The anti-melanogenic effects of 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid via Nrf2-mediated α-MSH inhibition in UVA-irradiated keratinocytes and autophagy induction in melanocytes

Highly potent anti-melanogenic effect of 2-thiobenzothiazole derivatives through nanomolar tyrosinase activity inhibition

Compounds with sulfhydryl substituents and azole compounds exhibit potent anti-tyrosinase potency. 2-Thiobenzothiazole (2-TBT), a hybrid structure of sulfhydryl and azole, exists in two tautomeric forms, with the thione form being predominant according to several studies. 2-TBT derivatives were synthesized as potential tyrosinase inhibitors as the thione tautomeric form has the same N-CS moiety as phenylthiourea (PTU), which is suitable for chelation with the copper ions present in the tyrosinase active site. Eight of the ten 2-TBT derivatives inhibited the monophenolase and diphenolase activities of mushroom tyrosinase, with IC50 values of 0.02-0.83 μM. Kinetic studies and molecular dynamics simulations were performed to determine their mode of action and confirm that the 2-TBT derivatives bind to the tyrosinase active site with high stability. Derivatives 3, 4, 8, and 10 strongly inhibited melanogenesis in B16F10 cells in a pattern similar to the results of cellular tyrosinase inhibition, thereby suggesting that their ability to inhibit melanogenesis was due to their tyrosinase inhibitory activity. In a depigmentation experiment using zebrafish embryos, all 2-TBT derivatives showed better potency than kojic acid, even at 400 to 2000 times lower concentration, and 1 and 10 reduced zebrafish larva pigmentation more strongly than PTU even at 20 times lower concentration. Experiments investigating the changes in tyrosinase inhibitory activity of 2-TBT derivatives in the presence and absence of CuSO4 and their copper chelating ability supported that these derivatives exert their anti-melanogenic effect by chelating the copper ions of tyrosinase. These results suggest that 2-TBT derivatives are promising candidates for the treatment of hyperpigmentation-related disorders.

miR-25-5p in exosomes derived from UVB-induced fibroblasts regulates melanogenesis via TSC2-dominated cellular organelle dysfunction

BACKGROUND

Few reports have confirmed whether exosomes derived from fibroblasts can regulate the process of melanogenesis. We wondered whether exosomes derived from fibroblasts could have a potent regulatory effect on melanogenesis and explored the underlying mechanisms.

OBJECTIVE

This study aimed to find the role of fibroblasts in melanocytes and revealed the related mechanisms.

METHODS

RT-qPCR, Western blot analysis were conducted to measure the RNA and protein expression level of various related genes. miRNA sequencing, mass spectrum analysis and subsequent bioinformatics analysis were employed to find the underlying targets. Zebrafish were employed to measure the melanin synthesis related process in vivo. Furthermore, electron microscopy, ROS measurement and dual-luciferase reporter assay were adopted to investigate the relationship between these processes.

RESULTS

We found that exosomes derived from human primary dermal fibroblasts were internalized by human primary melanocytes and MNT1 cells and that the melanin content and the expression of melanin synthesis-related proteins TYR and MITF was inhibited by exosomes derived from UVB-induced human primary dermal fibroblasts. The miRNA expression profile in secreted exosomes changed significantly, with miR-25-5p identified as capable of regulating TSC2 expression via the CDS region. The miR-25-5p-TSC2 axis could affect the melanin content through subsequent cellular organelle dysfunction, such as mitochondrial dysfunction, endoplasmic reticulum stress and dysregulation of lysosomal cysteine proteases.

CONCLUSION

We unveiled a novel regulatory role of fibroblasts in melanocytes, facilitated by the secretion of exosomes. miR-25-5p within exosomes plays a pivotal role in regulating melanogenesis via TSC2-induced cellular organelle dysfunction.

