Skin surface physico-chemistry: Characteristics, methods of measurement, influencing factors and future developments

Predicting tactile sensory attributes of personal care emulsions based on instrumental characterizations: A review

Emulsions in the form of creams, lotions, gels or foams are the most widely used personal care formulations to improve the condition and feel of the skin. Achieving an optimal balance between their performance, effectiveness and sensory profile is essential, with the sensory profile being a key factor in consumer satisfaction and the success of these products in the market. Well-established methods using highly trained and semi-trained panels (e.g. Spectrum descriptive analysis, Flash Profile method, Quantitative Descriptive Analysis method and 'Check-all-that-apply') are available and commonly used for the sensory assessment of personal care products. Nevertheless, a common drawback among all these methods is their inherent cost, both in terms of financial resources and time requirements. In recent years, research studies have emerged to address this limitation by investigating potential correlations between tactile sensory attributes and instrumental data associated with the physical characteristics of topical formulations. In other words, significant efforts have been invested in the development of robust instrumental methods specifically designed to accurately predict the sensory description that a panel of assessors could establish. These methods are not only faster, cheaper and more objective compared to traditional sensory testing, but they can also be applied to formulations that have not undergone extensive safety and toxicological testing. This review summarizes the most relevant findings, trends and current challenges in predicting tactile sensory attributes of personal care emulsions based on instrumental parameters.

Simultaneous imaging of multi-pore sweat dynamics and evaporation rate measurement using wind tunnel ventilated capsule with infrared window

Sweat evaporation is critical to human thermoregulation, but current understanding of the process on 20 μm to 2 cm scale is limited. To this end, we introduce a wind-tunnel-shaped ventilated capsule with an infrared window for simultaneous infrared sweat imaging and evaporation rate measurement. Implementing the capsule in pilot human subject tests suggests that the common assumption of sweat being an isothermal film is only valid when the evaporation rate is low and sweat forms puddles on the skin. Before transitioning to this filmwise mode, sweating occurs in cyclic dropwise mode, displaying a 3x higher mass transfer coefficient in the same conditions. Imaging highlighted distinct phenomena occurring during and between these modes including out-of-duct evaporation, pulsating droplets, temporary and eventually lasting crevice filling, and individual drop-to-film spreading. In all, sweat evaporation is an impactful area that our results show is ripe for exploration, which can be achieved quantitatively using the introduced platform.

Topical pickering emulsion versus classical excipients: A study of the residual film on the human skin

The interest in Pickering emulsions is based on the possibility of replacing classical emulsifiers with solid particles. These emulsions are very attractive in the pharmaceutical field for their stability virtues and as a vehicle to deliver active ingredients. The study aimed to analyze the properties of the residual film of the Pickering emulsions on the human skin compared to conventional systems. For this project, three types of solid particles were used: titanium dioxide, zinc oxide and silicon dioxide. All of them are capable of stabilizing the oil/water interface and thus forming totally emulsified systems. To create an emulsion of reference, a classical surfactant was used as an excipient. Complementary systems containing both particles and the emulsifier were also analyzed. Then, a combined approach between physicochemical and biometrological in vivo analysis was employed. The study proved that Pickering emulsions stabilized by the metal oxides were distinct from the reference emulsion in terms of droplet sizes and organization, rheological and textural responses. Consequently, it impacted the properties of the residual film once the product was applied to the skin. The particle-stabilized emulsions formed a hydrophobic film counter to conventional excipients. Also, the Friction parameter (or the roughness of the film) was directly linked to the quantity of the particles used in the formulation and their perception on the skin surface. The use of the particles blurs the glossy effect of the oil phase. Finally, it was observed that the appearance of the residual film was impacted by the type of the particle, namely TiO2 and ZnO particles.

Development and Efficacy Evaluation of Innovative Cosmetic Formulations with Caryocar brasiliense Fruit Pulp Oil Encapsulated in Freeze-Dried Liposomes

Encapsulation and drying technologies allow the engineering of innovative raw materials from plant biodiversity, with potential applications in pharmaceutical and cosmetic fields. Lipid-based nanoencapsulation stands out for its efficiency, ease of production, and versatility in encapsulating substances, whether hydrophilic or lipophilic. This work aimed at encapsulating pequi oil in liposomes and freeze-dried liposomes to enhance its stability and functional benefits, such as skin hydration and anti-aging effects, for use in innovative cosmetic formulations. Pequi oil-extracted from the Caryocar brasiliense fruit pulp, a plant species from Brazilian plant biodiversity-is rich in secondary metabolites and fatty acids. Liposomes and dried liposomes offer controlled production processes and seamless integration into cosmetic formulations. The physicochemical analysis of the developed liposomes confirmed that the formulations are homogeneous and electrokinetically stable, as evidenced by consistent particle size distribution and zeta potential values, respectively. The gel-type formulations loaded with the dried liposomes exhibit enhanced skin hydration, improved barrier function, and refined microrelief, indicating improvements in skin conditions. These results highlight the potential of dried liposomes containing pequi oil for the development of innovative cosmeceutical products. This research contributes to the valorization of Brazilian biodiversity by presenting an innovative approach to leveraging the dermatological benefits of pequi oil in cosmetic applications.

