Studying the effectiveness of penetration enhancers to deliver retinol through the stratum cornum by in vivo confocal Raman spectroscopy

Solvent and Crystallization Effects on the Dermal Absorption of Hydrophilic and Lipophilic Compounds

This study probes the mechanisms by which volatile solvents (water, ethanol) and a nonionic surfactant (Triton X-100) influence the skin permeation of dissolved solutes following deposition of small doses onto unoccluded human skin. A secondary objective was to sharpen guidelines for the use of these and other simple solvent systems for dermal safety testing of cosmetic ingredients at finite doses. Four solutes were studied - niacinamide, caffeine, testosterone and geraniol - at doses close to that estimated to saturate the upper layers of the stratum corneum. Methods included tensiometry, visualization of spreading on skin, polarized light microscopy and in vitro permeation testing using radiolabeled solutes. Ethanol, aqueous ethanol and dilute aqueous Triton solutions all yielded surface tensions below 36 mN/m, allowing them to spread easily on the skin, unlike water (72.4 mN/m) which did not spread. Deposition onto skin of niacinamide (32 μg·cm-2) or caffeine (3.2 μg·cm-2) from water and ethanol led to crystalline deposits on the skin surface, whereas the same amounts applied from aqueous ethanol and 2 % Triton did not. Skin permeation of these compounds was inversely correlated to the extent of crystallization. A separate study with caffeine showed the absence of a dose-related skin permeability increase with Triton. Permeation of testosterone (8.2 μg·cm-2) was modestly increased when dosed from aqueous ethanol versus ethanol. Permeation of geraniol (2.9 μg·cm-2) followed the order aqueous ethanol > water ∼ 2 % Triton >> ethanol and was inversely correlated with evaporative loss. We conclude that, under the conditions tested, aqueous ethanol and Triton serve primarily as deposition aids and do not substantially disrupt stratum corneum lipids. Implications for the design of in vitro skin permeability tests are discussed.

Glycols: The ubiquitous solvent for dermal formulations

Glycols stand out as one of the most commonly employed safe and effective excipients for pharmaceutical and cosmeceutical products. Their widespread adoption can be attributed to their exceptional solvency characteristics and their ability to interact effectively with skin lipids and keratin for permeation enhancement. Notably, propylene glycol enjoys significant popularity in this regard. Ongoing research endeavours have been dedicated to scrutinising the impact of glycols on dermal drug delivery and shedding light on the intricate mechanisms by which glycols enhance skin permeation. This review aims to mitigate the discordance within the existing literature, assemble a holistic understanding of the impact of glycols on the percutaneous absorption of active compounds and furnish the reader with a profound comprehension of the foundational facets pertaining to their skin permeation enhancement mechanisms, while simultaneously delving deeper into the intricacies of these processes.

Recent advances in delivery of transdermal nutrients: A review

Nutrients provide vital functions in the body for sustained health, which have been shown to be related to the incidence, prevention and treatment of disease. However, limited bioavailability, loss of targeting specificity and the increased hepatic metabolism limit the utilization of nutrients. In this review, we highlight transdermal absorption of nutrients, which represents an opportunity to allow great use of many nutrients with promising human health benefits. Moreover, we describe how the various types of permeation enhancers are increasingly exploited for transdermal nutrient delivery. Chemical penetration enhancers, carrier systems and physical techniques for transdermal nutrient delivery are described, with a focus on combinatorial approaches. Although there are many carrier systems and physical techniques currently in development, with some tools currently in advanced clinical trials, relatively few products have achieved full translation to clinical practice. Challenges and further developments of these tools are discussed here in this review. This review will be useful to researchers interested in transdermal applications of permeation enhancers for the efficient delivery of nutrients, providing a reference for supporting the need to take more account of specific nutritional needs in specific states.

Microencapsulation of alcohol solvents and high-content actives for efficient transdermal delivery

The barrier function of the skin in effectively protecting the underlying tissue from the surrounding environment makes it challenging to achieve the efficient transdermal delivery of actives. Herein, we report on alcohol-solvent-encapsulated microcapsules to achieve enhanced skin efficacy. We show that using palm oil as the shell material allows for the microencapsulation of a broad range of alcohol solvents, including ethanol and dipropylene glycol (DPG), as well as on-demand release. Moreover, clinical trials reveal that the high-content actives in microcapsules result in enhanced skin efficacy, and the presence of DPG effectively mediates the transdermal delivery of these actives without causing any skin irritation. We envision that the alcohol-solvent microencapsulation strategy outlined in this work offers new possibilities in cosmetics, food, and drug delivery systems.

Directional assessment of the skin barrier function in vivo

INTRODUCTION

The fundamental function of the epidermis is to provide an inside-out barrier to water loss and an outside-in barrier to penetration of external irritants. Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) has been extensively used as a method of estimating the skin barrier quality, typically without any consideration of directionality. The validity of TEWL as an estimate of skin permeability to external substances has been controversial in vitro and in vivo. The aim of this work was to assess the relationship between TEWL and the penetration of a topically applied external marker (caffeine) in healthy skin in vivo before and following a challenge to the barrier.

METHODS

The skin barrier was challenged by application of aqueous solutions of mild cleanser products under occlusion for 3 h on the forearms of nine human participants. Skin barrier quality was evaluated before and after the challenge by measuring the TEWL rate and the permeated amount of topically applied caffeine using in vivo confocal Raman microspectroscopy.

RESULTS

No skin irritation was observed following the skin barrier challenge. TEWL rates and the caffeine penetrated amount in the stratum corneum after the challenge were not correlated. A weak correlation was observed when the changes were corrected to water-only treatment. TEWL values can be influenced by environmental conditions as well as the skin temperature and water content.

