Effects of rhododendrol and its metabolic products on melanocytic cell growth

Progression from in vivo validation to in vitro screening in hazard assessment for leukoderma-inducible chemicals

Chemicals are representative environmental factors that affect human health. Recently, external exposure to a chemical of rhododenol (RD) caused chemical leukoderma, an acquired patchy hypopigmentation, in about 20,000 Asian people. The development of a hazard assessment system for accurate determination of leukoderma-inducible chemicals is required for the prevention of such tragedies. Case studies in humans have shown 6 chemicals, including RD, with a constitutive leukoderma-inducible potency and 3 chemicals with a photosensitive but not a constitutive leukoderma-inducible potency. In this study, the 6 positive and 3 negative control chemicals with or without constitutive leukoderma-inducible potencies were investigated by our previously developed in vivo hazard assessment system using tail skin of mice. Based on the results of validation, this study aimed to develop an in vitro hazard assessment system to correctly determine chemicals with a constitutive leukoderma-inducible potency. As expected, external exposure to the 6 positive control chemicals, but not external exposure to the 3 negative control chemicals, resulted in development of constitutive leukoderma in mouse tail skin with a decreased level of skin melanin and decreased number of melanocytes. Moreover, the 6 positive and 3 negative control chemicals were correctly distinguished by the presence or absence of endoplasmic reticulum (ER) stress induction, but not by tyrosinase-dependent cell death or production of reactive oxygen species (ROS), in immortalized normal melanocytes. The hazard assessment system using tail skin could be a solid in vivo tool to reliably determine the chemical potency of a chemical for constitutive leukoderma induction. The hazard assessment system focusing on ER stress induction in normal melanocytes might be a novel and convenient in vitro tool for accurately evaluating chemicals with leukoderma-inducible potencies. Thus, this study contributed to environmentology through the development of a screening system for preventing an environmental factor-related disease.

Metabolic gene signature in white adipose tissue of oral doses raspberry ketone [4-(4-hydroxyphenyl)-2-butanone] that prevent diet-induced weight gain and induce loss of righting reflex

Raspberry ketone (RK; [4-(4-hydroxyphenyl)-2-butanone]) is a synthetic flavoring agent and dietary supplement for weight control. This study investigated the metabolic signature of oral doses of RK that prevent weight gain or promote loss of righting reflex (LORR) in C57Bl/6J mice. Daily RK 200 mg/kg prevented high-fat diet (HFD; 45% Kcal fat) fed weight gain (∼8% reduction) over 35 days. RNA-seq of inguinal white adipose tissue (WAT) performed in males revealed 12 differentially expressed genes. Apelin (Apln) and potassium voltage-gated channel subfamily C member (Kcnc3) expression were elevated with HFD and normalized with RK dosing, which was confirmed by qPCR. Acute RK 640 mg/kg produced a LORR with a <5 min onset with a >30 min duration. Acute RK 200 mg/kg increased gene expression of Apln, Kcnc3, and nuclear factor erythroid 2-related factor 2 (Nrf2), but reduced acetyl-COA carboxylase (Acc1) and NAD(P)H quinone dehydrogenase 1 (Nqo1) in inguinal WAT. Acute RK 640 mg/kg elevated interleukin 6 (Il 6) and heme oxygenase 1 (Hmox1) expression, but reduced Nrf2 in inguinal and epididymal WAT. Our findings suggest that RK has a dose-dependent metabolic signature in WAT associated with either weight control or LORR.

A cell-based evaluation of human tyrosinase-mediated metabolic activation of leukoderma-inducing phenolic compounds

BACKGROUND

Chemical leukoderma is a skin depigmentation disorder induced through contact with certain chemicals, most of which have a p-substituted phenol structure similar to the melanin precursor tyrosine. The tyrosinase-catalyzed oxidation of phenols to highly reactive o-quinone metabolites is a critical step in inducing leukoderma through the production of melanocyte-specific damage and immunological responses.

OBJECTIVE

Our aim was to find an effective method to evaluate the formation of o-quinone by human tyrosinase and subsequent cellular reactions.

METHODS

Human tyrosinase-expressing 293T cells were exposed to various phenolic compounds, after which the reactive o-quinones generated were identified as adducts of cellular thiols. We further examined whether the o-quinone formation induces reductions in cellular GSH or viability.

