Sunscreen tests: Correspondence between in vitro data and values reported by the manufacturers

Determining the ability to differentiate results between independent sun protection factor tests using the ISO24444 method

Introduction

The sun protection factor has nowadays become a familiar metric to understand sunscreen effectiveness. This value is displayed on the label of sunscreens and it is established by translating the results obtained from standardized testing methods to regulatory labeling criteria. The ISO24444, a widely accepted method to measure the sun protection factor, is designed to determine the validity of a single test, but it lacks criteria to compare results and many regulators only endorse the method as a valid means to label sunscreens. This supposes a challenge for manufacturers and regulators routinely using the method to take decisions on product labeling when confronted with disparate results for the same product.

Methods

Analytical review of the statistical criteria used by the method to determine test validity.

Results

For the same product, results from independent tests (of 10 subjects each) separated less than ×1.73 can be considered as the same from the point of view of compliance to the standard.

Conclusion

This range of sun protection factor values far exceeds the ranges for labeling and categorizing sunscreens as per current regulations and thus opens the possibility that sunscreens are unknowingly mislabeled. These findings can be summarized in a "discriminability map" to assist comparing results from different tests and to better inform the labeling of sunscreen products and thus increase confidence to prescribers and consumers.

Design, Synthesis and Evaluation of New Multifunctional Benzothiazoles as Photoprotective, Antioxidant and Antiproliferative Agents

A current trend of research in the health field is toward the discovery of multifunctional compounds, capable of interacting with multiple biological targets, thus simplifying multidrug therapies and improving patient compliance. The aim of this work was to synthesize new multifunctional chemical entities bearing a benzothiazole nucleus, a structure that has attracted increasing interest for the great variety of biological actions that it can perform, and already used as a scaffold in several multifunctional drugs. Compounds are reported, divided into two distinct series, synthetized and tested in vitro for the antioxidant, and include UV-filtering and antitumor activities. DPPH and FRAP tests were chosen to outline an antioxidant activity profile against different radical species. The UV-filtering activity was investigated, pre- and post-irradiation, through evaluation of a O/W sunscreen standard formulation containing 3% of the synthetic compounds. The antitumor activity was investigated both on human melanoma cells (Colo-38) and on immortalized human keratinocytes as a control (HaCat). A good antiproliferative profile in terms of IC₅₀ was chosen as a mandatory condition to further investigate apoptosis induction as a possible cytotoxicity mechanism through the Annexin V test. Compound BZTcin4 was endowed with excellent activity and a selectivity profile towards Colo-38, supported by a good antioxidant capacity and an excellent broad-spectrum photoprotective profile.

Environmental Fate and Toxicity of Sunscreen-Derived Inorganic Ultraviolet Filters in Aquatic Environments: A Review

An increasing number of inorganic ultraviolet filters (UVFs), such as nanosized zinc oxide (nZnO) and titanium dioxide (nTiO2), are formulated in sunscreens because of their broad UV spectrum sunlight protection and because they limit skin damage. However, sunscreen-derived inorganic UVFs are considered to be emerging contaminants; in particular, nZnO and nTiO2 UVFs have been shown to undergo absorption and bioaccumulation, release metal ions, and generate reactive oxygen species, which cause negative effects on aquatic organisms. We comprehensively reviewed the current study status of the environmental sources, occurrences, behaviors, and impacts of sunscreen-derived inorganic UVFs in aquatic environments. We find that the associated primary nanoparticle characteristics and coating materials significantly affect the environmental behavior and fate of inorganic UVFs. The consequential ecotoxicological risks and underlying mechanisms are discussed at the individual and trophic transfer levels. Due to their persistence and bioaccumulation, more attention and efforts should be redirected to investigating the sources, fate, and trophic transfer of inorganic UVFs in ecosystems.

Benzothiazole Derivatives as Multifunctional Antioxidant Agents for Skin Damage: Structure–Activity Relationship of a Scaffold Bearing a Five-Membered Ring System

Skin diseases often give multifactorial damages; therefore, the development of multifunctional compounds represents a suitable approach especially against disorders that are induced by oxidative stress. Thus, taking into account the successful results we achieved on benzimidazoles, we have devised a new series of isosteric benzothiazoles and investigated their antioxidant, photoprotective, antifungal and antiproliferative activity. Particular attention has been paid to synergistic antioxidant and photoprotective properties. For compounds 9a and 10a, a multifunctional profile was outlined, supported by an excellent filtering capacity, mainly UVB, which has higher capacities than those of the reference PBSA which is currently in the market as a UV sunscreen filter. The two compounds were also the best in terms of growth inhibition of dermatophytes and Candida albicans, and 10a also showed good antioxidant activity. Furthermore, 9a was also effective on melanoma tumor cells (SK-Mel 5), making these compounds good candidates in the development of new skin protective and preventive agents.

