Determinants for success in climbing: A systematic review

Validity and Reliability of Finger-Strength Testing in 6 Common Grip Techniques for the Assessment of Bouldering Ability in Men

OBJECTIVE

To determine the criterion validity and test-retest reliability of isometric finger-strength testing in 6 differentiated grip techniques for the assessment of bouldering ability among male climbers.

METHODS

We recruited participants at climbing gyms in Sweden and through online advertisements. We included climbers over 15 years of age with a minimum bouldering performance level of 17 International Rock Climbing and Research Association (IRCRA) for men and 15 IRCRA for women. We tested unilateral, maximal isometric peak finger strength in the front 3 drag, half crimp, closed crimp, 35 sloper, 45 × 90-mm, and 90 × 90-mm pinch through maximal force deloaded of a force plate. We analyzed criterion validity, test-retest reliability, and capacity to determine bouldering performance ability using a stepwise multivariable regression model.

RESULTS

Women were excluded from the analysis due to insufficient sample size (n = 16). Thirty-two male participants were included in the primary analysis. The median (interquartile range) age in the advanced and elite group was 27 (25; 35) and 23 (22; 32) years, respectively. The half crimp for the participants' weak and strong hand displayed the highest ability to determine bouldering grade performance, explaining 48% to 58% of the variance. In the stepwise regression, maximal strength in the half crimp and the front 3 drag collectively explained 66% of the variance for performance.

CONCLUSION

Strength in the half crimp proved the most important performance indicator. The results of this study provide a reliable and valid framework for maximal isometric peak finger-strength testing in advanced and elite male boulderers.

Embodied planning in climbing: how pre-planning informs motor execution

Introduction

The aim of the study is to address embodied planning in climbing. Embodied planning was conceptualized as the interaction between perceptual-cognitive pre-planning and motor execution.

Methods

In an experimental study, 18 climbers were asked to pre-plan a climbing route and to perform the route afterward. During pre-planning, the visual search pattern of climbers was captured using a portable eye tracker. After previewing, they were invited to climb the wall.

Results

Results revealed that holds looked at during pre-planning were used twice as much during route execution than those not looked at. The duration of fixations was longer for holds used than those not used during route execution. The experience of climbers (training years) correlated with visual strategies and climbing performance, such that experienced participants climbed faster and fixated at the holds not used for a shorter time.

Discussion

The visual behaviors of climbers were influenced by their past sensorimotor experiences during route previewing, impacting subsequent climbing performance.

Analyzing Injury Patterns in Climbing: A Comprehensive Study of Risk Factors

Climbing, a sport with increasing popularity, poses diverse risks and injury patterns across its various disciplines. This study evaluates the incidence and nature of climbing-related injuries, focusing on how different disciplines and climbers' personal characteristics affect these injuries. Data on injury incidence, severity, and consequences, as well as climbers' personal attributes, were collected through a questionnaire and analyzed using generalized linear models and generalized linear mixed models, Cochran-Armitage tests, and multivariate analysis. Our findings indicate a direct correlation between time spent on bouldering and lead climbing and increased injury frequency, while injury incidence decreases with time in traditional climbing. Interestingly, personal characteristics showed no significant impact on injury incidence or severity. However, distinct patterns emerged in individual disciplines regarding the recent injuries in which age and weight of climbers play a role. While the phase of occurrence and duration of consequences show no significant variation across disciplines, the intensity of the required treatment and causes of injury differ. This research provides insights into climbing injuries' complex nature, highlighting the need for tailored preventive strategies across climbing disciplines. It underscores the necessity for further investigation into the factors contributing to climbing injuries, advocating for more targeted injury prevention and safety measures in this evolving sport.

The Connection Between Resistance Training, Climbing Performance, and Injury Prevention

BACKGROUND

Climbing is an intricate sport composed of various disciplines, holds, styles, distances between holds, and levels of difficulty. In highly skilled climbers the potential for further strength-specific adaptations to increase performance may be marginal in elite climbers. With an eye on the upcoming 2024 Paris Olympics, more climbers are trying to maximize performance and improve training strategies. The relationships between muscular strength and climbing performance, as well as the role of strength in injury prevention, remain to be fully elucidated. This narrative review seeks to discuss the current literature regarding the effect of resistance training in improving maximal strength, muscle hypertrophy, muscular power, and local muscular endurance on climbing performance, and as a strategy to prevent injuries.

MAIN BODY

Since sport climbing requires exerting forces against gravity to maintain grip and move the body along the route, it is generally accepted that a climber`s absolute and relative muscular strength are important for climbing performance. Performance characteristics of forearm flexor muscles (hang-time on ledge, force output, rate of force development, and oxidative capacity) discriminate between climbing performance level, climbing styles, and between climbers and non-climbers. Strength of the hand and wrist flexors, shoulders and upper limbs has gained much attention in the scientific literature, and it has been suggested that both general and specific strength training should be part of a climber`s training program. Furthermore, the ability to generate sub-maximal force in different work-rest ratios has proved useful, in examining finger flexor endurance capacity while trying to mimic real-world climbing demands. Importantly, fingers and shoulders are the most frequent injury locations in climbing. Due to the high mechanical stress and load on the finger flexors, fingerboard and campus board training should be limited in lower-graded climbers. Coaches should address, acknowledge, and screen for amenorrhea and disordered eating in climbers.

CONCLUSION

Structured low-volume high-resistance training, twice per week hanging from small ledges or a fingerboard, is a feasible approach for climbers. The current injury prevention training aims to increase the level of performance through building tolerance to performance-relevant load exposure and promoting this approach in the climbing field.

Nutrition knowledge, weight loss practices, and supplement use in senior competition climbers

Introduction

Sport climbing has gained increased scientific attention, including studies investigating the dietary habits and nutritional requirements of climbers; however, significant gaps in the literature remain. An assessment of nutritional knowledge, weight loss for competition, and supplement use has not been previously reported in senior competition climbing athletes.

Methods

Fifty climbers (26 male, 24 female; BMI 21.6 ± 1.9; 23.7 ± 5.2 years) participated in the study. Participants answered a 72-item questionnaire, comprised of demographic data and three main sections to assess general and sports nutrition knowledge, weight loss strategies, and supplement use.

Results

The mean nutrition knowledge score was 'average', with considerable individual variation (53.5 ± 11.1 %). There were no significant sex differences in the general (GNK) or sport (SNK) nutrition knowledge scores, or effect of age. Significantly higher knowledge was demonstrated by national vs. international athletes for the GNK scores (11.09 ± 1.58 vs. 9.58 ± 1.75; p = 0.028). Participants scored well in questions concerning protein, carbohydrates, alcohol, and supplements, and conversely, performed poorly in hydration and micronutrient related questions. Less than one-fifth of respondents had access to a dietitian. Forty-six percent of males and 38% of female climbers reported intentional weight loss for competition on at least one occasion. Of those, ~76% reported utilizing concerning practices, including methods that conform with disordered eating and/or eating disorders, dehydration, vomiting, and misuse of laxatives. Approximately 65% of athletes reported using at least one nutritional supplement in the previous 6 months, with 44% reporting multiple supplement use. There was no significant difference in supplement use between sexes or competition level.

Discussion

Due to the established importance of nutritional intake on athlete health and performance, educational support should be employed to improve knowledge in climbers and address shortcomings. Moreover, intentional weight loss for climbing competition is common, with most athletes achieving ~3-8% body weight loss over ≥2 weeks. It is crucial that professionals working with competitive climbers are vigilant in identifying athletes at risk of concerning weight management and establish referral pathways to the appropriate specialist services. High quality intervention trials to assess the efficacy of ergogenic aids in climbing remains inadequate.

Comparison of finger flexion strength and muscular recovery of male lead sport climbers across climbing classes

BACKGROUND/OBJECTIVE

The purpose of this study was to compare finger flexor strength (FS), finger flexor muscle recovery (FR), and forearm circumference (FC) across three different climbing classes in male lead sport climbers.

METHODS

A total of 37 male lead sport climbers were classified into low (LC), intermediate (IC), and advanced classes (AC) categories according to the International Rock Climbing Research Association (IRCRA) Scale. All participants measured FS three times for both open grip (OG) and crimp grip (CG). Following FS measurement, the FR was observed immediately after the all-out training. The FC was measured twice using an inelastic tape.