RESULTS

Among the chemicals tested, all 7 leukoderma-inducing phenols/catechol (rhododendrol, raspberry ketone, monobenzone, 4-tert-butylphenol, 4-tert-butylcatechol, 4-S-cysteaminylphenol and p-cresol) were oxidized to o-quinone metabolites and were detected as adducts of cellular glutathione and cysteine, leading to cellular glutathione reduction, whereas 2-S-cysteaminylphenol and 4-n-butylresorcinol were not. In vitro analysis using a soluble variant of human tyrosinase revealed a similar substrate-specificity. Some leukoderma-inducing phenols exhibited tyrosinase-dependent cytotoxicity in this cell model and in B16BL6 melanoma cells where tyrosinase expression was effectively modulated by siRNA knockdown.

CONCLUSION

We developed a cell-based metabolite analytical method to detect human tyrosinase-catalyzed formation of o-quinone from phenolic compounds by analyzing their thiol-adducts. The detailed analysis of each metabolite was superior in sensitivity and specificity compared to cytotoxicity assays for detecting known leukoderma-inducing phenols, providing an effective strategy for safety evaluation of chemicals.

Human milk oligosaccharide 2'-fucosyllactose promotes melanin degradation via the autophagic AMPK-ULK1 signaling axis

There is still an unmet need for development of safer antimelanogenic or melanin-degrading agents for skin hyperpigmentation, induced by intrinsic or extrinsic factors including aging or ultraviolet irradiation. Owing to the relatively low cytotoxicity compared with other chemical materials, several studies have explored the role of 2'-fucosyllactose (2'-FL), the most dominant component of human milk oligosaccharides. Here, we showed that 2'-FL reduced melanin levels in both melanocytic cells and a human skin equivalent three-dimensional in vitro model. Regarding the cellular and molecular mechanism, 2'-FL induced LC3I conversion into LC3II, an autophagy activation marker, followed by the formation of LC3II⁺/PMEL⁺ autophagosomes. Comparative transcriptome analysis provided a comprehensive understanding for the up- and downstream cellular processes and signaling pathways of the AMPK–ULK1 signaling axis triggered by 2'-FL treatment. Moreover, 2'-FL activated the phosphorylation of AMPK at Thr172 and of ULK1 at Ser555, which were readily reversed in the presence of dorsomorphin, a specific AMPK inhibitor, with consequent reduction of the 2'-FL-mediated hypopigmentation. Taken together, these findings demonstrate that 2'-FL promotes melanin degradation by inducing autophagy through the AMPK–ULK1 axis. Hence, 2'-FL may represent a new natural melanin-degrading agent for hyperpigmentation.

Jelly Fig (Ficus awkeotsang Makino) Exhibits Antioxidative and Anti-Inflammatory Activities by Regulating Reactive Oxygen Species Production via NFκB Signaling Pathway

Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities of Ficus awkeotsang Makino extract (FAE) on Hs68 fibroblasts and BALB/c nude-mouse models are evaluated in this study. FAE was found to be non-toxic and showed high levels of DPPH, H₂O₂, and hydroxyl radical scavenging abilities; a ferrous chelating capacity; as well as ferric-reducing antioxidant capability. The antioxidant activity of FAE was strongly associated with polyphenolic content (flavonoids at 10.3 mg QE g⁻¹ and total phenol at 107.6 mg GAE g⁻¹). The anti-inflammatory activity of FAE and the underlying molecular mechanisms were also investigated. The a* value of the mouse dorsal skin after treatment with FAE at 1.5 mg/mL in addition to chronic UVB exposure was found to decrease by 19.2% during a ten-week period. The anti-inflammatory effect of FAE was evidenced by the decreased accumulation of inflammatory cells and skin thickness. Expression levels of UVB-induced inflammatory proteins, including ROS, NF-κB, iNOS, COX-2, and IL-6, were significantly reduced upon FAE treatment in vitro and in vivo. Collectively, our results suggest that the inhibition of ROS and UVB-induced activation of the NF-κB downstream signaling pathway by FAE, indicating considerable potential as a versatile adjuvant against free radical damage in pharmaceutical applications.

