Advances and controversies in studying sunscreen delivery and toxicity

Cosmetic Products with Potential Photoprotective Effects Based on Natural Compounds Extracted from Waste of the Winemaking Industry

Grape marc is a by-product resulting from the winemaking industry that still contains beneficial compounds that can be valorized. Thus, we report here the possibility of using polyphenolic extracts of grape marc origin to obtain sun protection creams. The extractions were performed in ethanol and acetone solutions using pomace from different grape varieties (Merlot, Bläufrankisch, Fetească Neagră, Isabella) as a raw material. The obtained extracts were analyzed in order to determine the total phenolic content, the antioxidant activity, and the sun protection factor (SPF) via Mansur spectrophotometric assay. The best results were achieved using 70% ethanol in water as a solvent. The extracts with the highest potential photoprotective effects are from the Merlot variety (SPFspectrophotometric = 7.83 ± 0.76). The sunscreens were prepared using the 70% ethanolic extract of the Merlot variety evaporated to dryness, redissolved in either distilled water or ethanol. The SPF estimated in vitro via the COLIPA method showed values of 14.07 ± 1.50 and 11.46 ± 1.32 for the aqueous and ethanolic extracts, respectively, when working with a cream to polyphenolic extract a ratio of 1/1 (w/w). At the same time, the use of aqueous polyphenolic extracts ensures the better stability of creams compared with the ethanolic ones.

Advancements in sunscreen formulations: integrating polyphenolic nanocarriers and nanotechnology for enhanced UV protection

Sunscreens are essential in protecting the skin from harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation (UVR). These formulations, designed to absorb, block, or scatter UVR, offer vital protection against skin aging, sunburns, and the development of skin cancers like melanomas. However, some sunscreens, especially those containing organic/chemical compounds, can cause allergic reactions. To address this, researchers are extensively investigating formulations that incorporate plant extracts rich in polyphenols, such as flavonoids and carotenoids, which can be considered safer alternatives. Products derived from plants are commonly used in cosmetics to counteract skin aging due to their antioxidant activity that combat harmful free radicals. This review focuses on evaluating the advancements in chemical and natural sunscreens, exploring the integration of polyphenolic nanocarriers within sunscreen formulas, their interaction with UVR, and utilizing nanotechnology to enhance their effectiveness. An attempt has been made to highlight the concerns related to toxicity associated with their use and notable advancements in the regulatory aspects governing their utilization.

Acid-catalyzed phenolation of lignin with tea polyphenol: Enhancing uv resistance and oxidation resistance for potential applications

The rapid development of the industry has led to the destruction of the earth's ozone layer, resulting in an increasingly serious problem of excessive ultraviolet radiation. Exploring effective measures to address these problems has become a hot topic. Lignin shows promise in the design and preparation of anti-ultraviolet products due to its inherent properties. However, it is important to investigate way to enhance the reactivity of lignin and determine its application form in related products. In this study, phenolic reactions with tea polyphenols were conducted through acid-catalyzed conversion, utilizing organic solvent lignin as the primary material. The phenolic hydroxyl content of the original lignin increased significantly by 218.8 %, resulting in notable improvements in UV resistance and oxidation resistance for phenolic lignin. Additionally, micro-nanocapsule emulsions were formed using phenolic lignin particles as surfactants through ultrasonic cavitation with small-molecule sunscreens. A bio-based sunscreen was prepared with phenolated lignin micro-nanocapsules as the active ingredient, achieving an SPF 100.2 and demonstrating excellent stability. The sunscreen also exhibited strong antioxidant properties and impermeability, ensuring user safety. This research offers a current solution for improving the application of lignin in sunscreens while also broadening the potential uses of plant-based materials in advanced functional products.

Myconoside and Calceolarioside E Restrain UV-Induced Skin Photoaging by Activating NRF2-Mediated Defense Mechanisms

