the depth profile of the ICL structure non-invasively, is employed to investigate the interaction between oils and human SC in vivo.

RESULTS

The results show that the response of SC to oils' permeation varies in the depths. All oils remain in the upper layers of the SC (0-20% of SC thickness) and show predominated differences of ICL ordering from intact skin. In these depths, skin treated with plant-derived oils shows more disordered lateral and lamellar packing order of ICL than intact skin (p<0.05). In the intermediate layers of SC (30-50% of SC thickness), the oils do not influence the lateral packing order of SC ICL (p>0.1), except plant-derived oils at the depth 30% of SC thickness. In the deeper layers of the SC (60-100% of SC thickness), no difference between ICL lateral packing order of the oil-treated and intact skin can be observed, except that at the depths of 70-90% of the SC thickness, where slight changes with more disorder states are measured for plant-derived oil treated skin (p<0.1), which could be explained by the penetration of free fatty acid fractions in the deep-located SC areas.

CONCLUSION

Both oil types remain in the superficial layers of the SC (0-20% of the SC thickness). Skin treated with mineral- and plant-derived oils shows significantly higher disordered lateral and lamellar packing order of ICL in these layers of the SC compared to intact skin. Plant-derived oils significantly changed the ICL ordering in the depths of 30% and 70-90% of the SC thickness, which is likely due to the penetration of free fatty acids in the deeper layers of the SC.

Potential Applications of Phyto-Derived Ceramides in Improving Epidermal Barrier Function

The outer most layer of the skin, the stratum corneum, consists of corneocytes which are coated by a cornified envelope and embedded in a lipid matrix of ordered lamellar structure. It is responsible for the skin barrier function. Ceramides (CERs) are the backbone of the intercellular lipid membranes. Skin diseases such as atopic dermatitis and psoriasis and aged skin are characterized by dysfunctional skin barrier and dryness which are associated with reduced levels of CERs. Previously, the effectiveness of supplementation of synthetic and animal-based CERs in replenishing the depleted natural skin CERs and restoring the skin barrier function have been investigated. Recently, however, the barrier function improving effect of plant-derived CERs has attracted much attention. Phyto-derived CERs (phytoCERs) are preferable due to their assumed higher safety as they are mostly isolated from dietary sources. The beneficial effects of phytoCER-based oral dietary supplements for skin hydration and skin barrier reinforcement have been indicated in several studies involving animal models as well as human subjects. Ingestible dietary supplements containing phytoCERs are also widely available on the market. Nonetheless, little effort has been made to investigate the potential cosmetic applications of topically administered phytoCERs. Therefore, summarizing the foregoing investigations and identifying the gap in the scientific data on plant-derived CERs intended for skin-health benefits are of paramount importance. In this review, an attempt is made to synthesize the information available in the literature regarding the effects of phytoCER-based oral dietary supplements on skin hydration and barrier function with the underlying mechanisms.

Phase separation in ceramide[NP] containing lipid model membranes: neutron diffraction and solid-state NMR

The stratum corneum is the outermost layer of the skin and protects the organism against external influences as well as water loss. It consists of corneocytes embedded in a mixture of ceramides, fatty acids, and cholesterol in a molar ratio of roughly 1 : 1 : 1. The unique structural and compositional arrangement of these stratum corneum lipids is responsible for the skin barrier properties. Many studies investigated the organization of these barrier lipids and, in particular, the exact conformation of ceramides. However, so far no consensus has been reached. In this study, we investigate a model system comprised of N-(non-hydroxy-tetracosanoyl)-phytosphingosine/cholesterol/tetracosanoic acid (CER[NP]-C24/CHOL/TA) at a 1 : 1 : 1 molar ratio using neutron diffraction and ²H solid-state NMR spectroscopy at temperatures from 25 °C to 80 °C. Deuterated variants of all three lipid components of the model system were used to enable their separate investigation in the NMR spectra and quantification of the amount of molecules in each phase. Neutron scattering experiments show the coexistence of two lipid phases at low temperatures with repeat spacings of 54.2 Å and 43.0 Å at a physiological skin temperature of 32 °C. They appear to be indistinguishable in the ²H NMR spectra as both phases are crystalline and ceramide molecules do not rotate around their long axis on a microsecond timescale. The evolution of these phases upon heating is followed and with increasing temperature fluid and even isotropically mobile molecules are observed. A model of the organization of the lamellar phases is proposed in which the thicker phase consists of CER[NP]-C24 in a hairpin conformation mixed with CHOL and TA, while the phase with a repeat spacing of 43.0 Å contains CER[NP]-C24 in a V-shape conformation.