Zebrafish as a new model for rhododendrol-induced leukoderma

Idiopathic leukoderma is a skin disorder characterized by patchy loss of skin pigmentation due to melanocyte dysfunction or deficiency. Rhododendrol (RD) was approved as a cosmetic ingredient in Japan in 2008. However, it was shown to induce leukoderma in approximately 20,000 customers. The prediction of cytotoxicity, especially to melanocytes in vivo, is required to avoid such adverse effects. Since the use of higher vertebrates is prohibited for medicinal and toxicological assays, we used zebrafish, whose melanocytes were regulated by mechanisms similar to mammals. Zebrafish larvae were treated with RD in breeding water for 3 days, which caused body lightening accompanied by a decrease in the number of melanophores. Interestingly, black particles were found at the bottom of culture dishes, suggesting that the melanophores peeled off from the body. In addition, RT-PCR analysis suggested that the mRNA levels of melanophore-specific genes were significantly low. An increase in the production of reactive oxygen species was found in larvae treated with RD. The treatments of the fish with other phenol compounds, which have been reported to cause leukoderma, also induced depigmentation and melanophore loss. These results suggest that zebrafish larvae could be used for the evaluation of leukoderma caused by chemicals, including RD.

Rhododendrol-induced leukoderma update II: Pathophysiology, mechanisms, risk evaluation, and possible mechanism-based treatments in comparison with vitiligo

A small proportion of individuals utilizing cosmetics containing rhododendrol developed leukoderma with various pathological conditions, in some cases indistinguishable from vitiligo. In this review, we investigate and evaluate the major considerations for developing rhododendrol‐induced leukoderma based on data from original or review articles published in the literature to provide a wide range of information regarding the pathophysiology, mechanisms, risk evaluation, and possible mechanism‐based treatments. We compile and discuss the latest information, including data related to the cytotoxicity of rhododendrol, cytoprotective functions, and involvement of the immune system, and consider the possibility of novel treatments based on the differences between individual patients and on the mechanism underlying the onset of the condition. Understanding the pathophysiology of rhododendrol‐induced leukoderma helps not only elucidate the mechanisms of non‐segmental vitiligo onset and progression, but also suggests prevention and treatment.

The Organogermanium Compound THGP Suppresses Melanin Synthesis via Complex Formation with L-DOPA on Mushroom Tyrosinase and in B16 4A5 Melanoma Cells

The organogermanium compound 3-(trihydroxygermyl)propanoic acid (THGP) has various biological activities. We previously reported that THGP forms a complex with cis-diol structures. L-3,4-Dihydroxyphenylalanine (L-DOPA), a precursor of melanin, contains a cis-diol structure in its catechol skeleton, and excessive melanin production causes skin darkening and staining. Thus, the cosmetic field is investigating substances that suppress melanin production. In this study, we investigated whether THGP inhibits melanin synthesis via the formation of a complex with L-DOPA using mushroom tyrosinase and B16 4A5 melanoma cells. The ability of THGP to interact with L-DOPA was analyzed by 1H-NMR, and the influence of THGP and/or kojic acid on melanin synthesis was investigated. We also examined the effect of THGP on cytotoxicity, tyrosinase activity, and gene expression and found that THGP interacted with L-DOPA, a precursor of melanin with a cis-diol structure. The results also showed that THGP inhibited melanin synthesis, exerted a synergistic effect with kojic acid, and did not affect tyrosinase activity or gene expression. These results suggest that THGP is a useful substrate that functions as an inhibitor of melanogenesis and that its effect is enhanced by combination with kojic acid.

Human Skin Lightening Efficacy of Resveratrol and Its Analogs: From in Vitro Studies to Cosmetic Applications

Antioxidants are deemed useful in controlling oxidative stress associated with extrinsic skin aging and pigmentation disorders. Resveratrol is a polyphenol compound found in many edible plants such as Vitis vinifera, and its inhibitory effects on the catalytic activity, gene expression, and posttranslational modifications of tyrosinase, a key enzyme in the melanin biosynthetic pathway, provide a mechanistic basis for its antimelanogenic effects seen in melanocytic cells, three-dimensionally reconstituted skin models, and in vivo animal models. As a potent antioxidant and a modulator of nuclear factor erythroid 2-related factor 2 (Nrf2), and sirtuin 1, resveratrol can also regulate multiple signaling pathways associated with inflammation and premature aging. Recent clinical studies have supported the efficacy of resveratrol and its analogs, such as resveratryl triacetate (RTA) and resveratryl triglycolate (RTG), in human skin lightening and antiaging. These findings suggest that resveratrol and its analogs are potentially useful as skin lightening and antiaging agents in cosmetics.

