Insights on in vitro models for safety and toxicity assessment of cosmetic ingredients

Marine cosmetics and the blue bioeconomy: From sourcing to success stories

As the global population continues to grow, so does the demand for longer, healthier lives and environmentally responsible choices. Consumers are increasingly drawn to naturally sourced products with proven health and wellbeing benefits. The marine environment presents a promising yet underexplored resource for the cosmetics industry, offering bioactive compounds with the potential for safe and biocompatible ingredients. This manuscript provides a comprehensive overview of the potential of marine organisms for cosmetics production, highlighting marine-derived compounds and their applications in skin/hair/oral-care products, cosmeceuticals and more. It also lays down critical safety considerations and addresses the methodologies for sourcing marine compounds, including harvesting, the biorefinery concept, use of systems biology for enhanced product development, and the relevant regulatory landscape. The review is enriched by three case studies: design of macroalgal skincare products in Iceland, establishment of a microalgal cosmetics spin-off in Italy, and the utilization of marine proteins for cosmeceutical applications.

Full-Thickness Perfused Skin-on-a-Chip with In Vivo-Like Drug Response for Drug and Cosmetics Testing

In this study, we present a novel 3D perfused skin-on-a-chip model fabricated using micro-precision 3D printing, which offers a streamlined and reproducible approach for incorporating perfusion. Perfused skin models are well-regarded for their advantages, such as improved nutrient supply, enhanced barrier function, and prolonged tissue viability. However, current models often require complex setups, such as self-assembled endothelial cells or sacrificial rods, which are prone to variability and time-consuming. Our model uses projection micro-stereolithography 3D printing to create precise microcapillary-like channels using a biocompatible resin, overcoming the drug-absorbing properties of PDMS. A customized chip holder allows for the simultaneous culture of six perfused chips, enabling high-throughput testing. The engineered skin-on-a-chip features distinct dermis and epidermis layers, confirmed via H&E staining and immunostaining. To evaluate drug screening capabilities, inflammation was induced using TNF-α and treated with dexamethasone, with cytokine levels compared to 2D cultures and human skin biopsies. Our 3D model exhibited drug response trends similar to human skin, while showing reduced cytotoxicity over time compared to biopsies. This perfused skin-on-a-chip provides a reliable, physiologically relevant alternative for drug and cosmetics screening, simplifying perfusion setup while preserving key benefits.

Extracts from Wheat, Maize, and Sunflower Waste as Natural Raw Materials for Cosmetics: Value-Added Products Reaching Sustainability Goals

Agricultural waste is underutilized, and sometimes burning them has a negative impact on the environment and human health. This research investigates the untapped potential of extracts from maize, wheat and sunflower waste as natural materials for cutaneous, specifically, cosmetic application. The possibility of incorporating lipid and ethanol extracts from wheat, maize, and sunflower into creams was investigated together with their potential contribution to the structural and functional properties of the topical formulations. Results of the physicochemical characterization show that investigated extracts can be successfully incorporated into creams with satisfactory stability. All extracts showed a desirable safety profile and good antimicrobial activity against various microorganisms. Lipid extracts have proven to be promising structural ingredients of the oil phase, contributing to the spreadability, occlusivity, and emollient effect. Ethanol extracts influenced washability and stickiness of the formulation and could be considered as prospective ingredients in self-preserving formulations. The extracts affected the sensory properties of the creams, mainly the smell and color. These results suggest that the extracts from wheat, maize, and sunflower waste could be used as multifunctional natural ingredients for cosmetic formulations which can replace less sustainable raw materials. This also represents a valorization of waste and is in line with broader sustainability goals.

Sustainable Primary Cell Banking for Topical Compound Cytotoxicity Assays: Protocol Validation on Novel Biocides and Antifungals for Optimized Burn Wound Care

Thorough biological safety testing of topical therapeutic compounds and antimicrobials is a critical prerequisite for appropriate cutaneous wound care. Increasing pathogen resistance rates to traditional antibiotics and antifungals are driving the development and registration of novel chemical entities. Although they are notably useful for animal testing reduction, the gold standard in vitro cytotoxicity assays in continuous cell lines (HaCaT keratinocytes, 3T3 fibroblasts) may be discussed from a translational relevance standpoint. The aim of this study was thus to establish and validate a sustainable primary cell banking model with a view to performing optimized in vitro cytotoxicity assay development. Primary dermal fibroblasts and adipose-derived stem cell (ASC) types were established from four infant polydactyly sources. A multi-tiered primary cell banking model was then applied to prepare highly sustainable and standardized dermal fibroblast and ASC working cell banks (WCBs), potentially allowing for millions of biological assays to be performed. The obtained cellular materials were then validated for use in cytotoxicity assays through in vitro biosafety testing of topical antiseptics (chlorhexidine, hypochlorous acid) and an antifungal compound (AR-12) of interest for optimized burn wound care. The experimental results confirmed that IC50 values were comparable between cytotoxicity assays, which were performed with cell lines and with primary cells. The results also showed that hypochlorous acid (HOCl) displayed an enhanced toxicological profile as compared to the gold standard chlorhexidine (CLX). Generally, this study demonstrated that highly sustainable primary cell sources may be established and applied for consistent topical compound biological safety assessments with enhanced translational relevance. Overall, the study underscored the safety-oriented interest of functionally benchmarking the products that are applied on burn patient wounds for the global enhancement of burn care quality.