Chronic and excessive ultraviolet (UVA/UVB) irradiation exposure is known as a major contributor to premature skin aging, which leads to excessive reactive oxygen species generation, disturbed extracellular matrix homeostasis, DNA damage, and chronic inflammation. Sunscreen products are the major preventive option against UVR-induced photodamage, mostly counteracting the acute skin effects and only mildly counteracting accelerated aging. Therefore, novel anti-photoaging and photopreventive compounds are a subject of increased scientific interest. Our previous investigations revealed that the endemic plant Haberlea rhodopensis Friv. (HRE) activates the antioxidant defense through an NRF2-mediated mechanism in neutrophiles. In the present study, we aimed to investigate the photoprotective potential of HRE and two of its specialized compounds-the phenylethanoid glycosides myconoside (MYC) and calceolarioside E (CAL)-in UVA/UVB-stimulated human keratinocytes in an in vitro model of photoaging. The obtained data demonstrated that the application of HRE, MYC, and CAL significantly reduced intracellular ROS formation in UVR-exposed HaCaT cells. The NRF2/PGC-1α and TGF-1β/Smad/Wnt signaling pathways were pointed out as having a critical role in the observed CAL- and MYC-induced photoprotective effect. Collectively, CAL is worth further evaluation as a potent natural NRF2 activator and a promising photoprotective agent that leads to the prevention of UVA/UVB-induced premature skin aging.

Excellent ultraviolet-blocking properties of chiral nematic liquid crystals

We report the evaluation of chiral nematic liquid crystal (CNLC) in blocking ultraviolet (UV). The CNLC was coated on a calcium fluoride substrate to measure the spectral transmittance, which was measured to detect the UV-blocking effect of CNLC. The results show that CNLC could reduce UVB (290-320 nm) by 99.9% and UVA (320-400 nm) by 95.6%. The barrier effect of cake-shaped semi-solidified CNLC microspheres was further investigated, and it was found that cake-shaped semi-solidified CNLC microspheres could reduce UVB by 58.2% and UVA by 34.1%. This is due to the chemical absorption property of CNLC, which has UV-absorbing functional groups such as the benzene rings. And the physical reflection properties of CNLC could periodically reflect a certain wavelength of light. Liquid crystal (LC) is a rich set of soft materials with rod-like structures widely existing in nature, which is harmless to the human body and environment. Therefore, using CNLC's function of blocking UV, a new sunscreen can be developed.

Effect of Ag and Ni-Doped Cerium Oxide Nanoparticles on the Formation of ROS and Evaluation as an Alternative Physical Sunscreen Material

CeO2 nanoparticles (nanoceria) were proposed as an alternative physical sunscreen agent with antioxidant properties and comparable UV absorption performance. Green synthesis of nanoceria with Ag and Ni dopants resulted in doped nanoceria with lower catalytic activity and biologically-safe characteristics. The doped nanoceria was characterized using X-ray diffraction (XRD), transmission electron microscopy (TEM), Rancimat Instrument, and UV-Vis Spectrophotometer for SPF (Sun Protection Factor) determination. XRD and TEM analysis showed that nanoceria had been successfully formed in nanoscale-sized with a change in crystallite size due to the crystal defect phenomenon caused by dopant addition. While the Rancimat test and band gap energy analysis were conducted to evaluate the oxidative stability and reactive oxygen species formation, it was confirmed that dopant addition could decrease catalytic activity of material, resulting in Ni-doped Ce with a longer incubation time (11.81 h) than Ag-doped Ce (10.58 h) and non-doped Ce (10.30 h). In-vitro SPF value was measured using the thin layer technique of sunscreen prototype with Virgin Coconut Oil (VCO)-based emulsion, which yielded 10.862 and 5.728 SPF values for 10% Ag-doped Ce and 10% Ni-doped Ce, respectively. The dopant addition of nanoceria could reduce catalytic activity and give a decent in vitro UV-shielding performance test; thus, Ag and Ni-doped nanoceria could be seen as promising candidates for alternative physical sunscreen agents.

Innovative Approaches for Maintaining and Enhancing Skin Health and Managing Skin Diseases through Microbiome-Targeted Strategies

The skin microbiome is crucial in maintaining skin health, and its disruption is associated with various skin diseases. Prebiotics are non-digestible fibers and compounds found in certain foods that promote the activity and growth of beneficial bacteria in the gut or skin. On the other hand, live microorganisms, known as probiotics, benefit in sustaining healthy conditions when consumed in reasonable quantities. They differ from postbiotics, which are by-product compounds from bacteria that release the same effects as their parent bacteria. The human skin microbiome is vital when it comes to maintaining skin health and preventing a variety of dermatological conditions. This review explores novel strategies that use microbiome-targeted treatments to maintain and enhance overall skin health while managing various skin disorders. It is important to understand the dynamic relationship between these beneficial microorganisms and the diverse microbial communities present on the skin to create effective strategies for using probiotics on the skin. This understanding can help optimize formulations and treatment regimens for improved outcomes in skincare, particularly in developing solutions for various skin problems.

