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Pavlačková J, Egner P, Mokrejš P, Janalíková M. Formulating Sustainable Emulsions: Mandelic Acid and Essential Oils as Natural Preservatives. Molecules 2024; 29:4510. [PMID: 39339504 PMCID: PMC11435087 DOI: 10.3390/molecules29184510] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 08/23/2024] [Revised: 09/19/2024] [Accepted: 09/21/2024] [Indexed: 09/30/2024] Open
Abstract
Emulsion products with natural antimicrobials are becoming increasingly popular for topical application. Mandelic Acid is interesting in cosmetics due to its potent exfoliating properties, which have driven advancements in skincare technologies. Essential oils have various properties, of which the most useful in cosmetics are those that do not cause irritation, smell pleasant, and have other beneficial properties such as antimicrobial effects. Emulsions with Mandelic Acid and essential oils from Satureja montana, Lemongrass, and Litsea cubeba were formulated and microbiologically tested for their preservative effectiveness. The effect of the treatments on skin condition was monitored by non-invasive diagnostic methods, such as hydration, transepidermal water loss, and pH value. Sensory analysis revealed that the matrix containing Mandelic Acid alone or combined with Litsea Cubeba Oil was the best-performing formulation, consistent with the compliant results of antimicrobial efficacy. The topical form of this cosmetic product has demonstrated excellent preservative activity and desirable biophysical efficacy on the skin.
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Affiliation(s)
- Jana Pavlačková
- Department of Fat, Surfactant and Cosmetics Technology, Faculty of Technology, Tomas Bata University in Zlín, Vavrečkova 5669, 760 01 Zlín, Czech Republic
| | - Pavlína Egner
- Department of Fat, Surfactant and Cosmetics Technology, Faculty of Technology, Tomas Bata University in Zlín, Vavrečkova 5669, 760 01 Zlín, Czech Republic
| | - Pavel Mokrejš
- Department of Polymer Engineering, Faculty of Technology, Tomas Bata University in Zlín, Vavrečkova 275, 760 01 Zlín, Czech Republic
| | - Magda Janalíková
- Department of Environmental Protection Engineering, Faculty of Technology, Tomas Bata University in Zlín, Vavrečkova 275, 760 01 Zlín, Czech Republic
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Cunha C, Ribeiro HM, Rodrigues M, Araujo ARTS. Essential oils used in dermocosmetics: Review about its biological activities. J Cosmet Dermatol 2021; 21:513-529. [PMID: 34871468 DOI: 10.1111/jocd.14652] [Citation(s) in RCA: 1] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.3] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 09/05/2021] [Revised: 10/28/2021] [Accepted: 11/22/2021] [Indexed: 12/23/2022]
Abstract
INTRODUCTION Currently, the demand for the use of constituents of natural origin in cosmetic formulations in detriment of synthetic compounds is noticeable. Several studies assess the potential of essential oils when incorporated into various cosmetic formulations and study their biological activities. This work intends to prepare a literature review on essential oils tested in dermocosmetic formulations and whose biological activities were evaluated through in vitro and/or in vivo tests. The main objectives for this study were as follows: to identify the essential oils that have been used in cosmetic formulations; and compile information on the main biological activities tested in cosmetic formulations. METHODS A search was carried out until 2021 in the scientific databases PubMed and Web of Science, using different search terms, and several scientific articles from in vitro and in vivo studies in animals and clinical trials were selected and analyzed of involving development dermocosmetic formulations containing essential oils and the analysis of their biological activities. RESULTS These studies demonstrate that the antimicrobial activity (antibacterial and antifungal) is the one most studied, mainly through in vitro tests. In vivo studies were also carried out either in animals or in clinical studies showing different effects, such as repellent action, inhibition of hair growth, and action against migraine. Regarding formulations, it was evident that creams are the most used. CONCLUSIONS There is enormous potential for the use of essential oils in future formulations in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industry, in particular as preservatives, exploring their other biological activities.