RESULTS

The FS differed significantly across climbing classes for both grip styles and hands, regardless of dominant hand, with the higher classes showing greater FS (all, p ≤ 0.001). FR was significantly higher in AC compared to IC and LC at 5 min (all, p ≤ 0.001), 10 min (all, p ≤ 0.005) and 15 min (all, p ≤ 0.005). The FC showed significant differences with climbing classes for both forearms.

CONCLUSION

Climbing classes are associated with differences in FS, with higher class corresponding to greater FS. Similarly, climbing classes are linked to FR and FC, with higher classes being associated with faster recovery and larger FC.

Risk factors and injury prevention strategies for overuse injuries in adult climbers: a systematic review

Introduction

Climbing is an increasingly popular activity and imposes specific physiological demands on the human body, which results in unique injury presentations. Of particular concern are overuse injuries (non-traumatic injuries). These injuries tend to present in the upper body and might be preventable with adequate knowledge of risk factors which could inform about injury prevention strategies. Research in this area has recently emerged but has yet to be synthesized comprehensively. Therefore, the aim of this study was to conduct a systematic review of the potential risk factors and injury prevention strategies for overuse injuries in adult climbers.

Methods

This systematic review was conducted in accordance with the PRISMA guidelines. Databases were searched systematically, and articles were deemed eligible based upon specific criteria. Research included was original and peer-reviewed, involving climbers, and published in English, German or Czech. Outcomes included overuse injury, and at least one or more variable indicating potential risk factors or injury prevention strategies. The methodological quality of the included studies was assessed with the Downs and Black Quality Index. Data were extracted from included studies and reported descriptively for population, climbing sport type, study design, injury definition and incidence/prevalence, risk factors, and injury prevention strategies.

Results

Out of 1,183 records, a total of 34 studies were included in the final analysis. Higher climbing intensity, bouldering, reduced grip/finger strength, use of a "crimp" grip, and previous injury were associated with an increased risk of overuse injury. Additionally, a strength training intervention prevented shoulder and elbow injuries. BMI/body weight, warm up/cool downs, stretching, taping and hydration were not associated with risk of overuse injury. The evidence for the risk factors of training volume, age/years of climbing experience, and sex was conflicting.

Discussion

This review presents several risk factors which appear to increase the risk of overuse injury in climbers. Strength and conditioning, load management, and climbing technique could be targeted in injury prevention programs, to enhance the health and wellbeing of climbing athletes. Further research is required to investigate the conflicting findings reported across included studies, and to investigate the effectiveness of injury prevention programs.

Systematic Review Registration

https://www.crd.york.ac.uk/, PROSPERO (CRD42023404031).

Neuromechanics of finger hangs with arm lock-offs: analyzing joint moments and muscle activations to improve practice guidelines for climbing

Introduction

Climbing imposes substantial demands on the upper limbs and understanding the mechanical loads experienced by the joints during climbing movements is crucial for injury prevention and optimizing training protocols. This study aimed to quantify and compare upper limb joint loads and muscle activations during isometric finger hanging exercises with different arm lock-off positions.

Methods

Seventeen recreational climbers performed six finger dead hangs with arm lock-offs at 90° and 135° of elbow flexion, as well as arms fully extended. Upper limb joint moments were calculated using personalized models in OpenSim, based on three-dimensional motion capture data and forces measured on an instrumented hang board. Muscle activations of upper limb muscles were recorded with surface electromyography electrodes.

Results

Results revealed that the shoulder exhibited higher flexion moments during arm lock-offs at 90° compared to full extension (p = 0.006). The adduction moment was higher at 135° and 90° compared to full extension (p < 0.001), as well as the rotation moments (p < 0.001). The elbows exhibited increasing flexion moments with the increase in the arm lock-off angle (p < 0.001). Muscle activations varied across conditions for biceps brachii (p < 0.001), trapezius (p < 0.001), and latissimus dorsi, except for the finger flexors (p = 0.15).

Discussion

Our findings indicate that isometric finger dead hangs with arms fully extended are effective for training forearm force capacities while minimizing stress on the elbow and shoulder joints. These findings have important implications for injury prevention and optimizing training strategies in climbing.

Validity of the Entralpi force plate in the assessment of finger flexor performance metrics in rock climbers

This study assessed the validity of the Entralpi force plate in the assessment of finger flexor performance in rock climbers. In addition to a static force evaluation, peak force, peak impulse, and total impulse were measured during 30 all-out performance trials by 15 participants, in which force during the trials was recorded simultaneously by the Entralpi and a Pasco force plate. Agreement between devices was assessed by a variety of statistical analyses, including intraclass correlation coefficient (ICC), coefficient of variation (CV), and Bland-Altman analyses. The static force evaluation showed a mean relative error of 0.41% and excellent day-to-day reliability (ICC = 1; CV = 0.03%). Peak force, peak impulse, and total impulse from the performance trials demonstrated strong agreement (ICC ≥ 0.991, CV ≤ 1.9%, Bland-Altman mean bias ≤ 0.5%). These results illustrate that the Entralpi force plate provides accurate and reliable data for rock climbing related tasks at an affordable cost.

Change in grip strength, hang time, and knot tying speed after 24 hours of endurance rock climbing

Background

Non-professional climbers are increasingly attempting long routes in a single day. Many suffer injury or rely on search and rescue teams when they become too fatigued to finish. Predicting fatigue is difficult, and existing studies have only studied climbers over durations less than an hour, while many outdoor multipitch climbs require more than an hour of climbing.

Objectives

To determine how strength, endurance, and dexterity reflect fatigue after 24 h of continuous climbing.

Methods

Volunteer competitors completed measurements of grip strength, static hang time to failure, and time to tie a figure-eight follow-through knot. Measurements were taken during the registration period before the competition and again within an hour after the competition ended. Measurements were compared using the paired t-test. Subgroup analysis was applied to competitors by division. Linear regression was applied to determine the relationship between vertical feet climbed and the number of routes climbed during the competition on each metric.

Results

Thirty-six total climbers (average age 29.4 years old) completed pre- and post-competition measurements. After 24 h of climbing (n = 36), mean grip strength decreased by 14.3-15 lbs or 14.7%-15.1% (p < 0.001) and static hang time decreased by 54.2 s or 71.2% (p < 0.001). There was no significant change in time to tie a figure-eight-follow-through knot. Grip strength and hang time decreases were significant in climbers with outdoor redpoints of 5.10a and above. Hang time decreased by 5.4 s per 1,000 vertical feet climbed (p = 0.044).

Conclusion

Climbers can expect to experience a 14.7%-15.1% decrease in grip strength and 71.2% decrease in static hang time after 24 h of continuous climbing. These changes may make it difficult to climb consistently over a long objective, and climbers can use these measures at home to train for longer climbing routes. Future studies on shorter climbing intervals can help determine rates of decline in performance measures.

Top of the podium, at what cost? injuries in female international elite climbers

Objectives

Competitive sport climbing has made its way to the Olympic stage. This prestige has brought about route setting and training alterations which presumably affect injury epidemiology. Most of the climbing injury literature contains male climbers and lacks high performing athletes. Studies with both female and male climbers, rarely included separate analyses for performance level or sex. Therefore, injury concerns for elite female competitive climbers are impossible to discern. A former study examined the prevalence of amenorrhea in elite international female climbers (n = 114) and reported that 53.5% had at least one injury in the past 12 months, but injury details were excluded. This study's aim was to report these injury details and their associations with BMI, menstrual status and eating disorders of the cohort.

Methods

Online survey was emailed to competitive female climbers recruited through the IFSC database between June and August 2021. Data was analyzed using Mann-Whitney U, χ² and logistic regression.

Results

229 registered IFSC climbers opened the questionnaire and 114 (49.7%) provided valid responses. Respondents (mean ± SD; age = 22.9 ± 5 year) represented 30 different countries and more than half (53.5%, n = 61) reported an injury in the prior 12 months with the majority in shoulders (37.7%, n = 23) and fingers (34.4%, n = 21). Injury prevalence in climbers with amenorrhea was 55.6% (n = 10). BMI was not a significant predictor of injury risk (OR = 1.082, 95% CI: 0.89, 1.3; p = 0.440) while accounting for current ED over the past 12 months. However, the odds ratio for having an injury was doubled for those with an ED (OR = 2.129, 95% CI: 0.905, 5.010; p = 0.08).