Preparation of enzymolysis porous corn starch composite microcapsules embedding organic sunscreen agents and its UV protection performance and stability

In this paper, a natural composite wall material sunscreen microcapsule was prepared, which significantly improved the SPF value and photostability of the embedded sunscreen agents. Using modified porous corn starch and whey protein as wall materials, the sunscreen agents 2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl] benzoic acid hexyl ester and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate were embedded by adsorption, emulsion, encapsulation and solidification. The embedding rate of the obtained sunscreen microcapsules was 32.71 % and the average size was 7.98 μm; the enzymatic hydrolyzed starch formed a porous structure, its X-ray diffraction pattern did not change significantly, and the specific volume and oil absorption rate increased by 39.89 % and 68.32 %, respectively, compared with those before enzymatic hydrolyzed; The porous surface of the starch after embedding the sunscreen was covered and sealed with whey protein. 120 h sunscreen penetration rate was lower than 12.48 %; Compared with the lotion containing the same amount of sunscreen but not encapsulated, the SPF value of the lotion containing sunscreen microcapsules increased by 62.24 %, and the photostability of sunscreen microcapsules increased by 66.28 % within 8 h under the irradiation intensity of 25 w/m². The wall material and the preparation method are natural and environmentally friendly, and have a good application prospect in low-leakage drug delivery system.

Development and evaluation of sunscreen cream containing solid lipid nanoparticles of Spinacia oleraceae

More research is needed to understand the benefits of environmentally safe and human-friendly herbal-based sunscreen agents against ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Because of the toxicity of synthetic chemicals in photoprotective agents, researchers were increasingly focusing on herbal photoprotective formulations. The photoprotective agent's skin retention can be considerably improved by forming solid lipid nanoparticles (SLN). The study's objective is to evaluate the photoprotective potential of sunscreen cream containing spinach (Spinacia oleracea)-loaded SLN. A solvent emulsification technique was used to develop the spinach-loaded SLN. The various characterization techniques of the developed SLN were performed. Out of all the formulations, the optimized one was fitted into cream and estimated for its photoprotective action. The images obtained from scanning electron microscopy (SEM) revealed the morphological characteristics of the prepared SLN. The sunscreen cream's viscosity, spreadability, extrudability, and release rate were within acceptable limits. The formulation's in vitro and in vivo sun protection factor (SPF) was reported to be 15.9 and 14.75, respectively. The results indicated that the prepared formulation possesses good photoprotective action. The accelerated stability tests were carried out with no noticeable changes in the parameters. Our work demonstrated the possibility of using spinach-loaded SLN as a photoprotective agent in cosmetic formulations.

Drug Delivery Strategies for Avobenzone: A Case Study of Photostabilization

Several developments and research methods are ongoing in drug technology and chemistry research to elicit effectiveness regarding the therapeutic activity of drugs along with photoprotection for their molecular integrity. The detrimental effect of UV light induces damaged cells and DNA, which leads to skin cancer and other phototoxic effects. The application of sunscreen shields to the skin is important, along with recommended UV filters. Avobenzone is widely used as a UVA filter for skin photoprotection in sunscreen formulations. However, keto-enol tautomerism propagates photodegradation into it, which further channelizes the phototoxic and photoirradiation effects, further limiting its use. Several approaches have been used to counter these issues, including encapsulation, antioxidants, photostabilizers, and quenchers. To seek the gold standard approach for photoprotection in photosensitive drugs, combinations of strategies have been implemented to identify effective and safe sunscreen agents. The stringent regulatory guidelines for sunscreen formulations, along with the availability of limited FDA-approved UV filters, have led many researchers to develop perfect photostabilization strategies for available photostable UV filters, such as avobenzone. From this perspective, the objective of the current review is to summarize the recent literature on drug delivery strategies implemented for the photostabilization of avobenzone that could be useful to frame industrially oriented potential strategies on a large scale to circumvent all possible photounstable issues of avobenzone.

