The regulation of epidermal melanogenesis via cAMP and/or PKC signaling pathways: insights for the development of hypopigmenting agents

PRKC Fusion Melanocytic Tumors, a Subgroup of Melanocytic Tumors More Closely Aligned to Blue Nevi Than to PRKAR1A-inactivated Pigmented Epithelioid Melanocytomas

Tumors morphologically classified as pigmented epithelioid melanocytomas (PEMs) are genomically diverse, with the 2 most common genomic subtypes being PRKC fusions or PRKAR1A inactivating mutations. PRKC fusions activate the Gαq/11 pathway similar to blue nevi. Conversely, inactivating mutations in PRKAR1A activate the Gαs pathway. We hypothesize that PRKC fusions have greater genomic overlap with blue nevi compared with PRKAR1A-inactivated PEMs. We characterized the clinical and morphologic features of 21 PRKC and PRKACB fusion melanocytic tumors and compared this to PRKAR1A mutated PEMs. To test our hypothesis regarding greater genomic overlap between PRKC fusions and blue nevi relative to PRKAR1A mutated PEMs, we performed a principal component analysis (PCA) using mRNA expression data. Lastly, we performed a meta-analysis focusing on the outcome data of PRKC fusions. PRKC fusions occur at a younger median age than PRKAR1A mutated PEMs (16 vs. 27). Histologically, PRKC fusions have solid aggregates of epithelioid melanocytes not typical of PRKAR1A mutated PEMs. The PCA plot showed no overlap between the PRKC fusion group and the PRKAR1A-mutated PEMs. There was a significant overlap between PRKC fusions and blue nevi. A meta-analysis of PRKC fusion cases in the literature suggests melanoma is uncommon, but the loss of BAP-1 nuclear expression may be associated with an adverse prognosis as in tumors from the blue nevus family. PRKC fusion melanocytic tumors have greater genomic overlap with blue nevi compared with PRKAR1A mutated PEMs. We recommend categorizing benign PRKC fusion melanocytic tumors as blue fusion nevi/tumors.

Comparative transcriptome analysis reveals growth and molecular pathway of body color regulation in turbot (Scophthalmus maximus) exposed to different light spectrum

Fish body color changes play vital roles in adapting to ecological light environment and influencing market value. However, the initial mechanisms governing the changes remain unknown. Here, we scrutinized the impact of light spectrum on turbot (Scophthalmus maximus) body coloration, exposing them to red, blue, and full light spectra from embryo to 90 days post hatch. Transcriptome and quantitative real-time PCR (qRT-PCR) analyses were employed to elucidate underlying biological processes. The results showed that red light induced dimorphism in turbot juvenile skin pigmentation: some exhibited black coloration (Red_Black_Surface, R_B_S), while others displayed lighter skin (Red_White_Bottom, R_W_B), with red light leading to reduced skin lightness (L*) and body weight, particularly in R_B_S group. Transcriptomic and qRT-PCR analyses showcased upregulated gene expressions related to melanin synthesis in R_B_S individuals, notably tyrosinase (tyr), tyrosinase-related protein 1 (tyrp1), and dopachrome tautomerase (dct), alongside solute carrier family 24 member 5 (slc24a5) and oculocutaneous albinism type II (oca2) as pivotal regulators. Nervous system emerged as a critical mediator in spectral environment-driven color regulation. N-methyl d-aspartate (NMDA) glutamate receptor, and calcium signaling pathway emerged as pivotal links intertwining spectral conditions, neural signal transduction, and color regulation. The individual differences in NMDA glutamate receptor expression and subsequent neural excitability seemed responsible for dichromatic body coloration in red light-expose juveniles. This study provides new insights into the comprehending of fish adaptation to environment and methods for fish body color regulation and could potentially help enhance the economic benefit of fish farming industry.

The role of aryl hydrocarbon receptor in vitiligo: a review

Vitiligo is an acquired autoimmune dermatosis characterized by patchy skin depigmentation, causing significant psychological distress to the patients. Genetic susceptibility, environmental triggers, oxidative stress, and autoimmunity contribute to melanocyte destruction in vitiligo. Due to the diversity and complexity of pathogenesis, the combination of inhibiting melanocyte destruction and stimulating melanogenesis gives the best results in treating vitiligo. The aryl hydrocarbon receptor (AhR) is a ligand-activated transcription factor that can regulate the expression of various downstream genes and play roles in cell differentiation, immune response, and physiological homeostasis maintenance. Recent studies suggested that AhR signaling pathway was downregulated in vitiligo. Activation of AhR pathway helps to activate antioxidant pathways, inhibit abnormal immunity response, and upregulate the melanogenesis gene, thereby protecting melanocytes from oxidative stress damage, controlling disease progression, and promoting lesion repigmentation. Here, we review the relevant literature and summarize the possible roles of the AhR signaling pathway in vitiligo pathogenesis and treatment, to further understand the links between the AhR and vitiligo, and provide new potential therapeutic strategies.

