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Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) as a Cosmeceutical to Increase Dermal Collagen for Skin Antiaging Purposes: Emerging Combination Therapies. Antioxidants (Basel) 2022; 11:antiox11091663. [PMID: 36139737 PMCID: PMC9495646 DOI: 10.3390/antiox11091663] [Citation(s) in RCA: 27] [Impact Index Per Article: 13.5] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 07/27/2022] [Revised: 08/15/2022] [Accepted: 08/23/2022] [Indexed: 11/16/2022] Open
Abstract
Ascorbic acid (AA) is an essential nutrient and has great potential as a cosmeceutical that protects the health and beauty of the skin. AA is expected to attenuate photoaging and the natural aging of the skin by reducing oxidative stress caused by external and internal factors and by promoting collagen gene expression and maturation. In this review, the biochemical basis of AA associated with collagen metabolism and clinical evidence of AA in increasing dermal collagen and inhibiting skin aging were discussed. In addition, we reviewed emerging strategies that have been developed to overcome the shortcomings of AA as a cosmeceutical and achieve maximum efficacy. Because extracellular matrix proteins, such as collagen, have unique amino acid compositions, their production in cells is influenced by the availability of specific amino acids. For example, glycine residues occupy 1/3 of amino acid residues in collagen protein, and the supply of glycine can be a limiting factor for collagen synthesis. Experiments showed that glycinamide was the most effective among the various amino acids and amidated amino acids in stimulating collagen production in human dermal fibroblasts. Thus, it is possible to synergistically improve collagen synthesis by combining AA analogs and amino acid analogs that act at different stages of the collagen production process. This combination therapy would be useful for skin antiaging that requires enhanced collagen production.
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2
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Combination of Glycinamide and Ascorbic Acid Synergistically Promotes Collagen Production and Wound Healing in Human Dermal Fibroblasts. Biomedicines 2022; 10:biomedicines10051029. [PMID: 35625765 PMCID: PMC9138459 DOI: 10.3390/biomedicines10051029] [Citation(s) in RCA: 2] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 02/23/2022] [Revised: 04/18/2022] [Accepted: 04/27/2022] [Indexed: 11/16/2022] Open
Abstract
The purpose of this study is to present a novel strategy to enhance collagen production in cells. To identify amino acid analogs with excellent collagen production-enhancing effects, human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) were treated with 20 kinds of amidated amino acids and 20 kinds of free amino acids, individually at 1 mM. The results showed that glycinamide enhanced collagen production (secreted collagen level) most effectively. Glycine also enhanced collagen production to a lesser degree. However, other glycine derivatives, such as N-acetyl glycine, N-acetyl glycinamide, glycine methyl ester, glycine ethyl ester, and glycyl glycine, did not show such effects. Glycinamide increased type I and III collagen protein levels without affecting COL1A1 and COL3A1 mRNA levels, whereas transforming growth factor-β1 (TGF-β1, 10 ng mL−1) increased both mRNA and protein levels of collagens. Ascorbic acid (AA, 1 mM) increased COL1A1 and COL3A1 mRNA and collagen I protein levels. Unlike TGF-β1, AA and glycinamide did not increase the protein level of α-smooth muscle actin, a marker of differentiation of fibroblasts into myofibroblasts. The combination of AA and glycinamide synergistically enhanced collagen production and wound closure in HDFs to a level similar to that in cells treated with TGF-β1. AA derivatives, such as magnesium ascorbyl 3-phosphate (MAP), 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid, ascorbyl 2-O-glucoside, and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, enhanced collagen production, and the mRNA and protein levels of collagens at 1 mM, and their effects were further enhanced when co-treated with glycinamide. Among AA derivatives, MAP had a similar effect to AA in enhancing wound closure, and its effect was further enhanced by glycinamide. Other AA derivatives had different effects on wound closure. This study provides a new strategy to enhance cell collagen production and wound healing using glycinamide in combination with AA.