In vitro Assessment of Solar Filters for Erythropoietic Protoporphyria in the Action Spectrum of Protoporphyrin IX

Introduction: Subjects with erythropoietic protoporphyria rely on broad-spectrum sunscreens with high sun protection factor, which is not informative on efficacy in the absorption spectrum of protoporphyrin IX, spanning visible radiation and peaking around 408 nm. Photoactivation of protoporphyrin IX is responsible for painful skin photosensitivity in erythropoietic protoporphyria. The authors assessed the protective efficacy of six sunscreens in vitro in the absorption spectrum of protoporphyrin IX. Method: Transmittance measurements were performed in the 300-850 nm wavelengths on samples of six photoprotective products applied to polymethyl methacrylate plates. Porphyrin protection factor was calculated in the 300-700 nm region to provide a measurement for the efficacy of each product based on the action spectrum of protoporphyrin IX. Results: Product A showed the highest porphyrin protection factor among tested products with a median value of 4.22. Product A is a sunscreen containing organic filters, titanium dioxide and synthetic iron oxides, pigmentary grade active ingredients that absorb visible radiation. Other products showed inefficient protection in the visible, with transmittance between 75 and 95% at 500 nm. The low porphyrin protection factor of inorganic filter product B was attributed to particle micronization, as declared by the manufacturer. Conclusion: Adding porphyrin protection factor to sunscreen labeling could help patients with erythropoietic protoporphyria and other photosensitivity disorders identify products tailored on their specific needs. The development of sunscreens providing protection from visible radiation and excellent cosmetical tolerability could improve the lifestyle of patients with erythropoietic protoporphyria.

Photoprotective effect of the fucose-containing polysaccharide FucoPol

This study reports the performance of FucoPol, a fucose-containing bacterial polysaccharide, as a photostable agent with high absorption yield at concentrations as low as 0.02 % (w/v). FucoPol is non-cytotoxic, efficiently protects from UVA and UVB at concentrations of 0.02-2 % (w/v) and 0.2-2 % (w/v), respectively, has over 94 % overall photostability up to 1.5 h of irradiation time. The lowest concentration studied (0.02 %, w/v) shows a sun protection factor (SPF) of 2.61 ± 0.08. The SPF-to-concentration unit ratio showed that FucoPol is about 60-fold more photoprotective than combinations of common organic and inorganic UV filters. In vitro radiation exposure experiments of adhered Vero epithelial and PM1 keratinocytic cells in the presence of 0.25 % (w/v) FucoPol further showed that cell viability was preserved, and delayed radiation-induced cell death was prevented. Overall, FucoPol outperforms common cosmetic biopolymers like xanthan and fucogel. These results are very promising for the development of bio-based sunscreen formulations.

Sunscreens and their usefulness: have we made any progress in the last two decades?

Sunscreens have now been around for decades to mitigate the Sun's damaging ultraviolet (UV) radiation which, although essential for the existence of life, is a recognized prime carcinogen. Accordingly, have suncreams achieved their intended purposes towards protection against sunburns, skin photo-ageing and the like? Most importantly, however, have they provided the expected protection against skin cancers that current sunscreen products claim to do? In the last two decades, there have been tens, if not hundreds of studies on sunscreens with respect to skin protection against UVB (280‒320 nm)-traditionally sunscreens with rather low sun protection factors (SPF) were intended to protect against this type of radiation-and UVA (320‒400 nm) radiation; a distinction between SPF and UVA protection factor (UVA-PF) is made. Many of the studies of the last two decades have focused on protection against the more skin-penetrating UVA radiation. This non-exhaustive article reviews some of the important facets of what is currently known about sunscreens with regard (i) to the physical UV filters titanium dioxide (TiO₂) and zinc oxide (ZnO) and the mostly photo-unstable chemical UVB/UVA filters (e.g., octinoxate (OMC) and avobenzone (AVO), among others), (ii) to novel chemical sunscreen agents, (iii) to means that minimize the breakdown of chemical filters and improve their stability when exposed to UV sunlight, (iv) to SPF factors, and (v) to a short discussion on non-melanoma skin cancers and melanoma. Importantly, throughout the article we allude to the safety aspects of sunscreens and at the end ask the question: do active ingredients in sunscreen products pose a risk to human health, and what else can be done to enhance protection? Significant loss of skin protection from two well-known commercial suncreams when exposed to simulated UV sunlight. Cream I: titanium dioxide, ethylhexyl triazone, avobenzone, and octinoxate; Cream II: octyl salicylate, oxybenzone, avobenzone, and octinoxate.