Circular economyeast: Saccharomyces cerevisiae as a sustainable source of glucans and its safety for skincare application

Glucans, a polysaccharide naturally present in the yeast cell wall that can be obtained from side streams generated during the fermentation process, have gained increasing attention for their potential as a skin ingredient. Therefore, this study focused on the extraction method to isolate and purify water-insoluble glucans from two different Saccharomyces cerevisiae strains: an engineered strain obtained from spent yeast in an industrial fermentation process and a wild strain produced through lab-scale fermentation. Two water-insoluble extracts with a high glucose content (> 90 %) were achieved and further subjected to a chemical modification using carboxymethylation to improve their water solubility. All the glucans' extracts, water-insoluble and carboxymethylated, were structurally and chemically characterized, showing almost no differences between both yeast-type strains. To ensure their safety for skin application, a broad safety assessment was undertaken, and no cytotoxic effect, immunomodulatory capacity (IL-6 and IL-8 regulation), genotoxicity, skin sensitization, and impact on the skin microbiota were observed. These findings highlight the potential of glucans derived from spent yeast as a sustainable and safe ingredient for cosmetic and skincare formulations, contributing to the sustainability and circular economy.

Biofabrication of biomimetic undulating microtopography at the dermal-epidermal junction and its effects on the growth and differentiation of epidermal cells

The undulating microtopography located at the junction of the dermis and epidermis of the native skin is called rete ridges (RRs), which plays an important role in enhancing keratinocyte function, improving skin structure and stability, and providing three-dimensional (3D) microenvironment for skin cells. Despite some progress in recent years, most currently designed and manufactured tissue-engineered skin models still cannot replicate the RRs, resulting in a lack of biological signals in the manufactured skin models. In this study, a composite manufacturing method including electrospinning, 3D printing, and functional coating was developed to produce the epidermal models with RRs. Polycaprolactone (PCL) nanofibers were firstly electrospun to mimic the extracellular matrix environment and be responsible for cell attachment. PCL microfibers were then printed onto top of the PCL nanofibers layer by 3D printing to quickly prepare undulating microtopography and finally the entire structures were dip-coated with gelatin hydrogel to form a functional coating layer. The morphology, chemical composition, and structural properties of the fabricated models were studied. The results proved that the multi-process composite fabricated models were suitable for skin tissue engineering. Live and dead staining, cell counting kit-8 (CCK-8) as well as histology (haematoxylin and eosin (HE) methodology) and immunofluorescence (primary and secondary antibodies combination assay) were used to investigate the viability, metabolic activity, and differentiation of skin cells forin vitroculturing.In vitroresults showed that each model had high cell viability, good proliferation, and the expression of differentiation marker. It was worth noting that the sizes of the RRs affected the cell growth status of the epidermal models. In addition, the unique undulation characteristics of the epidermal-dermal junction can be reproduced in the developed epidermal models. Overall, thesein vitrohuman epidermal models can provide valuable reference for skin transplantation, screening and safety evaluation of drugs and cosmetics.

A compartment model to predict in vitro finite dose absorption of chemicals by human skin

Dermal uptake is an important and complex exposure route for a wide range of chemicals. Dermal exposure can occur due to occupational settings, pharmaceutical applications, environmental contamination, or consumer product use. The large range of both chemicals and scenarios of interest makes it difficult to perform generalizable experiments, creating a need for a generic model to simulate various scenarios. In this study, a model consisting of a series of four well-mixed compartments, representing the source solution (vehicle), stratum corneum, viable tissue, and receptor fluid, was developed for predicting dermal absorption. The model considers experimental conditions including small applied doses as well as evaporation of the vehicle and chemical. To evaluate the model assumptions, we compare model predictions for a set of 26 chemicals to finite dose in-vitro experiments from a single laboratory using steady-state permeability coefficient and equilibrium partition coefficient data derived from in-vitro experiments of infinite dose exposures to these same chemicals from a different laboratory. We find that the model accurately predicts, to within an order of magnitude, total absorption after 24 h for 19 of these chemicals. In combination with key information on experimental conditions, the model is generalizable and can advance efficient assessment of dermal exposure for chemical risk assessment.

Marine versus Non-Marine Bacterial Exopolysaccharides and Their Skincare Applications

Bacteria are well-known to synthesize high molecular weight polysaccharides excreted in extracellular domain, which constitute their protective microenvironment. Several bacterial exopolysaccharides (EPS) are commercially available for skincare applications in cosmetic products due to their unique structural features, conferring valuable biological and/or textural properties. This review aims to give an overview of bacterial EPS, an important group of macromolecules used in cosmetics as actives and functional ingredients. For this purpose, the main chemical characteristics of EPS are firstly described, followed by the basics of the development of cosmetic ingredients. Then, a focus on EPS production, including upstream and downstream processes, is provided. The diversity of EPS used in the cosmetic industry, and more specifically of marine-derived EPS is highlighted. Marine bacteria isolated from extreme environments are known to produce EPS. However, their production processes are highly challenging due to high or low temperatures; yield must be improved to reach economically viable ingredients. The biological properties of marine-derived EPS are then reviewed, resulting in the highlight of the challenges in this field.

Design and evaluation of a skin-on-a-chip pumpless microfluidic device

The development of microfluidic culture technology facilitates the progress of study of cell and tissue biology. This technology expands the understanding of pathological and physiological changes. A skin chip, as in vitro model, consisting of normal skin tissue with epidermis and dermis layer (full thickness) was developed. Polydimethylsiloxane microchannels with a fed-batched controlled perfusion feeding system were used to create a full-thick ex-vivo human skin on-chip model. The design of a novel skin-on-a-chip model was reported, in which the microchannel structures mimic the architecture of the realistic vascular network as nutrients transporter to the skin layers. Viabilities of full-thick skin samples cultured on the microbioreactor and traditional tissue culture plate revealed that a precise controlled condition provided by the microfluidic enhanced tissue viability at least for seven days. Several advantages in skin sample features under micro-scale-controlled conditions were found such as skin mechanical strength, water adsorption, skin morphology, gene expression, and biopsy longevity. This model can provide an in vitro environment for localizing drug delivery and transdermal drug diffusion studies. The skin on the chip can be a valuable in vitro model for representing the interaction between drugs and skin tissue and a realistic platform for evaluating skin reaction to pharmaceutical materials and cosmetic products.