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3
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Cinnamic acid derivatives linked to arylpiperazines as novel potent inhibitors of tyrosinase activity and melanin synthesis. Eur J Med Chem 2022; 231:114147. [DOI: 10.1016/j.ejmech.2022.114147] [Citation(s) in RCA: 5] [Impact Index Per Article: 2.5] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 10/19/2021] [Revised: 01/10/2022] [Accepted: 01/18/2022] [Indexed: 12/14/2022]
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4
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Quintero-Cabello KP, Lugo-Flores MA, Rivera-Palafox P, Silva-Espinoza BA, González-Aguilar GA, Esqueda M, Gaitán-Hernández R, Ayala-Zavala JF. Antioxidant Properties and Industrial Uses of Edible Polyporales. J Fungi (Basel) 2021; 7:jof7030196. [PMID: 33803280 PMCID: PMC7998620 DOI: 10.3390/jof7030196] [Citation(s) in RCA: 3] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 01/28/2021] [Revised: 03/01/2021] [Accepted: 03/03/2021] [Indexed: 12/18/2022] Open
Abstract
The content of antioxidant compounds varies within fungal species, and the Polyporales order has been recognized for this property. Numerous antioxidant compounds have been identified in Polyporales fungi, including phenolic compounds, β-glucans, ergosterol, ergothioneine, vitamin C, and tocopherols. Each compound contributes differently to the antioxidant potential of fungi. Besides the health benefits for rural communities caused by fungi consumption, their antioxidant composition attracts the food, cosmetic, and pharmaceutical industries’ interest. In this context, the present review compiles, analyzes, and discusses the bioactive composition of edible fungi of the Polyporales order and its contribution to total antioxidant capacity.
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Affiliation(s)
- Karen P. Quintero-Cabello
- Centro de Investigacion en Alimentacion y Desarrollo, A.C., Carretera Gustavo Enrique Astiazaran Rosas, No. 46, Col. La Victoria, Hermosillo, Sonora CP. 83304, Mexico; (K.P.Q.-C.); (M.A.L.-F.); (P.R.-P.); (B.A.S.-E.); (G.A.G.-A.); (M.E.)
| | - Marco A. Lugo-Flores
- Centro de Investigacion en Alimentacion y Desarrollo, A.C., Carretera Gustavo Enrique Astiazaran Rosas, No. 46, Col. La Victoria, Hermosillo, Sonora CP. 83304, Mexico; (K.P.Q.-C.); (M.A.L.-F.); (P.R.-P.); (B.A.S.-E.); (G.A.G.-A.); (M.E.)
| | - Patricia Rivera-Palafox
- Centro de Investigacion en Alimentacion y Desarrollo, A.C., Carretera Gustavo Enrique Astiazaran Rosas, No. 46, Col. La Victoria, Hermosillo, Sonora CP. 83304, Mexico; (K.P.Q.-C.); (M.A.L.-F.); (P.R.-P.); (B.A.S.-E.); (G.A.G.-A.); (M.E.)
| | - Brenda A. Silva-Espinoza
- Centro de Investigacion en Alimentacion y Desarrollo, A.C., Carretera Gustavo Enrique Astiazaran Rosas, No. 46, Col. La Victoria, Hermosillo, Sonora CP. 83304, Mexico; (K.P.Q.-C.); (M.A.L.-F.); (P.R.-P.); (B.A.S.-E.); (G.A.G.-A.); (M.E.)
| | - Gustavo A. González-Aguilar
- Centro de Investigacion en Alimentacion y Desarrollo, A.C., Carretera Gustavo Enrique Astiazaran Rosas, No. 46, Col. La Victoria, Hermosillo, Sonora CP. 83304, Mexico; (K.P.Q.-C.); (M.A.L.-F.); (P.R.-P.); (B.A.S.-E.); (G.A.G.-A.); (M.E.)
| | - Martín Esqueda
- Centro de Investigacion en Alimentacion y Desarrollo, A.C., Carretera Gustavo Enrique Astiazaran Rosas, No. 46, Col. La Victoria, Hermosillo, Sonora CP. 83304, Mexico; (K.P.Q.-C.); (M.A.L.-F.); (P.R.-P.); (B.A.S.-E.); (G.A.G.-A.); (M.E.)
| | - Rigoberto Gaitán-Hernández
- Instituto de Ecologia, A.C., Carretera Antigua a Coatepec, No. 351, El Haya, Xalapa, Veracruz CP. 91073, Mexico;
| | - J. Fernando Ayala-Zavala
- Centro de Investigacion en Alimentacion y Desarrollo, A.C., Carretera Gustavo Enrique Astiazaran Rosas, No. 46, Col. La Victoria, Hermosillo, Sonora CP. 83304, Mexico; (K.P.Q.-C.); (M.A.L.-F.); (P.R.-P.); (B.A.S.-E.); (G.A.G.-A.); (M.E.)