Conclusion

With over half reporting recent injuries (<12 months) mostly to shoulders and fingers, development of new strategies for injury prevention in competitive female climbers are warranted. In addition, climbers with disordered eating behaviors and/or menstrual disturbances might be more prone to injury. More research in this population is required. Suitable screening to prevent these health issues and proper monitoring of these athletes are paramount to long-term athlete success.

Exploring forearm muscle coordination and training applications of various grip positions during maximal isometric finger dead-hangs in rock climbers

Background

Maximal isometric finger dead-hangs are used in rock climbing to strengthen finger flexors. Although various grip positions are often used when performing finger dead-hangs, little is known regarding how these grip positions can affect forearm muscle activity. Understanding how forearm muscles are recruited during dead-hangs could help foreseeing the potential for training of different grip positions. The aim of the present study was to explore the training applications of the various grip positions by comparing the activity of forearm muscles during maximal dead-hangs in rock climbers.

Materials & Methods

Twenty-five climbers performed maximal dead-hangs in three climbing-specific grip positions: CRIMP, SLOPE, and SLOPER. We recorded the maximal loads used and the sEMG of the flexor digitorum profundus (FDP), the flexor digitorum superficialis (FDS), the flexor carpi radialis (FCR), and the extensor digitorum communis (EDC). Individual and global (sum of all muscles) root mean square (RMS) and neuromuscular efficiency (NME) values were computed. Repeated measures analysis were performed to assess grip differences (p < 0.05).

Results

SLOPER showed the largest maximal load values among the three grip positions (p < 0.001, d ≥ 2.772). Greater global (p ≤ 0.044, d ≥ 0.268), FDS (p ≤ 0.005, d ≥ 0.277), and FCR (p < 0.001, d ≥ 1.049) activity was observed for the SLOPER compared to CRIMP and SLOPE, while EDC (p ≤ 0.005, d ≥ 0.505) showed lower activity in the SLOPER compared to the other two grip positions. SLOPER presented the highest global (p < 0.001, d ≥ 0.629), FDP (p < 0.001, d ≥ 0.777), FDS (only CRIMP vs SLOPER: p < 0.001, d = 0.140), and EDC NME (p < 0.001, d ≥ 1.194). The CRIMP showed greater FDS activity (p = 0.001, d = 0.386) and lower NME (p = 0.003, d = 0.125) compared to SLOPE.

Conclusions

These results revealed that, under maximum intensity conditions, SLOPER could stimulate the FDS and FCR better than the other grip positions at the expense of using greater loads. Similarly, maximum CRIMP dead-hang could better stimulate the FDS than the SLOPE, even when using similar loads.

Competitive performance predictors in speed climbing, bouldering, and lead climbing

The study modelled the influence of anthropometric components, climbing-specific power, strength and endurance parameters, flexibility, coordination, and motor planning skills on competitive climbing performance in speed, bouldering, and lead climbing. Sixty-one competitive climbers (26 women [18.1 ± 1.9y], 35 men [21.4 ± 6.1y]) participated. PCA and MRA were used for statistical analyses. Significant predictors for speed climbing performance (R2 = 44% and 35%) were lower (ß = .43 and .47) and upper body power and strength (ß = .40 and .37) for women and men, respectively. For women's bouldering performance (R2 = 39%), they were hip flexibility (ß = .42) and upper body power and strength (ß = .37), for the men's (R2 = 53%) lower (ß = .41) and upper body power (ß = .41) and body fat (ß = .37). For women's lead climbing (R2 = 58%) upper body power and strength (ß = .59) and finger endurance (ß = .48) predict performance, for the men's (R2 = 58%) lower (ß = .36) and upper body power (ß = .28), body fat (ß = .27) and motor planning skills (ß = .27). The multivariate models provide a framework for scientifically grounded climbing training by emphasizing the role of specific performance components.

Physical performance testing in climbing-A systematic review

Due to the increasing popularity of climbing, the corresponding diagnostics are gaining in importance for both science and practice. This review aims to give an overview of the quality of different diagnostic testing- and measurement methods for performance, strength, endurance, and flexibility in climbing. A systematic literature search for studies including quantitative methods and tests for measuring different forms of strength, endurance, flexibility, or performance in climbing and bouldering was conducted on PubMed and SPORT Discus. Studies and abstracts were included if they a) worked with a representative sample of human boulderers and/or climbers, b) included detailed information on at least one test, and c) were randomized-controlled-, cohort-, cross-over-, intervention-, or case studies. 156 studies were included into the review. Data regarding subject characteristics, as well as the implementation and quality of all relevant tests were extracted from the studies. Tests with similar exercises were grouped and the information on a) measured value, b) unit, c) subject characteristics (sex and ability level), and d) quality criteria (objectivity, reliability, validity) were bundled and displayed in standardized tables. In total, 63 different tests were identified, of which some comprised different ways of implementation. This clearly shows that there are no uniform or standard procedures in climbing diagnostics, for tests on strength, endurance or flexibility. Furthermore, only few studies report data on test quality and detailed information on sample characteristics. This not only makes it difficult to compare test results, but at the same time makes it impossible to give precise test recommendations. Nevertheless, this overview of the current state of research contributes to the creation of more uniform test batteries in the future.

Body Composition, Anthropometric Parameters, and Strength-Endurance Characteristics of Sport Climbers: A Systematic Review

ABSTRACT

Ginszt, M, Saito, M, Zięba, E, Majcher, P, and Kikuchi, N. Body composition, anthropometric parameters, and strength-endurance characteristics of sport climbers: a systematic review. J Strength Cond Res XX(X): 000-000, 2023-Sport climbing was selected to be part of the Summer Olympic Games in Tokyo 2021 with 3 subdisciplines: lead climbing, speed climbing, and bouldering. The nature of physical effort while speed climbing, lead climbing, and bouldering performance is different. This literature review aimed to describe differences between body composition, anthropometric parameters, and upper-limb strength-endurance variables between sport climbers with different ability levels and nonclimbers. The following databases were searched: PubMed and Scopus. The following keywords were used: "sport climbing," "rock climbing," "lead climbing," and "bouldering." Articles were considered from January 2000 to October 2021 if they concerned at least one of the following parameters: body composition (mass, body mass index, body fat, lean muscle mass, bone mineral density), anthropometric parameters (height, ape index), muscle strength (MVC finger strength in half-crimp grip, MVC finger strength to body mass, handgrip strength), and muscle endurance (force time integral, pull-ups). A review shows that body mass and body fat content were lower in the sport climbers compared with controls and in elite sport climbers compared with those less advanced. Sport climbers presented higher values of MVC finger strength in half-crimp grip, MVC finger strength to body mass, handgrip strength, and force time integral parameter than control subjects. Significantly higher MVC values in half-crimp grip were observed in elite sport climbers than in advanced athletes. None of the analyzed work showed differences between sport climber groups in the ape index. The abovementioned parameters may be a key factor in elite sport climbing performance.

The Evaluation of Energy Availability and Dietary Nutrient Intake of Sport Climbers at Different Climbing Levels

Proper nutrition is the basis for athletes' performances when competing or training. The increasing training volume accompanying the increase in advancement should go hand in hand with the appropriate supply of energy as well as macro and micronutrients. The diet of climbing representatives due to the desire to achieve a low body weight may be deficient in energy and micronutrients. Our study aimed to evaluate the differences in energy availability and nutrient intake of female and male sport climbers at different climbing levels. Anthropometric parameters and the resting metabolic rate were measured, the questionnaire about climbing grade and training hours was filled, and a 3-day food diary was fulfilled by 106 sport climbers. Based on the collected data, the energy availability as well as the macro- and micronutrient intake was calculated. Low energy availability (EA) was observed among both genders of sport climbing representatives. A significant difference between EA in various levels of advancement was found in the male group (p < 0.001). Differences in carbohydrate intake (g/kg/BW) between sexes were observed (p = 0.01). Differences in nutrients intake between climbing grade were found in both the female and male groups. In the group of female elite athletes, the adequate supply of most of the micronutrients can imply a high-quality diet despite the low calorie content. It is necessary to educate sport climbing representatives about the importance of proper nutrition as well as the consequences of insufficient energy intake.