CONCLUSIONS

Measuring TEWL rates is not always representative of the outside-in barrier. TEWL may be useful in differentiating large changes in skin barrier function (e.g., between healthy and compromised skin) but is less sensitive to small variations following topical application of mild cleansers.

Quantitative determination of concentration profiles of skin components and topically applied oils by tailored multivariate curve resolution-alternating least squares using in vivo confocal Raman micro-spectroscopy

The main components of the stratum corneum (SC), water, lipids, and proteins, are non-homogeneously distributed throughout the depth. The quantitative determination of their concentration profiles and penetration depth of topically applied substances are urgent topics of dermatological and cosmetic research. Confocal Raman micro-spectroscopy has distinct advantages when determining semi-quantitative concentrations of SC components and topically applied substances non-invasively and in vivo. In this work, we applied a tailored multivariate curve resolution-alternating least squares (tMCR-ALS) method to analyze Raman spectra of the SC in the 2000-4000 cm-1 region for quantitatively determining the concentrations of water, lipids, proteins, and topically applied oils using substance-related spectral loadings which were allowed to change depth-dependently from the SC's surface toward its bottom. tMCR-ALS makes matching of depth-dependent signal attenuation, that is, the normalization on keratin, unnecessary and requires only a few additional experiments for calibration - Raman spectra of the pure materials and their densities.

Dermal Delivery of Diclofenac Sodium-In Vitro and In Vivo Studies

Previously, we reported the use of confocal Raman spectroscopy (CRS) as a novel non-invasive approach to determine drug disposition in the skin in vivo. Results obtained by CRS were found to correlate with data from the well-established in vitro permeation test (IVPT) model using human epidermis. However, these studies used simple vehicles comprising single solvents and binary or ternary solvent mixtures; to date, the utility of CRS for monitoring dermal absorption following application of complex marketed formulations has not been examined. In the present work, skin delivery of diclofenac sodium (DFNa) from two topical dermatological drug products, namely Diclac® Lipogel 10 mg/g and Primofenac® Emulsion gel 1%, was determined by IVPT and in vivo by both CRS and tape stripping (TS) methodologies under similar experimental conditions. The in vivo data were evaluated against the in vitro findings, and a direct comparison between CRS and TS was performed. Results from all methodologies showed that Diclac promoted significantly greater DFNa delivery to the skin (p < 0.05). The cumulative amounts of DFNa which permeated at 24 h in vitro for Diclac (86.5 ± 9.4 µg/cm2) were 3.6-fold greater than the corresponding amounts found for Primofenac (24.4 ± 2.7 µg/cm2). Additionally, total skin uptake of DFNa in vivo, estimated by the area under the depth profiles curves (AUC), or the signal intensity of the drug detected in the upper stratum corneum (SC) (4 µm) ranged from 3.5 to 3.6-fold greater for Diclac than for Primofenac. The shape of the distribution profiles and the depth of DFNa penetration to the SC estimated by CRS and TS were similar for the two methods. However, TS data indicated a 4.7-fold greater efficacy of Diclac relative to Primofenac, with corresponding total amounts of drug penetrated, 94.1 ± 22.6 µg and 20.2 ± 7.0 µg. The findings demonstrate that CRS is a methodology that is capable of distinguishing skin delivery of DFNa from different formulations. The results support the use of this approach for non-invasive evaluation of topical products in vivo. Future studies will examine additional formulations with more complex compositions and will use a wider range of drugs with different physicochemical properties. The non-invasive nature of CRS coupled with the ability to monitor drug permeation in real time offer significant advantages for testing and development of topical dermatological products.

Skin Penetration Enhancer-Incorporated Lipid Nanovesicles (SPE-LNV) for Skin Brightening and Wrinkle Treatment

In this work, we utilize skin penetration enhancers (SPEs) such as ceramide and fatty acids in lipid nanovesicles to promote the transdermal delivery of active ingredients. These SPE-incorporated lipid nanovesicles (SPE-LNV) interact with the constituents of skin's outermost stratum corneum (SC) layer, enabling even niacinamide and adenosine with high water solubility to effectively permeate through, leading to enhanced skin efficacy. We demonstrate by both in vitro and in vivo skin permeation studies that the SPE-LNV formulation containing both ceramide and fatty acids (LNV-CF) exhibits deeper penetration depth and faster permeation rate compared to conventional lipid nanovesicles (LNV) without SPE as well as LNV-C with only ceramide. Moreover, in vivo clinical trials were also performed to confirm that LNV-CF most effectively mediates the delivery of niacinamide and adenosine, resulting in a substantial decrease in melanin index as well as skin wrinkle compared to the control groups. We envision that the strategy of incorporating both ceramide and fatty acids in lipid nanovesicles offers a simple and convenient route for the rapid and effective delivery of water-soluble active ingredients across the skin barrier layer.

Novel aspects of Raman spectroscopy in skin research

The analytical technology of Raman spectroscopy has an almost 100‐year history. During this period, many modifications and developments happened in the method like discovery of laser, improvements in optical elements and sensitivity of spectrometer and also more advanced light detection systems. Many types of the innovative techniques appeared (e.g. Transmittance Raman spectroscopy, Coherent Raman Scattering microscopy, Surface‐Enhanced Raman scattering and Confocal Raman spectroscopy/microscopy). This review article gives a short description about these different Raman techniques and their possible applications. Then, a short statistical part is coming about the appearance of Raman spectroscopy in the scientific literature from the beginnings to these days. The third part of the paper shows the main application options of the technique (especially confocal Raman spectroscopy) in skin research, including skin composition analysis, drug penetration monitoring and analysis, diagnostic utilizations in dermatology and cosmeto‐scientific applications. At the end, the possible role of artificial intelligence in Raman data analysis and the regulatory aspect of these techniques in dermatology are briefly summarized. For the future of Raman Spectroscopy, increasing clinical relevance and in vivo applications can be predicted with spreading of non‐destructive methods and appearance with the most advanced instruments with rapid analysis time.

