Galactosyl Pentadecene Reversibly Enhances Transdermal and Topical Drug Delivery

Kombucha as a Potential Active Ingredient in Cosmetics-An Ex Vivo Skin Permeation Study

Kombucha is a non-alcoholic beverage, that is increasingly used in the cosmetic industry. The available literature reports the positive effects of kombucha on the skin, in particular its antioxidant action. However, there is a lack of information on skin permeation and the accumulation of active ingredients showing such effects. Skin aging is largely dependent on oxidative stress, therefore in our study we assessed the ex vivo permeation of two types of kombucha (green and black tea) through porcine skin. The antioxidant activity (DPPH, ABTS, FRAP methods) and total polyphenol content of these extracts were determined before and after permeation testing. Moreover, the content of selected phenolic acids as well as caffeine was assessed. Skin permeation was determined using a Franz diffusion cell. The antioxidant activity of both Kombuchas was found to be high. In addition, gallic acid, chlorogenic acid, protocatechuic acid, coumaric acid, m-hydroxybenzoic acid, and caffeine were identified. A 24-h ex vivo study showed the permeation of some phenolic acids and caffeine and their accumulation in the skin. Our results confirm the importance of studying the skin permeation of what are still little known ingredients in cosmetic preparations. Evaluation of the accumulation of these ingredients can guarantee the efficacy of such preparations.

An update of skin permeability data based on a systematic review of recent research

The cutaneous absorption parameters of xenobiotics are crucial for the development of drugs and cosmetics, as well as for assessing environmental and occupational chemical risks. Despite the great variability in the design of experimental conditions due to uncertain international guidelines, datasets like HuskinDB have been created to report skin absorption endpoints. This review updates available skin permeability data by rigorously compiling research published between 2012 and 2021. Inclusion and exclusion criteria have been selected to build the most harmonized and reusable dataset possible. The Generative Topographic Mapping method was applied to the present dataset and compared to HuskinDB to monitor the progress in skin permeability research and locate chemotypes of particular concern. The open-source dataset (SkinPiX) includes steady-state flux, maximum flux, lag time and permeability coefficient results for the substances tested, as well as relevant information on experimental parameters that can impact the data. It can be used to extract subsets of data for comparisons and to build predictive models.

Time-Dependent Differences in the Effects of Oleic Acid and Oleyl Alcohol on the Human Skin Barrier

Oleic acid and oleyl alcohol are commonly used permeation and penetration enhancers to facilitate topical drug delivery. Here, we aimed to better understand the mechanism of their enhancing effects in terms of their interactions with the human skin barrier using diclofenac diethylamine (DIC-DEA), a nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drug for topical pain management. Oleic acid promoted DIC-DEA permeation through ex vivo human skin more rapidly than oleyl alcohol (both applied at 0.75%) due to fluidization of stratum corneum lipids as revealed by infrared spectroscopy. After 12 h, the effect of these enhancers on DIC-DEA permeation leveled off, fluidization was no longer evident, and skin permeabilization was mainly due to the formation of fluid enhancer-rich domains. Contrary to oleyl alcohol, oleic acid adversely affected two indicators of the skin barrier integrity, transepidermal water loss and skin electrical impedance. The content of oleyl alcohol in the stratum corneum was lower than that of oleic acid (even 12 h after the enhancers were removed from the skin surface), but it caused higher DIC-DEA retention in both epidermis and dermis compared to oleic acid. The effects of oleyl alcohol and oleic acid on DIC-DEA permeation and retention in the skin were similar after a single and repeated application (4 doses every 12 h). Thus, oleyl alcohol offers several advantages over oleic acid for topical drug delivery.

Proline, hydroxyproline, and pyrrolidone carboxylic acid derivatives as highly efficient but reversible transdermal permeation enhancers