Preparation of Gel Forming Polymer-Based Sprays for First Aid Care of Skin Injuries

Currently, there are several types of materials for the treatment of wounds, burns, and other topical injuries available on the market. The most used are gauzes and compresses due to their fluid absorption capacity; however, these materials adhere to the surface of the lesions, which can lead to further bleeding and tissue damage upon removal. In the present study, the development of a polymer-based gel that can be applied as a spray provides a new vision in injury protection, respecting the requirements of safety, ease, and quickness of both applicability and removal. The following polymeric sprays were developed to further obtain gels based on different polymers: hydroxypropyl cellulose (HPC), polyvinyl pyrrolidone (PVP) and hydroxypropyl methylcellulose (HPMC) using polyethylene glycol (PEG) as a plasticizer. The developed sprays revealed suitable properties for use in topical injuries. A protective film was obtained when sprayed on a surface through a casting mechanism. The obtained films adhered to the surface of biological tissue (pig muscle), turning into a gel when the exudate was absorbed, and proved to be washable with saline solution and contribute to the clotting process. Moreover, biocompatibility results showed that all materials were biocompatible, as cell viability was over 90% for all the materials.

Bio-based alternatives to volatile silicones: Relationships between chemical structure, physicochemical properties and functional performances

Emollient oils are ubiquitous ingredients of personal care products, especially skin care and hair care formulations. They offer excellent spreading properties and give end-use products a soft, pleasant and non-sticky after-feel. Emollients belong to various petro- or bio-based chemical families among which silicone oils, hydrocarbons and esters are the most prominent. Silicones have exceptional physicochemical and sensory properties but their high chemical stability results in very low biodegradability and a high bioaccumulation potential. Nowadays, consumers are increasingly responsive to environmental issues and demand more environmentally friendly products. This awareness strongly encourages cosmetics industries to develop bio-based alternatives to silicone oils. Finding effective silicon-free emollients requires understanding the molecular origin of emollience. This review details the relationships between the molecular structures of emollients and their physicochemical properties as well as the resulting functional performances in order to facilitate the design of alternative oils with suitable physicochemical and sensory properties. The molecular profile of an ideal emollient in terms of chemical function (alkane, ether, ester, carbonate, alcohol), optimal number of carbons and branching is established to obtain an odourless oil with good spreading on the skin. Since none of the carbon-based emollients alone can imitate the non-sticky and dry feel of silicone oils, it is judicious to blend alkanes and esters to significantly improve both the sensory properties and the solubilizing properties of the synergistic mixture towards polar ingredients (sun filters, antioxidants, fragrances). Finally, it is shown how modelling tools (QSPR, COSMO-RS and neural networks) can predict in silico the key properties of hundreds of virtual candidate molecules in order to synthesize only the most promising whose predicted properties are close to the specifications.

Pullulan film incorporated with nanocapsules improves pomegranate seed oil anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects in the treatment of atopic dermatitis in mice

This study aimed to prepare pullulan films containing pomegranate seeds oil (PSO) based nanocapsules, and evaluate the formulation efficacy in the treatment of atopic dermatitis (AD)-like lesions induced by 2,4-dinitrochlorobenzene (DNCB). The Eudragit RS 100® nanocapsules (PSONC) were prepared by the interfacial precipitation of preformed polymer, whereas the films were produced by the solvent casting method. Pomegranate seed oil nanoemulsions (PSONE) were prepared by the spontaneous emulsification method for comparative reasons. Both nanosystems presented adequate mean diameter (248 ± 16 nm for PSONE and 181 ± 6 nm for PSONC), polydispersity index (below 0.2), zeta potential (-25.63 ± 1.1 mV for PSONE and + 43.13 ± 0.7 mV for PSONC) and pH in the acid range (6.77 ± 0.27 and 5.31 ± 0.17, PSONE and PSONC). By a pre-formulation study, sorbitol (6.5%) and PEG 400 (1.5%) were considered the most suitable plasticizers for developing pullulan films (6%) intending topical application. In general, pullulan films were classified as flexible and hydrophilic, with high occlusive properties, 57.6 ± 0.8%, 64.6 ± 0.8% for vehicle, PSONCF (pullulan film containing PSONC), respectively. All formulations (films and nanocarriers) presented no irritant potential in the chorioallantoic membrane test. In the in vivo model, the treatments with free PSO and PSONCF attenuated the skin injury as well as the mechanical hypernociceptive behavioral induced by DNCB exposure to mice. Importantly, the biochemical analyses provided evidence that only the treatment with PSONCF modulated the inflammatory and the oxidative stress parameters evaluated in this study. In conclusion, these data lead us to believe that PSONC incorporation into a pullulan film matrix improved the biological properties of the PSO in this AD-model.

