Role of macromolecules in the safety of use of body wash cosmetics

Mitigating abortion risk of synthetic musk-contained body wash in pregnant women: Risk assessment and mechanism analysis

Synthetic musks (SMs), the widely used odor component in personal care products have attracted attention due to their environmental impacts, especially the abortion risks. Given that women comprise a significant consumer demographic for personal care products, it is imperative to promptly initiate research on avoidance strategies for pregnant women concerning their exposure to synthetic chemicals (SMs). This study tried to establish novel theoretical approaches to eliminate the abortion risks of SM-contained body wash by designing the SM-contained proportioning scheme and analyzing the abortion risk mechanisms. The binding energy of SMs to estrogen-progesterone protein complex was used as an indicator of the abortion risk. A total of 324 SM-contained body wash proportioning schemes were designed using full factorial design and No. 218 was found as the most effective formula for body wash proportioning with the binding energy value of 68.6 kJ/mol. Results showed the abortion risk could be effectively alleviated (reduced 0.6%-163.4%) by regulating the proportioning scheme of SM-contained body wash. In addition, the mechanism analysis of SM-contained proportioning scheme proportioning scheme found that xanthan gum and disodium EDTA played essential roles in reducing the abortion risk in pregnant women after exposure. The selection of proper body wash components for reducing the abortion risk of SMs on pregnant women was first proposed. It sheds lights on the potential risks of people's daily life and proposes risk-eliminating strategies.

Effect of New Surfactants on Biological Properties of Liquid Soaps

Liquid soaps are the basic cosmetics used to clean the skin of the hands. Frequent hand washing prevents viral contamination but may damage the skin’s hydro-lipid layer, leading to various types of irritation. Therefore, four liquid soap formulas were developed with three amphoteric surfactants: Cocamidopropyl Betaine (LS II), CocamidopropylHydroxysultaine (LS III), and newly synthesized Evening PrimroseaamidopropylSulfobetaine (LS IV). We evaluated the skin irritating potential (zein number, bovine albumin test) and cytotoxicity (AlamarBlue™, Cell viability, and Cell cycle assays) on HaCaT cell line. We observed lower values of the zein number and bovine albumin tests after adding soaps with surfactants (the highest differences in LS IV) compared to the base soap (LS I). However, LS I and LS II did not differ in cytotoxic assays. Therefore, adding LS III and LS IV seems potentially more dangerous to the cells. However, it should be noted that cells were continuously exposed to liquid soaps for more than 24 h, so its cytotoxic effects after dermal use in humans may be unnoticeable. Concluding, results suggest that the newly synthesized LS IV should improve the safety of liquid hand washing soaps.

Assessment of Cosmetic Properties and Safety of Use of Model Washing Gels with Reishi, Maitake and Lion's Mane Extracts

Natural cosmetics are becoming more and more popular every day. For this reason, this work investigates the properties of mushroom extracts, which are not as widely used in the cosmetics industry as plant ingredients. Water extracts of Grifolafrondosa (Maitake), Hericiumerinaceus (Lion's Mane) and Ganoderma lucidum (Reishi) were tested for their antioxidant properties, bioactive substances content, skin cell toxicity, ability to limit TEWL, effect on skin hydration and pH, and skin irritation. Our research showed that Maitake extract contained the highest amount of flavonoids and phenols, and also showed the most effective scavenging of DPPH and ABTS radicals as well as Chelation of Fe2+ and FRAP radicals, which were 39.84% and 82.12% in a concentration of 1000 µg/mL, respectively. All tested extracts did not increase the amount of ROS in fibroblasts and keratinocytes. The addition of mushroom extracts to washing gels reduced the irritating effect on skin, and reduced the intracellular production of free radicals, compared with the cosmetic base. Moreover, it was shown that the analyzedcosmetics had a positive effect on the pH and hydration of the skin, and reduced TEWL.

Sophorolipid Suppresses LPS-Induced Inflammation in RAW264.7 Cells through the NF-κB Signaling Pathway