Strength Training in Climbing: A Systematic Review

ABSTRACT

Langer, K, Simon, C, and Wiemeyer, J. Strength training in climbing: A systematic review. J Strength Cond Res 37(3): 751-767, 2023-The aim of this review was to provide an overview of the state of research on strength training in climbing and to answer the question how climbing performance, maximum grip strength, upper-limb strength endurance, maximum upper-limb strength, and upper-limb power as dependent variables are affected by different types of training. Moreover, we addressed the question which training methods and training parameters are most effective in increasing climbing and bouldering performance. Searches of MEDLINE (PubMed), SPORTDiscus, ProQuest, and Google Scholar were conducted for studies that met the following criteria: (a) examining effects of training on at least one of the dependent variables, (b) controlled longitudinal design with pretest and posttest, and (c) detailed information on training parameters and subjects. Twelve studies were included into the review. The quality of the studies was rated according to the PEDro scale, and the training interventions were classified according to training method (maximum strength [MS], hypertrophy [HYP], and endurance [END]), specificity (specific, semispecific, and unspecific), and static or dynamic exercises. For 9 of the 12 studies, effect sizes were calculated and the treatments compared. The results showed (a) positive effects of strength training on all variables, (b) a trend toward a mixture of MS and HYP or END training, (c) a trend toward semispecific exercise, and (d) similar effects for dynamic and static exercise with a trend toward a mixture of both. Coaches and athletes are recommended to combine static and dynamic semispecific exercises in a HYP and MS or END training.

The effect of fatigue on climbing fluidity and hand movements

In rock climbing, climbers use their arms to regulate their posture on the wall, which can lead to localised muscle fatigue. Evidence shows fatigue is the primary cause of falls, but little is known about how fatigue specifically affects climbing rhythm and hand movements. The present study examined climbing fluidity and hand movements on an indoor climbing wall before and after a specific fatiguing protocol. Seventeen climbers completed three repetitions of a challenging climbing route (21 on Ewbank scale) with different levels of localised arm fatigue. Climbers' movements were tracked using 3D motion capture, and their hand actions assessed using notational analysis. Seventy markers were used to create 15 rigid body segments and the participants' centre of mass. The global entropy index was calculated on the path of the participants' centre of mass. Climbers fell more often when fatigued, but there were no significant differences in hip jerk or global entropy index when fatigued. No significant differences were found between the number of exploratory or performatory hand movements with different amounts of fatigue. The results suggest that localised arm fatigue affects a climber's ability to prevent themselves from falling, but it does not specifically affect their fluidity.

Accuracy of Resting Metabolic Rate Prediction Equations in Sport Climbers

Resting metabolic rate (RMR) represents the energy required to maintain vital body functions. In dietary practice, RMR is determined by predictive equations on the basis of using body weight or fat-free mass. Our study aimed to assess whether predictive equations used to estimate RMR are reliable tools for estimating the energy requirements of sport climbers. The study included 114 sport climbers whose RMR was measured with a Fitmate WM. Anthropometric measurements were performed with X-CONTACT 356. The resting metabolic rate was measured by indirect calorimetry and was compared with the RMR estimated by 14 predictive equations on the basis of using body weight/fat-free mass. All equations underestimated RMR in male and female climbers, except for De Lorenzo's equation in the group of women. The De Lorenzo equation demonstrated the highest correlation with RMR in both groups. The results of the Bland-Altman tests revealed an increasing measurement error with increasing metabolism for most of the predictive equations in male and female climbers. All equations had low measurement reliability according to the intraclass correlation coefficient. Compared with the indirect calorimetry measurement results, none of the studied predictive equations demonstrated high reliability. There is a need to develop a highly reliable predictive equation to estimate RMR in sport climbers.

Comparison of finger flexor resistance training, with and without blood flow restriction, on perceptional and physiological responses in advanced climbers

This study compared perceptional and physiological responses of finger flexor exercise performed with free flow and blood flow restriction (BFR). Thirteen male advanced climbers completed three sessions of finger flexor resistance exercise at (1) 40% of MVC (Low) and (2) 75% of MVC (High) and (3) BFR at 40% of MVC (Low + BFR) in a randomized and counterbalanced order. Rate of perceived exertion for effort (RPE) and discomfort (RPD), session pleasure/displeasure (sPDF), exercise enjoyment (EES), lactate concentration and oxygen saturation were recorded after the last set. Both low-intensity sessions induced higher RPD than High (p = 0.018-0.022, ES = 1.01-1.09) and High was perceived as more enjoyable than Low-BFR (p = 0.031, ES = 1.08). No differences were found for RPE or sPDF (p = 0.132-0.804). Lactate was elevated more after High than the Low-sessions (p < 0.001, ES = 1.88-2.08). Capillary oxygen saturation was lower after Low + BFR compared to the other sessions (p = 0.031, ES = 1.04-1.27). Finally, the exercise volume was greater in Low compared to High (p = 0.022, ES = 1.14) and Low + BFR (p = 0.020, ES = 0.77). In conclusion, among advanced male climbers, performing Low + BFR led to a similar exercise volume but was perceived as more discomforting and less enjoyable compared to High. The Low session yielded similar responses as the Low + BFR but required a much greater exercise volume.

Sports and the Pandemic: The Impact of COVID-19 on Active Living and Life Satisfaction of Climbers

The COVID-19 pandemic has resulted in significant changes in every aspect of our lives. Because of the measures imposed, people were only allowed to leave their homes for certain purposes, and all types of cultural and sports events were canceled. Climbers were greatly affected by these limited options for regular physical activity outside of the home environment. Little is known about the crisis' effects on the climbing community in German-speaking regions. Thus, we surveyed 1028 German-speaking climbers (mean age 34.6 years, SD 10.4; 50.4% females) from December 2020 to February 2021. A cross-sectional online survey collected data on climbing frequency and preferences as well as levels of life satisfaction, using the standardized Short Life Satisfaction Questionnaire for Lockdowns (SLSQL) before and during the crisis. Results showed that due to the pandemic, study subjects climbed less frequently, preferred outdoor locations to climb, and showed decreased life satisfaction scores (21%, (d = 0.87, p < 0.001). In conclusion, these findings highlighted that the COVID-19 pandemic had a negative effect on climbing sports activities and life satisfaction in this study sample. To preserve physical and mental health, indoor and outdoor sport activities should be continued as much as possible with reasonable hygiene concepts in place.

Effects of climbing- and resistance-training on climbing-specific performance: a systematic review and meta-analysis

The objective of this systematic review and meta-analysis was to examine the effects of climbing and climbing-and-resistance-training on climbing performance, and strength and endurance tests. We systematically searched three databases (SPORTDiscus, SCOPUS, and PubMed) for records published until January 2021. The search was limited to randomized-controlled trials using active climbers and measuring climbing performance or performance in climbing-specific tests. Data from the meta-analysis are presented as standardized difference in mean (SDM) with 95% confidence intervals (95% CI). Eleven studies are included in the systematic review and five studies compared training to a control group and could be meta-analyzed. The overall meta-analysis displayed an improvement in climbing-related test performance following climbing-specific resistance training compared to only climbing (SDM = 0.57, 95%CI = 0.24-0.91). Further analyses revealed that finger strength (SDM = 0.41, 95%CI 0.03-0.80), rate of force development (SDM = 0.91, 95%CI = 0.21-1.61), and forearm endurance (SDM = 1.23, 95%CI = 0.69-1.77) were improved by resistance-training of the finger flexors compared to climbing training. The systematic review showed that climbing performance may be improved by specific resistance-training or interval-style bouldering. However, resistance-training of the finger flexors showed no improvements in strength or endurance in climbing-specific tests. The available evidence suggests that resistance-training may be more effective than just climbing-training for improving performance outcomes. Importantly, interventional studies including climbers is limited and more research is needed to confirm these findings.

Sport-specific performances in elite youth sport climbers; gender, age, and maturity specifics

Study aim: The increase in the number of professional climbers led to the development of climbers since early age. Therefore, the average age of elite climbers has decreased over the last decade. Consequently, age and maturity specifics should be investigated with the influential factors in climbing. This research aimed to investigate the forearm muscle strength in youth sport climbers and determine the gender, age, and maturity status as factors of influence on forearm muscle performance in elite youth climbers.