A Bioinspired Skin UV Filter with Broadband UV Protection, Photostability, and Resistance to Oxidative Damage

In recent years, sunscreens' adverse impacts on the environment and biology have gained wide attention. The improvement of sunscreen safety has become one of the major priorities in skin photoprotection research. It is an effective strategy to develop bionic photoprotective materials by simulating the photoprotective mechanism existing in nature. Inspired by the photoprotective mechanisms of skin and plant leaves, the bionic photoprotective material CS-SA-PDA nanosheet was developed using the free radical grafting method and Michael addition, with natural melanin analogue polydopamine (PDA) nanoparticles and plant sunscreen molecular sinapic acid (SA) as sun protection factors and natural polymer chitosan (CS) as the connecting arm. The results show that CS-SA-PDA can effectively shield UVB and UVA due to the possible synergistic effect between PDA and SA. The introduction of polymer CS significantly improved the photostability of SA and reduced the skin permeability of PDA nanoparticles. The CS-SA-PDA nanosheet can also effectively scavenge photoinduced free radicals. Furthermore, in vivo toxicity and anti-UV evaluations confirm that CS-SA-PDA has no skin irritation and is excellent against skin photodamage, which makes it an ideal skin photoprotective material.

Review on photoprotection: a clinician’s guide to the ingredients, characteristics, adverse effects, and disease-specific benefits of chemical and physical sunscreen compounds

Photoprotection is a critical health prevention strategy to reduce the deleterious effects of ultraviolet radiation (UVR) and visible light (VL). Methods of photoprotection are reviewed in this paper, with an emphasis on sunscreen. The most appropriate sunscreen formulation for personal use depends on several factors. Active sunscreen ingredients vary in their protective effect over the UVR and VL spectrum. There are dermatologic diseases that cause photosensitivity or that are aggravated by a particular action spectrum. In these situations, sunscreen suggestions can address the specific concern. Sunscreen does not represent a single entity. Appropriate personalized sunscreen selection is critical to improve compliance and clinical outcomes. Health care providers can facilitate informed product selection with awareness of evolving sunscreen formulations and counseling patients on appropriate use. This review aims to summarize different forms of photoprotection, discuss absorption of sunscreen ingredients, possible adverse effects, and disease-specific preferences for chemical, physical or oral agents that may decrease UVR and VL harmful effects.

Zinc-metal–organic frameworks with tunable UV diffuse-reflectance as sunscreens

Background

UV exposure continues to induce many health issues, though commercial sunscreens are available. Novel UV filters with high safety and efficacy are urgently needed. Metal–organic frameworks (MOFs) could be a suitable platform for UV filter development, due to their tunable optical, electrical, and photoelectric properties by precise controlled synthesis.

Results

Herein, four zinc-based MOFs with various bandgap energies were chose to investigate their optical behaviors and evaluate their possibility as sunscreens. Zeolitic imidazolate framework-8 (ZIF-8) was found to possess the highest and widest UV reflectance, thereby protecting against sunburn and DNA damage on mouse skin and even achieving a comparable or higher anti-UV efficacy relative to the commercially available UV filters, TiO2 or ZnO, on pig skin, a model that correlates well with human skin. Also, ZIF-8 exerted appealing characteristics for topical skin use with low radical production, low skin penetration, low toxicity, high transparency, and high stability.

Conclusion

These results confirmed ZIF-8 could potentially be a safe and effective sunscreen surrogate for human, and MOFs could be a novel source to develop more effective and safe UV filters.

Graphical Abstract

Evaluation of toxicological aspects of three new benzoxazole compounds with sunscreen photophysical properties using in silico and in vitro methods

Sunscreening chemicals protect against damage caused by sunlight most absorbing UVA or UVB radiations. In this sense, 2-(2'-hydroxyphenyl)benzoxazole derivatives with amino substituents in the 4' and 5' positions have an outstandingly high Sun Protection Factor and adequate photostability, but their toxicity is not yet known. This study aimed to evaluate the toxicity of three synthetic 2-(2'-hydroxyphenyl)benzoxazole derivatives for their possible application as sunscreens. In silico tools were used in order to assess potential risks regarding mutagenic, carcinogenic, and skin sensitizing potential. Bioassays were performed in L929 cells to assess cytotoxicity in MTT assay and genotoxic activities in the Comet assay and micronucleus test. Also, the Salmonella/microsome assay was performed to evaluate gene mutations. The in silico predictions indicate a low risk of mutagenicity and carcinogenicity of the compounds while the skin sensitizing potential was low or inconclusive. The 2-(4'-amino-2'-hydroxyphenyl)benzoxazol compound was the most cytotoxic and genotoxic among the compounds evaluated in L929 cells, but none induced mutations in the Salmonella/microsome assay. The amino substituted at the 4' position of the phenyl ring appears to have greater toxicological risks than substituents at the 5' position of 2-(phenyl)benzoxazole. The findings warrant further studies of these compounds in cosmetic formulations.