- Correspondence: ; Tel.: +52-(662)289-2400; Fax: +52-(662)280-0422
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5
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Roulier B, Pérès B, Haudecoeur R. Advances in the Design of Genuine Human Tyrosinase Inhibitors for Targeting Melanogenesis and Related Pigmentations. J Med Chem 2020; 63:13428-13443. [PMID: 32787103 DOI: 10.1021/acs.jmedchem.0c00994] [Citation(s) in RCA: 64] [Impact Index Per Article: 16.0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 12/17/2022]
Abstract
Human tyrosinase (hsTYR) is the key enzyme ensuring the conversion of l-tyrosine to dopaquinone, thereby initiating melanin synthesis, i.e., melanogenesis. Although the protein has long been familiar, knowledge about its three-dimensional structure and efficient overexpression protocols emerged only recently. Consequently, for decades medicinal chemistry studies aiming at developing skin depigmenting agents relied almost exclusively on biological assays performed using mushroom tyrosinase (abTYR), producing a plethoric literature, often of little useful purpose. Indeed, several recent reports have pointed out spectacular differences in terms of interaction patterns and inhibition values between hsTYR and abTYR, including for widely used standard tyrosinase inhibitors. In this review, we summarize the last developments regarding the potential role of hsTYR in human pathologies, the advances in recombinant expression systems and structural data retrieving, and the pioneer generation of true hsTYR inhibitors. Finally, we present suggestions for the design of future inhibitors of this highly attractive target in pharmacology and dermocosmetics.
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Affiliation(s)
- Brayan Roulier
- Département de Pharmacochimie Moléculaire (DPM), UMR 5063, Université Grenoble Alpes, 38041 Grenoble, France
| | - Basile Pérès
- Département de Pharmacochimie Moléculaire (DPM), UMR 5063, Université Grenoble Alpes, 38041 Grenoble, France
| | - Romain Haudecoeur
- Département de Pharmacochimie Moléculaire (DPM), UMR 5063, Université Grenoble Alpes, 38041 Grenoble, France
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6
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Boo YC. Up- or Downregulation of Melanin Synthesis Using Amino Acids, Peptides, and Their Analogs. Biomedicines 2020; 8:biomedicines8090322. [PMID: 32882959 PMCID: PMC7555855 DOI: 10.3390/biomedicines8090322] [Citation(s) in RCA: 14] [Impact Index Per Article: 3.5] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Grants] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 08/08/2020] [Revised: 08/30/2020] [Accepted: 08/31/2020] [Indexed: 02/07/2023] Open
Abstract
Harmonious synthesis and distribution of melanin in the skin contribute to the expression of beauty and the maintenance of health. When skin pigmentary disorders occur because of internal or external factors or, when there is a need to artificially increase or reduce the pigmentation level of the skin for aesthetic or therapeutic purposes, various pharmacological therapies are applied but the results are not always satisfactory. Studies have been conducted to improve the efficacy and safety of these treatment strategies. In this review, we present the latest studies regarding peptides and related compounds that may be useful in artificially increasing or reducing skin melanin levels. Certain analogs of α-melanocyte stimulating hormone (MSH) and oligopeptides with the sequences derived from the hormone were shown to promote melanin synthesis in cells and in vivo models. Various amino acids, peptides, their analogs, and their hybrid compounds with other chemical moieties were shown to inhibit tyrosinase (TYR) catalytic activity or downregulate TYR gene expression. Certain peptides were shown to inhibit melanosome biogenesis or induce autophagy, leading to decreased pigmentation. In vivo and clinical evidence are available for some compounds, including [Nle4-D-Phe7]-α-MSH, glutathione disulfide, and glycinamide hydrochloride. For many other compounds, additional studies are required to verify their efficacy and safety in vivo and in clinical trials. The accumulating information regarding pro- and antimelanogenic activity of peptides and related compounds will lead to the development of novel drugs for the treatment of skin pigmentary disorders.