The in vitro and in vivo depigmentation activity of coenzyme Q0, a major quinone derivative from Antrodia camphorata, through autophagy induction in human melanocytes and keratinocytes

BACKGROUND

Coenzyme Q0 (CoQ0), a novel quinone derivative of Antrodia camphorata, has been utilized as a therapeutic agent (including antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antiangiogenic, antiatherosclerotic, and anticancer agents); however, its depigmenting efficiency has yet to be studied.

METHODS

We resolved the depigmenting efficiency of CoQ0 through autophagy induction in melanoma (B16F10) and melanin-feeding keratinocyte (HaCaT) cells and in vivo Zebrafish model. Then, MPLC/HPLC analysis, MTT assay, Western blotting, immunofluorescence staining, LC3 transfection, melanin formation, GFP-LC3 puncta, AVO formation, tyrosinase activity, and TEM were used.

RESULTS

CoQ0-induced autophagy in B16F10 cells was shown by enhanced LC3-II accumulation, ATG7 expression, autophagosome GFP-LC3 puncta, and AVOs formation, and ATG4B downregulation, and Beclin-1/Bcl-2 dysregulation. In α-MSH-stimulated B16F10 cells, CoQ0 induced antimelanogenesis by suppressing CREB-MITF pathway, tyrosinase expression/activity, and melanin formation via autophagy. TEM data disclosed that CoQ0 increased melanosome-engulfing autophagosomes and autolysosomes in α-MSH-stimulated B16F10 cells. CoQ0-inhibited melanogenesis in α-MSH-stimulated B16F10 cells was reversed by pretreatment with the autophagy inhibitor 3-MA or silencing of LC3. Additionally, CoQ0-induced autophagy in HaCaT cells was revealed by enhanced LC3-II accumulation, autophagosome GFP-LC3 puncta and AVO formation, ATG4B downregulation, ATG5/ATG7 expression, and Beclin-1/Bcl-2 dysregulation. In melanin-feeding HaCaT cells, CoQ0 induced melanin degradation by suppressing melanosome gp100 and melanin formation via autophagy. TEM confirmed that CoQ0 increased melanosome-engulfing autophagosomes and autolysosomes in melanin-feeding HaCaT cells. Treatment with 3-MA reversed CoQ0-mediated melanin degradation in melanin-feeding HaCaT cells. In vivo study showed that CoQ0 suppressed endogenous body pigmentation by antimelanogenesis and melanin degradation through autophagy induction in a zebrafish model.

CONCLUSIONS

Our results showed that CoQ0 exerted antimelanogenesis and melanin degradation by inducing autophagy. CoQ0 could be used in skin-whitening formulations as a topical cosmetic application.

In vitro and in vivo anti-pigmentation effects of 2-mercaptobenzimidazoles as nanomolar tyrosinase inhibitors on mammalian cells and zebrafish embryos: Preparation of pigment-free zebrafish embryos

Recently, 10 2-mercaptobenzo[d]imidazole (2-MBI) compounds (1-10) were synthesized. Although all 2-MBI compounds are tyrosinase inhibitors that inhibit mushroom tyrosinase at extremely low concentrations (IC50 values: 20-740 nM) and effectively inhibit the browning of apples, to our knowledge, no studies have determined whether 2-MBI compounds inhibit mammalian tyrosinase. Mammalian tyrosinase is different from mushroom tyrosinase in its distribution within the cell and has structural characteristics that are different from mushroom tyrosinase in amino acid sequence and in the presence of a quaternary structure. Thus, the effect of the 10 2-MBI compounds on mammalian tyrosinase activity was investigated in B16F10 cells. Six compounds (1-6) exhibited stronger intracellular tyrosinase inhibition than that of kojic acid and phenylthiourea (PTU), which are known to be the most potent tyrosinase inhibitors; their strong tyrosinase inhibitory activity robustly inhibited intracellular melanin production in B16F10 cells. None of the tested 2-MBI compounds exhibited appreciable cytotoxicity in HaCaT and B16F10 cells. To confirm the anti-melanogenic efficacy of the 2-MBI compounds in vivo, a zebrafish embryo model was used. At concentrations 100 times lower than kojic acid, most 2-MBI compounds demonstrated much stronger depigmentation efficacy than that of kojic acid, and three 2-MBI compounds (2-4) showed depigmentation activity similar to or more potent than that of PTU, resulting in nearly pigment-free zebrafish embryos. These results suggest that 2-MBI compounds may be potential therapeutic agents for hyperpigmentation-related disorders.