Photoprotection and Photostability of a New Lignin-Gelatin-Baccharis antioquensis-Based Hybrid Biomaterial

The aim of this study was to develop a new hybrid biomaterial that could photo-stabilize and improve the photoprotective capacity of a Baccharis antioquensis extract. Different combinations of lignin/gelatin/natural extract were applied to prepare hybrid biomaterial nanoparticles (NPs), which were then incorporated into an emulsion. The in vitro photoprotection and photostability were evaluated. The methanolic extract showed high phenolic content (646.4 ± 9.5 mg GAE/g dry extract) and a DPPH radical assay revealed that the antiradical capacity of the extract (0.13 to 0.05 g extract/mmol DPPH) was even better than that of BHT. The particle size of the hybrid biomaterial ranged from 100 to 255 nm; a polydispersity index (PdI) between 0.416 and 0.788 is suitable for topical use in dermocosmetic products. The loading capacity of the extract ranged from 27.0 to 44.5%, and the nanoparticles (NPs) showed electrostatic stability in accordance with the zeta potential value. We found that the formulation based on lignin: extract (1:1 ratio) and gelatin: lignin: extract (0.5:0.5:1 ratio) demonstrated photoprotection qualities with a sun protection factor (SPF) ranging from 9.4 to 22.6. In addition, all the hybrid NP-formulations were time-stable with %SPFeff and %UVAPFeff greater than 80% after exposure to 2 h of radiation. These results suggest that the hybrid biopolymer-natural extract improved the photoprotection and photostability properties, as well as the antiradical capacity, of the B. antioquensis extract, and may be useful for trapping high polyphenol content from natural extracts, with potential application in cosmeceutical formulations.

Human Epidermal Zinc Concentrations after Topical Application of ZnO Nanoparticles in Sunscreens

Zinc oxide nanoparticle (ZnO NP)-based sunscreens are generally considered safe because the ZnO NPs do not penetrate through the outermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum (SC). However, cytotoxicity of zinc ions in the viable epidermis (VE) after dissolution from ZnO NP and penetration into the VE is ill-defined. We therefore quantified the relative concentrations of endogenous and exogenous Zn using a rare stable zinc-67 isotope (67Zn) ZnO NP sunscreen applied to excised human skin and the cytotoxicity of human keratinocytes (HaCaT) using multiphoton microscopy, zinc-selective fluorescent sensing, and a laser-ablation inductively coupled plasma-mass spectrometry (LA-ICP-MS) methodology. Multiphoton microscopy with second harmonic generation imaging showed that 67ZnO NPs were retained on the surface or within the superficial layers of the SC. Zn fluorescence sensing revealed higher levels of labile and intracellular zinc in both the SC and VE relative to untreated skin, confirming that dissolved zinc species permeated across the SC into the VE as ionic Zn and significantly not as ZnO NPs. Importantly, the LA-ICP-MS estimated exogenous 67Zn concentrations in the VE of 1.0 ± 0.3 μg/mL are much lower than that estimated for endogenous VE zinc of 4.3 ± 0.7 μg/mL. Furthermore, their combined total zinc concentrations in the VE are much lower than the exogenous zinc concentration of 21 to 31 μg/mL causing VE cytotoxicity, as defined by the half-maximal inhibitory concentration of exogenous 67Zn found in human keratinocytes (HaCaT). This speaks strongly for the safety of ZnO NP sunscreens applied to intact human skin and the associated recent US FDA guidance.