Integrated microRNA-mRNA analysis reveals a possible molecular mechanism of enteritis susceptibility in Litopenaeus vannamei

Enteritis is one of the main diseases affecting Pacific whiteleg shrimp (Litopenaeus vannamei) in recent years, and it has resulted in huge losses to the aquaculture industry. Prior to this study, the molecular mechanism underlying enteritis in L. vannamei was unclear, and comprehensive multi-omics analysis had not been conducted. In this study, 1209 differentially expressed genes (DEGs) were identified from the hepatopancreas of L. vannamei with and without enteritis. Kyoto Encyclopedia of Genes and Genomes analysis showed that genes were significantly enriched in immune, metabolic, and endocrine regulatory pathways. Forty-eight significantly different microRNAs (miRNAs) were identified in the miRNA-Seq analysis. Further functional annotation analysis showed that the regulatory pathway of target gene enrichment of differentially expressed miRNAs was consistent with DEGs. Through miRNA-mRNA integration analysis, 47 meaningful miRNA-mRNA pairs were obtained, of which melanogenesis and pancreatic secretion were considered key pathways. Subsequent miRNA-mRNA interaction network analysis revealed that mja-miR-6493-3p, Mja-miR-6494, novel-198, novel-272, novel-261, novel-200, novel-183, novel-184, novel-237, and novel-192 may be key miRNAs involved in the regulation of these two signaling pathways. Finally, the RAS signaling pathway was found to inhibit the translation level of proteins in the hepatopancreas. These results suggest that target gene integration analysis of mRNA-miRNA can reveal the molecular mechanism underlying enteritis in L. vannamei and also provide valuable new insights for resisting enteritis.

A Comprehensive Review of Mammalian Pigmentation: Paving the Way for Innovative Hair Colour-Changing Cosmetics

The natural colour of hair shafts is formed at the bulb of hair follicles, and it is coupled to the hair growth cycle. Three critical processes must happen for efficient pigmentation: (1) melanosome biogenesis in neural crest-derived melanocytes, (2) the biochemical synthesis of melanins (melanogenesis) inside melanosomes, and (3) the transfer of melanin granules to surrounding pre-cortical keratinocytes for their incorporation into nascent hair fibres. All these steps are under complex genetic control. The array of natural hair colour shades are ascribed to polymorphisms in several pigmentary genes. A myriad of factors acting via autocrine, paracrine, and endocrine mechanisms also contributes for hair colour diversity. Given the enormous social and cosmetic importance attributed to hair colour, hair dyeing is today a common practice. Nonetheless, the adverse effects of the long-term usage of such cosmetic procedures demand the development of new methods for colour change. In this context, case reports of hair lightening, darkening and repigmentation as a side-effect of the therapeutic usage of many drugs substantiate the possibility to tune hair colour by interfering with the biology of follicular pigmentary units. By scrutinizing mammalian pigmentation, this review pinpoints key targetable processes for the development of innovative cosmetics that can safely change the hair colour from the inside out.

Growth Factors Upregulated by Uric Acid Affect Guanine Deaminase-Induced Melanogenesis

Uric acid produced by guanine deaminase (GDA) is involved in photoaging and hyperpigmentation. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) generated by uric acid plays a role in photoaging. However, the mechanism by which uric acid stimulates melanogenesis in GDA-overexpressing keratinocytes is unclear. Keratinocyte-derived paracrine factors have been identified as important mechanisms of ultraviolet-induced melanogenesis. Therefore, the role of paracrine melanogenic growth factors in GDA-induced hypermelanosis mediated by uric acid was examined. The relationships between ROS and these growth factors were examined. Primary cultured normal keratinocytes overexpressed with wild type or mutant GDA and those treated with xanthine or uric acid in the presence or absence of allopurinol, H₂O₂, or N-acetylcysteine (NAC) were used in this study. Intracellular and extracellular bFGF and SCF levels were increased in keratinocytes by wild type, but not by loss-of-function mutants of GDA overexpression. Culture supernatants from GDA-overexpressing keratinocytes stimulated melanogenesis, which was restored by anti-bFGF and anti-SCF antibodies. Allopurinol treatment reduced the expression levels of bFGF and SCF in both GDA-overexpressing and normal keratinocytes exposed to exogenous xanthine; the exogenous uric acid increased their expression levels. H₂O₂-stimulated tyrosinase expression and melanogenesis were restored by NAC pretreatment. However, H₂O₂ or NAC did not upregulate or downregulate bFGF or SCF, respectively. Overall, uric acid could be involved in melanogenesis induced by GDA overexpression in keratinocytes via bFGF and SCF upregulation not via ROS generation.