Objectives: Biosurfactants with anti-inflammatory activity may alleviate skin irritation caused by synthetic surfactants in cleaning products. Sophorolipid (SL) is a promising alternative to synthetic surfactants. However, there are few reports on the anti-inflammatory activity of SL and the underlying mechanism. The purpose of this work is to verify that lipopolysaccharide (LPS)-induced inflammation could be inhibited through targeting the pathway of nuclear factor-κB (NF-κB) in RAW264.7 cells. Methods: The influence of SL on cytokine release was investigated by LPS-induced RAW264.7 cells using ELISA. The quantification of the protein expression of corresponding molecular markers was realized by Western blot analysis. Flow cytometry was employed to determine the levels of Ca²⁺ and reactive oxygen species (ROS). The relative expression of inducible nitric oxide synthase (INOS) and cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2) was determined by RT-PCR. An immunofluorescence assay and confocal microscope were used to observe the NF-κB/p65 translocation from the cytoplasm into the nucleus. The likely targets of SL were predicted by molecular docking analysis. Results: SL showed anti-inflammatory activity and reduced the release of inflammatory cytokines including interleukin-6 (IL-6), tumor necrosis factor-α (TNF-α), and nitric oxide (NO). The experimental results show that SL suppressed the Ca²⁺ and ROS levels influx in the LPS-induced RAW264.7 cells and alleviated the LPS-induced expression of iNOS and COX-2, the LPS-induced translocation of NF-κB (p65) from the cytoplasm into the nucleus, and the expression of phosphorylated proteins such as p65 and IκBα. Furthermore, molecular docking analysis showed that SL may inhibit inflammatory signaling by competing with LPS to bind TLR4/MD-2 through hydrophobic interactions and by inhibiting IKKβ activation through the hydrogen bonding and hydrophobic interactions. Conclusion: This study demonstrated that SL exerted anti-inflammatory activity via the pathway of NF-κB in RAW264.7 cells.

Understanding the chemical and mineralogical composition of commercial henna and jagua tattoos and dyes-a multi-analytical approach

Temporary tattoos and dyes constitute a great analytical challenge in relation to the regulatory control of their ingredients. Most of these commercial products are not labeled according to their content and their chemical nature is highly diverse. Therefore, it is necessary to analyze these complex samples to evaluate the potential presence of metallic impurities, to ensure the safety of cosmetic products contributing to health protection. This study proposes a multi-analytical methodology, which includes handheld X-ray fluorescence (h-XRF) and X-ray diffraction (XRD), complemented by variable pressure scanning electron microscopy coupled with energy-dispersive X-ray spectrometry (VP-SEM-EDS) to fully characterize 34 commercial samples of jagua and henna tattoos and dyes. The approach allowed the identification of the main constituents providing complementary compositional data and differences between sample types were established. In addition, information on the degree of natural pigments homogeneity was also obtained. The results' discussion considering the current European cosmetics regulation may be useful to support the drafting of safety requirements and specific regulation.

Dermal exposure to synthetic musks: Human health risk assessment, mechanism, and control strategy

Synthetic musks (SMs) have been widely used as odor additives in personal care products (PCPs). Dermal exposure to SMs is the main pathway of the accumulation of these chemicals in human kerateins and poses potential health risks. In this study, in silico methods were established to reduce the human health risk of SMs from dermal exposure by investigating the risk mechanisms, designing lower bioaccumulation ability SMs and suggesting proper PCP ingredients using molecular docking, molecular dynamics simulation, and quantitative structure-activity relationship (QSAR) models. The binding energy, a parameter reflecting the binding ability of SMs and human keratin protein (4ZRY), was used as the indicator to assess the human health risk of SMs. According to the mechanism analysis, total energy was found as the most influential molecular structural feature influencing the bioaccumulation ability of a SM, and as one of the main factors influencing the function (i.e., odor sensitivity) of an SM. The 3D-QSAR models were constructed to control the human health risk of SMs by designing lower-risk SMs derivatives. The phantolide (PHAN)- 58 was determined to be the optimum SM derivative with lower bioaccumulation ability (reduced 17.25%) and improved odor sensitivity (increased 7.91%). A further reduction of bioaccumulation ability of PHAN-58 was found when adding proper body wash ingredients (i.e., alkyl ethoxylate sulfate (AES), dimethyloldimethyl (DMDM), EDTA-Na4, ethylene glycol distearate (EGDS), hydroxyethyl cellulose (HEC), lemon yellow and octyl glucose), leading to a significant reduction of the bioaccumulation ability (42.27%) compared with that of PHAN. Results demonstrated that the proposed theoretical mechanism and control strategies could effectively reduce the human health risk of SMs from dermal exposure.

Application of Levan-Rich Digestate Extract in the Production of Safe-to-Use and Functional Natural Body Wash Cosmetics

The study focused on the evaluation of the possibility of using a levan-rich digestate extract in the production of safe and functional body wash cosmetics. Model shower gels were designed and formulated on the basis of raw materials of natural origin. Prepared prototypes contained various extract concentrations (16.7; 33; 50%). A gel without extract was used as a reference. The samples were evaluated for their safety in use and functionality. The results showed that the use of high-concentration levan-rich digestate extract in a shower gel resulted in a significant reduction in the negative impact on the skin. For example, the zein value decreased by over 50% in relation to the preparation without the extract. An over 40% reduction in the emulsifying capacity of hydrophobic substances was also demonstrated, which reduces skin dryness after the washing process. However, the presence of the extract did not significantly affect the parameters related to functionality. Overall, it was indicated that levan-rich digestate extract can be successfully used as a valuable ingredient in natural cleansing cosmetics.