Functional composite hydrogels entrapping polydopamine hollow nanoparticles for highly efficient resistance of skin penetration and photoprotection

Living organisms tend to evolve various naturally photoprotective mechanisms to avoid photodamage. Among them, polydopamine (PDA) is an effective sunscreen, a mimic of melanin, which is the main functional component of the photoprotective system of human skin. However, the concerns of its dark color, skin penetration and photoprotective efficiency remain yet to be solved. Herein, we have constructed melanin-inspired nanocomposite hydrogels (CS-PDA_h-GP-HA) for photoprotection, in which PDA was prepared as hollow nanoparticles (PDA_h NPs) and entrapped in a physically cross-linked hydrogel (CS-GP-HA) formed by chitosan (CS) and hyaluronic acid (HA) using β-glycerophosphate (β-GP) as a modulator. The CS-PDA_h-GP-HA hydrogels exhibit a shear-thinning flow behavior with an elastic modulus of 300 Pa with the gel-sol transition temperature maintained at about 37 °C simply by adjusting the β-GP content in the hydrogels. The CS-PDA_h-GP-HA hydrogels also possess excellent resistance toward skin penetration. The photoprotective performances of CS-PDA_h-GP-HA hydrogels were evaluated by the determination of sun protection factor (SPF) and in vitro UVA protection efficacy (UVAPE) along with UV-Vis spectroscopy. Compared with the TiO₂ nanoparticles in CS-GP-HA hydrogel, the CS-PDA_h-GP-HA hydrogels show stronger shielding ability in both UVA and UVB regions. When protected by the CS-PDA_h-GP-HA hydrogels, the cell viability of NIH-3T3 fibroblasts increases to 96% while it was only 14% in the case of non-protecting group. These results suggest that the CS-PDA_h-GP-HA hydrogels could efficiently shield the UV irradiation and protect the skin from photodamage. This work introduces PDA-based nanocomposite hydrogels with safe, biocompatible and photoprotective properties, and provides a melanin-mimicking photoprotection system for the application in sunscreens.

Fungal melanin as a biocompatible broad-spectrum sunscreen with high antioxidant activity

Melanin is considered a bio-inspired dermo-cosmetic component due to its high UV absorption and antioxidant activity. Among various melanin sources, fungal melanin is a promising candidate for sunscreen because of its sustainability and scalability; however, quantitative assessment of its function has not yet been sufficiently explored. In this study, melanin samples derived from Amorphotheca resinae were prepared, followed by the evaluation of their sunscreen performance, antioxidant activity, and cytotoxicity. Melanin-blended cream was prepared by blending a melanin suspension and a pure cream. The cream showed an in vitro sun protection factor value of 2.5 when the pigment content was 5%. The cream showed a critical wavelength of approximately 388 nm and a UVA/UVB ratio of more than 0.81, satisfying the broad-spectrum sunscreen requirement. Oxygen radical absorbance capacity assays indicated that fungal melanin had antioxidant activity similar to ascorbic acid but higher than reduced glutathione. Fungal melanin had no statistically significant cytotoxicity to human keratinocyte cell lines until 72 h of exposure, even at a concentration of 4 mg mL-1. Consequently, melanin pigment can be used as a biocompatible broad-spectrum sunscreen with high antioxidant activity and as a practical alternative in dermo-cosmetic formulations.

Sunscreen Enhancement of Octyl Methoxycinnamate Microcapsules by Using Two Biopolymers as Wall Materials

Octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC) is widely used as a chemical sunscreen in sunscreen cosmetics. However, its direct contact with the skin would bring certain risks, such as skin photosensitive reaction. How to improve the effect of skin photodamage protection has become a current research hotspot. Encapsulating ultraviolet (UV) filters into microcapsules is an interesting method to increase the photostability of filters. In this study, sodium caseinate (SC) and arabic gum (GA) are chosen as wall materials to prepare synergistic sunscreen microcapsules by complex coacervation technology. A series of experiments are conducted to investigate the effects of pH, wall material concentration, and wall/core ratio on the formation of OMC microcapsules. The morphology, composition, and stability of OMC microcapsules are characterized by scanning electron microscopy (SEM), Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR), and thermogravimetric analysis (TGA). The OMC microcapsule is uniform in size distribution, smooth in surface morphology, and has good thermal stability. The results show that the ultraviolet absorption of the OMC microcapsules is better than that of the uncoated OMC for the ultraviolet-B (280–320 nm). Moreover, the OMC microcapsule released 40% in 12 h, while OMC released 65%, but the sun protection factor (SPF) of the OMC microcapsule sunscreen is 18.75% higher than that of OMC. This phenomenon may be attributed to the hydrophobic interaction between SC and OMC and the electrostatic interaction between SC and GA.