4-(4-Hydroxyphenyl)-2-butanol (rhododendrol)-induced melanocyte cytotoxicity is enhanced by UVB exposure through generation of oxidative stress

4-(4-Hydroxyphenyl)-2-butanol (rhododendrol, RD), a skin-whitening agent, was reported to cause skin depigmentation in some users, which is attributed to its cytotoxicity to melanocyte. It was reported that cytotoxicity to melanocyte is possibly mediated by oxidative stress in a tyrosinase activity-dependent manner. We examined the effect of UV radiation (UVR) on RD-induced melanocyte cytotoxicity as an additional aggravating factor. UVR enhanced RD-induced cytotoxicity in normal human epidermal melanocytes (NHEMs) via the induction of endoplasmic reticulum (ER) stress. Increased generation of intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) was detected. Pretreatment with N-acetyl cysteine (NAC), antioxidant and precursor of glutathione significantly attenuated ER stress-induced cytotoxicity in NHEMs treated with RD and UVR. Increase in cysteinyl-RD-catechol and RD-pheomelanin in NHEMs treated with RD and UVR suggested that, after UVR excitation, RD or RD metabolites are potent ROS-generating substances and that the tendency to produce RD-pheomelanin during melanogenesis amplifies ROS generation in melanocytes. Our results help to elucidate the development mechanisms of RD-induced leukoderma and provide information for innovation of safe skin-whitening compounds.

Resveratrol as a Multifunctional Topical Hypopigmenting Agent

Melanin is produced in melanocytes and stored in melanosomes, after which it is transferred to keratinocytes and, thus, determines skin color. Despite its beneficial sun-protective effects, abnormal accumulation of melanin results in esthetic problems. A range of topical hypopigmenting agents have been evaluated for their use in the treatment of pigmentary disorders with varying degrees of success. Hydroquinone (HQ), which competes with tyrosine, is the main ingredient in topical pharmacological agents. However, frequent occurrence of adverse reactions is an important factor that limits its use. Thus, efforts to discover effective topical hypopigmenting agents with less adverse effects continue. Here, we describe the potential of resveratrol to function as an effective hypopigmenting agent based on its mechanism of action. Resveratrol is not only a direct tyrosinase inhibitor but an indirect inhibitor as well. Additionally, it can affect keratinocytes, which regulate the function of melanocytes. Resveratrol regulates the inflammatory process of keratinocytes and protects them from oxidative damage. In this way, it prevents keratinocyte-induced melanocyte stimulation. Furthermore, it has a rescuing effect on the stemness of interfollicular epidermal cells that can repair signs of photoaging in the melasma, a typical pigmentary skin disorder. Overall, resveratrol is a promising potent hypopigmenting agent.

Effect of layered application on the skin permeation of a cosmetic active component, rhododendrol

Cosmetics containing rhododendrol (RD) were voluntarily recalled after incidents of leukoderma related to their use. Users reported using up to five different RD-containing products by layered application. In this study, we investigated the effects of layered application, formulations, and their components on the skin permeation of cosmetics containing RD. Experiments were designed to simulate actual in-use conditions, such as varying application volumes, physical mixing of formulations, sequence of cosmetics application and time interval between applications, to establish their effect on the skin permeation of RD. Milk and lotion RD-containing cosmetics (2%), 1% aqueous RD, and preparations of formulation components were applied as the first or second layers as finite doses of 10 or 20 µL/cm². Permeation experiments were performed through excised porcine ear skin using Franz diffusion cells with an effective diffusion area of 1.77 cm². Cosmetics applied by layered application exhibited lower skin permeation of RD compared with a single application despite having the same application dose. High initial volume (20 µL at 0 or 5 sec) did not exhibit any significant reduction in the permeation of RD. Formulations and their components caused varying reductions in RD permeation, probably due to changes in thermodynamic activity of the active component. Layered application, formulation components, application volume, time interval and sequence of application had significant influences on the skin permeation of the active component. Moreover, this study established a method of investigating the influence of formulations and their components on the skin permeation of actives after layered application.