The Anti-Inflammatory Action of Cannabigerol Accompanied by the Antioxidant Effect of 3-O-ethyl Ascorbic Acid in UVA-Irradiated Human Keratinocytes

Excessive daily exposure of human skin to natural UVA radiation leads to impaired redox homeostasis in epidermal keratinocytes, resulting in changes in their proteome. Commonly used antioxidants usually exhibit protection in a narrowed range, which makes it necessary to combine their effects. Therefore, the aim of this study was to analyze the protective effect of cannabigerol (CBG) and 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid (EAA), used separately and together, on the proteomic profile of UVA irradiated keratinocytes. Proteomic analysis with the use of the Q Exactive HF mass spectrometer, combined with biostatistic tests, performed on UVA-irradiated keratinocytes indicated enhanced and lowered expression of 186 and 160 proteins, respectively. CBG treatment after UVA irradiation reduced these numbers to 110 upregulated and 49 downregulated proteins, while EAA eliminated all these changes. CBG completely eliminated the UV-induced effect on the expression of pro-inflammatory proteins and significantly increased the level of proteins responsible for cellular locomotion. On the other hand, CBG reduced the level of UVA-induced 4-hydroxynonenal protein adducts fivefold, whereas EAA had no effect on this modification. At the same time, CBG and EAA did not modify the expression/structure of proteins in relation to the nonirradiated control keratinocytes in the case of an unaccompanied use or slightly modified the protein profile when used in a mixture. The combined protective effects of CBG on protein structure and EAA on protein expression profile allowed us to obtain a wider protection of cells against UVA radiation, compared with when the compounds were used alone. SIGNIFICANCE STATEMENT: Proteomic analysis of human skin cells allows to conclude that 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid eliminates UVA-induced changes in the expression of keratinocyte proteins, while cannabigerol significantly reduces 4-hydroxynonenal protein adducts. The combined protective effects of cannabigerol on protein structure and of 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid on protein expression profile allowed to obtain a wider protection of cells against UVA radiation.

Clinical Development and Evaluation of a Multi-Component Dissolving Microneedle Patch for Skin Pigmentation Disorders

Excessive melanin deposition in the skin leads to various skin pigmentation diseases, such as chloasma and age spots. The deposition is induced by several factors, including tyrosinase activities and ultraviolet-induced oxidative stress. Herein, we propose a multi-component, multi-pathway drug combination, with glabridin, 3-O-ethyl-L-ascorbic acid, and tranexamic acid employed as, respectively, a tyrosinase inhibitor, an antioxidant, and a melanin transmission inhibitor. Considering the poor skin permeability associated with topical application, dissolving microneedles (MNs) prepared with hyaluronic acid/poly(vinyl alcohol)/poly(vinylpyrrolidone) were developed to load the drug combination. The drug-loaded microneedles (DMNs) presented outstanding skin insertion, dissolution, and drug delivery properties. In vitro experiments confirmed that DMNs loaded with active ingredients had significant antioxidant and inhibitory effects on tyrosinase activity. Furthermore, the production of melanin both in melanoma cells (B16-F10) and in zebrafish was directly reduced after using DMNs. Clinical studies demonstrated the DMNs' safety and showed that they have the ability to effectively reduce chloasma and age spots. This study indicated that a complex DMN based on a multifunctional combination is a valuable depigmentation product worthy of clinical application.