Materials and methods: This research included 18 elite sport climbers (Croatian National team members), divided into two age groups: younger (aged 13–15 years) and older (aged 16–18 years). Variables included anthropometric indices (body mass, body height, body fat percentage, ape index), handgrip strength, and climbing-specific forearm strength.

Results: Climbers did not differ between age groups in the studied variables. Also, no significant correlations were found among anthropometric/body-built indices and forearm muscle performances, with age and maturity offset. However, when gender stratified, there were associations between forearm capacity in sitting position and maturity offset in girls (r = 0.73; p < 0.05) but not in boys.

Conclusion: Results could be explained by the assumption that each subsequent generation is better than the previous one. Also, the associations between performance variables and biological age in girls are probably related to girls’ earlier maturation and specificity of sports selection. Forearm muscle capacities are a crucial determinant of success in sports climbing, and a good assessment of these muscle groups could serve as a tool for sport-specific selection.

Cognitive factors that predict on-sight and red-point performance in sport climbing at youth level

Introduction

The ascent of a route can be defined as being climbed on-sight or red-point. Climbing performance is measured by the grade of the personal best route that the athlete has ever climbed.

Methodology

The study examined 17 youth climbers (10 male and 7 female). The inclusion criteria were age (less than 20 years), a minimum of three sessions per week, a minimum 7a climbing grade and participation in national or international competitions. We used the Cognitrom battery and applied tests measuring spatial orientation and reactivity.

Results

Climbing experience explained 42.7% of the variance of on-sight performance, and 49.5% of the variance of red-point performance. Image generation has a negative on both on-sight and red-point performance, lowering the prediction with 0.5% for on-sight climbing and with 1.5% for red-point climbing.

Discussion

Experience can predict climbing performance with a better prediction for red-point performance than on-sight with almost 7%. A high level of image generation ability can lead to viewing more approaches for passing the crux, but in a moment of physical and mental breakdown, can lead to failure. Red-pointing is less demanding than on-sight from physiological and psychologycal points of view. On-sight climbing requires greater levels of cognitive skills, such as route intepretation strategies, spatial orientation, motric memory, problem-solving skills, but also greater levels of psychological skills such as stress management, risk management, coping anxiety.

Integrating Wearable Sensors and Video to Determine Microlocation-Specific Physiologic and Motion Biometrics-Method Development for Competitive Climbing

Competitive indoor climbing has increased in popularity at the youth, collegiate, and Olympic levels. A critical aspect for improving performance is characterizing the physiologic response to different climbing strategies (e.g., work/rest patterns, pacing) and techniques (e.g., body position and movement) relative to location on climbing wall with spatially varying characteristics (e.g., wall inclinations, position of foot/hand holds). However, this response is not well understood due to the limited capabilities of climbing-specific measurement and assessment tools. In this study, we developed a novel method to examine time-resolved sensor-based measurements of multiple personal biometrics at different microlocations (finely spaced positions; MLs) along a climbing route. For the ML-specific biometric system (MLBS), we integrated continuous data from wearable biometric sensors and smartphone-based video during climbing, with a customized visualization and analysis system to determine three physiologic parameters (heart rate, breathing rate, ventilation rate) and one body movement parameter (hip acceleration), which are automatically time-matched to the corresponding video frame to determine ML-specific biometrics. Key features include: (1) biometric sensors that are seamlessly embedded in the fabric of an athletic compression shirt, and do not interfere with climbing performance, (2) climbing video, and (3) an interactive graphical user interface to rapidly visualize and analyze the time-matched biometrics and climbing video, determine timing sequence between the biometrics at key events, and calculate summary statistics. To demonstrate the capabilities of MLBS, we examined the relationship between changes in ML-specific climbing characteristics and changes in the physiologic parameters. Our study demonstrates the ability of MLBS to determine multiple time-resolved biometrics at different MLs, in support of developing and assessing different climbing strategies and training methods to help improve performance.

Prevalence of amenorrhea in elite female competitive climbers

Elite competitive sport climbers exhibit a high strength-to-weight ratio and are reported in the literature to be lighter and leaner than their athletic counterparts. Current research regarding nutrition among climbers is sparse but suggests that they may be at high risk for low energy availability and Relative Energy Deficiency in Sport (RED-S). The prevalence of amenorrhea, one of the primary indicators of RED-S, is unknown in this athletic population. The purpose of this study was to determine the prevalence of current (previous 12 months) amenorrhea among elite level competitive sport climbers.

Methods

An anonymous online survey was distributed via email to 1,500 female climbers registered as competitors within the International Federation of Sport Climbing to assess the prevalence of amenorrhea over the past 12 months.

Results

A total of 114 female sport climbers answered all survey questions regarding menstrual function and 18 athletes (15.8%) presented with current amenorrhea. The majority of the athletes (72%; n = 82) were categorized with eumenorrhea. An additional 14 athletes (12.3%) provided information that indicated irregular cycles, but answers to all menstrual cycle questions were not congruent to elicit a classification of amenorrhea and these athletes were categorized with a menstrual status of unsure. The average BMI for climbers with eumenorrhea was 20.8 ± 1.8 kg/m2 and 19.9 ± 2.4 kg/m2 for those with amenorrhea. A higher percentage of climbers with amenorrhea revealed they currently struggle with an eating disorder compared to those without amenorrhea (13.5 vs. 22.2%, respectively).

Conclusion

This study indicates that some female climbers competing at the World Cup level do have menstrual disturbances with relatively normal BMIs and some currently struggle with one or more eating disorders. Even though World Cup competitions use BMI critical margins to screen competitors, this research highlights the need for more medical supervision of competitive elite female sport climbers in order to protect their overall health, including menstrual function. Further research is required to clarify how many climbers suffer from endocrine abnormalities related to RED-S. With more scientific evidence in this area practitioners will be better equipped to educate the athlete and coach with evidence-based nutrition recommendations.

Balancing the Bar-Influence of Social Behaviour on Sport Climbing Performance

Background: For high performance in sport climbing, various factors must be taken into account, however, social interactions during climbing sessions have not yet been considered. Methods: For this study, four assumptions were made: (1) elite climbers share similar patterns of behaviour; (2) these behaviour patterns influence the climbing performance in a positive way; (3) the behaviour patterns had to be formed over time, and the process of changing behaviour was catalysed by formative experiences; and, (4) the social behaviour of elite climbers shows a tendency to be on their own rather than in the centre of social events, while their behavioural roots date back to their school life. Six male higher-elite-level climbers participated in semi-structured in-depth interviews. Results: In school, all participants perceived themselves as not being at the centre of social interactions. Moreover, all participants described a development from egoistic behaviour towards more supportive behaviour. Two participants were able to outline specific, formative experiences (crucibles), that drastically shaped their behaviour. Conclusion: All participants performed best in the absence of social tensions and when the atmosphere between the climbing partners was positive. Positive atmosphere was achieved by finding the optimal personal balance between supportive and egoistic behaviour.

Validity and Reliability of a Commercial Force Sensor for the Measurement of Upper Body Strength in Sport Climbing

Recreational and professional climbing is gaining popularity. Thus, valid and reliable infield strength monitoring and testing devices are required. This study aims at assessing the validity as well as within- and between-day reliability of two climbing-specific hanging positions for assessing the maximum force with a new force measurement device. Therefore, 25 experienced male (n = 16) and female (n = 9) climbers (age: 25.5 ± 4.2 years, height: 176.0 ± 9.9 cm, weight: 69.7 ± 14.5 kg, body composition: 11.8 ± 5.7% body fat, climbing level: 17.5 ± 3.9 International Rock Climbing Research Association scale) were randomly tested with climbing-specific hang board strength tests (one-handed rung pulling and one-handed bent arm lock-off at 90°). The Tindeq, a load cell-based sensor for assessing different force-related variables, was employed together with a force plate (Kistler Quattro Jump) during both conditions. Data analysis revealed excellent validity for assessment with Tindeq: The intra-class correlation coefficient (ICC) was 0.99 (both positions), while the standard error of the measurement (SEM), coefficient of variation (CV), and limits of agreement (LoA) showed low values. Within day reliability for the assessment with Tindeq was excellent: rung pulling showed an ICC of 0.90 and arm lock-off an ICC of 0.98; between-day reliability was excellent as well: rung pulling indicated an ICC of 0.95 and arm lock-off an ICC of 0.98. Other reliability indicators such as SEM, CV, and LoA were low. The Tindeq progressor can be applied for the cross-sectional and longitudinal climbing strength assessment as this device can detect training-induced changes reliably.