Advanced Organotypic In Vitro Model Systems for Host-Microbial Coculture

In vitro model systems have been advanced to recapitulate important physiological features of the target organ in vivo more closely than the conventional cell line cultures on a petri dish. The advanced organotypic model systems can be used as a complementary or alternative tool for various testing and screening. Numerous data from germ-free animal studies and genome sequencings of clinical samples indicate that human microbiota is an essential part of the human body, but current in vitro model systems rarely include them, which can be one of the reasons for the discrepancy in the tissue phenotypes and outcome of therapeutic intervention between in vivo and in vitro tissues. A coculture model system with appropriate microbes and host cells may have great potential to bridge the gap between the in vitro model and the in vivo counterpart. However, successfully integrating two species in one system introduces new variables to consider and poses new challenges to overcome. This review aims to provide perspectives on the important factors that should be considered for developing organotypic bacterial coculture models. Recent advances in various organotypic bacterial coculture models are highlighted. Finally, challenges and opportunities in developing organotypic microbial coculture models are also discussed.

EU’s next generation risk assessment: hurdles and opportunities for new approach methodologies

The EU’s decision to ban animal testing for toxicity testing, has positively influenced the pace of developing New Approach Methodologies (NAMs). This development also supports replacing animal methods in other forms of risk assessment (RA), such as for oral-toxicity testing. This study aims to identify the hurdles and opportunities for validation and implementation of NAMs in the current EU’s chemical RA. Through conducting semi-structured interviews with 14 stakeholders, experiences and perspectives about the validation and implementation of NAMs in RA for orally ingested chemicals were analyzed. Stakeholders considered the use of NAMs for RA processes both a cultural and generational issue. Both were perceived as hurdles for reaching the next generation RA approach. The differing views on NAMs originated from experience and stakeholder positions, but communication and collaboration on developing future RA approaches could support overcoming this skepticism. Irrespectively of their background, all interviewees were generally optimistic that NAMs will support the development of more accurate and sustainable RA. This research highlights the need for the EU to adjust legislation and guidance documents to shift in testing requirements from the traditional overexposure approach to more predictive, mechanistic testing in RA, which will take time. This study, however, shows that—when all stakeholders engage in communication and confidence building—NAMs can already play an important role in reducing and refining animal testing.

Proof-of-Concept Organ-on-Chip Study: Topical Cinnamaldehyde Exposure of Reconstructed Human Skin with Integrated Neopapillae Cultured under Dynamic Flow

Pharmaceutical and personal care industries require human representative models for testing to ensure the safety of their products. A major route of penetration into our body after substance exposure is via the skin. Our aim was to generate robust culture conditions for a next generation human skin-on-chip model containing neopapillae and to establish proof-of-concept testing with the sensitizer, cinnamaldehyde. Reconstructed human skin consisting of a stratified and differentiated epidermis on a fibroblast populated hydrogel containing neopapillae spheroids (RhS-NP), were cultured air-exposed and under dynamic flow for 10 days. The robustness of three independent experiments, each with up to 21 intra-experiment replicates, was investigated. The epidermis was seen to invaginate into the hydrogel towards the neopapille spheroids. Daily measurements of lactate dehydrogenase (LDH) and glucose levels within the culture medium demonstrated high viability and stable metabolic activity throughout the culture period in all three independent experiments and in the replicates within an experiment. Topical cinnamaldehyde exposure to RhS-NP resulted in dose-dependent cytotoxicity (increased LDH release) and elevated cytokine secretion of contact sensitizer specific IL-18, pro-inflammatory IL-1β, inflammatory IL-23 and IFN-γ, as well as anti-inflammatory IL-10 and IL-12p70. This study demonstrates the robustness and feasibility of complex next generation skin models for investigating skin immunotoxicity.

Strategies for vascularized skin models in vitro

As the largest organ of the human body, the skin has a complex multi-layered structure. The composition of the skin includes cells, extracellular matrix (ECM), vascular networks, and other appendages. Because of the shortage of donor sites, skin substitutes are of great significance in the field of skin tissue repair. Moreover, skin models for disease research, drug screening, and cosmetic testing fall far short of the demand. Skin tissue engineering has made remarkable progress in developing skin models over the years. However, there are still several problems to be resolved. One of the crucial aspects is the lack of vascular systems for nutrient transport and waste disposal. Here, we will focus on the discussion and analysis of advanced manufacturing strategies for prevascularized skin, such as a scaffold-based method, cell coating technology, cell sheet engineering, skin-on-a-chip, and three-dimensional (3D) bioprinting. These key challenges, which restrict the prevascularized skin and provide perspectives on future directions will also be highlighted.

Alternative in vitro models used in the main safety tests of cosmetic products and new challenges

BACKGROUND

Guided by ethical considerations and regulatory requirements such as the 7th Amendment to the European Cosmetics Directive N° 1223/2009, the cosmetic industry has developed and evaluated alternative test strategies such as in vitro assays, in silico approaches for toxicological endpoints and efficacy of cosmetic products and cosmetics ingredients. In consequence, the European Centre for the Validation of Alternative Methods (ECVAM) has proposed a list of validated cell-based in vitro models for predicting the safety and toxicity of cosmetic ingredients. These models have been demonstrated as valuable and effective tools to overcome the limitations of animal in vivo studies. For example, 3D human skin equivalent models are used to evaluate skin irritation potential; and excised human skin is used as the gold standard for the evaluation of dermal absorption.

OBJECTIVE

This review presents, in relation to the regulatory requirements, the main alternative in vitro models used in the safety tests of cosmetic products, focusing on skin sensitization, skin corrosion, skin irritation and skin absorption, with advantages and limitations of each model. Recent innovative 3D cell technologies such as Organ-on-a-Chip (OoC) models that can bring significant improvements for toxicology and efficacy testing are also presented.

CONCLUSION

The development of OoC technology is promising for assessing the toxicity of substances contained in cosmetics, particularly for repeated dose toxicity, for which no alternative in vitro methods are currently available. Nevertheless, aside from the challenges, the technology needs to be validated and accepted by regulatory organizations as an effective method. Collaboration between researchers, regulatory organizations and industry would be required to achieve this validation.