Examining properties influencing infectious microbe associations with surfaces of four different thermoplastic radiation therapy masks

BACKGROUND

Previous testing revealed that four different microbes applied to face-only masks from Civco, Klarity Medical, Orfit, and Qfix demonstrated variation in the number recovered from each mask type after a 1-hour contact time. In all cases, the Orfit mask demonstrated the largest number of recovered microbes suggesting a preference by tested microbes to create associations with this mask type.

METHODS

The current study evaluated three physiochemical features of these thermoplastic masks to determine why the Orfit mask encouraged greater microbial associations. Measurements including water contact angle (WCA), surface topography, and available contact area were determined for each mask type, where feasible.

RESULTS

The Orfit mask exhibited the greatest difference in each of the 3 evaluated characteristics. Overall, it showed decreased hydrophobicity, increased surface roughness, and increased surface contact area. The WCA of both Orfit (50.8°) and Klarity (95.6°) masks showed decreased hydrophobicity when compared to native PCL (129.97°).

CONCLUSION

The Orfit mask's decreased hydrophobicity, increased roughness, and larger surface contact area appears to have contributed to its ability to support a larger number of microbe associations. The decreased hydrophobicity and altered topography of both Klarity and Orfit masks may have been due to their additional antimicrobial coatings.

Improving and evaluating the adhesion and stability of make-up by enhancing the affinity between skin/make-up layer

PURPOSE

upMake-up clumps, bumps and collapses are the three factors that determine how well make-up has been performed. The purpose of this study is to reduce the three factors mentioned above by using amphiphilic substances to increase the affinity between the skin and the make-up layer. In addition, it aims to evaluate the improvement of the make-up layer by developing an objective make-up layer evaluation method.

METHODS

Experiments were performed in an attempt to increase the affinity between the skin and the make-up layer by minimizing the difference in surface energy between the two. Multiple types of artificial skin (leather and bio-skin) were used and treated to form the liquid foundation layer. Qualitative evaluation of the make-up layer was conducted by analyzing the surface, cross-section, and fracture area of the make-up layer, using the evaluation method proposed in this study.

RESULTS

After applying this method and taking measurements by 3D surface analysis, the surface roughness of the make-up layer reduced by 46%, and the maximum thickness of the make-up layer reduced by about 50% in comparison with the control group (method not applied). In the case of the make-up layer to which this method was applied, two-dimensional cross-sectional Scanning Electron Microscope (SEM) image analysis confirmed that agglomeration was reduced, and the thickness of the make-up layer was also reduced by an average of 54%. According to this result, the technique of increasing the affinity between the skin and the make-up layer reduces the level of aggregation of make-up and encourages the formation of a uniform and thin make-up layer. Also, the fracture area after motion simulation was reduced by 33%. These results indicate that the method of increasing the affinity between skin/make-up membranes positively affects the formation of a uniform make-up layer.

CONCLUSION

Increasing the affinity by reducing the surface energy between the skin and the make-up layer plays an important role in forming a thin and uniform make-up layer by improving the problems of lifting, agglomeration, and collapse of the make-up. In addition, it has been confirmed that through this method, the quality of consumer experience related to make-up satisfaction can be improved. The results show that objective analyses of make-up help the understanding of the quality of consumer experience on make-up.

Surface science of cosmetic substrates, cleansing actives and formulations

The development of shampoo and cleansing formulations in cosmetics is at a crossroads due to consumer demands for better performing, more natural products and also the strong commitment of cosmetic companies to improve the sustainability of cosmetic products. In order to go beyond traditional formulations, it is of great importance to clearly establish the science behind cleansing technologies and appreciate the specificity of cleansing biological surfaces such as hair and skin. In this review, we present recent advances in our knowledge of the physicochemical properties of the hair surface from both an experimental and a theoretical point of view. We discuss the opportunities and challenges that newer, sustainable formulations bring compared to petroleum-based ingredients. The inevitable evolution towards more bio-based, eco-friendly ingredients and sustainable formulations requires a complete rethink of many well-known physicochemical principles. The pivotal role of digital sciences and modelling in the understanding and conception of new ingredients and formulations is discussed. We describe recent numerical approaches that take into account the specificities of the hair surface in terms of structuration, different methods that study the adsorption of formulation ingredients and finally the success of new data-driven approaches. We conclude with practical examples on current formulation efforts incorporating bio-surfactants, controlling foaming and searching for new rheological properties.