Overcoming the skin barrier properties efficiently, temporarily, and safely for successful transdermal drug delivery remains a challenge. We synthesized three series of potential skin permeation enhancers derived from natural amino acid derivatives proline, 4-hydroxyproline, and pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, which is a component of natural moisturizing factor. Permeation studies using in vitro human skin identified dodecyl prolinates with N-acetyl, propionyl, and butyryl chains (Pro2, Pro3, and Pro4, respectively) as potent enhancers for model drugs theophylline and diclofenac. The proline derivatives were generally more active than 4-hydroxyprolines and pyrrolidone carboxylic acid derivatives. Pro2-4 had acceptable in vitro toxicities on 3T3 fibroblast and HaCaT cell lines with IC₅₀ values in tens of µM. Infrared spectroscopy using the human stratum corneum revealed that these enhancers preferentially interacted with the skin barrier lipids and decreased the overall chain order without causing lipid extraction, while their effects on the stratum corneum protein structures were negligible. The impacts of Pro3 and Pro4 on an in vitro transepidermal water loss and skin electrical impedance were fully reversible. Thus, proline derivatives Pro3 and Pro4 have an advantageous combination of high enhancing potency, low cellular toxicity, and reversible action, which is important for their potential in vivo use as the skin barrier would quickly recover after the drug/enhancer administration is terminated.

N-Alkylmorpholines: Potent Dermal and Transdermal Skin Permeation Enhancers

Transdermal drug delivery is an attractive non-invasive method offering numerous advantages over the conventional routes of administration. The main obstacle to drug transport is, however, the powerful skin barrier that needs to be modulated, for example, by transdermal permeation enhancers. Unfortunately, there are still only a few enhancers showing optimum properties including low toxicity and reversibility of enhancing effects. For this reason, we investigated a series of new N-alkylmorpholines with various side chains as potential enhancers in an in vitro permeation study, using three model permeants (theophylline, indomethacin, diclofenac). Moreover, electrical impedance, transepidermal water loss, cellular toxicity and infrared spectroscopy measurements were applied to assess the effect of enhancers on skin integrity, reversibility, toxicity and enhancers' mode of action, respectively. Our results showed a bell-shaped relationship between the enhancing activity and the hydrocarbon chain length of the N-alkylmorpholines, with the most efficient derivatives having 10-14 carbons for both transdermal and dermal delivery. These structures were even more potent than the unsaturated oleyl derivative. The best results were obtained for indomethacin, where particularly the C10-14 derivatives showed significantly stronger effects than the traditional enhancer Azone. Further experiments revealed reversibility in the enhancing effect, acceptable toxicity and a mode of action based predominantly on interactions with stratum corneum lipids.

In Vitro Modeling of Skin Barrier Disruption and its Recovery by Ceramide-Based Formulations

Disrupted skin barrier, one of the severe attributes of inflammatory skin diseases, is caused by lower content and pathological changes of lipids in the uppermost skin layer-stratum corneum (SC). Restoring skin barrier with native skin lipids, especially ceramides (Cers), appears to be a promising therapy with minimum side effects. For testing the efficiency of these formulations, suitable in vitro models of the skin with disrupted barriers are needed. For the similarity with the human tissue, our models were based on the pig ear skin. Three different ways of skin barrier disruption were tested and compared: tape stripping, lipid extraction with organic solvents, and barrier disruption by sodium lauryl sulfate. The level of barrier disruption was investigated by permeation studies, and parameters of each method were modified to reach significant changes between the non-disrupted skin and our model. Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy was employed to elucidate the changes of the skin permeability on the molecular scale. Further, the potential of the developed models to be restored by skin barrier repairing agents was evaluated by the same techniques. We observed a significant decrease in permeation characteristics through our in vitro models treated with the lipid mixtures compared to the untreated damaged skin, which implied that the skin barrier was substantially restored. Taken together, the results suggest that our in vitro models are suitable for the screening of potential barrier repairing agents.

Bacterial Cellulose Membrane Containing Epilobium angustifolium L. Extract as a Promising Material for the Topical Delivery of Antioxidants to the Skin

Bacterial cellulose membranes (BCs) are becoming useful as a drug delivery system to the skin. However, there are very few reports on their application of plant substances to the skin. Komagataeibacter xylinus was used for the production of bacterial cellulose (BC). The BC containing 5% and 10% ethanolic extract of Epilobium angustifolium (FEE) (BC-5%FEE and BC-10%FEE, respectively) were prepared. Their mechanical, structural, and antioxidant properties, as well as phenolic acid content, were evaluated. The bioavailability of BC-FESs using mouse L929 fibroblasts as model cells was tested. Moreover, In Vitro penetration through the pigskin of the selected phenolic acids contained in FEE and their accumulation in the skin after topical application of BC-FEEs was examined. The BC-FEEs were characterized by antioxidant activity. The BC-5% FEE showed relatively low toxicity to healthy mouse fibroblasts. Gallic acid (GA), chlorogenic acid (ChA), 3,4-dihydroxybenzoic acid (3,4-DHB), 4-hydroxybenzoic acid (4-HB), 3-hydroxybenzoic acid (3-HB), and caffeic acid (CA) found in FEE were also identified in the membranes. After topical application of the membranes to the pigskin penetration of some phenolic acid and other antioxidants through the skin as well as their accumulation in the skin was observed. The bacterial cellulose membrane loaded by plant extract may be an interesting solution for topical antioxidant delivery to the skin.