Sustainable Green Processing of Grape Pomace Using Micellar Extraction for the Production of Value-Added Hygiene Cosmetics

This study sought to evaluate the possibility of using grape pomace, a waste material from wine production, for the preparation of cosmetic components. Following the existing clear research trend related to improving the safety of cleansing cosmetics, an attempt was made to determine the possibility of preparing model shower gels based on grape pomace extract. A new method for producing cosmetic components named loan chemical extraction (LCE) was developed and is described for the first time in this paper. In the LCE method, an extraction medium consisting only of the components from the final product was used. Thus, there were no additional substances in the cosmetics developed, and the formulation was significantly enriched with compounds isolated from grape pomace. Samples of the model shower gels produced were evaluated in terms of their basic parameters related to functionality (e.g., foaming properties, rheological characteristics, color) and their effect on the skin. The results obtained showed that the extracts based on waste grape pomace contained a number of valuable cosmetic compounds (e.g., organic acids, phenolic compounds, amino acids and sugars), and the model products basis on them provided colorful and safe natural cosmetics.

Nanoemulsions containing Garcinia mangostana L. pericarp extract for topical applications: Development, characterization, and in vitro percutaneous penetration assay

A highly stable oil-in-water nanoemulsion for topical applications, containing mangostins extracted from the pericarp of mangosteen (Garcinia mangostana L.), is a promising strategy to protect mangostins as well as to improve penetration of these important antioxidants through the skins. Nanoemulsions consisted of virgin coconut oil as the oil phase, Tween-80 and Span-80 as surfactants, and xanthan gum as the thickening agent, were prepared using the high-energy and low-energy emulsification methods. The nanoemulsions that were stable up to 28 days had oil droplet diameter of 220 nm to 353 nm and zeta potential of -46.9 mV to -63.7 mV. The accelerated stability test showed that the most stable nanoemulsions were those prepared using the low-energy emulsification method with an estimated shelf life of eleven months, composed of 11% oil phase, 17% surfactant, and 72% aqueous phase. The in vitro percutaneous penetration test for the nanoemulsion with added xanthan gum provided high cumulative skin penetration of mangostins of up to 114 μg/cm². The results of this study indicate that virgin coconut oil-based nanoemulsions containing mangostins, prepared using the low-energy emulsification method, stabilized by xanthan gum and mixed at 40°C can prospectively be used for topical applications.

Application of Blue Honeysuckle Powder Obtained by an Innovative Method of Low-Temperature Drying in Skincare Face Masks

Traditional technologies applied for obtaining plant raw materials for cosmetic production are based primarily on high-level processing, which is reflected in the qualitative composition of the resulting materials. By using low-temperature drying, it is possible to retain in the raw materials a range of valuable ingredients. In this study, blue honeysuckle powder was used as an ingredient of cosmetic face masks. The stability of the masks was evaluated. Dynamic viscosity, yield point and texture analysis of the cosmetics was performed. The color of the emulsions and the level of skin hydration after face mask application was determined. Emulsions were found to be stable. A decrease in dynamic viscosity of the emulsions as a function of increasing concentrations of the additive and under the conditions of rising rotational speed were observed. Similarly, an increase in the concentration of blue honeysuckle in the emulsions resulted in a decrease in the value of the yield point. Based on the results, it can be stated that the addition of blue honeysuckle caused a decrease in hardness of the masks, while the opposite trend was observed for adhesive force. It was found that an increase in the concentration of blue honeysuckle gave a reddish-yellow color to the samples. Corneometric assessment confirmed proper skin hydration after the application of the emulsions.

Preparation, Characterization, and Biocompatibility Assessment of Polymer-Ceramic Composites Loaded with Salvia officinalis Extract

In the present work, hydroxyapatite-polymer materials were developed. The preparation, as well as characterization of the ceramic-polymer composites based on polyvinylpyrrolidone, sodium alginate, and gelatin were described. The system was enriched with the addition of common sage extract (Salvia officinalis). The antioxidant potential of sage aqueous extract and total polyphenol content was determined. The antioxidant capacity and total phenolic content of extract were equal to 86.06 ± 0.49% and 16.21 ± 0.58 mg gallic acid equivalents per gram of dry weight, respectively. Incubation studies in selected biological liquids were carried out to determine the biomineralization capacity on the surface of the composites and to examine the kinetics of release of the active substances from within the material. As a result of the incubation, a gradual release of the extract over time from the polymer matrix was observed; moreover, the appearance of new apatite layers on the composite surface was recorded as early as after 14 days, which was also confirmed by energy-dispersive X-ray spectroscopy (EDS) microanalysis. The composites were analyzed with Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) spectroscopy, and the morphology was recorded by scanning electron microscope (SEM) imaging. The in vitro biological studies allowed their cytotoxic effect on the reference L929 fibroblasts to be excluded. Further analysis of the biomaterials showed that enrichment with polyphenols does not support the adhesion of L929 cells to the surface of the material. However, the addition of these natural components stimulates human monocytes that constitute the first step of tissue regeneration.