-Omics potential of in vitro skin models for radiation exposure

There is a growing need to uncover biomarkers of ionizing radiation exposure that leads to a better understanding of how exposures take place, including dose type, rate, and time since exposure. As one of the first organs to be exposed to external sources of ionizing radiation, skin is uniquely positioned in terms of model systems for radiation exposure study. The simultaneous evolution of both MS-based -omics studies, as well as in vitro 3D skin models, has created the ability to develop a far more holistic understanding of how ionizing radiation affects the many interconnected biomolecular processes that occur in human skin. However, there are a limited number of studies describing the biomolecular consequences of low-dose ionizing radiation to the skin. This review will seek to explore the current state-of-the-art technology in terms of in vitro 3D skin models, as well as track the trajectory of MS-based -omics techniques and their application to ionizing radiation research, specifically, the search for biomarkers within the low-dose range.

Simple and robust 3D bioprinting of full-thickness human skin tissue

Artificial skins have been used as skin substitutes for wound healing in the clinic, and as in vitro models for safety assessment in cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries. The three-dimensional (3D) bioprinting technique provides a promising strategy in the fabrication of artificial skins. Despite the technological advances, many challenges remain to be conquered, such as the complicated preparation conditions for bio-printed skin and the unavailability of stability and robustness of skin bioprinting. Here, we formulated a novel bio-ink composed of gelatin, sodium alginate and fibrinogen. By optimizing the ratio of components in the bio-ink, the design of the 3D model and the printing conditions, a fibroblasts-containing dermal layer construct was firstly fabricated, on the top of which laminin and keratinocytes were sequentially placed. Through air-liquid interface (ALI) culture by virtue of sterile wire mesh, a full-thickness skin tissue was thus prepared. HE and immunofluorescence staining showed that the bio-printed skin was not only morphologically representative of the human skin, but also expressed the specific markers related to epidermal differentiation and stratum corneum formation. The presented easy and robust preparation of full-thickness skin constructs provides a powerful tool for the establishment of artificial skins, holding critical academic significance and application value.

Read-across approaches: current applications and regulatory acceptance in Korea, Japan, and China

The aim of this paper was to investigate the current status of read-across approaches in the Republic of Korea, Japan, and China in terms of applications and regulatory acceptance. In the Republic of Korea, over the last 6 years, approximately 8% of safety data records used for chemical registrations were based upon read-across, and a guideline published on the use of read-across results in 2017. In Japan, read-across is generally accepted for screening hazard classification of toxicological endpoints according to the Chemical Substances Control Law (CSCL). In China, read-across data, along with data from other animal alternatives are accepted as a data source for chemical registrations, but could be only considered when testing is not technically feasible. At present, read-across is not widely used for chemical registrations and regulatory acceptance of read-across may differ among countries in Asia. With consideration of the advantages and limitations of read-across, it is expected that read-across may soon gradually be employed in Asian countries. Thus, regulatory agencies need to prepare for this progression.

In Vitro Strategies to Vascularize 3D Physiologically Relevant Models

Vascularization of 3D models represents a major challenge of tissue engineering and a key prerequisite for their clinical and industrial application. The use of prevascularized models built from dedicated materials could solve some of the actual limitations, such as suboptimal integration of the bioconstructs within the host tissue, and would provide more in vivo-like perfusable tissue and organ-specific platforms. In the last decade, the fabrication of vascularized physiologically relevant 3D constructs has been attempted by numerous tissue engineering strategies, which are classified here in microfluidic technology, 3D coculture models, namely, spheroids and organoids, and biofabrication. In this review, the recent advancements in prevascularization techniques and the increasing use of natural and synthetic materials to build physiological organ-specific models are discussed. Current drawbacks of each technology, future perspectives, and translation of vascularized tissue constructs toward clinics, pharmaceutical field, and industry are also presented. By combining complementary strategies, these models are envisioned to be successfully used for regenerative medicine and drug development in a near future.

Antioxidant, Anti-Inflammatory, and Anti-Aging Potential of a Kalmia angustifolia Extract and Identification of Some Major Compounds

Skin aging is the most visible element of the aging process, giving rise to a major concern for many people. Plants from the Ericaceae family generally have antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, making them potential anti-aging active ingredients. This study aimed to evaluate the safety and anti-aging efficacy of a Kalmia angustifolia extract using reconstructed skin substitutes. The safety evaluation was performed using a 3-(4,5-dimethylthiazolyl-2)-2,5-diphenyltetrazolium bromide (MTT) assay, while the efficacy was determined by assessing antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity and analyzing skin substitutes reconstructed according to the self-assembly method by histology and immunofluorescence staining (elastin, collagen-1, collagen-3, aquaporin-3). The cell viability assay established the safety of the extract at a concentration up to 200 μg/mL. The Oxygen Radical Absorbance Capacity (ORAC) assay and a cell-based assay using 2',7'-dichlorofluorescein-diacetate (DCFH-DA) revealed a strong antioxidant activity with an ORAC value of 16 µmol Trolox Equivalent/mg and a half-maximal inhibitory concentration (IC50) of 0.37 ± 0.02 μg/mL, while an interesting anti-inflammatory activity was found in the inhibition of NO production, with an inhibition percentage of NO production of 49 ± 2% at 80 µg/mL. The isolation and characterization of the extract allowed the identification of compounds that could be responsible for these biological activities, with two of them being identified for the first time in K. angustifolia: avicularin and epicatechin-(2β-O-7, 4β-6)-ent-epicatechin. Histological analyses of skin substitutes treated with the extract showed an increase in dermal thickness compared with the controls. K. angustifolia extract enhanced the expression of elastin and collagen-1, which are usually decreased with skin aging. These results suggest that K. angustifolia has promising antioxidant efficacy and anti-aging potential.