Transdermal Delivery Systems for Ibuprofen and Ibuprofen Modified with Amino Acids Alkyl Esters Based on Bacterial Cellulose

The potential of bacterial cellulose as a carrier for the transport of ibuprofen (a typical example of non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs) through the skin was investigated. Ibuprofen and its amino acid ester salts-loaded BC membranes were prepared through a simple methodology and characterized in terms of structure and morphology. Two salts of amino acid isopropyl esters were used in the research, namely L-valine isopropyl ester ibuprofenate ([ValOiPr][IBU]) and L-leucine isopropyl ester ibuprofenate ([LeuOiPr][IBU]). [LeuOiPr][IBU] is a new compound; therefore, it has been fully characterized and its identity confirmed. For all membranes obtained the surface morphology, tensile mechanical properties, active compound dissolution assays, and permeation and skin accumulation studies of API (active pharmaceutical ingredient) were determined. The obtained membranes were very homogeneous. In vitro diffusion studies with Franz cells were conducted using pig epidermal membranes, and showed that the incorporation of ibuprofen in BC membranes provided lower permeation rates to those obtained with amino acids ester salts of ibuprofen. This release profile together with the ease of application and the simple preparation and assembly of the drug-loaded membranes indicates the enormous potentialities of using BC membranes for transdermal application of ibuprofen in the form of amino acid ester salts.

Epilobium angustifolium L. Extracts as Valuable Ingredients in Cosmetic and Dermatological Products

Epilobium angustifolium L. is a popular and well-known medicinal plant. In this study, an attempt to evaluate the possibility of using this plant in preparations for the care and treatment of skin diseases was made. The antioxidant, antiaging and anti-inflammatory properties of ethanolic extracts from Epilobium angustifolium (FEE) were assessed. Qualitative and quantitative evaluation of extracts chemically composition was performed by gas chromatography with mass spectrometry (GC-MS) and high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). The total polyphenol content (TPC) of biologically active compounds, such as the total content of polyphenols (TPC), flavonoids (TFC), and assimilation pigments, as well as selected phenolic acids, was assessed. FEE was evaluated for their anti-inflammatory and antiaging properties, achieving 68% inhibition of lipoxygenase activity, 60% of collagenase and 49% of elastase. FEE also showed high antioxidant activity, reaching to 87% of free radical scavenging using 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) and 59% using 2,2'-azinobis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) (ABTS). Additionally, in vitro penetration studies were performed using two vehicles, i.e., a hydrogel and an emulsion containing FEE. These studies showed that the active ingredients contained in FEE penetrate through human skin and accumulate in it. The obtained results indicate that E. angustifolium may be an interesting plant material to be applied as a component of cosmetic and dermatological preparations with antiaging and anti-inflammatory properties.

Enhancement of the Antioxidant and Skin Permeation Properties of Betulin and Its Derivatives

This study investigated the antioxidant activity DPPH, ABTS, and Folin-Ciocalteu methods of betulin (compound 1) and its derivatives (compounds 2-11). Skin permeability and accumulation associated with compounds 1 and 8 were also examined. Identification of the obtained products (compound 2-11) and betulin isolated from plant material was based on the analysis of 1H- NMR and 13C-NMR spectra. The partition coefficient was calculated to determine the lipophilicity of all compounds. In the next stage, the penetration through pig skin and its accumulation in the skin were evaluated of ethanol vehicles containing compound 8 (at a concentration of 0.226 mmol/dm3), which was characterized by the highest antioxidant activity. For comparison, penetration studies of betulin itself were also carried out. Poor solubility and the bioavailability of pure compounds are major constraints in combination therapy. However, we observed that the ethanol vehicle was an enhancer of skin permeation for both the initial betulin and compound 8. The betulin 8 derivative showed increased permeability through biological membranes compared to the parent betulin. The paper presents the transformation of polycyclic compounds to produce novel derivatives with marked antioxidant activities and as valuable intermediates for the pharmaceutical industry. Moreover, the compounds contained in the vehicles, due to their mechanism of action, can have a beneficial effect on the balance between oxidants and antioxidants in the body, minimizing the effects of oxidative stress. The results of this work may contribute to knowledge regarding vehicles with antioxidant potential. The use of vehicles for this type of research is therefore justified.