Ex vivo - in vivo correlation of Retinol stratum corneum penetration studies by confocal Raman microspectroscopy and tape stripping

Skin penetration studies of topically applied drugs are a challenging topic in the development of semisolid formulations. The most commonly used methods can be differentiated by their character into ex-vivo/in-vivo, invasive/non-invasive and off-line/in-line measurements. In this study we compare ex-vivo tape stripping, an invasive technique, which is often used, to confocal Raman microspectroscopy (CRM), ex- and in-vivo, to establish a correlation between those methods. Retinol was used as a model drug, applied in an oil in water emulsion, to compare the skin penetration profiles obtained by the different methods.

Confocal Raman spectroscopy at different laser wavelengths in analyzing stratum corneum and skin penetration properties of mixed PEGylated emulsifier systems

Emulsifier mixtures are widely used in cosmetics and pharmaceutics and thus, brought extensive studies for their performances on skin applications. PEG-20cetyl ether (C20) is recently proposed to induce skin irritation and is of interest to study its skin interactions when mixed with other emulsifiers. PEG-2oleyl ether (O2) and PEG-20stearyl ether (S20) are selected and in specific, 50 mM of C20, O2, S20 as well as Mix1 (50 mM C20 mixed with 50 mM O2) and Mix2 (50 mM C20 mixed with 50 mM S20) solutions were applied on skin samples. Confocal Raman spectroscopy (CRS) analyses of stratum corneum (SC) thickness and SC lipid content were performed after 4 h skin treatments. In parallel, skin penetration properties were also evaluated via CRS by applying procaine solutions with/without emulsifiers on skin samples for 24 h. In terms of the CRS measurements, two excitation wavelengths of 532 nm and 785 nm are both utilized in this study and we secondly aimed to compare their results and suitability in SC and skin analyses. Based on the experimental observations, comparable results are obtained by using both excitation wavelengths of 532 nm and 785 nm demonstrating their suitability in analyzing SC and skin samples. Thereinto, 785 nm laser wavelength shows the advantage of deeper skin penetration and allows the measurements of fluorescent skin samples; 532 nm laser wavelength enables simple measurement performance without substrate and coverslip interference. With regards to the results of emulsifier mixtures, the addition of S20 and O2 reduced the skin interactions and penetration enhancing ability of C20, giving us the hint to build milder systems with emulsifier mixtures. Besides, the CRS results of stronger skin interruption were also correlated with the higher critical micelle concentration (CMC) values of emulsifiers and their mixtures, which may provide evidence in explaining the interactions between emulsifiers and skin.

In vivo examination of healthy human skin after short-time treatment with moisturizers using confocal Raman spectroscopy and optical coherence tomography: Preliminary observations

Skin is our barrier against environmental damage. Moisturizers are widely used to increase hydration and barrier integrity of the skin; however, there are contrasting observations on their in vivo effects in real-life settings. In cosmetic studies, corneometers and tewameters are traditionally used to assess skin hydration. In this study, two novel noninvasive diagnostic techniques, optical coherence tomography (OCT) and confocal Raman spectroscopy, were used to analyze stratum corneum and epidermal thickness (ET), water content, blood flow in function of depth, skin roughness, attenuation coefficient, natural moisturizing factor, ceramides and free fatty acids, cholesterol, urea, and lactates in 20 female subjects aged between 30 and 45 before and after 2 weeks application of a commercially available moisturizing lotion on one forearm. The untreated forearm served as control. A third measurement was conducted 1 week after cessation of moisturizing to verify whether the changes in the analyzed parameters persisted. We noticed a reduction in skin roughness, an increase in ceramides and free fatty acids and a not statistically significant increase in ET. As a conclusion, short time moisturizing appears insufficient to provide significant changes in skin morphology and composition, as assessed by OCT and RS. Novel noninvasive imaging methods are suitable for the evaluation of skin response to topical moisturizers. Further studies on larger sample size and longer treatment schedules are needed to analyze changes under treatment with moisturizers and to standardize the use of novel noninvasive diagnostic techniques.

In Vitro-In Vivo Correlation in Dermal Delivery: The Role of Excipients

The composition of topical and transdermal formulations is known to determine the rate and the extent of drug delivery to and through the skin. However, to date, the role of excipients in these formulations on skin delivery of actives has received little attention from scientists in the field. Monitoring skin absorption of both drug and vehicle may provide insights into the mechanism by which excipients promote permeation and may facilitate the design of effective and safer products. Previously, we have investigated the use of quantitative Confocal Raman Spectroscopy (CRS) to investigate the delivery of an active to the skin, and we also reported the first fully quantitative study that compared this method with the well-established in vitro permeation test (IVPT) model. To further explore the potential of quantitative CRS in assessing topical delivery, the present work investigated the effects of commonly used excipients on the percutaneous absorption of a model drug, ibuprofen (IBU). Permeation of IBU and selected solvents following finite dose applications to human skin was determined in vitro and in vivo by Franz diffusion studies and quantitative CRS, respectively. The solvents used were propylene glycol (PG), dipropylene glycol (DPG), tripropylene glycol (TPG), and polyethylene glycol 300 (PEG 300). Overall, the cumulative amounts of IBU that permeated at 24 h in vitro were similar for PG, DPG, and TPG (p > 0.05). These three vehicles outperformed PEG 300 (p < 0.05) in terms of drug delivery. Concerning the vehicles, the rank order for in vitro skin permeation was DPG ≥ PG > TPG, while PEG 300 did not permeate the skin. A linear relationship between maximum vehicle and IBU flux in vitro was found, with a correlation coefficient (R²) of 0.95. When comparing in vitro with in vivo data, a positive in vitro–in vivo (IVIV) correlation between the cumulative permeation of IBU in vitro and the total amount of IBU that penetrated the stratum corneum (SC) in vivo was observed, with a Pearson correlation coefficient (R²) of 0.90. A strong IVIV correlation, R² = 0.82, was found following the linear regression of the cumulative number of solvents permeated in vitro and the corresponding skin uptake in vivo measured with CRS. This is the first study to correlate in vivo permeation of solvents measured by CRS with data obtained by in vitro diffusion studies. The IVIV correlations suggest that CRS is a powerful tool for profiling drug and vehicle delivery from dermal formulations. Future studies will examine additional excipients with varying physicochemical properties. Ultimately, these findings are expected to lead to new approaches for the design, evaluation, and optimization of formulations that target actives to and through the skin.

