Strategies for improved hair binding: Keratin fractions and the impact of cationic substructures

Trends in biopolymer science applied to cosmetics

The term biopolymer refers to materials obtained by chemically modifying natural biological substances or producing them through biotechnological processes. They are biodegradable, biocompatible and non-toxic. Due to these advantages, biopolymers have wide applications in conventional cosmetics and new trends and have emerged as essential ingredients that function as rheological modifiers, emulsifiers, film-formers, moisturizers, hydrators, antimicrobials and, more recently, materials with metabolic activity on skin. Developing approaches that exploit these features is a challenge for formulating skin, hair and oral care products and dermatological formulations. This article presents an overview of the use of the principal biopolymers used in cosmetic formulations and describes their sources, recently derived structures, novel applications and safety aspects of the use of these molecules.

Non-invasive assessment of hair regeneration in androgenetic alopecia mice in vivo using two-photon and second harmonic generation imaging

The identification of crucial targets for hair regrowth in androgenetic alopecia (AGA) involves determining important characteristics and different stages during the process of hair follicle regeneration. Traditional methods for assessing key features and different stages of hair follicle primarily involve taking skin tissue samples and determining them through various staining or other methods. However, non-invasive assessment methods have been long sought. Therefore, in this study, endogenous fluorescence signals from skin keratin and second harmonic signals from skin collagen fibers were utilized as probes, two-photon excited fluorescence (TPEF) and second harmonic generation (SHG) imaging techniques were employed to non-invasively assess hair shafts and collagen fibers in AGA mice in vivo. The TPEF imaging technique revealed that the alternation of new and old hair shafts and the different stages of the growth period in AGA mice were delayed. In addition, SHG imaging found testosterone reduced hair follicle area and miniaturized hair follicles. The non-invasive TPEF and SHG imaging techniques provided important methodologies for determining significant characteristics and different stages of the growth cycle in AGA mice, which will facilitate future non-invasive assessments on human scalps in vivo and reduce the use of animal testing.

Mechanisms of impairment in hair and scalp induced by hair dyeing and perming and potential interventions

With the rapid growth of beauty and personal care industries, many hair-relevant products, hair dyes and hair perms in particular, are increasingly prevalent in both women and men, regardless of being young or old as they frequently change hair color or shape to enhance youthfulness and beauty and to follow fashion trends. Hair dyes and perms alter hair color and/or shape by mechanically changing the physical structure and chemical substances of the hair shaft. However, treatment of hair with chemical formulations has been potentially ascribed to adverse outcomes in the hair shaft including structure damage, chemical constituent disorder, and impaired physical properties, although hair cosmetics procedures are intrinsically safe. Nevertheless, the mechanisms of impairment in the hair shaft and scalp induced by hair dyeing and perming remain elusive. Additionally, adverse reactions activated by exposure to specific chemical ingredients including skin irritation, allergic contact dermatitis (ACD), and even cancer risk have been reported clinically, but existing evidence is not consistent enough in the case of human studies. Herein, the review aims to give an overview of hair cosmetics, especially concerning the basic knowledge about various hair dyes and perms, the consequences for hair shafts and the scalp resulting from the application of hair cosmetics mentioned above, mechanisms of hazardous outcomes, and potential desirable interventions to alleviate the impairment.

Arginine-fructose-glucose from red ginseng extract reduces stiffness of keratin fiber in corneocyte of skin

PURPOSE

The moisture content of the stratum corneum of the skin changes depending on the external environment. The structure of keratinous fiber protein in corneocyte of the skin changes depending on the amount of moisture. As the moisture decreases, the population of the alpha-helix increases, the beta-sheet deceases, and the stiffness increases accordingly. Here, we investigated the effect of humectants from ginseng on the keratin structure.

METHODS

Corneocyte was prepared from dry porcine skin with disc tape and measured through ATR-FT-IR. The signal from amide I of the keratin protein in corneocyte was detected, and the change in the ratio of alpha-helix and beta-sheet was calculated. The test samples were treated on the exfoliated corneocyte, and the degree of change was checked.

RESULT

Arginine-fructose-glucose (AFG)-enriched extract of red ginseng was effective in changing the keratin structure and was superior to humectants such as glycerin. However, arginine, mono sugar were not effective, and the AFG form in which two sugars were bound to one amino acid could perform its function.

CONCLUSION

The present study suggests that AFG, when applied to cosmetics, is expected to improve skin texture in a different way from existing moisturizers represented by glycerin by reducing the alpha-helix structure of corneocyte keratin.

