Herbal products as skincare therapeutic agents against ultraviolet radiation-induced skin disorders

Advancements in sunscreen formulations: integrating polyphenolic nanocarriers and nanotechnology for enhanced UV protection

Sunscreens are essential in protecting the skin from harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation (UVR). These formulations, designed to absorb, block, or scatter UVR, offer vital protection against skin aging, sunburns, and the development of skin cancers like melanomas. However, some sunscreens, especially those containing organic/chemical compounds, can cause allergic reactions. To address this, researchers are extensively investigating formulations that incorporate plant extracts rich in polyphenols, such as flavonoids and carotenoids, which can be considered safer alternatives. Products derived from plants are commonly used in cosmetics to counteract skin aging due to their antioxidant activity that combat harmful free radicals. This review focuses on evaluating the advancements in chemical and natural sunscreens, exploring the integration of polyphenolic nanocarriers within sunscreen formulas, their interaction with UVR, and utilizing nanotechnology to enhance their effectiveness. An attempt has been made to highlight the concerns related to toxicity associated with their use and notable advancements in the regulatory aspects governing their utilization.

In vitro study of the antioxidant, sun factor protection, antimicrobial, and antifungal activities with molecular docking of methanolic extracts from leaves and fruit of Phillyrea angustifolia L

This study aimed to evaluate the potential therapeutic effects of Phillyrea angustifolia L leaves and fruits from Algeria. The total phenolic and flavonoid contents, sun protection factor, antimicrobial, antifungal, and antioxidant activities such as DPPH, ABTS, FRAP, CUPRAC, and o-phenanthroline reduction were determined. The findings of the comparative analysis revealed that the leaves contained higher levels of total phenolic content (TPC) and flavonoid content (TFC) compared to the fruit, indicating their maximum antioxidant potential. TPC values for leaves ranged from 528.411 ± 9.94 to 816.352 ± 5.09 µg EAG/mg of dry extract, while for fruits, it ranged from 378.215 ± 5.26 to 579.392 ± 14.2 µg EAG/mg extract/ml. Similarly, TFC values for leaves varied from 65.833 ± 9.42 to 147.986 ± 5.59 µg EAG/mg of dry extract, and for fruits, it ranged from 45.486 ± 5.00 to 90.208 ± 6.77 µg EAG/mg extract/ml. Moreover, both leaves and fruit extracts showed significant growth inhibition against Staphylococcus aureus and Enterococcus faecalis, with the highest activity against Staphylococcus aureus, followed by Escherichia coli. The sun protection factor (SPF) values of both leaves and fruits extracts are close to the values of standard sunscreen VICHY. In addition, molecular docking studies identified promising compounds, including Demethyloleuropein, Luteolin-7-O-glucoside, Apigenin 7-Glucoside, Oleuropein, Pinoresinol, and Syringaresinol monoglucopyranoside of leaves from P. angustifolia L, these compounds are showing a better binding affinity than native ligands against Rhomboid protease GlpG from E. coli, the same thing about luteolin-7-O-glucoside and apigenin 7-glucoside exhibited similar binding free energy values to the target protein S. aureus sortase A. The study suggests that leaves and fruits of Phillyrea angustifolia L could be valuable sources for developing drugs against pathogenic oral yeasts, Gram-negative and Gram-positive bacteria.

Supplementary Information

The online version contains supplementary material available at 10.1007/s13205-023-03877-5.

Automatic Classification of Antimalarial Herbal Drugs Exposed to Ultraviolet Radiation from Unexposed Ones Using Laser-Induced Autofluorescence with Chemometric Techniques

Exposure of antimalarial herbal drugs (AMHDs) to ultraviolet radiation (UVR) affects the potency and integrity of the AMHDs. Instant classification of the AMHDs exposed to UVR (UVR-AMHDs) from unexposed ones (Non-UVR-AMHDs) would be beneficial for public health safety, especially in warm regions. For the first time, this work combined laser-induced autofluorescence (LIAF) with chemometric techniques to classify UVR-AMHDs from Non-UVR-AMHDs. LIAF spectra data were recorded from 200 ml of each of the UVR-AMHDs and Non-UVR-AMHDs. To extract useful data from the spectra fingerprint, principal components (PCs) analysis was used. The performance of five chemometric algorithms: random forest (RF), neural network (NN), support vector machine (SVM), linear discriminant analysis (LDA), and k-nearest neighbour (KNN), were compared after optimization by validation. The chemometric algorithms showed that KNN, SVM, NN, and RF were superior with a classification accuracy of 100% for UVR-AMHDs while LDA had a classification accuracy of 98.8% after standardization of the spectra data and was used as an input variable for the model. Meanwhile, a classification accuracy of 100% was obtained for KNN, LDA, SVM, and NN when the raw spectra data was used as input except for RF for which a classification accuracy of 99.9% was obtained. Classification accuracy above 99.74 ± 0.26% at 3 PCs in both the training and testing sets were obtained from the chemometric models. The results showed that the LIAF, combined with the chemometric techniques, can be used to classify UVR-AMHDs from Non-UVR-AMHDs for consumer confidence in malaria-prone regions. The technique offers a non-destructive, rapid, and viable tool for identifying UVR-AMHDs in resource-poor countries.