Handelin protects human skin keratinocytes against ultraviolet B-induced photodamage via autophagy activation by regulating the AMPK-mTOR signaling pathway

Handelin is a natural ingredient extracted from Chrysanthemum boreale flowers that has been shown to decrease stress-related cell death, prolong lifespan, and promote anti-photoaging. However, whether handelin inhibits ultraviolet (UV) B stress-induced photodamage remains unclear. In the present study, we investigate whether handelin has protective properties on skin keratinocytes under UVB irradiation. Human immortalized keratinocytes (HaCaT keratinocytes) were pretreated with handelin for 12 h before UVB irradiation. The results indicated that handelin protects keratinocytes against UVB-induced photodamage by activating autophagy. However, the photoprotective effect of handelin was suppressed by an autophagic inhibitor (wortmannin) or the transfection of keratinocytes with a small interfering RNA targeting ATG5. Notably, handelin reduced mammalian target of rapamycin (mTOR) activity in UVB-irradiated cells in a manner similar to that shown by the mTOR inhibitor rapamycin. Adenosine monophosphate-activated protein kinase (AMPK) activity was also induced by handelin in UVB-damaged keratinocytes. Finally, certain effects of handelin, including autophagy induction, mTOR activity inhibition, AMPK activation, and reduction of cytotoxicity, were suppressed by an AMPK inhibitor (compound C). Our data suggest that handelin effectively prevents photodamage by protecting skin keratinocytes against UVB-induced cytotoxicity via the regulation of AMPK/mTOR-mediated autophagy. These findings provide novel insights that can aid the development of therapeutic agents against UVB-induced keratinocyte photodamage.

Treatment update for vitiligo based on autoimmune inhibition and melanocyte protection

INTRODUCTION

The treatment of vitiligo remains challenging due to the complexity of its pathogenesis, influenced by genetic factors, oxidative stress and abnormal cell adhesion that collectively impact melanocyte survival and trigger immune system attacks, resulting in melanocyte death. Melanocytes in vitiligo are believed to exhibit genetic susceptibility and defects in cellular mechanisms, such as defects in autophagy, that reduce their ability to resist oxidative stress, leading to increased expression of the pro-inflammatory protein HSP70. The low expression of adhesion molecules, such as DDR1 and E-cadherin, accelerates melanocyte damage and antigen exposure. Consequently, autoimmune attacks centered on IFN-γ-CXCR9/10-CXCR3-CD8⁺ T cells are initiated, causing vitiligo.

AREAS COVERED

This review discusses the latest knowledge on the pathogenesis of vitiligo and potential therapeutic targets from the perspective of suppressing autoimmune attacks and activating melanocytes functions.

EXPERT OPINION

Vitiligo is one of the most challenging dermatological diseases due to its complex pathogenesis with diverse therapeutic targets. Immune suppression, such as corticosteroids and emerging JAK inhibitors, has proven effective in disease progression. However, during the early stages of the disease, it is also important to optimize therapeutic strategies to activate melanocytes for alleviating oxidative stress and improving treatment outcomes.

The dual role of Nrf2 in melanoma: a systematic review

Melanoma is the most lethal type of skin cancer that originates from the malignant transformation of melanocytes. Although novel treatments have improved patient survival in melanoma, the overall prognosis remains poor. To improve current therapies and patients outcome, it is necessary to identify the influential elements in the development and progression of melanoma.Due to UV exposure and melanin synthesis, the melanocytic lineage seems to have a higher rate of ROS (reactive oxygen species) formation. Melanoma has been linked to an increased oxidative state, and all facets of melanoma pathophysiology rely on redox biology. Several redox-modulating pathways have arisen to resist oxidative stress. One of which, the Nrf2 (nuclear factor erythroid 2-related factor 2), has been recognized as a master regulator of cellular response to oxidative or electrophilic challenges. The activation of Nrf2 signaling causes a wide range of antioxidant and detoxification enzyme genes to be expressed. As a result, this transcription factor has lately received a lot of interest as a possible cancer treatment target.On the other hand, Nrf2 has been found to have a variety of activities in addition to its antioxidant abilities, constant Nrf2 activation in malignant cells may accelerate metastasis and chemoresistance. Hence, based on the cell type and context, Nrf2 has different roles in either preventing or promoting cancer. In this study, we aimed to systematically review all the studies discussing the function of Nrf2 in melanoma and the factors determining its alteration.