The Involvement of Xanthone and (E)-Cinnamoyl Chromophores for the Design and Synthesis of Novel Sunscreening Agents

Excessive UV exposure contributes to several pathological conditions like skin burns, erythema, premature skin aging, photodermatoses, immunosuppression, and skin carcinogenesis. Effective protection from UV radiation may be achieved with the use of sunscreens containing UV filters. Currently used UV filters are characterized by some limitations including systemic absorption, endocrine disruption, skin allergy induction, and cytotoxicity. In the research centers all over the world new molecules are developed to improve the safety, photostability, solubility, and absorption profile of new derivatives. In our study, we designed and synthesized seventeen novel molecules by combining in the structures two chromophores: xanthone and (E)-cinnamoyl moiety. The ultraviolet spectroscopic properties of the tested compounds were confirmed in chloroform solutions. They acted as UVB or UVA/UVB absorbers. The most promising compound 9 (6-methoxy-9-oxo-9H-xanthen-2-yl)methyl (E)-3-(2,4-dimethoxyphenyl)acrylate) absorbed UV radiation in the range 290-369 nm. Its photoprotective activity and functional photostability were further evaluated after wet milling and incorporation in the cream base. This tested formulation with compound 9 possessed very beneficial UV protection parameters (SPFin vitro of 19.69 ± 0.46 and UVA PF of 12.64 ± 0.32) which were similar as broad-spectrum UV filter tris-biphenyl triazine. Additionally, compound 9 was characterized by high values of critical wavelength (381 nm) and UVA/UVB ratio (0.830) thus it was a good candidate for broad-spectrum UV filter and it might protect skin against UVA-induced photoaging. Compound 9 were also shown to be photostable, non-cytotoxic at concentrations up to 50 µM when tested on five cell lines, and non-mutagenic in Ames test. It also possessed no estrogenic activity, according to the results of MCF-7 breast cancer model. Additionally, its favorable lipophilicity (miLogP = 5.62) does not predispose it to penetrate across the skin after topical application.

Skin Damages-Structure Activity Relationship of Benzimidazole Derivatives Bearing a 5-Membered Ring System

In the search for scaffolds for multifunctional compounds we investigated the structure activity relationship of a class of benzimidazole derivatives bearing 5-membered ring. The newly synthesized and the already known compounds were divided into three classes that present different substituent at 5 position of the benzimidazole ring (-H, -COOH or –SO₃H) and different heterocycle at position 2 (thiophene, furan or pyrrole). All the derivatives were synthesized and tested to determine their photoprotective profile against UV rays, in vitro antioxidant capacity against different radicals (DPPH and FRAP test), antifungal inhibitory activity (dermatophytes and Candida albicans), antiviral and antiproliferative activity. A Structure-Activity Relationship study indicated compound 10, bearing a pyrrole heterocycle on the benzimidazole ring, as the best multifunctional derivative of the series and as potential candidate for the development of drugs especially in case of melanoma.

Design, synthesis and evaluation of benzothiazole derivatives as multifunctional agents

Oxidative stress is the product or aetiology of various multifactorial diseases; on the other hand, the development of multifunctional compounds is a recognized strategy for the control of complex diseases. To this end, a series of benzothiazole derivatives was synthesized and evaluated for their multifunctional effectiveness as antioxidant, sunscreen (filter), antifungal and antiproliferative agents. Compounds were easily synthesized via condensation reaction between 2-aminothiophenols and different benzaldehydes. SAR study, particularly in position 2 and 6 of benzothiazoles, led to the identification of 4g and 4k as very interesting potential compounds for the design of multifunctional drugs. In particular, compound 4g is the best blocker of hERG potassium channels expressed in HEK 293 cells exhibiting 60.32% inhibition with IC₅₀ = 4.79 μM.