Differences in Upper-Body Peak Force and Rate of Force Development in Male Intermediate, Advanced, and Elite Sport Climbers

The aim of this study was to investigate the difference in climbing-specific strength and rate of force development (RFD) between intermediate, advanced, and elite male sport climbers. Seventy-eight male climbers were recruited and divided into groups based on the International Rock Climbing Research Association (IRCRA) numerical (1–32) grading system (intermediate (10–17) group (IG; n = 28)), advanced (18–23) group (AG; n = 30) and elite (24–27) group (EG; n = 20). Peak force (F_peak) and average force (F_avg) were measured while performing an isometric pull-up on a 23 mm thick campus rung. RFD was calculated from the onset of force to maximal peak force. The elite group performed better in all test parameters than the advanced (F_peak: 39.7%, ES = 1.40, p < 0.001; F_avg: 45.6%, ES = 4.60, p < 0.001; RFD: 74.9%, ES = 1.42, p = 0.001) and intermediate group (F_peak: 95.7%, ES = 2.54, p < 0.001, F_avg: 131.1%, ES = 5.84, p < 0.001, RFD: 154.4%, ES = 2.21, p = 0.001). Moreover, the advanced group demonstrated greater F_peak (40.1%, ES = 1.24, p < 0.001), F_avg (59.1%, ES = 1.57, p < 0.001) and RFD (45.5%, ES = 1.42, p = 0.046), than the intermediate group. Finally, climbing performance displayed strong correlations with F_peak (r = 0.73, p < 0.001) and F_avg (r = 0.77, p < 0.001), and a moderate correlation with RFD (r = 0.64, p < 0.001). In conclusion, maximal force and RFD in a climbing specific test are greater among climbers on higher performance levels. Independent of climbing level there is a moderate-to-strong association between maximal and rapid force production and climbing performance.

Recreational climbers are more conscientious than recreational athletes-a case control study

BACKGROUND

Physiological characteristics of climbers have been extensively studied, while the personality of climbers remains poorly understood. Personality research in sports is an established field, predicting long-term success as well as short-term behavior. The goal of our study was to examine recreational climbers' personality and gain a better understanding of what makes them reach new heights.

METHODS

We analyzed a cohort of 50 recreational climbers and 50 non-climbing athletes (control) regarding their personality characteristics. We assessed the BMI, the self-reported climbing grade, and the years of climbing experience. To evaluate the personality of recreational climbers and athletes, we used the German version of the Big Five Inventory (BFI-2), which summarizes the personality in five main categories.

RESULTS

Recreational climbers scored significantly higher in conscientiousness than non-climbing athletes (p = 0.04), there was no significant difference between the other four main personality traits. Female climbers scored significantly higher in conscientiousness than male climbers (p = 0.02), while female athletes scored higher in openness than male athletes (p < 0.01). The climbing group displayed a small but significant negative correlation between conscientiousness and BMI (r = -0.39; p < 0.01).

CONCLUSION

In conclusion, the personality of recreational climbers and recreational athletes differs in conscientiousness, with the climbers showing higher scores. Regarding gender, we found higher levels of conscientiousness in female climbers and higher openness in female athletes in comparison to their male counterparts. A negative correlation between BMI and conscientiousness of the climbers was detected.

Optimization of an Intermittent Finger Endurance Test for Climbers Regarding Gender and Deviation in Force and Pulling Time

Performance diagnostics of finger strength is very relevant in climbing. The aim of our study was to find modalities for an intermittent finger flexor muscle endurance test that optimize the correlation of test performance with lead climbing performance. Twenty-seven female and 25 male climbers pulled with 60% MVC and a work-to-rest ratio of 7:2 s on a fingerboard until fatigue. The highest correlations, R = 0.429, were found for women when 9% deviation in the required force and 1 s deviation in the required pulling time was tolerated. For men, the optimum was reached with the same time deviation and a force deviation of 6%, R = 0.691. Together with maximum finger strength the repetitions explained 31.5% of the variance of climbing ability in women and 46.3% in men. Consequences from our results are to tolerate at least 7% force deviation for women and 5% for men and to terminate the finger endurance test quickly after the force falls below the threshold.

The Effects of 10 Weeks Hangboard Training on Climbing Specific Maximal Strength, Explosive Strength, and Finger Endurance

The aim of this study was to investigate the effects of 10 weeks of hangboard training (HBT) on climbing-specific maximal strength, explosive strength, and muscular endurance. In total, 35 intermediate- to advanced-level climbers (8 women and 27 men) were randomized into a hangboard training group (HBT) or a control group (CON). The HBT program consisted of two sessions of 48 min per week using the Beastmaker 1000 series hangboard, and the following application to smartphone. Both groups continued their normal climbing training routines. Pre- and post-intervention, maximal peak force, maximal average force, and rate of force development (RFD) were measured while performing an isometric pull-up on a 23 mm deep campus rung and jug holds. In addition, finger endurance was measured by performing a sustained dead-hang test on the same rung. The HBT increased peak force and average force in 23 mm rung condition, average force in jug condition, and utilization rate øl,.- in peak force to a greater extent than CON (p = 0.001–0.031, ES = 0.29–0.66), whereas no differences were detected between groups in RFD (jug or 23 mm), peak force in jug condition, utilization rate in RFD, average force or in dead-hang duration (p = 0.056–0.303). At post-test, the HBT group demonstrated 17, 18, 28, 10, 11, and 12% improvement in peak force, average force, RFD in 23 mm rung condition, average force in jug condition, utilization rate in peak force, and dead-hang duration, respectively [p = 0.001–0.006, effect size (ES) = 0.73–1.12] whereas no change was observed in CON (p = 0.213–0.396). In conclusion, 10 weeks of HBT in addition to regular climbing was highly effective for increasing maximal finger strength compared with continuing regular climbing training for intermediate and advanced climbers.

Effects of Different Hangboard Training Intensities on Finger Grip Strength, Stamina, and Endurance

Climbing-specific training programs on hangboards are often based on dead-hang repetitions, but little is known about the real intensity applied during such effort. The aim of this study was to quantify and compare the effects of different training intensities (maximal, high submaximal, and low submaximal intensities) on the fingers' physiological capabilities using a hangboard fitted with force sensors. In total, 54 experienced climbers (13 women and 41 men) were randomly divided into four groups, with each group following different training intensity programs: maximal strength program performed at 100% of the maximal finger strength (MFS; F100), intermittent repetitions at 80% MFS (F80), intermittent repetitions at 60% MFS (F60), and no specific training (control group). Participants trained on a 12 mm-deep hold, twice a week for 4 weeks. The MFS, stamina, and endurance levels were evaluated using force data before and after training. Results showed similar values in the control group between pre- and post-tests. A significantly improved MFS was observed in the F100 and F80 groups but not in the F60 group. Significantly higher stamina and endurance measurements were observed in the F80 and F60 groups but not in the F100 group. These results showed that a 4-week hangboard training enabled increasing MFS, stamina and endurance, and that different improvements occurred according to the level of training intensity. Interestingly, the different intensities allow improvements in the targeted capacity (e.g., stamina for the F80 group) but also in the adjacent physiological capabilities (e.g., MFS for the F80 group).

Tests and Procedures for Measuring Endurance, Strength, and Power in Climbing—A Mini-Review

The interest in climbing is rapidly growing among professional and recreational athletes and will for the first time be included in the 2021 Tokyo Olympics. The sport has also gained increased scientific attention in the past decades. Still, recommendations for testing procedures to predict climbing performance and measure training effects are limited. Therefore, the aim of this mini-review is to provide an overview of the climbing-specific tests, procedures and outcomes used to examine climbing performance. The available literature presents a variety of tests and procedures. While the reliability of some tests has been examined, measures of validity are scarce, especially for climbing-specific endurance tests. Moreover, considering the possible combinations of climbing performance levels, disciplines, and tests, substantial gaps in the literature exist. Vague descriptions of the participants in many studies (e.g., not specifying preferred discipline, performance level, experience, and regular climbing and training volume) further limit the current knowledge and challenge comparisons across studies. Regarding contraction types, dynamic strength- and power-tests are underrepresented in the literature compared to isometric tests. Studies exploring and reporting the validity and reliability of climbing-specific tests are warranted, and researchers should strive to provide a detailed description of the study populations in future research.