Open-label pilot study to evaluate the effectiveness of topical bimatoprost on rhododendrol-induced refractory leukoderma

Rhododendrol (RD), 4‐(4‐hydroxyphenyl)‐2‐butanol, inhibits melanin synthesis and had been used in skin‐whitening cosmetic products until 2013. However, some individuals developed leukoderma on the skin where RD had been applied and have suffered from refractory depigmentation even after discontinuing RD application. Bimatoprost is a prostaglandin F2α analog and is often used for eyelash growth for cosmetic reasons as well as in the treatment of glaucoma. It was reported that bimatoprost induced skin pigmentation in addition to iris pigmentation as adverse effects. Therefore, we conducted an open‐label single‐center pilot study to evaluate the effectiveness of bimatoprost on refractory RD‐induced leukoderma. Eleven Japanese female patients with skin type III who developed leukoderma on the exact or slightly extended area of skin where RD had been applied and gained a halt of enlargement of leukoderma or repigmentation on a part of the affected skin after discontinuation of RD were enrolled. Bimatoprost 0.03% solution was applied on the leukoderma once daily for 3 months, and then the frequency of application was increased to twice daily for the subsequent 3 months. Ten patients completed the 6‐month course of bimatoprost application. In four patients, bimatoprost application brought slight improvement in RD‐induced refractory leukoderma by dermatologists’ evaluation. Because the number of enrolled patients was limited, further larger studies are necessary to better assess the effectiveness of bimatoprost in inducing repigmentation in patients with RD‐induced refractory leukoderma.

Conjugation with Dihydrolipoic Acid Imparts Caffeic Acid Ester Potent Inhibitory Effect on Dopa Oxidase Activity of Human Tyrosinase

Caffeic acid derivatives represent promising lead compounds in the search for tyrosinase inhibitors to be used in the treatment of skin local hyperpigmentation associated to an overproduction or accumulation of melanin. We recently reported the marked inhibitory activity of a conjugate of caffeic acid with dihydrolipoic acid, 2-S-lipoylcaffeic acid (LCA), on the tyrosine hydroxylase (TH) and dopa oxidase (DO) activities of mushroom tyrosinase. In the present study, we evaluated a more lipophilic derivative, 2-S-lipoyl caffeic acid methyl ester (LCAME), as an inhibitor of tyrosinase from human melanoma cells. Preliminary analysis of the effects of LCAME on mushroom tyrosinase indicated more potent inhibitory effects on either enzyme activities (IC50 = 0.05 ± 0.01 μM for DO and 0.83 ± 0.09 μM for TH) compared with LCA and the reference compound kojic acid. The inhibition of DO of human tyrosinase was effective (Ki = 34.7 ± 1.1 μM) as well, while the action on TH was weaker. Lineweaver⁻Burk analyses indicated a competitive inhibitor mechanism. LCAME was not substrate of tyrosinase and proved nontoxic at concentrations up to 50 μM. No alteration of basal tyrosinase expression was observed after 24 h treatment of human melanoma cells with the inhibitor, but preliminary evidence suggested LCAME might impair the induction of tyrosinase expression in cells stimulated with α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone. All these data point to this compound as a valuable candidate for further trials toward its use as a skin depigmenting agent. They also highlight the differential effects of tyrosinase inhibitors on the human and mushroom enzymes.

The potent pro-oxidant activity of rhododendrol-eumelanin is enhanced by ultraviolet A radiation

RS-4-(4-hydroxyphenyl)-2-butanol (rhododendrol, RD), a skin-whitening agent, is known to induce leukoderma in some consumers. To explore the mechanism underlying this effect, we previously showed that the oxidation of RD with mushroom or human tyrosinase produces cytotoxic quinone oxidation products and RD-eumelanin exerts a potent pro-oxidant activity. Cellular antioxidants were oxidized by RD-eumelanin with a concomitant production of H₂ O₂ . In this study, we examined whether this pro-oxidant activity of RD-eumelanin is enhanced by ultraviolet A (UVA) radiation because most RD-induced leukoderma lesions are found in sun-exposed areas. Exposure to a physiological level of UVA (3.5 mW/cm² ) induced a two to fourfold increase in the rates of oxidation of GSH, cysteine, ascorbic acid, and NADH. This oxidation was oxygen-dependent and was accompanied by the production of H₂ O₂ . These results suggest that RD-eumelanin is cytotoxic to melanocytes through its potent pro-oxidant activity that is enhanced by UVA radiation.