Motion Capture Quantification of User Variation in Topical Microparticle Application

Motion capture has the potential to shed light on topical drug delivery application. This approach holds promise both as a training tool, and for the development of skin technology, but first, this approach requires validation. Elongated microparticles (EMP) are a physical delivery enhancement technology that relies on a user working in the microparticles using a textured applicator. We used this approach to test the hypothesis that motion capture data can be used to characterize the topical application process. Motion capture was used to record participants while applying a mixture of EMP and sodium fluorescein to ex-vivo porcine skin samples. Treated skin was assessed using reflectance confocal and fluorescence microscopy. Image analysis was used to quantify the microparticle density and the presence of a fluorescent drug surrogate, sodium fluorescein. A strong correlation was present between applicator motion and microparticle and drug delivery profiles. There were quantitative and qualitative differences in the intra- and inter- user application methods that went beyond the level of training. Frequency and velocity of the applicator motion were key factors that correlated with EMP density. Our quantitative analysis of an experimental dermatological device supports the hypothesis that self-application may benefit from some form of digital monitoring or training with feedback. Our conclusion is that the integration of motion capture into experimental dermatological research offers an improved and quantifiable perspective that could be broadly useful with respect to topical applications, and with respect to the instruction provided to patients and clinicians.

A minimally invasive clinical model to test sunscreen toxicity based on oxidative stress levels using microbiopsy and confocal microscopy - a proof of concept study

OBJECTIVE

This proof-of-concept study demonstrated that using minimally invasive skin microsampling could enable significantly higher throughput of cosmetic testing in volunteers than conventional biopsy. Nanoparticle sunscreen was used as a model to test toxicity based on oxidative stress using microbiopsy and confocal imaging.

METHODS

Six volunteers were recruited for this study (3 males and 3 females). Zinc oxide nanoparticle containing topical formulation was prepared at 10% w/v. Each volunteer had 3 areas of 4 cm² each mapped on each inner forearm for a total of 6 treatment areas (intact/ tape-stripped and with/without treatment). The topical zinc-nanoparticle formulation was applied directly to volunteer skin (2mg/cm² ) for 2 hrs. Microbiopsied tissue from each treatment group was stained for reactive oxygen and nitrogen species in addition to mitochondrial superoxide. The stained samples were then imaged using confocal microscopy prior to image analysis.

RESULTS

Skin exposed to zinc oxide nanoparticles did not show any significant increases in oxidative stress. Zinc oxide nanoparticle tape-stripped skin resulted in signal significantly lower (P < 0.001) oxidative stress levels than t-butylated hydroxytoluene treated tape-stripped skin for oxidative stress markers. Topically applied zinc oxide nanoparticles had no detectable effect on the oxidative status in volunteer skin. No adverse reactions or effects were observed after all treatments including microbiopsy.

CONCLUSION

The data support the hypothesis that microbiopsy is a viable approach to study cosmeceutical- skin interactions in volunteers with capacity for molecular assays and high throughput with very low risk to the volunteer.

Exploring the photo protective potential of solid lipid nanoparticle-based sunscreen cream containing Aloe vera

Nowadays, the sunscreen creams are composed of mostly synthetic chemicals and other organic compounds which were found to enter into the blood stream on topical application raising concerns in the scientific community. The scientific community has now shifted their attention to herbal formulations due to toxicity of these synthetic molecules. Aloe vera is a xerophitic plant having excellent anti-oxidant properties. The permeation effect and drug stability of the drug candidate can be significantly enhanced by formulating it into solid lipid nanoparticles (SLN). The main objectives of the study were to formulate and evaluate Aloe vera-loaded SLN sunscreen cream and to determine its photoprotective potential. The Aloe vera-loaded SLNs were formulated by microemulsification technique. The developed SLNs were studied for its entrapment efficiency, poly dispersity index (PDI), zeta potential, particle size, and other characterization techniques. Finally, the optimized SLNs were incorporated into the sunscreen cream and evaluated for its spreadability, viscosity, extrudability, drug content, in vitro drug release, ex vivo permeation, determination of sun protection factor (SPF), skin irritation test, and accelerated stability studies. The in vitro SPF was found out to be 16.9 ± 2.44 and the in vivo SPF observed to be approximately 14.81 ± 3.81, respectively. Stability studies were performed under accelerated conditions and no appreciable changes in the parameters were noticed. The solid lipid nanoparticles of Aloe vera were incorporated into a cream and the SPF of the resultant sunscreen cream was found to be on par with the sunscreens that were currently available in the market.