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Affiliation(s)
- Cassandra Cunha
- Research Unit for Inland Development (UDI), Polytechnic Institute of Guarda, Guarda, Portugal
| | - Helena Margarida Ribeiro
- Research Institute for Medicines (iMed.ULisboa), Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Lisboa, Lisboa, Portugal
| | - Márcio Rodrigues
- Research Unit for Inland Development (UDI), Polytechnic Institute of Guarda, Guarda, Portugal.,CICS-UBI - Health Sciences Research Centre, University of Beira Interior, Covilhã, Portugal
| | - André R T S Araujo
- Research Unit for Inland Development (UDI), Polytechnic Institute of Guarda, Guarda, Portugal.,LAQV/REQUIMTE, Department of Chemical Sciences, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Porto, Porto, Portugal
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Juncan AM, Moisă DG, Santini A, Morgovan C, Rus LL, Vonica-Țincu AL, Loghin F. Advantages of Hyaluronic Acid and Its Combination with Other Bioactive Ingredients in Cosmeceuticals. Molecules 2021; 26:molecules26154429. [PMID: 34361586 PMCID: PMC8347214 DOI: 10.3390/molecules26154429] [Citation(s) in RCA: 98] [Impact Index Per Article: 32.7] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 06/07/2021] [Revised: 07/14/2021] [Accepted: 07/20/2021] [Indexed: 02/07/2023] Open
Abstract
This study proposes a review on hyaluronic acid (HA) known as hyaluronan or hyaluronate and its derivates and their application in cosmetic formulations. HA is a glycosaminoglycan constituted from two disaccharides (N-acetylglucosamine and D-glucuronic acid), isolated initially from the vitreous humour of the eye, and subsequently discovered in different tissues or fluids (especially in the articular cartilage and the synovial fluid). It is ubiquitous in vertebrates, including humans, and it is involved in diverse biological processes, such as cell differentiation, embryological development, inflammation, wound healing, etc. HA has many qualities that recommend it over other substances used in skin regeneration, with moisturizing and anti-ageing effects. HA molecular weight influences its penetration into the skin and its biological activity. Considering that, nowadays, hyaluronic acid has a wide use and a multitude of applications (in ophthalmology, arthrology, pneumology, rhinology, aesthetic medicine, oncology, nutrition, and cosmetics), the present study describes the main aspects related to its use in cosmetology. The biological effect of HA on the skin level and its potential adverse effects are discussed. Some available cosmetic products containing HA have been identified from the brand portfolio of most known manufacturers and their composition was evaluated. Further, additional biological effects due to the other active ingredients (plant extracts, vitamins, amino acids, peptides, proteins, saccharides, probiotics, etc.) are presented, as well as a description of their possible toxic effects.
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Affiliation(s)
- Anca Maria Juncan
- Department of Toxicology, Faculty of Pharmacy, “Iuliu Hațieganu” University of Medicine and Pharmacy, 6 Pasteur Str., 400349 Cluj-Napoca, Romania;
- SC Aviva Cosmetics SRL, 71A Kövari Str., 400217 Cluj-Napoca, Romania
- Preclinical Department, Faculty of Medicine, “Lucian Blaga” University of Sibiu, 2A Lucian Blaga Str., 550169 Sibiu, Romania; (L.-L.R.); (A.L.V.-Ț.)
- Correspondence: or (A.M.J.); (D.G.M.); (C.M.)
| | - Dana Georgiana Moisă
- Preclinical Department, Faculty of Medicine, “Lucian Blaga” University of Sibiu, 2A Lucian Blaga Str., 550169 Sibiu, Romania; (L.-L.R.); (A.L.V.-Ț.)
- Correspondence: or (A.M.J.); (D.G.M.); (C.M.)
| | - Antonello Santini
- Department of Pharmacy, University of Napoli Federico II, Via D. Montesano 49, 80131 Napoli, Italy;
| | - Claudiu Morgovan
- Preclinical Department, Faculty of Medicine, “Lucian Blaga” University of Sibiu, 2A Lucian Blaga Str., 550169 Sibiu, Romania; (L.-L.R.); (A.L.V.-Ț.)
- Correspondence: or (A.M.J.); (D.G.M.); (C.M.)
| | - Luca-Liviu Rus
- Preclinical Department, Faculty of Medicine, “Lucian Blaga” University of Sibiu, 2A Lucian Blaga Str., 550169 Sibiu, Romania; (L.-L.R.); (A.L.V.-Ț.)
| | - Andreea Loredana Vonica-Țincu
- Preclinical Department, Faculty of Medicine, “Lucian Blaga” University of Sibiu, 2A Lucian Blaga Str., 550169 Sibiu, Romania; (L.-L.R.); (A.L.V.-Ț.)