In Vitro Human Skin Penetration, Antioxidant and Antimicrobial Activity of Ethanol-Water Extract of Fireweed (Epilobium angustifolium L.)

Epilobium angustifolium L. is applied as an antiseptic agent in the treatment of skin diseases. However, there is a lack of information on human skin penetration of active ingredients with antioxidative potential. It seems crucial because bacterial infections of skin and subcutaneous tissue are common and partly depend on oxidative stress. Therefore, we evaluated in vitro human skin penetration of fireweed ethanol-water extracts (FEEs) by determining antioxidant activity of these extracts before and after penetration study using 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH), 2,2'-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) (ABTS), and Folin-Ciocalteu methods. Microbiological tests of extracts were done. The qualitative and quantitative evaluation was performed using gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS) and high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC-UV) methods. The in vitro human skin penetration using the Franz diffusion chamber was assessed. The high antioxidant activity of FEEs was found. Gallic acid (GA), chlorogenic acid (ChA), 3,4-dihydroxybenzoic acid (3,4-DHB), 4-hydroxybenzoic acid (4-HB), and caffeic acid (CA) were identified in the extracts. The antibacterial activities were found against Serratia lutea, S. marcescens, Bacillus subtilis, B. pseudomycoides, and B. thuringiensis and next Enterococcus faecalis, E. faecium, Streptococcus pneumoniae, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, and P. fluorescens strains. In vitro penetration studies showed the penetration of some phenolic acids and their accumulation in the skin. Our results confirm the importance of skin penetration studies to guarantee the efficacy of formulations containing E. angustifolium extracts.

Enhancement of the antioxidant and skin permeation properties of eugenol by the esterification of eugenol to new derivatives

The aim of the study was to determine the antioxidant activity and assess the lipophilicity and skin penetration of eugenyl chloroacetate (EChA), eugenyl dichloroacetate (EDChA), and eugenyl trichloroacetate (ETChA). Identification of the obtained products was based on gas chromatography (GC), infrared spectroscopy (FTIR/ATR), gas chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry (GC-MS), and the analysis of 13C-NMR and 1H-NMR spectra. The antioxidative capacity of the derivatives obtained was determined by the DPPH free radical reduction method, while the octanol/water partition coefficient (shake-flask method) was tested to determine the lipophilicity of these compounds. In the next stage of testing EDChA and ETChA-(compounds characterized by the highest degree of free radical scavenging), the penetration of DPPH through pig skin and its accumulation in the skin were evaluated. For comparison, penetration studies of eugenol alone as well as dichloroacetic acid (DChAA) and trichloroacetic acid (TChAA) were also carried out. The antioxidant activity (DPPH, ABTS, and Folin-Ciocalteu methods) of the fluid that penetrated through pig skin was also evaluated. The in vitro pig skin penetration study showed that eugenol derivatives are particularly relevant for topical application. The obtained derivatives were characterized by a high level of antioxidant activity estimated after 24 h of conducting the experiment, which indicates long-term protection against reactive oxygen species (ROS) in the deeper layers of the skin.

Permeation enhancers in transdermal drug delivery: benefits and limitations

Introduction: Transdermal drug delivery has several clinical benefits over conventional routes of drug administration. To open the transdermal route for a wider range of drugs, including macromolecules, numerous physical and chemical techniques to overcome the natural low skin permeability have been developed.Areas covered: This review focuses on permeation enhancers (penetration enhancers, percutaneous absorption promoters or accelerants), which are chemicals that increase drug flux through the skin barrier. First, skin components, drug permeation pathways, and drug properties are introduced. Next, we discuss properties of enhancers, their various classifications, structure-activity relationships, mechanisms of action, reversibility and toxicity, biodegradable enhancers, and synergistic enhancer combinations.Expert opinion: Overcoming the remarkable skin barrier properties in an efficient, temporary and safe manner remains a challenge. High permeation-enhancing potency has long been perceived to be associated with toxicity and irritation potential of such compounds, which has limited their further development. In addition, the complexity of enhancer interactions with skin, formulation and drug, along with their vast chemical diversity hampered understanding of their mechanisms of action. The recent development in the field revealed highly potent yet safe enhancers or enhancer combinations, which suggest that enhancer-aided transdermal drug delivery has yet to reach its full potential.