Tracking heavy-water-incorporated confocal Raman spectroscopy for evaluating the effects of PEGylated emulsifiers on skin barrier

The class of PEGylated emulsifiers finds broad application in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industry. We target on one of the categories of polyethylene glycol (PEG) alkyl ethers with different lipophilic and hydrophilic chain length and aim to examine their effects on the skin comprehensively. In this study, we employed confocal Raman spectroscopy for skin depth profiling and imaging. A unique probe of heavy water (D₂ O) was incorporated, which can be tracked percutaneously and simultaneously monitor the effects caused by emulsifiers. According to the results, most of the PEGylated emulsifiers caused changes in skin lipid content/organization and induced the alteration in relative water content/hydrogen bonding structure. The results obtained from the depth profiling analysis provided the possibility to estimate the least penetration depth of emulsifiers. Among them, PEG-20 ethers displayed the most penetration ability. Meanwhile, it is interesting to find that the treatment of emulsifiers also affected the spatial distribution of D₂ O whose differences were in line with the molecular skin variations. In particular, the isotopic H/D substitution in the skin was highlighted in detail. This result supports the possibility to use D₂ O as an excellent and cost-effective probe to evaluate the skin barrier function.

The application of label-free imaging technologies in transdermal research for deeper mechanism revealing

The penetration behavior of topical substances in the skin not only relates to the transdermal delivery efficiency but also involves the safety and therapeutic effect of topical products, such as sunscreen and hair growth products. Researchers have tried to illustrate the transdermal process with diversified theories and technologies. Directly observing the distribution of topical substances on skin by characteristic imaging is the most convincing approach. Unfortunately, fluorescence labeling imaging, which is commonly used in biochemical research, is limited for transdermal research for most topical substances with a molecular mass less than 500 Da. Label-free imaging technologies possess the advantages of not requiring any macromolecular dyes, no tissue destruction and an extensive substance detection capability, which has enabled rapid development of such technologies in recent years and their introduction to biological tissue analysis, such as skin samples. Through the specific identification of topical substances and endogenous tissue components, label-free imaging technologies can provide abundant tissue distribution information, enrich theoretical and practical guidance for transdermal drug delivery systems. In this review, we expound the mechanisms and applications of the most popular label-free imaging technologies in transdermal research at present, compare their advantages and disadvantages, and forecast development prospects.

Cutaneous Application of Celecoxib for Inflammatory and Cancer Diseases

BACKGROUND

Nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs) and particularly selective cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2) inhibitors such as celecoxib (Cxb) are considered promising cancer chemopreventive for colon, breast, prostate, lung, and skin cancers. However, the clinical application to the prevention is limited by concerns about safety, potential to serious toxicity (mainly for healthy individuals), efficacy and optimal treatment regimen. Cxb exhibits advantages as potent antiinflammatory and gastrointestinal tolerance compared with conventional NSAID's. Recent researches suggest that dermatological formulations of Cxb are more suitable than oral administration in the treatment of cutaneous disease, including skin cancer. To date, optimism has been growing regarding the exploration of the topical application of Cxb (in the prevention of skin cancers and treatment of cutaneous inflammation) or transdermal route reducing risks of systemic side effects.

OBJECTIVE

This paper briefly summarizes our current knowledge of the development of the cutaneous formulations or delivery systems for Cxb as anti-inflammatory drug (for topical or transdermal application) as well its chemopreventive properties focused on skin cancer.

CONCLUSION

New perspectives emerge from the growing knowledge, bringing innovative techniques combining the action of Cxb with other substances or agents which act in a different way, but complementary, increasing the efficacy and minimizing toxicity.

Imaging and quantifying drug delivery in skin - Part 2: Fluorescence andvibrational spectroscopic imaging methods

Understanding the delivery and diffusion of topically-applied drugs on human skin is of paramount importance in both pharmaceutical and cosmetics research. This information is critical in early stages of drug development and allows the identification of the most promising ingredients delivered at optimal concentrations to their target skin compartments. Different skin imaging methods, invasive and non-invasive, are available to characterize and quantify the spatiotemporal distribution of a drug within ex vivo and in vivo human skin. The first part of this review detailed invasive imaging methods (autoradiography, MALDI and SIMS). This second part reviews non-invasive imaging methods that can be applied in vivo: i) fluorescence (conventional, confocal, and multiphoton) and second harmonic generation microscopies and ii) vibrational spectroscopic imaging methods (infrared, confocal Raman, and coherent Raman scattering microscopies). Finally, a flow chart for the selection of imaging methods is presented to guide human skin ex vivo and in vivo drug delivery studies.