A depth-dependent profile of the lipid conformation and lateral packing order of the stratum corneum in vivo measured using Raman microscopy

The intercellular lipid structure of the stratum corneum (SC) plays a key role in skin barrier function. A depth profile of the intercellular lipid conformation and the lipid lateral packing order were measured in vivo in the human SC using confocal Raman microscopy. The depth profiles of the 2880 cm(-1)/2850 cm(-1) peak ratio intensity, which represent the C-H stretching and lateral packing order of lipids, and the 1080 cm(-1)/(1130 cm(-1) + 1060 cm(-1)) peak ratio, which represents the C-C skeleton vibration and trans-gauche conformation order of lipids, were investigated. The influence of keratin on the lipid peaks at 2850 cm(-1) and 2880 cm(-1) was excluded by the developed mathematical algorithm. The results show that the trans-conformation and lateral packing order of the intercellular lipids reach their maximum value in the SC at 20-40% of its depth and then decrease towards the stratum granulosum. These results show that at a depth of 20-40% (normally corresponding to a depth of 4-8 μm) the SC exhibits the most ordered lipids and therefore the highest skin barrier function. The lateral packing of lipids is more disordered on the surface and in the deeper parts of the SC, which may be associated with a reduced skin barrier function.

Effect of monoglycerides and fatty acids on a ceramide bilayer

Monoglycerides and unsaturated fatty acids, naturally present in trace amounts in the stratum corneum (top layer of skin) lipid matrix, are commonly used in pharmaceutical, cosmetic and health care formulations. However, a detailed molecular understanding of how the oil additives get incorporated into the skin lipids from topical application and, once incorporated, how they affect the properties and integrity of the lipid matrix remains unexplored. Using ceramide 2 bilayers as skin lipid surrogates, we use a series of molecular dynamics simulations with six different natural oil ingredients at multiple concentrations to investigate the effect of the oils on the properties and stability of the bilayers. The six oils: monoolein, monostearin, monoelaidin, oleic acid, stearic acid and linoleic acid - all having the same length of the alkyl chain, C18, but a varying degree of saturation, allow us to systematically address the effect of unsaturation in the additives. Our results show that at low oil concentration (∼5%) the mixed bilayers containing any of the oils and ceramide 2 (CER2) become more rigid than pure CER2 bilayers due to more efficient lipid packing. Better packing also results in the formation of larger numbers of hydrogen bonds between the lipids, which occurs at the expense of the hydrogen bonds between lipids and water. The mixed bilayers with saturated or trans-unsaturated oils remain stable over the whole range of oil concentration. In contrast, the presence of the oils with at least one cis-double bond leads to bilayer instability and complete loss of bilayer structure at the oil content of about 50-65%. Two cis-double bonds in the lipid tail induce bilayer disruption at even lower concentration (∼30%). The mixed bilayers remain in the gel phase (without melting to a fluid phase) until the phase transition to a non-bilayer phase occurs. We also demonstrate that the stability of the bilayer strongly correlates with the order parameter of the lipid tails.

Stratum corneum lipid matrix: Location of acyl ceramide and cholesterol in the unit cell of the long periodicity phase

The extracellular lipid matrix in the skin's outermost layer, the stratum corneum, is crucial for the skin barrier. The matrix is composed of ceramides (CERs), cholesterol (CHOL) and free fatty acids (FFAs) and involves two lamellar phases: the short periodicity phase (SPP) and the long periodicity phase (LPP). To understand the skin barrier thoroughly, information about the molecular arrangement in the unit cell of these lamellar phases is paramount. Previously we examined the molecular arrangement in the unit cell of the SPP. Furthermore X-ray and neutron diffraction revealed a trilayer arrangement of lipids within the unit cell of the LPP [D. Groen et al., Biophysical Journal, 97, 2242-2249, 2009]. In the present study, we used neutron diffraction to obtain more details about the location of lipid (sub)classes in the unit cell of the LPP. The diffraction pattern revealed at least 8 diffraction orders of the LPP with a repeating unit of 129.6±0.5Å. To determine the location of lipid sub(classes) in the unit cell, samples were examined with either only protiated lipids or selectively deuterated lipids. The diffraction data obtained by means of D2O/H2O contrast variation together with a gradual replacement of one particular CER, the acyl CER, by its partly deuterated counterpart, were used to construct the scattering length density profiles. The acyl chain of the acyl CER subclass is located at a position of ~21.4±0.2Å from the unit cell centre of the LPP. The position and orientation of CHOL in the LPP unit cell were determined using tail and head-group deuterated forms of the sterol. CHOL is located with its head-group positioned ~26±0.2Å from the unit cell centre. This allows the formation of a hydrogen bond with the ester group of the acyl CER located in close proximity. Based on the positions of the deuterated moieties of the acyl CER, CHOL and the previously determined location of two other lipid subclasses [E.H. Mojumdar et al., Biophysical Journal, 108, 2670-2679, 2015], a molecular model is proposed for the unit cell of the LPP. In this model CHOL is located in the two outer layers of the LPP, while CER EOS is linking the two outer layers with the central lipid layers. Finally the two other lipid subclasses are predominantly located in the central layer of the LPP.