Discovery of Novel UV-Filters with Favorable Safety Profiles in the 5-Arylideneimidazolidine-2,4-dione Derivatives Group

Effective protection from the harmful effects of UV radiation may be achieved by using sunscreens containing organic or inorganic UV filters. The number of currently available UV filters is limited and some of the allowed molecules possess limitations such as systemic absorption, endocrine disruption properties, contact and photocontact allergy induction, and low photostability. In the search for new organic UV filters we designed and synthesized a series consisting of 5-benzylidene and 5-(3-phenylprop-2-en-1-ylidene)imidazolidine-2,4-dione (hydantoin) derivatives. The photoprotective activity of the tested compounds was confirmed in methanol solutions and macrogol formulations. The most promising compounds possessed similar UV protection parameter values as selected commercially available UV filters. The compound diethyl 2,2'-((Z)-4-((E)-3-(4-methoxyphenyl)allylidene)-2,5-dioxoimidazolidine-1,3-diyl)diacetate (4g) was characterized as an especially efficient UVA photoprotective agent with a UVA PF of 6.83 ± 0.05 and favorable photostability. Diethyl 2,2'-((Z)-4-(4-methoxybenzylidene)-2,5-dioxo- imidazolidine-1,3-diyl)diacetate (3b) was the most promising UVB-filter, with a SPFin vitro of 3.07 ± 0.04 and very good solubility and photostability. The main photodegradation products were geometric isomers of the parent compounds. These compounds were also shown to be non-cytotoxic at concentrations up to 50 µM when tested on three types of human skin cells and possess no estrogenic activity, according to the results of a MCF-7 breast cancer model.

UVA, metabolism and melanoma: UVA makes melanoma hungry for metastasis

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation has a plethora of effects on human tissues. In the UV spectrum, wavelengths above 320 nm fall into the UVA range, and for these, it has been shown that they induce reactive oxygen species (ROS), DNA mutations and are capable to induce melanoma in mice. In addition to this, it was recently shown that UVA irradiation and UVA-induced ROS also increase glucose metabolism of melanoma cells. UVA irradiation causes a persistent increase in glucose consumption, accompanied by increased glycolysis, increased lactic acid production and activation of the pentose phosphate pathway. Furthermore, it was shown that the enhanced secretion of lactic acid is important for invasion of melanoma in vitro. The current knowledge of this link between UVA, metabolism and melanoma, possible mechanisms of UVA-induced glucose metabolism and their starting points are discussed in this review with focus on ROS- and UVA-induced cellular stress signalling, DNA damage signalling and DNA repair systems. When looking at the benefits of UVA-induced glucose metabolism, it becomes apparent that there are more advantages of these metabolic changes than one would expect. Besides the role of lactic acid as initiator of protease expression and invasion, its role for immune escape of melanoma cells and the pentose phosphate pathway-derived nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide phosphate (NADPH) as part of a ROS detoxification strategy are discussed.

Naringenin improves the sunscreen performance of vegetable nanocarriers

Naringenin enhances the UV protection, photostability and cell viability of lipid based vegetable nanocarriers.

Effect of preparation and processing conditions on UV absorbing properties of hydroxyapatite-Fe2O3 sunscreen

The development of innovative, safe and non-photocatalytic sunscreens is urgently needed, as it is essential to have sunscreen filters offering appropriate UV protection without damaging the environment and/or generating free radicals when in contact with the skin. Hydroxyapatite (Ca₁₀(PO₄)₆(OH)₂, HAp) when substituted with iron has UV protection properties and is not photocatalytic; HAp was used to make a sunscreen filter by treating cod fish bones in an iron-containing solution, and then calcining them at 700°C. Here we present a systematic and advanced study on this material, to obtain a sunscreen with improved UV absorbing properties. Bones were treated with three different iron salts - Fe(II) chloride, Fe(II) lactate and Fe(III) nitrate - under various pH conditions. Results showed that Fe(II) chloride in basic pH led to the most effective iron inclusion. High energy ball milling or ultrasound were investigated to increase surface area and corresponding UV absorption; high energy ball milling treatment led to the best optical properties. The optimum powders were used to formulate UV protection creams, which showed Sun Protection Factor (SPF) values significantly superior to the control cream (up to 4.1). Moreover the critical wavelength (λ_crit) was >370nm (388-389nm) and UVA/UVB ratios were very close to 1. With these properties these sunscreens can be classified as broad UV protectors. Results also showed that combining these powders with other sunscreens (i.e. titanium dioxide), a synergic effect between the different components was also observed. This investigation showed that HAp-based sunscreens of marine origin are a valid alternative to commercial products, safe for the health of the customers and, being non-photocatalytic, do not pose a threat to the environment.