Effect of selected monovalent salts on surfactant stabilized foams

Surfactant-stabilized foams have been at the centre of scientific research for over a century due to their ubiquitous applications in different industries. Many of these applications involve inorganic salts either due to their natural presence (e.g. use of seawater in froth floatation) or their addition (e.g. in cosmetics) to manipulate foam characteristics for the best outcomes. This paper provides a clear understanding of the effect of salts on surfactant-stabilized foams through a critical literature survey of this topic. Available literature shows a double effect of salts (LiCl, NaCl and KCl) on foam characteristics in the presence of surfactants. To elucidate the underlying mechanisms of the stabilizing effect of salts on foams, the effect of salts on surfactant-free thin liquid films is first discussed, followed by a discussion on the effect of salts on surfactant-stabilized foams with the focus on anionic surfactants. We discuss two distinctive salt concentrations, salt transition concentration in surfactant-free solutions and salt critical concentration in surfactant-laden systems to explain their effects. Using the available data in literature supported by dedicated experiments, we demonstrate the destabilizing effect of salts on foams at and above their critical concentrations in the presence of anionic surfactants. This effect is attributed to retarding the adsorption of the surfactant molecules at the interface due to the formation of nano and micro-scale aggregates.

An Advanced Material with Synergistic Viscoelasticity Enhancement of Hydrophobically Associated Water-Soluble Polymer and Surfactant

In order to prepare materials with controllable properties, changeable microstructure, and high viscoelasticity solution with low polymer and surfactant concentration, a composite is constituted by adding surfactant (sodium dodecyl sulfate, SDS) to hydrophobically associated water-soluble polymer (abbreviated as PAAC) solution. The viscoelasticity, aggregate microstructure, and interaction mechanism of the composite are investigated by rheometery, Cryo-transmission electron microscopy (Cryo-TEM), and fluorescence spectrum. The results show that when the mass ratio of polymer to surfactant is 15:1, the viscosity of the composite reaches the maximum. The viscosity of the composite system increases hundredfold. The viscosity plateau under dynamic shear is generated. The composite has the properties of high viscoelasticity, strong shear thinning behavior, and good salt tolerance, and temperature resistance. The maximum viscosity of the composite is shown at the salinity of 20000 mg L^-1 . In addition, there is no phase separation in the composite with the increase of polymer and surfactant concentration, which indicates the good stability of the system. It is proposed a method to obtain a high viscoelasticity solution by adding surfactants without wormlike micelles to a hydrophobically associated water-soluble polymer solution.

Application of Newly Synthesized Sulfobetaine Based on Sweet Almond Oil in Bath Liquids for Sensitive Skin

Three formulations for bath liquids were developed, differing in the type of amphoteric surfactant applied. The formulations used Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Cocamidpropyl Hydroxide and newly synthesized sulfobetaine based on sweet almond oil (Oleicamidopropyl Sultaine). The molecular structure of the surfactant used in the manufactured formulations has a negatively charged sulfonate group and a positively charged quaternary nitrogen atom. Such molecular structures suggest that the functional properties of this substance are mild. Based on the research, it was found that the bath fluid containing the newly synthesized sulfobetaine based on sweet almond oil had the lowest zein number, the lowest pH increase of bovine albumin solution and the lowest ability to emulsify fatty dirt. This indicates a very low irritant effect of the tested bath liquid.

Positive Effect of Cannabis sativa L. Herb Extracts on Skin Cells and Assessment of Cannabinoid-Based Hydrogels Properties

The skin is an organ that is constantly exposed to many external factors that can affect its structure and function. Due to the presence of different cannabinoid receptors on many types of skin cells, cannabinoids can interact directly with them. Therefore, as part of this work, the impact of two types of Cannabis sativa L. herb extracts on keratinocytes and fibroblasts was assessed. The content of biologically active compounds such as phenols, flavonoids, chlorophylls and cannabinoids was evaluated. The antioxidant capacity of prepared extracts using the DPPH radical, H2DCFDA probe and measurement of superoxide dismutase activity was also assessed. The cytotoxicity of hemp extracts was determined using the Alamar Blue, Neutral Red and LDH assays. The ability of the extracts to inhibit the activity of matrix metalloproteinases, collagenase and elastase, was assessed. Preparations of model hydrogels were also prepared and their effect on transepidermal water loss and skin hydration was measured. The obtained results indicate that hemp extracts can be a valuable source of biologically active substances that reduce oxidative stress, inhibit skin aging processes and positively affect the viability of skin cells. The analysis also showed that hydrogels based on cannabis extracts have a positive effect on skin hydration.