Biochemical Mechanism of Rhododendrol-Induced Leukoderma

RS-4-(4-hydroxyphenyl)-2-butanol (rhododendrol (RD))-a skin-whitening ingredient-was reported to induce leukoderma in some consumers. We have examined the biochemical basis of the RD-induced leukoderma by elucidating the metabolic fate of RD in the course of tyrosinase-catalyzed oxidation. We found that the oxidation of racemic RD by mushroom tyrosinase rapidly produces RD-quinone, which gives rise to secondary quinone products. Subsequently, we confirmed that human tyrosinase is able to oxidize both enantiomers of RD. We then showed that B16 cells exposed to RD produce high levels of RD-pheomelanin and protein-SH adducts of RD-quinone. Our recent studies showed that RD-eumelanin-an oxidation product of RD-exhibits a potent pro-oxidant activity that is enhanced by ultraviolet-A radiation. In this review, we summarize our biochemical findings on the tyrosinase-dependent metabolism of RD and related studies by other research groups. The results suggest two major mechanisms of cytotoxicity to melanocytes. One is the cytotoxicity of RD-quinone through binding with sulfhydryl proteins that leads to the inactivation of sulfhydryl enzymes and protein denaturation that leads to endoplasmic reticulum stress. The other mechanism is the pro-oxidant activity of RD-derived melanins that leads to oxidative stress resulting from the depletion of antioxidants and the generation of reactive oxygen radicals.

The potent pro-oxidant activity of rhododendrol-eumelanin induces cysteine depletion in B16 melanoma cells

RS-4-(4-Hydroxyphenyl)-2-butanol (rhododendrol, RD), a skin-whitening agent, is known to induce leukoderma in some people. To explore the mechanism underlying this effect, we previously showed that the oxidation of RD with mushroom or human tyrosinase produces cytotoxic quinone oxidation products. We then examined the metabolism of RD in B16F1 melanoma cells in vitro and detected RD-pheomelanin and RD-quinone bound to non-protein and protein thiols. In this study, we examined the changes in glutathione (GSH) and cysteine in B16 cells exposed to RD for up to 24 h. We find that the levels of cysteine, but not those of GSH, decrease during 0.5- to 3-h exposure, due to oxidation to cystine. This pro-oxidant activity was then examined using synthetic melanins. Indeed, we find that RD-eumelanin exerts a pro-oxidant activity as potent as Dopa-pheomelanin. GSH, cysteine, ascorbic acid, and NADH were oxidized by RD-eumelanin with a concomitant production of H₂ O₂ . We propose that RD-eumelanin induces cytotoxicity through its potent pro-oxidant activity.

2-S-Lipoylcaffeic Acid, a Natural Product-Based Entry to Tyrosinase Inhibition via Catechol Manipulation

Conjugation of naturally occurring catecholic compounds with thiols is a versatile and facile entry to a broad range of bioinspired multifunctional compounds for diverse applications in biomedicine and materials science. We report herein the inhibition properties of the caffeic acid- dihydrolipoic acid S-conjugate, 2-S-lipoylcaffeic acid (LC), on mushroom tyrosinase. Half maximum inhibitory concentration (IC₅₀) values of 3.22 ± 0.02 and 2.0 ± 0.1 µM were determined for the catecholase and cresolase activity of the enzyme, respectively, indicating a greater efficiency of LC compared to the parent caffeic acid and the standard inhibitor kojic acid. Analysis of the Lineweaver–Burk plot suggested a mixed-type inhibition mechanism. LC proved to be non-toxic on human keratinocytes (HaCaT) at concentrations up to 30 µM. These results would point to LC as a novel prototype of melanogenesis regulators for the treatment of pigmentary disorders.