Diarylpropionitrile inhibits melanogenesis via protein kinase A/cAMP-response element-binding protein/microphthalmia-associated transcription factor signaling pathway in α-MSH-stimulated B16F10 melanoma cells

Diarylpropionitrile (DPN), a selective agonist for estrogen receptor β (ERβ), has been reported to regulate various hormonal responses through activation of ERβ in tissues including the mammary gland and brain. However, the effect of DPN on melanogenesis independent of ERβ has not been studied. The aim of this study is to examine the possibility of anti-melanogenic effect of DPN and its underlying mechanism. Melanin contents and cellular tyrosinase activity assay indicated that DPN inhibited melanin biosynthesis in alpha-melanocyte stimulating hormone-stimulated B16F10 melanoma cell line. However, DPN had no direct influence on in vitro tyrosinase catalytic activity. On the other hand, 17β-estradiol had no effect on inhibition of melanogenesis, suggesting that the DPN-mediated suppression of melanin production was not related with estrogen signaling pathway. Immunoblotting analysis showed that DPN down-regulated the expression of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), a central transcription factor of melanogenesis and its down-stream genes including tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein (TRP)-1, and TRP-2. Also, DPN attenuated the phosphorylation of protein kinase A (PKA) and cAMP-response element-binding protein (CREB). Additionally, DPN suppressed the melanin synthesis in UVB-irradiated HaCaT conditioned media culture system suggesting that DPN has potential as an anti-melanogenic activity in physiological conditions. Collectively, our data show that DPN inhibits melanogenesis via down-regulation of PKA/CREB/MITF signaling pathway.

Fraxinol Stimulates Melanogenesis in B16F10 Mouse Melanoma Cells through CREB/MITF Signaling

Melanin pigment produced in melanocytes plays a protective role against ultraviolet radiation. Selective destruction of melanocytes causes chronic depigmentation conditions such as vitiligo, for which there are very few specific medical treatments. Here, we found that fraxinol, a natural coumarin from Fraxinus plants, effectively stimulated melanogenesis. Treatment of B16-F10 cells with fraxinol increased the melanin content and tyrosinase activity in a concentration-dependent manner without causing cytotoxicity. Additionally, fraxinol enhanced the mRNA expression of melanogenic enzymes such as tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein-1, and tyrosinase-related protein-2. Fraxinol also increased the expression of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor at both mRNA and protein levels. Fraxinol upregulated the phosphorylation of cyclic adenosine monophosphate (cAMP) response element-binding protein (CREB). Furthermore, H89, a cAMP-dependent protein kinase A inhibitor, decreased fraxinol-induced CREB phosphorylation and microphthalmia-associated transcription factor expression and significantly attenuated the fraxinol-induced melanin content and intracellular tyrosinase activity. These results suggest that fraxinol enhances melanogenesis via a protein kinase A-mediated mechanism, which may be useful for developing potent melanogenesis stimulators.

Upregulated Guanine Deaminase Is Involved in Hyperpigmentation of Seborrheic Keratosis via Uric Acid Release

Seborrheic keratosis, which is a benign tumor composed of epidermal keratinocytes, develops common in the elderly. Uric acid generated by upregulated guanine deaminase (GDA) has been identified to cause UV-induced keratinocyte senescence in seborrheic keratosis. Seborrheic keratosis is also frequently pigmented. Growing evidences indicate that hyperuricemia is a risk factor of acanthosis nigricans, an acquired skin hyperpigmentation. The objective of this study was to investigate role of GDA and its metabolic end product, uric acid, in hyperpigmentation of patients with seborrheic keratosis using their lesional and non-lesional skin specimen sets and cultured primary human epidermal keratinocytes with or without GDA overexpression or uric acid treatment. GDA-overexpressing keratinocytes or their conditioned media containing uric acid increased expression levels of MITF and tyrosinase in melanocytes. Uric acid released from keratinocytes was facilitated by ABCG2 transporter with the help of PDZK1 interaction. Released uric acid was taken by URAT1 transporter in melanocytes, stimulating melanogenesis through p38 MAPK activation. Overall, GDA upregulation in seborrheic keratosis plays a role in melanogenesis via its metabolic end product uric acid, suggesting that seborrheic keratosis as an example of hyperpigmentation associated with photoaging.

Melanogenesis and Melasma Treatment

Melanocytes are highly specialised dendritic cells that transfer melanin to keratinocytes in subcellular lysosome-like organelles called melanosomes, where melanin is synthesised and stored. Melanin is a complex pigment that provides colour and photoprotection to the skin, hair, and eyes of mammals. The regulation of melanogenesis includes various mechanisms and factors including genetic, environmental, and endocrine factors. Knowledge of the pigmentation process is important not only to understand hyperpigmentation but also to design treatments and therapies to treat them. Whitening cosmetics with anti-melanogenesis activity are very popular. In the present manuscript, we review the mechanisms and the signalling pathways involved in skin pigmentation and we specifically focus on the alteration of melanogenesis that leads to melasma and results in hyperpigmentation. Finally, current therapies and treatments including topical, oral, and phototherapies are discussed and described, with a special emphasis on the cosmetics’ action.