Methods to Evaluate Skin Penetration In Vitro

Dermal and transdermal drug therapy is increasing in importance nowadays in drug development. To completely utilize the potential of this administration route, it is necessary to optimize the drug release and skin penetration measurements. This review covers the most well-known and up-to-date methods for evaluating the cutaneous penetration of drugs in vitro as a supporting tool for pharmaceutical research scientists in the early stage of drug development. The aim of this article is to present various experimental models used in dermal/transdermal research and summarize the novel knowledge about the main in vitro methods available to study skin penetration. These techniques are: Diffusion cell, skin-PAMPA, tape stripping, two-photon microscopy, confocal laser scanning microscopy, and confocal Raman microscopic method.

Mechanism investigation of ethosomes transdermal permeation

Ethosomes are widely used to promote transdermal permeation of both lipophilic and hydrophilic drugs, but the mechanism of interaction between the ethosomes and the skin remains unclear. In this work, it was exploded with several technologies and facilities. Firstly, physical techniques such as attenuated total reflectance fourier-transform infrared and laser confocal Raman were used and the results indicated that the phospholipids configuration of stratum corneum changes from steady state to unstable state with the treatment of ethosomes. Differential scanning calorimetry reflected the thermodynamics change in stratum corneum after treatment with ethosomes. The results revealed that the skin of Bama mini-pigs, which is similar to human skin, treated by ethosomes had a relatively low T_m and enthalpy. Scanning electron microscopy and transmission electron microscopy showed that the microstructure and ultrastructure of stratum corneum was not damaged by ethosomes treatment. Furthermore, confocal laser scanning microscopy revealed that lipid labeled ethosomes could penetrate the skin via stratum corneum mainly through intercellular route, while during the process of penetration, phospholipids were retained in the upper epidermis. Cell experiments confirmed that ethosomes were distributed mainly on the cell membrane. Further study showed that only the drug-loaded ethosomes increased the amount of permeated drug. The current study, for the first time, elucidated the mechanistic behavior of ethosomes in transdermal application from molecular configuration, thermodynamic properties, ultrastructure, fluorescent labeling and cellular study. It is anticipated that the approaches and results described in the present study will benefit for better design of drug-loaded ethosomes.

Novel confocal Raman microscopy method to investigate hydration mechanisms in human skin

BACKGROUND

Skin hydration is essential for maintaining stratum corneum (SC) flexibility and facilitating maturation events. Moisturizers contain multiple ingredients to maintain and improve skin hydration although a complete understanding of hydration mechanisms is lacking. The ability to differentiate the source of the hydration (water from the environment or deeper skin regions) upon application of product will aid in designing more efficacious formulations.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Novel confocal Raman microscopy (CRM) experiments allow us to investigate mechanisms and levels of hydration in the SC. Using deuterium oxide (D₂ O) as a probe permits the differentiation of endogenous water (H₂ O) from exogenous D₂ O. Following topical application of D₂ O, we first compare in vivo skin depth profiles with those obtained using ex vivo skin. Additional ex vivo experiments are conducted to quantify the kinetics of D₂ O diffusion in the epidermis by introducing D₂ O under the dermis.

RESULTS

Relative D₂ O depth profiles from in vivo and ex vivo measurements compare well considering procedural and instrumental differences. Additional in vivo experiments where D₂ O was applied following topical glycerin application increased the longevity of D₂ O in the SC. Reproducible rates of D₂ O diffusion as a function of depth have been established for experiments where D₂ O is introduced under ex vivo skin.

CONCLUSION

Unique information regarding hydration mechanisms are obtained from CRM experiments using D₂ O as a probe. The source and relative rates of hydration can be delineated using ex vivo skin with D₂ O underneath. One can envision comparing these depth-dependent rates in the presence and absence of topically applied hydrating agents to obtain mechanistic information.

Review of Modern Techniques for the Assessment of Skin Hydration

Skin hydration is a complex process that influences the physical and mechanical properties of skin. Various technologies have emerged over the years to assess this parameter, with the current standard being electrical probe-based instruments. Nevertheless, their inability to provide detailed information has prompted the use of sophisticated spectroscopic and imaging methodologies, which are capable of in-depth skin analysis that includes structural and composition details. Modern imaging and spectroscopic techniques have transformed skin research in the dermatological and cosmetics disciplines, and are now commonly employed in conjunction with traditional methods for comprehensive assessment of both healthy and pathological skin. This article reviews current techniques employed in measuring skin hydration, and gives an account on their principle of operation and applications in skin-related research.

Unique evolution of vitamin A as an external pigment in tropical starlings

Pigments are largely responsible for the appearance of organisms. Most biological pigments derive from the metabolism of shikimic acid (melanins), mevalonic acid (carotenoids) or levulinic acid (porphyrins), which thus generate the observed diversity of external phenotypes. Starlings are generally dark birds despite iridescence in feathers, but 10 % of species have evolved plumage pigmentation comprising bright colors that are known to be produced only by carotenoids. However, using micro-Raman spectroscopy, we have discovered that the bright yellow plumage coloration of one of these species, the Afrotropical golden-breasted starling Cosmopsarus regius, is not produced by carotenoids, but by vitamin A (all-trans-retinol). This is the first organism reported to deposit significant amounts of vitamin A in its integument and use it as a body pigment. Phylogenetic reconstructions reveal that the retinol-based pigmentation of the golden-breasted starling has independently appeared in the starling family from dark ancestors. Our study thus unveils a unique evolution of a new class of external pigments comprised by retinoids.