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Affiliation(s)
- Yong Chool Boo
- Department of Molecular Medicine, School of Medicine, Kyungpook National University, 680 Gukchaebosang-ro, Jung-gu, Daegu 41944, Korea; ; Tel.: +82-53-420-4946
- BK21 Plus KNU Biomedical Convergence Program, Kyungpook National University, Daegu 41944, Korea
- Cell and Matrix Research Institute, Kyungpook National University, Daegu 41944, Korea
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7
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Taofiq O, Barreiro MF, Ferreira ICFR. The Role of Bioactive Compounds and other Metabolites from Mushrooms against Skin Disorders- A Systematic Review Assessing their Cosmeceutical and Nutricosmetic Outcomes. Curr Med Chem 2020; 27:6926-6965. [PMID: 32238131 DOI: 10.2174/0929867327666200402100157] [Citation(s) in RCA: 4] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 05/08/2019] [Revised: 11/19/2019] [Accepted: 12/15/2019] [Indexed: 01/03/2023]
Abstract
Bioactive compounds derived from mushrooms have been shown to present promising potential as cosmeceutical or nutricosmetic ingredients. Scientific data reviewed herein showed that extracts prepared from medicinal and edible mushrooms and their individual metabolites presented antiinflammatory, antioxidant, photoprotective, antimicrobial, anti-tyrosinase, anti-elastase, and anticollagenase activities. These metabolites can be utilised as ingredients to suppress the severity of Inflammatory Skin Diseases, offer photoprotection to the skin, and correct Hyperpigmentation. However, studies regarding the molecular mechanism behind the mentioned bioactivities are still lacking. Challenges associated with the use of mushroom extracts and their associated metabolites as cosmeceutical and nutricosmetic ingredients include several steps from the fruiting bodies to the final product: extraction optimization, estimation of the efficacy and safety claims, the use of micro and nanocarriers to allow for controlled release and the pros and cons associated with the use of extracts vs individual compounds. This systematic review highlights that mushrooms contain diverse biomolecules that can be sustainably used in the development of nutricosmetic and cosmeceutical formulations. Reports regarding stability, compatibility, and safety assessment, but also toxicological studies are still needed to be considered. Furthermore, some of the constraints and limitations hindering the development of this type of ingredients still require long-term studies to achieve major breakthroughs.
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Affiliation(s)
- Oludemi Taofiq
- Centro de Investigacao de Montanha (CIMO), Instituto Politecnico de Braganca, Campus de Santa Apolonia, 5300-253 Braganca, Portugal
| | - Maria Filomena Barreiro
- Centro de Investigacao de Montanha (CIMO), Instituto Politecnico de Braganca, Campus de Santa Apolonia, 5300-253 Braganca, Portugal
| | - Isabel C F R Ferreira
- Centro de Investigacao de Montanha (CIMO), Instituto Politecnico de Braganca, Campus de Santa Apolonia, 5300-253 Braganca, Portugal
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8
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Nkomo M, Gokul A, Keyster M, Klein A. Exogenous p-Coumaric Acid Improves Salvia hispanica L. Seedling Shoot Growth. PLANTS (BASEL, SWITZERLAND) 2019; 8:E546. [PMID: 31779249 PMCID: PMC6963421 DOI: 10.3390/plants8120546] [Citation(s) in RCA: 8] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.6] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Grants] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 10/08/2019] [Revised: 11/04/2019] [Accepted: 11/04/2019] [Indexed: 01/04/2023]
Abstract
: p-Coumaric acid (p-CA) belongs to a family of natural esters of hydroxycinnamic acid compounds that have been shown to modulate plant growth and metabolism. In this study, we investigated the effect of exogenous p-CA on plant growth, reactive oxygen species (ROS)-induced oxidative damage, photosynthetic metabolism, osmolyte content and changes in superoxide dismutase (SOD) enzymatic activity. Exogenous p-CA improved Salvia hispanica (chia) growth by significantly enhancing shoot length, fresh and dry weights coupled with augmented levels of total chlorophyll and carotenoid contents. Furthermore, p-CA also triggered an induction in proline, glycine betaine (GB) and superoxide (O2∙-) levels while no changes were observed for hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) and downstream malondialdehyde (MDA) content. Also, no change in SOD activity was observed in the p-CA treatment relative to the control. Therefore, the results suggest that exogenous p-CA improves chia seedling growth possibly via activation of a ROS-signalling pathway involving O2∙- under the control of proline accumulation.