The regulatory role of Korean ginseng in skin cells

As the largest organ in our body, the skin acts as a barrier against external stress and damages. There are various cell types of skin, such as keratinocytes, melanocytes, fibroblasts, and skin stem cells. Korean ginseng, which is one of the biggest distributions of ginseng worldwide, is processed into different products, such as functional food, cosmetics, and medical supplies. This review aims to introduce the functional role of Korean ginseng on different dermal cell types, including the impact of Korean ginseng in anti-photodamaging, anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidative, anti-melanogenic, and wound healing activities, etc. We propose that this information could form the basis of future research of ginseng-derived components in skin health.

Identification of the ceRNA networks in α-MSH-induced melanogenesis of melanocytes

α-MSH is known for melanogenesis stimulation, and ceRNA is a new method involved in physiological regulation. However, whether ceRNA participates in α-MSH-induced melanogenesis remains unknown. We used ceRNA array to detect the expression profiles of lncRNAs, circRNAs, and mRNAs in melanocytes after α-MSH treatment. Moreover, the melanogenesis-related ceRNA regulatory networks were screened and validated. The expression profile analysis showed that 20 lncRNAs and 49 circRNAs changed five-fold after α-MSH treatment, while 933 mRNAs changed two-fold. Based on differentially expressed genes, GO and KEGG analysis were conducted and revealed that 14 genes were enriched in melanogenesis. Then, multiple lncRNA or circRNA-miRNA-mRNA ceRNA networks and lncRNA/circRNA-miRNA-mRNA quaternary ceRNA networks were identified. Thereinto, ENST00000606533, circ_0091223, and TYR expression were upregulated in α-MSH-treated melanocytes, while their complementary miR-1291 was decreased. Dual-luciferase reporter assay further verified that ENST00000606533 and circ_0091223 could bind to miR-1291. ENST00000606533 and circ_0091223 siRNAs decreased circ_0091223, ENST00000606533, and TYR expression, but increased miR-1291 expression. Conversely, miR-1291 mimics inhibited ENST00000606533, circ_0091223, and TYR expression. Moreover, miR-1291 inhibitor could reverse the inhibitory effect of the two siRNAs on TYR expression. Hence, the "ENST00000606533/circ_0091223-miR-1291-TYR" ceRNA network is involved in α-MSH-induced melanogenesis, and ceRNA networks may be potential therapeutic targets for skin pigmentation disorders.

FGIN-1-27 Inhibits Melanogenesis by Regulating Protein Kinase A/cAMP-Responsive Element-Binding, Protein Kinase C-β, and Mitogen-Activated Protein Kinase Pathways

FGIN-1-27 is a synthetic mitochondrial diazepam binding inhibitor receptor (MDR) agonist that has demonstrated pro-apoptotic, anti-anxiety, and steroidogenic activity in various studies. Here we report, for the first time, the anti-melanogenic efficacy of FGIN-1-27 in vitro and in vivo. FGIN-1-27 significantly inhibited basal and α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-, 1-Oleoyl-2-acetyl-sn-glycerol (OAG)- and Endothelin-1 (ET-1)-induced melanogenesis without cellular toxicity. Mushroom tyrosinase activity assay showed that FGIN-1-27 did not directly inhibit tyrosinase activity, which suggested that FGIN-1-27 was not a direct inhibitor of tyrosinase. Although it was not capable of modulating the catalytic activity of mushroom tyrosinase in vitro, FGIN-1-27 downregulated the expression levels of key proteins that function in melanogenesis. FGIN-1-27 played these functions mainly by suppressing the PKA/CREB, PKC-β, and MAPK pathways. Once inactivated, it decreased the expression of MITF, tyrosinase, TRP-1, TRP-2, and inhibited the tyrosinase activity, finally inhibiting melanogenesis. During in vivo experiments, FGIN-1-27 inhibited the body pigmentation of zebrafish and reduced UVB-induced hyperpigmentation in guinea pig skin, but not a reduction of numbers of melanocytes. Our findings indicated that FGIN-1-27 exhibited no cytotoxicity and inhibited melanogenesis in both in vitro and in vivo models. It may prove quite useful as a safer skin-whitening agent.

