Lipid ingredients in moisturizers can modulate skin responses to UV in barrier-disrupted human skin in vivo

The Role of Linoleic Acid in Skin and Hair Health: A Review

Lipids are intimately associated with skin condition. This review aims to discuss the function of linoleic acid (LA, 18:2, ω-6), an essential fatty acid, in skin health and hair growth. In skin, LA can be metabolized into ω-6 unsaturated fatty acid, oxidized derivatives and incorporated into complex lipid molecules, including ω-hydroxy-ceramides. Previous research has revealed that skin diseases including acne, atopic dermatitis and psoriasis are associated with disordered LA metabolism. Studies based on animal or skin cell models suggest that LA or LA-rich vegetable oils, topically applied, exhibit diverse biological activities, including the repair of the skin barrier, the promotion of wound healing, skin whitening, photoprotection, anti-inflammatory effects and the stimulation of hair growth. Moreover, the underlying mechanisms of LA's beneficial effects on skin are summarized. Further research on the correlation of LA metabolism and skin disorders, a deeper exploration of the mechanisms underlying the function of LA in skin management and more investigations of its clinical application are required to enhance the understanding and utilization of LA in cosmetics and pharmaceuticals.

Simultaneous Extraction of Oil and Protein from Silkworm (Bombyx mori L.) Pupae (Lueng Parroj var.) and Their In Vitro Skin Moisturization

Oil and protein from silkworm (Bombyx mori var. Leung Pairoj) pupae, by-product from sericulture, were extracted and evaluated for their potential uses as skin biomoisturizer. The silkworm pupae (SWP) oil and protein were simultaneously extracted by using three-phase partitioning (TPP) method and determined for their physicochemical properties including fatty acid and amino acid content, respectively. The highest yields of oil and protein at 8.24 ± 0.21% and 8.41 ± 0.26% w/w, respectively were obtained from 18 h extraction. Fatty acid analysis of SWP oil was rich in linolenic acid (37.81 ± 0.34%), oleic acid (28.97 ± 0.13%), palmitic acid (21.27 ± 0.05%), stearic acid (6.60 ± 0.09%) and linoleic acid (4.73 ± 0.21%). The clear yellow SWP oil possessed saponification value of 191.51 mg/g, iodine value of 119.37 g I2/g and peroxide value of 2.00 mg equivalent O2/kg. The SWP protein composed of 17 amino acids which aspartic acid, glutamic acid, glycine and serine were the major residues. SDS-PAGE analysis revealed that the SWP protein consisted of distinct protein at around 51, 70, 175 and over 175 kDa. Cytotoxicity of the SWP oil and protein was evaluated by using MTT assay and they showed low cytotoxicity toward keratinocyte cell (HaCat cell line). The SWP oil provided moisturizing effect on pig skin comparable to olive oil, while 1% and 2% of SWP protein showed higher moisturizing efficacy than 3% hydrolyzed collagen. The study indicated that the SWP oil and protein could be potential biomoisturizers for cosmetic products.

Natural products in cosmetics

The global cosmetics market reached US$500 billion in 2017 and is expected to exceed US$800 billion by 2023, at around a 7% annual growth rate. The cosmetics industry is emerging as one of the fastest-growing industries of the past decade. Data shows that the Chinese cosmetics market was US$60 billion in 2021. It is expected to be the world's number one consumer cosmetics market by 2050, with a size of approximately US$450 billion. The influence of social media and the internet has raised awareness of the risks associated with the usage of many chemicals in cosmetics and the health benefits of natural products derived from plants and other natural resources. As a result, the cosmetic industry is now paying more attention to natural products. The present review focus on the possible applications of natural products from various biological sources in skin care cosmetics, including topical care products, fragrances, moisturizers, UV protective, and anti-wrinkle products. In addition, the mechanisms of targets for evaluation of active ingredients in cosmetics and the possible benefits of these bioactive compounds in rejuvenation and health, and their potential role in cosmetics are also discussed.

Skin biophysical properties including impaired skin barrier function determine ultraviolet sensitivity

BACKGROUND

The levels of burning susceptibility to ultraviolet (UV) radiations are affected by various factors, including Fitzpatrick skin types, skin color, sex, and ethnicity. However, studies on the relationship between skin biophysical properties and erythemal responses to UV radiations are rare.

OBJECTIVE

This study aimed to investigate biophysical properties of the skin that determined individual skin sensitivity to UV radiation.

METHODS

As an indicator of skin sensitivity to UV radiation, Korean women were subjected to minimal erythema dose (MED) testing. The skin biophysical properties, such as skin hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL) were measured. MED were also evaluated in further variations in the skin, including barrier disruption.

RESULTS

A significant negative correlation was observed between TEWL and MED. With an increase in TEWL, that represents reduced skin barrier function, skin UV sensitivity also increased. Artificial alteration of skin conditions also changed erythemal response to UV radiation. When the skin barrier was disrupted, MED significantly decreased, indicating increased skin UV sensitivity. It is hypothesized that the altered penetration of UV radiation into the stratum corneum under the respective skin conditions caused different erythema reactions.

CONCLUSION

For the first time in a clinical study, the skin biophysical properties, including skin barrier function, were found to have significant effects on skin sensitivity to UV radiation. This finding could help predict individual susceptibility to UV damage. Therefore, skincare products that improve skin conditions associated with UV sensitivity, as well as sunscreen are important for protection against the hazards of UV radiation.

Clinical significance of the water retention and barrier function-improving capabilities of ceramide-containing formulations: A qualitative review

A decrease in the ceramide content of the stratum corneum is known to cause dry and barrier-disrupted skin. In this literature review, the clinical usefulness of preparations containing natural or synthetic ceramides for water retention and barrier functions was evaluated. The PubMed, Cochrane Library, and Igaku Chuo Zasshi databases were searched using keywords such as "ceramide", "skincare products", "barrier + hydration + moisture + skin", and "randomized trial". All database searches were conducted in February 2019. Forty-one reports were selected based on the following criterion: comparative control studies that evaluated the effects of ceramide-containing formulations based on statistical evidence. Among the 41 reports, 12 were selected using the patient, intervention, comparison, and outcome approach. These 12 reports showed that external ceramide-containing preparations can improve dry skin and barrier function in patients with atopic dermatitis. However, a double-blinded comparative study with a large sample size is warranted for appropriate clinical use.

Topical ceramides neither enhance UVB-induced apoptosis in normal human keratinocytes nor affect viability in UVB-irradiated reconstructed human epidermis

Ceramides are the major lipid of lamellar sheets present in intercellular spaces of the stratum corneum contributing to epidermal barrier properties. Therefore, ceramides and their analogues have been studied for barrier enhancing and water-holding properties for decades. In vitro studies have indicated cytotoxic potential for cell-permeable ceramides thereby raising the question whether topical ceramide application might contribute to UVB-induced apoptosis. Phytosphingosine, N-hexanoyl-phytosphingosine and N-stearoylphytosphingosine (ceramide III) in concentrations ≤5 μm have been used for co-stimulation with low (160 J/m(2) ) or high (600 J/m(2) ) UVB doses in subconfluent basal and confluent differentiating keratinocytes. Significantly, increased caspase-3 activity was observed in basal keratinocytes irradiated with 600 J/m(2) UVB and in differentiating keratinocytes with both UVB doses. Co-stimulation with the named ceramides did not further increase (i) caspase-3 activity and (ii) nucleosomal fragmentation in differentiating keratinocytes. Moreover, co-stimulation with 1-mm ceramides did not further affect viability/lactate dehydrogenase release in UVB-irradiated reconstructed human epidermis corroborating the safety of these ceramides.