Skin-on-a-chip models: General overview and future perspectives

Over the last few years, several advances have been made toward the development and production of in vitro human skin models for the analysis and testing of cosmetic and pharmaceutical products. However, these skin models are cultured under static conditions that make them unable to accurately represent normal human physiology. Recent interest has focused on the generation of in vitro 3D vascularized skin models with dynamic perfusion and microfluidic devices known as skin-on-a-chip. These platforms have been widely described in the literature as good candidates for tissue modeling, as they enable a more physiological transport of nutrients and permit a high-throughput and less expensive evaluation of drug candidates in terms of toxicity, efficacy, and delivery. In this Perspective, recent advances in these novel platforms for the generation of human skin models under dynamic conditions for in vitro testing are reported. Advances in vascularized human skin equivalents (HSEs), transferred skin-on-a-chip (introduction of a skin biopsy or a HSE in the chip), and in situ skin-on-a-chip (generation of the skin model directly in the chip) are critically reviewed, and currently used methods for the introduction of skin cells in the microfluidic chips are discussed. An outlook on current applications and future directions in this field of research are also presented.

Beyond dermal exposure: The respiratory tract as a target organ in hazard assessments of cosmetic ingredients

Dermal contact is the main route of exposure for most cosmetics; however, inhalation exposure could be significant for some formulations (e.g., aerosols, powders). Current cosmetic regulations do not require specific tests addressing respiratory irritation and sensitisation, and despite the prohibition of animal testing for cosmetics, no alternative methods have been validated to assess these endpoints to date. Inhalation hazard is mainly determined based on existing human and animal evidence, read-across, and extrapolation of data from different target organs or tissues, such as the skin. However, because of mechanistic differences, effects on the skin cannot predict effects on the respiratory tract, which indicates a substantial need for the development of new approach methodologies addressing respiratory endpoints for inhalable chemicals in general. Cosmetics might present a particularly significant need for risk assessments of inhalation exposure to provide a more accurate toxicological evaluation and ensure consumer safety. This review describes the differences in the mechanisms of irritation and sensitisation between the skin and the respiratory tract, the progress that has already been made, and what still needs to be done to fill the gap in the inhalation risk assessment of cosmetic ingredients.

Design of In Vitro Hair Follicles for Different Applications in the Treatment of Alopecia-A Review

The hair research field has seen great improvement in recent decades, with in vitro hair follicle (HF) models being extensively developed. However, due to the cellular complexity and number of various molecular interactions that must be coordinated, a fully functional in vitro model of HFs remains elusive. The most common bioengineering approach to grow HFs in vitro is to manipulate their features on cellular and molecular levels, with dermal papilla cells being the main focus. In this study, we focus on providing a better understanding of HFs in general and how they behave in vitro. The first part of the review presents skin morphology with an emphasis on HFs and hair loss. The remainder of the paper evaluates cells, materials, and methods of in vitro growth of HFs. Lastly, in vitro models and assays for evaluating the effects of active compounds on alopecia and hair growth are presented, with the final emphasis on applications of in vitro HFs in hair transplantation. Since the growth of in vitro HFs is a complicated procedure, there is still a great number of unanswered questions aimed at understanding the long-term cycling of HFs without losing inductivity. Incorporating other regions of HFs that lead to the successful formation of different hair classes remains a difficult challenge.

Stem Cells for Next Level Toxicity Testing in the 21st Century

The call for a paradigm change in toxicology from the United States National Research Council in 2007 initiates awareness for the invention and use of human-relevant alternative methods for toxicological hazard assessment. Simple 2D in vitro systems may serve as first screening tools, however, recent developments infer the need for more complex, multicellular organotypic models, which are superior in mimicking the complexity of human organs. In this review article most critical organs for toxicity assessment, i.e., skin, brain, thyroid system, lung, heart, liver, kidney, and intestine are discussed with regards to their functions in health and disease. Embracing the manifold modes-of-action how xenobiotic compounds can interfere with physiological organ functions and cause toxicity, the need for translation of such multifaceted organ features into the dish seems obvious. Currently used in vitro methods for toxicological applications and ongoing developments not yet arrived in toxicity testing are discussed, especially highlighting the potential of models based on embryonic stem cells and induced pluripotent stem cells of human origin. Finally, the application of innovative technologies like organs-on-a-chip and genome editing point toward a toxicological paradigm change moves into action.

Synthetic and Bio-Derived Surfactants Versus Microbial Biosurfactants in the Cosmetic Industry: An Overview

This article includes an updated review of the classification, uses and side effects of surfactants for their application in the cosmetic, personal care and pharmaceutical industries. Based on their origin and composition, surfactants can be divided into three different categories: (i) synthetic surfactants; (ii) bio-based surfactants; and (iii) microbial biosurfactants. The first group is the most widespread and cost-effective. It is composed of surfactants, which are synthetically produced, using non-renewable sources, with a final structure that is different from the natural components of living cells. The second category comprises surfactants of intermediate biocompatibility, usually produced by chemical synthesis but integrating fats, sugars or amino acids obtained from renewable sources into their structure. Finally, the third group of surfactants, designated as microbial biosurfactants, are considered the most biocompatible and eco-friendly, as they are produced by living cells, mostly bacteria and yeasts, without the intermediation of organic synthesis. Based on the information included in this review it would be interesting for cosmetic, personal care and pharmaceutical industries to consider microbial biosurfactants as a group apart from surfactants, needing specific regulations, as they are less toxic and more biocompatible than chemical surfactants having formulations that are more biocompatible and greener.