Detecting active ingredients of insect repellents and sunscreens topically in skin by Raman spectroscopy

We present the use of Raman spectroscopy for determination of functional characteristics of insect repellents and sunscreens by identifying the active ingredients of these products applied topically to the skin. Commercial formulations of insect repellents and sunscreens (SPF 15 and 30) were obtained, and Raman spectra were obtained from the formulations and from volunteers' skins with topical applications of such products compared to controls. The results indicated that, for insect repellents, the peaks at 527 and 1003  cm  -  1 were markers of the presence of the active ingredient diethyl toluamide in the skin, while for sunscreens, the peaks at 1177, 1288, and 1611  cm  -  1, associated to octinoxate, benzophenone-3, and avobenzone, were markers of the presence of solar filters in the skin. The results suggested reliability in the use of Raman spectroscopy to identify the active ingredients of insect repellents and sunscreens topically applied on the skin; the applied methodology can be used to determine the functional characteristics of topical products with similar characteristics.

Raman spectroscopy in pharmaceutical research and industry

In the fast-developing fields of pharmaceutical research and industry, the implementation of Raman spectroscopy and related technologies has been very well received due to the combination of chemical selectivity and the option for non-invasive analysis of samples. This chapter explores established and potential applications of Raman spectroscopy, confocal Raman microscopy and related techniques from the early stages of drug development research up to the implementation of these techniques in process analytical technology (PAT) concepts for large-scale production in the pharmaceutical industry. Within this chapter, the implementation of Raman spectroscopy in the process of selection and optimisation of active pharmaceutical ingredients (APIs) and investigation of the interaction with excipients is described. Going beyond the scope of early drug development, the reader is introduced to the use of Raman techniques for the characterization of complex drug delivery systems, highlighting the technical requirements and describing the analysis of qualitative and quantitative composition as well as spatial component distribution within these pharmaceutical systems. Further, the reader is introduced to the application of Raman techniques for performance testing of drug delivery systems addressing drug release kinetics and interactions with biological systems ranging from single cells up to complex tissues. In the last part of this chapter, the advantages and recent developments of integrating Raman technologies into PAT processes for solid drug delivery systems and biologically derived pharmaceutics are discussed, demonstrating the impact of the technique on current quality control standards in industrial production and providing good prospects for future developments in the field of quality control at the terminal part of the supply chain and various other fields like individualized medicine.

On the way from the active drug molecule (API) in the research laboratory to the marketed medicine in the pharmacy, therapeutic efficacy of the active molecule and safety of the final medicine for the patient are of utmost importance. For each step, strict regulatory requirements apply which demand for suitable analytical techniques to acquire robust data to understand and control design, manufacturing and industrial large-scale production of medicines. In this context, Raman spectroscopy has come to the fore due to the combination of chemical selectivity and the option for non-invasive analysis of samples. Following the technical advancements in Raman equipment and analysis software, Raman spectroscopy and microscopy proofed to be valuable methods with versatile applications in pharmaceutical research and industry, starting from the analysis of single drug molecules as well as complex multi-component formulations up to automatized quality control during industrial production.

Using Raman Spectroscopy in Studying the Effect of Propylene Glycol, Oleic Acid, and Their Combination on the Rat Skin

The permeability enhancement effect of oleic acid (OA) and propylene glycol (PG) as well as their (1:1 v/v) combined mixture was studied using rat skin. The percutaneous drug administration is a challenge and an opportunity for drug delivery. To date, there is limited research that illustrates the mechanism of penetration enhancers and their combinations on the skin. This project aims to explore the skin diffusion and penetration enhancement of PG, OA, and a combination of PG-OA (1:1 v/v) on rat skin and to identify the potential synergistic effect of the two enhancers utilizing Raman spectroscopy. Dissected dorsal skin was treated with either PG or OA or their combination for predetermined time intervals after which the Raman spectra of the treated skin were collected with the enhancer. A spectrum of the wiped and the washed skin were also collected. The skin integrity was tested before and after exposure to PG. The skin histology proved that the skin integrity has been maintained during experiments and the results indicated that OA disrupted rat skin lipid as evident by changes in the lipid peak. The results also showed that PG and OA improved the diffusion of each other and created faster, yet reversible changes of the skin peaks. In conclusion, Raman spectroscopy is a potential tool for ex vivo skin diffusion studies. We also concluded that PG and OA have potential synergistic reversible effect on the skin.

Human axillary skin condition is improved following incorporation of glycerol into the stratum corneum from an antiperspirant formulation

The study objectives were to demonstrate that glycerol, when topically applied from a roll-on antiperspirant formulation, can be delivered directly to human skin ex vivo and the axillary stratum corneum (SC) in vivo, and to assess whether it improves the quality of the axillary skin barrier. Ex vivo human skin absorption of glycerol was measured following application of a roll-on antiperspirant formulation containing 4% ¹³C₃-glycerol. Skin distribution of ¹³C₃-glycerol over 24 h was assessed using gas chromatography-mass spectrometry. In vivo axillary SC penetration was measured by confocal Raman spectroscopy and multivariate curve-resolution software 1 h after topical application of a roll-on antiperspirant formulation containing 8% deuterated glycerol (d₅-glycerol). A clinical study was conducted to determine the efficacy of a roll-on antiperspirant formulation containing 4% glycerol in reducing shaving-induced visual irritation and in increasing axillary-skin hydration. Ex vivo skin absorption studies indicated that the formulation delivered ¹³C₃-glycerol into the SC at all timepoints over the 24-h period. In vivo Raman measurements (1 h after application) demonstrated that d₅-glycerol was detectable to a depth of at least 10 μm in the axillary SC. Application of 4% glycerol from a roll-on antiperspirant formulation to the axilla was associated with significantly less visible irritation and greater skin hydration than observed with the control (glycerol-free) product. These studies demonstrate that glycerol, incorporated in a roll-on antiperspirant formulation, is delivered directly and rapidly to all depths of the axillary SC, and results in improvements in visible irritation and hydration in the axilla.