Enhancement of ibuprofen solubility and skin permeation by conjugation with l-valine alkyl esters

New ibuprofen derivatives were made via conjugation with l-valine alkyl esters (ValOR), where R was changed from an ethyl to a hexyl group. The ionic structure was confirmed using NMR and FTIR. Specific rotation, solubility in commonly used solvents, thermal properties including phase transitions temperatures, and thermal stability were also determined. The ionic structure with a protonated amine group on an l-valine ester and melting points below 100 °C allowed inclusion of these ibuprofen derivatives into the pharmaceutically active protic ionic liquids. The ibuprofen salt solubility in deionised water and two buffer solutions at pH 5.4 and 7.4 were established and compared with the parent acid solubility. The octanol/water (buffer) partition coefficient, permeation through porcine skin, and accumulation in the skin were also measured. Ibuprofen pairing with l-valine alkyl esters [ValOR][IBU], caused higher solubility and a greater drug molecule absorption through biological membranes. log P was lower for ibuprofen salts than for the acid and it increased with a longer l-valine ester cation alkyl chain. In vitro porcine skin tests showed that ibuprofen salts with a propyl or isopropyl ester in l-valine are particularly relevant for topical application. They provide transport for ibuprofen through the skin at much higher rate than the unmodified acid and a higher permeated ibuprofen concentration, which can improve efficacy. Thus, synthesised ibuprofen derivatives could be used as drug carriers in transdermal systems to provide better drug bioavailability, and they can be also be the source of exogenous l-valine.

New ibuprofen derivatives made via conjugation with l-valine alkyl esters have better solubility in aqueous solutions and a lower log P value compared to the parent acid. They provide faster and more completely permeation of drug through the skin.

Esters of terpene alcohols as highly potent, reversible, and low toxic skin penetration enhancers

Skin penetration/permeation enhancers are compounds that improve (trans)dermal drug delivery. We designed hybrid terpene-amino acid enhancers by conjugating natural terpenes (citronellol, geraniol, nerol, farnesol, linalool, perillyl alcohol, menthol, borneol, carveol) or cinnamyl alcohol with 6-(dimethylamino)hexanoic acid through a biodegradable ester linker. The compounds were screened for their ability to increase the delivery of theophylline and hydrocortisone through and into human skin ex vivo. The citronellyl, bornyl and cinnamyl esters showed exceptional permeation-enhancing properties (enhancement ratios up to 82) while having low cellular toxicities. The barrier function of enhancer-treated skin (assessed by transepidermal water loss and electrical impedance) recovered within 24 h. Infrared spectroscopy suggested that these esters fluidized the stratum corneum lipids. Furthermore, the citronellyl ester increased the epidermal concentration of topically applied cidofovir, which is a potent antiviral and anticancer drug, by 15-fold. In conclusion, citronellyl 6-(dimethylamino)hexanoate is an outstanding enhancer with an advantageous combination of properties, which may improve the delivery of drugs that have a limited ability to cross biological barriers.

Transepidermal water loss and skin conductance as barrier integrity tests

In vitro skin permeation studies are commonly used in the risk assessment of toxic compound skin exposure. The present study examined the utility of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and electrical conductance as barrier integrity tests before skin permeation studies in vitro using a large number of skin samples and fentanyl. TEWL and conductance of the skin samples were measured before the permeation experiments in Franz diffusion cells in vitro with a vapometer and low voltage application, respectively. The data were analyzed based on the in vitro permeation results and in vivo skin absorption information from the transdermal fentanyl product labels. The results showed poor correlations between TEWL and electrical conductance for the skin samples. Weak correlations between fentanyl delivery rate (flux x area) and TEWL and skin conductance were observed. For comparison, TEWL and conductance were also examined after skin perturbation with a syringe needle, and both TEWL and conductance values of the skin samples increased after the perturbation. The data suggest that either TEWL of 10 g/m²/h or skin conductance of 0.07 mS/cm² can be used as exclusion criteria in skin integrity testing to remove skin samples with high permeabilities under the in vitro conditions studied.