Regulation of wheat bran feruloyl oligosaccharides in the intestinal antioxidative capacity of rats associated with the p38/JNK-Nrf2 signaling pathway and gut microbiota

BACKGROUND

Feruloyl oligosaccharides (FOs), the ferulic acid ester of oligosaccharides, may possess the physiological functions of both ferulic acid and oligosaccharides, including antioxidative activity and gut microbiota modulation capacity. The present study aimed to investigate whether FOs could regulate the intestinal antioxidative capacity of rats by modulating the MAPKs/Nrf2 signaling pathway and gut microbiota. Thirty Wistar rats were randomly divided into five groups. Rats received a standard diet and were gavaged once daily with 0.85% normal saline, 100 mg kg^-1 body weight vitamin C or FOs solution at doses of 20, 40 and 80 mg kg^-1 body weight for 21 days.

RESULTS

FOs strengthened the antioxidative capacity of the jejunum, as indicated by increased in contents of catalase, superoxide dismutase and glutathione peroxidase, as well as glutathione. Moreover, FOs administration upregulated the mRNA expression level of antioxidant-related genes (glutamate-cysteine ligase catalytic subunit, glutamate-cysteine ligase modifier subunit and heme oxygenase-1) in the jejunum. Increases in phosphorylation levels of Nrf2, p38 and JNK were also observed. Administration with 40 mg kg^-1 FOs altered the structure and composition of the cecal microbiota, which was indicated by the increased the relative abundances of Actinobacteria, Proteobacteria and Acidobacteriota, and the decreased the relative abundances of Firmicutes, Lachnospiraceae_NK4A136_group and Blautia. Furthermore, Spearman correlation analysis revealed that the altered cecal microbiota closely correlated with jejunal antioxidative capacity of rats.

CONCLUSION

FOs could be used as an antioxidant for gut heath improvement through modulating the p38/JNK-Nrf2 signaling pathway and gut microbiota. © 2022 Society of Chemical Industry.

Screening of Adapalene Microsponges Fabrication Parameters with Insight on the In vitro Biological Effectiveness

PURPOSE

The objective of the present study was to scrutinize the microsponges (MS) as a carrier system using Adapalene (ADA) as a model drug.

METHODS

Data modelling was implemented using Plackett-Burman design to identify the main variables affecting the formulation of ADA-MS. The adopted method of preparation for MS was quasi-emulsion solvent diffusion method. The nominated independent variables were volume of organic phase, sonication time, stirring speed, drug percent, polymer type, emulsifier concentration, and method of organic phase addition. As for the dependent variables, they included entrapment efficiency (E.E.%), production yield (P.Y.%), particle size (P.S.) and morphology. Furthermore, selected ADA loaded microsponges (ADA-MS) were in vitro assayed for their biological activities via cytotoxicity, UVA irradiation and cell viability, and antimicrobial activity.

RESULTS

The study indicated that the drug percent, polymer type and surfactant concentration have the key significant effect on E.E.% and P.Y.%, while, the drug percent, stirring speed and volume of organic phase have had a significant effect on P.S. and their morphology. Furthermore, ADA-MS had a momentous cytotoxic effect on A431 and M10 cell-lines with exceptional enrichment when the polymer Eudragit RS100 was used. Also, the ADA-MS increased the cell viability after UVA irradiation on HFB-4 cell-line by 14% to 43%, especially when using Ethyl Cellulose as a polymer. Lastly, the antimicrobial activity of ADA against Propionibacterium acnes was boosted when incorporated into MS.

CONCLUSION

The Plackett-Burman design proved its impact in discerning preparation variables affecting the quality of ADA-MS formulation, with heightening of the in vitro biological activities of ADA. Thus, MS was presumed to be an auspicious carrier system for ADA.