Monitoring Transepidermal Water Loss and Skin Wettedness Factor with Battery-Free NFC Sensor

The transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and the skin wettedness factor (SWF) are considered parts of a key perspective related to skincare. The former is used to determine the loss of water content from the stratum corneum (SC), while the latter is used to determine the human skin comfort level. Herein, we developed two novel approaches: (1) determination of the TEWL and the SWF based on a battery-free humidity sensor, and (2) the design of a battery-free smart skincare sensor device tag that can harvest energy from a near field communication (NFC)-enabled smartphone, making it a battery-free design approach. The designed skincare device tag has a diameter of 2.6 cm and could harvest energy (~3 V) from the NFC-enabled smartphone. A series of experimental tests involving the participation of eight and six subjects were conducted in vivo for the indoor and outdoor environments, respectively. During the experimental analysis, the skin moisture content level was measured at different times of the day using an android smartphone. The TEWL and SWF values were calculated based on these sensor readings. For the TEWL case: if the skin moisture is high, the TEWL is high, and if the skin moisture is low, the TEWL is low, ensuring that the skin moisture and the TEWL follow the same trend. Our smart skincare device is enclosed in a 3D flexible design print, and it is battery-free with an android application interface that is more convenient to carry outside than other commercially available battery-based devices.

Impact of cigarette smoke on physical-chemical and molecular proprieties of human skin in an ex vivo model

BACKGROUND

This is a study about the skin ageing exposome, focusing on the effect of cigarette smoke. Human living skin explants (HSE) were exposed to cigarette smoke (CS) of two cigarettes for 2 hours using a custom-made exposure chamber, the Pollubox^® . Effects on the surface physico-chemistry and molecular properties of the skin were analyzed and reported for the first time.

BASIC PROCEDURES

To this end, transcriptomic study followed by immunohistochemistry, MDA (Malondialdehyde Dosage), and surface physio-chemistry data: surface free energy determination, TEWL (Trans Epidermal Water Loss), skin pH and FT-IR (Fourier Transform-Infrared) spectroscopy of the explant were collected from untreated and treated HSE.

MAIN FINDINGS

Results showed a decrease of the total surface free energy of the treated HSE. This decrease reflected higher interactions with polar compounds from the environment and consequently a decrease of the surface hydrophobicity. Additionally, an increase of TEWL and skin pH was observed after treatment. The transcriptomic analysis showed downregulation of mitochondrial genes (PON2-NDUFA4L2-ATP1A1-ALDH2-PRODH) combined with an increase of MDA in CS-treated HSE.

CONCLUSIONS

CS-induced oxidation of lipids at HSE surface alters the skin barrier: interactions with polar products are enhanced and the lipid chain packing at the surface is modified. Consequently, skin permeability could increase which correlated with repression of CA9 and AQP1 genes. Beside activation of AHR-NRF2 pathway in CS-exposed HSE, our results suggested that mitochondrial functions were strongly impacted and oxidized lipids failed to be eliminated promoting skin barrier alteration. A mitophagy activity was suggested through the confirmation of PINK1 accumulation in the epidermis by immunostaining.

In vivo characterization of the structures of films of a fatty acid and an alcohol adsorbed on the skin surface

An in vivo analysis of stearyl alcohol and stearic acid films on the skin surface using polarized infrared-external reflection spectroscopy revealed that whether the sample molecules adopt an energetically stable conformation and orientation strongly depends on the molecular functionalities and sample preparation conditions. For stearic acid, even the difference in solute concentration between 0.1 and 0.5 wt% results in a different molecular conformation and orientation. This illustrates that the molecular organization of the adsorbate on the skin surface is sensitively determined by the kinetics of the sample film growth, not by the simple thermodynamic equilibrium with the skin temperature.

Design of a Lipid-Coated Polymeric Material Mimic Human Skin Surface Properties: a Performing Tool to Evaluate Skin Interaction with Topical Products

An original nonbiological skin model (NBSM) has been developed to mimSic skin surface properties. This skin model presents several improvements when compared to existing ones: it has a topography identical to that of in vivo skin and a lipid composition close to that of the skin face. This imparts to the model surface a physicochemistry similar to in vivo skin. The concept and design of the skin model are presented, followed by an instrumental characterization performed using 3D microscopy, attenuated total reflectance-Fourier transformed infrared spectroscopy, and contact angle measurements. Surface free energy components are calculated for the NBSM using the Van Oss approach and compared to ex vivo experiments performed on human living skin explants. A comparison was made with the commercial skin model VITRO-SKIN, this latter being a reference in terms of the NBSM. The effect of several emollients on skin physicochemistry was investigated in vivo and on both nonbiological models. The study focused on several emollients and oils, including silicones and esters, and three emulsions (oil-in-water or water-in-oil). The results obtained confirm the high reliability of the developed model as it shows a skin-like surface behavior. This very interesting tool shows promising results concerning the study of the residual film present after product application or to study skin/product interactions.