Stratum corneum modulation by chemical enhancers and lipid nanostructures: implications for transdermal drug delivery

Skin is the outermost and largest protective covering of the body. The uppermost layer of the skin, stratum corneum also called the horny layer is composed of keratin-filled cells covered by a lipid matrix which shields the skin from physical and chemical entrants. The lipid lamellar structure comprises of ceramides, cholesterol, fatty acids and proteins. Chemical enhancers that mimic the lamellar chemistry, reversibly fluidize the latter can be utilized for enhancing transport of cargo across the epidermis into the dermis. This review deals with the stratum corneum chemistry, mechanisms to modulate its packing with the aid of chemical enhancers, biophysical techniques for characterization and applications in the design of nature-inspired biocompatible lipid nanostructures for transdermal delivery of drugs and bioactive agents.

Frequency offset Raman spectroscopy (FORS) for depth probing of diffusive media

We present a new technique, frequency offset Raman spectroscopy (FORS), to probe Raman spectra of diffusive media in depth. The proposed methodology obtains depth sensitivity exploiting changes in optical properties (absorption and scattering) with excitation wavelengths. The approach was demonstrated experimentally on a two-layer tissue phantom and compared with the already consolidated spatially offset Raman spectroscopy (SORS) technique. FORS attains a similar enhancement of signal from deep layers as SORS, namely 2.81 against 2.62, while the combined hybrid FORS-SORS approach leads to a markedly higher 6.0 enhancement. Differences and analogies between FORS and SORS are discussed, suggesting FORS as an additional or complementary approach for probing heterogeneous media such as biological tissues in depth.

In vivo confocal Raman spectroscopy and molecular dynamics analysis of penetration of retinyl acetate into stratum corneum

OBJECTIVE

The purpose of this study is to elucidate the behavior of retinyl acetate in penetrating human skin without the presence of enhancers by using confocal Raman spectroscopy and molecular dynamics simulation.

METHODS

In this study, in vivo confocal Raman spectroscopy was combined with molecular dynamics simulation to investigate the transdermal permeation of the aqueous suspension of retinyl acetate.

RESULTS

Permeation was measured after 30min, and retinyl acetate was found up to 20μm deep inside the stratum corneum. The delivery of retinyl acetate inside a skin membrane model was studied by molecular dynamics. The membrane model that was used represented normal young skin containing a lipid bilayer with 25% ceramide, 36% fatty acid, 30% cholesterol, and 6% cholesterol sulfate.

CONCLUSION

Spectroscopy data indicate that retinyl acetate permeates into the stratum corneum. Molecular dynamics data showed that retinyl acetate permeates in the membrane model and that their final location is deep inside the lipid bilayer. We showed, for the first time, a correlation between Raman permeation data and computational data.

Understanding effects of topical ingredients on electrical measurement of skin hydration

OBJECTIVE

Methods that assess skin hydration based on changes in its electrical properties are widely used in both cosmetic and medical research. However, the devices themselves often give results which are significantly different to each other. Although some work has previously been carried out to try and understand what these devices are actually reading, it was based on a technique for measuring the devices' responses to filter discs impregnated with different liquids, which could in itself be influencing the measurements. Presented here is a new method for measuring the devices' direct responses to different materials and solutions which removes any other confounding effects, thereby providing a clearer insight into their operation.

METHODS

The responses of a variety of different liquids and solutions were measured using the Corneometer^® and Skicon^® . A new method is presented, based on the use of a custom-designed PTFE block to hold the liquids, allowing their measurement without using a filter paper. This method was developed and tested against the existing filter paper-based approach.

RESULTS

Differences were observed in results between filter paper- and PTFE block-based approach, indicating that the filter paper itself is capable of influencing the measurements and as such is not to be recommended for assessing how different liquids impact on results from the devices. A positive correlation was observed between Corneometer^® and Skicon^® readings for certain solutions and under certain conditions. A large influence of salt concentration was noted for the Skicon^® device with no or minimal impact from the actual water itself, humectants and emollients. Salts, emollients, water and humectants were observed to have an effect on Corneometer^® readings.

CONCLUSIONS

Both the Corneometer^® and Skicon^® were influenced to different extents by chemicals other than water and therefore cannot be seen purely as measures of skin 'hydration'. Although there is strong evidence that the devices do correlate with expert assessment of skin dryness, the level of water in the skin is only part of the story when it comes to understanding the benefits of topical moisturizing products applied to the skin. An alternative approach would be to consider skin 'moisturization' as a property which is influenced by water, salts and other materials such as humectants and emollients, which is more consistent with how the stratum corneum itself helps to maintain its plasticity and flexibility. In the work presented here, the Corneometer^® was more suited to providing a measurement which reflects the impact of multiple different components.

How Confocal Is Confocal Raman Microspectroscopy on the Skin? Impact of Microscope Configuration and Sample Preparation on Penetration Depth Profiles

BACKGROUND/AIMS

The aim of the study was to elucidate the effect of sample preparation and microscope configuration on the results of confocal Raman microspectroscopic evaluation of the penetration of a pharmaceutical active into the skin (depth profiling).

METHODS

Pig ear skin and a hydrophilic formulation containing procaine HCl were used as a model system. The formulation was either left on the skin during the measurement, or was wiped off or washed off prior to the analysis. The microscope configuration was varied with respect to objectives and pinholes used.

RESULTS

Sample preparation and microscope configuration had a tremendous effect on the results of depth profiling. Regarding sample preparation, the best results could be observed when the formulation was washed off the skin prior to the analysis. Concerning microscope configuration, the use of a 40 × 0.6 numerical aperture (NA) objective in combination with a 25-µm pinhole or a 100 × 1.25 NA objective in combination with a 50-µm pinhole was found to be advantageous.