| | - Felicia Loghin
- Department of Toxicology, Faculty of Pharmacy, “Iuliu Hațieganu” University of Medicine and Pharmacy, 6 Pasteur Str., 400349 Cluj-Napoca, Romania;
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Nowak K, Jabłońska E, Ratajczak-Wrona W. Controversy around parabens: Alternative strategies for preservative use in cosmetics and personal care products. ENVIRONMENTAL RESEARCH 2021; 198:110488. [PMID: 33221305 DOI: 10.1016/j.envres.2020.110488] [Citation(s) in RCA: 42] [Impact Index Per Article: 14.0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 05/26/2020] [Revised: 11/09/2020] [Accepted: 11/12/2020] [Indexed: 06/11/2023]
Abstract
Parabens usage as preservatives in cosmetics and personal care products have been debated among scientists and consumers. Parabens are easy to production, effective and cheap, but its safety status remains controversial. Other popular cosmetics preservatives are formaldehyde, triclosan, methylisothiazolinone, methylchloroisothiazolinone, phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol and sodium benzoate. Although their high antimicrobial effectiveness, they also exhibit some adverse health effects. Lately, scientists have shown that natural substances such as essential oils and plant extracts present antimicrobial potential. However, their use in cosmetic is a challenge. The present review article is a comprehensive summary of the available methods to prevent microbial contamination of cosmetics and personal care products, which can allow reducing the use of parabens in these products.
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Affiliation(s)
- Karolina Nowak
- Department of Immunology, Medical University of Bialystok, Poland.
| | - Ewa Jabłońska
- Department of Immunology, Medical University of Bialystok, Poland
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Wińska K, Mączka W, Łyczko J, Grabarczyk M, Czubaszek A, Szumny A. Essential Oils as Antimicrobial Agents-Myth or Real Alternative? Molecules 2019; 24:molecules24112130. [PMID: 31195752 PMCID: PMC6612361 DOI: 10.3390/molecules24112130] [Citation(s) in RCA: 241] [Impact Index Per Article: 48.2] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 04/30/2019] [Revised: 06/03/2019] [Accepted: 06/04/2019] [Indexed: 02/07/2023] Open
Abstract
Herbs and the essential oils derived from them have been used from the beginning of human history for different purposes. Their beneficial properties have been applied to mask unpleasant odors, attract the attention of other people, add flavor and aroma properties to prepared dishes, perfumes, and cosmetics, etc. Herbs and essential oils (EOs) have also been used in medicine because of their biological properties, such as larvicidal action, analgesic and anti-inflammatory properties, antioxidant, fungicide, and antitumor activities, and many more. Many EOs exhibit antimicrobial properties, which is extremely important in fields of science and industry, such as medicine, agriculture, or cosmetology. Among the 250 EOs which are commercially available, about a dozen possess high antimicrobial potential. According to available papers and patents, EOs seem to be a potential alternative to synthetic compounds, especially because of the resistance that has been increasingly developed by pathogenic microorganisms. In this review we summarize the latest research studies about the most-active EOs that are known and used because of their antimicrobial properties. Finally, it is noteworthy that the antimicrobial activities of EOs are not preeminent for all strains. Further investigations should, thus, focus on targeting EOs and microorganisms.
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Affiliation(s)
- Katarzyna Wińska
- Department of Chemistry, Wrocław University of Environmental and Life Sciences, Norwida 25, 50-375 Wrocław, Poland.
| | - Wanda Mączka
- Department of Chemistry, Wrocław University of Environmental and Life Sciences, Norwida 25, 50-375 Wrocław, Poland.
| | - Jacek Łyczko
- Department of Chemistry, Wrocław University of Environmental and Life Sciences, Norwida 25, 50-375 Wrocław, Poland.
| | - Małgorzata Grabarczyk
- Department of Chemistry, Wrocław University of Environmental and Life Sciences, Norwida 25, 50-375 Wrocław, Poland.
| | - Anna Czubaszek
- Department of Fermentation and Cereals Technology, Wrocław University of Environmental and Life Sciences, Chełmońskiego 37/41, 51-630 Wrocław, Poland.
| | - Antoni Szumny
- Department of Chemistry, Wrocław University of Environmental and Life Sciences, Norwida 25, 50-375 Wrocław, Poland.