Retrospective Analysis of Functional Pain among Professional Climbers

Climbing became one of the official Olympic sports in 2020. The nociplastic pain mechanism is indicated as important in professional sports. Functional pain, which has not been examined in climbers until now, can be an example of nociplastic pain. This study aimed to determine functional pain locations in climbers according to gender and dominant climbing style. Climbers (n = 183) and healthy subjects (n = 160) completed an online survey focused on functional pain occurrence in the head, spine, and upper limbs. The logistic regression showed that climbing predisposes one to functional pain at: Gleno-humeral joint (odds ratio (OR): 3.06; area under the curve (AUC): 0.635), elbow (OR: 2.86; AUC: 0.625), fingers (OR: 7.74; AUC: 0.733), all (p < 0.05). Among the climbers, the female gender predisposed one to pain at: GHJ (OR: 3.34; AUC: 0.638), thoracic spine (OR: 1.95; AUC: 0.580), and lumbosacral spine (OR: 1.96; AUC: 0.578), all (p < 0.05). Climbing predisposes one to functional pain development in the upper limb. While the male climbers mainly suffered from finger functional pain, the female climbers reported functional pain in the GHJ and the thoracic and lumbosacral spine. Further studies on functional pain occurrence are recommended.

Relative Contributions of Handgrip and Individual Finger Strength on Climbing Performance in a Bouldering Competition

PURPOSE

To determine the relative contributions of handgrip and individual finger strength for the prediction of climbing performance in a bouldering competition. A secondary aim was to examine the influence of body size, bouldering experience, and training habits.

METHODS

Sixty-seven boulderers (mean [SD], age = 21.1 [4.0] y; body mass = 69.5 [9.8] kg) volunteered for this study. Data collection occurred immediately before an indoor bouldering competition and involved the assessment of handgrip and individual finger maximal force production using an electronic handheld dynamometer. The bouldering competition consisted of 70 routes graded V0 to V8, with higher point values awarded for completing more difficult routes. Stepwise multiple regression analysis was used to examine the relative contributions of handgrip and individual finger strengths, body mass, height, bouldering experience, and bouldering frequency to the prediction of performance scores in the competition.

RESULTS

Ring finger pinch strength, bouldering experience, and bouldering frequency significantly (P < .05) contributed to the model (R2 = .373), whereas body mass; height; full handgrip strength, as well as index, middle, and little finger pinch strengths did not. The β weights showed that ring finger pinch strength (β = .430) was the most significant contributor, followed by bouldering experience (β = .331) and bouldering frequency (β = .244).

CONCLUSIONS

The current findings indicated that trainable factors contributed to the prediction of bouldering performance. These results suggest greater bouldering frequency and experience likely contribute to greater isolated individual finger strength, thereby optimizing preparation for the diverse handholds in competitive rock climbing.

The Estimation of Critical Angle in Climbing as a Measure of Maximal Metabolic Steady State

Purpose: Sport climbing is a technical, self-paced sport, and the workload is highly variable and mainly localized to the forearm flexors. It has not proved effective to control intensity using measures typical of other sports, such as gas exchange thresholds, heart rate, or blood lactate. Therefore, the purposes of the study were to (1) determine the possibility of applying the mathematical model of critical power to the estimation of a critical angle (CA) as a measure of maximal metabolic steady state in climbing and (2) to compare this intensity with the muscle oxygenation breakpoint (MOB) determined during an exhaustive climbing task.

Materials and Methods: Twenty-seven sport climbers undertook three to five exhaustive ascents on a motorized treadwall at differing angles to estimate CA, and one exhaustive climbing test with a progressive increase in angle to determine MOB, assessed using near-infrared spectroscopy (NIRS).

Results: Model fit for estimated CA was very high (R² = 0.99; SEE = 1.1°). The mean peak angle during incremental test was −17 ± 5°, and CA from exhaustive trials was found at −2.5 ± 3.8°. Nine climbers performing the ascent 2° under CA were able to sustain the task for 20 min with perceived exertion at 12.1 ± 1.9 (RPE). However, climbing 2° above CA led to task failure after 15.9 ± 3.0 min with RPE = 16.4 ± 1.9. When MOB was plotted against estimated CA, good agreement was stated (ICC = 0.80, SEM = 1.5°).

Conclusion: Climbers, coaches, and researchers may use a predefined route with three to five different wall angles to estimate CA as an analog of critical power to determine a maximal metabolic steady state in climbing. Moreover, a climbing test with progressive increases in wall angle using MOB also appears to provide a valid estimate of CA.

Hangboard training in advanced climbers: A randomized controlled trial

Improving climbing performance strongly depends upon effective training methods. Hangboard training is one of the most popular approaches to increase finger and forearm strength. Training protocols are based on maximizing weight or minimizing edges. We aimed to evaluate which of these protocols was superior. We prospectively analyzed 30 intermediate to advanced climbing athletes [Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme (UIAA) VI–VIII] and randomized them into three groups: control group C (Control, normal climbing training), hangboard group HE (Hang endurance, grips to hold for a determined time decreased every week), and hangboard group HW (Hang weight, + 1.25 kg weight were added each week to hold for a determined time). As endpoints, we measured the grip strength before and after an 8-week training protocol in seven different pinches. Over the 8-week training period, HW hangboard training significantly improved the climbers’ grip strength compared to C [p = 0.032, effect size (ES) 0.36]. Maximizing weight improved the strength in I/II + III, I/II + III + IV and fist significantly. HW was superior compared to C in terms of grip strength improvement in three out of seven pinches and overall grip strength. The overall changes in the HE group did not differ significantly from the C group. An 8-week training protocol with increasing weights (HW) significantly improved overall grip strength more than a regular climbing training without the use of a hangboard.

Effects of Two vs. Four Weekly Campus Board Training Sessions on Bouldering Performance and Climbing-Specific Tests in Advanced and Elite Climbers

This study examined the effects of two or four weekly campus board training sessions among highly accomplished lead climbers. Sixteen advanced-to-elite climbers were randomly allocated to two (TG2), or four weekly campus board training sessions (TG4), or a control group (CG). All groups continued their normal climbing routines. Pre- and post-intervention measures included bouldering performance, maximal isometric pull-up strength using a shallow rung and a large hold (jug), and maximal reach and moves to failure. Rate of force development (RFD; absolute and 100ms) was calculated in the rung condition. TG4 improved maximal force in the jug condition (effect size (ES) = 0.40, p = 0.043), and absolute RFD more than CG (ES = 2.92, p = 0.025), whereas TG2 improved bouldering performance (ES = 2.59, p = 0.016) and maximal moves to failure on the campus board more than CG (ES = 1.65, p = 0.008). No differences between the training groups were found (p = 0.107-1.000). When merging the training groups, the training improved strength in the rung condition (ES = 0.87, p = 0.002), bouldering performance (ES = 2.37, p = 0.006), maximal reach (ES = 1.66, p = 0.006) and moves to failure (ES = 1.43, p = 0.040) more than CG. In conclusion, a five-week campus board training-block is sufficient for improving climbing-specific attributes among advanced-to-elite climbers. Sessions should be divided over four days to improve RFD or divided over two days to improve bouldering performance, compared to regular climbing training.

Effects of decision-making on indoor bouldering performances: A multi-experimental study approach

The purpose of this study was to investigate whether novice, intermediate, and advanced bouldering athletes would differ in their decision-making abilities and to what extent distinct problem-solving tactics would affect the athletes’ bouldering performances. Seventy-seven male bouldering athletes participated in a multi-experimental study with the conceptual replication of three bouldering tasks. Participants were allocated according to their ability levels to the novice group (NOV with n = 18), the intermediate group (INT with n = 18), or the advanced group (ADV with n = 41). The data collected for movement analysis via video consisted of the pre-ascent decision-making times, the number of movement deviations from the best solution, the number of movement mistakes, the average gripping times, the bouldering times to the top, the number of successful ascents, and the number of attempts to complete the tasks. Results among all three experiments revealed shorter decision-making times, fewer movement mistakes, and shorter average gripping and bouldering times to the top in the ADV group than in the NOV group and the INT group. Furthermore, participants from the ADV group demonstrated fewer movement deviations than participants from the NOV group (in all three experiments) and the INT group (Experiment 1 and Experiment 2). Moreover, participants from the ADV group and the INT group were characterized, in all three experiments, by a higher number of successful ascents and a lower number of attempts to complete the tasks than participants from the NOV group. In total, these findings emphasize that accomplished decision-making abilities consist of a key determinant in successful indoor bouldering performances.