Biochemical effects of the flavanol-rich lychee fruit extract on the melanin biosynthesis and reactive oxygen species

An ingredient of fruit polyphenol, resveratrol, is known to have an inhibitory effect on melanogenesis. In order to examine the functional differences between resveratrol and other fruit polyphenols, we compared biochemical effects of a resveratrol-free polyphenol, flavanol-rich lychee fruit extract (FRLFE), with other phenolic compounds including resveratrol. FRLFE as well as hydroquinone and resveratrol suppressed growth of B16F1 melanoma cells more significantly than rhododendrol or arbutin. Resveratrol suppressed mushroom tyrosinase at the lowest concentration (23.0 μmol/L) among the compounds tested. FRLFE and hydroquinone suppressed tyrosinase at almost the same concentration (half maximal inhibitory concentration [IC₅₀ ], 83.5 and 94.6 μmol/L, respectively), which was higher than rhododendrol, ascorbic acid and arbutin (IC₅₀ , 245, 345 and 421 μmol/L, respectively). Western blot analysis revealed that although resveratrol decreased expressions of tyrosinase and tyrosinase-related protein 1, FRLFE did not affect their expressions. Both FRLFE and resveratrol suppressed antimycin A-mediated reactive oxygen species (ROS) production in melanocytic cells. Resveratrol-mediated ROS suppression was inhibited by nicotinamide, a SIRT1 inhibitor. However, FRLFE-mediated suppression was not affected by nicotinamide. Moreover, FRLFE directly decreased superoxide in vitro, as detected by superoxide dismutase-like scavenging activity assay. These results suggest that FRLFE can protect melanocytes from cytotoxicity caused by an excess amount of melanin and ROS in a different manner from resveratrol.

Tyrosinase-Catalyzed Oxidation of the Leukoderma-Inducing Agent Raspberry Ketone Produces (E)-4-(3-Oxo-1-butenyl)-1,2-benzoquinone: Implications for Melanocyte Toxicity

The exposure of human skin to 4-(4-hydroxyphenyl)-2-butanone (raspberry ketone, RK) is known to cause chemical/occupational leukoderma. RK has a structure closely related to 4-(4-hydroxyphenyl)-2-butanol (rhododendrol), a skin whitening agent that was found to cause leukoderma in the skin of consumers in 2013. Rhododendrol is a good substrate for tyrosinase and causes a tyrosinase-dependent cytotoxicity to melanocytes, cells that are responsible for skin pigmentation. Therefore, it is expected that RK exerts its cytotoxicity to melanocytes through the tyrosinase-catalyzed oxidation to cytotoxic o-quinones. The results of this study demonstrate that the oxidation of RK by mushroom tyrosinase rapidly produces 4-(3-oxobutyl)-1,2-benzoquinone (RK-quinone), which is converted within 10-20 min to (E)-4-(3-oxo-1-butenyl)-1,2-benzoquinone (DBL-quinone). These quinones were identified as their corresponding catechols after reduction by ascorbic acid. RK-quinone and DBL-quinone quantitatively bind to the small thiol N-acetyl-l-cysteine to form thiol adducts and can also bind to the thiol protein bovine serum albumin through its cysteinyl residue. DBL-quinone is more reactive than RK-quinone, as judged by their half-lives (6.2 min vs 10.5 min, respectively), and decays rapidly to form an oligomeric pigment (RK-oligomer). The RK-oligomer can oxidize GSH to GSSG with a concomitant production of hydrogen peroxide, indicating its pro-oxidant activity, similar to that of the RD-oligomer. These results suggest that RK is cytotoxic to melanocytes through the binding of RK-derived quinones to thiol proteins and the pro-oxidant activity of the RK-oligomer.

Clinical and epidemiological analysis in 149 cases of rhododendrol-induced leukoderma

Rhododendrol-induced leukoderma is an acquired depigmentation that develops mainly at the contact site after repeated use of skin-whitening cosmetics containing rhododendrol. In most cases, cessation of further depigmentation or occurrence of repigmentation is observed after discontinuing the use of cosmetics. However, some patients develop vitiligo vulgaris through the spread of depigmentation into the non-exposed areas. Our study aims to investigate the patient-specific factors that may affect the extent of depigmentation or repigmentation, as well as development of vitiligo vulgaris. The degree of depigmentation of the face, neck and hands where exposed to rhododendrol was scored using photographs over time. The relationships between depigmentation score at first visit/improvement rate of depigmentation score and patient demographics were evaluated and three important clinical observations were made. First, repigmentation of the face was superior compared with that of the hands and neck, suggesting a possible role for the migration and differentiation of melanocyte stem cells from hair follicles, as a mechanism of repigmentation. Second, the intensity of rhododendrol exposure did not contribute to differences in the severity of depigmentation. This suggested a possibility of underlying genetic susceptibility to melanocyte cytotoxicity or immune reaction. Third, depigmentation score at first visit and past history of atopic dermatitis were significantly high in patients who developed vitiligo vulgaris. This suggested that severe chemical damage of melanocytes by rhododendrol leads to a higher risk of developing vitiligo vulgaris through the possible involvement of an immune reaction. These clinical observations may help to further understand the pathogenesis of rhododendrol-induced leukoderma.