Dendrobine protects HACAT cells from H2O2-induced oxidative stress and apoptosis damage via Nrf2/Keap1/ARE signaling pathway

Skin offers protection, regulation, and sensation to the body. In collaboration with other stromal cells of the skin, keratinocytes, which differentiate from epidermis basal layers (low) to outer layers (high) leading to the stratum corneum, ensure that skin barrier function is achieved. Despite this, age-related inflammation and oxidative stress in the skin can negatively impact skin quality. Antioxidants can protect against skin damage, preventing skin aging or even reversing to some extent. Previous studies showed that Dendrobium Nobile (D. nobile) resists aging, prolongs life span, and attenuates oxidative damage and inflammation in various models. However, how D. nobile protects skin against aging or other damage is not well described yet. Therefore, in this study, a keratinocyte cell line (HACAT) was used to investigate the effect of dendrobine, the main active component of D. nobile, on oxidative damage in skin. We found that dendrobine reduced the level of intracellular reactive oxygen species by regulating the balance of antioxidant enzymes and oxidases, as well as decreased the cell apoptosis in H₂O₂-induced HACAT. Dendrobine also significantly activated the nuclear erythroid 2-related factor (Nrf2)/Keap1 signaling pathway. However, this antioxidant effect of dendrobine was abolished after Nrf2 gene being silenced. The results showed that dendrobine could resist the oxidative damage of skin cells, and its antioxidant function is related to the up-regulation of antioxidant enzymes as well as activation of Nrf2/Keap1 signaling pathway.

Diet and Vitiligo: The Story So Far

Vitiligo is an acquired skin pigmentation disease with a global burden of 0.5 to 2 percent of the population. Vitiligo therapy frequently poses a difficulty, which has sparked interest in alternative treatment modalities, including multivitamins and herbal supplementation. It has previously been established that nutrition plays a crucial role in developing, amplifying, or rehabilitating an array of human disorders. However, the correlation between diet diversity and immune-mediated skin diseases is still up to interpretation. Several supplements have been studied, including vitamins, minerals, and herbal supplements. Most studies agree that combining vitamin B12, folic acid, and sun exposure is good for inducing repigmentation. Supplementation of zinc and phenylalanine when used in conjunction with topical steroids or UV-B (ultraviolet B) treatment shows therapeutic effects on vitiligo due to their role in the melanin synthesis pathway. Investigations conducted on herbal supplements have revealed that most of them contain antioxidants, which aid in repigmentation. This narrative review's purpose is to discuss nutrition's function in immune-mediated inflammatory skin diseases from the perspective of the most recent and reliable information available. 

Hemin with Peroxidase Activity Can Inhibit the Oxidative Damage Induced by Ultraviolet A

Excessive reactive oxygen species (ROS), a highly reactive substance that contains oxygen, induced by ultraviolet A (UVA) cause oxidative damage to skin. We confirmed that hemin can catalyze the reaction of tyrosine (Tyr) and hydrogen peroxide (H₂O₂). Catalysis was found to effectively reduce or eliminate oxidative damage to cells induced by H₂O₂ or UVA. The scavenging effects of hemin for other free-radical ROS were also evaluated through pyrogallol autoxidation, 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl radical (DPPH·)-scavenging assays, and phenanthroline–Fe²⁺ assays. The results show that a mixture of hemin and tyrosine exhibits strong scavenging activities for H₂O₂, superoxide anion (O₂⁻·), DPPH·, and the hydroxyl radical (·OH). Furthermore, the inhibition of oxidative damage to human skin keratinocyte (HaCaT) cells induced by H₂O₂ or UVA was evaluated. The results show that catalysis can significantly reduce the ratio of cell apoptosis and death and inhibit the release of lactate dehydrogenase (LDH), as well as accumulation of malondialdehyde (MDA). Furthermore, the resistance to apoptosis was found to be enhanced. These results show that the mixture of hemin and tyrosine has a significantly protective effect against oxidative damage to HaCaT cells caused by UVA, suggesting it as a protective agent for combating UVA damage.