Carvedilol, an Adrenergic Blocker, Suppresses Melanin Synthesis by Inhibiting the cAMP/CREB Signaling Pathway in Human Melanocytes and Ex Vivo Human Skin Culture

Catecholamines function via G protein-coupled receptors, triggering an increase in intracellular levels of 3′,5′-cyclic adenosine monophosphate (cAMP) in various cells. Catecholamine biosynthesis and the β-adrenergic receptor exist in melanocytes; thus, catecholamines may play critical roles in skin pigmentation. However, their action and mechanisms mediating melanogenesis in human skin have not yet been investigated. Therefore, we examined the potential anti-melanogenetic effect of carvedilol, a nonselective β-blocker with weak α1-blocking activities. Carvedilol reduced melanin content and cellular tyrosinase activity without compromising cellular viability in normal human melanocytes as well as in mel-Ab immortalized mouse melanocytes. Carvedilol downregulated microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein (TRP)-1, and TRP-2. Carvedilol treatment led to the downregulation of phosphor-cAMP response element-binding protein (CREB). Moreover, the increase in cAMP levels upon treatment with forskolin reversed the anti-melanogenic action of carvedilol. In addition, carvedilol remarkably reduced the melanin index in ultraviolet-irradiated human skin cultures. Taken together, our results indicate that carvedilol effectively suppresses melanogenesis in human melanocytes and ex vivo human skin by inhibiting cAMP/protein kinase A/CREB signaling. The anti-melanogenic effects of carvedilol have potential significance for skin whitening agents.

5-Hydroxytryptamine (5-HT) Positively Regulates Pigmentation via Inducing Melanoblast Specification and Melanin Synthesis in Zebrafish Embryos

It has been reported that 5-hydroxytryptamine (5-HT) is related to melanogenesis in mice and melanoma cells. However, the underlying mechanisms of 5-HT in regulating pigmentation remains unknown. In this study, we aim to clarify the regulatory mechanism of 5-HT in the pigmentation of zebrafish embryos and B16F10 cells. Our results show that 5-HT induces the pigmentation of zebrafish embryos in a dosage-dependent manner at concentrations of 0.01-1 mM. Whole mount in situ hybridizations and qRT-PCR in zebrafish embryos indicate that the expression of neural crest cells marker gene sox10 is not changed in embryos treated with 5-HT compared to control group. The expression of mitfa, the marker gene of melanoblasts, is increased in the presence of 5-HT. Furthermore, 5-HT increased the expression of regeneration associated genes, namely kita, mitfa, and dct, after ablation of the melanogenic cells in zebrafish embryos. The experiments in B16F10 cells show that 5-HT promotes melanin synthesis by up-regulating the expression of key proteins MITF, TYR, TRP-1, and TRP-2. Especially, the small molecule inhibitor of PKA signaling, but not AKT and MAPK signaling, attenuates the up-regulation of MITF and TYR resulted from 5-HT induction in B16F10 cells. These results will help us to further understand the regulatory network of vertebrate pigmentation.

Susceptibility and Resistance Mechanisms During Photodynamic Therapy of Melanoma

Melanoma is the most aggressive malignant skin tumor and arises from melanocytes. The resistance of melanoma cells to various treatments results in rapid tumor growth and high mortality. As a local therapeutic modality, photodynamic therapy has been successfully applied for clinical treatment of skin diseases. Photodynamic therapy is a relatively new treatment method for various types of malignant tumors in humans and, compared to conventional treatment methods, has fewer side effects, and is more accurate and non-invasive. Although several in vivo and in vitro studies have shown encouraging results regarding the potential benefits of photodynamic therapy as an adjuvant treatment for melanoma, its clinical application remains limited owing to its relative inefficiency. This review article discusses the use of photodynamic therapy in melanoma treatment as well as the latest progress made in deciphering the mechanism of tolerance. Lastly, potential targets are identified that may improve photodynamic therapy against melanoma cells.

L-765,314 Suppresses Melanin Synthesis by Regulating Tyrosinase Activity

Although melanin production is a key self-defense mechanism against ultraviolet radiation (UVR)-induced skin damage, uneven or excessive deposition of melanin causes hyperpigmentary disorders. Currently available whitening agents are unsatisfactory because of issues with efficacy and safety. To develop more effective depigmenting agents, we performed high-throughput melanin content assay screening using the B16F10 melanoma cell line and identified L-765,314 as a drug that suppressed melanin production in cultured melanocytes in a dose-dependent manner as well as cAMP- or 12-O-tetradecanoylphorbol 13-acetate (TPA)-stimulated melanin production without cytotoxicity. Interestingly, melanogenic gene expression was not altered by L-765,314. Rather, diminished melanin production by L-765,314 appeared to be caused by downregulation of tyrosinase activity via inhibition of protein kinase C (PKC). Because L-765,314 did not show any adverse effect in melanocytes, altogether our data suggest that L-765,314 could be a potential therapeutic candidate for skin hyperpigmentary disorders and further discovery of selective inhibitors targeting PKC might be a promising strategy for the development of depigmenting agents to treat hyperpigmentary disorders.