Generation of hydroxyl radicals and singlet oxygen during oxidation of rhododendrol and rhododendrol-catechol

The generation of hydroxyl radicals and singlet oxygen during the oxidation of 4-(4-hydroxyphenyl)-2-butanol (rhododendrol) and 4-(3,4-dihydroxyphenyl)-2-butanol (rhododendrol-catechol) with mushroom tyrosinase in a phosphate buffer (pH 7.4) was examined as the model for the reactive oxygen species generation via the two rhododendrol compounds in melanocytes. The reaction was performed in the presence of 5,5-dimethyl-1-pyrroline-N-oxide (DMPO) spin trap reagents for hydroxyl radical or 2,2,6,6-tetramethyl-4-piperidone (4-oxo-TEMP), an acceptor of singlet oxygen, and their electron spin resonances were measured. An increase in the electron spin resonances signal attributable to the adduct of DMPO reacting with the hydroxyl radical and that of 4-oxo-TEMP reacting with singlet oxygen was observed during the tyrosinase-catalyzed oxidation of rhododendrol and rhododendrol-catechol, indicating the generation of hydroxyl radical and singlet oxygen. Moreover, hydroxyl radical generation was also observed in the autoxidation of rhododendrol-catechol. We show that generation of intermediates during tyrosinase-catalyzed oxidation of rhododendrol enhances oxidative stress in melanocytes.

The Development of Sugar-Based Anti-Melanogenic Agents

The regulation of melanin production is important for managing skin darkness and hyperpigmentary disorders. Numerous anti-melanogenic agents that target tyrosinase activity/stability, melanosome maturation/transfer, or melanogenesis-related signaling pathways have been developed. As a rate-limiting enzyme in melanogenesis, tyrosinase has been the most attractive target, but tyrosinase-targeted treatments still pose serious potential risks, indicating the necessity of developing lower-risk anti-melanogenic agents. Sugars are ubiquitous natural compounds found in humans and other organisms. Here, we review the recent advances in research on the roles of sugars and sugar-related agents in melanogenesis and in the development of sugar-based anti-melanogenic agents. The proposed mechanisms of action of these agents include: (a) (natural sugars) disturbing proper melanosome maturation by inducing osmotic stress and inhibiting the PI3 kinase pathway and (b) (sugar derivatives) inhibiting tyrosinase maturation by blocking N-glycosylation. Finally, we propose an alternative strategy for developing anti-melanogenic sugars that theoretically reduce melanosomal pH by inhibiting a sucrose transporter and reduce tyrosinase activity by inhibiting copper incorporation into an active site. These studies provide evidence of the utility of sugar-based anti-melanogenic agents in managing skin darkness and curing pigmentary disorders and suggest a future direction for the development of physiologically favorable anti-melanogenic agents.

NAD(P)H dehydrogenase, quinone 1 (NQO1), protects melanin-producing cells from cytotoxicity of rhododendrol

Rhododendrol (RD) is a potent tyrosinase inhibitor that is metabolized to RD-quinone by tyrosinase, which may underlie the cytotoxicity of RD and leukoderma of the skin that may result. We have examined how forced expression of the NAD(P)H quinone dehydrogenase, quinone 1 (NQO1), a major quinone-reducing enzyme in cytosol, affects the survival of RD-treated cells. We found that treatment of the mouse melanoma cell line B16BL6 or normal human melanocytes with carnosic acid, a transcriptional inducer of the NQO1 gene, notably suppressed the cell killing effect of RD. This effect was mostly abolished by ES936, a highly specific NQO1 inhibitor. Moreover, conditional overexpression of the human NQO1 transgene in B16BL6 led to an expression-dependent increase of cell survival after RD treatment. Our results suggest that NQO1 attenuates the cytotoxicity of RD and/or its metabolites.