Microbial Biosurfactants in Cosmetic and Personal Skincare Pharmaceutical Formulations

Cosmetic and personal care products are globally used and often applied directly on the human skin. According to a recent survey in Europe, the market value of cosmetic and personal care products in Western Europe reached about 84 billion euros in 2018 and are predicted to increase by approximately 6% by the end of 2020. With these significant sums of money spent annually on cosmetic and personal care products, along with chemical surfactants being the main ingredient in a number of their formulations, of which many have been reported to have the potential to cause detrimental effects such as allergic reactions and skin irritations to the human skin; hence, the need for the replacement of chemical surfactants with other compounds that would have less or no negative effects on skin health. Biosurfactants (surfactants of biological origin) have exhibited great potential such as lower toxicity, skin compatibility, protection and surface moisturizing effects which are key components for an effective skincare routine. This review discusses the antimicrobial, skin surface moisturizing and low toxicity properties of glycolipid and lipopeptide biosurfactants which could make them suitable substitutes for chemical surfactants in current cosmetic and personal skincare pharmaceutical formulations. Finally, we discuss some challenges and possible solutions for biosurfactant applications.

Moringa oleifera L. Extracts as Bioactive Ingredients That Increase Safety of Body Wash Cosmetics

The work attempts to obtain a multifunctional plant extract derived from Moringa tree leaves. Obtained results indicate a strong antioxidant potential of the tested extracts. It was shown that Moringa oleifera leaf extract is a rich source of flavonoid and phenolic compounds. Furthermore, it shows a strong antioxidant activity by scavenging free radicals. In vitro toxicity studies showed that the tested extracts in concentrations up to 5% showed a positive effect on cell proliferation and metabolism and may contribute to the reduction of oxidative stress in cells. It was noted that the tested model formulation of cosmetic (1% SCS) with the addition of different types of extracts might contribute to the reduction of skin irritation and improve the safety of the product.

Microbial Biosurfactants as Key Multifunctional Ingredients for Sustainable Cosmetics

A polar head and an apolar tail chemically characterize surfactants, they show different properties and are categorized by different factors such as head charge and molecular weight. They work by reducing the surface tension between oil and water phases to facilitate the formation of one homogeneous mixture. In this respect, they represent unavoidable ingredients, their main application is in the production of detergents, one of if not the most important categories of cosmetics. Their role is very important, it should be remembered that it was precisely soaps and hygiene that defeated the main infectious diseases at the beginning of the last century. Due to their positive environmental impact, the potential uses of microbial sourced surfactants are actively investigated. These compounds are produced with different mechanisms by microorganisms in the aims to defend themselves from external threats, to improve the mobility in the environment, etc. In the cosmetic field, biosurfactants, restricted in the present work to those described above, can carry high advantages, in comparison to traditional surfactants, especially in the field of sustainable and safer approaches. Besiede this, costs still remain an obsatcle to their diffusion; in this regard, exploration of possible multifunctional actions could help to contain application costs. To highlight their features and possible multifunctional role, on the light of specific biological profiles yet underestimated, we have approached the present review work.

Marine-Derived Surface Active Agents: Health-Promoting Properties and Blue Biotechnology-Based Applications

Surface active agents are characterized for their capacity to adsorb to fluid and solid-water interfaces. They can be classified as surfactants and emulsifiers based on their molecular weight (MW) and properties. Over the years, the chemical surfactant industry has been rapidly increasing to meet consumer demands. Consequently, such a boost has led to the search for more sustainable and biodegradable alternatives, as chemical surfactants are non-biodegradable, thus causing an adverse effect on the environment. To these ends, many microbial and/or marine-derived molecules have been shown to possess various biological properties that could allow manufacturers to make additional health-promoting claims for their products. Our aim, in this review article, is to provide up to date information of critical health-promoting properties of these molecules and their use in blue-based biotechnology (i.e., biotechnology using aquatic organisms) with a focus on food, cosmetic and pharmaceutical/biomedical applications.