Potential Method of Autophagy Imaging with Cationized Gelatin Nanospheres Incorporating Molecular Beacon

The objective of this research is to develop an imaging method with cationized gelatin nanospheres incorporating molecular beacon (cGNS_MB) to visualize an autophagy activity in living cells. Cationized gelatin nanospheres (cGNS) were prepared by the conventional coacervation method, and then molecular beacon (MB) was incorporated into them. The cGNS_MB prepared were internalized into cells at a high efficiency. In this study, a starvation medium of serum and amino acids-free was used to induce autophagy. The autophagy activity was confirmed by an immunofluorescence staining for microtubule-associated proteins light chain 3B (LC3B) of an autophagy specific protein. With the autophagy induction time, the number of LC3 fluorescent dots increased, which indicated an increased autophagy activity. As the autophagy-related genes, sequestosome 1 (SQSTM1) and cathepsin F (CTSF), which up-regulate after autophagy induction, were chosen as the targets of cGNS_MB. The fluorescence intensity of cGNS_MB targeting to SQSTM1 and CTSF increased with the starvation treatment time, which well corresponded with the gene expression results. When applied to cells in different autophagy conditions, the cGNS_MB visualized the autophagy activity corresponding with the autophagy condition of cells. From the results obtained, it was concluded that the cGNS_MB provide a promising method to visualize the autophagy of cells. The advantage of cGNS_MB visualization is to obtain the temporal and spatial information without destroying sample cells.

Role of Phytochemicals in Skin Photoprotection via Regulation of Nrf2

Ethnopharmacological studies have become increasingly valuable in the development of botanical products and their bioactive phytochemicals as novel and effective preventive and therapeutic strategies for various diseases including skin photoaging and photodamage-related skin problems including abnormal pigmentation and inflammation. Exploring the roles of phytochemicals in mitigating ultraviolet radiation (UVR)-induced skin damage is thus of importance to offer insights into medicinal and ethnopharmacological potential for development of novel and effective photoprotective agents. UVR plays a role in the skin premature aging (or photoaging) or impaired skin integrity and function through triggering various biological responses of skin cells including apoptosis, oxidative stress, DNA damage and inflammation. In addition, melanin produced by epidermal melanocytes play a protective role against UVR-induced skin damage and therefore hyperpigmentation mediated by UV irradiation could reflect a sign of defensive response of the skin to stress. However, alteration in melanin synthesis may be implicated in skin damage, particularly in individuals with fair skin. Oxidative stress induced by UVR contributes to the process of skin aging and inflammation through the activation of related signaling pathways such as the mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK)/activator protein-1 (AP-1), the phosphatidylinositol 3-kinase (PI3K)/protein kinase B (Akt), the nuclear factor kappa B (NF-κB) and the signal transducer and activator of transcription (STAT) in epidermal keratinocytes and dermal fibroblasts. ROS formation induced by UVR also plays a role in regulation of melanogenesis in melanocytes via modulating MAPK, PI3K/Akt and the melanocortin 1 receptor (MC1R)-microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) signaling cascades. Additionally, nuclear factor erythroid 2-related factor 2 (Nrf2)-regulated antioxidant defenses can affect the major signaling pathways involved in regulation of photoaging, inflammation associated with skin barrier dysfunction and melanogenesis. This review thus highlights the roles of phytochemicals potentially acting as Nrf2 inducers in improving photoaging, inflammation and hyperpigmentation via regulation of cellular homeostasis involved in skin integrity and function. Taken together, understanding the role of phytochemicals targeting Nrf2 in photoprotection could provide an insight into potential development of natural products as a promising strategy to delay skin photoaging and improve skin conditions.