Structural characterization in mixed lipid membrane systems by neutron and X-ray scattering

Lipids membranes, the primary component of the living cell, involve collective behaviour of numerous interacting molecules. The rich morphology and complex phase diagram of the lipid systems require different strategies in describing bio-membranes in order to capture the essential properties of self-assembly processes as well as the underling molecular collective phenomena involved in biological functions. Among the experimental methods used, the scattering techniques such as small angle neutrons and X-rays scattering (SANS and SAXS) are probably the most important experimental approaches for the structural investigation of bio-membranes and mixed lipids complex systems. In this tutorial review we describe the main approaches employed in the investigation of lipid bio-membranes by means of the neutron and x-ray scattering techniques. While introducing the main structural properties of lipid bio-membranes we highlight the important role of lipid components in different biological functions of living organisms. This article is part of a Special Issue entitled "Science for Life" Guest Editor: Dr. Austen Angell, Dr. Salvatore Magazù and Dr. Federica Migliardo.

Skin lipids: localization of ceramide and fatty acid in the unit cell of the long periodicity phase

The lipid matrix of the skin's stratum corneum plays a key role in the barrier function, which protects the body from desiccation. The lipids that make up this matrix consist of ceramides, cholesterol, and free fatty acids, and can form two coexisting crystalline lamellar phases: the long periodicity phase (LPP) and the short periodicity phase (SPP). To fully understand the skin barrier function, information on the molecular arrangement of the lipids in the unit cell of these lamellar phases is very desirable. To determine this arrangement in previous studies, we examined the molecular arrangement of the SPP. In this study, neutron diffraction studies were performed to obtain information on the molecular arrangement of the LPP. The diffraction pattern reveals nine diffraction orders attributed to the LPP with a repeating unit of 129.4 ± 0.5 Å. Using D2O/H2O contrast variation, the scattering length density profiles were calculated for protiated samples and samples that included either the perdeuterated acyl chain of the most abundant ceramide or the most abundant perdeuterated fatty acid. Both perdeuterated chains are predominantly located in the central part of the unit cell with substantial interdigitation of the acyl chains in the unit cell center. However, a fraction of the perdeuterated chains is also located near the border of the unit cell with their acyl chains directing toward the center. This arrangement of lipids in the LPP unit cell corresponds with the location of their lipid headgroups at the border and also inside of the unit cell at a well-defined position (±21 Å from the unit cell center), indicative of a three-layer lipid arrangement within the 129.4 ± 0.5 Å repeating unit.

Ceramides with a pentadecasphingosine chain and short acyls have strong permeabilization effects on skin and model lipid membranes

The composition and organization of stratum corneum lipids play an essential role in skin barrier function. Ceramides represent essential components of this lipid matrix; however, the importance of the individual structural features in ceramides is not fully understood. To probe the structure-permeability relationships in ceramides, we prepared analogs of N-lignoceroylsphingosine with shortened sphingosine (15 and 12 carbons) and acyl chains (2, 4 and 6 carbons) and studied their behavior in skin and in model lipid membranes. Ceramide analogs with pentadecasphingosine (15C) chains were more barrier-perturbing than 12C- and 18C-sphingosine ceramides; the greatest effects were found with 4 to 6C acyls (up to 15 times higher skin permeability compared to an untreated control and up to 79 times higher permeability of model stratum corneum lipid membranes compared to native very long-chain ceramides). Infrared spectroscopy using deuterated lipids and X-ray powder diffraction showed surprisingly similar behavior of the short ceramide membranes in terms of lipid chain order and packing, phase transitions and domain formation. The high- and low-permeability membranes differed in their amide I band shape and lamellar organization. These skin and membrane permeabilization properties of some short ceramides may be explored, for example, for the rational design of permeation enhancers for transdermal drug delivery.