Intrinsic and extrinsic regulation of human skin melanogenesis and pigmentation

In human skin, melanogenesis is a tightly regulated process. Indeed, several extracellular signals are transduced via dedicated signalling pathways and mostly converge to MITF, a transcription factor integrating upstream signalling and regulating downstream genes involved in the various inherent mechanisms modulating melanogenesis. The synthesis of melanin pigments occurs in melanocytes inside melanosomes where melanogenic enzymes (tyrosinase and related proteins) are addressed with the help of specific protein complexes. The melanosomes loaded with melanin are then transferred to keratinocytes. A more elaborate level of melanogenesis regulation comes into play via the action of non-coding RNAs (microRNAs, lncRNAs). Besides this canonical regulation, melanogenesis can also be modulated by other non-specific intrinsic pathways (hormonal environment, inflammation) and by extrinsic factors (solar irradiation such as ultraviolet irradiation, environmental pollution). We developed a bioinformatic interaction network gathering the multiple aspects of melanogenesis and skin pigmentation as a resource to better understand and study skin pigmentation biology.

The promise of marine molecules as cosmetic active ingredients

The marine environment represents an underexploited resource for the discovery of novel products, despite its high level of biological and chemical diversity. With increasing awareness of the harmful effects of chronic ultraviolet exposure, and a universal desire to improve cosmetic appearance, the market for new cosmetic ingredients is growing, and current trends have generated a greater demand for products sourced from the environment. A growing number of novel molecules from marine flora and fauna exhibit potent and effective dermatological activities. Secondary metabolites isolated from macroalgae, including carotenoids and polyphenols, have demonstrated antioxidant, anti-ageing and anti-inflammatory activities. In addition, marine extremophilic bacteria have recently been shown to produce bioactive exopolymeric molecules, some of which have been commercialized. Available data on their activities show significant antioxidant, moisturizing and anti-ageing activities, but a more focussed investigation into their mechanisms and applications is required. This review surveys the reported biological activities of an emerging and growing portfolio of marine molecules that show promise in the treatment of cosmetic skin problems including ultraviolet damage, ageing and cutaneous dryness.

Extracts of Morus nigra L. Leaves Standardized in Chlorogenic Acid, Rutin and Isoquercitrin: Tyrosinase Inhibition and Cytotoxicity

Melanogenesis is a process responsible for melanin production, which is stored in melanocytes containing tyrosinase. Inhibition of this enzyme is a target in the cosmetics industry, since it controls undesirable skin conditions such as hyperpigmentation due to the overproduction of melanin. Species of the Morus genus are known for the beneficial uses offered in different parts of its plants, including tyrosinase inhibition. Thus, this project aimed to study the inhibitory activity of tyrosinase by extracts from Morus nigra leaves as well as the characterization of its chromatographic profile and cytotoxicity in order to become a new therapeutic option from a natural source. M. nigra leaves were collected, pulverized, equally divided into five batches and the standardized extract was obtained by passive maceration. There was no significant difference between batches for total solids content, yield and moisture content, which shows good reproducibility of the extraction process. Tyrosinase enzymatic activity was determined for each batch, providing the percentage of enzyme inhibition and IC₅₀ values obtained by constructing dose-response curves and compared to kojic acid, a well-known tyrosinase inhibitor. High inhibition of tyrosinase activity was observed (above 90% at 15.625 μg/mL). The obtained IC₅₀ values ranged from 5.00 μg/mL ± 0.23 to 8.49 μg/mL ± 0.59 and were compared to kojic acid (3.37 μg/mL ± 0.65). High Performance Liquid Chromatography analysis revealed the presence of chlorogenic acid, rutin and, its major compound, isoquercitrin. The chromatographic method employed was validated according to ICH guidelines and the extract was standardized using these polyphenols as markers. Cytotoxicity, assessed by MTT assay, was not observed on murine melanomas, human keratinocytes and mouse fibroblasts in tyrosinase IC₅₀ values. This study demonstrated the potential of M. nigra leaf extract as a promising whitening agent of natural source against skin hyperpigmentation.

Antimelanogenesis Activity of Hydrolyzed Ginseng Extract (GINST) via Inhibition of JNK Mitogen-activated Protein Kinase in B16F10 Cells

GINST is a hydrolyzed ginseng extract produced by an in vitro process that imitates the metabolic function of bacteria in the human digestive track and has approved by the Ministry of Food and Drug Safety of Korea for the management of postprandial hyperglycemia. Additionally, GINST has been reported to have other physiological functions including anti-aging and antioxidant effects. The objectives of this study are to compare the antimelanogenic effects of fresh ginseng extract (FGE) and GINST extract and to elucidate the functional mechanism. The concentration of total ginsenosides in FGE and GINST was measured using ultraperformance liquid chromatography with a C18 column. B16F10 cells were treated with FGE and GINST for 72 h to assess melanin content, tyrosinase activity, and protein levels of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) and tyrosinase-related protein-1 (TRP-1). The activity of kinases involved in mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK) signaling, such as extracellular signal-regulated kinases (ERK), c-Jun N-terminal kinases (JNK), and p38 mitogen-activated protein kinases (p38), were measured using western blots. While neither FGE nor GINST inhibited the activity of mushroom tyrosinase directly, GINST decreased melanogenesis and tyrosinase activity markedly. Furthermore, our results indicate that GINST downregulated the levels of MITF and TRP-1 possibly by suppressing JNK signaling. We concluded that, when compared to FGE, GINST has a superior antimelanogenic effect mediated by the downregulation of MITF, TRP-1, and intracellular tyrosinase activity via the JNK signaling pathway. Thus, we suggest that GINST has the potential to be used as a novel skin whitening agent.