CONCLUSION

Complete removal of the sample from the skin before the analysis was found to be crucial. A thorough analysis of the suitability of the chosen microscope configuration should be performed before acquiring concentration depth profiles.

Raman Spectroscopy: Incorporating the Chemical Dimension into Dermatological Diagnosis

Raman spectroscopy provides chemical analysis of tissue in vivo. By measuring the inelastic interactions of light with matter, Raman spectroscopy can determine the chemical composition of a sample. Diseases that are visually difficult to visually distinguish can be delineated based on differences in chemical composition of the affected tissue. Raman spectroscopy has successfully found spectroscopic signatures for skin cancers and differentiated those of benign skin growths. With current and on-going advances in optics and computing, inexpensive and effective Raman systems may soon be available for clinical use. Raman spectroscopy provides direct analyses of skin lesions, thereby improving both disease diagnosis and management.

Microspectroscopic Confocal Raman and Macroscopic Biophysical Measurements in the in vivo Assessment of the Skin Barrier: Perspective for Dermatology and Cosmetic Sciences

Skin barrier function, confined to the stratum corneum, is traditionally evaluated using established, noninvasive biophysical methods like transepidermal water loss, capacitance and conductance. However, these methods neither measure skin molecular composition nor its structure, hindering the actual causes of skin barrier change or impairment. At the same time, confocal Raman microspectroscopy (CRS) can directly measure skin molecular composition and structure and has proven itself to be a powerful technique for biomolecular analysis. The aims of this literature review were to evaluate noninvasive biophysical methods in view of CRS and to outline a direction towards more specific and informative skin measurement methods. We address this by investigating, for the first time, the relation between in vivo assessment of the skin barrier using indirect biophysical methods and the actual skin composition and structure as given by CRS, and emphasize the high potential of CRS for dermatology and cosmetic sciences. CRS acceptance in these fields will require close collaboration between dermatologists, skin scientists and spectroscopy experts towards simplifying the technology and creating robust, rapid, easy-to-use and less expensive CRS applications.

Preliminary evaluation of military, commercial and novel skin decontamination products against a chemical warfare agent simulant (methyl salicylate)

Rapid decontamination is vital to alleviate adverse health effects following dermal exposure to hazardous materials. There is an abundance of materials and products which can be utilised to remove hazardous materials from the skin. In this study, a total of 15 products were evaluated, 10 of which were commercial or military products and five were novel (molecular imprinted) polymers. The efficacies of these products were evaluated against a 10 µl droplet of (14)C-methyl salicylate applied to the surface of porcine skin mounted on static diffusion cells. The current UK military decontaminant (Fuller's earth) performed well, retaining 83% of the dose over 24 h and served as a benchmark to compare with the other test products. The five most effective test products were Fuller's earth (the current UK military decontaminant), Fast-Act® and three novel polymers [based on itaconic acid, 2-trifluoromethylacrylic acid and N,N-methylenebis(acrylamide)]. Five products (medical moist-free wipes, 5% FloraFree™ solution, normal baby wipes, baby wipes for sensitive skin and Diphotérine™) enhanced the dermal absorption of (14)C-methyl salicylate. Further work is required to establish the performance of the most effective products identified in this study against chemical warfare agents.

A Pilot Study of the Photoprotective Effects of Strawberry-Based Cosmetic Formulations on Human Dermal Fibroblasts

Strawberry polyphenols have been extensively studied over the last two decades for their beneficial properties. Recently, their possible use in ameliorating skin conditions has also been proposed; however, their role in preventing UVA-induced damage in cosmetic formulation has not yet been investigated. Skin is constantly exposed to several environmental stressors, such as UVA radiation, that induce oxidative stress, inflammation and cell death via the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS). In the present study, we assessed the potential photoprotective capacity of different strawberry-based formulations, enriched with nanoparticles of Coenzyme Q₁₀ and with sun protection factor 10 (SPF10), in human dermal fibroblasts (HuDe) exposed to UVA radiation. We confirmed that strawberries are a very rich source of polyphenols, anthocyanins and vitamins, and possess high total antioxidant capacity. We also showed that strawberry extracts (25 μg/mL–1 mg/mL) exert a noticeable photoprotection in HuDe, increasing cell viability in a dose-dependent way, and that these effects are potentiated by the presence of CoQ_10red (100 μg/mL). We have demonstrated for the first time that the topical use of strawberry extract may provide good photoprotection, even if more in-depth studies are strongly encouraged in order to evaluate the cellular and molecular effects of strawberry protection.

Raman imaging of drug delivery systems

This review article includes an introduction to the principals of Raman spectroscopy, an outline of the experimental systems used for Raman imaging and the associated important considerations and limitations of this method. Common spectral analysis methods are briefly described and examples of interesting published studies which utilised Raman imaging of pharmaceutical and biomedical devices are discussed, along with summary tables of the literature at this point in time.

Applications of Raman spectroscopy in skin research--From skin physiology and diagnosis up to risk assessment and dermal drug delivery

In the field of skin research, confocal Raman microscopy is an upcoming analytical technique. Substantial technical progress in design and performance of the individual setup components like detectors and lasers as well as the combination with confocal microscopy enables chemically selective and non-destructive sample analysis with high spatial resolution in three dimensions. Due to these advantages, the technique bears tremendous potential for diverse skin applications ranging from the analysis of physiological component distribution in skin tissue and the diagnosis of pathological states up to biopharmaceutical investigations such as drug penetration kinetics within the different tissue layers. This review provides a comprehensive introduction about the basic principles of Raman microscopy highlighting the advantages and considering the limitations of the technique for skin applications. Subsequently, an overview about skin research studies applying Raman spectroscopy is given comprising various in vitro as well as in vivo implementations. Furthermore, the future perspective and potential of Raman microscopy in the field of skin research are discussed.