Complexes of Ectoine with the Anionic Surfactants as Active Ingredients of Cleansing Cosmetics with Reduced Irritating Potential

For many years, an increasing number of diagnosed atopy and skin problems have been observed. For people affected by the problem of atopy, the selection of skin care products, including cosmetics, is extremely important. Cleansing cosmetics, due to their ability to cause skin irritations and disturb the hydrolipidic barrier, can increase problems with atopic skin. New solutions to reduce the effects of these products on the skin are very important. In this work, the effect of ectoine on the properties of anionic surfactants was analyzed. Based on model systems, analysis of the effect of ectoine on the irritating effect of four anionic surfactants and their ability to solubilize model sebum was performed. Antioxidant activity was also evaluated, and cytotoxic studies were performed on cell cultures. It was shown that the addition of ectoine to the anionic surfactant solutions improves its safety of use. After introducing ectoine to the surfactant solution, a decrease of irritant potential (about 20%) and a decrease in the ability to solubilize of model sebum (about 10–20%) was noted. Addition of ectoine to surfactant solutions also reduced their cytotoxicity by up to 60%. The obtained results indicate that ectoine may be a modern ingredient that improves the safety of cleansing cosmetics.

Amphiphilic cationic polymers as effective substances improving the safety of use of body wash gels

Cationic surfactants have a wide range of applications in the cosmetic industry. The present study is an attempt to determine the effect of an amphiphilic cationic polymer - a cationic derivative of guar gum - on the safety of use of body wash cosmetics. Model body wash gels based on an anionic surfactant, containing 0.05, 0.25 and 0.5% of the studied compound, were subjected to analyses in order to evaluate their skin irritation effect and the ability to solubilize model sebum. Cell culture studies were also carried out. In addition, the effect of the cationized guar gum derivative on the key quality parameters of body wash cosmetics (viscosity and foaming properties) was assessed. The analyses showed that the addition of the cationic guar gum derivative induced a significant increase in the safety of use of the model body wash gels without causing any impairment of the functional properties of the product.

Effect of molecular weight of polyvinylpyrrolidone on the skin irritation potential and properties of body wash cosmetics in the coacervate form

Body wash cosmetics are among the most common groups of cosmetics used by consumers. Faced with strong competition in the marketplace, cosmetic manufacturers search for innovative solutions both in terms of product composition and form. An example of an innovative technology which can be used in the production of body wash cosmetics is the process of coacervation which yields a concentrated body wash product. Another important aspect which needs to be considered in the formulation of body wash cosmetics is their safety of use. It is crucial to ensure that such cosmetic products do not induce skin irritations. At present, the most widespread method of reducing the skin irritation potential of cosmetic products is the use of surfactant mixtures. The study is an attempt to evaluate the effect of using polyvinylpyrrolidone in the formulations of model body wash cosmetics in the coacervate form on the skin irritation potential and basic quality determinants of body wash products. Polyvinylpyrrolidone was found to contribute to a significant reduction in the irritant effect, and the skin irritation potential decreased in proportion to increasing molecular mass of the polymer. The application of polyvinylpyrrolidone with the different molecular weight also has an impact on improving the foaming properties of model body wash cosmetics and the stability of foam they produce.

Reduction of Irritation Potential Caused by Anionic Surfactants in the Use of Various Forms of Collagen Derived from Marine Sources in Cosmetics for Children

Surfactants, which are the basic ingredients in washing cosmetics, can cause skin irritation. In the case of washing cosmetics intended for children, it is necessary to select the composition in such a way as to ensure maximum reduction or even elimination of the irritant effect of the final product. The paper attempts to improve the safety of bath cosmetics for children by introducing: collagen amino acids (150 Da), hydrolysed collagen (12000 Da) and soluble collagen (300 000 Da). Zein value, bovine albumin, and human keratinocyte cell line studies have shown a significant decrease in the irritant potential of the compositions following the introduction of the proposed additives, which is more pronounced with the increase in the molecular weight of marine collagen. An important part of this work is a mechanism proposed by the authors, according to which the addition of the proposed additives can increase safety of the application of cosmetics for children.

Microbial biosurfactants: current trends and applications in agricultural and biomedical industries

Synthetic surfactants are becoming increasingly unpopular in many applications due to previously disregarded effects on biological systems and this has led to a new focus on replacing such products with biosurfactants that are biodegradable and produced from renewal resources. Microbially derived biosurfactants have been investigated in numerous studies in areas including: increasing feed digestibility in an agricultural context, improving seed protection and fertility, plant pathogen control, antimicrobial activity, antibiofilm activity, wound healing and dermatological care, improved oral cavity care, drug delivery systems and anticancer treatments. The development of the potential of biosurfactants has been hindered somewhat by the myriad of approaches taken in their investigations, the focus on pathogens as source species and the costs associated with large-scale production. Here, we focus on various microbial sources of biosurfactants and the current trends in terms of agricultural and biomedical applications.