Indoor Bouldering-A Prospective Injury Evaluation

INTRODUCTION

Bouldering has become a sport of growing interest, but little prospective evidence exists about injury proportions and patterns. The purpose of this study was to prospectively evaluate the cause of injuries sustained during indoor bouldering, proportion of affected body location, and injury severity.

METHODS

Proportions and patterns of injury among German-speaking indoor boulderers were evaluated prospectively in an explorative cohort study. Participants completed a baseline questionnaire assessing anthropometric data and sport-specific potential preventive and risk factors, followed by monthly injury questionnaires including injury location and injury severity over a period of 12 mo.

RESULTS

Out of 507 boulderers, 222 (44%) sustained 305 injuries. Of those, 78% (n=238) were classified as Union Internationale de Associations d'Alpinisme (UIAA) 1, 19% (n=57) as UIAA 2, and 3% (n=10) as UIAA 3. Injuries of the upper extremities accounted for 63% (n=191) of all injuries. Injuries of the lower extremities accounted for 23% (n=71) but were more often classified as UIAA≥2 (P=0.0071; odds ratio [OR] 2.23; 95% CI 1.23-4.04) and were more often caused by falling (P=0.0005; OR 2.92; 95% CI 1.57-5.42) and jumping off the wall (P<0.0001; OR 4.39; 95% CI 2.25-8.56) than injuries of other body locations. There was no statistically significant protective effect of the evaluated potential preventive measures. Participants who used heavily downturned climbing shoes had a higher risk of sustaining a UIAA ≥2 injury (P=0.0034; OR 2.58; 95% CI 1.34-4.95).

CONCLUSIONS

Injuries in indoor bouldering are common. Lower extremity injuries are associated with higher injury severity. Preventive measures need to be established to reduce bouldering injuries, especially during falls and landings.

Comparison of Grip Strength in Recreational Climbers and Non-Climbing Athletes-A Cross-Sectional Study

In recent years, climbing sports is on the rise making its Olympic debut in 2021. Physiological traits of professional rock climbers have been intensively studied, while recreational indoor climbers are less investigated, especially regarding grip strength and upper extremity proportions. In this cross-sectional study, we aimed to understand what discerns the recreational climber from disparate recreational athletes. Therefore, we analyzed 50 recreational climbing (30.3 ± 12.7 years, 1.76 ± 0.09 m and 67.0 ± 14.0 kg) and 50 non-climbing athletes (26.4 ± 9.1 years, 1.78 ± 0.09 m and 73.2 ± 12.6 kg) to detect differences in their finger grip strength of seven different pinches. In addition, the upper extremity proportions were measured. Even in recreational climbers, almost all analyzed grips were stronger compared to other athletes (p < 0.05 in all but non-dominant fist, small to moderate effect sizes). Only the grip strength of the whole non-dominant hand was not significantly different (p = 0.17). Interestingly, differences between the dominant and non-dominant hand appeared to be larger in the non-climbing (all p < 0.05, all but one with small effect size) compared to the climbing cohort (pinch I/IV and pinch I/II+III+IV not different and mostly trivial). Circumference measurements showed that 10 cm below the lateral epicondyle, climbers exhibited significantly greater perimeter compared to non-climbing athletes (p < 0.05, small effect size). Our results show that recreational climbers have higher measured grip strength, but less profound differences between the dominant and non-dominant hand.

Grip Strength-Endurance in Ambitious and Recreational Climbers: Does the Strength Decrement Index Serve as a Feasible Measure?

The present study investigated the time course of repetitive maximal isometric grip strength, depending on the arm position, laterality (dominant vs. non-dominant side), and climbing level. The intervention aimed to provide a feasible indicator of maximal strength-endurance in climbing. Seventeen recreational (climbing level (CL): 6.8 (SD 0.5) on the Union Internationale des Associations d’Alpinisme (UIAA) metric scale) and eleven ambitious (CL: 8.7 (SD 0.6) UIAA metric scale) climbers (age: 27 (8) years; BMI: 21.6 (1.9) kg/m²; ape index (arm span divided by body height): 1.05 (0.18); training volume: 2.2 (1.0) h/week). Participants completed maximal isometric handgrip strength (F_max) tests in four positions (left and right hand beside the trunk as well as left and right hand above the shoulder) plus twelve repetitive work-relief cycles, lasting 4 and 1 s where isometric strength, heart rate, and perceived exertion were recorded. F_max differed between groups in nearly all positions. A large side × position × time × group interaction was observed for repetitive isometric grip strength (p = 0.009, η_p² = 0.71). However, subsequent post-hoc tests did not reveal a significant difference between groups during each testing position. Additional correlation analysis between asymmetry and CL showed an inverse relationship for ambitious climbers (r = −0.71). In conclusion, the degree of grip strength decline did not relevantly differentiate between ambitious and recreational climbers. Thus, the time course of handgrip strength seems to mainly rely on maximal grip strength during the first contraction.

Heart Rate Behavior in Speed Climbing

Speed climbing is an Olympic discipline within the combined sport climbing event in 2020 for the first time. Speed climbing is a high-speed and anaerobic exercise against gravity over a few seconds with extreme psychological pressure. Although there is some literature on heart rate (HR) when lead climbing, there is no literature on the behavior of the HR when speed climbing. The HR of seven near-elite participants was measured with a Polar HR monitor while climbing a 10- and 15-m wall, respectively, three times each, with pauses of 5 min between the first and last three climbs and a 20-min pause between the third and fourth climb. The average climbing times on the 10- and 15-m walls were 9.16 ± 3.06 s and 14.95 ± 3.14 s, respectively (data pooled between climbing heights). The peak HR on the 10- and 15-m walls were 164.57 ± 7.45 bpm and 176.43 ± 8.09 bpm. The rates of change in HR were as follows: average HR acceleration before peak HR, 2.53 ± 0.80 bpm/s; peak HR acceleration before peak HR, 4.16 ± 1.08 bpm/s; and average HR deceleration after peak HR, −0.98 ± 0.30 bpm/s. The average HR during the pauses ranged from 105.80 to 117.89 bpm. From the results, in comparison to the literature, we conclude that athletes, trained for sustaining high physical exertion and psychological pressure, have a far smaller HR acceleration than untrained people during light and unstressful exercises. Furthermore, the current rule that athletes shall have a minimum resting time of 5 min between climbing attempts during a speed climbing competition seems justified as sufficient time for HR recovery.

Characterizing cortical hemodynamic changes during climbing and its relation to climbing expertise

Bouldering is a special form of climbing without rope that requires coordinated whole-body movements. While physical performance parameters such as condition have been well studied, the knowledge on neural activity during climbing still remains sparse. Functional near-infrared spectroscopy (fNIRS) allows to measure brain activation while performing sportive actions due to its relative robustness against motion artefacts. In the current study, hemodynamic response alterations of 13 advanced climbers were investigated during boulder performance using fNIRS measurements. Simple and moderate climbing routes were compared regarding their level of cortical activation mainly in the sensorimotor area. Our results show that repetitively climbing a set of boulders activates almost all areas of the sensorimotor system including the bilateral premotor and supplementary motor cortex, bilateral primary motor cortex as well as the bilateral gyrus supramarginalis and somatosensory cortex. This result was found in both simple and moderate climbing routes with no effect of task complexity on the level of cortical activity. Correlation analysis (uncorrected for multiple comparisons) revealed a negative association between the level of expertise and the hemodynamic response in the supplementary-motor region, suggesting that gaining expertise in climbing is associated with a decrease in secondary motor areas, which is an indicator of motor automaticity. In summary, the present study provides first proof of concept that fNIRS is capable of assessing hemodynamic response alterations within the human motor system during the execution of complex whole-body climbing movements.