Trihydroxybenzoic acid glucoside as a global skin color modulator and photo-protectant

Background

3,4,5-Trihydroxybenzoic acid glucoside (THBG), a molecule produced by an original biocatalysis-based technology, was assessed in this study with respect to its skin photoprotective capacity and its skin color control property on Asian-type skin at a clinical level and on skin explant culture models.

Methods

The double-blinded clinical study was done in comparison to a vehicle by the determination of objective color parameters thanks to recognized quantitative and qualitative analysis tools, including Chroma-Meter, VISIA-CR™, and SIAscope™. Determination of L* (brightness), a* and b* (green–red and blue–yellow chromaticity coordinates), individual typology angle, and C* (chroma) and h* (hue angle) parameters using a Chroma-Meter demonstrated that THBG is able to modify skin color while quantification of ultraviolet (UV) spots by VISIA-CR™ confirmed its photoprotective effect. The mechanism of action of THBG molecule was determined using explant skin culture model coupled to histological analysis (epidermis melanin content staining).

Results

We have demonstrated that THBG was able to modulate significantly several critical parameters involved in skin color control such as L* (brightness), a* (redness), individual typology angle (pigmentation), and hue angle (yellowness in this study), whereas no modification occurs on b* and C* parameters. We have demonstrated using histological staining that THBG decrease epidermis melanin content under unirradiated and irradiated condition. We also confirmed that THBG molecule is not a sunscreen agent.

Conclusion

This study demonstrated that THBG controls skin tone via the inhibition of melanin synthesis as well as the modulation of skin brightness, yellowness, and redness.

Sesamol decreases melanin biosynthesis in melanocyte cells and zebrafish: Possible involvement of MITF via the intracellular cAMP and p38/JNK signalling pathways

The development of antimelanogenic agents is important for the prevention of serious aesthetic problems such as melasma, freckles, age spots and chloasma. The aim of this study was to investigate the antimelanogenic effect of sesamol, an active lignan isolated from Sesamum indicum, in melan-a cells. Sesamol strongly inhibited melanin biosynthesis and the activity of intracellular tyrosinase by decreasing cyclic adenosine monophosphate (cAMP) accumulation. Sesamol significantly decreased the expression of melanogenesis-related genes, such as tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein-1,2 (TRP-1,2), microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) and melanocortin 1 receptor (MC1R). In addition, sesamol also induces phosphorylation of p38 mitogen-activated protein kinase (p38 MAPK) and c-Jun N-terminal kinase (JNK). Moreover, sesamol dose-dependently decreased zebrafish pigment formation, tyrosinase activity and expression of melanogenesis-related genes. These findings indicate that sesamol inhibited melanin biosynthesis by down-regulating tyrosinase activity and melanin production via regulation of gene expression of melanogenesis-related proteins through modulation of MITF activity, which promoted phosphorylation of p38 and JNK in melan-a cells. Together, these results suggest that sesamol strongly inhibits melanin biosynthesis, and therefore, sesamol represents a new skin-whitening agent for use in cosmetics.

Angiotensin II stimulates melanogenesis via the protein kinase C pathway

Melanogenesis is a physiological process that results in the synthesis of melanin pigments, which serve a crucial function in hyperpigmentation. The aim of the present study was to determine the effects of angiotensin II (Ang II) on melanogenesis and to elucidate the molecular events of Ang II-induced melanogenesis. Experiments were performed on human melanocytes to elucidate the pigmenting effect of Ang II and the underlying mechanisms. The elements involved in melanogenesis, including melanin content, tyrosinase (TYR) activity, and microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) and TYR expression at the mRNA and protein levels were evaluated. Melanin content and TYR activity increased in response to Ang II treatment in a concentration-dependent manner. MITF and TYR mRNA and protein expression levels were increased significantly in response to Ang II in a concentration-dependent manner. The Ang II-induced increase in melanin synthesis was reduced significantly in response to co-treatment with Ro-32-0432, a protein kinase C (PKC) inhibitor, whereas co-treatment with H-89, a PKA inhibitor, did not attenuate the Ang II-induced increase in melanin levels. These results suggest that PKC is required for Ang II-induced pigmentation in human melanocytes and that the mechanism involves the PKC pathway and MITF upregulation.