Inulin as an effectiveness and safe ingredient in cosmetics

Jerusalem artichoke (Helianthus tuberosus) and chicory (Cichorium intybus) are valuable pharmaceutical raw materials on account of their high content of inulin, a natural prebiotic. Inulin-rich plants are also increasingly employed in the formulation of cosmetic products. The paper presents the biological properties of aqueous and aqueous-ethanolic extracts of Jerusalem artichoke and chicory. The extracts have been found to have a high free radical scavenging ability, with the most beneficial antioxidant properties being observed for the aqueous-ethanolic extract of Jerusalem artichoke. Inulin isolated from both plant types is a safe and non-toxic raw material. Inulin added to model body wash gel formulations markedly reduces their potential to cause skin irritation and sensitization.

Sodium Lauryl Sulfate vs. Sodium Coco Sulfate. Study of the Safety of Use Anionic Surfactants with Respect to Their Interaction with the Skin

As a result of growing awareness, consumers are increasingly interested in products that are safe on the skin and environmentally-friendly. This is one of the most important reasons for the very rapid development of the natural cosmetics segment which has been observed for several years now. Among the most commonly used anionic surfactants of natural origin are sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) and sodium coco sulfate (SCS). As there are no unambiguous reports on the safety of using SCS, in this study an attempt was made to evaluate the effect of SCS on the skin. The results of the determination of the skin irritation potential (zein value) indicate that the analyzed parameter is approximately 15 % lower in SCS than in SLS. SCS has a stronger ability to interact with epidermal lipids and cause their elution from the skin, which in turn may damage the protective epidermal barrier. The results obtained during the evaluation of the effect produced by the analyzed substances on the metabolism of human keratinocytes (HaCaT) show that after 4 h of incubation with the studied groups of compounds there was a significant decrease in cell proliferation. The highest decrease in cell metabolism was demonstrated for SLS.

Interactions between surfactants and the skin - Theory and practice

One of the primary causes of skin irritation is the use of body wash cosmetics and household chemicals, since they are in direct contact with the skin, and they are widely available and frequently used. The main ingredients of products of this type are surfactants, which may have diverse effects on the skin. The skin irritation potential of surfactants is determined by their chemical and physical properties resulting from their structure, and specific interactions with the skin. Surfactants are capable of interacting both with proteins and lipids in the stratum corneum. By penetrating through this layer, surfactants are also able to affect living cells in deeper regions of the skin. Further skin penetration may result in damage to cell membranes and structural components of keratinocytes, releasing proinflammatory mediators. By causing irreversible changes in cell structure, surfactants can often lead to their death. The paper presents a critical review of literature on the effects of surfactants on the skin. Aspects discussed in the paper include the skin irritation potential of surfactants, mechanisms underlying interactions between compounds of this type and the skin which have been proposed over the years, and verified methods of reducing the skin irritation potential of surfactant compounds. Basic research conducted in this field over many years translate into practical applications of surfactants in the cosmetic and household chemical industries. This aspect is also emphasized in the present study.

Effect of Molecular Weight of Polymers on the Properties of Delicate Facial Foams

Body wash cosmetics are among the most popular and numerous groups of cosmetic products. In chemical terms, they are solutions of surface active agents with the addition of multiple substances such as preservatives, moisturizing agents, fragrances or viscosity modifiers, the aim of which is to improve specific product properties. The present study evaluated the effect of the molecular weight of polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) on the properties of face washing products in the form of foam produced with foaming dispensers. A special focus was on key product quality characteristics including foaming properties and skin irritation potential. An addition of PVP to the formulation was found to contribute to an improvement in product foaming properties and a decrease in skin irritation potential. In addition, the studied properties of samples were shown to improve in proportion to the increasing molecular weight of the polymer.