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Affiliation(s)
- Mbukeni Nkomo
- Plant Omics Laboratory, Department of Biotechnology, University of the Western Cape, Bellville 7535, South Africa;
| | - Arun Gokul
- Environmental Biotechnology Laboratory, Department of Biotechnology, University of the Western Cape, Bellville 7535, South Africa;
| | - Marshall Keyster
- Environmental Biotechnology Laboratory, Department of Biotechnology, University of the Western Cape, Bellville 7535, South Africa;
- DST-NRF Centre of Excellence in Food Security, University of the Western Cape, Bellville 7530, South Africa
| | - Ashwil Klein
- Plant Omics Laboratory, Department of Biotechnology, University of the Western Cape, Bellville 7535, South Africa;
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9
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Natural and Bioinspired Phenolic Compounds as Tyrosinase Inhibitors for the Treatment of Skin Hyperpigmentation: Recent Advances. COSMETICS 2019. [DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics6040057] [Citation(s) in RCA: 81] [Impact Index Per Article: 16.2] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 12/20/2022] Open
Abstract
One of the most common approaches for control of skin pigmentation involves the inhibition of tyrosinase, a copper-containing enzyme which catalyzes the key steps of melanogenesis. This review focuses on the tyrosinase inhibition properties of a series of natural and synthetic, bioinspired phenolic compounds that have appeared in the literature in the last five years. Both mushroom and human tyrosinase inhibitors have been considered. Among the first class, flavonoids, in particular chalcones, occupy a prominent role as natural inhibitors, followed by hydroxystilbenes (mainly resveratrol derivatives). A series of more complex phenolic compounds from a variety of sources, first of all belonging to the Moraceae family, have also been described as potent tyrosinase inhibitors. As to the synthetic compounds, hydroxycinnamic acids and chalcones again appear as the most exploited scaffolds. Several inhibition mechanisms have been reported for the described inhibitors, pointing to copper chelating and/or hydrophobic moieties as key structural requirements to achieve good inhibition properties. Emerging trends in the search for novel skin depigmenting agents, including the development of assays that could distinguish between inhibitors and potentially toxic substrates of the enzyme as well as of formulations aimed at improving the bioavailability and hence the effectiveness of well-known inhibitors, have also been addressed.
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10
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Boo YC. p-Coumaric Acid as An Active Ingredient in Cosmetics: A Review Focusing on its Antimelanogenic Effects. Antioxidants (Basel) 2019; 8:E275. [PMID: 31382682 PMCID: PMC6720745 DOI: 10.3390/antiox8080275] [Citation(s) in RCA: 113] [Impact Index Per Article: 22.6] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Grants] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 07/14/2019] [Revised: 08/01/2019] [Accepted: 08/02/2019] [Indexed: 12/16/2022] Open
Abstract
Controlling unwanted hyperpigmentation is a major challenge in dermatology and cosmetology, and safe and efficacious antimelanogenic agents are deemed useful for this purpose. p-Coumaric acid is a natural metabolite contained in many edible plants, and its antioxidant activities in reducing oxidative stress and inflammatory reactions have been demonstrated in various experimental models. p-Coumaric acid has the optimal structure to be a competitive inhibitor of tyrosinase that catalyzes key reactions in the melanin biosynthetic pathway. Experimental evidence supports this notion as it was found to be a more potent inhibitor of tyrosinase, especially toward human enzymes, than other well-known tyrosinase inhibitors such as arbutin and kojic acid. p-Coumaric acid inhibited melanin synthesis in murine melanoma cells, human epidermal melanocytes, and reconstituted three-dimensional human skin models. Ex-vivo skin permeation experiments and in-vivo efficacy tests for p-coumaric acid confirmed its efficient transdermal delivery and functional efficacy in reducing erythema development and skin pigmentation due to ultraviolet radiation exposure. Human studies further supported its effectiveness in hypopigmentation and depigmentation. These findings suggest that p-coumaric acid has good potential to be used as a skin-lightening active ingredient in cosmetics. Future studies are needed to extensively examine its safety and efficacy and to develop an optimized cosmetic formulation for the best performance in skin lightening.
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Affiliation(s)
- Yong Chool Boo
- Department of Molecular Medicine, School of Medicine, Kyungpook National University, Daegu 41944, Korea.