Coarse-grain simulations of skin ceramide NS with newly derived parameters clarify structure of melted phase

Ceramides are lipids that are involved in numerous biologically important structures (e.g., the stratum corneum and ceramide-rich platforms) and processes (e.g., signal transduction and membrane fusion), but their behavior is not fully understood. We report coarse-grain force field parameters for N-lignocerylsphingosine (ceramide NS, also known as ceramide 2) that are consistent with the Martini force field. These parameters were optimized for simulations in the gel phase and validated against atomistic simulations. Coarse-grained simulations with our parameters provide areas per lipid, membrane thicknesses, and electron density profiles that are in good agreement with atomistic simulations. Properties of the simulated membranes are compared with available experimental data. The obtained parameters were used to model the phase behavior of ceramide NS as a function of temperature and hydration. At low water content and above the main phase transition temperature, the bilayer melts into an irregular phase, which may correspond to the unstructured melted-chain phase observed in X-ray diffraction experiments. The developed parameters also reproduce the extended conformation of ceramide, which may occur in the stratum corneum. The parameters presented herein will facilitate studies on important complex functional structures such as the uppermost layer of the skin and ceramide-rich platforms in phospholipid membranes.

The physical chemistry of the stratum corneum lipids

This article summarizes the current knowledge of the composition, self-assembly, and molecular organization of the stratum corneum (SC) lipids, reviews the evidence connecting these parameters and the barrier properties of human skin, and outlines the immediate issues in the field of SC lipid research.

Fast cholesterol flip-flop and lack of swelling in skin lipid multilayers

Atomistic simulations were performed on hydrated model lipid multilayers that are representative of the lipid matrix in the outer skin (stratum corneum). We find that cholesterol transfers easily between adjacent leaflets belonging to the same bilayer via fast orientational diffusion (tumbling) in the inter-leaflet disordered region, while at the same time there is a large free energy cost against swelling. This fast flip-flop may play an important role in accommodating the variety of curvatures that would be required in the three dimensional arrangement of the lipid multilayers in skin, and for enabling mechanical or hydration induced strains without large curvature elastic costs.

Skin diseases associated with the depletion of stratum corneum lipids and stratum corneum lipid substitution therapy

The skin is the largest organ of the body, whose main function is to protect the body against the loss of physiologically important components as well as harmful environmental insults. From the inside to the outside, the skin comprises three major structural layers: the hypodermis, the dermis and the epidermis. The epidermis contains four different sublayers, the stratum corneum (SC), stratum granulosum, stratum spinosum and stratum basale, where the barrier function of the skin mainly lies in the outermost layer of the epidermis, the SC. The SC contains corneocytes that are embedded in a lipid matrix existing in the form of lipid bilayers. The lipid bilayers are formed mainly from ceramides, free fatty acids and cholesterol, constitute the only continuous pathway across the SC and are responsible for the barrier function of the skin. However, the depletion or disturbance of SC lipids in the SC leads to a perturbation of the barrier function of the skin, and, conversely, several skin diseases such as psoriasis and atopic dermatitis are associated with the depletion of these SC lipids. Therefore, it is of paramount importance to understand the interrelationship between the depletion of SC lipids and skin diseases as well as factors that affect the composition and organization of SC lipids in order to assess the potential benefit of a direct replacement of the missing SC lipids as a means of treating affected, aged or diseased skin.

Localization of cholesterol and fatty acid in a model lipid membrane: a neutron diffraction approach

The intercellular lipid matrix of the skin's stratum corneum serves to protect the body against desiccation and simultaneously limits the passage of drugs and other xenobiotics into the body. The matrix is made up of ceramides, free fatty acids, and cholesterol, which are organized as two coexisting crystalline lamellar phases. In studies reported here, we sought to use the technique of neutron diffraction, together with the device of isotopic (H/D) substitution, to determine the molecular architecture of the lamellar phase having a repeat distance of 53.9 ± 0.3 Å. Using hydrogenous samples as well as samples incorporating perdeuterated (C24:0) fatty acids and selectively deuterated cholesterol, the diffraction data obtained were used to construct neutron scattering length density profiles. By this means, the locations within the unit cell were determined for the cholesterol and fatty acids. The cholesterol headgroup was found to lie slightly inward from the unit cell boundary and the tail of the molecule located 6.2 ± 0.2 Å from the unit cell center. The fatty acid headgroups were located at the unit cell boundary with their acyl chains straddling the unit cell center. Based on these results, a molecular model is proposed for the arrangement of the lipids within the unit cell.