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Vijayaraghavan K, Rajkumar J, Seyed MA. Phytochemical screening, free radical scavenging and antimicrobial potential of Chromolaena odorata leaf extracts against pathogenic bacterium in wound infections– a multispectrum perspective. BIOCATALYSIS AND AGRICULTURAL BIOTECHNOLOGY 2018. [DOI: 10.1016/j.bcab.2018.05.014] [Citation(s) in RCA: 18] [Impact Index Per Article: 3.0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 11/26/2022]
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Kočevar Glavač N, Lunder M. Preservative efficacy of selected antimicrobials of natural origin in a cosmetic emulsion. Int J Cosmet Sci 2018; 40:276-284. [PMID: 29729020 DOI: 10.1111/ics.12461] [Citation(s) in RCA: 16] [Impact Index Per Article: 2.7] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 01/11/2018] [Accepted: 04/21/2018] [Indexed: 12/14/2022]
Abstract
OBJECTIVE To investigate the efficacy of 13 antimicrobial substances (11 substances of natural origin and two conventional preservatives as controls) at two concentrations in an o/w cosmetic emulsion. METHODS Cosmetic formulations were analysed for total aerobic bacterial count and total combined yeast count according to the European Pharmacopoeia 8.0. Challenge tests were performed according to the ISO 11930 standard. RESULTS The total aerobic bacterial count, the total combined yeast count and the total aerobic mesophilic microorganisms were below the acceptable limit for all cosmetic formulations. Challenge test criterion A was fulfilled by all antimicrobials of natural origin, except levulinic acid in the challenge test with Candida albicans, Lactobacillus ferment in the challenge test with C. albicans and Pseudomonas aeruginosa, and grapefruit seed extract in the challenge test with C. albicans. Phenoxyethanol and the combination of methylparaben and propylparaben were inefficient at the minimum studied concentrations. CONCLUSION The results offer important comparative data on the level of preservative efficacy within the group of antimicrobials of natural origin and in reference to some typical, widely used conventional preservatives. Further research must be encouraged regarding cosmetic over-preservation. This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved.
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Affiliation(s)
- Nina Kočevar Glavač
- University of Ljubljana, Faculty of Pharmacy, Department of Pharmaceutical Biology, Aškerčeva cesta 7, 1000, Ljubljana, Slovenia
| | - Mojca Lunder
- University of Ljubljana, Faculty of Pharmacy, Department of Pharmaceutical Biology, Aškerčeva cesta 7, 1000, Ljubljana, Slovenia
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Herman A. Antimicrobial Ingredients as Preservative Booster and Components of Self-Preserving Cosmetic Products. Curr Microbiol 2018; 76:744-754. [PMID: 29651551 DOI: 10.1007/s00284-018-1492-2] [Citation(s) in RCA: 19] [Impact Index Per Article: 3.2] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 10/16/2017] [Accepted: 04/10/2018] [Indexed: 01/24/2023]
Abstract
This review reports cosmetic ingredients with antimicrobial activity including synthetic and natural (plant and microbial) origin as alternative for preservatives used in cosmetics as well described mechanism of their action.
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Affiliation(s)
- Anna Herman
- Faculty of Cosmetology, The Academy of Cosmetics and Health Care, Podwale 13 Street, 00-252, Warsaw, Poland.
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Gilca M, Tiplica GS, Salavastru CM. Traditional and ethnobotanical dermatology practices in Romania and other Eastern European countries. Clin Dermatol 2018; 36:338-352. [PMID: 29908576 DOI: 10.1016/j.clindermatol.2018.03.008] [Citation(s) in RCA: 42] [Impact Index Per Article: 7.0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 12/19/2022]
Abstract
The geographic and ecologic specificity of Romania and other Eastern European countries has resulted in the development of an exceptional diversity of medicinal plants. The purpose of this study was to provide an overview of the ethnobotanical dermatology practices based on the use of medicinal plants in this region. The indications, ethnopharmacologic activities, parts used, and administration of 106 medicinal plants are provided. We also discuss the relative importance of these species, using two modified indices of quantitative ethnobotany: Use Value Index and Relative Dermatologic Importance, which were calculated on the basis of etic constructions (indications and ethnopharmacologic activities). The species identified to have the highest dermatologic importance (on a scale of 100) were Brassica oleracea L. (100), Matricaria chamomilla L. (79.17), Arctium lappa L. (74.82), Daucus carota L. (72.28), Equisetum arvense L. (70.47), Juglans regia L. (69.93), Populous nigra L. (65.94), Symphytum officinale L. (63.59), Chelidonium majus L. (57.78), Calendula officinalis L. (57.78), Achillea millefolium L. (57.43), Melilotus officinalis L. (55.25), Allium cepa L. (51.45), Quercus robur L. (51.08), and Betula spp. (50.91). This preliminary study on ethnobotanical dermatology practices indicates that Eastern European traditional medical knowledge represents an important heritage that is currently underexploited.
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Affiliation(s)
- Marilena Gilca
- Biochemistry Department, Faculty of General Medicine, Carol Davila University of Medicine and Pharmacy, Bucharest, Romania.
| | - George Sorin Tiplica
- Dermatology Department, 2nd Clinic of Dermatology, Colentina Clinical Hospital, Carol Davila University of Medicine and Pharmacy, Bucharest, Romania
| | - Carmen Maria Salavastru
- Dermatology Department, Pediatric Dermatology Unit, Colentina Clinical Hospital, Carol Davila University of Medicine and Pharmacy, Bucharest, Romania
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