Integrated approaches to testing and assessment as a tool for the hazard assessment and risk characterization of cosmetic preservatives

The safety assessment of cosmetic products is based on the safety of the ingredients, which requires information on chemical structures, toxicological profiles, and exposure data. Approximately 6% of the population is sensitized to cosmetic ingredients, especially preservatives and fragrances. In this context, the aim of this study was to perform a hazard assessment and risk characterization of benzalkonium chloride (BAC), benzyl alcohol (BA), caprylyl glycol (CG), ethylhexylglycerin (EG), chlorphenesin (CP), dehydroacetic acid (DHA), sodium dehydroacetate (SDH), iodopropynyl butylcarbamate (IPBC), methylchloroisothiazolinone and methylisothiazolinone (MCI/MIT), methylisothiazolinone (MIT), phenoxyethanol (PE), potassium sorbate (PS), and sodium benzoate (SB). Considering the integrated approaches to testing and assessment (IATA) and weight of evidence (WoE) as a decision tree, based on published safety reports. The hazard assessment was composed of a toxicological matrix correlating the toxicity level, defined as low (L), moderate (M), or high (H) and local or systemic exposure, considering the endpoints of skin sensitization, skin irritation, eye irritation, phototoxicity, acute oral toxicity, carcinogenicity, mutagenicity/genotoxicity, and endocrine activity. In a risk assessment approach, most preservatives had a margin of safety (MoS) above 100, except for DHA, SDH, and EG, considering the worst-case scenario (100% dermal absorption). However, isolated data do not set up a safety assessment. It is necessary to carry out a rational risk characterization considering hazard and exposure assessment to estimate the level of risk of an adverse health outcome, based on the concentration in a product, frequency of use, type of product, route of exposure, body surface location, and target population.

An inadvertent issue of human retina exposure to endocrine disrupting chemicals: A safety assessment

Endocrine disrupting chemicals (EDCs) are a group of chemical compounds that present a considerable public health problem due to their pervasiveness and associations with chronic diseases. EDCs can interrupt the endocrine system and interfere with hormone homeostasis, leading to abnormalities in human physiology. Much attention has been focused on the adverse effects EDCs have on the reproductive system, neurogenesis, neuroendocrine system, and thyroid dysfunction. The eye is usually directly exposed to the surrounding environment; however, the influences of EDCs on the eye have received comparatively little attention. Ocular diseases, such as ocular surface diseases and retinal diseases, have been implicated in hormone deficiency or excess. Epidemiologic studies have shown that EDC exposure not only causes ocular surface disorders, such as dry eye, but also associates with visual deficits and retinopathy. EDCs can pass through the human blood-retinal barrier and enter the neural retina, and can then accumulate in the retina. The retina is an embryologic extension of the central nervous system, and is extremely sensitive and vulnerable to EDCs that could be passed across the placenta during critical periods of retinal development. Subtle alterations in the retinal development process usually result in profound immediate, long-term, and delayed effects late in life. This review, based on extensive literature survey, briefly summarizes the current knowledge about the impact of representative manufactured EDCs on retinal toxicity, including retinal structure alterations and dysfunction. We also highlight the potential mechanism of action of EDCs on the retina, and the predictive retinal models of EDC exposure.

Immunocompetent Human Intestinal Models in Preclinical Drug Development

The intestinal epithelial barrier, together with the microbiome and local immune system, is a critical component that maintains intestinal homeostasis. Dysfunction may lead to chronic inflammation, as observed in inflammatory bowel diseases. Animal models have historically been used in preclinical research to identify and validate new drug targets in intestinal inflammatory diseases. Yet, limitations about their biological relevance to humans and advances in tissue engineering have forced the development of more complex three-dimensional reconstructed intestinal epithelium. By introducing immune and commensal microbial cells, these models more accurately mimic the gut's physiology and the pathophysiological changes occurring in vivo in the inflamed intestine. Specific advantages and limitations of two-dimensional (2D) and three-dimensional (3D) intestinal models such as coculture systems, organoids, and microfluidic devices to study inflammatory and immune-related responses are highlighted. While current cell culture models lack the cellular and molecular complexity observed in vivo, the emphasis is put on how these models can be used to improve preclinical drug development for inflammatory diseases of the intestine.

Toxicity Evaluation of TiO2 Nanoparticles on the 3D Skin Model: A Systematic Review

Titanium dioxide nanoparticles (TiO2 NPs) are regularly used in sunscreens because of their photoprotective capacity. The advantage of using TiO2 on the nanometer scale is due to its transparency and better UV blocking efficiency. Due to the greater surface area/volume ratio, NPs become more (bio)-reactive giving rise to concerns about their potential toxicity. To evaluate the irritation and corrosion of cosmetics, 3D skin models have been used as an alternative method to animal experimentation. However, it is not known if this model is appropriate to study skin irritation, corrosion and phototoxicity of nanomaterials such as TiO2 NPs. This systematic review (SR) proposed the following question: Can the toxicity of TiO2 nanoparticles be evaluated in a 3D skin model? This SR was conducted according to the Preliminary Report on Systematic Review and Meta-Analysis (PRISMA). The protocol was registered in CAMARADES and the ToxRTool evaluation was performed in order to increase the quality and transparency of this search. In this SR, 7 articles were selected, and it was concluded that the 3D skin model has shown to be promising to evaluate the toxicity of TiO2 NPs. However, most studies have used biological assays that have already been described as interfering with these NPs, demonstrating that misinterpretations can be obtained. This review will focus in the possible efforts that should be done in order to avoid interference of NPs with biological assays applied in 3D in vitro culture.

Skin irritation potential of cosmetic preservatives: An exposure-relevant study

BACKGROUND

Preservatives represent one of the main causes of skin irritation and contact allergies.

AIMS

To comprehensively evaluate the skin irritation potential of phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, propylparaben, imidazolidinyl urea, and DMDM hydantoin under regulatory acceptable concentrations.

METHODS

A patch test and repeated open application test (ROAT) were applied to evaluate skin irritation in vivo. In vitro alternative methods consisting of the keratinocyte cytotoxicity assay, red blood cell (RBC) test, and hen's egg test-chorioallantoic membrane (HET-CAM) were performed to elucidate the mechanism of preservative-induced irritation responses.

RESULTS

The patch test showed that all test substances showed a weak erythema response. Propylparaben had the highest occlusive irritancy potential in the patch test, owing to damage to the cell membrane. The two formaldehyde releasers showed noticeable skin irritation potential in the ROAT through their cytotoxicity to keratinocytes, while a visible response was observed after applying phenoxyethanol and the two parabens. No filtration was noticed in the in vivo tests, which might be attributed to the failure of subcutaneous vessel alteration by the preservatives.