Sebocytes contribute to melasma onset

Melasma is a hyperpigmentary disorder with photoaging features, whose manifestations appear on specific face areas, rich in sebaceous glands (SGs). To explore the SGs possible contribution to the onset, the expression of pro-melanogenic and inflammatory factors from the SZ95 SG cell line exposed to single or repetitive ultraviolet (UVA) radiation was evaluated. UVA up-modulated the long-lasting production of α-MSH, EDN1, b-FGF, SCF, inflammatory cytokines and mediators. Irradiated SZ95 sebocyte conditioned media increased pigmentation in melanocytes and the expression of senescence markers, pro-inflammatory cytokines, and growth factors regulating melanogenesis in fibroblasts cultures. Cocultures experiments with skin explants confirmed the role of sebocytes on melanogenesis promotion. The analysis on sebum collected from melasma patients demonstrated that in vivo sebocytes from lesional areas express the UVA-activated pathways markers observed in vitro. Our results indicate sebocytes as one of the actors in melasma pathogenesis, inducing prolonged skin cell stimulation, contributing to localized dermal aging and hyperpigmentation.

Attenuation Effect of Radiofrequency Irradiation on UV-B-Induced Skin Pigmentation by Decreasing Melanin Synthesis and through Upregulation of Heat Shock Protein 70

Excess melanin deposition in the skin causes cosmetic problems. HSP70 upregulation decreases microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) expression, which eventually decreases tyrosinase activity and melanogenesis. Ultraviolet (UV) radiation upregulates p53, which increases the melanocortin receptor (MC1R) and MITF. Furthermore, HSP70 decreases p53 and radiofrequency irradiation (RF) increases HSP70. We evaluated whether RF increased HSP70 and decreased p53, consequently decreasing the MITF/tyrosinase pathway and melanogenesis in UV-B radiated animal skin. Various RF combinations with 50, 100, and 150 ms and 5, 10, and 15 W were performed on the UV-B radiated mouse skin every 2 d for 28 d. When RF was performed with 100 ms/10 W, melanin deposition, evaluated by Fontana–Masson staining, decreased without skin crust formation in the UV-B radiated skin. Thus, we evaluated the effect of RF on decreasing melanogenesis in the HEMn and UV-B radiated skin at a setting of 100 ms/10 W. HSP70 expression was decreased in the UV-B radiated skin but was increased by RF. The expression of p53, MC1R, and MITF increased in the UV-B radiated skin but was decreased by RF. The expression of p53, MC1R, and MITF increased in the α-MSH treated HEMn but was decreased by RF. The decreasing effects of RF on p53, MC1R, CREB and MITF were higher than those of HSP70-overexpressed HEMn. The decreasing effect of RF on p53, MC1R, CREB, and MITF disappeared in the HSP70-silenced HEMn. MC1R, CREB, and MITF were not significantly decreased by the p53 inhibitor in α-MSH treated HEMn. RF induced a greater decrease in MC1R, CREB, and MITF than the p53 inhibitor. Therefore, RF may have decreased melanin synthesis by increasing HSP70 and decreasing p53, thus decreasing MC1R/CREB/MITF and tyrosinase activity.

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (THDC) Degrades Rapidly under Oxidative Stress but Can Be Stabilized by Acetyl Zingerone to Enhance Collagen Production and Antioxidant Effects

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (THDC) is an L-ascorbic acid precursor with improved stability and ability to penetrate the epidermis. The stability and transdermal penetration of THDC, however, may be compromised by the oxidant-rich environment of human skin. In this study, we show that THDC is a poor antioxidant that degrades rapidly when exposed to singlet oxygen. This degradation, however, was prevented by combination with acetyl zingerone (AZ) as a stabilizing antioxidant. As a standalone ingredient, THDC led to unexpected activation of type I interferon signaling, but this pro-inflammatory effect was blunted in the presence of AZ. Moreover, the combination of THDC and AZ increased expression of genes associated with phospholipid homeostasis and keratinocyte differentiation, along with repression of MMP1 and MMP7 expression, inhibition of MMP enzyme activity, and increased production of collagen proteins by dermal fibroblasts. Lastly, whereas THDC alone reduced viability of keratinocytes exposed to oxidative stress, this effect was completely abrogated by the addition of AZ to THDC. These results show that AZ is an effective antioxidant stabilizer of THDC and that combination of these products may improve ascorbic acid delivery. This provides a step towards reaching the full potential of ascorbate as an active ingredient in topical preparations.