- BK21 Plus KNU Biomedical Convergence Program, Kyungpook National University, Daegu 41944, Korea.
- Cell and Matrix Research Institute, Kyungpook National University, Daegu 41944, Korea.
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Gunia-Krzyżak A, Słoczyńska K, Popiół J, Koczurkiewicz P, Marona H, Pękala E. Cinnamic acid derivatives in cosmetics: current use and future prospects. Int J Cosmet Sci 2018; 40:356-366. [PMID: 29870052 DOI: 10.1111/ics.12471] [Citation(s) in RCA: 54] [Impact Index Per Article: 9.0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 03/17/2018] [Accepted: 06/03/2018] [Indexed: 01/11/2023]
Abstract
Cinnamic acid derivatives are widely used in cosmetics and possess various functions. This group of compounds includes both naturally occurring and synthetic substances. On the basis of the Cosmetic Ingredient Database (CosIng) and available literature, this review summarizes their functions in cosmetics, including their physicochemical and biological properties as well as reported adverse effects. A perfuming function is typical of many derivatives of cinnamaldehyde, cinnamyl alcohol, dihydrocinnamyl alcohol and cinnamic acid itself; these substances are commonly used in cosmetics all over the world. Some of them show allergic and photoallergic potential, resulting in restrictions in maximum concentrations and/or a requirement to indicate the presence of some substances in the list of ingredients when their concentrations exceed certain fixed values in a cosmetic product. Another important function of cinnamic acid derivatives in cosmetics is UV protection. Ester derivatives such as ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (octinoxate), isoamyl p-methoxycinnamte (amiloxiate), octocrylene and cinoxate are used in cosmetics all over the world as UV filters. However, their maximum concentrations in cosmetic products are restricted due to their adverse effects, which include contact and a photocontact allergies, phototoxic contact dermatitis, contact dermatitis, estrogenic modulation and generation of reactive oxygen species. Other rarely utilized functions of cinnamic acid derivatives are as an antioxidant, in skin conditioning, hair conditioning, as a tonic and in antimicrobial activities. Moreover, some currently investigated natural and synthetic derivatives of cinnamic acid have shown skin lightening and anti-ageing properties. Some of them may become new cosmetic ingredients in the future. In particular, 4-hydroxycinnamic acid, which is currently indexed as a skin-conditioning cosmetics ingredient, has been widely tested in vitro and in vivo as a new drug candidate for the treatment of hyperpigmentation.
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Affiliation(s)
- A Gunia-Krzyżak
- Faculty of Pharmacy, Department of Bioorganic Chemistry, Chair of Organic Chemistry, Jagiellonian University Medical College, Medyczna 9, Kraków, Poland
| | - K Słoczyńska
- Faculty of Pharmacy, Department of Pharmaceutical Biochemistry, Jagiellonian University Medical College, Medyczna 9, Kraków, Poland
| | - J Popiół
- Faculty of Pharmacy, Department of Bioorganic Chemistry, Chair of Organic Chemistry, Jagiellonian University Medical College, Medyczna 9, Kraków, Poland
| | - P Koczurkiewicz
- Faculty of Pharmacy, Department of Pharmaceutical Biochemistry, Jagiellonian University Medical College, Medyczna 9, Kraków, Poland
| | - H Marona
- Faculty of Pharmacy, Department of Bioorganic Chemistry, Chair of Organic Chemistry, Jagiellonian University Medical College, Medyczna 9, Kraków, Poland
| | - E Pękala
- Faculty of Pharmacy, Department of Pharmaceutical Biochemistry, Jagiellonian University Medical College, Medyczna 9, Kraków, Poland
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12
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Wang K, Jiang H, Li W, Qiang M, Dong T, Li H. Role of Vitamin C in Skin Diseases. Front Physiol 2018; 9:819. [PMID: 30022952 PMCID: PMC6040229 DOI: 10.3389/fphys.2018.00819] [Citation(s) in RCA: 43] [Impact Index Per Article: 7.2] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 03/26/2018] [Accepted: 06/12/2018] [Indexed: 12/19/2022] Open
Abstract
Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) plays an important role in maintaining skin health and can promote the differentiation of keratinocytes and decrease melanin synthesis, leading to antioxidant protection against UV-induced photodamage. Normal skin needs high concentrations of vitamin C, which plays many roles in the skin, including the formation of the skin barrier and collagen in the dermis, the ability to counteract skin oxidation, and the modulation of cell signal pathways of cell growth and differentiation. However, vitamin C deficiency can cause or aggravate the occurrence and development of some skin diseases, such as atopic dermatitis (AD) and porphyria cutanea tarda (PCT). Levels of vitamin C in plasma are decreased in AD, and vitamin C deficiency may be one of the factors that contributes to the pathogenesis of PCT. On the other hand, high doses of vitamin C have significantly reduced cancer cell viability, as well as invasiveness, and induced apoptosis in human malignant melanoma. In this review, we will summarize the effects of vitamin C on four skin diseases (porphyria cutanea tarda, atopic dermatitis, malignant melanoma, and herpes zoster and postherpetic neuralgia) and highlight the potential of vitamin C as a therapeutic strategy to treat these diseases, emphasizing the clinical application of vitamin C as an adjuvant for drugs or physical therapy in other skin diseases.