CONCLUSIONS

Commonly used cosmetic preservatives have minor skin irritation potential with mild erythema reaction under practical use, especially formaldehyde releasers and propylparaben.

Testing the Effectiveness of Curcuma longa Leaf Extract on a Skin Equivalent Using a Pumpless Skin-on-a-Chip Model

The in vitro tests in current research employ simple culture methods that fail to mimic the real human tissue. In this study, we report drug testing with a ‘pumpless skin-on-a-chip’ that mimics the structural and functional responses of human skin. This model is a skin equivalent constituting two layers of the skin, dermis and epidermis, developed using human primary fibroblasts and keratinocytes. Using the gravity flow device system, the medium was rotated at an angle of 15 degrees on both sides so as to circulate through the pumpless skin-on-a-chip microfluidic channel. This pumpless skin-on-a-chip is composed of upper and lower chips, and is manufactured using porous membranes so that medium can be diffused and supplied to the skin equivalent. Drug testing was performed using Curcuma longa leaf extract (CLLE), a natural product cosmetic ingredient, to evaluate the usefulness of the chip and the efficacy of the cosmetic ingredient. It was found that the skin barrier function of the skin epidermis layer is enhanced to exhibit antiaging effects. This result indicates that the pumpless skin-on-a-chip model can be potentially used not only in the cosmetics and pharmaceutical industries but also in clinical applications as an alternative to animal studies.

Current Strategies and Future Perspectives of Skin-on-a-Chip Platforms: Innovations, Technical Challenges and Commercial Outlook

The skin is the largest and most exposed organ in the human body. Not only it is involved in numerous biological processes essential for life but also it represents a significant endpoint for the application of pharmaceuticals. The area of in vitro skin tissue engineering has been progressing extensively in recent years. Advanced in vitro human skin models strongly impact the discovery of new drugs thanks to the enhanced screening efficiency and reliability. Nowadays, animal models are largely employed at the preclinical stage of new pharmaceutical compounds development for both risk assessment evaluation and pharmacokinetic studies. On the other hand, animal models often insufficiently foresee the human reaction due to the variations in skin immunity and physiology. Skin-on-chips devices offer innovative and state-of-the-art platforms essential to overcome these limitations. In the present review, we focus on the contribution of skin-on-chip platforms in fundamental research and applied medical research. In addition, we also highlighted the technical and practical difficulties that must be overcome to enhance skin-on-chip platforms, e.g. embedding electrical measurements, for improved modeling of human diseases as well as of new drug discovery and development.

Computational Investigation of Drug Phototoxicity: Photosafety Assessment, Photo-Toxophore Identification, and Machine Learning

One of the most appreciated capabilities of computational toxicology is to support the design of pharmaceuticals with reduced toxicological hazard. To this end, we have strengthened our drug photosafety assessments by applying novel computer models for the anticipation of in vitro phototoxicity and human photosensitization. These models are typically used in pharmaceutical discovery projects as part of the compound toxicity assessments and compound optimization methods. To ensure good data quality and aiming at models with global applicability we separately compiled and curated highly chemically diverse data sets from 3T3 NRU phototoxicity reports (450 compounds) and clinical photosensitization alerts (1419 compounds) which are provided as supplements. The latter data gives rise to a comprehensive list of explanatory fragments for visual guidance, termed phototoxophores, by application of a Bayesian statistics approach. To extend beyond the domain of well sampled fragments we applied machine learning techniques based on explanatory descriptors such as pharmacophoric fingerprints or, more important, accurate electronic energy descriptors. Electronic descriptors were extracted from quantum chemical computations at the density functional theory (DFT) level. Accurate UV/vis spectral absorption descriptors and pharmacophoric fingerprints turned out to be necessary for predictive computer models, which were both derived from Deep Neural Networks but also the simpler Random Decision Forests approach. Model accuracies of 83-85% could typically be reached for diverse test data sets and other company in-house data, while model sensitivity (the capability of correctly detecting toxicants) was even better, reaching 86%-90%. Importantly, a computer model-triggered response-map allowed for graphical/chemical interpretability also in the case of previously unknown phototoxophores. The photosafety models described here are currently applied in a prospective manner for the hazard identification, prioritization, and optimization of newly designed molecules.

Modulation of the Lipid Profile of Reconstructed Skin Substitutes after Essential Fatty Acid Supplementation Affects Testosterone Permeability

Skin models with efficient skin barrier function are required for percutaneous absorption studies. The contribution of media supplementation with n-3 and n-6 polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFAs) to the development of the skin barrier function of in vitro skin models remains incompletely understood. To investigate whether PUFAs, alpha-linolenic acid (ALA, n-3 PUFA) and linoleic acid (LA, n-6 PUFA), could enhance the impermeability of a three-dimensional reconstructed human skin model, skin substitutes were produced according to the self-assembly method using culture media supplemented with either 10 μM ALA or 10 μM LA. The impact of PUFAs on skin permeability was studied by using a Franz cell diffusion system to assess the percutaneous absorption of testosterone and benzoic acid. Our findings showed that ALA supplementation induced a decrease in the absorption of testosterone, while LA supplementation did not significantly influence the penetration of testosterone and benzoic acid under present experimental conditions. Both ALA and LA were incorporated into phospholipids of the skin substitutes, resulting in an increase in n-3 total PUFAs or n-6 total PUFAs. Collectively, these results revealed the under-estimated impact of n-3 PUFA supplementation as well as the importance of the n-6 to n-3 ratio on the formation of the skin barrier of in vitro reconstructed human skin models.