A hydroxyapatite-Fe2O3 based material of natural origin as an active sunscreen filter

The use of sunscreens as protective barriers against skin damage and cancer, by absorbing harmful UVA and UVB rays, is becoming an increasingly important issue. Such products are usually based on TiO₂ or ZnO, although both Fe₂O₃ and hydroxyapatite (Ca₁₀(PO₄)₆(OH)₂, HAp) doped with metal ions have been reported as being ultraviolet (UV) absorbing materials. HAp is the main component of bone; it is, therefore, highly biocompatible. In the present work, an iron-doped HAp-based material, containing both Fe ions substituted into the HAp structure and iron oxide in hematite (α-Fe₂O₃) form, was successfully developed from waste cod fish bones. This was achieved through a simple process of treating the bones in a Fe(ii) containing solution, followed by heating at 700 °C. The material showed good absorption in the whole UV range and did not form radicals when irradiated. The sunscreen cream formulated with this material could be used as a broad sunscreen protector (λ_crit > 370 nm), showing high absorption both in the UVA and UVB ranges. Because of its absorption properties it would be classified as 5 star protection according to the Boots UVA star rating system. The cream is also photostable, and does not cause irritation or erythema formation when in contact with the human skin. These results show that a food by-product such as fish bones could be converted into a valuable product, with potential applications in health care and cosmetics. This is the first time a HAp-based sunscreen cream has been developed and validated as a proof of concept.

In vitro evaluation of sunscreens: an update for the clinicians

Topical sunscreens contain molecules or molecular complexes that can absorb, reflect, or scatter UV photons. Evaluation of the efficacy of sunscreen products has been made through the Sun Protection Factor (SPF), a mean of quantitatively assessing in vivo the degree of protection offered by sunscreen products against solar radiation. In vivo evaluation of SPF has several drawbacks. First of all, this evaluation method is expensive in terms of money and time. Moreover, it raises several ethical issues concerning the potential damage to skin volunteers. Several in vitro techniques have been developed, but at present there is no broadly accepted method. In this paper, we will discuss some of the recent advances concerning the in vitro evaluation of sunscreens which would be acceptable for replacing in vivo assays.

How to guarantee adequate sun protection for a young sportsperson

BACKGROUND

Young male athletes involved in sports like soccer are subject to sun exposure which can often be intense because of the timing and duration of their practice time.

PATIENTS AND METHODS

The goal of this work was to study using a spectrophoto-metric method what level of sun protection was provided by the various articles of clothing which make up a standard soccer uniform, as well as by the cosmetics used by fan clubs.

RESULTS

We were able to demonstrate that the sports clothing does guarantee a good level of protection for the skin areas covered.

CONCLUSIONS

Depending on the type of clothing, the level of sun protection will vary greatly, with UPF values ranging from 30 for a T-shirt to 300 for a club shirt. This type of protection is higher than that obtained by sun creams and does not change over time.

Comparative evaluation of different substrates for the in vitro determination of sunscreen photostability: spectrophotometric and HPLC analyses

Polymethylmethacrylate (PMMA) plates and Transpore(TM) tapes were compared as substrates for the in vitro evaluation of photostability of commercial sunscreen products. The sun care preparations were applied respectively on Transpore(TM) tapes and PMMA plates and their sun protection factors (SPF) and UVA protection parameters [UVA/UVB ratio, critical wavelength, UVA protection factor (UVA-PF)] were measured by transmission spectroscopy, before and after irradiation with simulated sunlight. No significant differences were observed in the UV protection parameters measured on Transpore(TM) tapes or PMMA plates, before exposure to the solar simulator. Conversely, after irradiation, the SPF values of the sun care products exhibited marked variations between the two substrates, the decrease in SPF being greater on PMMA plates (31.3-63.1%) than on Transpore(TM) tapes (10.4-23.8%). Differences between the two substrates were detected also for the UVA protection parameters, although they were significant only for the UVA-PF. The tested samples were assayed also by high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) to assess the extent of photodegradation of the UV filters present in the examined formulations. The results showed that for the PMMA plates, the light-induced decrease in SPF, as determined by spectrophotometry, fitted well with the percentage loss of ethyl hexyl methoxycinnamate (the only photounstable UVB filter present) measured by HPLC. Moreover, for the PMMA substrate, the UVA-PF percentage reduction was consistent with the percentage degradation of butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (the only photounstable UVA filter present) determined by HPLC. On the other hand, poor correlation between spectrophotometric and HPLC analyses was observed on Transpore(TM) tapes. Therefore, PMMA plates are more reliable than Transpore(TM) tapes as substrates for in vitro photodegradation tests of sunscreen products by transmission spectroscopy.