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Affiliation(s)
- Kaiqin Wang
- Department of Dermatology, First Affiliated Hospital of Kunming Medical University, Kunming, China
| | - Hui Jiang
- Department of Dermatology, First Affiliated Hospital of Kunming Medical University, Kunming, China
| | - Wenshuang Li
- Bio-ID Center, School of Biomedical Engineering, Shanghai Jiao Tong University, Shanghai, China
| | - Mingyue Qiang
- Department of Dermatology, First Affiliated Hospital of Kunming Medical University, Kunming, China
| | - Tianxiang Dong
- Department of Dermatology, First Affiliated Hospital of Kunming Medical University, Kunming, China
| | - Hongbin Li
- Department of Dermatology, First Affiliated Hospital of Kunming Medical University, Kunming, China
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Pillaiyar T, Namasivayam V, Manickam M, Jung SH. Inhibitors of Melanogenesis: An Updated Review. J Med Chem 2018; 61:7395-7418. [PMID: 29763564 DOI: 10.1021/acs.jmedchem.7b00967] [Citation(s) in RCA: 175] [Impact Index Per Article: 29.2] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 01/16/2023]
Abstract
Melanins are pigment molecules that determine the skin, eye, and hair color of the human subject to its amount, quality, and distribution. Melanocytes synthesize melanin and provide epidermal protection from various stimuli, such as harmful ultraviolet radiation, through the complex process called melanogenesis. However, serious dermatological problems occur when there is excessive production of melanin in different parts of the human body. These include freckles, melasma, senile lentigo, pigmented acne scars, and cancer. Therefore, controlling the production of melanin is an important approach for the treatment of pigmentation related disorderes. In this Perspective, we focus on the inhibitors of melanogenesis that directly/indirectly target a key enzyme tyrosinase as well as its associated signaling pathways.
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Affiliation(s)
- Thanigaimalai Pillaiyar
- PharmaCenter Bonn, Pharmaceutical Institute, Pharmaceutical Chemistry I , University of Bonn , An der Immenburg 4 , D-53121 Bonn , Germany
| | - Vigneshwaran Namasivayam
- PharmaCenter Bonn, Pharmaceutical Institute, Pharmaceutical Chemistry I , University of Bonn , An der Immenburg 4 , D-53121 Bonn , Germany
| | - Manoj Manickam
- College of Pharmacy and Institute of Drug Research and Development , Chungnam National University , Daejeon 34134 , Korea
| | - Sang-Hun Jung
- College of Pharmacy and Institute of Drug Research and Development , Chungnam National University , Daejeon 34134 , Korea
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Taira N, Katsuyama Y, Yoshioka M, Muraoka O, Morikawa T. Structural Requirements of Alkylglyceryl-l-Ascorbic Acid Derivatives for Melanogenesis Inhibitory Activity. Int J Mol Sci 2018; 19:ijms19041144. [PMID: 29642633 PMCID: PMC5979531 DOI: 10.3390/ijms19041144] [Citation(s) in RCA: 8] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.3] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 01/23/2018] [Revised: 04/02/2018] [Accepted: 04/06/2018] [Indexed: 12/16/2022] Open
Abstract
l-Ascorbic acid has multifunctional benefits on skin aesthetics, including inhibition of melanin production, and is widely used in cosmetics. It, however, has low stability and poor skin penetration. We hypothesize that alkylglyceryl-l-ascorbic acid derivatives, highly stable vitamin C–alkylglycerol conjugates, would have similar anti-melanogenic activity with better stability and penetration. We test 28 alkylglyceryl-l-ascorbic acid derivatives (1–28) on theophylline-stimulated B16 melanoma 4A5 cells to determine if they inhibit melanogenesis and establish any structure–function relationships. Although not the most