Current and Future Perspectives on Skin Tissue Engineering: Key Features of Biomedical Research, Translational Assessment, and Clinical Application

The skin is responsible for several important physiological functions and has enormous clinical significance in wound healing. Tissue engineered substitutes may be used in patients suffering from skin injuries to support regeneration of the epidermis, dermis, or both. Skin substitutes are also gaining traction in the cosmetics and pharmaceutical industries as alternatives to animal models for product testing. Recent biomedical advances, ranging from cellular-level therapies such as mesenchymal stem cell or growth factor delivery, to large-scale biofabrication techniques including 3D printing, have enabled the implementation of unique strategies and novel biomaterials to recapitulate the biological, architectural, and functional complexity of native skin. This progress report highlights some of the latest approaches to skin regeneration and biofabrication using tissue engineering techniques. Current challenges in fabricating multilayered skin are addressed, and perspectives on efforts and strategies to meet those limitations are provided. Commercially available skin substitute technologies are also examined, and strategies to recapitulate native physiology, the role of regulatory agencies in supporting translation, as well as current clinical needs, are reviewed. By considering each of these perspectives while moving from bench to bedside, tissue engineering may be leveraged to create improved skin substitutes for both in vitro testing and clinical applications.

Tri-culture system for pro-hapten sensitizer identification and potency classification

Allergic contact dermatitis (ACD) is an inflammatory disease that impacts 15-20% of the general population and accurate screening methods for chemical risk assessment are needed. However, most approaches poorly predict pre- and pro-hapten sensitizers, which require abiotic or metabolic conversion prior to inducing sensitization. We developed a tri-culture system comprised of MUTZ-3-derived Langerhans cells, HaCaT keratinocytes, and primary dermal fibroblasts to mimic the cellular and metabolic environments of skin sensitization. A panel of non-sensitizers and sensitizers was tested and the secretome was evaluated. A support vector machine (SVM) was used to identify the most predictive sensitization signature and classification trees identified statistical thresholds to predict sensitizer potency. The SVM computed 91% tri-culture prediction accuracy using the top 3 ranking biomarkers (IL-8, MIP-1β, and GM-CSF) and improved the detection of pre- and pro-haptens. This in vitro assay combined with in silico data analysis presents a promising approach and offers the possibility of multi-metric analysis for enhanced ACD sensitizer screening.

Sugar and mineral enriched fraction from olive mill wastewater for promising cosmeceutical application: characterization, in vitro and in vivo studies

Nowadays, agro-food by-products represent a potential low-cost source of biologically active ingredients which have been paid significant attention as nutraceuticals, medicine, food and cosmetics. In a previous study we evaluated the total sugars, metals and polyphenols of olive mill wastewater (OMWW) from a Cerasuola olive cultivar. In the present work we selectively recovered a sugar and mineral enriched fraction (SMEF) from Cerasuola OMWW by a green adsorption/desorption process. The SMEF was mainly found to be composed of monosaccharides and potassium by HPLC-ELSD and ICP-MS. The in vitro cytotoxicity on human fibroblasts, at different concentrations of the fraction, was investigated by MTT and comet assays. In addition, intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) production, apoptosis and cell morphological changes were examined. The physical stability of a formulation containing the SMEF (1% w/w) and its in vivo skin effects were also assessed.Our results highlighted that the SMEF showed a toxic effect at higher concentrations (i.e. cell viability reduction, DNA fragmentation and morphological alterations) well correlated with high ROS levels. Conversely, at low concentrations (0.5% and 1% w/w), no significant changes were observed. For the first time, through stability studies and in vivo tests, we also demonstrated that the SMEF formulation is stable and safe for topical application, since skin hydration improvement without negative effects was observed after 7 days of its use. Therefore, the SMEF has great potential to be used for cosmeceutical applications.

QSAR models for predicting acute toxicity of pesticides in rainbow trout using the CORAL software and EFSA's OpenFoodTox database

Optimal (flexible) descriptors were used to establish quantitative structure - activity relationships (QSAR) for toxicity of pesticides (n=116) towards rainbow trout. A heterogeneous set of hundreds of pesticides has been used, taken from the EFSA's chemical Hazards Database: OpenFoodTox. Optimal descriptors are preparing from simplified molecular input-line entry system (SMILES). So-called, correlation weights of different fragments of SMILES are calculating by the Monte Carlo optimization procedure where correlation coefficient between endpoint and optimal descriptor plays role of the target function. Having maximum of the correlation coefficient for the training set, one can suggest that the optimal descriptor calculated with these correlation weights can correlate with endpoint for external validation set. This approach was checked up with three different distributions into the training (≈85%) set and external validation (≈15%) set. The statistical characteristics of these models are (i) for training set correlation coefficient (r²) ranges 0.72-0.81, and root mean squared error (RMSE) ranges 0.54-1.25; (ii) for external (validation) set r² ranges 0.74-0.84; and RMSE ranges 0.64-0.75. Computational experiments have shown that presence of chlorine, fluorine, sulfur, and aromatic fragments is promoter of increase for the toxicity.

The application of new HARD-descriptor available from the CORAL software to building up NOAEL models

Continuous QSAR models have been developed and validated for the prediction of no-observed-adverse-effect (NOAEL) in rats, using training and test sets from the Fraunhofer RepDose® database and EFSA's Chemical Hazards Database: OpenFoodTox. This paper demonstrates that the HARD index, as an integrated attribute of SMILES, improves the prediction power of NOAEL values using the continuous QSAR models and Monte Carlo simulations. The HARD-index is a line of eleven symbols, which represents the presence, or absence of eight chemical elements (nitrogen, oxygen, sulfur, phosphorus, fluorine, chlorine, bromine, and iodine) and different kinds of chemical bonds (double bond, triple bond, and stereo chemical bond). Optimal molecular descriptors calculated with the Monte Carlo technique (maximization of correlation coefficient between the descriptor and endpoint) give satisfactory predictive models for NOAEL. Optimal molecular descriptors calculated in this way with the Monte Carlo technique (maximization of correlation coefficient between the descriptor and endpoint) give amongst the best results available in the literature. The models are built up in accordance with OECD principles.