Effect of ginseng and ginsenosides on melanogenesis and their mechanism of action

Abnormal changes in skin color induce significant cosmetic problems and affect quality of life. There are two groups of abnormal change in skin color; hyperpigmentation and hypopigmentation. Hyperpigmentation, darkening skin color by excessive pigmentation, is a major concern for Asian people with yellow–brown skin. A variety of hypopigmenting agents have been used, but treating the hyperpigmented condition is still challenging and the results are often discouraging. Panax ginseng has been used traditionally in eastern Asia to treat various diseases, due to its immunomodulatory, neuroprotective, antioxidative, and antitumor activities. Recently, several reports have shown that extract, powder, or some constituents of ginseng could inhibit melanogenesis in vivo or in vitro. The underlying mechanisms of antimelanogenic properties in ginseng or its components include the direct inhibition of key enzymes of melanogenesis, inhibition of transcription factors or signaling pathways involved in melanogenesis, decreasing production of inducers of melanogenesis, and enhancing production of antimelanogenic factor. Although there still remain some controversial issues surrounding the antimelanogenic activity of ginseng, especially in its effect on production of proinflammatory cytokines and nitric oxide, these recent findings suggest that ginseng and its constituents might be potential candidates for novel skin whitening agents.

S-(-)-10,11-dihydroxyfarnesoic acid methyl ester inhibits melanin synthesis in murine melanocyte cells

The development of antimelanogenic agents is important for the prevention of serious aesthetic problems such as melasmas, freckles, age spots, and chloasmas. In the course of screening for melanin synthesis inhibitors, we found that the culture broth from an insect morphopathogenic fungus, Beauveria bassiana CS1029, exhibits potent antimelanogenic activity. We isolated and purified an active metabolite and identified it as S-(−)-10,11-dihydroxyfarnesoic acid methyl ester (dhFAME), an insect juvenile hormone. To address whether dhFAME inhibits melanin synthesis, we first measured the size of the melanin biosynthesis inhibition zone caused by dhFAME. dhFAME also showed inhibitory activity against mushroom tyrosinase in Melan-a cells. Intracellular, dose-dependent tyrosinase inhibition activity was also confirmed by zymography. In addition, we showed that dhFAME strongly inhibits melanin synthesis in Melan-a cells. Furthermore, we compared levels of TYR, TRP-1, TRP-2, MITF, and MC1R mRNA expression by reverse-transcription polymerase chain reaction and showed that treatment of Melan-a cells with 35 μM dhFAME led to an 11-fold decrease in TYR expression, a 6-fold decrease in TRP-2 expression, and a 5-fold decrease in MITF expression. Together, these results indicate that dhFAME is a potent inhibitor of melanin synthesis that can potentially be used for cosmetic biomaterial(s).

Involvement of Transglutaminase-2 in α-MSH-Induced Melanogenesis in SK-MEL-2 Human Melanoma Cells

Skin hyperpigmentation is one of the most common skin disorders caused by abnormal melanogenesis. The mechanism and key factors at play are not fully understood. Previous reports have indicated that cystamine (CTM) inhibits melanin synthesis, though its molecular mechanism in melanogenesis remains unclear. In the present study, we investigated the effect of CTM on melanin production using ELISA reader and the expression of proteins involved in melanogenesis by Western blotting, and examined the involvement of transglutaminase-2 (Tgase-2) in SK-MEL-2 human melanoma cells by gene silencing. In the results, CTM dose-dependently suppressed melanin production and dendrite extension in α-MSH-induced melanogenesis of SK-MEL-2 human melanoma cells. CTM also suppressed α-MSH-induced chemotactic migration as well as the expressions of melanogenesis factors TRP-1, TRP-2 and MITF in α-MSH-treated SK-MEL-2 cells. Meanwhile, gene silencing of Tgase-2 suppressed dendrite extension and the expressions of TRP-1 and TRP-2 in α-MSH-treated SK-MEL-2 cells. Overall, these findings suggested that CTM suppresses α-MSH-induced melanogenesis via Tgase-2 inhibition and that therefore, Tgase-2 might be a new target in hyperpigmentation disorder therapy.

Kojyl cinnamate ester derivatives promote adiponectin production during adipogenesis in human adipose tissue-derived mesenchymal stem cells

The subcutaneous fat tissue mass gradually decreases with age, and its regulation is a strategy to develop anti-aging compounds to ameliorate the photo-aging of human skin. The adipogenesis of human adipose tissue-mesenchymal stem cells (hAT-MSCs) can be used as a model to discover novel anti-aging compounds. Cinnamomum cassia methanol extracts were identified as adipogenesis-promoting agents by natural product library screening. Cinnamates, the major chemical components of Cinnamomum cassia extracts, promoted adipogenesis in hAT-MSCs. We synthesized kojyl cinnamate ester derivatives to improve the pharmacological activity of cinnamates. Structure-activity studies of kojyl cinnamate derivatives showed that both the α,β-unsaturated carbonyl ester group and the kojic acid moiety play core roles in promoting adiponectin production during adipogenesis in hAT-MSCs. We conclude that kojyl cinnamate ester derivatives provide novel pharmacophores that can regulate adipogenesis in hAT-MSCs.