Photochemoprevention of topical formulation containing purified fraction of Inga edulis leaves extract

Natural antioxidants have attracted attention for their therapeutic use as photochemopreventive agents. Inga edulis leaves extract and its purified fraction have high polyphenolic content and high antioxidant capacity. In addition, they presented UV photostability and low citotoxicity in fibroblast cells. In this context, this study first aimed at development of topical formulation containing purified fraction of I. edulis extract and the evaluation of skin penetration of the compounds. Moreover, the photoprotective/photochemopreventive potential of the formulation containing I. edulis purified fraction were investigated in vitro and in vivo. The topical formulation containing 1% of the purified fraction of I. edulis increased the endogenous antioxidant potential of the skin, and vicenin-2 and myricetin compounds were able to penetrate the epidermis and dermis. Additionally, the purified fraction (25 and 50 mg/mL) showed a photoprotective effect against UVA and UVB radiation in L929 fibroblast cells. In vivo studies have shown that the formulation added with purified fraction provided an anti-inflammatory effect on the skin of animals after UVB exposure, since it was observed a reduction in MPO activity, IL-1β and TNF-α cytokines, and CXCL1/KC chemokine concentrations. In conclusion, the purified fraction of I. edulis, rich in phenolic compounds, when incorporated in topical formulation, appears as an alternative to prevent skin damages induced by UV radiation, due to its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.

Exploring the Potential of Extracts from Sloanea medusula and S. calva: Formulating Two Skincare Gels with Antioxidant, Sun Protective Factor, and Anti-Candida albicans Activities

Sloanea is a plant genus, native to tropical regions, used in medicinal practices for its anti-inflammatory properties. This study aimed to determine the antioxidant activity, sun protective factor (SPF), and antifungal of extracts obtained from two species of Sloanea and to develop extract-based gels with antioxidants, photoprotective, and anti-Candida albicans effects. Ethanolic extracts from S. medusula and S. calva collected in Chocó, Colombia, were used for antioxidant activity and SPF determination using the DPPH assay and the Mansur equation, respectively. Extracts were characterized using HPLC-MS and used to prepare the gels. The viscosity of the extract-based gels was evaluated using an MCR92 rheometer. In addition, the anti-Candida activity of extracts against five yeasts and anti-C. albicans of gels were evaluated following the Clinical and Laboratory Standards Institute M27, 4th Edition. High DPPH radical scavenging activity (42.4% and 44.7%) and a high SPF value (32.5 and 35.4) were obtained for the extracts of S. medusula and S. calva, respectively. Similarly, extract-based gels showed significant DPPH radical scavenging activity of 54.5% and 53.0% and maximum SPF values of 60 and 57. Extract from S. medusula showed an important antifungal activity against C. albicans (minimal inhibitory concentration (MIC) of 2 µg/mL). In contrast, S. calva extract was active against C. krusei, C. albicans (MIC of 2 µg/mL) and C. tropicalis (MIC of 4 µg/mL). Sloanea medusula gel (0.15%) exhibited an important C. albicans growth inhibition (98%), while with S. calva gel (0.3%) growth inhibition was slightly lower (76%). Polyphenolic and triterpenoid compounds were tentatively identified for S. medusula and S. calva, respectively. Both extracts can be considered promising sources for developing photoprotective gels to treat skin infections caused by C. albicans.

Photo-Protective and Anti-Inflammatory Effects of Antidesma thwaitesianum Müll. Arg. Fruit Extract against UVB-Induced Keratinocyte Cell Damage

The main cause of most skin cancers is damage from UVB from sunlight, which penetrate the skin surface and induce inflammation. For this reason, this study aims to identify natural products with photo-protection properties and their mode of action by using the UVB-irradiated HaCaT keratinocyte model. Antidesma thwaitesianum fruit extracts at 25, 50, and 100 µg/mL recovered cell viability following UVB exposure in a dose-dependent manner. Cell survival was associated with the reduction in intracellular ROS and NO. In addition, we showed that the pre-treatment with the fruit extract lowered the phosphorylation level of two MAPK-signaling pathways: p38 MAPKs and JNKs. The resulting lower MAPK activation decreased their downstream pro-inflammatory cascade through COX-2 expression and subsequently reduced the PGE₂ proinflammatory mediator level. The photoprotective effects of the fruit extract were correlated with the presence of polyphenolic compounds, including cyanidin, ferulic acid, caffeic acid, vanillic acid, and protocatechuic acid, which have been previously described as antioxidant and anti-inflammation. Together, we demonstrated that the pre-treatment with the fruit extract had photo-protection by inhibiting oxidative stress and subsequently lowered stress-induced MAPK responses. Therefore, this fresh fruit is worthy of investigation to be utilized as a skincare ingredient for preventing UVB-induced skin damage.