Bioactivity of glycolipopeptide cell-bound biosurfactants against skin pathogens

The antimicrobial and anti-adhesive activities of the cell-bound biosurfactants, produced by Lactobacillus pentosus (PEB), characterized as glycolipopeptide macromolecules, were evaluated against several microorganisms present in the skin microflora, envisaging its potential use as a "natural" ingredient in cosmetic and personal care formulations. Their performance was compared with another cell-bound biosurfactants also characterized as glycolipopeptides produced by Lactobacillus paracasei (PAB). At concentrations of 50mg/mL, the PEB showed an important antimicrobial activity against Pseudomonas aeruginosa (85% when extracted with phosphate buffer (PB) and 100% when extracted with phosphate buffer saline (PBS)), Streptococcus agalactiae (100% for both extracts), Staphylococcus aureus (67% when extracted with PBS and 100% when extracted with PB), Escherichia coli (72% when extracted with PB and 89% when extracted with PBS), Streptococcus pyogenes (about 85% for both extracts) and Candida albicans (around 70% for both extracts), comparable with that obtained for the PAB. However, at lower concentrations the PAB exhibited in general higher antimicrobial activities. Biosurfactants produced by both microorganisms also showed significant anti-adhesive properties against all the microorganisms under study, except for E. coli and C. albicans (less than 30%). Overall, these cell-bound biosurfactants could be used as potential antimicrobial and anti-adhesive agents in cosmetic and pharmaceutical formulations.

Hydrophilic Dogwood Extracts as Materials for Reducing the Skin Irritation Potential of Body Wash Cosmetics

A significant problem related to the use of surfactants in body wash cosmetics is their propensity to trigger skin irritations. Only scarce literature exists on the effect of plant extracts on the skin irritation potential. The present study is an attempt to determine the effect of hydrophilic dogwood extracts on the irritant potential of body wash gels. Extractants used in the study were water and mixtures of water with glycerine, water with trimethylglycine (betaine), and water with plant-derived glycol (propanediol). The basic biochemical properties, i.e., the ability to neutralize free radicals, and the content of polyphenols, anthocyanins and flavonoids, were determined. An attempt was undertaken to analyze the impact of the extract added to natural body wash gel formulations on product properties. The skin irritation potential was assessed by determining the zein number and the increase in the pH level of the bovine serum albumin (BSA) solution. The viscosity and foaming ability of the resulting products were evaluated. The studies revealed that an addition of dogwood extract contributes to an improvement in the properties of body wash gels and significantly increases the safety of product use through reducing the skin irritation effect.

Biosurfactants in cosmetic formulations: trends and challenges

Cosmetic products play an essential role in everyone's life. People everyday use a large variety of cosmetic products such as soap, shampoo, toothpaste, deodorant, skin care, perfume, make-up, among others. The cosmetic industry encompasses several environmental, social and economic impacts that are being addressed through the search for more efficient manufacturing techniques, the reduction of waste and emissions and the promotion of personal hygiene, contributing to an improvement of public health and at the same time providing employment opportunities. The current trend among consumers is the pursuit for natural ingredients in cosmetic products, as many of these products exhibit equal, better or additional benefits in comparison with the chemical-based products. In this sense, biosurfactants are natural compounds with great potential in the formulation of cosmetic products given by their biodegradability and impact in health. Indeed, many of these biosurfactants could exhibit a "prebiotic" character. This review covers the current state-of-the-art of biosurfactant research for cosmetic purposes and further discusses the future challenges for cosmetic applications.

Improvement in the Safety of Use of Hand Dishwashing Liquids Through the Addition of Hydrophobic Plant Extracts

We investigated the effect of hydrophobic extract concentration on the safety of using hand dishwashing liquids (HDL). A series of formulations was prepared, differing in the concentration of the hydrophobic chamomile extract obtained in supercritical CO₂ conditions (from 0 to 0.7 %). We found that an increase in the concentration of the extract led to a decrease in the zein number, and reduced changes in the pH level of bovine serum albumin solution (i.e., two parameters determining the irritant activity of the formulations). It was also found that the additives reduced transepidermal water loss and improved the skin hydration level. Based on the findings of the study, a mechanism has been proposed, according to which hydrophobic plant extracts form aggregates in the volume phase of the washing bath. The surface of the aggregates is the adsorption area for surfactant monomers responsible for the irritant effect. Increasing the addition of the extract was shown to reduce the negative impact of the formulations on the skin of the hands, thus contributing to a greater safety of use of HDL.

Effect of the Concentration of Hop Cone Extract on the Antibacterial, Physico-Chemical and Functional Properties of Adhesive Toilet Cleaners

The study discusses the technology of preparation, and antibacterial, physicochemical and functional properties of advanced eco-friendly products for maintaining hygiene in toilets. The active substance with antibacterial properties which was added to the formulations for the purpose of the study was Humulus lupulus (hop cone) extract obtained under supercritical carbon dioxide conditions. The assumption was that the extract would improve the antibacterial activity of the products without adversely affecting their functional properties. The addition of hop cone extract at the concentration of 0.1% to the tested formulations was found to produce an antibacterial effect against S. aureus bacteria, however, no such activity was demonstrated against E. coli bacteria. Moreover, an increase in the content of the extract was shown to enhance product viscosity, at the same time extending the time of dissolution in water and improving the adhesive power to solid surfaces. The properties are highly desirable for the functionality of products of this type.