potent inhibitors, 3-O-(2,3-dihydroxypropyl)-2-O-hexyl-l-ascorbic acid (6, IC50 = 81.4 µM) and 2-O-(2,3-dihydroxypropyl)-3-O-hexyl-l-ascorbic acid (20, IC50 = 117 µM) are deemed the best candidate derivatives based on their inhibitory activities and low toxicities. These derivatives are also found to be more stable than l-ascorbic acid and to have favorable characteristics for skin penetration. The following structural requirements for inhibitory activity of alkylglyceryl-l-ascorbic acid derivatives are also determined: (i) alkylation of glyceryl-l-ascorbic acid is essential for inhibitory activity; (ii) the 3-O-alkyl-derivatives (2–14) exhibit stronger inhibitory activity than the corresponding 2-O-alkyl-derivatives (16–28); and (iii) derivatives with longer alkyl chains have stronger inhibitory activities. Mechanistically, our studies suggest that l-ascorbic acid derivatives exert their effects by suppressing the mRNA expression of tyrosinase and tyrosine-related protein-1.
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Affiliation(s)
- Norihisa Taira
- SEIWA KASEI CO, LTD., 1-2-14, Nunoichicho, Higashi-osaka, Osaka 579-8004, Japan.
- Pharmaceutical Research and Technology Institute, Kindai University, 3-4-1 Kowakae, Higashi-osaka, Osaka 577-8502, Japan.
| | - Yushi Katsuyama
- SEIWA KASEI CO, LTD., 1-2-14, Nunoichicho, Higashi-osaka, Osaka 579-8004, Japan.
| | - Masato Yoshioka
- SEIWA KASEI CO, LTD., 1-2-14, Nunoichicho, Higashi-osaka, Osaka 579-8004, Japan.
| | - Osamu Muraoka
- Pharmaceutical Research and Technology Institute, Kindai University, 3-4-1 Kowakae, Higashi-osaka, Osaka 577-8502, Japan.
- Antiaging Center, Kindai University, 3-4-1 Kowakae, Higashi-osaka, Osaka 577-8502, Japan.
| | - Toshio Morikawa
- Pharmaceutical Research and Technology Institute, Kindai University, 3-4-1 Kowakae, Higashi-osaka, Osaka 577-8502, Japan.
- Antiaging Center, Kindai University, 3-4-1 Kowakae, Higashi-osaka, Osaka 577-8502, Japan.
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Hydroxycinnamic Acids and Their Derivatives: Cosmeceutical Significance, Challenges and Future Perspectives, a Review. Molecules 2017; 22:molecules22020281. [PMID: 28208818 PMCID: PMC6155946 DOI: 10.3390/molecules22020281] [Citation(s) in RCA: 166] [Impact Index Per Article: 23.7] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 01/22/2017] [Accepted: 02/08/2017] [Indexed: 12/13/2022] Open
Abstract
Bioactive compounds from natural sources, due to their widely-recognized benefits, have been exploited as cosmeceutical ingredients. Among them, phenolic acids emerge with a very interesting potential. In this context, this review analyzes hydroxycinnamic acids and their derivatives as multifunctional ingredients for topical application, as well as the limitations associated with their use in cosmetic formulations. Hydroxycinnamic acids and their derivatives display antioxidant, anti-collagenase, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial and anti-tyrosinase activities, as well as ultraviolet (UV) protective effects, suggesting that they can be exploited as anti-aging and anti-inflammatory agents, preservatives and hyperpigmentation-correcting ingredients. Due to their poor stability, easy degradation and oxidation, microencapsulation techniques have been employed for topical application, preventing them from degradation and enabling a sustained release. Based on the above findings, hydroxycinnamic acids present high cosmetic potential, but studies addressing the validation of their benefits in cosmetic formulations are still scarce. Furthermore, studies dealing with skin permeation are scarcely available and need to be conducted in order to predict the topical bioavailability of these compounds after application.
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