Valorisation of keratinous wastes: A sustainable approach towards a circular economy

The valorisation of keratinous wastes involves biorefining and recovering the bioresource materials from the keratinous wastes to produce value-added keratin-based bioproducts with a broad application, distribution, and marketability potential. Valorisation of keratinous wastes increases the value of the wastes and enables more sustainable waste management towards a circular bioeconomy. The abundance of keratinous wastes as feedstock from agro-industrial processing, wool processing, and grooming industry benefits biorefinery and extraction of keratins, which could be the optimal solution for developing an ecologically and economically sustainable keratin-based economy. The transition from the current traditional linear models that are deleterious to the environment, which end energy and resources recovery through disposal by incineration and landfilling, to a more sustainable and closed-loop recycling and recovery approach that minimises pollution, disposal challenges, loss of valuable bioresources and potential revenues are required. The paper provides an overview of keratinous wastes and the compositional keratin proteins with the descriptions of the various keratin extraction methods in biorefinery and functional material synthesis, including enzymatic and microbial hydrolysis, chemical hydrolysis (acid/alkaline hydrolysis, dissolution in ionic liquids, oxidative and sulphitolysis) and chemical-free hydrolysis (steam explosion and ultrasonic). The study describes various uses and applications of keratinases and keratin-based composites fabricated through various manufacturing processes such as lyophilisation, compression moulding, solvent casting, hydrogel fabrication, sponge formation, electrospinning, and 3D printing for value-added applications.

Sustainable Applications of Animal Waste Proteins

Currently, the growth of the global population leads to an increase in demand for agricultural products. Expanding the obtaining and consumption of food products results in a scale up in the amount of by-products formed, the development of processing methods for which is becoming an urgent task of modern science. Collagen and keratin make up a significant part of the animal origin protein waste, and the potential for their biotechnological application is almost inexhaustible. The specific fibrillar structure allows collagen and keratin to be in demand in bioengineering in various forms and formats, as a basis for obtaining hydrogels, nanoparticles and scaffolds for regenerative medicine and targeted drug delivery, films for the development of biodegradable packaging materials, etc. This review describes the variety of sustainable sources of collagen and keratin and the beneficial application multiformity of these proteins.

Biotechnology of functional proteins and peptides for hair cosmetic formulations

Cosmetics procedures and products combined with environmental insults and daily routines induce irreversible changes in hair. As result of damage, the hair loses some of its properties like strength, elasticity, and smoothness. Recent studies revealed the positive effects of protein-based cosmetics in providing protection to hair. Additionally, these cosmetic products have also shown a great ability to modify hair fibers. We review the effect of protein-based cosmetic formulations on hair properties like color, scent, strength, shape, and volume, highlighting the potential of keratin-based particles and keratin-fusion proteins. In the future, incorporating multifunctional proteins and peptides in the development of alternative hair formulations will result in advanced, sustainable, ecofriendly cosmetic products with a great impact on the cosmetic industry.

Berberine-Loaded Thiolated Pluronic F127 Polymeric Micelles for Improving Skin Permeation and Retention

Background

Challenges associated with local antibacterial and anti-inflammatory drugs include low penetration and retention of drugs at the expected action site. Additionally, improving these challenges allows for the prevention of side effects that are caused by drug absorption into the systemic circulation and helps to safely treat local skin diseases.

Methods

In the current study, we successfully prepared a thiolated pluronic F127 polymer micelles (BTFM), which binds to keratin through a disulphide bond, to produce skin retention. In addition, the small particle size of polymer micelles promotes the penetration of carriers into the skin. The current study was divided into two experiments: an in vitro experiment; an in vivo experiment that involved the penetration of the micelle-loaded drugs into the skin of rats, the skin irritation test and the anti-inflammatory activity of the drug-loaded micelles on dimethyl benzene-induced ear edema in mice.

Results

Results from our in vitro transdermal experiment revealed that the amount of drug absorbed through the skin was decreased after the drug was loaded in the BTFM. Further, results from the vivo study, which used fluorescence microscopy to identify the location of the BTFM after penetration, revealed that there was strong fluorescence in the epidermis layer, but there was no strong fluorescence in the deep skin layer. In addition, the BTFM had a very good safety profile with no potentially hazardous skin irritation and transdermal administration of BTFM could significantly suppress ear edema induced by dimethyl benzene. Therefore, these findings indicated that BTFM reduced the amount of drug that entered the systemic circulation. Our results also demonstrated that the BTFM had a certain affinity for keratin.

Conclusion

Our experimental results suggest that the BTFM may be an effective drug carrier for local skin therapy with good safety profile.